WORST FEAR REALIZED! John Deere 3520 Auction Buy MAJOR ISSUE! Can I Find a Cheap Fix?
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Corroded Axle Housing may sour my auction purchase. Can we find a way to work around this issue without spending a fortune?
Axle Housing Part Numbers: LVU802441 LVU803943 LVU803944
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I own a welding shop and my suggestion would be not to put a bolt in it but since theat mount is a thicker piece just to weld up the hole. Start by welding around the edge of the hole and keep going around until you have the hole filled. Something that works good to clean rust is a air powered needle scaler or needle gun
Admittedly, I know very little about welding, though I have done a little many years ago. I was going to recommend something similar - a sort of dome weld around the top. Seals the hole and makes water flow away from it.
As welder and fabricator I agree 100%. Clean it as clean as possible and weld the holes shut. Since the rest of it sealed itself you shouldn't have any problem.
Something else too if use the bolt you should have sanded all the galvanization off and been wearing a mask when he welded it. I've been welding for years, and that stuff can make you deathly sick.
I would have cut a piece of round stock to fill the hole 3/4 of the way, then welded it in and fill the hole. Less chance of any spatter or slag getting in JMO.
Welding a good fix, I would have used round bar instead of a bolt or circled the hole until closed, descale & paint. No grinding smooth. But everyone is different so what feels right do it
How about a shop vac to remove the majority of the debris then follow up with compressed air. Less mess and better for the allergies. Also a coat of "Rust Reformer" before paint couldn't hurt unless that means an extra trip to town. Nice farm repair. 👍🏼
My suggestion, after the fact of course would be to epoxy a metal plate over the two holes.
Regarding the issue you were having with the weld, the plating on the bolts should have been removed prior to welding. If the plating on the bolt were removed prior to welding, you would have likely gotten a nice weld.
Great job, hats off for tackling it yourself. I’m a beginner welder too. Bit here and there over the years but struggle to get the welder set just right. I hear people say, “ bacon frying) is the sound you want to hear. You mentioned silicone and the first thing came to mind is JB weld! It’s good stuff. I think I would have mixed some up and filled the holes or coated the bolts, put them in and a good coating under the bolt head and up over and around the bolt head. After it cured paint things up. While the tire was off a good cleaning of the linkages and a spray of lube on those linkages. I also was hoping you would dig out an inspection camera to view down that deeper hole before you fixed. I know someone not too far from me that bought a big cab tractor from a local town with lots and lots of rust from a salt spreader, I think I’ll send him this video to bring attention to him on this matter. 👍
The galvanization on those bolts will make the weld harder to perform even for an expert. Grade 8 bolts won’t have the galvanized finish which makes them easier to weld for future reference. I do believe your solution will work fine!
Sometimes we don’t go looking for things that need to be done, those things seem to find us. Also, it appears to me you present tractor and other info in an objective “pros-cons” in a constructive style. Surely we each have our bias view, but you present in a helpful, transparent style. Keep up the good work. Blessings.
Sorry Tim I would not have fixed that the way you did. Like another guy posted the corrosion needs to be dealt with too. I would have unbolted the steel and sandblasted and welded off the tractor. No need to put a bolt in there, weld it and grind it flat so there is no witness line. With the roll bar off you could clean up the aluminum and possibly use a pipe tap to plug the hole. Then paint both parts and put back together.
"Grinder and Paint make me the welder I ain't"
Well done Tim, she obviously needs a little TLC but I think you overall have a decent machine there.
Loved the saying....maybe use it myself
I like the Jb weld idea too. I think what you did would be good though. If you went the flat steel over the housing you would have had more to seal up. I did have a question though about lil Johnny and the increased hydraulic pressure. How does that effect the 3pt hitch lift capacity? I didn’t remember it being discussed in that video I’ll have to go back and watch it
next time grind the plating off the bolts first that would help with spatter and such. If your still worried about leakage slather some JB weld over the top.
