So you are lifting the shock at full extension. Wouldnt this cause topping out of the shock over bumps? What if you compress the spring, wind the shock into the body and then thread the shock upwards using the force of the spring to maintain the control arm height. Wouldnt this give you desired preload and shock travel
Yes, this would also have the desired effect. The shock will always top out at full extension of the spring unless you have limiting straps, or unless the shock has some sort of internal top out spring or hydraulic top out stop. “Zone control” on some of Bilstein’s newer offroad suspension would be an example of this.
May I ask why your coilovers come with a sticker that states not to mess with preload…. My mechanic stated the preload was incorrect after installing my coilovers without adjusting them. But each individual struts had this sticker to NOT TO MESS WITH PRELOAD… Please can anyone from FA please answer this?
tightening preload stiffens the spring, loosening it makes it softer to a point. preload is set up to match the stiffness of your shock, but you can absolutely crank that hoe to get ultra hotboi static stiffness.
Some applications require a minimum amount of preload to avoid unwanted spring noise, like that which can be heard in the video before preload is properly set. While adjusting preload from the factory setting should not cause issues, it can introduce some noise if not preloaded enough.
Preload is simple and, at the same time, tricky. Essentially, Preload = More ride height (Less Droop, More Compression, total travel THE SAME) and Less Spring travel. Example: Sprung Corner Weight: 500lb Spring Rate: 250lb/in Spring Compression till Coilbind: 7in Motion Ratio: 1 Suspension Travel: 5in With 0in preload: 500/250 = 2in of Droop 5-2 = 3in of Compression 7-0 = 7in of Spring Compression Available With 1in of preload: 500/250-1 = 1in of Droop || Corner Raised 1in 5-1 = 4in of Compression 7-1 = 6in of Spring Compression Available No matter the preload a linear spring will be a linear spring. Too much preload: 3in 500/250-3 = 0in of Droop || Corner Raised 2in || 250lb Excess 5-0 = 5in of Compression 7-3 = 4in of Spring Compression available In this scenario, you will have a "bouncy" and hard ride since now you need to produce 0.5g just for the suspension to react. Not only that, you're losing an entire 1in of compression since your spring will bind before the full stroke a cause a jarring thud.
@@CB-tx3ul The height of the rear spring has nothing to do with the adjustment of the barrel core. The adjustment of the rear barrel core is to change the stroke of the axis core (piston rod) retracting into the barrel core. Therefore, it is wrong to adjust the length of the barrel core by the compression degree of the spring. Because you don't know whether the position of the shaft core (piston rod) in the barrel core is correct.
@@brucelin2855 You actually do know the shock is in the correct spot, if the spring rate is matched properly to vehicle weight or intended use. This is no different from adjusting a coilover setup, where spring preload is set at full shock droop. In this case, setting the spring to the desired height is what sets ride height, then adjusting the outer section of the shock body (since the shock is at full droop regardless when the suspension is unloaded) allows you to set spring preload. The damper stroke is unaffected in this case, since stroke and overall length are unrelated. This is the correct way to do this. Set ride height, change damper ***body*** length to add preload. There is no other way unless you don't care about ride height and preload.
@@CB-tx3ul You got to the point. How do you know that the spring used in a certain car model is the most suitable for this car? Moreover, the spring configuration of a single model will be equipped with different spring and shock absorber damping forces due to different usage conditions, such as street use or track use? Therefore, even if the springs of the same model have different kilograms or lengths, the length of the shock absorber will be different. This is why the shock absorber needs to be made adjustable in length!
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This video is in tune brotherrrr🤙🏿🔥
So you are lifting the shock at full extension. Wouldnt this cause topping out of the shock over bumps?
What if you compress the spring, wind the shock into the body and then thread the shock upwards using the force of the spring to maintain the control arm height.
Wouldnt this give you desired preload and shock travel
Yes, this would also have the desired effect.
The shock will always top out at full extension of the spring unless you have limiting straps, or unless the shock has some sort of internal top out spring or hydraulic top out stop. “Zone control” on some of Bilstein’s newer offroad suspension would be an example of this.
