Im certified for smaw when im school in trade school way back when i was in Philippines. 10 yrs staying here in US i plan to buy a welding machine remembrance from my reels money. And want more ideas before i will start doing it. This very helpful for me.
My thoughts on what rod to use when: 6010/6011 run very hot and are used in pipe welding as the initial pass to burn through and form a keyhole and then fill in the keyhole. That is why you whip and pause with these rods. The other use is welding on galvanized steel. You need that heat to burn off the zinc. Some machines will just not run 6010 but will run 6011. Some codes require 6010. These rods are not very useful to a farm welder or home welder unless you are welding galvanized metal. 7018 runs cooler and deposits more metal and is stronger than 6010/6011. It is used in structural welds. People get confused about low hydrogen rods like 7018 and the need for keeping moisture away by baking them in a rod oven. You only need to bake them if you are welding a highly constrained joint of high carbon steel. For farm welding and hobby welding mild steel, use out of the can with no worries. It should be the go to rod for most projects. 6013/7014 are general purpose rods. They are the easiest to weld with and lay down a lot of metal and make the prettiest welds and are hot enough to burn away contaminates. They are frequently called farm welder rods. They are not hot enough to weld galvanized steel and not as strong as 7018. If your weld strength is not critical, you can use these. Even though 7014, is listed as all positions (because of 1as the third number), it melts at a low temp and makes vertical and overhead quite a challenge. I hope this helps.
Both 7018 and 7014 have the same tensile strength correct? I am just curious how one is stronger than the other? Not saying this as a troll either. I am curious and google wasn't much help.
@@zacharystout492 The strength I mentioned was something a hobbiest or beginner welder would never notice. 7018 is for welding high carbon steel and has a little better penetration than 7014. That is important to an engineer, but of no use to a hobby welder. For fixing a broken tooth on a box blade ripper, 7014 would be as strong as 7018. For welding together a structural support containing high carbon steel, 7018 is required.
I was just talking about how I didn't waste the extra time I found at home during the pandemic the last year and a half I said I'm not just going to waste this spare time. So I watched a lot of historical documentaries and learned some side skills and welding is one of them. I even got myself a TIG machine already spent alot and didn't get anything fancy. But I've got enough!
Heck yeah brother. I spent the first stimi check I got on an Titanium Arc225 from harbor freight, just recently got to being able to pay for all my welding supplies with art I've made and sold so far. It's pretty satisfying making stuff so easily after the first 10-20 hrs of use.
If you have to use 6010 rods I would get 6010 5P+.. It starts easy and produces a smooth weld even on rusty material. The slag also removes easier than 6011 or standard 6010
What I do with my E7018 as soon as I’m at the end of the weld I hold it there and let it fill up for about half a second and then quickly flick the rod so you don’t have to fight it to restrike
Depends. Youll learn as you go. Depends on the metal thickness. If its thick.you can hang out a long time. If its thin. You might need to use 6011 as a stringer then build up over it as a beginner. After some time. By preference, i stopped using 6011 when I mastered 7018 on thinner materials. If you fuck up.7018 sucks to grind.
What if we used tungsten rod in stick welding for half mm thick steel plate welding, what will happen, it's kind of awkward but please can you answer me?
There is no flux coating on tungsten so it would only stick to or burn up the metal and not bond or create a bead. 👍 "only baldor awkward question is an unasked question."
Practice, practice, practice. I still stick the rod. I stuck the rod today like 3 times. 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️but a good technique is to start dragging the rod from a higher location then your weld point then line up your rod into the start point and drag it out from there. Drag down about an inch from the start, This will warm the rod and help keep it firing while you get into position. Let me know if this helps. You can also reach out to us on the weld.com forum.
OK - so what happens when the rod constantly sticks? Scratching or tapping makes no difference 7018 110-150A makes no difference. 1-1/2" angle iron that has been weld ground clean. Sticks everytime fast or slow. Lincoln AC 225C
On a practice plate, Try to lay the rod at a greater then 45° angle and just drag the rod backhand with a quick motion like a match but for a couple of inches. What you are try to do is create a steady uncontrolled arc without sticking. If this works try again then pull up on the stinger while trying to dip the rod into the plate and slow down your pace.
