Carburetor Tear down Tips
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2021
- Carburetor Tear down Tips
We invest some time into our Ford Autolite 2100 carburetor
Episode 122 Manic Mechanic
We take apart the carburetor for our 1964 Falcon Futura. We inspect the carb for issues relating to the problem we have with the car stalling and hesitating when driving. We show our methods for inspection. We show how we clean the carburetor. We show how to know what areas of the 2100 Autolite are problematic.
jford@autorestomod.com
/ gasolinemedia 
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Jeff,
If you dont have one, I would suggest getting a heated ultrasonic cleaner. They are fairly cheap on Amazon. I put my 4100 in mine with Gunk carb cleaner in the gallon can set it to around 70 to 80 deg F and turned it on for an hour. When the parts came out they looked brand new. Then just spray em off with carb cleaner and tada. Even gets into the little nicks and crannies and cleans everything out of there as well as removes oxidation.
Defiantly a must have tool.
Great idea!
Simple Green works well, too
My first car was a 72 Gran Torino. One of those "if you can get it running you can have it" things. That Motorcraft 2100 brings back a lot of memories. Some of them are even good!
LOL
72 would have been a 2300,(smog carb). 2100/4100 Autolite’s we’re not smog carbs.
When I saw carbs I thought it was another diet video. This is more like it
We aim to please; Snickers bar?
@@AutoRestoMod snickering in CA. 😂
Dig that intro, Man! Far out! Replay. Yeah, Baby! Satisfaction Guarantee. 👍 (Song: Doctor Juice, Leon Laudenbach)
Rock on!
Good job Jeff, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Edelbrock is now using Annular booster technology.Did not know Ford had it first.Thanks for the great info on carbs,I still love using carburators.
You bet!
Great info Jeff, I have been doing messing with these for years and I still learned a thing or seventeen....
Us too!
Gday from Australia Gents!!! Great video Jeff, I recently rebuilt the 4100 on my gt pony. Easiest carb I’ve ever worked on.
Yup, Loveum.
I really like my 4100 such a great carb. With the ethanol gas I did have to change to larger jets because it was running lean and pinging. Now with the new jets the timing can once again be set to specs with no pinging running 91 octane in CA.
Thanks for the info!
Great video on the basics of the 2100/4100 carbs. I find that these carbs are old enough now that I have idle problems because the butterfly shaft wears into the carb housing. The only fix is to machine and bush the carb. It really brings these back to good idle and no stumbling on acceleration.
I didn't go into that due to it being a specialty thing. But it is a good point.
Thanks for the video. We have the 4300 carb on our 68 Cougar. Don’t know if that is the original carb. Please keep making your informative videos. They rock.
The 4300 is original for 1968.
No doubt boosters should not be mixed between different size carbs. That Falcon 260 carb has a 1.01 venturi, rated 240 CFM. Probably most common are the 287 CFM, 1.08 venturi used on 289/302. As far as swapping between engines, no problem. Of course you'll over carburate a 221/260 using a 1966 424 CFM 390 carb. My '69 Fairlane used the 1.08, had been replaced with the offshore knockoff. Those are hit & miss, mine was junk. Anyway I found one of the 1.23 venturi, 356 CFM used on 351, 390 & 429 in '69(424 CFM history by '69). Freshened up, runs great. Zero hesitation, excellent off idle response. Other than long tube headers & Magna Flows, it's 302 is 100% stock.
Yep.
Wish I'd seen this when I was young!
Got it now though.
im bumping CR and adding a cam and go fast parts to my buick 455 stepping up from 750 quadrajet to a 900 quad. all these show me things to check!
Glad our videos help you!
Common issue with accelerator pump cap is distortion/warping brought on by over-torquing screws which will cause it to leak. This is not unlike what happens when an oil pan or rocker arm cover screws are over tightened. Simple fix is to vigorously swipe it back and forth over 120 grit sand paper on a hard, flat surface. Doesn't take long before you see it is sanded flat, problem fixed.
True. This carb was well maintained. Thanks for your ideas!
Great info...wished I knew about all of this 35 years ago when I struggled trying to get my ‘68 Mustang’s carb adjusted. Seems like every time I touched it I made it worse.
I hear ya!
The letter “O” in C4OF-A decodes to Fairlane
Yes
I use my old guitar strings as well. Test the power valve by using a long straight spark plug boot and see if your air suction holds on your tongue.
Yeah, I am after all this time, allergic to gas. Might make a vacuum pump tester though.
I got a carb manifold for my 94 4.9 F150... its by aussiespeedshop and it also has bosses for mpfi if i decide to go that route... i also have a 2100 carb on the way along with a CNC cylinder head... i cant wait to get the truck back together and driving... im hoping that its gonna do some wicket burn outs
Oh with almost zero weight over the rears she'll burn.
The best thing you can do with an Autolite 2100, take it off the car and hang it on the wall. If you can find a good core that doesn’t have the remains of what they call gasoline these days welded to the bottom of the float bowel, you have a museum piece, treat it as such. Sadly they’re not very good from the factory and they were never designed to be rebuilt or tweaked on, much less work with 15% methanol.
A Holly 350 is your better bet but expensive. If you absolutely must have the Autolite style unit, drop the hundred bucks and get on from A team performance. Great units despite the 2100 design, just make sure it fits since Ford was really good at making subtle changes to even a carburetor depending on the application. I keep a spare on the shelf for my 2V cars just in case the gas has welded itself to the bottom of a float bowel.
Eh, I do have a 4100 on the wall. but it will become a service unit soon. I like the 2100 and the 4100.
