It's the extension on your impact wrench that's killing it's power. They act like a torsion spring and absorb the shock that does the work. On any impact wrench, minimize anything between the anvil and socket, as even an adapter will hurt performance. I have a nice 3/4" Icon breaker bar from Harbor Freight, it's about 4' long and will rotate whatever you need rotated. Cost is about 90 bucks, and it pays for itself every time I use it. Tractors and attachments have a lot of big stuck bolts so that's more often than you'd think.
Tim I own many of those impacts. And I can tell you from not only personal experience. But lots of knowledge on that. You are losing a ton of power through that giant extension. Especially if it's not a high quality brand. You wouldn't believe how much they flex. Case in point look at torque extensions. They limit the torque output of the gun solely based on how thick the extension is.
I bent a hydraulic hard line on my 2010 2520r ‘s steering line , brush hogging and running over large sticks. I took the line into the dealer and they still ordered the wrong one. Also got two quick connects for the loader lines as they were leaking. They sent 3/8” and not the 1/4” needed. I think it will be so much better now that you’ve shown how to find the part numbers myself. Thanks Tim and Christy! For All y’all do.
I'm sure we don't see quite all of your mistakes tim, but what you show, I don't think is excessive, you are always doing something new like you said and there is learning curves to all that, love your content and all that you do for us... keep on keepin on!
Oh my, what a mangled mess. I might have been reluctant to dig into fixing something like that myself, so good on you for sharing the process and demonstrating that it might be a little tedious, but it is definitely doable.
Like they always say, “if ya ain’t doing anything nothing will get broken”. So thanks for doing stuff for your viewers, the help you provide is worth more then a few broken parts.
I feel your pain Tim I just got done doing the same thing with my 3720 cab tractor. My rear remotes and bracket got bent because my front tire got the 3rd service hose wrapped around it and bent everything. I didn't have to replace any hard lines but I have to get a couple of hydraulic hoses remade.
Good day tim I am heavy duty technician due to safety i would recommend to replace any of the lines due to weaking the line of metal when you bend line back and forth it breaks down metal Molecules Which weakens it down and causes a stress point and can cause a lot of damage or injuries there's a heads up don't wanna see anybody get hurt There's a lot of pressure that goes through those lines and a little pen hole can kill somebody because of the pressure that's coming out if you cut anything You wouldn't know it's there until it's too late Have a wonderful day love you videos keep up awesome videos
I killed my lift arms on the 2025r three times! Somethings come loose when the deck is off, bar drops, back up and you have a bent lift arm. 195 a pop! Did same as you with mower deck cyclinder hose. Stuff gets bent all the time on my jd. Need to really add shields to protect this stuff and extra cable straps on parts that tend to just fall off.
Hey Tim, you should check the torque on the 8 bolts holding the front frame to the engine just in front of the loader mounts. Several of ours have come loose and snapped off (3720 Cab). We are considering removing the front frame section in order to make the repair, but our issue could have been prevented if we more frequently checked the torque of the bolts.
Tim I really like the way you show your successes and errors. Honest videos. It really helps us other tractor owners. I have a hose that I use for the spout deflector on my snow blower that I run from the third function to the back. I am very careful to zip tie it. Your video ensures that I will continue to do so. Thank you.
Oh Tim, I feel your pain….albeit less than yours. This was educational in many ways: showing the process of evaluating the extent of damage and steps to proceed; how to use the online parts manual and ordering; the procedures of disassembly and re-assembly; and your observations and recommendations of the entire repair. Your candor and sharing an unfortunate experience makes for great content and is satisfying (for us!) to see a nasty job well done, and to learn from your experiences. Reminds me of an old saying: “Learn from mistakes of others, you’ll not live long enough to make them all yourself.” Thanks for sharing. Blessings.
It took me several parts buying experiences to get familiar with deer's parts break downs. Thanks again for all the shipping I have saved. I'm in northeast Indiana and shipments have always been very timely. I also have a few hats and several can koozies. I bought 3/4 inch Snap-on ratchet, break over head, extension, and 2 handles at an auction. I was lucky nobody wanted 3/4 stuff. I made out like a bandit. Be careful with those 4 clamps you showed. I wanted some of the 3/8 versions for my 2025R. Dealer made a mess installing my front third function. They were $13.56 each (4x13.56).
Sorry to hear about that Tim. I myself am always concerned about routing hoses around moving parts. But it's good to see how you solve the problems you encounter. I like the humor of you wearing a Summit Hydraulics tee shirt for this episode! Maybe there's some hidden advice there? Thanks for sharing.
I agree with the other comments. The extension is your problem. The extension is absorbing the shock (and probably twisting just enough). There are videos on RUclips that will show the difference in extensions etc.
Sorry to hear about your mishap. I work for a Deere dealership in MI. The quantity that is listed down below the part # is the amount used in that particular application. Most Deere parts#'s are sold individually. Of course there are some exceptions but they are few.
I can relate Tim to those " I can't believe I did this" moments. I got our new Grand L Stuck in mud up to the left front axle. I was checking a leak on the dam of the family pond while i was mowing with our new Trail Blazer front brush hog. I did not realize i was sinking until it was too late. So much for multi-tasking! LOL My neighbor got me out with a 100 hp tractor. I spent almost an hour cleaning off the mud and rock. Still have some souvenirs of t he episode when I was greasing underneath. 😆 LOL
I think that some of your mistake videos are just just as important as the working videos. Good job. The scraps and bends are just a remainder to think ahead when attaching things to do your jobs. And great camera work.
Ol' wrench turner tip: when removing hard mounts(or other bolts) put some anti-seize on the bolts when you put it back on.You or someone else will appreciate that years down the road when removing them again.....
