I love your old school approach, I worked with a block layer who was approaching his late 70 s and still set his own scaffold ,mixed his own mud,carried his own block. He stopped for 15 min lunch out of his metal lunch pail and thermos and smoked a lucky strike cigarette ,back to work.We framed for him on houses and he Liked our work because we were 2 and 3 man crew,hand nailed everything crowned the wall studds etc.His daughters could lay out and build footers ,lay block etc because they helped their dad growing up! They were both extremely pretty ladies who made good lives for themselves in business world , but their roots and work ethic were bred in masonry !Thanks for the great video, you remind me so much of the men I worked alongside !
Mike, As always, I love watching and learning from your mastery and down to earth style. When we moved into our 1950's era house with detached garage, both structures had been very neglected. The garage is built out of 8" block (CMU). The side door was wooden and severely disintegrated so I decided to replace it with a steel door. I could not find any local contractor who would quote me. I guess they were all either too busy with big jobs or something. One guy actually told me he wasn't interested because the job was too small and that was only after I called him a second time. BTW, I live in Glassboro NJ. At this point I decided I was going to have to do it. The lintel over the existing door was turned the wrong way. The 7 5/8" side was laying flat. I couldn't believe that anybody in the masonry trade would do this. So I purchased two precast lintels and saw cut the block above the door and lintel to accommodate these. The old lintel came out and the two new ones went in the correct way. I had no previous experience doing this and no videos or books to guide me. I worked alone and the job has held up in the 25 years since I did it. The door operates flawlessly. I attribute my abilities to God who gave me the health and common sense in the first place. Bless you Mike. Be healthy.
Mike Hadock, Thanks for sharing your knowledge I can't began to express how you saved me from so many mistakes and time and money. God bless you and all that you do. Be blessed
Mike, I commented on one of your previous video's on the quality of your craftsmanship and how much I enjoy learning from someone as skilled as you are. But I must take yet another moment to let you know how much I personally appreciate you sharing all the years of your knowledge and skill here on RUclips. You do excellent work! If I lived anywhere close to you, I'd apply for a job working with you in a New York minute. You rock man!!! Keep up the great work and the awesome video's.
I appreciate it, but I do have to admit most of it is what I learned from working with other masons and builders, I guess you could say I am just filming it and passing it on. thanks again. mike
Now that's what I call a real man's WORK >>> No BS electric tools or anything, very great showcase of what it used to be in the old times. When I saw that small hammer for breaking concrete, I knew I'm watching real man doing a simple old school work. We do this differently, so we pour the substance, cement or whatever used, directly in a specially made wooden box that contains the material not to fall and also makes a great shape of the lentil, but before we pour it, we put rebars evenly separated within the box, ( not a box, it is a collection of wood material connected to each other by wood screws and other supporting tools), and then we pour it directly in the very place we want the lentil to support, and wait, just like you did, so that we don't have to carry them and most importantly, so that the lentil is really connected to the wall, because the idea is like a footing, but for small openings, and above the ground...basically.
I am planning to build my own house and greatly appreciate this video. Showing how to do each one is very valuable information. Thanks so much. I upvoted.
Awesome approach to sharing your knowledge on the subject. You are very knowledgeable and your teaching style draws one in, thereby making one want to learn more. I have been watching your video's over the past few days and I'm very impressed and have learned quite a bit. I will continue to watch many more if not all in the near future. Please keep up the great work!As someone has already pointed out and I'm sure many others agree, as well as myself you should have your own show!
Even though I'm in the U.K., and our building regulations (think you call it building code in the USA) here wouldn't allow most of what you show in this video, I still find it really interesting to see all the different approaches to building lintels. Today, here in the U.K. at least, the government wants to nanny everyone, regardless or competence. Great video Mike. Cheers
Graham North Thanks, years ago there was no building codes, inspectors , etc, they put a lot of guys out of business and few masonry contractors have employees anymore, one of the reasons I did these videos is to leave behind the old school methods, the government wants to nanny everyone here also. just the way things are going, thanks mike
There's so much, "knowing how your mud works here" involved in assembling the lentils. Wetting your block clean, really makes all the difference here. The rebar, the head joints instead of butt jointing it... The numerous passes with the rubber mallet, to eliminate voids. I love watching you work, & being a mason myself, daily I get to apply little things I'll see you doing oy
An interesting and informative video. My Dad knew all this stuff. Could build a house from bottom to top, foundation, block, , wood subfloor, trusses, electric, plumbing. He was a union carpenter. But he has passed on now, so I loved watching your video. Thanks, God bless.
