Which is a good marketing strategy. People watch those videos to get help fixing their bikes. And they get the job done. And once those people decide to get proper tools - well, I own a few park tool tools. And I despise commercials. I actively try to avoid products advertised to me. I realize, that this channel is advertisement. But unkike usual advertisement, it provides me with value.
After watching this video, I went to a bike shop and bought a CC-3.2. I then checked chains on my 5 bikes. Out of 5 bikes, 3 had to replace chains. Lesson learned.
I've just started really getting into riding/maintaining my bike, and all of these videos are making me feel like a terrible bike owner...lol. I'm just glad I'm learning all this on a bike that cost less than $1k.
So I bought this tool a few years ago and thought I would try it today on my 8speed mtb. Read over 1.0 with wiggle room. Love how simple the cc-2 tool is and how it may have just saved me some injury or at the least a long walk back to the car
8 speed chain last longer than 9,10,11,12.............8 all the way, there are 11-42 tooth cassette almost the same as a 1x10.................8 all the way
Brilliant video, thanks for the clear and precise details required to check the bike chains. Now I’m worried I’ve taken it to far and may need to replace my gears 😩🤔 better to be safe than sorry. Cheers 🍻
My mountain bike chain is 24 years old and has several hundred miles on it. Thinking it may need changing. The teeth on my chainrings are down to nubs.
Helpful. Thanks. You guys do an excellent job embedding demonstration pictures within the video. I always knew I was supposed to use chain wear tool inside an INNER link but I never knew why. And, to be honest, I wonder "Wait. Did they say measure from inner links or outer links?" So, when you said "Insert hook into inner link so that you're measuring against a roller, and not against a side plate" it took me a minute to understand wth you were talking about, but now that I do, I will never wonder "Inner plates or outter plates?" again! Great explanation! But that would have been a great time for a little demonstration window showing the hook of chain wear tool sitting incorrectly against end of inner plate instead of on roller.
The "roller" and "side plates" reference weren't easy to understand for me. I think the reason behind the guidance is that when the tool is inserted between the outer plate, it can have too much diagonal movement, so it would produce false alarms.
I've got a hardtail mtb and as understood browsing and watching this I should change all the transmission (chain, cables + rear derailleur). 5 years of rough use :/
Bought the cc 3.2 like eight years ago after destroying one of my drive trains prior. One of the best buys I had done, replacing my chains about once a year from avid riding. Hmm why didn't I know about this since my childhood.. seems like critical basic bike care
One thing that most don't know including park tool is you can't just do one set of links . You can get uneven wear any point on a chain and I have seen this . One area like new and another completely worn . Please update the video and inform that you do have to test a large swath of the chain .
A chain of my friends bike has not yet passed the .75% wear mark. But the cogs seem a little bit worn (just the tips). Do you think a new chain is not going to fit?
I see the CC4 Chain Wear Indicator for sale on Amazon and it got great reviews. Is this item just as good as the CC3.2 you recommend? I'm thinking it is used an updated version since your video was posted 7 years ago. Thank you for sharing this excellent video.
First, thanks for a great video!! Also thanks for making good tools for a greener world!! Does this mean that you don't always have to get a new free wheel or cassette every time as long as you change your chain in time? How do you know when to change your free wheel or your cassette. I have a cassette if that makes any difference.
If you replace the chain on time you can often wear out 3-4 chains before needing a cassette. The only accurate way to test a cassette for wear at this time is by installing a new chain and then riding it. It can safely be assumed that if a chain is well worn that the cassette or freewheel will need to be replaced as well though. That is why in many shops they will say you need both just based on the chain measurement.
@@parktool Hi! Thank you for being so informative. At first I started to think the shops were just selling a chain every time to make more money. You saved me a lot of money! I also used for the first time my new Park chain cleaner device. I let my chain go too far and used your measuring tool to determine that. I had to ride more to pick up a new cassette, about 15 miles one way and had to ride about 14 miles today. I cleaned the chain twice and 30 revolutions. It looked very nice, but when I bent the chain side to side I could hear the slight crunch sound of sand particles still in it. If someone's chain is dirty enough can that happen after 2 cleaning rounds? Thanks again! Your company makes very nice tools, and for a greener world!