I don’t comment much but I wanted to say thanks for all the excellent reviews of real-world applications for the newer tractors and equipment. My Dad just took delivery of a new 4066r, it was a close call but I managed to talk him out of the orange treadle pedal variety. We use several conventional farm implements like haybines and the SAE specs for pto and drawbar are a must as well. I wouldn’t have known the difference had I watched your videos. Thanks again
Good video great lesson learned. But how come you haven’t installed Ken’s 3R-UDVK ? I installed on my 3046R works very well for needing 2 sets of hoses attached.
Thank you for turning these costly mistakes into learning experiences. I have bent the hardlines on my 1025r bucket when a log jumped up as I lowered the bucket. ☹️
I find that getting frustrated at mechanic work is a waste of energy and time. I find that I am MUCH less effective if frustrated. I can actually find some ENJOYMENT in these repairs if I just relax and take it one step at a time. Thanks for watching!
Tenacious Tim! Stuff happens when you work. Loved how you went about replacing and repairing. But it did go a little smoother when Christy came out to give you a helping hand. LOL! God does have a sense of humor!
We have a 2210, and my brother has a 1025R. I have always thought Deere should have put the coupler bracket in back, then ran lines to the loader under the tractor. That way you would have outlets in back for loader/equipment and use the loader control to operate both.(of course not at the same time)
Hi Arrow!!!! Glad to see Bullseye has a new buddy!! Good video, shows how quickly things can get expensive but also how things can be repaired to get you back to tractoring. Have a good one!!
I was jd main dealer early 2000’s, we had a customer do the very same, at the time, the kit to duplicate the joystick/loader control outlets you’ve bent to the rear with a front or rear valve wasnt silly money and we fitted a few to help sell tractors. It was separate/different to the extra rear hyd services kit.
When I saw the mount and twisted couplers, I busted out laughing, Tim. If you're not breaking things, you're not working. It happens. I have a 3039r. You're not alone...
While you can’t get quite the same torque as a 12” “open end adjustable wrench,” the 180mm Pliers Wrench actually opens about the same width and will fit your pocket. Highly recommended as a companion to the Cobra. KC tools has about every size and are good people to work with.
Don’t feel bad Tim things happen. My dad and family had did that for years use the front in loader remotes for another set in the back! We have never had any trouble at all. As long as you zip tie everything up from and out of the way you should never have any trouble! It is a lot cheaper running rubber hoses from the front to the back for another remote then buying a factory hydraulic block! That works very well doing it that way if you talk everything in insecure it well!
Crows foot wrench/sockets are great for an application like those rear lines. An open end wrench head that you can put on an extension and operate with a ratchet.
On the impact, you're getting twisting in the extension and play in the socket/extension connections, so you'll lose a ton of impact power, especially on that style of impacts. The different style (cam style?) like the Nitrocats, where you can't use torque sticks on them, don't lose torque so bad because they have much longer pulses.
Such a great video, Tim. So thankful you (patiently!) take the time to put such quality into the job itself as well as the job of filming it & processing it for us, for our "good."
Don’t know if you ever saw them but home depot and lowes has quick tie things. There like big rubber polymer bread ties with a wire in the middle. They work great for hydro hoses. I got one for my grapple bucket that has long hoses, they are quick and easy compared to zip ties for that kinda stuff. I think they are made by gear tie.
With the price of fuel today ordering online with free shipping can save a lot of money. Its a 50 mile drive to my tractor dealer and the ac on my motorcycle is broken. It gets twice the mileage as my truck but the ac only works in the fall, winter, and spring. On a positive note the heater is working very well. :)
Thanks for sharing this video, Tim. The 3rd function for my grapple on my 3046R with cab quick working last week. It just makes a clicking sound when I try to use it and nothing moves on the grapple. I guess I will have to haul it in to the JD Dealer again. .
Thank you for showing that even the best make errors and we all need the be humble...you did not need to show it but you did making a bunch of people who have done things which end up costing money that you can fix it by just going about it methodically
helpful hint on any impact wrench ....you lose substantial "nut busting torque" when you use any form of extension .....next time take the extension off....also connecting lines in a tight space like that i use a cheap set of 12pt box end wrenches and cut a bit out of the wrench end to fit around the pipe so they are like flare nut wrenches ..the 12pt design gives you lots of flexibility ....and starting with a cheap 2$ wrench its a no brainer for that situation
The pain is real, I feel it right along with you! Funny story, My oldest brother's father in-law owned a business that installed wiring for home visual/audio and home and business security equipment. He always use to say to my brother "If you don't brake something, you really are not working." Well, my oldest brother who was working for him accidentally broke a main glass security door for one of their business clients. A door they had to have restored before the business could be closed that night, so it was one of those it had to get fixed at whatever cost it was going to take sorta things. His boss sorta had to eat those words when my brother called him up and said "Boss, I was working! and..." Well, you get the idea!
Great video as always!!...on your breaker bar if you drill the handle part almost like a countersink it will give you some room for the bur you need to hold it there...just thinking out loud...in type....
I’m curious if sub and compact tractors with loader attachment can be spec ordered with rear auxiliary hydraulic connection points similar to agriculture tractors? I have seen new tractors of various brands with rear hydraulics that are mounted in various places, fender and roll bar, etc. Visually it resembled an afterthought add on and not OEM.
A couple of sets of crows feet wrenches will help a lot on getting into hard places. I was kind of waiting to see you get the wheel lined back up on the hub. I had noticed that JD cheaped out on the owners and didn't include 2 studs to help in lining up the lug bolt holes. I have gotten to the stage were if I am going to be pulling a rim that only has lug bolts no studs and nuts that I buy two long bolts with the correct threads and cut the heads off them to use as line up studs, once I have several lug bolts in and snugged up I'll pull the temporary studs out.
We all need to send Tim a bag of zip ties. lol Thanks for sharing Tim. It was an expensive mistake that might help someone else not do the same. I hope the rest of your week goes much better.