Yes Sir, Real good show on how to make and install a lintel... I am about to finish the work I told you about, but I had some problems in trying to finish, not building problems, health ones, go figure...anyhow need a few more days to be able to get back on the job, as always thks for the info, You know what you are doing and I want to know, so will let you know when I am all done...Til then keep them coming Mike...JRC
I guarantee Im never going to build a lintel. Im an electrician. But I watched another video you made and I just got stuck because you sound so familiar. Im from Chicago and live in Utah for 25 years now, they talk funny out here . lol thanks
Hi Mike, Your DIY on making lintels is excellent. I have to make several lintels. I most likely will go with the angle iron. You don't give a thickness of the angle Iron, 1/4 sounds good?. Can you also use brick with the angle iron for the lintels? I have to insert the lintels like in this video. thank you in advance.
Mike...I just want to say how much I have enjoyed binge watching all of your video's. You an extremely talented guy....from automotive work to playing musical instruments and singing in your band. Thank yo so much. I really wish you were on TV....who knows?That could get you married? lol
i've always wonder how can i make one since its so simple. instead going out of the city traveling 3 cities over in the wood to a cement place to buy a couple.. i thought they weight a ton until i see u lift it up. i see a guy uses a tractor to lift it. its a bit longer but shouldn't be that heavy
i was also surprised there was no temporary support. I've put in wood headers, but that's a different animal i guess. I'm thinking about opening up a chimney that used to be a coal burner from the basement and installing a wood stove or just a normal fireplace. The entire lintel would need to be able to take heat. if It's an old stone chimney, could i cut a spot for a lintel and put one in to support and then break out the lower portion and then the rest of the rock inside?
depends om the load above it is usually constructed with a 3.000 PSI concrete mix which would be 3 parts sand & 1 part portland by volume. Coarser sand will yield higher strength as their will be less surface are of the sand to be covered by the portland.
Hi Mike, I need to install a lentil over my 10 ft garage door. It's a block building, and someone put a 4x4 with shims over it where a lentil used to be. If I go with the angle iron approach, do I need to secure the angle iron to anything and full it solid like in your steel beams video? Or just cement everything when I lay the block over it like in this video? Thanks, Dean.
Hi Dean, that is structural and I can't comment on it, I only show what I did in certain situations, when it is structural like that it's all about engineering, inspectors and liability, I would ask some of the locals, I hope it helps, mike
Hi Mike, thanks for great video. I have a home with a cinder block basement, that I would like to install a door. I would like to enlarge the window opening to do this. My question is that the window opening has no blocks over it. How do I put a lintel in? Is this a structural issue if the wall doesn't have any blocks from floor to ceiling which it would after the door is put in? The window opening is about 32 inches. Thanks
Hi Allen, it's a hard question to answer because every situation is different, I did a video on how I cut out brick and block doorway. Mike haduck and the others are basement window replacement, I hope it helps mike
Dying trade ,and about a few more years with this silica safety b.s going to be rough on masonry companies specially ones that do all commercial work .Nice video
Its perfect. I worked as a "mud" man on block crews but never had the confidence to go further. Thanks for the encouragement. Only wish I could upload a pic for you!
A nice decorative lintel could be made by using two cantilevers each projecting one third of the aperture from either side and these locked by the other bricks , then i the faces in between the two cantilevers would be slanted and a keystone or a crown inserted in between. So many ways to bridge a gap!