Hey Tim! I didnt go through all the comments to see if anyone else suggested it. What about greasing a tap to catch the filings and tap it to fit a pipe plug that you can put some good sealant on. Then you dont have to weld it but would serve the same purpose. Just a suggestion. Keep up the good videos
That's exactly what I was thinking!!
The marine industry uses 3M 5200. Cut off a bolt of the correct size; coat the bolt & the hole with 5200; insert bolt & let set for 48 to 72 hours. It now takes King Kong to pry that cutoff bolt out of there. The black 5200 is better than the white.
And don't get 5200 on your fingers, might take a couple weeks to get off! :) Good stuff!
As good as 5200 is I don't think I'd ask it to do this job personally. Having restored a few boats I do trust 5200 below the waterline for at least a few years. I'm not sure its up for rusty steel in a greasy/oily/muddy environment, maybe im wrong. I'd look at jb weld if pursuing a "tube" based solution first. Welding them closed strikes me as a better fix
@@na-et2gp Grand Master marine tech for 49 years. Alcohol dragster builder/driver for ten. 5200 works on dry concrete, metal, rusty metal, plastics, & lots other. Held back our oil storage tank seam for almost 20 years. Gas didn't even hurt it.
@@robertginther9248 interesting experience you've shared here, that's pretty impressive. I did have an experience where 5200 did release on me that's given me pause, or at least caused me to think, when using 5200. That use case was high gloss polyurethane paint on my console and white 5200 sealing around the base of my hydraulic steering unit. after a few years the steering developed a slow leak which ran fluid over the 5200 for a few seasons. when I finally fixed it I found the 5200 released very easy, basically along the lines of failed caulking.
when the 5200 was originally applied it was freshly painted and a new steering unit. in retrospect this was a job better suited for 4200, at the time I used 5200 above and below the waterline on that boat and have come to regret that decision on a few occasions when undoing that work above the waterline, stuff can really hold well in the right conditions. but for me it showed there are conditions where 5200 isn't the end-all be-all adhesive some report or assume. it can release under the wrong conditions. it's possible I applied the 5200 before the paint fully cured. it's possible I didn't clean the new steering unit sufficiently, so the 5200 failure may have been partially my fault and/or the high gloss surfaces to blame. I believe the leaking hydraulic fluid played a part as well
when one of my hydraulic trim tabs developed a leak the 5200 used there also released fairly easily, putty knife and a few minutes and my tab and hull were totally cleared of 5200. neither were damaged, it wasn't tightly bonded. I cleaned and fixed, re-sealed with 5200 but I'm aware it's able to fail and keep an eye on all of my seals below the waterline.
your reported experience did raise my curiosity, 3m's datasheet does include recommendations along the lines of avoiding alcohol around 5200 when curing. 3m recommends use of a primer for better adhesion (in my case the 5200 failing to adhere well was high gloss paint), recommends use of sandpaper to rough up the surface prior to application. 3m does recommend avoiding grease, oil or other contaminates that may discourage a strong bond. I feel like my experiences with 5200 match well with what's in the datasheet and I'd personally consider other options for the use case presented in this video knowing it's an oily environment.
I will continue to use 5200 for applications below the waterline but I personally don't trust 5200 100% of the time. like any adhesive it's only as good as the surfaces and prep and could fail at some point. I've always used white 5200, sometimes the fast cure version. your comments that black is better than white 5200 def has me curious though, think I'll grab some of the black stuff to try at some point. if the black is a stronger bond than the white we may be talking about different products
I would have been inclined to paint that with some rust neutralizer prior to painting. I've used "Rust Encapsulater" spray from Eastwood in the past and it worked very well.
if I were tackling this, i'd beadblast the rust off, then jb weld (as if it were a liquid gasget) a 1/4" plate to the top - if there's no pressure, ya just need to seal it.