Tim, I've got a new 3033R tractor and the brochure that John Deere puts out as a sales gemic says the 33R comes with "scissor suspension seat, folding armrests and a 15-degree swivel". Tim, I noticed your 3046 has an air-ride seat, did you order it that way or did you add the air-ride seat, also, what was the standard seat that comes with a 3046R tractor from John Deere? Thanks Tim, sorry you made that mistake with the couplers but we all learn from mistakes.
Great Video Tim and Christie! I always found myself having similar instances like this working for my dad logging. I would always let them bother me and I would be on the phone and internet trying to fix it as fast as I could before my dad found out.
@@TractorTimewithTim it is mounted at the rear behind the seat . They still call it mid because the control is on the loader SCV with the switch . I did add the line and tube kit from Deere ,after purchase . Comes with hoses to plug in at the 3rd function and adds outlets near the other four by the loader mount . Also has the pipes to run up the loader mast for a grapple or other item . Yours having the mid pto option ,as does mine you get the 3rd function included . They called it mid SCV , even though it is actually behind the seat .
Hi Tim, I tried to order from green parts store, and it asked for my local dealer, but I wanted it shipped to my house, any idea what I was doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Like others have said about the torque wrench.the extension really hurts performance. Go to “Torque Test Channel “ on RUclips, they have lots of videos. They actually did a test on how much extensions hurt torque wrench’s. Glad you got it fixed and keep videos coming.
Thanks Tim for sharing your pain with us !! Glad to see you got it fixed. Do you have any thoughts on the location of the JD couplers vs the location of the Kubotas in perhaps further contributing to what happened and the repair process ?? Also, thanks for sharing the "ordering process" with us !!
Hey Tim, Sorry to hear that happenned. Shite happens sir, especially when you use your tools. No biggy. Had my share of them...LOL! You fixed it and we benefit from the mistake. Really appreciate the info and enjoy watching the fix. Thanks for sharing!
The flat jaw knipex do work nice for tightening fittings that are hard to reach. I am still waiting for my parts order.. I ordered in January. I'm not thinking too highly of deere.
No, not under pressure at all. Release any residual pressure by moving the joystick in all 4 directions with the tractor off. This relieves any pressure. Further, you won’t be able to connect the loader hoses if there is any pressure in those lines. So, use the same truck before attempting to connect hoses to the quick couplers.
Very shocked the Milwaukee didn’t do it. I use my Milwaukee everyday and very rarely does anything else outperform it. It outperforms 2 different 3/4 drive impacts I’ve bought.
Hey Tim, when you add the diverter for the 4th and 5th you remove all those lines and don't re-use them. Probably a few sets sitting around..............I have a set on a shelf in my shop. Mine is a cab...............not sure if open station are different
Wow Tim, I learned some valuable info about finding part numbers in the online Deere catalogue. I’ve ordered from Green Parts Store, but it always took me a while to figure out the parts. This helps tremendously!
I like seeing the pictures of the part I'm going to order. Seems that Green Parts needs to get their site updated with more pictures. I order from Green parts, but it gives me the feeling, Did I order the correct part.
Tim, While I do the same and compare prices when you are in the catalog go ahead and change the qty and add the part numbers to the cart. When you are all done you have the list of parts you need along with the qty and prices. Then you can go bargain shopping. You could also print that out and take it to the dealer. However from what I've seen the price at the dealer is usually more than the price if I buy it online and drive over and pick it up.
@@carterblann2290 Who has proven it false? I've experienced it myself removing axle nuts. My Milwaukee M18 impact would not loosen the nut when I had a 6-inch extension attached. I removed the extension and attached the socket directly to the gun and it instantly removed the fastener.
Can also confirm that extensions and adaptors drastically decrease the nut busting capability of any impact wrench. Again, from years of personal experience. Some of the force is absorbed by the extension. Badly worn sockets also have a similar effect. 👍🏻
@@carterblann2290 you are probably mistaking the use of an extension on a torque wrench vs an impact. Torque wrenches are accurate with an extension but an impact loses strength because the impacts are dampened by the torsional flex of the extension. This is the physics that allows the use of calibrated torque stix with an impact.
@ 26.45 "It's funny mechanics seem to be able to do these things by themselves". Seeing where the bracket bolts were somewhat behind the lines it makes the task a lot more challenging. With anything like this the trick is to do whatever the hardest step is likely to be first while everything will move around easier. That means the lines and fittings need to be threaded together loosely first and then get the assembly into place and then tighten everything. In this case, the bracket bolts would probably have to be in place but loose to allow the bracket to move. One final trick is once fully assembled, before any future disassembly is to put a light bend into the lines while they are secured at both ends. Because they are being held the bend results in the tubes bending to the exact shape you need for easier removal and reinstallation in the future.
Thanks for showing this, your videos are so informative. The question I have is actually on the tire removal. Since your tires are loaded how hard was it to remove them by yourself? I am asking because I was planning on purchasing the rear remote kit for my 3025e and removing the tire seems to be the best way to access the lines that need to be changed. My tires are loaded with Rimgaurd and I was not sure how difficult they would be to manuover.
The tire will stand on its own. That makes it much easier. If it happens to fall over, it is much more difficult to get stood back up. As long as it is standing, you can roll it around, and lean it on something. Not that difficult to handle.
Milwaukee does make a 3/4, and even a monster 1in. impact. possibly a little known fact is the battery size and generation can change the power of the tool. A newer version, or larger battery capacity model can increase the output power of the tool. If you are not breaking equipment, you aren't using equipment. :D I find I end up with similar damage when I either rush or am tired prepping for the task at hand, or when putting it away.
Well Tim, at least we will know what it will cost us in terms of money and time if we make the same mistake you did! I really appreciate your willingness to be vulnerable and showcase your errors and fixes along with your accomplishments bud! It really does help the rest of us noobie tractor jockies out here!