Hi marde, there's no county inspectors here and if there was you wouldn't get a inspection report in writing, because most of them only take money and haven't a clue about what they are looking at, this is what I see in Pennsylvania, thanks Mike
I have been watching your videos. Very instructional and clear. My only additional issue is that my beams are sitting on the blocks that I want to cut to make a doorway. Do I do the same thing you did or I have to take some additional steps? Thanks
Hi Manos, I would ask some of the locals, this video there was only a few courses of block above it, nothing that was too heavy or seriously supporting anything, thanks Mike
Hi west, to make the concrete lentil I used a concrete mix, portland ,sand and gravel, no motar, or s mortar, the premix store bought is ok, my opinion, thanks Mike
Great Vid Mike, Thanks ! One question. I would think if the bending load on the lintel is pressing down in the middle ( like a bridge ), you would want the rebar inside to droop like the cables of a suspension bridge . With the crown up, the rebar would be in compression as the center is pushed down, and I would think you would want it to be in tension. The crown up rebar would be trying to push the blocks apart when under load instead of trying to pull them together. I believe prestressed concrete beams have the cables inside drooping down away from the "Up" side>
It may be and of course it makes sense, I have to go with the arch idea though for little spans over windows and doors. especially when I use two rebar- up and below, just because I built a lot of them in stone,,I been over a lot of those bridges and I am amazed for sure, those bridges would make a good video and you make a good point, thought of it myself but I got to stick with old school in this case,. thanks mike
the way I see this rob is like a flatbed truck trailer...they are made welded with an upward arched surface...when the load is placed on the deck it flexes down and travels flat.
@@pensive69 So that's called camber. The trucks are designed based on their max payload. An engineer then checks what the deflection would be if you apply a percentage of that maximum (i use 60-75% in the structural world). Whatever that deflection is, you invert it and give it an upward arc so that when it's loaded it settles down closer to flat. It has very little to do with strength.
Would you be able to answer a question for me. The structure I want to open up on the house is block construction from the 40's. I'm concerned that lentils won't be enough because I don't know the footers are right, the house is going down hill in one corner. Is there a way to open op the block and make a 10 foot opening, add a lentil and fix the footer? Thanks anyone so much!
Hi Nancy, it sounds like you might be using steel or wood if it is a one story house, I would run it by some of your local contractors and get some opinions, thanks, mike
hey how can i connect an existing lintel to the cement block next to it.. .cant believe id have to remover the whole header just to go 8 inches to the left to next block.. any ideas..
Hi Mike. I'm a big fan and subscriber of your channel. I am about to build a block structure with a lintel that will span a 7 ft opening. I will only have one course of block above the lintel. I really like your angle iron approach. Do you think that would work for such a wide opening? What size angle iron would you recommend? Many thanks!
Mike, Would you have a brand or part number for the blade you are using to cut the blocks? I have a 7" angle grinder and I can't seem to find a blade locally. I did a Google search but there is a dizzying amount to pick from. I'd like to know I'm getting something that works. Thanks!!! Mike
How bought this!! I'm installing a small 50" wide sliding door in my mastered room...cut in to the block to add rebar.to lengthing lintel...what cha tink?
I bought a monster bauer hammer chizzle...16 pounds of force.cut sideways they little and next over solid block..(happened to be solid)..going to lay 13 inch rebar in slot then cement it in
Hi Jo, that only sounds like a inch, I don't see why not, we have done it lots of times, sometimes we would use angle irons etc, everything depends on the situation, I would ask someone in your area to look at it, Mike
It is a second time, I see you, using an angle bar to build a crossbar. Don’t you use I-bars? Love the way, you show how to make crossbar out of blocks. Does it work with bricks? When I was a kid, I saw my father putting I-bars over every wall opening. Didn’t matter, if it was loaded wall or not. Where I live now, the old-school insists on using I-bars every time, if the crossbar has to be replaced. Especially, if the wall has cracks.
Tuff as nails partner, and I agree with last comment. You could twist a man up like a pretzel throwing that mud and block everyday like you obviously have.
+BodhisattvaIdeal I appreciate it but with all the rules and regs you got to have the local guys who know how to navigate through them., just the way it is anymore, thanks mike
great Video Mike , learned something new again from a fellow Mrs. T's Pierogie lover. Just wondering though if those dock shoes your wearin are steel tips ;-)
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I love your old school approach, I worked with a block layer who was approaching his late 70 s and still set his own scaffold ,mixed his own mud,carried his own block. He stopped for 15 min lunch out of his metal lunch pail and thermos and smoked a lucky strike cigarette ,back to work.We framed for him on houses and he Liked our work because we were 2 and 3 man crew,hand nailed everything crowned the wall studds etc.His daughters could lay out and build footers ,lay block etc because they helped their dad growing up! They were both extremely pretty ladies who made good lives for themselves in business world , but their roots and work ethic were bred in masonry !Thanks for the great video, you remind me so much of the men I worked alongside !