Also if there is not enough flux coating around the tip of the electrode you will not create the gas barrier you need to maintain the arc without sticking. Please reach out to us on the weld.com forum for more insight. I hope this works, let me know 👍
Sure, 10&11 for ‘deep penetration’ but requires a different rod manipulation when welding …. 10&11 very popular with ‘deckers’ because they’ll burn through decking like butter and will allow a fast plug/spot weld to be created onto the supporting structural members 🤷🏻♂️ …. and since it’ll burns much hotter you need to move the rod ‘in - n - out’ of the puddle or you will through lighter gauge steels if there’s no supporting member that plug or spot weld is not part of the will allow having a desired plug or spot weld connection at that point 😬 ..… trade folk call it ‘stacking-dimes’ because that joint appearance will be that of showing how quickly the ‘in - n - out’ movement can solidify the molten mass and that suddenly cools leaves the molten mass with a flat ‘dime’ look 🤔 … while on the other hand, 7018 will provide only a mild penetration but the bead need only to be dragged without much worry 😁 … and slag cleans off with little effort 😎 … good luck amigo and practice, practice, practice 👍🏼💪🏼✌🏽
@@BC-hr2of Thanks! For my first build I'm trying to make a steel gate. 1/4 posts and frame and 1/8 in the middle. I have 6011 - is that too tough? Are my thicknesses good?
@@mikerubin290 … 1/4” good for post strength but while you’ll lay the heat into that 1/4” thickness you’ll need to keep an eye on the 1/8” material because the heat you use on the 1/4” material can overwhelm the 1/8” material …. there’s a good ‘household’ rod, 6013, runs exactly like a 7018 rod without all the rod moisture precautions … if you’ve never used 6010 or 6011 you’ll need to get the technique down … 6013 is relatively easy to ‘drag it’ and have good mild depth penetration welds…. one more thing, 3/16” would of worked just as well 🤔 … maybe easier to work 😎
Can we see a video where you don’t use all the bells and whistles? Just maybe for a pass or two. It seems not having the bells and whistles my technique looks different and maybe there is something im doing wrong. My arc is inconsistent.
If you're trying to learn as a farmer for worn out legs and cultivator shares and offer to rebuild them. Looks do t matter and I expect they'd be happy to help
good to let the plate cool down rather than ‘quench’ it 😬 … and we’re dragging the 18 rod while ‘stacking dimes’ with the 10&11 rods 😎 … good practice amigo 🤠
@@ianvincent4911 too bad, in Canada we can get everything the US guy can. If you have an Air Liquide store in your area you should be able to get all. They are a French company and they have stores every where here in Canada,so why not the UK?
@@bruced1429 We have the same suppliers e.g. ESAB etc. But they don't import them. 6013 is used for nearly everything (well and 7016/7018) but our 6013s can be very different with lots of variation. For example Bohler do various different 6013s but they can be radically different how they weld, some even weld like 6010s. We do have 7024s though, although they aren't used much (have some in my garage).
@@ianvincent4911 Yes I have all of the rods you mentioned plus many more types.I do hard facing on snow blowers and other farm implements and repairing other equipment. I do use the 7024 for a nice ripple finish on some barbeques I make. I have 2 Fronius and 1 Esab welder and just ordered a HTP pulse mig welder.
I want to say it's great to see a new video in which the presenter is speaking clearly and not trying to be cool. Just a simple good video. Thanks!!!!
Thank you. Thanks for the feedback!
One "trick" I use is a standard everyday red brick. It is a great block to run the rod across to scrape off the slag.
Excellent! Thanks for the feedback 👍
Not gonna lie I'm just getting started welding at the age of 16 and this is a good tip I would have never thought about thanks Danny💯🤙
Thank you for being one of the few videos that shows your body position throughout the whole weld
Im certified for smaw when im school in trade school way back when i was in Philippines. 10 yrs staying here in US i plan to buy a welding machine remembrance from my reels money. And want more ideas before i will start doing it. This very helpful for me.
welding video start at the minutes 6:19
I'm a newbie and you're my go-to for clear instruction.
Looking Great Bob, glad to see another one of your videos....cheers, Paul
Thanks Paul! Love being here! 👍👍
My thoughts on what rod to use when:
6010/6011 run very hot and are used in pipe welding as the initial pass to burn through and form a keyhole and then fill in the keyhole. That is why you whip and pause with these rods. The other use is welding on galvanized steel. You need that heat to burn off the zinc. Some machines will just not run 6010 but will run 6011. Some codes require 6010. These rods are not very useful to a farm welder or home welder unless you are welding galvanized metal.
7018 runs cooler and deposits more metal and is stronger than 6010/6011. It is used in structural welds. People get confused about low hydrogen rods like 7018 and the need for keeping moisture away by baking them in a rod oven. You only need to bake them if you are welding a highly constrained joint of high carbon steel. For farm welding and hobby welding mild steel, use out of the can with no worries. It should be the go to rod for most projects.