I’m sure you already got comments about it, but my Milwaukee 1/2 impact works great - but not so great with extensions also… Thank you for the videos Tim
I have a Quick Tip for you..... Don't use an extension with any impact wrench if you want to get maximum torque from it. It acts as a torque limiting "Torque Stick" and the reaction from the extension will reduce the torque proportionally to the length and diameter of the extension.
Nice to see I’m not the only one who makes mistakes at least it’s not as expensive as the mess I’m dealing with right now I had stored all my furniture in a storage building for two years and everything has subterranean termites in it now it’s just a salvage mission to see what’s left
Tim, could you do me a favor? What tires are on this 3046R, and what are the heights of the front and rear tires? I’m guessing you have the 27x8.5-15 on the front and the 43x16-20 on the rear. But, I cannot find their actual heights anywhere online. I have the smaller ones, and am considering getting the taller ones, but want to know how they will effect my overall tractor height.
Good reminder for us .When branches/sticks get caught my lines my heart pounds until I clear area. I use plenty of ties. Most due to extra set of lines to the front.
A lot of times when I have to work on something new I will look up the parts and see what all is needed. It’s a great way to find a hidden bolt instead of beating on a part and making it worse. Yea that’s experience expensive experience.
We all have bad luck tractoring and most of us try to hide our mistakes. Not you though and thankfully so we can learn from those mistakes and how to fix and also where to buy parts. You mentioned those floor button thingies are $2 each? I found similar ones I use for my 455 floor mat which is similar in size off amzn under Multi-Gauge Rivet 1/4" Hole in 50pks for like $12. Very similar material.
Wow, that must’ve been a lot of force to bend that bracket. Tim, could you get a 3rd function remote for the rear of the tractor? What is a triple mid scv? Maybe I should google that lol
Tim I have followed your channel when you lived in town with the first 1025r. I saw it when you had the Sabre to mow with. I appreciate the Bible verses at the end.
If ya do this again, all windows PCs include a program called Notepad. Can copy paste into that then back to whatever window your searching in, if ya dont wanna type each one next time. Id you have a torch, you can replace the pin and heat up the ends to red hot, then pound a rivet end. Not hard to do. Can do it on both ends with a new pin. Might be enough metal on your existing pin to expand the rivet flange on the weak side, but if its coming out, i doubt it. Just try not to heat the bar end up to orange and it should be fine. Something like stainless drill rod ought to do. Worst case a graded bolt shank... Like a grade 5 thats not threaded will definitely work. Typically grade 5 is used as sheer bolts, so you probably have a few laying around, only question is, is the unthreaded shoulder long enough to make your pin. Needs to fit snug in the hole and youll want at least an 1/8 of an inch to make your rivet ends to spare. 1/4" would be better. Can always grind off any extra thats bothering you. Hope that info helps. Can cool the pin in used diesel oil or mineral oil. Diesel oil in my experience tempers better.... Itll flame up a little, but ya kinda want it to when you douce it. Leave it in the oil about a minute from orange hot. When ya pull it out, itll still be warm so let it cool about a half hour. Can clean off the scale with a wire brush or wheel. Should bring it back to the same shine on your tool. New pin will have its own color usually, but that ought to fix it from coming out. Had to make new pins for various tools. Handy having a torch layin around.
@@TractorTimewithTim i got an old 2n ive been restoring... 1947. Down to just rebuilding the hydraulic pump. Right now its a matter of having the time to do it. Lol
It's the extension on your impact wrench that's killing it's power. They act like a torsion spring and absorb the shock that does the work. On any impact wrench, minimize anything between the anvil and socket, as even an adapter will hurt performance. I have a nice 3/4" Icon breaker bar from Harbor Freight, it's about 4' long and will rotate whatever you need rotated. Cost is about 90 bucks, and it pays for itself every time I use it. Tractors and attachments have a lot of big stuck bolts so that's more often than you'd think.
Tim I own many of those impacts. And I can tell you from not only personal experience. But lots of knowledge on that. You are losing a ton of power through that giant extension. Especially if it's not a high quality brand. You wouldn't believe how much they flex. Case in point look at torque extensions. They limit the torque output of the gun solely based on how thick the extension is.
I bent a hydraulic hard line on my 2010 2520r ‘s steering line , brush hogging and running over large sticks. I took the line into the dealer and they still ordered the wrong one. Also got two quick connects for the loader lines as they were leaking. They sent 3/8” and not the 1/4” needed. I think it will be so much better now that you’ve shown how to find the part numbers myself. Thanks Tim and Christy! For All y’all do.
Breaking things, and repairing them, is all part of owning a tractor. Thanks for sharing your mistakes so we can all learn from them.
Dang TIm. This is why we can't have nice things!🤣 Who amongst us hasn't had a moment they'd like to have back.
I'm sure we don't see quite all of your mistakes tim, but what you show, I don't think is excessive, you are always doing something new like you said and there is learning curves to all that, love your content and all that you do for us... keep on keepin on!
Oh my, what a mangled mess. I might have been reluctant to dig into fixing something like that myself, so good on you for sharing the process and demonstrating that it might be a little tedious, but it is definitely doable.
Like they always say, “if ya ain’t doing anything nothing will get broken”. So thanks for doing stuff for your viewers, the help you provide is worth more then a few broken parts.
I feel your pain Tim I just got done doing the same thing with my 3720 cab tractor. My rear remotes and bracket got bent because my front tire got the 3rd service hose wrapped around it and bent everything. I didn't have to replace any hard lines but I have to get a couple of hydraulic hoses remade.
Sorry to hear that, Brad!
