I recommend u run your machine for a couple hours to break in new springs and then I tune it a bit i use a 16g spring on my shaders and a 18g spring on my liners and on my power liner/ color packer I use a 22g spring
I was actually working on my machines today. I fixed one of my coil liners finally, and in building another machine with this new frame that I got. The coils on the new machine are larger, and I noticed it needs more volts to power it up, versus my liner that I had fixed. I was having some difficulty getting to figure it out, but I got it down for the most part.
Hell yeah guys I'm about to check it out right now. I'm a self taught artist, but I've had a pretty good time tattooing fortunately. I've been learning in depth about coil machines lately, like all of the science and the engineering behind it. Its definitely making sense and I can't wait to fix this machine! I actually want to turn it into a smooth shader/blender. I already have a good fine liner rotary machine that I can do different things with, I have a good sturdy coil liner, and a pretty heavy ass shader/packer. I need the 4th machine to alleviate some of the work that I do on my heaviest machine
@@julive565 good mindset. You kinda want to cycle machines specially rotaries. Coils last forever. You can try using a thin back spring and an 8 wrap coil on a shader for smooth black and Grey.
@@julive565 cut ur both sides of ur rear springs using tin snips if u want softer hit. also, try changing to a lower microfarad capacitor for a faster machine since it'll kinda slow down if u cut ur rear springs (just a bit). mind the air gap, the spring gauge, the tension and youll eventually get there. if you want to run on lower volts.. try changing rearr spring gauge. also has something to do with the rear spring post to armature bar gap. the shorter, the faster the machine runs but kinda needs more volts. for shaders u want that gap to be 6-7mm if i remember my frame geo right. to get around this just buy longer/shorter armature bar
Seriously just do me a favor and do more research. Thick or wider springs make the machine hit softer. If your tool is heating up it’s set up wrong. Also you shouldn’t be adjusting machines like that set it up once and let it break in t will work better after a few years.
@@TortugaPHhe does this on every tutorial video; I’ve saw him on multiple video comment sections. He just doesn’t want new people starting, more competition.
Im having trouble with the armature bar and spring being too close to my could and sticking to the coil hoe do I fix this?
You can bend the back spring upwards. Basically loosen the knot then move the whole bar to the side and start bending.
Do you have any tutorial how to set up all stuff to make ready for tatoo include how to pług etc.
I recommend u run your machine for a couple hours to break in new springs and then I tune it a bit i use a 16g spring on my shaders and a 18g spring on my liners and on my power liner/ color packer I use a 22g spring
Thanks forgot to mention that you have the break in new springs.
22g front and back??
@@paulperrin2152 no I use 18 front 22 back it all depends on it capacitor I use an eikon power supply that tell cps and ft
I was actually working on my machines today. I fixed one of my coil liners finally, and in building another machine with this new frame that I got. The coils on the new machine are larger, and I noticed it needs more volts to power it up, versus my liner that I had fixed. I was having some difficulty getting to figure it out, but I got it down for the most part.
That's great. Maybe your new coils has less wraps that's why it needs more voltage.
Try checking the height of the back coil. Also your contact screw. Normally shades run with lower voltages.
Hell yeah guys I'm about to check it out right now. I'm a self taught artist, but I've had a pretty good time tattooing fortunately. I've been learning in depth about coil machines lately, like all of the science and the engineering behind it. Its definitely making sense and I can't wait to fix this machine! I actually want to turn it into a smooth shader/blender. I already have a good fine liner rotary machine that I can do different things with, I have a good sturdy coil liner, and a pretty heavy ass shader/packer. I need the 4th machine to alleviate some of the work that I do on my heaviest machine
@@julive565 good mindset. You kinda want to cycle machines specially rotaries. Coils last forever. You can try using a thin back spring and an 8 wrap coil on a shader for smooth black and Grey.
@@julive565 cut ur both sides of ur rear springs using tin snips if u want softer hit. also, try changing to a lower microfarad capacitor for a faster machine since it'll kinda slow down if u cut ur rear springs (just a bit). mind the air gap, the spring gauge, the tension and youll eventually get there.
if you want to run on lower volts.. try changing rearr spring gauge. also has something to do with the rear spring post to armature bar gap. the shorter, the faster the machine runs but kinda needs more volts. for shaders u want that gap to be 6-7mm if i remember my frame geo right. to get around this just buy longer/shorter armature bar
💯💯💯
My coil machine not work😢
Everything in this video is wrong please do more research to understand your tools
Sure it is works for me. Have a good day. :)
Seriously just do me a favor and do more research. Thick or wider springs make the machine hit softer. If your tool is heating up it’s set up wrong. Also you shouldn’t be adjusting machines like that set it up once and let it break in t will work better after a few years.
@@TortugaPHhe does this on every tutorial video; I’ve saw him on multiple video comment sections. He just doesn’t want new people starting, more competition.
LMAO@@pavelbrodsky6115