Tim, as an RK24 owner of several years, I completely agree with your views on rebranded tractors. If someone doesn't have the knowledge and means to source their own parts and perform their own repairs, they should most definitely go with a mainstream brand with a good dealer network in their area. My RK (for the most part) has been a little tank, but there have been several issues over the years that RK parts & "service" has been ABSOLUTELY 100% worthless to help with. All tractors will have issues. The owner just needs to decide up front if they want help with them or not. Keep up the great content! 👍
Hi Tim of all the RUclipsrs I watch, I have always enjoyed your videos. No matter what others might say. Keep up the great job of videos.👍
Remove ROPS bolts, raise ROPS frame, insert 300 series SS sheet stock, won't react to aluminum or mild steel. Or just install Dorman expansion plugs in holes? Good luck 🤞 usually the simplest is the best!
Probably not what you want to hear. For me if were my tractor my OCD is telling me I need to see the damage between the mounting plate and the housing. That would guide me as to the repairs I need to make. If that involves some disassembly then so be it. And it's not like it's the only tractor you have so down time wouldn't be a real consideration. My 2 cents.
I would have used Epoxy rather then welding and possibly melting the aluminum housing below. Epoxy is amazing if you have the patience to let it set. I have used it many times on pressurized radiators with great success.
I wonder if you had enough depth in those holes to tap them, and just cut a bolt short and thread it in with some thread sealant.
From experience, once a steel and alum matching point begin corrosion, alum will continue to corrode and flake off, just like battery acid on steel!
Welding will burn the gasket, so there may STILL be a way for moisture to get in.
I wish you luck! This is the main reason I stayed away from rear housings with alum
I know enough about a few things to get myself in trouble. The heat from welding will disturb the “seal” between the pieces. Plus just how compromised is that aluminum housing?
On one of your commentors mentioned the fact that you've got two two dissimilar metals and once the reaction starts between the two it's a no win situation! And the white powder coming out of that hole was probably the aluminum that is breaking down!!!
Looks like a great "bush fix" to me! Considering the tractor age and condition,, it appears to be an appropriate tactic. In the long run, better than trying to fill the holes with silicon or JB Weld that
could have dropped into the case and would be potentially damaging. Plus it would be way easier to get down to good metal on a flat surface than trying to get a clean sealing surface inside the holes.
Get it apart, cleaned then use rust stop, then weld both the steel and aluminum
I'm sure people have already said this but a simple rosette weld would be easy and you could keep grinding it flat and welding until you are happy with the seal. I would also use a rust converting coating and or cold galvanize followed by a uv coating of some sort. Welder settings are different for almost every machine but an easy way to think of the settings is to imagine the setting doesn't consider the thickness of the project but the measurement is how deep the weld puddle will penetrate... so if your material is 1/2" thick and you set the machine to 3/8" setting it wont be capable of fully welding the piece without a groove. The opposite of that scenario is if you set the machine for 3/8" and are welding 1/4" material you might blow through and have a hard time connecting the materials as the metal will be too hot and try to pull itself away from the weld. This might not be the best explanation but its how i think of the settings to set my machine.
im not a fan of welding in situations like that, i probably would have tapped the holes and put in a bolt with thread sealer or similar or made a rubber plug with a small bolt thru it so when tightned it would expand to seal the hole like a rubber freeze plug, but if it works its fine and doesnt have to be perfect (perfect would be replacing the housing which remains a option in the future) ....im curious of you have noticed any milkyness to the hydraulic fluid attributable to actual water intrusion from this area
It is a terrible design to put aluminum next to steel.
Needle scaler and wire wheel would have been your best friend on your fight with rust.
Then I would have welded around the inside of the holes and fill the holes in as it cools.
If you are using flux core welding wire you are going to get splatter.
Good job fixing a problem. Putting steel and aluminum together in a corrosive environment is a bad design. I like the JB weld option mentioned below by Laurie Harding. I might have gone that way too. I am also an beginner welder and am confused at situations like this too where the metal piecs don't fit the standard 'narrative'
Hearing the price and time to change to housings, I think u did well in just welding up the holes.
I'm guessing you'll do both sides? I see, I think I'd find some of that paint that stops rust in its tracks and put it where needed.