Good day tim I am heavy duty technician due to safety i would recommend to replace any of the lines due to weaking the line of metal when you bend line back and forth it breaks down metal Molecules Which weakens it down and causes a stress point and can cause a lot of damage or injuries there's a heads up don't wanna see anybody get hurt There's a lot of pressure that goes through those lines and a little pen hole can kill somebody because of the pressure that's coming out if you cut anything You wouldn't know it's there until it's too late Have a wonderful day love you videos keep up awesome videos
Good point.
@@TractorTimewithTim just don't want anyone get hurt have wonderful day sir
I killed my lift arms on the 2025r three times! Somethings come loose when the deck is off, bar drops, back up and you have a bent lift arm. 195 a pop! Did same as you with mower deck cyclinder hose. Stuff gets bent all the time on my jd. Need to really add shields to protect this stuff and extra cable straps on parts that tend to just fall off.
Hey Tim, you should check the torque on the 8 bolts holding the front frame to the engine just in front of the loader mounts. Several of ours have come loose and snapped off (3720 Cab). We are considering removing the front frame section in order to make the repair, but our issue could have been prevented if we more frequently checked the torque of the bolts.
Good point!
Tim I really like the way you show your successes and errors. Honest videos. It really helps us other tractor owners. I have a hose that I use for the spout deflector on my snow blower that I run from the third function to the back. I am very careful to zip tie it. Your video ensures that I will continue to do so. Thank you.
Oh Tim, I feel your pain….albeit less than yours. This was educational in many ways: showing the process of evaluating the extent of damage and steps to proceed; how to use the online parts manual and ordering; the procedures of disassembly and re-assembly; and your observations and recommendations of the entire repair. Your candor and sharing an unfortunate experience makes for great content and is satisfying (for us!) to see a nasty job well done, and to learn from your experiences. Reminds me of an old saying: “Learn from mistakes of others, you’ll not live long enough to make them all yourself.” Thanks for sharing. Blessings.
It’s life with all its warts. Thanks for sharing
It took me several parts buying experiences to get familiar with deer's parts break downs. Thanks again for all the shipping I have saved. I'm in northeast Indiana and shipments have always been very timely. I also have a few hats and several can koozies.
I bought 3/4 inch Snap-on ratchet, break over head, extension, and 2 handles at an auction. I was lucky nobody wanted 3/4 stuff. I made out like a bandit.
Be careful with those 4 clamps you showed. I wanted some of the 3/8 versions for my 2025R. Dealer made a mess installing my front third function. They were $13.56 each (4x13.56).
Sorry to hear about that Tim. I myself am always concerned about routing hoses around moving parts. But it's good to see how you solve the problems you encounter.
I like the humor of you wearing a Summit Hydraulics tee shirt for this episode! Maybe there's some hidden advice there?
Thanks for sharing.
Sorry for the error, sharing it is great to have seen it. Good man Tim.
I agree with the other comments. The extension is your problem. The extension is absorbing the shock (and probably twisting just enough). There are videos on RUclips that will show the difference in extensions etc.
Sorry to hear about your mishap. I work for a Deere dealership in MI. The quantity that is listed down below the part # is the amount used in that particular application. Most Deere parts#'s are sold individually. Of course there are some exceptions but they are few.
Thanks!
I’m glad when you show your mistakes Tim. I know many other people won’t admit to screwing something up but, a real man admits when he messed up
I can relate Tim to those " I can't believe I did this" moments. I got our new Grand L Stuck in mud up to the left front axle. I was checking a leak on the dam of the family pond while i was mowing with our new Trail Blazer front brush hog. I did not realize i was sinking until it was too late. So much for multi-tasking! LOL My neighbor got me out with a 100 hp tractor. I spent almost an hour cleaning off the mud and rock. Still have some souvenirs of t he episode when I was greasing underneath. 😆 LOL
Are you going to replace the coupling on the extension hose as well?
Oh yea.
I think that some of your mistake videos are just just as important as the working videos. Good job. The scraps and bends are just a remainder to think ahead when attaching things to do your jobs. And great camera work.
Ol' wrench turner tip: when removing hard mounts(or other bolts) put some anti-seize on the bolts when you put it back on.You or someone else will appreciate that years down the road when removing them again.....
I don’t comment much but I wanted to say thanks for all the excellent reviews of real-world applications for the newer tractors and equipment. My Dad just took delivery of a new 4066r, it was a close call but I managed to talk him out of the orange treadle pedal variety. We use several conventional farm implements like haybines and the SAE specs for pto and drawbar are a must as well. I wouldn’t have known the difference had I watched your videos. Thanks again
Congratulations!
Thanks for sharing. Your are kind to tell and show these. Keep up the videos. I enjoy them.
Good video great lesson learned. But how come you haven’t installed Ken’s 3R-UDVK ? I installed on my 3046R works very well for needing 2 sets of hoses attached.
Yep. Great product!
Morning Tim, I know how you feel, I often work myself into a bind. I guess it’s part of being adventurous and willing to try new things.
This video is well worth watching every minute of it. Thank you Tim.
Thanks Phil!
As my dad always says "no good deed goes unpunished" happens to me every time. Love your videos keep up the good work.
Thank you for turning these costly mistakes into learning experiences.
I have bent the hardlines on my 1025r bucket when a log jumped up as I lowered the bucket. ☹️
Ingersol Rand Air impact will do the job usually. Always check the Ft lbs in REVERSE when shopping.
Thank you really appreciate it. You are teaching me to stay calmer when something does not work out. No wrench slamming.
I find that getting frustrated at mechanic work is a waste of energy and time. I find that I am MUCH less effective if frustrated.
I can actually find some ENJOYMENT in these repairs if I just relax and take it one step at a time.
Thanks for watching!
@@TractorTimewithTim usually give entertainment value.I have stage 4 cancer and watch your videos. I am currently doing well. Thanks again.
Sorry to hear about the cancer. Will pray for you.
Can we see more of the lx3310 and some more of the 5075 e /this is a comment from my friend and he loves your content like me.
