Monster Kayak Motor Test: Torqeedo Killer in the Water! Can we set a world Record?
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2020
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You need to make a Mokai type body for those motors.check out some vids about the mokai.there really cool..
+Ian Cameron Yeah, that's a perfect hull design!
The Good of the Land, done good sir. Thank you for all the hard work your putting in. Enjoy the content and the “can-do” mentality. Keep them vids coming and looking forward to the next.
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@@TheGoodoftheLand hello, you are very good compliments, I would like to ask you for advice, which is the best engine to build a jet ski for underwater fishing use? ... thanks bye
Keep the frames they allow air to circulate and when a cell fails and puffs up you can pull it out more easily.
Also you have to match the voltages of all the batteries in a particular pack. The voltages are all over the place so if you put batteries with 3.96v with batteries with 3.25 v in the same pack it’s almost impossible to balance charge em so I group batteries with similar voltages together and they charge more readily.
How am I JUST finding this channel? Wtf google? You're supposed to know me better than I know me -- I would have appreciated a recommendation! Good thing I searched "solar Kayak". Solid content
Glad to see the project moving along and evolving!
I need more of this series so bad. These kayak videos are some of the best on youtube. Truly innovative. Please keep this project going.
Much more to come!
@@TheGoodoftheLand Still waiting on that "much more" 😉
@@TheGoodoftheLand what happened to the kayak videos don't see anymore videos about the kayak?
Surprisingly, a one hp MinnKota trolling motor will move my 24 foot pontoon boat around my dock. A “10 hp” Hangkai does pretty well. Have you decided on a motor? The large size of my boat allows me to have 4 or more agm deep cycle batteries. Double that power would be perfect! A 20 hp electric outboard from Elko costs $5000! I’m not going there.
Yes I like more too.
Am traveling european waterways in a yacht/houseboat made to a smaller house whit all inside as a house ❤❤❤
Like a Cano wakeboard paddelboard EL
And more el for the ofgrid People ❤❤❤
I love your content. I went down this road by putting a 30lb trolling motor on my ascend fs128t and had a 75AH battery. it was 62lbs of motor and battery. I went through 2 50A PWM that both fried. I bought a 1981 evinrude 2HP 2 stroke and it weighs 24lbs. it mounts up amazing on the back. I rebuilt that motor and had so much fun doing it. its so much better now I can go over 12km in trolling distance and go 13km/h (Canada). Thanks for your content though! I wish I had some money to give you but Ive spent like $2000+ on mine. Your going all out with electric and its so cool man.
A year into my own electric kayak project, and I find yours - nice work sir! Wish I'd found this last year!
Truly grateful to you’re stick-to-it’ve-ness willing to troubled shoot and solve issues along the way Thank You. In truth you’re I am inspired to continue on my quest. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
Glad to see you back on the kayak Justin @TheGoodOfTheLand
I'm In, Just found your site today, you explain things so well. I just bought an electric motor for my kayak but was in a car accident 2 weeks ago. so for now Ill watch videos till I get back out. I through in a few bucks so good luck!
Glad to see the connection points are nice and tight on the new unit @TheGoodOfTheLand
Very good engineering work, sharp looking prototype parts. You're doing great.
Love this project, well done so far
freakin amazing, build can't wait for the finalized product 😍👏
Great video and love following your thought processes on the problem solving.
I am ready for a Jetski conversion, dude! You are doing great!
I also like the sealed underwater thruster units the prop guys sell, or even the jet setups available. 90/100mm jet drive could be fun as well.
Another great video can't wait for the motor to be sold to the public....i also have a linear actuator on my kayak motor but i selected a little slower speed also with an automatic shut off when its extended and contracted so it will not rip off any of my mounts.......and a transmission for my steering, my motor rotates 360 degrees and switched the drive motor in transmission so it doesnt turn too fast to throw me off....wish i could post a small video or pic ....keep up the great work.
Wow at how cool on Temps the system is nice work @TheGoodOfTheLand
Awesome video. Loving this series Justin. Keep it up buddy!!
+nashguy207 Thanks brother! Will do!
Just watched this Dec 19th what a fun project. I was running out of time to watch and suddenly I solved your speed problem. I set the playback speed to 1.5x and your 9mph jumped to 13.5 instantly. Lol jk it does look like pure joy though. And the best part about getting to a video 3 months late is the update is already out.
I am sold - love your work amazing and I BELIEVE there is a market for a 15 + Kayak motor and one that will last for long 💯 trips going and coming I love it
This is awesome! Would love to have this setup one day !