I’m hoping you’ll watch the rest of the video?
You may have got this suggestion, but a freeze plug that goes in a block would work. They make them in all different sizes.
I think what you did is more than fine. Also, I look forward to your next video on the new tires.
Where 2 dissimilar metals make contact without a nonmetallic gasket causes galvanic corrosion. Seen copper/steel pipes connected that the copper was paper thin.
I love my Knipex cobra pliers! If you haven’t tried them the Knipex pliers wrenches are fantastic. They have mostly replaced my use of crescent wrenches. You can save some money on the 8 and 10” sizes by going with the Irwin brand but the Knipex are obviously higher quality. I have a set of the 5” pliers wrench and matching cobras that literally live in the tool slots of my cargo work pants.
Personally, I would have just put some JB Weld on the underside of the bolt heads you put in the holes.
Hi Tim,
How about making a plate that will cover the holes that is held down by two of the mounting bolts. Clean up the area, prime and paint it then add a bead of silicone between the new plate and the existing surface. Welding next to the aluminum surface might cause additional problems.
Tim, you do an excellent job explaining all about everything that you do on your channel. I have never seen or felt that you talk down any other brand.
Like you said the John Deere is not new and I’m sure it will be fine.
Yes, I would follow it up with a service later just to make sure you don’t have any metal particles or grinding particles down in there By the way, I have owned John Deere, Oliver, Kubota , Massey Ferguson, Ford, and New Holland, so I’m not stuck on any particular brand. One thing about buying a tractor versus a car. You have to think about 20 years down the road because with a tractor you probably will still have it and the car will be long gone.
I think that you’re one of the most honest and least biased people there is, do you love Deer, yes, but that is not a failing. You are an excellent source of tractor information, you can also tell the amount of time you put into your videos. Tractor guru, all the best to you and yours.
Thanks Dave. A video just came out from TYM/Tony. The FB post said I was ‘gaslighting’. Wow!
Maybe pressure wash the remaining salt residue off.
Slide cage over and aluminum weld holes back. Probably more erosion under plate.
You're fine. Just run it enough to keep any moisture evaporated off. Chances are you got more moisture inside from simple condensation than from leaking. As for the corrosion, I think you are correct in that the mating surfaces are now fused and not an issue unless you needed to separate them. The holes are now plugged. I'm sure there will still be some corrosion due to residual, but it will be minimal and filters and fluid changes will take care of the issue.
BTW, the weld that does the job is the one that is good. Yes, if it was some critical structure, you want the proper depth and joint, but for most projects, this kind of thing is plenty strong enough. I've done who know how many welding projects over the years. A great many are not "the right way", but sufficient for the job.
Heck, I even got pissed at the stainless handle on my grill breaking off the threaded insert and hit it with a standard MIG setup (not a stainless setup) and it's held just fine now at least 15 years. It's all hidden in the handle and can't be seen when bolted up. WIN.
In 2015, I welded a bracket to mount a topcase on my motorcycle that wasn't designed for a topcase. Sure, I way overdid it in material thickness, but even after the abuse I've given it with FAR too heavy loads it is just fine. Pretty welds? Nope. Strong? Seems strong enough.
Only welding I've seen fail was a joint I specifically didn't weld strong. One of those pitching net things at the local youth field was falling apart. The net was fine, but the frame had been left out and all the joints were held with set screws that had rusted badly and most were loose. I broke or cut all the bolts off, welded the main part of the frame, but the foot bars on the bottom, I just tacked in place worried that if I made them strong, the kids would bend the tubes. Well, they both bend the tubes AND broke those welds. I have since added some 3" angle iron and notched it to hold the frame. 1) that isn't going to bend and 2) It's a lot heavier now so it takes a couple kids to pick it up and move it.
You would be ahead if you used POR paint which stops rust in it tracks.
Put in a piece of cold rolled in each hole so they come up flush with the plate, then weld them in. You could use a bolt cut to fit the hole. Do both sides. Sand blast the frames and paint with zinc chromate paint. Paint over that with truck liner.