Tenacious Tim! Stuff happens when you work. Loved how you went about replacing and repairing. But it did go a little smoother when Christy came out to give you a helping hand. LOL! God does have a sense of humor!
We have a 2210, and my brother has a 1025R. I have always thought Deere should have put the coupler bracket in back, then ran lines to the loader under the tractor. That way you would have outlets in back for loader/equipment and use the loader control to operate both.(of course not at the same time)
Of course, we have a solution for rear hydraulics on those tractors. Summit-hydraulics.com
Hi Arrow!!!! Glad to see Bullseye has a new buddy!! Good video, shows how quickly things can get expensive but also how things can be repaired to get you back to tractoring. Have a good one!!
I was jd main dealer early 2000’s, we had a customer do the very same, at the time, the kit to duplicate the joystick/loader control outlets you’ve bent to the rear with a front or rear valve wasnt silly money and we fitted a few to help sell tractors. It was separate/different to the extra rear hyd services kit.
Great explaining as you did the whole repair.
When I saw the mount and twisted couplers, I busted out laughing, Tim. If you're not breaking things, you're not working. It happens. I have a 3039r. You're not alone...
While you can’t get quite the same torque as a 12” “open end adjustable wrench,” the 180mm Pliers Wrench actually opens about the same width and will fit your pocket. Highly recommended as a companion to the Cobra. KC tools has about every size and are good people to work with.
Discussed this in the video.
Don’t feel bad Tim things happen. My dad and family had did that for years use the front in loader remotes for another set in the back! We have never had any trouble at all. As long as you zip tie everything up from and out of the way you should never have any trouble! It is a lot cheaper running rubber hoses from the front to the back for another remote then buying a factory hydraulic block! That works very well doing it that way if you talk everything in insecure it well!
Crows foot wrench/sockets are great for an application like those rear lines. An open end wrench head that you can put on an extension and operate with a ratchet.
Yep. Good idea. I should get some of those!
On the impact, you're getting twisting in the extension and play in the socket/extension connections, so you'll lose a ton of impact power, especially on that style of impacts. The different style (cam style?) like the Nitrocats, where you can't use torque sticks on them, don't lose torque so bad because they have much longer pulses.
Such a great video, Tim. So thankful you (patiently!) take the time to put such quality into the job itself as well as the job of filming it & processing it for us, for our "good."
Patience and perseverance gets the job done.
Don’t know if you ever saw them but home depot and lowes has quick tie things. There like big rubber polymer bread ties with a wire in the middle. They work great for hydro hoses. I got one for my grapple bucket that has long hoses, they are quick and easy compared to zip ties for that kinda stuff. I think they are made by gear tie.
With the price of fuel today ordering online with free shipping can save a lot of money. Its a 50 mile drive to my tractor dealer and the ac on my motorcycle is broken. It gets twice the mileage as my truck but the ac only works in the fall, winter, and spring. On a positive note the heater is working very well. :)
Thanks for sharing this video, Tim. The 3rd function for my grapple on my 3046R with cab quick working last week. It just makes a clicking sound when I try to use it and nothing moves on the grapple. I guess I will have to haul it in to the JD Dealer again. .
No need. We have a video showing how to fix. Just need a screwdriver or punch.
Thanks, searching for it now. @@TractorTimewithTim
@@ronvera Tractor 3rd Function / Diverter Not Working? Simple Solution HERE!!
ruclips.net/video/YwSSqVVj6yo/видео.html
Thank you for showing that even the best make errors and we all need the be humble...you did not need to show it but you did making a bunch of people who have done things which end up costing money that you can fix it by just going about it methodically
helpful hint on any impact wrench ....you lose substantial "nut busting torque" when you use any form of extension .....next time take the extension off....also connecting lines in a tight space like that i use a cheap set of 12pt box end wrenches and cut a bit out of the wrench end to fit around the pipe so they are like flare nut wrenches ..the 12pt design gives you lots of flexibility ....and starting with a cheap 2$ wrench its a no brainer for that situation
The pain is real, I feel it right along with you! Funny story, My oldest brother's father in-law owned a business that installed wiring for home visual/audio and home and business security equipment. He always use to say to my brother "If you don't brake something, you really are not working." Well, my oldest brother who was working for him accidentally broke a main glass security door for one of their business clients. A door they had to have restored before the business could be closed that night, so it was one of those it had to get fixed at whatever cost it was going to take sorta things. His boss sorta had to eat those words when my brother called him up and said "Boss, I was working! and..." Well, you get the idea!
Great video as always!!...on your breaker bar if you drill the handle part almost like a countersink it will give you some room for the bur you need to hold it there...just thinking out loud...in type....
I’m curious if sub and compact tractors with loader attachment can be spec ordered with rear auxiliary hydraulic connection points similar to agriculture tractors?
I have seen new tractors of various brands with rear hydraulics that are mounted in various places, fender and roll bar, etc.
Visually it resembled an afterthought add on and not OEM.
Compact tractors can have dealer installs. Most subcompacts do not have this as an option.
I have made different mistakes and learned from them...love hoping to learn from yours.
Looks like a Summit rear manifold is needed on your 3R!
A couple of sets of crows feet wrenches will help a lot on getting into hard places. I was kind of waiting to see you get the wheel lined back up on the hub. I had noticed that JD cheaped out on the owners and didn't include 2 studs to help in lining up the lug bolt holes. I have gotten to the stage were if I am going to be pulling a rim that only has lug bolts no studs and nuts that I buy two long bolts with the correct threads and cut the heads off them to use as line up studs, once I have several lug bolts in and snugged up I'll pull the temporary studs out.
Interesting. I have a Kubota with the two lug bolts. I’m not sure I prefer that. I think I like the six bolts best.
We all need to send Tim a bag of zip ties. lol Thanks for sharing Tim. It was an expensive mistake that might help someone else not do the same.