I recently got a full tune-up with a worn-out chain kept on, and I wonder if any of those derailleur adjustments might compensate for chain wear. It was probably at 0.75 then, and rode a lot last month so now it's at 0.8. If I replace my chain, will I need to adjust my shifting again? I'm a bike maintenance newbie, and don't know if tuning the shifting only compensates for cable stretch, or if chain "stretch" (wear) is a factor.
If your chain is that badly worn, you'll likely need a new cassette which you'll know for sure when it starts skipping in the most used dogs. In that case there will be a slight adjustment needed when putting on a new cassette and chain.
Very helpful! I do have a query, naive as it may sound - on an MTB, riding on urban terrain, average distance of 250km a month, in what time frame, a good quality chain might wear out?
Decent quality chains can last anywhere from 1000 to 4000 km. It all depends on the chain's metal hardness, how often you clean/lubricate it, and how much you avoid cross-chaining.
I learned the hard way..my chain kept slipping when I apply force going up hills and I avoided it now I have to replace the chain and freewheel..I'm going to invest in a good chain checker tool and avoid the headache
Weird, when I pull the chain, like @1:14, I can see clear daylight. Yet, when I use the CC 3.2 tool it doesn't fit which tells me there isn't .5 wear on the chain. Confusing. I need to change chain? Thanks.
CASSETTE question. Are the gear tooth's supposed to be slightly twisted as viewed from above or dead straight parallel with each other and pointing forwards backwards perfectly? Noticed this on a worn and new cassette.
modern cassettes and often freewheels have teeth that are shaped to aid in shifting. This often gives them the appearance of being twisted, chipped off, shark finned or other. But in some cases these things can happen from damage or wear. So it is important to inspect.
Hello help: If you change a Ultegra chain, do you have to change to a new cassette, The existing cassette is 8000k old , no rain ... no sand ... no dirt ever...
Guys anyone has idea what's happening to me? I have a bike from 1997 ..everything is mostly Shimano XT on it. I have xt front crankset for IG chains, then I have rear 8-speed cassete XT which is in very great condition and has no abuse of teeth or anything, I have new IG chain which is spot on with the length, I measured it like 3x with 3 different methods, all derailleurs are the ones they should be there for that particular bike so the rear one is XT 8 speed, the front one is 3speed for 8 speed rear cassette. Like literally everything is as it should be and still my chain is jumping when I suddenly want to pedal faster. It is so annoying. Anyone has any idea what else I should check?
Have you checked the barrel adjuster below the rd yet? Probably it is too tight. You might need to check the B tension screw as well and set it to required tolerance.
Take a look see at yer derailleur hanger and see if its a little bent. If'n you have friend with one, a DAG tool is the best way to check or take it to the shop and have them take a look with one.
I have a 10s cogset and chain with wear at .5%, except for the segment containing a KMC Missing Link is at .75%. I placed a new masterlink in the chain (same brand and model) but still measure .75% on that span. Should I replace the chain? It isn't running smoothly on the smallest cog despite a fresh derailleur tuneup.
If your whole chain is at .5% and you only are experiencing .75% at the connecting link then I would continue running it. When you say it is running rough in those gears what do you mean?
Park Tool By “rough” I mean a momentary “Kachunk” as if it is trying to shift to the next lower cog. It’s still in the highest cog, but once or twice a minute it catches if I’m riding under much torque or hitting wavy pavement. I’ve stopped using the highest speed to avoid causing more damage, all the other shifts are smooth and the cogs run quietly. I noticed some damaged corners on the 11T cog, so I took it in to a shop and put in an order for a replacement cog. They’ll also add a new chain when it arrives.
Chain wear is typically slower on systems with less speeds because the chains are thicker and have more material that is wearing away. The number of speeds in the front does not have a big impact but can. If a rider rides in the extremes of the system the chain needs to flex more and will wear faster.
@@parktool I use front and rear derailleurs properly,no crosschaining,but my jockey/pulley wheels seem really worn.What makes more sense to change rear derailleur completely or they can be replaced separately,leaving old RD?
@ Park Tool Thanks for the video. To prolong life of chain ring & cassettes there are videos suggesting rotating chains every month (500 miles)like starting with chain 1 then 2 and then 3 and restarting with chain 1and replace all 3 after a year. So each chain has a life of 4 month / 2000 miles on it. Technically i don't get what's the difference btw this method and just changing each chain @ 2K mark (or when tool shows 0.5m wear). Do you have suggestions or comments on that technique?