Use a pneumatic needle scaler (needle gun) to clean the rusted surface. The 235 Epoxy to coat the metal. 235 is a 2 part Industrial Marine coating. Devoe,
Ameron (PPG), International and Sherwin Williams all carry their own "recipe" for 235 epoxy.
Tim, if you were able to put a piece of sheet rubber between the cab support and the axle housing you would seal it and prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.
Or a thin sheet of polyethylene, any type of material to provide electrical insulation.
Keep it up. People need to have as much information as possible. You are adding to that knowledge base.
Sell it and guy a Kubota. :)
Don't worry about the RUclips Karens. You guys do an excellent job providing strait forward information and options. It's much appriciated!
Aluminum? I knew there was a reason why I wouldn't go with John Deere. Thanks for the heads up
Almost all compact tractors use aluminum rear ends now.
Use Urethane Sealant NOT SILICONE. Reason is the silicone will cause the Aluminum to corrode fast. Pull the mount, weld the steel holes closed. Clean the aluminum up. Alodine, prime, and pain-t. Use a plastic shim (thin)not rubber. Carbon in the rubber will cause corrosion.
A carbide burr bit in a diegrinder will clean the aluminum.
PLEASE, Tim! Wear safety glasses when you're blowing that rust dust around!
Nobody likes to find that kind of issue for sure. Not surprising the axle housing is crazy spendy! I would have done the same repair with bolts or a cover plate. Of note: Galvanized hardware does not weld very well. Lots of smoke and splatter. Galvanize is a contaminant when welding. Not good to breathe the smoke either. ☠️ 😳
You did good Mr. Tim!
"Don't get wrapped around the axel." It means don't let viewers comments suck you into darkness. ;). 1 Corinthians 15:33
Auction. Hah. I had as much time as needed to check my kubota l2550D and it's really biting me. Ugh. I'm so over used stuff. Parts costs are ridiculous for tractors. It's not sustainable for owners.
Well mr. Tim this is Casey Holmes been watching your channel for a long time and I am a heart patient they supposed to do a hard cast on me the 27th of this month I just wish I could say a little prayer for me I'm hoping I don't have no blockages but I have been very weak and not been able to get around as much maybe this will fix me up and also I do have a little 1023e John Deere with a 54-inch deck that I really enjoy cuz I enjoy watching your Channel God bless you and your family
Ive really been enjoying watching you get an older tractor and fix it up Tim! keep up the good work!
Thanks. This has been a lot of fun for me. It would be miserable if it were my only tractor, or if I were broke and could not afford the parts…or if I had no interest in or tools for the repairs.
Goes to show that there are different situations for different times.
Tim, don't let anyone get in your head. Even if you're slightly biased, name someone who isn't who also and has a big RUclips presence ? I watch and like Neil messick, but I don't hear him say a whole lot about JD. It's ok. Naysayers are going to be naysayers.
Just a couple of thoughts. I would have used a vacuum in there while digging out the holes.
You now have no way to check for corrosion now, in those holes with the bolts welded in. I think I would have used cork plugs in those holes.
Another thought would be, weld flat steel across those holes, then install grease nipples or oil cups above each hole. Then grease or oil when doing the tractor service.
Just my thought, don’t mean to indicate that how it should of been done.
Any way. Great video.
I'm only a tractor noob, but this makes me happy I ruled out buying a tractor with a cast aluminum transaxle. Other than the ease of machining, I'm not sure what possible benefits there is to an aluminum transaxle. Sure aluminum can be as strong as steel, if there's enough of it, but we're talking about the exact location we want more weight (low, central, CG forward of but near the rear tires). So cast iron/steel can be in nice heavy/generous proportions and it should still cost less than more expensive aluminum, yet be considerably stronger).
Next there's the galvanic/dissimilar metal corrosion potential issue, or in this case major issue. The transaxle is the core of the tractor. It can be hard to access; it's low, usually in the mud/salt/wet, or getting smacked against rocks and other obstacles. So aluminum is less strong here and more vulnerable to the elements.