I hope the rest of your week goes much better.
Ha! Yea, I just bought a bag of 1000 black ones :-)
Tim, I've got a new 3033R tractor and the brochure that John Deere puts out as a sales gemic says the 33R comes with "scissor suspension seat, folding armrests and a 15-degree swivel". Tim, I noticed your 3046 has an air-ride seat, did you order it that way or did you add the air-ride seat, also, what was the standard seat that comes with a 3046R tractor from John Deere? Thanks Tim, sorry you made that mistake with the couplers but we all learn from mistakes.
The air ride is an option on the 33r cab, 39r, and 46r. I seem to remember great 33r open station may not offer the air seat: But that may be wrong.
Great Video Tim and Christie!
I always found myself having similar instances like this working for my dad logging.
I would always let them bother me and I would be on the phone and internet trying to fix it as fast as I could before my dad found out.
The triple mid SCV , is referring to the factory installed 3rd function. My 3039R is equipped this way .
I did not know they Deere offered a factory front 3rd function…or is yours simply ran from the rear 3rd SCV?
@@TractorTimewithTim it is mounted at the rear behind the seat . They still call it mid because the control is on the loader SCV with the switch . I did add the line and tube kit from Deere ,after purchase . Comes with hoses to plug in at the 3rd function and adds outlets near the other four by the loader mount . Also has the pipes to run up the loader mast for a grapple or other item . Yours having the mid pto option ,as does mine you get the 3rd function included . They called it mid SCV , even though it is actually behind the seat .
Yes, I have the 3rd function.
Hi Tim, I tried to order from green parts store, and it asked for my local dealer, but I wanted it shipped to my house, any idea what I was doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can give me.
You should be able to select shipping location.
Thanks for your help, will try again.
Try center punching the edges of the pin on your breaker bar it might swell it enough to keep it from falling out. I enjoy your channel.
Like others have said about the torque wrench.the extension really hurts performance. Go to “Torque Test Channel “ on RUclips, they have lots of videos. They actually did a test on how much extensions hurt torque wrench’s. Glad you got it fixed and keep videos coming.
Thanks Tim for sharing your pain with us !! Glad to see you got it fixed. Do you have any thoughts on the location of the JD couplers vs the location of the Kubotas in perhaps further contributing to what happened and the repair process ?? Also, thanks for sharing the "ordering process" with us !!
Hey Tim, Sorry to hear that happenned. Shite happens sir, especially when you use your tools. No biggy. Had my share of them...LOL! You fixed it and we benefit from the mistake. Really appreciate the info and enjoy watching the fix. Thanks for sharing!
The flat jaw knipex do work nice for tightening fittings that are hard to reach.
I am still waiting for my parts order.. I ordered in January. I'm not thinking too highly of deere.
Aren’t those lines constantly under pressure? How did you just remove the end coupler without losing any fluid
No, not under pressure at all. Release any residual pressure by moving the joystick in all 4 directions with the tractor off. This relieves any pressure.
Further, you won’t be able to connect the loader hoses if there is any pressure in those lines. So, use the same truck before attempting to connect hoses to the quick couplers.
Very shocked the Milwaukee didn’t do it. I use my Milwaukee everyday and very rarely does anything else outperform it. It outperforms 2 different 3/4 drive impacts I’ve bought.
Like a hundred others have said, the extension was likely the problem.
Hey Tim, when you add the diverter for the 4th and 5th you remove all those lines and don't re-use them. Probably a few sets sitting around..............I have a set on a shelf in my shop. Mine is a cab...............not sure if open station are different
Ugh! Never thought of asking that!
Wow Tim, I learned some valuable info about finding part numbers in the online Deere catalogue. I’ve ordered from Green Parts Store, but it always took me a while to figure out the parts. This helps tremendously!
Thanks! Glad we could help!
I like seeing the pictures of the part I'm going to order. Seems that Green Parts needs to get their site updated with more pictures. I order from Green parts, but it gives me the feeling, Did I order the correct part.
Pretty hard to have photos of all parts!
Tim, While I do the same and compare prices when you are in the catalog go ahead and change the qty and add the part numbers to the cart. When you are all done you have the list of parts you need along with the qty and prices. Then you can go bargain shopping. You could also print that out and take it to the dealer. However from what I've seen the price at the dealer is usually more than the price if I buy it online and drive over and pick it up.
Great video!!! Thanks for the step by step ordering process.
Anytime you use an extension or adapter with an impact wrench you lose a significant amount of rotational force.
No it doesn’t as this has been proven false
@@carterblann2290 Who has proven it false? I've experienced it myself removing axle nuts. My Milwaukee M18 impact would not loosen the nut when I had a 6-inch extension attached. I removed the extension and attached the socket directly to the gun and it instantly removed the fastener.
Can also confirm that extensions and adaptors drastically decrease the nut busting capability of any impact wrench. Again, from years of personal experience. Some of the force is absorbed by the extension. Badly worn sockets also have a similar effect. 👍🏻
The extra “slop” from the additional coupling is also a detriment.
@@carterblann2290 you are probably mistaking the use of an extension on a torque wrench vs an impact. Torque wrenches are accurate with an extension but an impact loses strength because the impacts are dampened by the torsional flex of the extension. This is the physics that allows the use of calibrated torque stix with an impact.
@ 26.45 "It's funny mechanics seem to be able to do these things by themselves". Seeing where the bracket bolts were somewhat behind the lines it makes the task a lot more challenging. With anything like this the trick is to do whatever the hardest step is likely to be first while everything will move around easier. That means the lines and fittings need to be threaded together loosely first and then get the assembly into place and then tighten everything. In this case, the bracket bolts would probably have to be in place but loose to allow the bracket to move. One final trick is once fully assembled, before any future disassembly is to put a light bend into the lines while they are secured at both ends. Because they are being held the bend results in the tubes bending to the exact shape you need for easier removal and reinstallation in the future.
