I’ve used several of your videos to get our hut tub back to life and I’m extremely thankful. The detail and knowledge you share has been amazing. Do you have a Venmo or PayPal account? I’d really like to compensate you for your efforts and attention to details.
Wow, thanks! There's now a "thanks" on RUclips videos and you can do it there if you like? Not even sure if it works. Its the wrong word to use for giving money to someone. paypal.me/vippoolsandspas?country.x=CA&locale.x=en_US
Thank you for your video. I have a problem getting the extension board to work. All my pumps are working, all fuses are in working order. Currently Jets 1 is working with pump 1, jets 2 is working with pump 3, jets 3 button isn’t making the relay click noise. I think this could be dip switch settings. Could you post a video on the basics of dip switch settings? ( I have a MS1500 a balboa circuit board - PN 54493) Thanks so much
Hello again, I want to question something you have said in many of your videos When testing the element for 230vs on the element that is. You say that if you do not have 230vs ,change the element first. Here in Sweden, a new element costs 300 to 400 dollars. I have spoken to knowledgeable people here and they say ,by just buying a new element ,is not going to just suddenly give 230vs, It must be a circuit board issue, like a blown relay. So that is very costly and will not be the problem. Unless you know something the people here do not know ??So the question is,Why would a faulty element ,stop a current going through it ?? Does not make sense.
Sooo, our Sweetwater Palermo 220v spa just experienced a jolt to the main circuit board. Appears the heat element relay took the main hit (signs of charred solder connections on the circuit board, and burnt wire connectors) ?? Question >> Before I replace the circuit board, is there something I should check? And is there the likelihood of this same shorting/arcing happening again? I assumed there would be a circuit breaker trip vs burnt board > “puzzled?” Great video, very informative > thx so much! MC/Sacramento, CA
I have a 120v tub that started struggling to maintain the set temperature even though I had just installed a new heating element two months ago. I called a repairman and he said that his meter was showing 10 amps and that the element was fine. He offered no definitive solution other than to try adding new temp sensors which he is supposed to come and install next week. I'm no electrician but 10 amps is half of the 20 that you stated it should be. Now I'm wondering if my repairman is unknowledgeable or taking me for a ride.
Because you have a 120v hot tub, the amps are lower and the hot tub will take longer to heat up. Every time the jets are turned on, the heater will turn off. So, when your in the hot tub while the jets are going it will cool down fast.
I understand the heater turning off when the jets are on but the tub is struggling to maintain the set temperature when the tub is not in use. The pump will run for hours and never warm up enough to shut off. During warmer weather it will hold the 102 degrees but never hit 103 to shut the pump off. I'm guessing that the element is going bad? And thank you for your quick response! @@VIPPoolsandSpas
Hi, For my Balboa, I tested the voltage and the fuses and everything looks fine. But nothing is working! Do you have a way to check if the pumps are ok before replacing the board?
I’ve watched and followed a number of your videos and was hoping that you could help me out with an issue. I have a coast spa with a gecko spa pack S series. I have three flashing lights under the heat indicated on the control pad and have changed the filter, tried the bypass on the pressure switch with no luck. The heat light is on on the control pad, but so is the HL light on the board. Pumps 1 and 2 are running (labeled 240v) but the three lights won’t go away. I checked the voltage coming into the pac and only got 120v between the black and red wires, no reading (0)to the actual heater. Last thing is that the hot tube won’t auto turn on. I can only start the pumps manually. They will run for about an hour then will shut off. It appears that the heater isn’t coming on. Any thoughts?
You have many issues and that points to a board issue. BUT. You say you have only 120V at the red and black? Is the Hot tub a 240v tub? If it is 240v and you're only getting 120v, then its on the house side (Breaker). How many pumps? Power Pumps? and do you have a smaller circ pump?
Have a 2012 MasterSpa with Balboa pack. Controls light up, priming is indicated but no pump activity at all from either pump, error code is HFL. Heats up fine just no circulation. Both pumps failed at the same time - does this likely indicate the board is the issue? All fuses tested. Any suggestions appreciated, our local dealer closed up and closest tech is four hours away.
Turn power off, unplug the topside controls from the board, then turn back on. What does it do (remember, nothing will be on the screen) Any click noise(s)? Pump one should turn on.