One reason you might want to do this is so you are forced to clean your chain once a month. Not a bad idea but I'd rather ride than clean chains. YMMV.
If your description of this technique is complete, it makes absolutely no sense IMHO. If you want to maximize the life of your chain you must keep it clean and lubed. If you can hear it, wipe in down with Isopropyl Alcohol and lube it. Then let it soak overnight, a quick wipe of any excess lube the next day, and you're ready to go! Peace and love j
for anyone still reading this. I'm a noob and this is the first I've seen this idea, but it does seem to make a bit of sense to me after giving it some thought. I think this makes the most sense to start with a new cassette, new chains and probably new front chain rings. The only thing I'm somewhat confident in being an advantage in this method is that you can avoid the point where you replace a badly worn chain with a new one and the equally worn cassette will make the new chain skip, for some time anyway. If you replace a badly worn chain with a somewhat less but still significantly worn one, there won't be as much of a difference. Or so I think. So, at the end of the whole cycle, when you're say going from chain 1 to chain 2 on their 4th (final) use, had you put on a new chain instead of the 3/4 worn chain 2, you may have had it skip on the cassette, cause the cassette may be quite worn itself at this point, making you buy a new cassette. The 3/4 worn chain 2 is closer to being as worn as the cassette is than the new chain so it would probably skip less or not at all, meaning in this scenario, you got more life out of the cassette. All this hassle with the chains seems to be a way to prolong the useable life of the cassette and crankset, cause it makes sure you always have a chain that is roughly as worn as the cogs. Why not just continue using a badly worn chain when a brand new one would skip and the cassette would need replacing anyway? I don't know. Like someone else already said, it's a good way to make you clean the drive train more often, so there's that.
Can someone confirm if I understood correctly the part about the bike speeds. When he says 10 or fewer rear gears he means 10 cogs on the rear wheel? Most of the bikes I had were 8 gears or less so Im not sure if I understood correctly.
Random story if anyone can give a damn to read haha I changed a chain on my dads e-bike literally to just change colour from silver to black. All of a sudden with new chain was crunching gears, put the old chain on and was all good, we checked the cassette and now 2 teeth were bent. We bent them back and rode and the chain snapped, we blamed it on the new YBN chain being 10mm shorter. So got a new XX1 hollowpin chain, I accidentally pushed the wrong pin out, my dad didn't want to pin it back because he didn't want a hollowpin chain anyway. So got a solid pin chain, tested and gears were still snapping into place. I changed the gear cable but ended up being a days job because I dropped a bolt into the motor. Cable didn't fix problem. So I put a new cassette and derailleur on and was shifting smoothly. On the 3 ride started crunching gears, the new chain had burrs all over it and stiff links and the new cassette had burrs. Turns out the YBN chain wasn't 10mm short but the original chain had grown 10mm and had completely worn the front chainring which was destroying everything🤣
Here is a link to our worldwide distributors. www.parktool.com/trade-resources/worldwide-distributors Looks like the distributor in Spain is Team Bike S.L. Thanks
You know what's best about park tool? Even though they sell specific bike tools they still show the alternatives and diy steps
Which is a good marketing strategy. People watch those videos to get help fixing their bikes. And they get the job done. And once those people decide to get proper tools - well, I own a few park tool tools.
And I despise commercials. I actively try to avoid products advertised to me. I realize, that this channel is advertisement. But unkike usual advertisement, it provides me with value.
After watching this video, I went to a bike shop and bought a CC-3.2. I then checked chains on my 5 bikes. Out of 5 bikes, 3 had to replace chains. Lesson learned.
Wow serious? .. I guy with five bikes is expected to have some basic knowledge about basic maintenance !
@@dcristian969no need to criticize too hard. He’s learning and doing something about it.
@@mikeywi96sorry if this was the thing that everyone has understood! I Just was confused!
hook line and sinker
I've just started really getting into riding/maintaining my bike, and all of these videos are making me feel like a terrible bike owner...lol. I'm just glad I'm learning all this on a bike that cost less than $1k.
there is much more than you can find on yt
Very clear and straight forward! Every “how to ......” video should be like this! Thank you for making this video.
