I have an 03 I done basic kit on two years ago and it runs great. Done my son's 94 couple weeks ago he's on his fifty mile break in. Awesome upgrade for the money. Both bought on the summer,15% off. Thank you for your content
Hi there from the land Downunder (Australia). I did a basic 1275 upgrade on my 1997 883, a year or so back. So the basic kit is the pistons and barrels on stock heads, which gives me a 10.1:1 compression ratio. I used the standard Carburettor, with an S&S teardrop air filter and a 2-1 exhaust system I’ve had since I bought the bike in 2007. I’m thinking of putting a Mikuni on it, but I’m not sure it needs it. (Conversion rates mean that everything is so darn expensive here!) I have a 29 tooth drive sprocket, which gave me less vibration at highway touring speeds (coz of the lower revs). I’ve covered most of Eastern Australia on this bike in 883 configuration and have the suspension set up better than stock, with 1” longer shocks, to give better ground clearance in the twisties. A friend on his Laverda Jota was pissed that he was grinding stuff in corners trying to keep up with me, whilst I was not. The first thing I noticed when doing the 50 mile and the next stage of the break in process, was that it is MUCH smoother running than it was. I discovered that the pistons Hammer supplied are actually the ideal weight for this motor, and a guy I had do some carburettor tuning (after the full break in) didn’t quite believe me when I told him that I hadn’t the crank balanced. I did do a total engine pulldown, as it WAS over 20 years old and I decided to replace evey bearing that need it in the gearbox, etc. I had an engineer look at the crank and rods, bearings, etc, at the same time he rebuilt the heads and he said the bottom end was in great shape. I put in a 2007 oil pump for the improved scavenging and Hammer’s bronze oil pump gear, plus one of their machined steel timing rotors. Since completing the break in and fine tuning the carbs, I’ve found that I get significantly better mileage, but the power is simply awesome! I have to be careful taking off from the lights, because it likes to lift the front wheel, but it’s not insane. It’s in the mid-range where it really pulls hard and although I haven’t had the throttle fully open in top gear, I’ve hit over 130mph with ease, which is more than enough for me. It’s the acceleration from 80-100 that blows my mind. Of course, this engine isn't rubber mounted, but it is so much more smooth than it was, that i have to really watch the speedo, as our cops are the most humourless people and anything more than 20mph over the limit will earn a fine of over a grand, plus an instant 6 month licence suspension. There’s even a possibility that the bike could be forfeit! (I told you they’re humourless) Anyway, at 67 years old, I’ve slowed down a little since my teens and I just enjoy having more power than I really need on tap, especially in the twisties, where I hardly get out of third gear (Just roll on and off the throttle, as needed) Engine braking is more than adequate, unless I need to avoid a hazard or a corner tightens up significantly. Your bike sounds good in the video. I can’t speak highly enough of the people at Hammer Performance. Hope you have as great a time with your 1275 as I’m having with mine. Cheers mate, from Oz.
Totally agree and thank you for the comment! Such good bikes as it is and the 1275 is just plain magical. I've put about 6-7K miles on it so far this year so I am most definitely enjoying it!
My mate did 1275cc kit with cams & head sent away to USA to get heads.HE added 4" of length to swingarm & carbon fiber fenders & 10L fuel tank. Put 4 pit Nissen brake single disc on front & HE drag races it down the ¼ mile.It's way more powerful in higher rev range & he rides it on the road too but puts a street tune into it.Yoy see him shifting his body weight into corners cause of extra length & is more careful cause of extra length.Blows away mates 1589cc Fatbob & is about 1" longer & chain driven to take the torque off the line with his launch control. A 2" stretch to swingarm on a street version be good & better for cornering his one us full on drag bike.
Absolutely. Would just be a bit rowdy-er since they are lighter but Hammer has built a ton of solid moint Sporties. As for fxr sportster frames I've never heard of that but I'm VERY interested!