Thanks Greg, I appreciate the story, mike
I learned a lot from this video, Mike! That’s a simple way to make a lintel in the old school way and it makes a lot of sense.
Thanks again Bill, Mike
Mike, As always, I love watching and learning from your mastery and down to earth style. When we moved into our 1950's era house with detached garage, both structures had been very neglected. The garage is built out of 8" block (CMU). The side door was wooden and severely disintegrated so I decided to replace it with a steel door. I could not find any local contractor who would quote me. I guess they were all either too busy with big jobs or something. One guy actually told me he wasn't interested because the job was too small and that was only after I called him a second time. BTW, I live in Glassboro NJ. At this point I decided I was going to have to do it. The lintel over the existing door was turned the wrong way. The 7 5/8" side was laying flat. I couldn't believe that anybody in the masonry trade would do this. So I purchased two precast lintels and saw cut the block above the door and lintel to accommodate these. The old lintel came out and the two new ones went in the correct way. I had no previous experience doing this and no videos or books to guide me. I worked alone and the job has held up in the 25 years since I did it. The door operates flawlessly. I attribute my abilities to God who gave me the health and common sense in the first place. Bless you Mike. Be healthy.
I love watching your work. Thanks for explaining your thought process along the way instead of just saying what is happening.
+David Norris I appreciate that thought and will keep it in mind, thanks mike
Really helpful. No time wasting and a pleasure to watch. Thank you.
Thanks Mike, Mike
Mike Hadock, Thanks for sharing your knowledge I can't began to express how you saved me from so many mistakes and time and money. God bless you and all that you do. Be blessed
+Charles Martin Thanks, I am just passing along what I learned from the old timers, God bless also, mike
Love watching you work! You could have your own show.
Very practical. Really like your no nonsense approach. Thanks. Glen.
+Glen GS Tongs I appreciate it, thanks mike
Mike, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge, you are a great teacher. I subscribed!
Thanks Nathan, Mike
This channel is flippin GREAT.
Thanks, mike
Mike,
I commented on one of your previous video's on the quality of your craftsmanship and how much I enjoy learning from someone as skilled as you are. But I must take yet another moment to let you know how much I personally appreciate you sharing all the years of your knowledge and skill here on RUclips. You do excellent work! If I lived anywhere close to you, I'd apply for a job working with you in a New York minute. You rock man!!! Keep up the great work and the awesome video's.
I appreciate it, but I do have to admit most of it is what I learned from working with other masons and builders, I guess you could say I am just filming it and passing it on. thanks again. mike
Now that's what I call a real man's WORK >>> No BS electric tools or anything, very great showcase of what it used to be in the old times.
When I saw that small hammer for breaking concrete, I knew I'm watching real man doing a simple old school work.
We do this differently, so we pour the substance, cement or whatever used, directly in a specially made wooden box that contains the material not to fall and also makes a great shape of the lentil, but before we pour it, we put rebars evenly separated within the box, ( not a box, it is a collection of wood material connected to each other by wood screws and other supporting tools), and then we pour it directly in the very place we want the lentil to support, and wait, just like you did, so that we don't have to carry them and most importantly, so that the lentil is really connected to the wall, because the idea is like a footing, but for small openings, and above the ground...basically.
Thanks, mike
I am planning to build my own house and greatly appreciate this video. Showing how to do each one is very valuable information. Thanks so much. I upvoted.
Thanks , Mike
Awesome approach to sharing your knowledge on the subject. You are very knowledgeable and your teaching style draws one in, thereby making one want to learn more. I have been watching your video's over the past few days and I'm very impressed and have learned quite a bit. I will continue to watch many more if not all in the near future. Please keep up the great work!As someone has already pointed out and I'm sure many others agree, as well as myself you should have your own show!
Hi Woody, I appreciate it. just passing along what the old timers taught me, again thanks mike
Agreed. Videos like this are hard to find. This is great stuff. Masons don't typically take kindly to teachin folks about nothin.
Even though I'm in the U.K., and our building regulations (think you call it building code in the USA) here wouldn't allow most of what you show in this video, I still find it really interesting to see all the different approaches to building lintels.
Today, here in the U.K. at least, the government wants to nanny everyone, regardless or competence.
Great video Mike.