Excellent advice and straightforward! I laughed when the guy fell checking with the ruler.😂
So I bought this tool a few years ago and thought I would try it today on my 8speed mtb. Read over 1.0 with wiggle room. Love how simple the cc-2 tool is and how it may have just saved me some injury or at the least a long walk back to the car
8 speed chain last longer than 9,10,11,12.............8 all the way, there are 11-42 tooth cassette almost the same as a 1x10.................8 all the way
@@INTEL965GAMES if i have an 8 by 3 gear bike is that an 8 speed?
@@dingdongsanderbob5413 YEAH....Even 2x8, 1X8 can work.....There cassettes 11-46 tooths......
@@dingdongsanderbob5413 Yes. It's all about the rear cassette. Chains for these cassettes are 3/32 inch wide. Above 8, they're narrower.
Brilliant video, thanks for the clear and precise details required to check the bike chains. Now I’m worried I’ve taken it to far and may need to replace my gears 😩🤔 better to be safe than sorry. Cheers 🍻
My mountain bike chain is 24 years old and has several hundred miles on it. Thinking it may need changing. The teeth on my chainrings are down to nubs.
Helpful. Thanks. You guys do an excellent job embedding demonstration pictures within the video. I always knew I was supposed to use chain wear tool inside an INNER link but I never knew why. And, to be honest, I wonder "Wait. Did they say measure from inner links or outer links?" So, when you said "Insert hook into inner link so that you're measuring against a roller, and not against a side plate" it took me a minute to understand wth you were talking about, but now that I do, I will never wonder "Inner plates or outter plates?" again! Great explanation! But that would have been a great time for a little demonstration window showing the hook of chain wear tool sitting incorrectly against end of inner plate instead of on roller.
The "roller" and "side plates" reference weren't easy to understand for me. I think the reason behind the guidance is that when the tool is inserted between the outer plate, it can have too much diagonal movement, so it would produce false alarms.
This helped a lot but what helped the most was the guy falling over in the video that made my day
I've got a hardtail mtb and as understood browsing and watching this I should change all the transmission (chain, cables + rear derailleur). 5 years of rough use :/
This is a great video, I share it loads, to my social posts and customers.
Bought the cc 3.2 like eight years ago after destroying one of my drive trains prior. One of the best buys I had done, replacing my chains about once a year from avid riding. Hmm why didn't I know about this since my childhood.. seems like critical basic bike care
One thing that most don't know including park tool is you can't just do one set of links . You can get uneven wear any point on a chain and I have seen this . One area like new and another completely worn . Please update the video and inform that you do have to test a large swath of the chain .
A chain of my friends bike has not yet passed the .75% wear mark. But the cogs seem a little bit worn (just the tips). Do you think a new chain is not going to fit?
Thank you for the video, it really helped to give me a peace of mind.
Best tool ... best video. Thanks Park Tool !
I see the CC4 Chain Wear Indicator for sale on Amazon and it got great reviews. Is this item just as good as the CC3.2 you recommend? I'm thinking it is used an updated version since your video was posted 7 years ago. Thank you for sharing this excellent video.
The CC-4 is a great tool. It was not out when this video came out. These videos will be updated at some point.
Very helpful and to the point(s). Love the "skip to" caption at the beginning, well thought out.
Commenting for the algorithm! Nice video, clean and straight to the point.
Hi! Thank you! So I can just change chain with out sporckets?
First, thanks for a great video!! Also thanks for making good tools for a greener world!! Does this mean that you don't always have to get a new free wheel or cassette every time as long as you change your chain in time? How do you know when to change your free wheel or your cassette. I have a cassette if that makes any difference.
If you replace the chain on time you can often wear out 3-4 chains before needing a cassette. The only accurate way to test a cassette for wear at this time is by installing a new chain and then riding it. It can safely be assumed that if a chain is well worn that the cassette or freewheel will need to be replaced as well though. That is why in many shops they will say you need both just based on the chain measurement.
@@parktool Hi! Thank you for being so informative. At first I started to think the shops were just selling a chain every time to make more money. You saved me a lot of money! I also used for the first time my new Park chain cleaner device. I let my chain go too far and used your measuring tool to determine that. I had to ride more to pick up a new cassette, about 15 miles one way and had to ride about 14 miles today. I cleaned the chain twice and 30 revolutions. It looked very nice, but when I bent the chain side to side I could hear the slight crunch sound of sand particles still in it. If someone's chain is dirty enough can that happen after 2 cleaning rounds? Thanks again! Your company makes very nice tools, and for a greener world!
