Great demonstration... And of course I was watching real closely... Because in my past I did a lot of soldering... One small technique you did not mention when the chip is moving around and you have one edge tacked... And you want to shift it just a little bit I saw you push the edge of one of the corners using the pin which had a little bit of tension on it you used that tension to hold the position you wanted until the other pin was solder...🙂 I hope I described that correctly. I think you did great for being on camera.... When you're demonstrating something it can sometimes be totally up in the air about what's going to happen 🙂 P.S. I also enjoy when you tell us about the tools that you use and the model numbers and where you got them. I know over time through the channel you are showing us some of the items you review and items that you actually put into use which I think is great because many of us may see that tool in use and say that looks like it works sufficiently for my needs and will be potentially planning on a purchase.
the way I adjusted the position of the chip slightly using 'tension' like you say, probably i just do that so naturally that I didn't think to mention it. I learned most of this stuff by trial and error, I watched a few videos first and they all look like soldering wizards! I don't claim to be one, to me it is just a matter of playing around with tools and solder and flux until you understand how the materials are going to behave together and after that it's pretty easy.
I use a plain old conical tip at work (all kinds at home) and drag solder all the surface mount chips. I think its mostly easier, and don't get TOO many solder bridges anymore
You will not have to worry about fake chips if you buy your microcontrollers directly from Microchip, Digikey, Mouser, etc. I got burned ONCE many years ago - I vowed never again. I only buy from the reputable suppliers, even if the cost is higher.
Other option is using stainless steel stencil to apply soldering paste and then you place all parts or just chip with pick and place machine or manually and then bake it in stove.
I would think a pair of helping hands, weighted vice or board holder would help so that one is not also fighting the board moving at the same time you are moving the chip around.
Yeah you could hold it with someting like that. With boards like this they stay pretty well put on my antistatic mat, possibly because it has a slightly springy and contoured surface
If you're going to do it pin by pin, I find that a 0.8mm chisel tip makes life a lot easier. Just slide the tinned tip up each well-fluxed pad and kiss the pin, working down the row. Easy peasy.
There's so called microwave tips for chips soldering, it looks like hoof type but is hollow. Works really well for this purpose because in hollow tip you can keep lots of solder and solder many pints in. Not so well if you have massive grounds, then you have to warm up the board to like 50 Celsius or use bigger soldering tip for the ground. No point buying it if you don't plan to solder lqfp on big scale.
Stencil, solder paste, chip, hot air….10-15 seconds/ chip= done. Especially for beginners, it’s much easier than with an iron. Stencil keeps the amount of paste correct. When hit with hot air, the solder pulls the chip into place. No solder bridges or damaged pads of tracks. Also, a beginner with an iron is going to cook the chip. If you read the atmel data sheet, you find that the amount of time the chip can be in the temperature range to melt solder is minimal. If you functionality is bizarre after mounting, there’s a way to determine if it was cooked described in the nearly 300 pg datasheet. For programming, isn’t this breakout board going to make it difficult to mount the external capacitors and crystal oscillators required for proper operation? Do the traces add unwanted inductance that changes values needed for the capacitors??
OK I could try this on video, together with a few other ideas here but I just had a quick look on AliExpress and I can't seem to find a QFP or QFN stencil set. Where did you get yours?
They don’t usually make fake chips, they will re mark either lower grade parts of the same family, or use a similar packaged part and brand it. The former will likely work, the latter, not so much.
Heya very nnice tutorial how to solder QFP chips. the hot air really looks good i like that one.
Good video. I would be interested to see if a tip cleaner/tinner help the small iron hold on to the solder any better...
Can you demonstrate that with solder paste and your views on it as opposed to solder wire.