There's probably more advantages to iron I haven't mentioned, such as threaded connections being stronger for a given size and less likely to have threads crossed/damaged/corroded. Maybe in some rare instances someone would need a little lighter tractor, perhaps for towing or something, but I can't imagine there's much call to have weight shaved off in the tractor's core area. If there's advantages to aluminum I'm not thinking of, perhaps they have to do with some form of bean-counting I'm not familiar with, because I've got nothing and I'm curious why this design decision was made.
I'm too late, but since the holes weren't load bearing, I would have shined everything up, every part that had rust, with a rotary brush, then used a "body patch" of fiberglass, or metal screen over the holes and epoxied it in place good and thick, then paint everything after the epoxy cured.
The extra holes could also be because that part was actually used on numerous models that had different transaxle attachments. You might take a stroll through a tractor graveyard some day and see if some other 2,3,4 series use the same piece. It could be that the same part may have a different catalog number based on series and even a different price.
Your welding skill is far above my zero, the last "welder" I had has an old Sears solid-ox torch some 45 years ago. I cut a few things up with it but never tried to put any back together.🤷♂️
I hope your repair lasts and you have no further problems with your *auction fever* tractor.
would have been easier to grind if you had left the bolts out -lol .my inclination would have been to brake it loose and clean what corrosion i could reach under the ROP then silicon any holes , place a piece of rubber between and then weld the holes shut , maybe over kill but if you plan to keep it for very long?!? yes if you live 15 miles from the nearest town and 45 miles from an atwoods or such store got to keep some extra repairs around!!! rustoleum paint will seal a lot of weld holes!!! A long piece of copper pipe makes a good air gun extension... looks like it will probably fix the problem definitely quicker than messing with the axle tube good luck and "HAVE FUN"
I'd disassemble, clean, gasket and JB or weld the holes. Make sure the JD police dont come for you for trying to repair thier equipment!!
Tim, I have been watching your video for years and I know you are more or less a John Deere person, but that doesn't take away from your videos , or what you show on your channel. Myself, I own a Kubota L3901DT, but I have learned somethings from you.
I think what you did should work to keep dirt and water out of the axle housing as long as there isn't any rust though under the square tube that supports the cab.
Once I retire, I've been kicking around the idea of starting a laser rust removal business. Equipment is expensive, but I think it would take off. Comments are welcome.
Plugging the hole is one issue. I suggest the longer term issue is stopping the galvanic corrosion resulting between the dissimilar metals. Unchecked it will eventually cause the aluminum to disintegrate. As a retired HD truck R&D engineer I have seen many examples of this failure. It is necessary to electrically insulate the two metals by a non conductive barrier. The current layer of rust will not stop further deterioration. A plastic gasket would work or more commonly a layer of Alumilastic is applied between the metals. I have seen examples of ½" aluminum truck frame rails completely disappear where cast iron suspensions brackets attach. Love your channel, good luck.
Tim if you haven't already done all the scraping i have had good luck with adding some constant air pressure to the rear end (5-10 psi) thru the filler cap while you are scraping around. The positive pressure will blow the chips out as you are scraping and scratching. You will have to manufacture a plug for the air to attach to the filler plug. Good Luck!
Any Enginer that wort a dam should have known that dissimilar metals would react to each other...Shame on John Deere! You should ask John Deere how they solved that problem, or if they're even aware of it. Oh by the way I am a John Deere owner of several of john deere's pieces of equipment.
Hi,again just caught you're last comments,you know you cannot bad mouth or insult anyone or company,but you can advise and offer constructive comments,if folk don't like don't watch simple as that
Hey, Here's how I'd go about temporarily repairing it.Drill out the holes a little bigger, get a thousandth bigger steel rod, heat the steel base, and freeze the new tapered plug. Yes. You can get a machinist to cut a plug out. Freeze it in liquid nitrogen. This should seal the hole. Now for the final fix Replace the housing and use a gasket like truck mud flap rubber as a gasket. Between two different metals. Sandblast the rusted area, then apply rust restorer and paint. do both sides. Fun!