I recently got a full tune-up with a worn-out chain kept on, and I wonder if any of those derailleur adjustments might compensate for chain wear. It was probably at 0.75 then, and rode a lot last month so now it's at 0.8. If I replace my chain, will I need to adjust my shifting again? I'm a bike maintenance newbie, and don't know if tuning the shifting only compensates for cable stretch, or if chain "stretch" (wear) is a factor.
The worn chain should not effect the derailleur adjustment. You can install a new chain and not have to adjust your gears.
If your chain is that badly worn, you'll likely need a new cassette which you'll know for sure when it starts skipping in the most used dogs. In that case there will be a slight adjustment needed when putting on a new cassette and chain.
Very helpful! I do have a query, naive as it may sound - on an MTB, riding on urban terrain, average distance of 250km a month, in what time frame, a good quality chain might wear out?
Decent quality chains can last anywhere from 1000 to 4000 km. It all depends on the chain's metal hardness, how often you clean/lubricate it, and how much you avoid cross-chaining.
New to the cycling world( have been a daily commuter for about 10yrs tho) and thanks tor this video
very clear and easy to understand!
00:50 "And so Moses came down from the mountain and said..Thou shall check for chain wear and the Chain shall be changed"
I learned the hard way..my chain kept slipping when I apply force going up hills and I avoided it now I have to replace the chain and freewheel..I'm going to invest in a good chain checker tool and avoid the headache
Perfect. I’ve got a CC-3.2
Thanks so much for this very useful information . . . and also describing the problem so well.
Great vid!! Much appreciated and demystifying!! Gives such a greater appreciation and understanding!
Just got a new chain (Shimano Dura-Ace). Is it recommended to use the pin connection or can I use Shimano quick link SM-CN900-11?
Very helpful video, thank you.
Thanks. That was very useful information.
Watching ur vids to use our old worn out bikes this 2020. Thanks guys :3
Thanks i ride my bike to school everyday since september guess i should get a new chain now since its falling of way to much
@@andythealien1 oh thanks for being concered but i got it fixed its fine now
Bought a wear guage and have found it really useful. Thanks for the instructional vid.
1:53 just like those black and white moments in an infomercial when the guy dramatically falls
Hello, to do the measure we have to be on the large front ring and the small cassette sprocket?
Thanks for the great info and presentation :)
Question: I get different results if I measure the top most aspect of the chain compared to the chain below the derailleur. What is the best standard?
Bottom, because the rear derailleur is pulling the cahin taut
Very helpful; thanks!
Great and very informative video. thanks.
I am using CC3.2 tool now. I noticed it went in with the 0.5 but if I used it on other links it doesn't go in? How do I interpret this? Thanks.
Do park Tool items go on sale black friday?
Thank you soo much guys for these videos ! Really help a lot ! : )
Do you make another tool so that I know when my CC32 Wear Indicator is wearing out please?
perfect explanation, thank you. I want that CC2 tool now!
Superb!
Thanks! This was a VERY helpful video!
Weird, when I pull the chain, like @1:14, I can see clear daylight. Yet, when I use the CC 3.2 tool it doesn't fit which tells me there isn't .5 wear on the chain. Confusing. I need to change chain? Thanks.
But how much day light should I be seeing before changing the chain for the 1st method?
only one if you are on antarctica on summer
Brilliant vid. Thanks.
I never knew you had to replace the chain. The more you know :)
Is there a chain for bikes that last a very long time?
Great detail with the different wear of 10x vs 11 or 12x Thx!
Brilliant. Thank you.
CASSETTE question. Are the gear tooth's supposed to be slightly twisted as viewed from above or dead straight parallel with each other and pointing forwards backwards perfectly? Noticed this on a worn and new cassette.
modern cassettes and often freewheels have teeth that are shaped to aid in shifting. This often gives them the appearance of being twisted, chipped off, shark finned or other. But in some cases these things can happen from damage or wear. So it is important to inspect.
If I replace my chain that is less than 0,5% wear for a new one, can I rotate this chain (less than ,5%) back after another chain?
Do the chain wear checker work on all chain no matter the size or what cassette its on etc?
Park Tool's CC-4 will work on any chain. Our CC-2 and CC-3.2 work on most, neither work on the new SRAM flat top chains though.
@@parktool thank you
They make good videos.
😎🇦🇺
very clear video! thanks!
Many thyanks for that guys.
