Mercedes ML350 W166 Bluetec DEF Tank Heater Pump changeover repair test Adblue 2014 SCR OM642
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- How to drop your DEF tank and remove and replace the DEF Pump, Heater and Level Sensor unit
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Great video - I just took my AdBlue tank out to fix a leak which was due to the two hoses being disconnected. You saved me a fortune buddy and you deserve a beer!
No problem, glad it helped!
Exactly what I needed! My plans were to flush out the DEF tank at 200k miles with distilled water and you gave me the suggestions I needed. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Thank you, i had only drama with the connectors. Great instruction.😊
Glad it helped
Thanks for the recording. I went through the same issue - first error code (P205C) followed by the change of the heater "pot". Unfortunately, I had not put the O ring around the small exit pipe of the pump so it started to leak. I ended up removing everything one more time and so far, so good. I am now in the process of sending a letter to Bosch to ask for their fair share of the cost as it's completely not acceptable to see these parts falling after 5 years and less than 50 000 miles. If there is a lawyer interested in starting a class action as I suspect that thousands of people have been impacted by a similar issue - it's the right timing.
Hi,
No Problem! Good luck with the claim, let me know how you go. I read somewhere there are actually 3 heaters - one in the pot, one in the pump, and one in the line to the injector. The crazy thing is I live in a warm climate - so don't need any of them - but they still fail and stop the car (:-(
@@jackpwc01 Hi.... what error code did you have? I have P13DF on mine. but cant find really what it means. But from what i have found it has something to do with the heater.
@@whoops323232 Hi,
I didn't actually get a code; an independant garage told me they could not diagnose my NOx sensor fault as the heater was out of range. No idea if that was true, but I changed it anyway. In the end I also changes both sensors.
@@jackpwc01 you know the ohms values of the heater so you can put a resistor on the sensor wire not the thic ones to suppress the code? Just not on the power wires or the heat will burn the little resistor 😂
@@mmuller2402hey man, I would like to put a resistor and try to trick the module. But I didn't understand the resistor going to the thick wires of the heater element right ? Thank you
P20BD code is what has me searching for a guide to how to do this replacement . Your video is a godsend! Thank you. I hope everything comes apart as simply as you describe it. 😆
No Problem, hope it worked out for you on your car.
Thank you very much for that video. I wished I had watched it right from the beginning befor I was cracking the injection pumpe nippel .
Glad it helped!
Thanks a ton. This was massively helpful!
Glad it helped!
FYI, I just got the repair kit and in it are expected GOOD measurements for the Mercedes DEF Tank components. The heater should read 2-4.5 ohms between pins 1(White) and 2(Red) on connector A. The Temp sensor should 10-11Kohms at room temp, resistance will decrease as temp rises, between pin 3(small white) on Connector A and pin 1(grey)on connector B. The level sensor should read 4.2Kohms between the common pin 1(Grey) on connector B and each of the 3 sensors for low (Red), half (Blue) and full tank(Yellow). I hope that helps someone diagnose theirs. Phil
I will remeasure my heater and check the values. I didn't get any codes after changing it, but after that I did get my Nox sensors playing up hence why I checked all the EGR and then changed the sensors in the other videos.
@@jackpwc01 Funny you should mention that. I did the DEF heater job 2 days ago when the temp got just above freezing here in Canada. Not a fun job, but it did clear the codes. Did my first 200klm round trip on the highway yesterday. It did smoke for about the first 50k, but I figured it was just clearing out the exhaust, then it was good by the time I got to the destination. Half way home the light came on again and it started to smoke badly again. I pulled over and got out my scanner. It reported that "spray nozzle hose heater has a malfunction" and "NOx sensor downstream of the SCR catalytic converter is not operational". I cleared both of those codes and everything was back to normal (no smoke). The codes have not reappeared, so far. A Tesla is looking pretty good about now :-) I bought an Autel MaxiDiag Elite scanner about 4 years ago, when I had a Volvo, and it has saved me THOUSANDS in being able to diagnose, repair and reset my own codes and those of friends. I wouldn't be without one, especially with cars like these!
Thank you for the detailed information, i have the same problem and i tested the resistance between the pins and i get this.
Pin 1 and pin 2 of connecter A (3.3 ohm) ok.
Pin 3 on connecter A and Pin 1 gray on connecter B (180-260 ohm) NOT ok!!!!
Pin 3 small white on connecter A and the rest of (red , blue and yellow) pins is( 4.2 kohms) ok.
So i get very small resistance on the temperature sensor, can i put (10 kohm) resister to test the temp sensor?
Before i order new unit.