So awesome cant wait to see finished product and price
Love to content great job wish we had more videos like this on RUclips Amazing Job thank you Sir
Scotty! More power!
Ceptin! I’m givin it all sheee’s got!
Ok.boss man ,everything is working out great I have learned a lot ..the only thing is it is running deep in the water and i can't use a power pole ,,i know that may not be the mission here at this time ,,love you man.. please do not take this wrong ,covid has made things tough here in Ohio but i am trying to get my Cuda out of lay-a-way and start testing ,,as i build i will update you ,,sound cool
Good job; making progress.
Nice to see the tilt and trim brother @TheGoodOfTheLand
You have my attention with the Hobie cassette :)
Like your style !! Keep it up.
i think this guy set a record for fastest kayak and fastest electric kayak in the last video that led me to this one. I dont think ive ever seen a kayak on step until then.
This is exciting for me so I can just imagine what it is for you. I what definitely like to see more speed and power!
Awesome built
my favorite channel now
You may want to get your hands on some System 48 plus. Its no longer made, however, it is still available on eBay for all the moving parts to be coated. it creates a lubricative film on all the hotspots. This will lower friction big time. This stuff is amazing in reducing metal to metal contact better than any standard lube. I believe this will help to protect the equipment all-inclusive of the moving parts. Check into it.
Thank you for making this!
If you can build this for saltwater for the 400-700$ for motor mount controller assy.(battery not included). Kayak trollers in California will eat it up. We waste money just to get our Salmon fix hahahaha! if you can sell them in 500 all aluminum parts(wings mounts etc) id definitely buy!
And yeh we don't need power too much (8-10 mph max) with super longevity to 80 miles back and forth. that would be a perfect system.
Any more power than that is a throw you out of the kayak problem!!
Once perfected and almost ready I will link this up in the kayak forum.
Awesome cant wait to see and learn more.👍🇺🇸
Wow! Well done 👍🏽
love your videos. learning a ton! Keep going bigger faster stronger!!! ignore all the weenies in the comment section whining about too much power or your battery kit isn't safe or whatever...it's a work in progress and i love it. For all you whiny skirts that don't want "more power" just go get a trolling motor.. this isn't for you.
First of all you work is amazing, and your kayak performance is insane, i love it.
I am working on keeping the motor out of the water by using a 90 degree drill attachment in the water
And the motor on top of the shaft. Any thoughts?
Good stuff,,, be well out there!
Awesome content and info! I would love one of these Setup on my hobie outback. I’m waiting for the final result to build me one. I would even be inclined to purchase a setup from you.
Brother I absolutely love this 👏🏼👏🏼😂🙌🏼😎💙💯
Keep it long fourm, your doing great. When the funds come avaliable I'm down to help with r&r
I'm glad i found this video. It just reaffirmed my thoughts on just buying another boat..
Carry on with your engineering spirit
+Doan Nguyen Yes sir!
This dude's the best.
Why are you playing with RC controllers (ESC) when there are E-bike controllers that can handle 96V @ 100A continuously almost at the same price range without water cooling?
great idea. What ones would you suggest to those taking up the same build?
@@br0k3nilluzion www.amazon.com/Super-SABVOTON-Programable-electric-controller/dp/B01N0KMGT7
@@br0k3nilluzion kellycontroller.com/shop/kbl/
Because those are more expensive and larger and you don’t need a sensored esc for a boat
Disclaimer: I haven’t seen all your videos.
I’ll give you a left-handed compliment.
You’re building an impressive, but insanely complicated system.
Next, I would like to remind you that a kayak with an electric motor is not a kayak.
It’s a small motorboat with a kayak hull.
You mention you don’t like having to slow down to turn.
That’s an inherent limitation of your chosen hull form.
If you want more stability, you’ll have to change the hull.
A boxy, flat bottom skiff might plane just as well with the same power and offer infinitely more stability.
Admittedly, it wouldn’t paddle very well.
You just have to decide what you want, and accept what you end up with.
You might draw inspiration from the “Instant Boat” designs of the late Phillip Bolger.
Or go a different route with a wave-piercing trimaran design.
But again, you’re not going to be able to paddle a trimaran very well.
Anyway, good luck, and have fun.
And let’s be careful out there.
Nice setup bro!
I've used a puffed up battery for years on my mini revo, It still going, its not real tight, still has some squish to it, still used daily in the RC I gave to my brother.