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
The clicking on then off when you go up or down with the heat is normal. Heating only to around 84f, lol means it's on economy mode or sensor issue. The heat from the pump running is why it is that temp. Maybe. Use an external temperature device to test the water temp.
Hi there, I have an almost identical-looking balboa system, the element looks exactly the same. The other day we had the electricity go off 3 times in 3 days, turns out an electrical lead laying in water. Now I have discovered that the hot tub heating was going down from 31 to 20 degrees where it has stayed. here in Sweden, it is 3 plus degrees at moment. I have checked all fuses and the main one on the top left. All ok. They should all be on 0 reading. The big fuse was 0,001. When l checked it .I checked the heating element with the multimeter, with electricity on, the reading was 0, not 220-240v. The Pump is running normally by the way. I do not know what has happened but my suspicion is the electrical circuit breaker , that tripped 3 times. the other day has caused something to happen. Why would this cause the element to stop working? Do I need a new element ,? is there any relays that have something to fail with the heating element.? No-fault codes on the top screen, all look normal.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas well if there is no voltage to the element,can you explain why putting a new element,gives it voltage? What in the element fails to show voltage?
@@swedishkev you said something about it tripping 3 times and the you said it had no volts at the element. I'm pretty sure it's the element. If you tested 240v at the element and no heat I would ask you to rest the amps. Change the element because its the cheaper way of making sure.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Sorry, I thought you would probably get a bit confused about the breaker thing. The breaker was nothing to do with the hot tub. It was an extension lead sitting out in a puddle, the breaker was inside the house that caused all electricity to go off. This happened for 3 nights before I found the problem. Obviously, this caused the hot tub to also go off 3 times. I am convinced this caused something to happen to the circuit board, just must of, too coincidental. Now I can order a new element and put it in no problem.But if l have no 220v going to the element i have now ,how is a new element going to suddenly show 220vs this is what l dont get. Checking amps obviously ,there is none if there is no 220v going to element. I don't understand this amps thing anyway and do not have a amp meter. only a multimeter. The relays look ok, but hard to tell without taking the circuit board out and looking for burn at the back. It is snowing here ,so this job is become more problematic. Scared about pipes freezing if l empty the water etc. It is staying on 19 degrees. Is this something built into the system as a safeguard perhaps ? Changing element is very easy, if it is a relay, then I don't know if it can stay like this until the spring time.
Great videos! I need help. I have an Arctic Spa with an ECO PAK and I have a no-heat situation. If I connect the leads for the heater to the motherboard, I get no volts, but if I disconnect the leads, I get 240 volts on the board connectors! I actually do get 120V on each side of the heater, but when I touch both leads, 0 volts. What could possibly cause this? Help :-)
@@wreckdhunter4058 check the volts coming into the tub. Are all pumps working as normal? How is the pressure switch on that heat tube? Just trying to get a feel on what you see and hear.
I am having issues with my hot tub. We bought used one we we are learning as we go. I have a video they I could like to send to you to give me your opinion. What’s your email to send you the video?
The video will be to long. I havent set anything else up for this, so. The best thing to do is put the video on youtube and send me the link. You can always delete the video after.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas just uploaded. The problem we have: we turn the Hot tub on, it run for about a minute and shuts off and give us the code as you can see in the video (we checked the manual but we cannot find the code). We hear the click (rele) on and off one in a while. ruclips.net/video/KR6nv-_Zq3A/видео.html
saw your video. Is it heating? Not sure what that noise was. Maybe something in the lines where the pump is (front of it). Also, your pump seal looks to be leaking or was leaking (white stuff on the wethead)
if that loud noise in the video is the "click" your hearing, that would be a bad relay. If your in the Blue Mountain area, just look up our name and call us for a service call. Hard to say what that is without testing a few things. That spa pack is hard to test because of where the element leads are and the pressure switch location.
Testing the amps and volts will tell you if things are working or not.
I’ve used several of your videos to get our hut tub back to life and I’m extremely thankful. The detail and knowledge you share has been amazing. Do you have a Venmo or PayPal account? I’d really like to compensate you for your efforts and attention to details.