@@EngineeringGoneWrong, I didn't know that they're lighter. It's good to know that it would handle the power correctly, so it wouldn't be sort of a waste of money. I prefer the older frame, and I eventually want to get one of the kits, but I want somewhat milder pistons, for more reliability and a longer lasting engine. I remember seeing some, years ago, just like the Softail frames for Sportsters. I just looked again, and I found this.
Twin tec yes. No on the cable because inital 0 slope 2 is what hammer tells you to set these for. No custom ignition tuning needed. Now, could you get more out of it with a custom tining map? Good question. Would have to ask Hammer on that one.
I would not do just the cams on an XL. Because unlike on the Big Twins how they have many cams available that make power and torque increases throughout the entire RPM range its not like that for the Sportsters they lose some power and torque in the low RPM range with the aftermarket cams. So go all out with the pistons and heads too so you dont feel that power loss down low if you are going to modify beyond exhaust and Air Cleaner.
I mean...I hear you on that. However if you can stomach the slight down low loss you really stand to wake the bike up completely overall though so it's a tradeoff at that point.
Not entirely true. Jackhammer 570 from Hammer Performance doesnt sacrifice anything in the low range, and you gain throughout the rest of the range. Amazing cam if you aint trying to spend on the heads, because you’d be spending twice as much. And if you aint WOT all the time, then the 570 is a great choice.
I have an 05 xl1200. I got the 1275 kit with the jackhammer 570 cams, ported heads, ignition, and other smaller upgrades. I've had it for about five years now and it still puts the same smile on my face that it did the first time I let it loose after the break in. Highly recommend the product and the company. I live about 45 minutes from their shop and they are great people. They remembered my build after about 3 years and gave me a tour of their shop.
@@disht2 You should have it dyno tuned, and see what she's pulling. If your carb is tuned right,, and with a 2 into 1 exhaust like a Thunderheader you should be able to get 100 plus hp. Back when I had my 1200 Sporty they didn't have all of the aftermarket performance parts avaliable that they do now by Hammer, etc. On cams your choices were Screaming Eagle, and Andrew's, and with those cams you lost some power down low.
Cobra el diablo 2-1. On carburetor bikes you need to buy the o2 sensor plugs otherwise you'll have holes in the headers. Otherwise it fits fine. They technically don't say it fits the 04-06 bikes but it does.
Your supposed to vary your speed during break in and you're just staying at one RPM range you'll wear a flat spot on those cams so you'll have dead acceleration from that RPM when trying to accelerate.
I was varying speed (and therfore rpm it just may not have shown on camera well) Also, these are not a flat tappet setup so you'll never wear a flat spot on the cam unless a roller locks up and that has nothing to do with break in. The idea being varying rpm is more to ensure the rings seat to the cylinder bore then it is for the cams.
@@EngineeringGoneWrong hell come down during riding season hit me up im in burlington nc , you can check out mine on here or insta either one ,you gotta a sharp looking bike , only thing im changing up on my motor build vs yours is im using buell lightning heads , mikuni hsr 42 , and the 1275 ,10 degree pistons
@BobbyD I'd say you want to do at least cams plus the 1275 if you're upgrading from a 1200. If not you may feel like you wasted money since it won't be THAT much faster. If you get into head work is when you'll really notice a difference over a stock bike
@BobbyD I did 570 cams and 1275. No headwork. I primarially did it since my engine was burning a ton of oil and had some miles on it. It's pretty quick 0-80ish, and really pulls quite strong well into the low 100s. It probably has a solid 125-130mph in it. I'm taking GPS speeds not inflated Speedometer speeds. Basically all bikes are like 10-15mph off at high speeds.
Previous owner of my bike put SE slip ons, intake and carb tube on it way back in the day. With that setup it topped out at 110 GPS speed after a LONGG time. Hammer 1275 with cv carb it would be 120ish and I ran out of runway...I don't like going that fast often personally. With the mikuni I don't know for sure yet but I saw 122ish and decided to slow down cause I'm a panzi haha
Hell yea man the Buells are awesome bikes! I'd love to add one to thr stable one day. It's too bad they didn't carry the motor over into the newer sportsters when they sold off Buell.