Cheers
Graham North Thanks, years ago there was no building codes, inspectors , etc, they put a lot of guys out of business and few masonry contractors have employees anymore, one of the reasons I did these videos is to leave behind the old school methods, the government wants to nanny everyone here also. just the way things are going, thanks mike
This was the most helpful explanation on how to build a lentil
Thanks hemilove, mike
Putting aside the content the video explaitons and views of examples as you go along is excellently done. With the content the video is fantastic.
Thanks David, mike
There's so much, "knowing how your mud works here" involved in assembling the lentils. Wetting your block clean, really makes all the difference here. The rebar, the head joints instead of butt jointing it... The numerous passes with the rubber mallet, to eliminate voids. I love watching you work, & being a mason myself, daily I get to apply little things I'll see you doing oy
I appreciate hearing from the pros, it keeps me going, thanks mike
An interesting and informative video. My Dad knew all this stuff. Could build a house from bottom to top, foundation, block, , wood subfloor, trusses, electric, plumbing. He was a union carpenter. But he has passed on now, so I loved watching your video. Thanks, God bless.
Hi Susan , In my early days everyone knew this stuff, I am just passing along what I learned from them. God bess also, thanks mike
These days it's basically called Architectural Technology/ Building Engineering.. Don't think carpenters learn all that stuff anymore?
And I do need to add also that the videos are great to watch, makes it all look so simple! My lecturers make it all impossible to learn...
to my point, a nice and instructive video from a nice knowledgeable and experienced man at last...
+Drug Free Youth Music Project I appreciate it. thanks mike
Third secure easy way is to make a wooden mould fill it with concrete four steel bars and it's ok!
Thank you Mike! Now I know what to do tomorrow:) Simple, make sense, ... shows the principle so one can apply it to their own project.
Thanks Barbora, I am gald if it helps, mike
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing the method of bending the rebar before making a lentil old school.
It is the way I learned from the old timers, so I am just passing it along, thanks mike
Yes Sir, Real good show on how to make and install a lintel... I am about to finish the work I told you about, but I had some problems in trying to finish, not building problems, health ones, go figure...anyhow need a few more days to be able to get back on the job, as always thks for the info, You know what you are doing and I want to know, so will let you know when I am all done...Til then keep them coming Mike...JRC
+joirjoja1 thanks JRC, I hope you get better. Mike
I always enjoy the humor you add....
I always wonder if he folks are getting it. thanks mike
Your a proper old-school mason, thanks Mike, Aussie old-school Mick from the Philippines... Not many regulations here btw. Cheers Champ :))
Thanks Mick, Mike
Mike, you’re the man, sir! I love the enthusiasm you have
Thanks Jonatas, mike
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise. Used your old school techniques to build them. Thanks again....Bill
thanks Bill, I appreciate it. mike
Putting rebars in blocks is just genius. Simple, easy, practical. I'll definitely use it.
Thanks Emre, Mike
I guarantee Im never going to build a lintel. Im an electrician. But I watched another video you made and I just got stuck because you sound so familiar. Im from Chicago and live in Utah for 25 years now, they talk funny out here . lol thanks
Hi Mike, Your DIY on making lintels is excellent. I have to make several lintels. I most likely will go with the angle iron. You don't give a thickness of the angle Iron, 1/4 sounds good?. Can you also use brick with the angle iron for the lintels? I have to insert the lintels like in this video. thank you in advance.
Hi geno, I can't say every situation is different, I would ask some of the locals, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks Mike, can you tell me if they make concrete 7 1/2 high x 3 3/4" wide lintel? My place was built back in the '60s.
I figured it out by going to a building materials web site, 6" block are sized at 7 5/8". But you know this already.
Could you chase a grove in a wall and install rebar, prior to cutting a door opening in a pre-existing non-loadbearing wall?
Hi, I can't say unless I was there to see it, thanks Mike
Mr
Mike you are man
Thanks for all the great videos!
Very many Thanks Mike. That's the perfect solution for my particular awkward project, and I'm sure many other peoples' too.
Thanks, Mike
Thank you for this video EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR.