Wow, thanks! There's now a "thanks" on RUclips videos and you can do it there if you like? Not even sure if it works. Its the wrong word to use for giving money to someone. paypal.me/vippoolsandspas?country.x=CA&locale.x=en_US
Thank you for your video.
I have a problem getting the extension board to work. All my pumps are working, all fuses are in working order. Currently Jets 1 is working with pump 1, jets 2 is working with pump 3, jets 3 button isn’t making the relay click noise. I think this could be dip switch settings. Could you post a video on the basics of dip switch settings? ( I have a MS1500 a balboa circuit board - PN 54493)
Thanks so much
There's so many combinations when it comes to the dips switches. Best to send a pic of the board and dipswitch to info@vippools.ca
Hello again, I want to question something you have said in many of your videos When testing the element for 230vs on the element that is. You say that if you do not have 230vs ,change the element first. Here in Sweden, a new element costs 300 to 400 dollars. I have spoken to knowledgeable people here and they say ,by just buying a new element ,is not going to just suddenly give 230vs, It must be a circuit board issue, like a blown relay. So that is very costly and will not be the problem. Unless you know something the people here do not know ??So the question is,Why would a faulty element ,stop a current going through it ?? Does not make sense.
Sooo, our Sweetwater Palermo 220v spa just experienced a jolt to the main circuit board. Appears the heat element relay took the main hit (signs of charred solder connections on the circuit board, and burnt wire connectors) ??
Question >> Before I replace the circuit board, is there something I should check? And is there the likelihood of this same shorting/arcing happening again? I assumed there would be a circuit breaker trip vs burnt board > “puzzled?”
Great video, very informative > thx so much!
MC/Sacramento, CA
Replace the board and nothing to worry about. Sounds like the relay stuck closed and burnt out. 1 in a million if it happens again.
I have a 120v tub that started struggling to maintain the set temperature even though I had just installed a new heating element two months ago. I called a repairman and he said that his meter was showing 10 amps and that the element was fine. He offered no definitive solution other than to try adding new temp sensors which he is supposed to come and install next week. I'm no electrician but 10 amps is half of the 20 that you stated it should be. Now I'm wondering if my repairman is unknowledgeable or taking me for a ride.
Because you have a 120v hot tub, the amps are lower and the hot tub will take longer to heat up. Every time the jets are turned on, the heater will turn off. So, when your in the hot tub while the jets are going it will cool down fast.
I understand the heater turning off when the jets are on but the tub is struggling to maintain the set temperature when the tub is not in use. The pump will run for hours and never warm up enough to shut off. During warmer weather it will hold the 102 degrees but never hit 103 to shut the pump off. I'm guessing that the element is going bad? And thank you for your quick response! @@VIPPoolsandSpas
@@Irishman1776 Might be a sensor issue. Hard to say what it is.
Hi,
For my Balboa,
I tested the voltage and the fuses and everything looks fine.
But nothing is working!
Do you have a way to check if the pumps are ok before replacing the board?
What's not working and how many pumps not working?
I’ve watched and followed a number of your videos and was hoping that you could help me out with an issue. I have a coast spa with a gecko spa pack S series. I have three flashing lights under the heat indicated on the control pad and have changed the filter, tried the bypass on the pressure switch with no luck. The heat light is on on the control pad, but so is the HL light on the board. Pumps 1 and 2 are running (labeled 240v) but the three lights won’t go away. I checked the voltage coming into the pac and only got 120v between the black and red wires, no reading (0)to the actual heater. Last thing is that the hot tube won’t auto turn on. I can only start the pumps manually. They will run for about an hour then will shut off. It appears that the heater isn’t coming on. Any thoughts?
You have many issues and that points to a board issue. BUT. You say you have only 120V at the red and black? Is the Hot tub a 240v tub? If it is 240v and you're only getting 120v, then its on the house side (Breaker). How many pumps? Power Pumps? and do you have a smaller circ pump?
Have a 2012 MasterSpa with Balboa pack. Controls light up, priming is indicated but no pump activity at all from either pump, error code is HFL. Heats up fine just no circulation. Both pumps failed at the same time - does this likely indicate the board is the issue? All fuses tested. Any suggestions appreciated, our local dealer closed up and closest tech is four hours away.