I know it may sound simple compared to the system you've put together, but might I suggest making a sun shade above you on the kayak supported by PVC pipe, and make the sun shade itself out of a 100 watt solar panel. This way as long as you have sun you have electricity charging your batteries. (Long range Kayak.) I find the idea of solar electric boats another things quite fascinating. I enjoy watching your videos, thanks for sharing man.
Adding a awning is what I did to 14’ sit on top. I added attachable pontoons.
The pontoons have pipe stems , they attach to 2 booms that are sleeved through the beefed up super structure. Everything comes apart and is loaded on a pipe trailer with beefy bicycle wheels. Pull anywhere with Honda 250 atv.
The coolest feature is the plexiglass view window with led lites.
I suggest anyone building , put in the view window. It is really cool.
Or just flexibel panels on the kayak itself, but he is complaining about the burning sun a lot, so maybe a roof is better for him XD
It looks like it could've been close enough to draw up sand from the bottom where you pulled up to Amy at the dock. Great project, I'm in it to the end. Thank You!
Great job we love your channel. Have you fully tested everything yet and if so are you going to start selling a complete kit ? Keep up the projects 👍
I had a portable roll up solar panel, meant for keeping a car battery charged up ,attached directly to a car battery. Running a 35 lb. thrust trolling motor on my 12’ flat bottom job boat. It worked fantastic, and lasted for years of use traveling S. Florida canals and Chuckolooski.
I just hooked up my 14’ flat bottom jon boat with two panels and two car batteries. Taking turns on one 65lb. Thrust trolling motor.
No charge controller or any extra gadgets. Planning a spot for a smaller 550 car battery just for the bilge pump that will be linked to one or both panels. Lights can be switched to either trolling motor battery(lead cell) now.
With a set of oars to pick up speed when I feel like it, I’ve gone out for a week already in the 14’ with the old 35 lb thrust motor. Can’t wait to take the twin battery set up with the 65 lb thrust. Also set uo a hammock and no see um net this time. Sleeping bag on homemade deck was ok. But removing the wood deck took needed weight off for extra food and water. Goes back on when used for shorter trips.. plus. Not having the 30 horse engine with gas tank takes a lot of weight away too. And it’s a lot more peaceful without it.
That's awesome! You should grab some batteries from Batteryhookup.com and build a pack. With your setup and a charge controller you could run indefinitely with a five lbs battery. Check out my jump pack video. The batteries I used are awesome and only cost $4 each!
Next time you're out there and you see the first boat, grab your paddle after you go wide open throttle and act like your paddling when you pass them, lol.
Soooo excited for that Hobie set up, I’d be more than happy to test it for you in my PA 14 😜
It's not going to break any speed records but I'm sure it will be as fast as anything on the market at less than half the price. Should smoke a trolling motor!
Same-I can’t wait for this to be finished so I Can purchase and put on my pa 14!!!
Bet an Outback would scoot!
Nice Video l Enjoy watching your video over a cup of coffee or Mimosa depending on want time the day it is you are very knowledgeable
Check the temperatur build up of those small flipsky motors with the orange prop. Issue can be heat dissipation because they are sealed outrunners. In comparison to the inrunners you are using the windings of the outrunner have no contact other than the shaft for cooling.
When I served aboard the USS Enterprise (CVN-65), one of the Operational Readiness Safeguards Exam Board questions was how much would you have to increase power to double the maximum speed of the ship. I got it wrong but I never forgot the question or the answer. Using the Pump Laws, the correct answer is that you would have to increase power by eight times to double speed.
The battery pack back there weighs nothing....great, you've discovered anti gravity batteries.
Seriously, weight distribution in small boats is immensely important. I have a well balanced 17 ft sailboat, I carry a 6 pound mushroom anchor most of the time and I can change the trim on the boat just by relocating the anchor and the boat will head up wind more or fall off just from that little weight change.
Don't underestimate what moving the battery can do for you. Whatever it weighs is essentially doubled crossing the cg.
Love the build, very exciting and interesting.
Edited to add, the weight distribution seems to be proportional to the overall load. It makes less difference when I have gear or passengers on board.
Let me guess, you want to be the first person to pull a skier behind a kayak? lol
Looking at this storm, I hope the rest of the family got out of Bay St Louis in time. Saying a prayer.