Thanks Denise, Mike
Mike can you describe , how to install 2 lintels in a block wall to make an outside entranceway into my basement
Hi Joel, I did a video called "block work" part 7, lentils and steel beams, that might help, thanks mike
Mike...I just want to say how much I have enjoyed binge watching all of your video's. You an extremely talented guy....from automotive work to playing musical instruments and singing in your band. Thank yo so much. I really wish you were on TV....who knows?That could get you married? lol
Hi John, If I got any talent it is God givin, and yep I got to find a future x wife, lol, thanks mike
Mike Haduck I've had two x's Mike, I'm done. Actually, I like it better that way...lol
You tossed that lintel up above the door like it wasn't heavy!
This is what I thought. I grunted when he was lifting it.
exactly....
That’s because he’s a mason! 💪🏼
Mike McMacho
The angle iron method looks great
thanks, I still use it a lot. mike
i've always wonder how can i make one since its so simple. instead going out of the city traveling 3 cities over in the wood to a cement place to buy a couple.. i thought they weight a ton until i see u lift it up. i see a guy uses a tractor to lift it. its a bit longer but shouldn't be that heavy
Thanks T, Mike
i was also surprised there was no temporary support. I've put in wood headers, but that's a different animal i guess. I'm thinking about opening up a chimney that used to be a coal burner from the basement and installing a wood stove or just a normal fireplace. The entire lintel would need to be able to take heat. if It's an old stone chimney, could i cut a spot for a lintel and put one in to support and then break out the lower portion and then the rest of the rock inside?
How beautiful! How useful! What an art!
Thanks Daniela, mike
Awesome tips thanks Mike I learned a lot,
Thanks Sergio, Mike
Mike, ide like to ask you. can a cinder lintel with bar as you built it, be filled with type S mortar/stucco mix?
I only use portland and sand (concrete mix) old school, for myself I do not trust anything else, my opinion thanks mike.
depends om the load above it is usually constructed with a 3.000 PSI concrete mix which would be 3 parts sand & 1 part portland by volume. Coarser sand will yield higher strength as their will be less surface are of the sand to be covered by the portland.
PaddleDogC5 thanks....
Great video Mike. Do you use a certain type of cement from the store?
Hi Nate, there is so many products now, lots of pre mixes, I show what I used in almost all my videos, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, if I am cutting in a new crawlspace opening into a foundation, will the wall above be ok until I put the lentil in?
Hi Anthony, unless I was actually there I can't say, everything depends, thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
I need to install a lentil over my 10 ft garage door. It's a block building, and someone put a 4x4 with shims over it where a lentil used to be. If I go with the angle iron approach, do I need to secure the angle iron to anything and full it solid like in your steel beams video? Or just cement everything when I lay the block over it like in this video? Thanks, Dean.
Hi Dean, that is structural and I can't comment on it, I only show what I did in certain situations, when it is structural like that it's all about engineering, inspectors and liability, I would ask some of the locals, I hope it helps, mike
Hi Mike, thanks for great video. I have a home with a cinder block basement, that I would like to install a door. I would like to enlarge the window opening to do this. My question is that the window opening has no blocks over it. How do I put a lintel in? Is this a structural issue if the wall doesn't have any blocks from floor to ceiling which it would after the door is put in? The window opening is about 32 inches.
Thanks
Hi Allen, it's a hard question to answer because every situation is different, I did a video on how I cut out brick and block doorway. Mike haduck and the others are basement window replacement, I hope it helps mike
Dying trade ,and about a few more years with this silica safety b.s going to be rough on masonry companies specially ones that do all commercial work .Nice video
thanks Jimmy, I agree, I seen it going downhill from the beginning, everything now is being pre-made, thanks mike
Do you all ways use a metal top for your mud board
Hi Jim, anything available usually, thanks mike
Made my first lintel. Thanks!
thanks John, I hope it works out, mike
Its perfect. I worked as a "mud" man on block crews but never had the confidence to go further. Thanks for the encouragement. Only wish I could upload a pic for you!
A nice decorative lintel could be made by using two cantilevers each projecting one third of the aperture from either side and these locked by the other bricks , then i the faces in between the two cantilevers would be slanted and a keystone or a crown inserted in between. So many ways to bridge a gap!
Hi Carmel, nothing on this job creative here just get it over with with little expense, It is what the owner wanted, thanks mike
Really nice work. Does that pass county inspection
Hi marde, there's no county inspectors here and if there was you wouldn't get a inspection report in writing, because most of them only take money and haven't a clue about what they are looking at, this is what I see in Pennsylvania, thanks Mike
wonderfully instructive. thanks...again
Thanks old man, Mike
Great Video Mike! What ratio do you mix your Portland and sand? 2nd - Do you use the same mixture in between the blocks as well as the filling?