@@AutoRestoMod The 4100 with duel needle and seat was an absolute nightmare. Im certain these things flooded on the showroom floor. I had one on a 69’ LTD wagon with a 429. One of my cars to drive but the carb was a joke on a hot day. I messed with that thing forever until I finally I eliminate the second fuel inlet. My buddy called this the appendix of the carburetor, not sure why it was needed but it was there anyway…It worked flawlessly until the car was totaled by an old lady who ran a red …Great video, always fun watching someone else get to smell like old gas instead of me…..
On the lettering of the boosters I can check my 70 to 79 ford parts and illustration book. It breaks things down by application and it may list the older 2100s part break down.
That would be awesome. Send any information here: jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod, Will do. I will attempt to compile some kind of list with what I have, I did a quick little browse and I dont know if I will be able to break down the lettering on the booster venturi as the ford documents call it but I can get the part numbers for each specific one and can attempt to cross reference it to a carb assembly list to find application. It appears there are 8 different part numbers for the 302 application alone which may or may not condense down into a smaller number based off specific vehicle.
Nice. Real simple to build the 2150s like that. Sadly my 82 F150 is losing its 2150 2V for a holley sniper stealth 4150.
Not sure that is sad though. LOL
@@AutoRestoMod, Yep it might not be sad. Ive installed about 7 or so in the last 2 years at work and havent had no issues with them but being its my personal vehicle I can just see myself having all these issues other people talk about online lol.
Dear Team have you guys ever thought about ultrasonic cleaner or wil it damge or something elase to.the Carb ?
Yes. Most of out viewers don't have that so I left it out.
😎
Mmm carbs now I'm craving pasta. I have also run into a bunch of them with warped powervalve covers from many overtightenings.
That is an issue!
i rebuilt the carb on my 69 f 250 20 yrs ago and it still ran like a top. i found out i could go faster with a 2 bbl than with a 4 bbl. bigger jets or something. it was wicked fast and outran the neighbors transam.
Right on!
These things are just about the simplest carburetor it's possible to build. They work great until the throttle shaft gets sloppy and they leak too much vacuum to work quite right. I never drove one that didn't have a combination of engine temp and ambient temp that would cause a BAD stumble just as you pull out into traffic. Scared me half to death on more than a few occasions and I well remember the pedal dance required to keep the car from dying as it coasted in front of oncoming vehicles.
Yup. Throttle shafts seem good on this one.
My 65 Falcon 289 has the same stumble on accel. I have completely rebuilt the carb with new parts. Cleaned all the ports, replaced all gaskets and It still does it, LOL. Going to try another Accel pump diaphragm and then if that does not get it. I'm going to yank the motor and replace it and add fuel injection. Tired of fighting ethanol.
Thanks for the info
Well its fixed! checked the timing again. was off 5 degrees. played with the mixture screws again and idle speed. Test drove and it runs like a champ! Bad news is the door hinge roller peg broke off.....lol Thanks for the video on that as well!
i am CURRENTLY working on a 71 Buick riviera with a 455 4bbl
Cool car!
sometimes the accelerator cover and power valve covers leak because they warp after awhile.
Yes. But it's more to do with gorilla tightening than time. Lol
@@AutoRestoMod it was that way when i got the truck.
Tip for installing the jets: put the jet on the lead end of a pencil and hand tighten the jet with the pencil.
Great idea!
Maybe I am just used to the Holleys, but that carb design looks like a nightmare. Especially the float and seat. And the jet placement.
Yes. It was a great idea that should have seen some "ease of tuning" tweaks.
Not bad, but you forgot to point out the venturi size callout on the side of the carb. This will allow you to lookup the cfm rating more easily than searching the part number. Applies to 4100's, also.
True that! I was worried that we'd be well over 30 minutes if I got into the minutia. If folks want to see more on that, I can do a piece on Carbs that Ford used and how to identify them.
@@AutoRestoMod Cool. Lots of people cornfoosed about the later 2150, also, inasfar as subbing one for the other.
Hello. whats your opinion.on carb size for a 440 stock 1967 mopar? I ran a 750 performer series edelbrock on it for a while which i felt performance was marginal. I switched to an edelbrock 650cfm AVS 2 and it runs much better. Do you think 650 is too small for this engine?
I'd say that for your car it must be the right size. Carburation boils down to what you need for what the engine is consuming. Aftermarket heads, headers, different cams and intakes can make for a change in carburetor.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks! You hear things like holley carb or edelbrock. Which is better?
Just replaced one just like that on my dad’s 79 f150. Just went the new Chinese version. Too shot to rebuild. Runs great and only putting 3.14$ ethanol free.
Like everything but that gas price...
Did you know that this carb will run with the top off, been there done that to adjust float while it was running. Simple lil carb.
Yep. She'll spit fuel like a pit viper though.
First again
Well, yeah, because Cleveland!
where is the koolaide kid?
He doesn't typically show for the Manic Mechanic vids.
I'll only 'Comment Below' if I Can Buy that 2100 Carb from Ya 😂😁😎
So, if I say no are you deleting the comment? 😆
@@AutoRestoMod Now that's Funny 🤣😂 I did use my ole trusty 2 barrel Holley for the cam break-in and runs pretty good... but the 3 2100s I just have issues especially when they warm-up... or could it be sitting a dry hot shed for like 35+ years has caused internal cracks?? Carb not needed yet till I'm ready to put her for sale, then I want the fully factory look! NPD just got my Brake Booster back in Stock 😀😎
Why the weird face on the thumbnail?