More concerned about my 23 year old Cub Cadet 7360SS tractor made by Mitsubishi that has bad tires filled with antifreeze and rusty wheels as to how to go about getting them replaced?
Btw, great site have been following you a few months now as a new larger more powerful tractor is in the horizon for me but must admit the price and quality and integrity of the machines, manufactures and dealers scares the crap out of me.
Now that you painted the frame bracket, I wonder how people will complain that you did not use "Flex Seal"? Personally I would not not have used it.
It looks like the canape frame bottom is drilled for two different axle frames. That would explain the extra bolt holes.
Yes welding the holes closed will help delay any problems.
You asked for comments. I'm commenting before reading the 270 before me. With the idea that I might not get good penetration on the far side of the bolt heads, I would have spent some time pondering the use of a flush steel plug, rather than a bolt head. I'd "just" whip something out on the lathe. (Allowing that I haven't yet seen a lathe in your shop.) Do you have access to experts at Deere who can tell you what is down there? Surely they know you are by now.
Shame on Deere. There are several solutions that wouldn't be all that expensive that would completely eliminate that problem, tight fitting rubber plugs for example. I just had a recent discussion on TBN about the dumb place they put the ignition switches on tractors, cab models in particular, that put the key right in the way if you have to operate the tractor facing backwards, such as with a rear mounted snow blower.
Looks like a good fix to me….worse thing is if it doesn’t work and then you haven’t lost anything. I too would have went with JB weld as I’ve used it on a cracked block and it’s held for 20 years. Wonder if adding one of those electronic anti corrosion devices to frame would help stop the corrosion??
Those are pain areas to keep clean….I use a long air wand and blow em out after use as I blow everything else off.
Grind it clean. Cut a square patch that will cover it. Grind the back side of the patch. And use some automotive 2 part epoxy (panel bond) to put the patch on. No welding required. And will seal it out too
Enjoyed the video! The repair is much better than doing nothing and was done well.
As for you being a John Deer fan. I'm a GM fan and I'm sure I will get some grief about that. John Deer is a good brand of tractors and so are a few others. I watch you channel to see what you and Christy are up to. As well to learn about tractors and implements in general. Thanks for sharing and I'll keep watching.
Just for info,.....you may want to wear a welding skull cap or beanie to protect your head from sparks and splatter while welding.
JB Weld the bolts in place. I don't see why welding is necessary...as there's nothing structural about blocking those holes.
The fix feels like a bandaid to me. However it will probably last much longer than I'd hope to get out of it. The only issue i had with the fix shown was the longer bolt on the first side. When or if you have to replace that housing the bolt will have to be ground off before the pillar can be placed on the new housing. Not a big deal and hindsight is always 20/20. New tires look sharp!!
Tim, I think your fix on the corrosion is as good as you need but I think aluminum corrosion like rust will continue to grow if it is not treated with something that will kill the chemical reaction. In other words in my opinion just covering it even if you keep air and water getting to it will not keep the action from continuing.
Tim, I am looking for some pallet forks to go on my 3033R, preferably good used ones. What length if forks can I use on this tractor? I don't think I want the type that clamps onto the bucket of the loader. Your opinion would be appreciated. I like your honesty and the clear to understand suggestions that you offer. Thanks.
Hi Tim.
Do you think the gasket, O ring or other type of seal is okay between the 2 pieces of metal.
I could not tell from the video, what, if any type of seal might be there.
I enjoy your channel.
I say this nicely, and I mean well.
Do not lose sleep over negative comments. I've seen quite a few of your videos and from what I've seen, you don't present yourself as a deer tractor snob. You talk about what you run and are more familiar with. Even if you did like deer more I haven't seen any indications that you think less of the other brands or of the people that run them.
Blessings to you and your family.