6013/7014 are general purpose rods. They are the easiest to weld with and lay down a lot of metal and make the prettiest welds and are hot enough to burn away contaminates. They are frequently called farm welder rods. They are not hot enough to weld galvanized steel and not as strong as 7018. If your weld strength is not critical, you can use these. Even though 7014, is listed as all positions (because of 1as the third number), it melts at a low temp and makes vertical and overhead quite a challenge.
I hope this helps.
Both 7018 and 7014 have the same tensile strength correct? I am just curious how one is stronger than the other?
Not saying this as a troll either. I am curious and google wasn't much help.
@@zacharystout492
The strength I mentioned was something a hobbiest or beginner welder would never notice. 7018 is for welding high carbon steel and has a little better penetration than 7014. That is important to an engineer, but of no use to a hobby welder. For fixing a broken tooth on a box blade ripper, 7014 would be as strong as 7018. For welding together a structural support containing high carbon steel, 7018 is required.
@@TheDadPenfield thanks for the reply. I am picking up what you are laying down.
I was just talking about how I didn't waste the extra time I found at home during the pandemic the last year and a half I said I'm not just going to waste this spare time. So I watched a lot of historical documentaries and learned some side skills and welding is one of them. I even got myself a TIG machine already spent alot and didn't get anything fancy. But I've got enough!
Congratulations Colonel.....
Heck yeah brother. I spent the first stimi check I got on an Titanium Arc225 from harbor freight, just recently got to being able to pay for all my welding supplies with art I've made and sold so far. It's pretty satisfying making stuff so easily after the first 10-20 hrs of use.
Awesome! Just a little time and patience and we all can weld mountains!
If you have to use 6010 rods I would get 6010 5P+.. It starts easy and produces a smooth weld even on rusty material. The slag also removes easier than 6011 or standard 6010
A lincoln fleetweld 5p+ is a standard 6010👍
Thanks man, want to start my own small fabricating shop.
Bring back mancub red beard and Bob back permanently.
No
Way better teachers those two guys
Nice job, can you make one video with 6013 electrode?
I hope you make a video on thin hollow square tubing
You should make a request on the weld.com forum 👍
What I do with my E7018 as soon as I’m at the end of the weld I hold it there and let it fill up for about half a second and then quickly flick the rod so you don’t have to fight it to restrike
Good idea! Thanks for the feedback.
Depends. Youll learn as you go. Depends on the metal thickness. If its thick.you can hang out a long time. If its thin. You might need to use 6011 as a stringer then build up over it as a beginner. After some time. By preference, i stopped using 6011 when I mastered 7018 on thinner materials. If you fuck up.7018 sucks to grind.
And to restrike always tap off the slag. You your still not burning rods. Then turn up your heat.
@@mattgaming8717 I always rake my slag off the toes of the weld with a sharp piece of a file. It's there that it's the toughest to clean.
I can do welding and I can do it slowly. I want to work in the USA
Love the hoods dawg ! Weld a rail then go shred it !!!
🤘🤘🤘you got that right! That was my first ever project!
looks like the first pass your rod angle changed from start to finished
Could you make a video on stick welding thin wall square tubing cheers
I am watching from Bangladesh
welcome from USA, Cheers
@@ypaulbrown Ok I like your welding videos a lot
@@nuruzzaman8337 thank you, but they are not mine, they are Weld.com....I am just a viewer like you....Cheers....
Ayyyy let’s go
You worked with the pipelines at one point? Took me a sec to notice the pancake mask
Hard to follow your weld a better lens would help
I believe we are working on a better welding film lens. Thanks for the feedback.
What if we used tungsten rod in stick welding for half mm thick steel plate welding, what will happen, it's kind of awkward but please can you answer me?
There is no flux coating on tungsten so it would only stick to or burn up the metal and not bond or create a bead. 👍 "only baldor awkward question is an unasked question."
Hot tungsten oxidizes quickly unless you have shielding gas.
Tips for starting 7018 without sticking?
Practice, practice, practice. I still stick the rod. I stuck the rod today like 3 times. 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️but a good technique is to start dragging the rod from a higher location then your weld point then line up your rod into the start point and drag it out from there. Drag down about an inch from the start, This will warm the rod and help keep it firing while you get into position. Let me know if this helps. You can also reach out to us on the weld.com forum.
Practice….
OK - so what happens when the rod constantly sticks?
Scratching or tapping makes no difference
7018 110-150A makes no difference. 1-1/2" angle iron that has been weld ground clean. Sticks everytime fast or slow. Lincoln AC 225C
Buy a cheap DC machine?
@@johnmoriarty6158
Thanks for the reply, however, Why buy another machine - when it is better to figure out why it won't work (weld) better??