1:53, absolutely brilliant
i use my bike nearly everyday so im 100% gonna get one of those now
Please make a video on when to replace a cassette-chainring.
Great video. Thank you
Hello help: If you change a Ultegra chain, do you have to change to a new cassette, The existing cassette is 8000k old , no rain ... no sand ... no dirt ever...
What about other brands ? It seems that only one company is shown.
Guys anyone has idea what's happening to me? I have a bike from 1997 ..everything is mostly Shimano XT on it. I have xt front crankset for IG chains, then I have rear 8-speed cassete XT which is in very great condition and has no abuse of teeth or anything, I have new IG chain which is spot on with the length, I measured it like 3x with 3 different methods, all derailleurs are the ones they should be there for that particular bike so the rear one is XT 8 speed, the front one is 3speed for 8 speed rear cassette. Like literally everything is as it should be and still my chain is jumping when I suddenly want to pedal faster. It is so annoying. Anyone has any idea what else I should check?
Have you checked the barrel adjuster below the rd yet? Probably it is too tight. You might need to check the B tension screw as well and set it to required tolerance.
Take a look see at yer derailleur hanger and see if its a little bent. If'n you have friend with one, a DAG tool is the best way to check or take it to the shop and have them take a look with one.
At 0:45 is that an example of a chain that’s worn or new?
I have a 10s cogset and chain with wear at .5%, except for the segment containing a KMC Missing Link is at .75%. I placed a new masterlink in the chain (same brand and model) but still measure .75% on that span. Should I replace the chain? It isn't running smoothly on the smallest cog despite a fresh derailleur tuneup.
If your whole chain is at .5% and you only are experiencing .75% at the connecting link then I would continue running it. When you say it is running rough in those gears what do you mean?
Park Tool By “rough” I mean a momentary “Kachunk” as if it is trying to shift to the next lower cog. It’s still in the highest cog, but once or twice a minute it catches if I’m riding under much torque or hitting wavy pavement. I’ve stopped using the highest speed to avoid causing more damage, all the other shifts are smooth and the cogs run quietly. I noticed some damaged corners on the 11T cog, so I took it in to a shop and put in an order for a replacement cog. They’ll also add a new chain when it arrives.
Useful video, thanks
Does every chainlink have the same length? I mean compared to other chains or even brands. Dies shimano and sram have the same length?
All current bicycle chains run on a 1/2 in pitch.
Is the chain wear slower with a triple system in the front and a 6 speed freewheel in the back?
Chain wear is typically slower on systems with less speeds because the chains are thicker and have more material that is wearing away. The number of speeds in the front does not have a big impact but can. If a rider rides in the extremes of the system the chain needs to flex more and will wear faster.
@@parktool I use front and rear derailleurs properly,no crosschaining,but my jockey/pulley wheels seem really worn.What makes more sense to change rear derailleur completely or they can be replaced separately,leaving old RD?
Zmazing video, thank you! :)
Great video man!
@ Park Tool Thanks for the video. To prolong life of chain ring & cassettes there are videos suggesting rotating chains every month (500 miles)like starting with chain 1 then 2 and then 3 and restarting with chain 1and replace all 3 after a year. So each chain has a life of 4 month / 2000 miles on it. Technically i don't get what's the difference btw this method and just changing each chain @ 2K mark (or when tool shows 0.5m wear). Do you have suggestions or comments on that technique?
One reason you might want to do this is so you are forced to clean your chain once a month. Not a bad idea but I'd rather ride than clean chains. YMMV.
@@davidrook6764 thanks!
Mine bicycle chain life
15 thousand miles hero bicycle
If your description of this technique is complete, it makes absolutely no sense IMHO.
If you want to maximize the life of your chain you must keep it clean and lubed. If you can hear it, wipe in down with Isopropyl Alcohol and lube it. Then let it soak overnight, a quick wipe of any excess lube the next day, and you're ready to go!
Peace and love
j
for anyone still reading this. I'm a noob and this is the first I've seen this idea, but it does seem to make a bit of sense to me after giving it some thought. I think this makes the most sense to start with a new cassette, new chains and probably new front chain rings.
The only thing I'm somewhat confident in being an advantage in this method is that you can avoid the point where you replace a badly worn chain with a new one and the equally worn cassette will make the new chain skip, for some time anyway. If you replace a badly worn chain with a somewhat less but still significantly worn one, there won't be as much of a difference. Or so I think.