Ed from Chicago! 🙂
R1's are leaps and bounds better anyway. At least they won't slide all over in wet grass or mud like the R4's do. I already tore the pasture up and tore a gate down because of R4's on a smaller tractor because of it sliding everywhere. Even the R4's on our mower cut trenches where ever it goes when it's wet. Put R1's just on the front since the R4's blew out the sidewalls and it doesn't make anywhere near the damage to the ground. Won't own another set of R4's on anything. Way too dangerous and destructive to property... They're only good for hard dry surfaces or dry ground in general.
You said something about there may be a dip in the aluminum housing under the steel plate. If there is then you just covered the hole above it. Can water get through that dip on the inside where the steel frame ends? I hope that makes sense. Maybe you could use a dentist mirror so see if there is a gap from the dip on the inside.
If you have to weld a bolt de-galvanize it by soaking it in a plastic cup of Hydrochloric acid...$3 at home depot for a gallon jug of pool acid no more splatter and less contamination....
aluminum is a great material but sure causes it’s issues in some applications. Electricians use special connections and compounds when joining Al wire to dissimilar materials. I’m sure there’s and isolation coating or something that should have been applied at the factory to these joints.
I know where there’s a 100 hour fire victim 3520 that housing will be fine on as long as open station version is the same.
McMaster care has expansion plugs down to 1/4 pipe hole size not sure how big the holes are.
Tim I did not notice any oil residue on any of your metal, You're tools or shop towels, so I think that you fixed your problem before it was a bigger problem. You will find out when you service the rear end. Thank you and your family.
Best and easiest without welding is tap the holes out to 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 NPT. Apply rtv or loctite to a brass plug and run into the holes
There is a saying about opinions. .won't get into it. .your welding is just fine..there is a saying I always use with critics. .if I'm welding for myself..it suits me...
Devcon epoxy. If it's good enough for John Deere to use on their assembly molds, it's good enough to field fix a tractor's housing. Smear that stuff all over your fix and run her until that corner breaks off.
Fixed is fixed. So good job Tim. Don't worry about the negative comments, some people are always looking for an argument or to gain from using your name to benefit them.
Why on God's green earth would they make that housing out of Aluminum??? Deere should be ashamed!!
The way I would fix it. Remove the cab bolts and jack the cab off just enough to remove the axle hub. Once I removed the hub, grind off any extra rust and see how many pin holes the axle hub has. At that point I’d replace or weld the pin holes in the axle hub and grind it back down and repaint the hub. Reinstall cab frame and weld up that hole and repaint it. Those pin holes are only going to get worse with time. And doing it right the first time is going to save you in the future.
I think it worked just fine. I don’t want you to dinner, steel thicker, steel. That is setting the world record Lee.
I would also be interested in the power rake in your last video. To pull behind the tractor one. If you would let me know if it is available and how much you’re wanting for it. Thank you very much I enjoyed the videos.
Your farm background coming out. I am one myself Tim. Clean it up and cover that hole. It will outlast that machine. Let it eat!
Clean it and make sn aluminum plug then weld. Or if you want to be cheap use JB Weld. But you need to put a thin piece of Rubber between the Alum/Steel to prevent osmosis.
I took a beginners welding class at the local Community college so I'm about as proficient as you at welding. But it's enough to do the things I need to do to keep my equipment operational. That's all we need if we're doing it strictly for ourselves.
Tim, an auto body supplier sells panel glue in a calking tube. It's for sealing body panels at the seams. This stuff flows well ,tools good and is water proof. Fills all voids completely.
Replace the housing. Don't try to "fix" it. Spend the 2400 and get a rubber shim that's paper thin or so and then por54 or what ever that rust prevention paint is and don't worry about it again.
Tim you should really clean the galvanised coating off the bolts
Two reasons one it will effect the weld itself
Two and more importantly galvanise is highly poisonous when burned
You really shouldn’t be breathing in flumes from galvanised coating when burned
Find some cork material and cut to have a thin snug plug. Fill the hole with JB Weld. The cork will prevent the JB Weld from getting in the differential.