@@EngineeringGoneWrong Eric Buell Designed the Halicon 1125 with some help from Rotax in Austria where they were mfg'ed. I heard that Eric Buell brought the Tooling to WI where he made those engines in the USA for EBR it became 1190 CC's and made 185 HP
@@EngineeringGoneWrong HD spent $116 Million to shut down the New Buell Factory in 2009. Eric Buell went on to run EBR and build more new Bikes.. When Eric ran out of money , an asset Liquidation CO bought all the EBR parts and Tooling .. A few years Later HD sold the rights to the name Buell and some parts ect to the Asset Liquidator .. who is a Motorcycle Enthusiast.. Now they are building Brand New Buell's in Grand Rapids MI.. I would like a new Liquid Cooled Buell. I will be selling my 2008 Buell Ulyesses with side cases, Top Case .. Crash bars larger wind screen ect then. It has 19,000 miles on it at the moment .. I upgraded to the larger 3 wheel bearing rear wheel and an LED Headlight .. and taller windscreen. It has side cases and a Top case.
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I have an 03 I done basic kit on two years ago and it runs great. Done my son's 94 couple weeks ago he's on his fifty mile break in. Awesome upgrade for the money. Both bought on the summer,15% off. Thank you for your content
Hi there from the land Downunder (Australia). I did a basic 1275 upgrade on my 1997 883, a year or so back. So the basic kit is the pistons and barrels on stock heads, which gives me a 10.1:1 compression ratio. I used the standard Carburettor, with an S&S teardrop air filter and a 2-1 exhaust system I’ve had since I bought the bike in 2007. I’m thinking of putting a Mikuni on it, but I’m not sure it needs it. (Conversion rates mean that everything is so darn expensive here!) I have a 29 tooth drive sprocket, which gave me less vibration at highway touring speeds (coz of the lower revs). I’ve covered most of Eastern Australia on this bike in 883 configuration and have the suspension set up better than stock, with 1” longer shocks, to give better ground clearance in the twisties. A friend on his Laverda Jota was pissed that he was grinding stuff in corners trying to keep up with me, whilst I was not. The first thing I noticed when doing the 50 mile and the next stage of the break in process, was that it is MUCH smoother running than it was. I discovered that the pistons Hammer supplied are actually the ideal weight for this motor, and a guy I had do some carburettor tuning (after the full break in) didn’t quite believe me when I told him that I hadn’t the crank balanced. I did do a total engine pulldown, as it WAS over 20 years old and I decided to replace evey bearing that need it in the gearbox, etc.
I had an engineer look at the crank and rods, bearings, etc, at the same time he rebuilt the heads and he said the bottom end was in great shape. I put in a 2007 oil pump for the improved scavenging and Hammer’s bronze oil pump gear, plus one of their machined steel timing rotors.
Since completing the break in and fine tuning the carbs, I’ve found that I get significantly better mileage, but the power is simply awesome! I have to be careful taking off from the lights, because it likes to lift the front wheel, but it’s not insane. It’s in the mid-range where it really pulls hard and although I haven’t had the throttle fully open in top gear, I’ve hit over 130mph with ease, which is more than enough for me. It’s the acceleration from 80-100 that blows my mind. Of course, this engine isn't rubber mounted, but it is so much more smooth than it was, that i have to really watch the speedo, as our cops are the most humourless people and anything more than 20mph over the limit will earn a fine of over a grand, plus an instant 6 month licence suspension. There’s even a possibility that the bike could be forfeit! (I told you they’re humourless) Anyway, at 67 years old, I’ve slowed down a little since my teens and I just enjoy having more power than I really need on tap, especially in the twisties, where I hardly get out of third gear (Just roll on and off the throttle, as needed) Engine braking is more than adequate, unless I need to avoid a hazard or a corner tightens up significantly. Your bike sounds good in the video. I can’t speak highly enough of the people at Hammer Performance. Hope you have as great a time with your 1275 as I’m having with mine. Cheers mate, from Oz.
Totally agree and thank you for the comment! Such good bikes as it is and the 1275 is just plain magical. I've put about 6-7K miles on it so far this year so I am most definitely enjoying it!