OK I can try that
Great demonstration... And of course I was watching real closely... Because in my past I did a lot of soldering... One small technique you did not mention when the chip is moving around and you have one edge tacked... And you want to shift it just a little bit I saw you push the edge of one of the corners using the pin which had a little bit of tension on it you used that tension to hold the position you wanted until the other pin was solder...🙂 I hope I described that correctly. I think you did great for being on camera.... When you're demonstrating something it can sometimes be totally up in the air about what's going to happen 🙂 P.S. I also enjoy when you tell us about the tools that you use and the model numbers and where you got them. I know over time through the channel you are showing us some of the items you review and items that you actually put into use which I think is great because many of us may see that tool in use and say that looks like it works sufficiently for my needs and will be potentially planning on a purchase.
the way I adjusted the position of the chip slightly using 'tension' like you say, probably i just do that so naturally that I didn't think to mention it. I learned most of this stuff by trial and error, I watched a few videos first and they all look like soldering wizards! I don't claim to be one, to me it is just a matter of playing around with tools and solder and flux until you understand how the materials are going to behave together and after that it's pretty easy.
Very instructive! Thank you.
[19:10] I recall the back-in-the-day of when you so much as showed a board the soldering iron, the pads and tracks would curl up and die :-)
LOL especially BAD when you've spent a lot of time making your own boards and then that happens
nice demo
Liked it so much.
I use a plain old conical tip at work (all kinds at home) and drag solder all the surface mount chips. I think its mostly easier, and don't get TOO many solder bridges anymore
T12 BC-2.
Same style just a bit smaller.
Hello,
Fnrsi 01 + BC2.😄
Thanks for the exemple.
You will not have to worry about fake chips if you buy your microcontrollers directly from Microchip, Digikey, Mouser, etc. I got burned ONCE many years ago - I vowed never again. I only buy from the reputable suppliers, even if the cost is higher.
Other option is using stainless steel stencil to apply soldering paste and then you place all parts or just chip with pick and place machine or manually and then bake it in stove.
I would think a pair of helping hands, weighted vice or board holder would help so that one is not also fighting the board moving at the same time you are moving the chip around.
Yeah you could hold it with someting like that. With boards like this they stay pretty well put on my antistatic mat, possibly because it has a slightly springy and contoured surface
If you're going to do it pin by pin, I find that a 0.8mm chisel tip makes life a lot easier. Just slide the tinned tip up each well-fluxed pad and kiss the pin, working down the row. Easy peasy.
OK I can try that
Maybe try getting yourself a Miniware MHP50 hot plate, which looks ideal for small projects like this.
I have one here
👍👍👌👌
There's so called microwave tips for chips soldering, it looks like hoof type but is hollow. Works really well for this purpose because in hollow tip you can keep lots of solder and solder many pints in. Not so well if you have massive grounds, then you have to warm up the board to like 50 Celsius or use bigger soldering tip for the ground. No point buying it if you don't plan to solder lqfp on big scale.
You Can get flux with solder in it. It’s much easier. And I use a hot plate instead of the iron
Stencil, solder paste, chip, hot air….10-15 seconds/ chip= done. Especially for beginners, it’s much easier than with an iron. Stencil keeps the amount of paste correct. When hit with hot air, the solder pulls the chip into place. No solder bridges or damaged pads of tracks. Also, a beginner with an iron is going to cook the chip. If you read the atmel data sheet, you find that the amount of time the chip can be in the temperature range to melt solder is minimal. If you functionality is bizarre after mounting, there’s a way to determine if it was cooked described in the nearly 300 pg datasheet.
For programming, isn’t this breakout board going to make it difficult to mount the external capacitors and crystal oscillators required for proper operation? Do the traces add unwanted inductance that changes values needed for the capacitors??
OK I could try this on video, together with a few other ideas here but I just had a quick look on AliExpress and I can't seem to find a QFP or QFN stencil set. Where did you get yours?
Smith Deborah Clark Karen Young Paul
I don’t understand why someone (company) sets out to make ‘fake’ chips.
Money and corruption rule the world.🧟♀️👤
They don’t usually make fake chips, they will re mark either lower grade parts of the same family, or use a similar packaged part and brand it. The former will likely work, the latter, not so much.