That crc Molly lube is impressive justin @TheGoodOfTheLand
They smoke like crazy but never explode or catch fire they are awesome batteries i have 5 14 volt banks i use for car audio
I have electric tilt and trim on my brushless powered kayak, but it won't be as fast as yours. 🤣 (Top speed of about 7mph)
But I didn't have to do so much R&D either. So keen to see what the final result will be on yours.
with that much power you could do a hydrofoil and the speed would take off.
I was just thinking how awesome a hydrofoil option would be to reduce drag, increase speed and improve the efficiency of the batteries.
@@RelicsandRust honestly planning to use the same motor and prop in a hydrofoil board. hopefully he sees this comment CAUSE HE SHOULD TRY KELLY CONTROLLERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thats my plan for my foilboard they are expensive ( but compared to buying untested /multiple of other ones that could fail seems worth it) plus they will be around in a year to service a warranty if need be.
Get a sabaton controller or bac2000 or 4000
Nothing against the plastic fishing kayaks as they are awesome to fish from and very stable, however imagine this set up on an oc1 (outrigger 1 man canoe) which a good competitive paddler can get speeds up to 16km/h for a sprint, a fraction of the resistance of a fishing kayak, the speed would be quick quick and batteries would last long.
Awesome work on your creation 👍🏼
at 37:58 you mentioned using the battery as weight. if you're having trouble breaking the weak try moving the prop back a couple inches. maybe a channel tubing with a slot milled out on one side making easy adjustments. if you're building for more then one person you have to remember everyone weighs different. Second, be sure the prop can trim downward more the level. The downward thrust will push the boat on to step.then trimming up the motor after you broke the wake will allow the vessel to ride on step using less power.
In regards to protecting the motor from sand/debrie and possibly cranking up speed. How about put your motor above the water (just like a conventional combustion motor), end it out with a larger cog, run a standard motorcycle style rubber belt down to the motor, that is started out with a smaller cog (to get more speed out with lesser energy used on the long run, not the start). You can just enclose the rubber belt inside a housing to remove the exposure to debrie and water spashage. I think by adding two bearings inside the housing to narrow out the belt signature will help with hydrodynamics when running in the water, thus reducing torque/pressure on your mount. Heck, you might be able to run multiple small propellers of a set up like this to reduce the propellars depth so you can run in shallower water.
Sounds like a mudbug setup except you would use electric instead of a lawnmower engine.
I'm wanting to do something like that with a 16 ft. flat back canoe I have. Make a frame to run 2-3 shafts side by side through with sprockets and chain.
At some point, might be really cool to imagine this ultimate faster, long range, reliable kayak with a "spot lock" mod.
heatsink idea, do 2 through holes, in from one, out through the other (bow / stern) and do a raw water heat transfer device.
I terms of the water being 80-90F, what do you think ambient air is going to be?
Those propellers are rubber mounted so will never be perfect, that's why they are rubber mounted, to absorb any vibrations and impacts from things in the water. Thanks for such an informative video Justin 👍👍👍
That definitely is the case. The second prop is also out of balance. Should have purchased the unit with the sheer pin instead of the rubber mounted prop. The motor company makes both. Thanks for watching Rod!
@@TheGoodoftheLand no worries, i enjoy your channel as well as being a boating enthusiast and naval architect, I'm enjoying your use of batteries and electric motors which is something I'm not used to but learning a lot, it would be good to see you build a mud motor as i call them, we use a old outboard leg and mount and add a 4 stroke mower motor after deleting the water pump from the leg
+Rod Ashford That mud motor sounds cool! If you have a chance shoot me some photos on Instagram dm of email
@ thegoodoftheland22@gmail.com
@@TheGoodoftheLand everytime i get one even close to finished i get mobbed by guy's wanting it lol, i don't have any pics because of this, all it really is , is a 15 hp yamaha 2 stroke leg and mount minus the motor, all you have to do is take th he water pump out of the leg so it doesn't keep pumping water up to the base of your lawn mower motor, and retro fit a 4 stroke mower engine onto the outboard. I use 15hp because i can get plenty of old broken ones but any size will work. We use them in swampy, muddy shallow areas where you would normally clog your water intake, apart from having a air cooled motor you also end up with a motor that uses next to nothing fuel wise. The reason i started making these is for a few older guys i know who couldn't afford a $5000 outboard to go fishing, i pick up outboard and motor from our local refuse station and do them up, well worth my time and energy to see an old man going out and enjoying his time catching a few fish and crabs.
+Rod Ashford I love the idea. I have an old 5hp laying around. Gonna give it a shot!