To clarify, You do this as you are demonstrating it, with the suspension at full droop and not loaded?
yes - you adjust preload when car is full droop - usually you want to compress spring ~5% so there's some tension when going over bumps
Yes, correct!
May I ask why your coilovers come with a sticker that states not to mess with preload…. My mechanic stated the preload was incorrect after installing my coilovers without adjusting them. But each individual struts had this sticker to NOT TO MESS WITH PRELOAD… Please can anyone from FA please answer this?
tightening preload stiffens the spring, loosening it makes it softer to a point. preload is set up to match the stiffness of your shock, but you can absolutely crank that hoe to get ultra hotboi static stiffness.
Some applications require a minimum amount of preload to avoid unwanted spring noise, like that which can be heard in the video before preload is properly set. While adjusting preload from the factory setting should not cause issues, it can introduce some noise if not preloaded enough.
@@Zackparagon yes i'm sadly experiencing this as we speak, i'm fixing it soon
How did your mechanic ascertain the preload was incorrect? I hope they weren't trying to adjust height with the preload adjustment...
@@CB-tx3ul i ascertained that it was wrong by my ears when i kept hearing clunking in the rear caused by negative preload and uneven ride height.
Preload is simple and, at the same time, tricky.
Essentially, Preload = More ride height (Less Droop, More Compression, total travel THE SAME) and Less Spring travel.
Example:
Sprung Corner Weight: 500lb
Spring Rate: 250lb/in
Spring Compression till Coilbind: 7in
Motion Ratio: 1
Suspension Travel: 5in
With 0in preload:
500/250 = 2in of Droop
5-2 = 3in of Compression
7-0 = 7in of Spring Compression Available
With 1in of preload:
500/250-1 = 1in of Droop || Corner Raised 1in
5-1 = 4in of Compression
7-1 = 6in of Spring Compression Available
No matter the preload a linear spring will be a linear spring.
Too much preload: 3in
500/250-3 = 0in of Droop || Corner Raised 2in || 250lb Excess
5-0 = 5in of Compression
7-3 = 4in of Spring Compression available
In this scenario, you will have a "bouncy" and hard ride since now you need to produce 0.5g just for the suspension to react. Not only that, you're losing an entire 1in of compression since your spring will bind before the full stroke a cause a jarring thud.
way to make it way more confusing
I’m sure this could have been explained more concisely.
The adjustment method of the rear split coilover shock absorber in the video is wrong!
No, this is the correct way to do it.
@@CB-tx3ul The height of the rear spring has nothing to do with the adjustment of the barrel core. The adjustment of the rear barrel core is to change the stroke of the axis core (piston rod) retracting into the barrel core. Therefore, it is wrong to adjust the length of the barrel core by the compression degree of the spring. Because you don't know whether the position of the shaft core (piston rod) in the barrel core is correct.
@@brucelin2855 You actually do know the shock is in the correct spot, if the spring rate is matched properly to vehicle weight or intended use. This is no different from adjusting a coilover setup, where spring preload is set at full shock droop. In this case, setting the spring to the desired height is what sets ride height, then adjusting the outer section of the shock body (since the shock is at full droop regardless when the suspension is unloaded) allows you to set spring preload. The damper stroke is unaffected in this case, since stroke and overall length are unrelated. This is the correct way to do this. Set ride height, change damper ***body*** length to add preload. There is no other way unless you don't care about ride height and preload.
@@CB-tx3ul You got to the point. How do you know that the spring used in a certain car model is the most suitable for this car?
Moreover, the spring configuration of a single model will be equipped with different spring and shock absorber damping forces due to different usage conditions, such as street use or track use?
Therefore, even if the springs of the same model have different kilograms or lengths, the length of the shock absorber will be different. This is why the shock absorber needs to be made adjustable in length!
2010 Toyota blade AZE154H. Coilovers available?
pain in the ass to get full droop in your driveway with divorced spring and povo torsion beam suspension on a swift/polo etc
Going through this too on a Corsa C with a beam axle, absolute pain, i agree
There not coilovers when it's on a divorced setup. Coilover means exactly that, coil over spring
Coil-next-to
They're*
What do you call them then bruhh 😂
That divorced setup looks god awful to look at 😂
step 1) get a lift
You can’t jack up your car?