My mate did 1275cc kit with cams & head sent away to USA to get heads.HE added 4" of length to swingarm & carbon fiber fenders & 10L fuel tank.
Put 4 pit Nissen brake single disc on front & HE drag races it down the ¼ mile.It's way more powerful in higher rev range & he rides it on the road too but puts a street tune into it.Yoy see him shifting his body weight into corners cause of extra length & is more careful cause of extra length.Blows away mates 1589cc Fatbob & is about 1" longer & chain driven to take the torque off the line with his launch control.
A 2" stretch to swingarm on a street version be good & better for cornering his one us full on drag bike.
I did a short of it parked up & you can see the whopper chain on it & added swingarm.Look at my Shorts you'll see it.
Heard a racing engine builder say he lets the engine hit optimal temperature then a cool down ten times then he runs on the dyno
Do you think that the solid mounted Sportster would handle the power correctly? And I thought there were FXR frames for Sportsters.
Absolutely. Would just be a bit rowdy-er since they are lighter but Hammer has built a ton of solid moint Sporties.
As for fxr sportster frames I've never heard of that but I'm VERY interested!
@@EngineeringGoneWrong,
I didn't know that they're lighter. It's good to know that it would handle the power correctly, so it wouldn't be sort of a waste of money. I prefer the older frame, and I eventually want to get one of the kits, but I want somewhat milder pistons, for more reliability and a longer lasting engine. I remember seeing some, years ago, just like the Softail frames for Sportsters. I just looked again, and I found this.
have you upgraded ignition? twin tec? did you get the programing cable?
Twin tec yes. No on the cable because inital 0 slope 2 is what hammer tells you to set these for. No custom ignition tuning needed. Now, could you get more out of it with a custom tining map? Good question. Would have to ask Hammer on that one.
Yammie and ryan fortnine are bike nerds from hell love those guys 🤣
Hell yea me too man.
good yarn thanks
Thank ya
@@EngineeringGoneWrong keep it up
@rosstisbury1626 haha I surely will there are lots of new videos out/ coming out on the bike!!
I would not do just the cams on an XL. Because unlike on the Big Twins how they have many cams available that make power and torque increases throughout the entire RPM range its not like that for the Sportsters they lose some power and torque in the low RPM range with the aftermarket cams. So go all out with the pistons and heads too so you dont feel that power loss down low if you are going to modify beyond exhaust and Air Cleaner.
I mean...I hear you on that. However if you can stomach the slight down low loss you really stand to wake the bike up completely overall though so it's a tradeoff at that point.
Not entirely true. Jackhammer 570 from Hammer Performance doesnt sacrifice anything in the low range, and you gain throughout the rest of the range. Amazing cam if you aint trying to spend on the heads, because you’d be spending twice as much. And if you aint WOT all the time, then the 570 is a great choice.
I have an 05 xl1200. I got the 1275 kit with the jackhammer 570 cams, ported heads, ignition, and other smaller upgrades. I've had it for about five years now and it still puts the same smile on my face that it did the first time I let it loose after the break in. Highly recommend the product and the company. I live about 45 minutes from their shop and they are great people. They remembered my build after about 3 years and gave me a tour of their shop.
@@disht2 You should have it dyno tuned, and see what she's pulling. If your carb is tuned right,, and with a 2 into 1 exhaust like a Thunderheader you should be able to get 100 plus hp. Back when I had my 1200 Sporty they didn't have all of the aftermarket performance parts avaliable that they do now by Hammer, etc. On cams your choices were Screaming Eagle, and Andrew's, and with those cams you lost some power down low.
What exhahust system is that? Thank You.💯👍👍
Cobra el diablo 2-1. On carburetor bikes you need to buy the o2 sensor plugs otherwise you'll have holes in the headers. Otherwise it fits fine. They technically don't say it fits the 04-06 bikes but it does.
Your supposed to vary your speed during break in and you're just staying at one RPM range you'll wear a flat spot on those cams so you'll have dead acceleration from that RPM when trying to accelerate.