So, at the end of the whole cycle, when you're say going from chain 1 to chain 2 on their 4th (final) use, had you put on a new chain instead of the 3/4 worn chain 2, you may have had it skip on the cassette, cause the cassette may be quite worn itself at this point, making you buy a new cassette. The 3/4 worn chain 2 is closer to being as worn as the cassette is than the new chain so it would probably skip less or not at all, meaning in this scenario, you got more life out of the cassette.
All this hassle with the chains seems to be a way to prolong the useable life of the cassette and crankset, cause it makes sure you always have a chain that is roughly as worn as the cogs. Why not just continue using a badly worn chain when a brand new one would skip and the cassette would need replacing anyway? I don't know. Like someone else already said, it's a good way to make you clean the drive train more often, so there's that.
So, I'm using an 11s chain on a 10s cogset, which spec do I use for replacement, .5 or .75 ?
0.75
Thanks 👍👍
Do i have to Replace Chain & freewheel at the same time? i put a new chain on a used freewheel but i noticed It's skipping when pedaling harder!
If the chain was run worn for quite some time it will wear out the freewheel as well and will require you to replace that too.
I hope I can still save 11 spd cogs and just replace the chain. Bike parts price are getting ridiculous this days.
1:43 I paused and counted the rivets... it is 25 rivets from 0 mark to the 12th inch mark.. so it is not the 24th... but the 25th rivet
i do face the same issue
Can someone confirm if I understood correctly the part about the bike speeds. When he says 10 or fewer rear gears he means 10 cogs on the rear wheel? Most of the bikes I had were 8 gears or less so Im not sure if I understood correctly.
The "number of speeds" now mean the number of rear sprockets. The term "10 speed bike" meaning five in back and two in front is no longer used.
The instructions on the backing card of the cc3.2 tool tell you to place in the outer links first , not the inner plates as you showed.
Good point so which is it ? does it matter ?
Fool-proof! Thank you!
Is it normal that my brand new bike, had to have the chain replaced at 200km? I did that test and its wore, it doesnt make sense
Been measuring my chain at every chain clean. My forecast is 19,000 miles before I’ll need to change but wear rate will increase with wear.
Retro Dude, Old man on his bikes i wish they lasted 19k
Nolacross70 not as good as my first figures suggested. 1200 mile and now on 50% wear.
Mathematics < Forecast
How often should I replace my chain?
Depends on riding conditions, the rider and style of riding. THis is why a chain checker is a good idea.
But these tools include the wear of the rollers and doesnt measure the true elongation which can be measured only from the pins.
Random story if anyone can give a damn to read haha
I changed a chain on my dads e-bike literally to just change colour from silver to black. All of a sudden with new chain was crunching gears, put the old chain on and was all good, we checked the cassette and now 2 teeth were bent. We bent them back and rode and the chain snapped, we blamed it on the new YBN chain being 10mm shorter. So got a new XX1 hollowpin chain, I accidentally pushed the wrong pin out, my dad didn't want to pin it back because he didn't want a hollowpin chain anyway. So got a solid pin chain, tested and gears were still snapping into place.
I changed the gear cable but ended up being a days job because I dropped a bolt into the motor. Cable didn't fix problem. So I put a new cassette and derailleur on and was shifting smoothly. On the 3 ride started crunching gears, the new chain had burrs all over it and stiff links and the new cassette had burrs. Turns out the YBN chain wasn't 10mm short but the original chain had grown 10mm and had completely worn the front chainring which was destroying everything🤣
Hi. Is there a link to your international distributors more specifically in Barcelona, Spain? Thanks
Here is a link to our worldwide distributors. www.parktool.com/trade-resources/worldwide-distributors Looks like the distributor in Spain is Team Bike S.L. Thanks
@@parktool Would appreciate a link or info to any distributors in India
The Count i get is 25 rivets. What does it mean?
I have owned amountain bike for 35 years and never maintained it or sent it to a bike shop and performs extremely well
how hard to use a ruler to measure without falling on the ground?
It can be difficult. The measurement we are talking about here is about 3 average human hairs.
hi Parktool!
are those tools also compatible for SRAM?
These tools are compatible with Current SRAM drivetrains.
Amazing oncep again
Thanks bro
The time to replace the chain? I thought about it after it snapped into a limp snake...
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