Try also using a more complex thrust directional system to improve turns that coordinates with rudder movement. Sport boats that are planers take advantage of hull design and thrust direction by altering the tilt when turned so that it kicks the boat into a banked turn the thrust kicks the prop thrust direction upwards to assist the boat to remain banked through the turn. A combination of coordinated velocity and degree of banking thrust is how you get a more graceful feel when you need a craft that is designed to remain stable to carve a turn in the water. You don't feel safe in a turn at speed because you don't sense a stable balance between centrifugal and centripetal force and the turn therefore you sense these forces are not coordinated because you don't trust a turn you can't lean into. Either that or you're scared to lean into it because you have yet to try. Take it where the water is 3' deep and put on a 7 mil wetsuit and figure out what it's limits are in stand up shallow water. Then reengineer the turn/thrust angle components until it's hard to dump it in a turn even in rough water -- if that much is possible.
I wonder how much a knife edge would help efficiency in front of the propeller. you're pushing a lot of water with that blunt edge.
Also love these videos. I have almost no use for one of these and yet i absolutely want one. haha
You can pot the motor blue robotics sells potting compound to protect the windings of the motor.they also have wire glands and a bunch of other stuff too.
So fun to watch
Thanks! There are two new videos out in this series!
Awesome...Im eager to see where it goes.. hoping to fit something on my Bonafide SS127 by next spring...I definitely don't need it to go 15mph..lol
+TheGrtpmkn with this system you canc run all day at 5 to 7 mph and still have enough power for some 10mph fun. The Bonafide is perfect for this setup.
Your voice and the way you talk always reminds me of Tom Segura (: Awesome update on the build, dude! Nice job.
I dont hear it lmao that's funny though
Nice! I wouldn't ditch the steering mechanism altogether I'd keep it as a backup just disconnect it at the rear. The foot pegs are good enough I had them I hated the spongy feel with the trimmer line flex with a crappy trolling motor setup. If you're new improved steering setup fails you'll have the backup. Maybe a smooth foot track system with coated cables instead of stretchy trimmer line, which I could imagine snapping during a full speed power turn resulting in catastrophic steering loss and a high side 🙃.
That broken weld ...
Electric motors are torque MONSTERS. They can produce a lot of torque nearly instantaneously. This is why when it comes to electric cars, gear multi-speed transmissions are not a thing (If memory serves me correctly, years ago an EV manufacturer tried developing a multi-speed transmission for their EV. The motor kept stripping the transmission's gears so that was omitted from the finished product. Most EV's do not have a multiple speed transmission and they can out accelerate their IC counterpart.)
I am not surprised the weld broke.
Awesome seeing your progress! Also, why not just buy a cheap 12v pump to circulate water from the lake through the esc? Much easier and efficient compared to a peltier system. Just use cable glands through the watertight box with brass/aluminum tubes inside them. You can then connect the hoses to each end of these tubes to make a watertight connection.
Anyways, keep up the with the good work!
+RC 44 I considered using the lake water but decided against it. I have problems on my boat with the water inlet and indicator stream getting clogged on this lake. Thought it would be better to make a sealed system. Turns out I don't even need to worry about the hear. Just a couple of heat sinks were enough to keep the unit in the high 80's F. That was a relief!
Now I want one... one with a cole fired furnace and an anvil...hihihihi
Man you look well, the Covid time has been kind to you...
That kayak’s hull is super efficient in “displacement mode” since it’s a displacement hull. It’s not a planing hull so when get to certain speed drag becomes massive. You have easily surpassed that speed. You are at a point where you have to lift the hull out of water and Encourage the water to release the water.
kinda, it's not true displacement hull and it's not a sport boat hull. It's a balance of both. If it were a displacement hull the top hull speed would be 4mph. I can almost hit four with a paddle. This is a fishing kayak and one of the key features is the stability built into the hull. Think of a barrel. That would be a displacement hull. Without a keel it would be very unstable and roll. Compare that to a job boat and you have a very stable platform but it is a choppy ride. This boat is a john (actually better with the built in chines)in the center and a taper on each end. The main issue is it looses all planning abilities and displacement in the rear taper. Motor boats have a square stern to support the boat on plane. Had to add the foil to solve that issue. Works fantastic! It hit plane with me (220lbs) at 10mph. Had to tape up the scuffer holes but it did it. Now we just need to get her to full power. My guess is single motor 15mph. Hope that helps, the next vid is more of a displacement hull design. That's going to be interesting. I might get wet! Thanks for watching!