Hi Danny! If you want to post in our forum you will get a lot of advice! www.weld.com/forum
On a practice plate, Try to lay the rod at a greater then 45° angle and just drag the rod backhand with a quick motion like a match but for a couple of inches. What you are try to do is create a steady uncontrolled arc without sticking. If this works try again then pull up on the stinger while trying to dip the rod into the plate and slow down your pace.
Also if there is not enough flux coating around the tip of the electrode you will not create the gas barrier you need to maintain the arc without sticking. Please reach out to us on the weld.com forum for more insight. I hope this works, let me know 👍
CAn anyone give a breakdown of which rods to use when?
Sure, 10&11 for ‘deep penetration’ but requires a different rod manipulation when welding …. 10&11 very popular with ‘deckers’ because they’ll burn through decking like butter and will allow a fast plug/spot weld to be created onto the supporting structural members 🤷🏻♂️ …. and since it’ll burns much hotter you need to move the rod ‘in - n - out’ of the puddle or you will through lighter gauge steels if there’s no supporting member that plug or spot weld is not part of the will allow having a desired plug or spot weld connection at that point 😬 ..… trade folk call it ‘stacking-dimes’ because that joint appearance will be that of showing how quickly the ‘in - n - out’ movement can solidify the molten mass and that suddenly cools leaves the molten mass with a flat ‘dime’ look 🤔 … while on the other hand, 7018 will provide only a mild penetration but the bead need only to be dragged without much worry 😁 … and slag cleans off with little effort 😎 … good luck amigo and practice, practice, practice 👍🏼💪🏼✌🏽
@@BC-hr2of Thanks! For my first build I'm trying to make a steel gate. 1/4 posts and frame and 1/8 in the middle. I have 6011 - is that too tough? Are my thicknesses good?
@@mikerubin290 … 1/4” good for post strength but while you’ll lay the heat into that 1/4” thickness you’ll need to keep an eye on the 1/8” material because the heat you use on the 1/4” material can overwhelm the 1/8” material …. there’s a good ‘household’ rod, 6013, runs exactly like a 7018 rod without all the rod moisture precautions … if you’ve never used 6010 or 6011 you’ll need to get the technique down … 6013 is relatively easy to ‘drag it’ and have good mild depth penetration welds…. one more thing, 3/16” would of worked just as well 🤔 … maybe easier to work 😎
I like that... interested
Don't want to sound rude, but a bad, too steep of an angle for the arcshots, I can't see nothing. Something to hide or ashame from or what?
Can we see a video where you don’t use all the bells and whistles? Just maybe for a pass or two. It seems not having the bells and whistles my technique looks different and maybe there is something im doing wrong. My arc is inconsistent.
Lol, i should watch the whole video before i comment next time🤣🤣🤣🤘🏻🤭
i smoked an electrode so bad yesterday that it actually melted the base of the electrode onto the electrode holder. still cant get it off
First comment💕
Woo hoo I’m early for once
Tip plate up for better view
If you're trying to learn as a farmer for worn out legs and cultivator shares and offer to rebuild them. Looks do t matter and I expect they'd be happy to help
Use are supertite electrodes?
good to let the plate cool down rather than ‘quench’ it 😬 … and we’re dragging the 18 rod while ‘stacking dimes’ with the 10&11 rods 😎 … good practice amigo 🤠
good time for the welder to cool down too if you only have a low duty cycle
@@chrisnorth3458 … yup
6013 best training electrodes for beginners
Actually 7014 is much easier especially for restarts and slag removal. and all position.
@@bruced1429 Unfortunately they are non-existent in Europe, definately in the UK.
@@ianvincent4911 too bad, in Canada we can get everything the US guy can. If you have an Air Liquide store in your area you should be able to get all. They are a French company and they have stores every where here in Canada,so why not the UK?
@@bruced1429 We have the same suppliers e.g. ESAB etc. But they don't import them. 6013 is used for nearly everything (well and 7016/7018) but our 6013s can be very different with lots of variation. For example Bohler do various different 6013s but they can be radically different how they weld, some even weld like 6010s. We do have 7024s though, although they aren't used much (have some in my garage).
@@ianvincent4911 Yes I have all of the rods you mentioned plus many more types.I do hard facing on snow blowers and other farm implements and repairing other equipment. I do use the 7024 for a nice ripple finish on some barbeques I make. I have 2 Fronius and 1 Esab welder and just ordered a HTP pulse mig welder.
Thrasher... hell yeah!
Where did Jason (redbeard) go???????
Jesus loves y'all.
I just flick 7018 at the end of the run it throws the slag off
bobby
where chris king
How much money does that welder run for?
Right now it's $2500 www.everlastgenerators.com/?rfsn=5563218.b94173
Lightning MTS 275