Hi Jeff, I use regular "s" mortar (2 sand 1 cement) for patching and making my own lentils (1 portland and 2 sand), it works for me, thanks mike
I have been watching your videos. Very instructional and clear. My only additional issue is that my beams are sitting on the blocks that I want to cut to make a doorway. Do I do the same thing you did or I have to take some additional steps? Thanks
Hi Manos, I would ask some of the locals, this video there was only a few courses of block above it, nothing that was too heavy or seriously supporting anything, thanks Mike
Great video Mike! As always!
thanks , mike
I’m needing a lintel 7 feet long to go over a single car garage door. Do you think this method would work for that?
Hi Dave, I can't say unless I was there to see it, Maybe part 2 will give you some ideas, thanks mike
Hey Mike , What mix did you use to make the old school block lintel ? Is “S” mortar store bought mix ok to use ?
Hi west, to make the concrete lentil I used a concrete mix, portland ,sand and gravel, no motar, or s mortar, the premix store bought is ok, my opinion, thanks Mike
Thanks Mike !!!
Hey bro good day that was eye opening appreciated
Thanks Gifford, Mike
Great Vid Mike, Thanks ! One question. I would think if the bending load on the lintel is pressing down in the middle ( like a bridge ), you would want the rebar inside to droop like the cables of a suspension bridge . With the crown up, the rebar would be in compression as the center is pushed down, and I would think you would want it to be in tension. The crown up rebar would be trying to push the blocks apart when under load instead of trying to pull them together. I believe prestressed concrete beams have the cables inside drooping down away from the "Up" side>
It may be and of course it makes sense, I have to go with the arch idea though for little spans over windows and doors. especially when I use two rebar- up and below, just because I built a lot of them in stone,,I been over a lot of those bridges and I am amazed for sure, those bridges would make a good video and you make a good point, thought of it myself but I got to stick with old school in this case,. thanks mike
the way I see this rob is like a flatbed truck trailer...they are made welded with an upward arched surface...when the load is placed on the deck it flexes down and travels flat.
@@pensive69 So that's called camber. The trucks are designed based on their max payload. An engineer then checks what the deflection would be if you apply a percentage of that maximum (i use 60-75% in the structural world). Whatever that deflection is, you invert it and give it an upward arc so that when it's loaded it settles down closer to flat. It has very little to do with strength.
Fantastic, thanks for sharing!
Thanks carlotta, Mike
Did you cut those cores with an angle grinder in the old days?
Hi, hammer and chisel, thanks Mike
We made our own when I was a lad and cast them in place 60 years ago in England 🏴
Thanks chipper, Mike
Would you be able to answer a question for me. The structure I want to open up on the house is block construction from the 40's. I'm concerned that lentils won't be enough because I don't know the footers are right, the house is going down hill in one corner. Is there a way to open op the block and make a 10 foot opening, add a lentil and fix the footer? Thanks anyone so much!
Hi Nancy, it sounds like you might be using steel or wood if it is a one story house, I would run it by some of your local contractors and get some opinions, thanks, mike
You can buy U shaped block for making the lintels. Nice video.
Thanks Tony, Mike
hey how can i connect an existing lintel to the cement block next to it.. .cant believe id have to remover the whole header just to go 8 inches to the left to next block.. any ideas..
Hi Hydro, I can’t say unless I was there, thanks, mike
Hi Mike. I'm a big fan and subscriber of your channel. I am about to build a block structure with a lintel that will span a 7 ft opening. I will only have one course of block above the lintel. I really like your angle iron approach. Do you think that would work for such a wide opening? What size angle iron would you recommend? Many thanks!
+Edward Hoffman sometimes we use a special made I beam,, check with the local suppliers, thanks mike.
If you where to do the outside lentil would you put in some sort of flashing system ?
westside98 I can't answer that kind of question unless I was actually there to see it. I would ask some of the local guys, thanks mike
Mike,
Would you have a brand or part number for the blade you are using to cut the blocks? I have a 7" angle grinder and I can't seem to find a blade locally. I did a Google search but there is a dizzying amount to pick from. I'd like to know I'm getting something that works. Thanks!!! Mike
I buy them either Homedepot or lowes a diamond blade , about 15 dollars. thanks mike
have you every heard of masolite lintel , that's all the block suppliers sale around Indianapolis.