I live in very hot Clemente the temperature never get below( -5 C )
Philip T where did you buy the heater kit as I am in Canada too. Thx
Looks like one of the problems with this part is actually the thermostat for the adblue in the tank, as i live in warm climate and was never in temperatures were the heater was in use, i wonder if there is a way to wire a bypass for the temperature sensor like someone else mentioned on another video (wire a 10 kohm resistor)
Thank you for making this video. Well done
I broke pump plastic nipple when I was lowering the tank slowly. It fell off the jack. :( I ordered a new pump, I will be following ur video when I put the car back together
(:-(( good luck with the replacement, let me know how you go
Russian repair :::
20,037 views 20 Jan 2020
If you have a problem with the DEF temperature sensor, you can make a trick using the
temperature sensor for the aquarium with 10kOhm resistance. The sensor can be left outside.
The colours of the wires may vary on different models (usually they are the same).
The wires to the temperature sensor are thin. They are in the same connect with the heating wires (two thick wires)
Если у вас возникла проблема с датчиком температуры мочевины , можно сделать обманку с помощю
датчика температуры для аквариума с сопротевлением 10кОм. Датчик можно оставить с наружы.
Цвета проводов могут отличаться на разных моделях(как правило они одинаковые).провода на
датчик температуры тонкие .они в одном конекторе с проводами на подогрев (два толстых провода)
ruclips.net/video/LHeHBIlhz2w/видео.htmlsi=RPS4BLfHdTYUtsqU
Amazing video very very helpful Thank you 🙏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video- so well explained
*** IMPORTANT***
Hi everyone, their has been a re-call for all ML250 W166 ECU SOFTWARE. Im in melbourne australia and we had limited kms remaining, dashboard also said ADBLUE and NOX sensor. The car ECU also locks out anyone from making any changes so both NOX sensors will need replacing for free to be able to do software update.We almost spend several thousand dollars at private mechanic, lucky we rang mercedes. All the best
Just quoted repair on ML250 for a new tank, from a stealership in Melbourne $5000, take it or leave it.
Why would you need a new tank?
@@jackpwc01 because, maybe I look stupid, that is why they are stealerships. btw in 2008 Audi Q5 V6 diesel 60km service was going for approx $3500, of which $2500+ was for gearbox service, but they did provide coffee sweets and free car wash.
The dealer may have said that the heater had failed, as a reference to the whole assembly. It may have actually been your temp sensor that failed and not the heater.I don't know what resistance the sensor should read, if it can be measured. I got a "check engine" light on my 2014 ML350 (with 94000Kms) and using my scanner it told me that the DEF temp sensor "had a malfunction" code 205B22. I reset that a few times, but it would keep returning after a day or two. Then the code changed to 205C16 DEF temp sensor "has a short circuit to ground". That code would not reset. Car is now intermittently blowing a lot of white smoke with the corresponding ammonia smell of way too much DEF injected. Just ordered a replacement unit ($620CDN including tax and next day shipping by UPS) and am going to change it this weekend. Thanks again for your most valuable tips. Phil
Hi, Thanks for that. I did not have a good scanner when I was first looking into this, so the new DEF heater was diagnosed by an Indy shop. I don't know what code they could see. I never had any weird effects with the DEF dosing or white smoke. Luckily I used to work for Bosch so could access trade price for the replacement heater.
Thanks for the readings - I measured mine here: ruclips.net/video/olKMGcmmLU8/видео.html
Hi, did the unit fix the fault,have the same fault with mine ?
@@phillwilliams3399 Hi Phil, it was a pain to do, but it did fix the problem. I got the kit from a company called Xemodex in Toronto, Canada. Great kit. I then traded the diesel for a Tesla. That really fixed the problem 🙂
Thanks for the vids.
Do you have a one on Removing the Harmonic balancer on a MB w166. Thanks.
Hi, sorry no I don’t!
I have the om642 in a 2012 c350cdi I find best thing to do with these engines is remap egr delete swirl flap motor delete gut the dpf and delete it, car runs much better and reliably. Ad blue can also be deleted ( my car doesn’t have as blue but if it did I would have it deleted)
Hi,
I didn't want to delete it if I could fix it. Better to have the tune and emissions as per factory. Mine is running well now.
Hello , i just wantes to ask you , what is was the real fault , it was the pump or the heater ?
By the way very helpful video
I think the heater - I did not change the pump. But when I tested the heater the resistance values were correct - check out my other video. Ultimately changing the sensors fixed it for me.
@@jackpwc01 did you changed both nox sensors or just one , on the front or on the rear ?
What was the Symptoms from this Sensor? I think my car have a same problem. My motor is don’t rotating and display going out .How is your make it?
Hi I'm getting a P13DF09 fault, what was the actual problem with yours and what was the solution as the video makes it look like there wasnt a issue with your heater unit..?
So let me get this straight because if it can go wrong, I’m likely to make the same mistake: when you did the job the first time you didn’t put in the all o-ring at all or you doubled it not realizing it was already seated in the warmer?
Hi - the first one - the large O ring was already in there so I assumed they were both there, and did not open the plastic bag supplied with the 2 new rings.
jackpwc01 got it! So funny that I am literally at that step in my reassembly when this notification came in. My Chinese made heater didn’t have either one of the o-rings preinserted. Thx again for taking the time
Completed the job on my 2010 GL350. The job is way easier in that year since the ADDBLUE is in the trunk and after disconnecting two electrical connectors and one supply/return line it’s time to drop the tank. Easy in comparison to tour year.