The Good of the Land
Please show the bottom from bow to stern. Focus in on the chines. If they aren’t right they can actually cause drag. I’ve made subtle changes on boat bottoms that made radical improvements. Several times I’ve been accused of violating engine rules(racing), but it was the hull and prop. Tech inspection left them scratching their heads. Lol.
is there any way we can buy this in a kit instead of us having to look for parts ? And a manual
MO POWA BABY.
You clearly need a Binford 5000, arrrr arRR ARRR
If I use the out of water method will I need to water cool it? Whats the best method of doing this? Thanks
In regards to steering and forward and back power.
1. POWER FRONT AND BACK. Why not put a foot sized pad with a toe cup for the foot to push and pivot connector at the bottom. The pivot at the bottom would allow you to push at the top (like a standard auto gas pedal) to go forward and pull back on the toe cup for reverse.
2. TURNING. The steering could be on a conventional steering wheel pedal or foot shape to mimic a foot syle an aircraft steering stick. Behind the pad, have a belt go around a larger cog behind the lower part of the pedal and down to a smaller cog below that is connected to cables to allow the smaller amount of ankle twist for efficiency to turn, and this would pull/push rods that are enclosed in pipes up to the motor. (I think rods would work better than cables in the situation one cable tears, thus completely ruining any steering capability.)
A steering and power mechanism like the above suggested, would allow fishermen the ability to operate their motor (and overall boat) hands free so they can focus for fishing operations with their hands. This will also help the fishermen maneuver their boat when a larger fish pulls them into debrie (to get away) or the fish pulls the boat in more hazardous area.
The cooling coefficient of 90 deg water is still much better than 70 deg air.
Thats why PC rigs, that are serious power houses, are all water cooled. Even though the water is 100°F is still better than air.
@@dorsk84 the higher temp of the water is actually why water is the better cooling medium. It transfers heat and dissipates it better as well. Thats why you get hypothermia much quicker in cold water than cold air.
Could just use a water tank around the motor and add ice occasionally if needed. No sand = no problem
(With the motor out of the water)
This would also make it saltwater capable.
Those Outrunner motors are like the ones i use. And i use 100A Helicopter ESC's from Tmotor they are the Flame 100A HV they are tough. And those SPIM batteries are very Serious batteries. I have 15 14s packs that run my Inverter and portable power unit its easily capable of 5kw all day .
Can't wait to get the new motors in the water! Good to hear you like the SPIM. Not many people can power their house with their kayak:)
In regards to getting an ESC that is bigger than you need. I found that out the hard way by using a PWM controller that was rated at 40 amps with a trolling motor that draws a max of 30 amps. It blew up (literally). I'm replacing it with a unit rated at 100 amps. I'm waiting till you do more testing to purchase a brushless motor and ESC to power my peddle boat. Have you looked into LiFePo4 cells? I love mine! got 4 - 90 AH cells (made by varicore) and a bms (made by Daly) from Ailiexpress. Was able to get 6 hours on high rather than about 1.5 with an AGM battery. Keep up the good work! I look for ward to your next video and thank you for sharing!
Yes sir. I wish I wasn’t poor. We’d go 20-30. Yes 20-30s mph. Crash helmet and life jacket. Keep up great work. Stay safe stay a float.
Sir can I suggest something? These bearings, well the motor was designed for a radial load and not axial. I'm a jet engine mechanic and there are certain bearings in a jet engine that are axial load because the load is pulling foward, this prevent from the bearings get destroyed by the load. This motor is designed by an radial load and for your project will be better an axial load motor. The idea is freaking brilliant and I wish someday you succeed on all you are hoping this to become. I would buy one. Good luck.
I work on a system for SUPs. Try a Kelly Controller. They are rated for 20s and 300A, they also have temp. protection and much more. The RC stuff can`t handle the currend constandly.
Man this is awesome. Hopefully by the time I get my fishing kyack you'll have this all figured out. DO YOU Think one big battery pack could run The entire kyack? (Moter, controls, Fish finder, lights ect)
Try leaning with the turn. You can get a bit more speed out of it.
That is a patented variable pitch prop, no matter what you need, the pitch on 1 of those blades will be right, or close enough...
Use potting resin or silicone to seal the motor or make a cover for it that can be sealed and maybe add heat sink fins to it in case it may try overheating.
i think this is iron sand, we have lot of problem in "BANDO" with our drone motors with this iron dust 😉
On the 2 moter set up put them on the frunt and ues them for stering as well