HI Sam, I can't comment I never used it , thanks Mike
How bought this!! I'm installing a small 50" wide sliding door in my mastered room...cut in to the block to add rebar.to lengthing lintel...what cha tink?
Can't seem to add a pic
I bought a monster bauer hammer chizzle...16 pounds of force.cut sideways they little and next over solid block..(happened to be solid)..going to lay 13 inch rebar in slot then cement it in
Can’t give advice over the Internet, but if it works it works, thanks, Mike
I will always give you the thumbs up 👍
Thanks Jim, Mike
Very informative and educational. Thanks!
Thanks Ray, I appreciate it. mike
Is it possible to trim 20mm off the concrete lintel. Iv to fit a upvc door....
Hi Jo, that only sounds like a inch, I don't see why not, we have done it lots of times, sometimes we would use angle irons etc, everything depends on the situation, I would ask someone in your area to look at it, Mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks mike.. I appreciate the advice
Mike, I can't find you're video "How I broke out of prison". 😂😂 good one.
Hi Frank , out of curiosity to the corrections department, I took it off, they were having too many escapes, lol, Mike
@@MikeHaduck I love the humour you add into the videos.
It is a second time, I see you, using an angle bar to build a crossbar. Don’t you use I-bars?
Love the way, you show how to make crossbar out of blocks. Does it work with bricks?
When I was a kid, I saw my father putting I-bars over every wall opening. Didn’t matter, if it was loaded wall or not.
Where I live now, the old-school insists on using I-bars every time, if the crossbar has to be replaced. Especially, if the wall has cracks.
Hi Sergey, I guess it is like anything, I know what will hold up and if I am not certain then I might prop it up, everything depends, thanks, mike
Tanks Mike haduck for this vídeo
thanks Miguel, I appreciate it. mike
Hey where are you from ?
That’s a nice junction box to the right of the door!
Hi Lance, I know they were planning to retire the whole garage, thanks, Mike
Love your videos!
Thanks George, mike
Awesome work, Mike. I've seen the angle irons on many buildings, but never knew how lintels were constructed.
thanks , I thought it would make an interesting video, mike
I always place angle in on both sides prior to demo.
there are aways a lot of different ways to do things, I appreciate it. mike
Very helpful , thanks 👍
Thanks rob, mike
Excellent ! Thank You !
Thanks, mike
Very informative....Thanks for posting. Great info for sure.
thanks mike
Wow! You weren’t afraid of that block collapsing? You know your concrete!
Thanks, Mike
what kind of mud did you use
Hi John , depends on the job, here just traditional block laying cement, thanks mike
I laughed out loud at the breaking out of prison line!
thanks Pete, I love to throw a little laughs in there, thanks mike
How many centimeters should I lean on the lintel on the walls on each side?
I can not say over the internet how to do something, I just show how I did it for that job, I hope it helps, thanks mike
gugolero approx 150mm or 6 inches
Tuff as nails partner, and I agree with last comment. You could twist a man up like a pretzel throwing that mud and block everyday like you obviously have.
Thanks Isaac, mike
We've got a block addition here in Florida to work on if you wan to escape the snow :0
+BodhisattvaIdeal I appreciate it but with all the rules and regs you got to have the local guys who know how to navigate through them., just the way it is anymore, thanks mike
Great video...learned a lot...thanks.
Thanks Viking, I appreciate it. mike
Love it. Simple and to the point.
Thanks CL, I appreciate it, mike
great Video Mike , learned something new again from a fellow Mrs. T's Pierogie lover. Just wondering though if those dock shoes your wearin are steel tips ;-)
only on government jobs. my toes get stuck lol mike
great info simply explained ..
+suvichar mali thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Great videos Mike, thoroughly enjoy see the old school techniques. "Door wall" 👍
+J.P. Fox thanks, I got different names for everything, lol. mike
lol and if ya gets caught in the act...just tell the wardon "hey man, there was no lintel"
another great, informative vid Mike . Thanks
that's right, thanks mike
Great job and great advice! TY!!
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Thank you
Thanks Gearhart, Mike