Any idea how to reset the adblue?
Hello Jackpwc01, your video was perfect for me to view as my 2014 ML350 W166 (42,000 klms) has a code P205C Reductant tank temperature sensor circuit low. The Australian Mercedes dealership said its the heater unit in the AdBlue tank short to ground. What I'm interested in is your resistance reading of the new and old units where identical. When the new unit was fitted did the fault clear ??. My car is doing the same as Phillip T smoking and very strong ammonia smell. Mercedes wants $9K to replace the heater and 2 x Nox sensors, but could it simply be wiring dry joint or something. Appreciate any feedback from you or other in the group. Cheers from downunder
Hi Willie,
No problem, I will check my old unit tomorrow and take some measurements. Whereabouts are you in Australia?
Hey Jack, i'm in Brisbane (Sunny Queensland). Your video was brilliant but it also stopped me in my tracks as if I change the heater tank and it doesn't fix the fault then I've just wasted about $400 bucks, when it could be purely a wiring joint or a computer reset issue or software upgrade etc. Do you get my drift ?. I'm trying to eliminate all the others before going straight to the heater unit. I also read that this issue appears to be common with Benz's around the 2014 vintage and many Mercedes dealers were fixing them under warranty / goodwill. So far I've negotiated with Mercedes Brisbane and got a price of $3,600 down from $9,000, but all up it's only about $1,000 if buy all the parts...... so what do I do ??
@@willyg6270 Hi, I am in Melbourne, otherwise we could have had a look at your car with my scanner, and tried my old sensors. (I still have them) I made a new video ruclips.net/video/olKMGcmmLU8/видео.html so that you can see my readings on the old Heater unit. Interestingly they seem to be in-line with the comments from Philip T. That would mean that I didn't really need to change it. The system is really sensitive and no-one seems to be interested in fixing it without changing all parts first! I bought 'new' sensors from Germany - I think they were really second-hand but cleaned. They were 85EUR each, but around $250 with shipping. I fitted them myslelf, then paid the MB dealer to reset the SW. They charged $350 to do that.... So overall, it cost me maybe $1k to fix myself, and no codes so far, after a few thousand km.
Cheers Jack. Have watched your latest video. Very interesting with the resistance readings.
Willy g my mums 2012 ml250 w166 is same peoblem. Got the amber engine light on, keeps saying refill adblue and then going to limited kms. Blows white smoke.. from what iv gathered after watching heaps of videos it seems that the level sensor and the heater is stuffed. Ours says these codes
P2081 EGT SENSOR 1 BANK 1 , CIRCUIT INTERMITTED
P2BAD NOX EXCEEDENCE
P13DF
P13EF
Mechanic says it will cost over 5grand easily..
Hi jackpwc01, after all of the installation, did you top off the AdBlue fluid, ML350 2014? I initially got code P20EB for heater problem, then after replace the heat unit, the code P20E8 came up. Will topping off AdBlue help the P20E8 code removal?
Hi - yes I did, but I don't have codes like that. what scanner ate you using? I have the iCarsoft MB V2.0 and a Vident also.
@@jackpwc01 Thanks for replying my question. I used Autel519, which may not be a right one. The code P20E8 did not come back after top off the DEF fluid. But it seems the I/M readiness has some PM, HCC signals. I guess topping off helped.
@@gangzhao2256 P20E8 is pressure too low. Maybe you need a new pump also, or the pump pick up is blocked?
@@jackpwc01 Thanks for your comment, I did replace a new pump. Do you know the white color device at the 4:58 min. of your upper video location? It seems the DEF fluid was leaking a bit from the downward tube end there. And then after a while it stops dripping DEF before topping off.
@@gangzhao2256 hi how did you solve the issue " It seems the DEF fluid was leaking a bit from the downward tube end there"
Dude can you tell me where is the fuel pump located? Thx
Hi - you mean the diesel fuel pump? Sorry i have not looked yet, but there should be one in the tank and one on the engine. There may be an intermediate one also.
how much this Pump ?
Check my video I deleted my ml350 runs great, I'm just not sure the egr is still fonctionnal, I'd like to be sure it stop going back into the engine. Thanks if you can help
Hi all, not sure if anyone is still monitoring this video's comments but ran ito the issues of an initial code P205C, with alot of "online research" the most common component to change was the heater/pump A1664710775. Bought a replacement part from a mob in Melbourne guarantee better than OEM lifing and 12 months warranty. Since replacing the part and now filling my ADBLUE tank i have experienced the engine light still on, it is giving me codes P2BA9, P13DF (intermitent) and P13E4. Also counting down kms until can not restart engine. I noticed some white smoke from the exhaust and a sweet smell at the same time. Ive exhausted searching for an answer does anyone here know what I should be trying next?