Farming is fixing, everywhere, ever...
Thanks for showing this, your videos are so informative. The question I have is actually on the tire removal. Since your tires are loaded how hard was it to remove them by yourself? I am asking because I was planning on purchasing the rear remote kit for my 3025e and removing the tire seems to be the best way to access the lines that need to be changed. My tires are loaded with Rimgaurd and I was not sure how difficult they would be to manuover.
The tire will stand on its own. That makes it much easier. If it happens to fall over, it is much more difficult to get stood back up.
As long as it is standing, you can roll it around, and lean it on something.
Not that difficult to handle.
Good morning , God bless you & thank you for sharing
Milwaukee does make a 3/4, and even a monster 1in. impact. possibly a little known fact is the battery size and generation can change the power of the tool. A newer version, or larger battery capacity model can increase the output power of the tool. If you are not breaking equipment, you aren't using equipment. :D I find I end up with similar damage when I either rush or am tired prepping for the task at hand, or when putting it away.
Well Tim, at least we will know what it will cost us in terms of money and time if we make the same mistake you did! I really appreciate your willingness to be vulnerable and showcase your errors and fixes along with your accomplishments bud! It really does help the rest of us noobie tractor jockies out here!
I was a maintenance supervisor and millwright by trade and I found that the Makita impact was the best impact for braking power!
I’m sure you already got comments about it, but my Milwaukee 1/2 impact works great - but not so great with extensions also…
Thank you for the videos Tim
I have a Quick Tip for you..... Don't use an extension with any impact wrench if you want to get maximum torque from it. It acts as a torque limiting "Torque Stick" and the reaction from the extension will reduce the torque proportionally to the length and diameter of the extension.
great video and when did you put the belly mounted mower on the 3046r
Ordered it with the mid mount mower deck.
Tim, why didn't you use the lift and work from the underside?
Good question. I didn’t think I would have good access from the sides where I needed to be. Dunno…not sure Which way woulda been best.
What is it a middle line or regular hose
learned alot from the video thanks for sharing your oops. Keep up the good work.
Nice to see I’m not the only one who makes mistakes at least it’s not as expensive as the mess I’m dealing with right now I had stored all my furniture in a storage building for two years and everything has subterranean termites in it now it’s just a salvage mission to see what’s left
Nice fix. Things happen and that’s just the way it is.
Tim, could you do me a favor? What tires are on this 3046R, and what are the heights of the front and rear tires? I’m guessing you have the 27x8.5-15 on the front and the 43x16-20 on the rear. But, I cannot find their actual heights anywhere online. I have the smaller ones, and am considering getting the taller ones, but want to know how they will effect my overall tractor height.
300 plus for parts is not bad when you saved much more than that by doing the repair yourself. Keep up the good work and excellent videos!
Good reminder for us .When branches/sticks get caught my lines my heart pounds until I clear area. I use plenty of ties. Most due to extra set of lines to the front.
A lot of times when I have to work on something new I will look up the parts and see what all is needed. It’s a great way to find a hidden bolt instead of beating on a part and making it worse. Yea that’s experience expensive experience.
We all have bad luck tractoring and most of us try to hide our mistakes. Not you though and thankfully so we can learn from those mistakes and how to fix and also where to buy parts. You mentioned those floor button thingies are $2 each? I found similar ones I use for my 455 floor mat which is similar in size off amzn under Multi-Gauge Rivet 1/4" Hole in 50pks for like $12. Very similar material.
Ouch....costly in money and costly in time to make the fix. Hope it doesn't happen again. Good to have learned the lesson from you.
I have modified a few crowfoot wrench's to work on close quarter lines.
Wow, that must’ve been a lot of force to bend that bracket. Tim, could you get a 3rd function remote for the rear of the tractor? What is a triple mid scv? Maybe I should google that lol
Tim I have followed your channel when you lived in town with the first 1025r. I saw it when you had the Sabre to mow with. I appreciate the Bible verses at the end.
Thanks for continuing to watch! That was a LONG time ago!
If ya do this again, all windows PCs include a program called Notepad. Can copy paste into that then back to whatever window your searching in, if ya dont wanna type each one next time.
Id you have a torch, you can replace the pin and heat up the ends to red hot, then pound a rivet end. Not hard to do. Can do it on both ends with a new pin. Might be enough metal on your existing pin to expand the rivet flange on the weak side, but if its coming out, i doubt it. Just try not to heat the bar end up to orange and it should be fine. Something like stainless drill rod ought to do. Worst case a graded bolt shank... Like a grade 5 thats not threaded will definitely work. Typically grade 5 is used as sheer bolts, so you probably have a few laying around, only question is, is the unthreaded shoulder long enough to make your pin. Needs to fit snug in the hole and youll want at least an 1/8 of an inch to make your rivet ends to spare. 1/4" would be better. Can always grind off any extra thats bothering you. Hope that info helps. Can cool the pin in used diesel oil or mineral oil. Diesel oil in my experience tempers better.... Itll flame up a little, but ya kinda want it to when you douce it. Leave it in the oil about a minute from orange hot. When ya pull it out, itll still be warm so let it cool about a half hour. Can clean off the scale with a wire brush or wheel. Should bring it back to the same shine on your tool. New pin will have its own color usually, but that ought to fix it from coming out. Had to make new pins for various tools. Handy having a torch layin around.
I did indeed copy to notepad.
I just wanted to show you directly.
Come on...I’m a software engineer :-)
@@TractorTimewithTim fair... First time I've seen your videos
Cool! Welcome to our channel! Thinking of getting a little tractor?
@@TractorTimewithTim i got an old 2n ive been restoring... 1947. Down to just rebuilding the hydraulic pump. Right now its a matter of having the time to do it. Lol