I was varying speed (and therfore rpm it just may not have shown on camera well)
Also, these are not a flat tappet setup so you'll never wear a flat spot on the cam unless a roller locks up and that has nothing to do with break in. The idea being varying rpm is more to ensure the rings seat to the cylinder bore then it is for the cams.
What part of nc you from , in nc as well , also doing 1275 on my sporty
I'm not actually I live in Upstate NY. My family lives in the Charlotte area so I go visit and bring the bike which works out great.
@@EngineeringGoneWrong hell come down during riding season hit me up im in burlington nc , you can check out mine on here or insta either one ,you gotta a sharp looking bike , only thing im changing up on my motor build vs yours is im using buell lightning heads , mikuni hsr 42 , and the 1275 ,10 degree pistons
The 2into1 sound gutless
Maybe so but it sure doesn't run gutless!
Did u upgrade from 1200?
Yes
@@EngineeringGoneWrong does it make big difference with torque and speed
@BobbyD I'd say you want to do at least cams plus the 1275 if you're upgrading from a 1200. If not you may feel like you wasted money since it won't be THAT much faster.
If you get into head work is when you'll really notice a difference over a stock bike
@@EngineeringGoneWrong what kind of kit did u get and how much. It’s better to change clutch plates too right? Was it worth it overall
@BobbyD I did 570 cams and 1275. No headwork. I primarially did it since my engine was burning a ton of oil and had some miles on it.
It's pretty quick 0-80ish, and really pulls quite strong well into the low 100s. It probably has a solid 125-130mph in it. I'm taking GPS speeds not inflated Speedometer speeds. Basically all bikes are like 10-15mph off at high speeds.
35k on my lil 883 2004 sporty, gonna slap the 1275 on her because it's an absolute dog on the highway can barely cruise 75-80
The 1275 will allow you to cruise at 100 if you so choose 👍🏼👍🏼
Breaking in a air cooled engine in cooler temperatures is great,as long as the oil reaches it's operating temperature.
Totally agree. I felt very comfortable doing it when I did, middle of summer can defintely be tricky.
My stg 1 2008 1200c tops at 136 it better top out above that
lmao.....no it doesn't
Previous owner of my bike put SE slip ons, intake and carb tube on it way back in the day. With that setup it topped out at 110 GPS speed after a LONGG time.
Hammer 1275 with cv carb it would be 120ish and I ran out of runway...I don't like going that fast often personally.
With the mikuni I don't know for sure yet but I saw 122ish and decided to slow down cause I'm a panzi haha
so I'm going for a stupid ride???
Not exactly. I'd say more an average iq ride.
All that time and Money and my Stock Buell still beats it .
Hell yea man the Buells are awesome bikes! I'd love to add one to thr stable one day. It's too bad they didn't carry the motor over into the newer sportsters when they sold off Buell.
@@EngineeringGoneWrong Eric Buell Designed the Halicon 1125 with some help from Rotax in Austria where they were mfg'ed. I heard that Eric Buell brought the Tooling to WI where he made those engines in the USA for EBR it became 1190 CC's and made 185 HP
@@EngineeringGoneWrong HD spent $116 Million to shut down the New Buell Factory in 2009. Eric Buell went on to run EBR and build more new Bikes.. When Eric ran out of money , an asset Liquidation CO bought all the EBR parts and Tooling .. A few years Later HD sold the rights to the name Buell and some parts ect to the Asset Liquidator .. who is a Motorcycle Enthusiast.. Now they are building Brand New Buell's in Grand Rapids MI..
I would like a new Liquid Cooled Buell. I will be selling my 2008 Buell Ulyesses with side cases, Top Case .. Crash bars larger wind screen ect then. It has 19,000 miles on it at the moment .. I upgraded to the larger 3 wheel bearing rear wheel and an LED Headlight .. and taller windscreen. It has side cases and a Top case.
Did you race him or what? What stock buell do you have that is so special?
@RedlineDR1200 I since added the mikuni carb and it made a noticeable difference. It's really a great running bike!