Send a picture of the spa pack and the topside to info@vippools.ca
Turn power off, unplug the topside controls from the board, then turn back on. What does it do (remember, nothing will be on the screen) Any click noise(s)? Pump one should turn on.
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
The clicking on then off when you go up or down with the heat is normal. Heating only to around 84f, lol means it's on economy mode or sensor issue. The heat from the pump running is why it is that temp. Maybe. Use an external temperature device to test the water temp.
Hi there, I have an almost identical-looking balboa system, the element looks exactly the same. The other day we had the electricity go off 3 times in 3 days, turns out an electrical lead laying in water. Now I have discovered that the hot tub heating was going down from 31 to 20 degrees where it has stayed. here in Sweden, it is 3 plus degrees at moment. I have checked all fuses and the main one on the top left. All ok. They should all be on 0 reading. The big fuse was 0,001. When l checked it .I checked the heating element with the multimeter, with electricity on, the reading was 0, not 220-240v. The Pump is running normally by the way. I do not know what has happened but my suspicion is the electrical circuit breaker , that tripped 3 times. the other day has caused something to happen. Why would this cause the element to stop working? Do I need a new element ,? is there any relays that have something to fail with the heating element.? No-fault codes on the top screen, all look normal.
Try replacing the element first.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas well if there is no voltage to the element,can you explain why putting a new element,gives it voltage? What in the element fails to show voltage?
@@swedishkev you said something about it tripping 3 times and the you said it had no volts at the element. I'm pretty sure it's the element. If you tested 240v at the element and no heat I would ask you to rest the amps. Change the element because its the cheaper way of making sure.
And. No fuses will blow because of a faulty heater element. Element will trip the breaker.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Sorry, I thought you would probably get a bit confused about the breaker thing. The breaker was nothing to do with the hot tub. It was an extension lead sitting out in a puddle, the breaker was inside the house that caused all electricity to go off. This happened for 3 nights before I found the problem. Obviously, this caused the hot tub to also go off 3 times. I am convinced this caused something to happen to the circuit board, just must of, too coincidental. Now I can order a new element and put it in no problem.But if l have no 220v going to the element i have now ,how is a new element going to suddenly show 220vs this is what l dont get. Checking amps obviously ,there is none if there is no 220v going to element. I don't understand this amps thing anyway and do not have a amp meter. only a multimeter. The relays look ok, but hard to tell without taking the circuit board out and looking for burn at the back. It is snowing here ,so this job is become more problematic. Scared about pipes freezing if l empty the water etc. It is staying on 19 degrees. Is this something built into the system as a safeguard perhaps ? Changing element is very easy, if it is a relay, then I don't know if it can stay like this until the spring time.
Great videos! I need help. I have an Arctic Spa with an ECO PAK and I have a no-heat situation. If I connect the leads for the heater to the motherboard, I get no volts, but if I disconnect the leads, I get 240 volts on the board connectors! I actually do get 120V on each side of the heater, but when I touch both leads, 0 volts. What could possibly cause this? Help :-)
Change the heater element.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas heater element changed with new one. Still exactly the same! Any suggestions on next steps would be appreciated.
@@wreckdhunter4058 any little lights on the circuit board?
@@wreckdhunter4058 check the volts coming into the tub. Are all pumps working as normal? How is the pressure switch on that heat tube? Just trying to get a feel on what you see and hear.
I am having issues with my hot tub. We bought used one we we are learning as we go. I have a video they I could like to send to you to give me your opinion. What’s your email to send you the video?
The video will be to long. I havent set anything else up for this, so. The best thing to do is put the video on youtube and send me the link. You can always delete the video after.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas just uploaded.
The problem we have: we turn the Hot tub on, it run for about a minute and shuts off and give us the code as you can see in the video (we checked the manual but we cannot find the code).
We hear the click (rele) on and off one in a while.
ruclips.net/video/KR6nv-_Zq3A/видео.html
saw your video. Is it heating? Not sure what that noise was. Maybe something in the lines where the pump is (front of it). Also, your pump seal looks to be leaking or was leaking (white stuff on the wethead)
if that loud noise in the video is the "click" your hearing, that would be a bad relay. If your in the Blue Mountain area, just look up our name and call us for a service call. Hard to say what that is without testing a few things. That spa pack is hard to test because of where the element leads are and the pressure switch location.