maybe a click counter would work. you might be able to incorporate a hit counter for golfing this came to mind because i have one but i’m sure there might be other counters out there: let me know if you find one and decide to use it.
Screw advance box joint jigs (or lynn jigs) are great. Multiple size joints can be created in a single piece. I built one for my table saw a few years back and am very happy with how well it works. Thanks for sharing.
You know, when you have a long distance of all thread to run a nut on, you can hold the nut with a wrench and insert the all thread. Into a drill. Saves a TON of time! Great sho bro!!!
Nice jig. With a tiny 1/32" bit and 1 turn on the crank you could make very tiny box joints.You might have to add springs and lock nuts to preload the sled and the threaded rod so they don't move side to side.
Like the video. Tip on making your joints a little looser is to push on one side of the jig and pull back on the other. I made this jig for my table saw.
That's a nice working jig. As I watched it assisting the cuts I thought that a stop block clamped to the table would better control the depth of each cut.
I used plans from Woodsmith Vol 36 No. 215 to build a router box joint jig. It worked out well on a box I'm making for a set of jeweler's screwdrivers.
Thank you so much for sharing this great jig. I really need to start attempting to make jigs and testing them out haha. I love your channel it's just so informational.
nice one Colin while you were doing it and the use of using two drills I had to show my partner why us woodworkers use two drills but I have always have 3 and there 18 volt brushless .each one cost £350 there dewalt and enjoy having them so I hope that my partner understands now here from you soon Colin Peter fae Scotland cheers and happy new year to you Colin
Hi there, Colin. I am not understanding, when you turn the handle moving the carriage and work piece along, how is it spacing the fingers accurately. PS love your shows.
Good jig for the router table! Always enjoy your projects! I noticed that you were leaning over to see the cut. While this is not anywhere near as dangerous as with a table saw jig/sled, I have seen others mount a small mirror on the front rail so they can see what the blade/bit is doing without leaning over to see it.
I have a question. the joint is going to be very tight because of the accuracy of the system. Since the crank moves 1/16" of an inch with each turn, can you open it a bit by making the first cut, turning the crank just 1/4 turn and making another cut, then turning it back a 1/2 turn to make a third cut. That should open the joint by 1/32 of an inch, which should be enough to get the glue in without showing a gap. Will that work?
nice jig but i noticed that the whole assembly wiggles around when you crank the handle. does this play in the miter slot effect the width of the joints?
Nice Jig Colin. I thought I saw one of the boards catch as the carriage move to our left. May need a slight chamfer on the router slot. Don't you love those little 12v Milwaukee drill drivers. They are my go to for bench work.
The "Read Full Article" link is 404 Not Found as Johnny Fever Just checked again today 08/01/2016 and it's working good I'm pleased to report. thank you for sharing videos much liked here
That seems like a very complicated and unwieldy jig. There are a ton of WAY simpler box joint jigs out there, both home-made, and bought ones. And I couldn't work out how you were setting the distance BETWEEN the routed bits - when you wound the handle. Was that measured, freehand, or did you have a template somewhere that I couldn't see? I'm a subscriber to your channel and love it, but this one just seems like so much trouble to build and to use. Personally, I just use the Rockler Box Joint Jig - not expensive and works very easily.
The number of times you wind the crank governs that, and it depends on the pitch of the threaded rod. If you use metric fine thread, 1.0 pitch, one turn would move the carriage one millimetre.
I really Ike this jig. Can you post a link for the plans? My hearing is limited, and I can't catch what you are saying who designed the jig. Thanks!! Nice job, by the way!
I watched your shoe box vid, then this one. And. I still can't see how this jig works. I see you turn the crank between every cut, but how are you getting accurately spaced cuts? It seems like it would be prone to be off. I know I'm just missing something. ????
He used a 3/8" - 16 threaded rod. Each turn of the handle is 1/16"-he just counted the number of turns. 8 turns is 1/2"-perfect spacing for a 1/4" bit. I use 3/8"-16 rod for a lot of my jigs since it is easy to figure how far it moves per turn.
Just finished the jig for my table saw and realized, how is the clamp attached to jig? See bolts through, but not in parts lists or in the video. I see it showed up in the end. Except for that it works great!
+Norman Ridgley Added 5/16" insert nuts and then a knob to faster the clamp on. Attached a 2" wide board on the back behind the carriage. The added a 18" ruler on the back and a "needle" to back of carriage as a check on position. Reduces miss counts.
Excellent work and great idea.!! I can not speak English well, I sent request to join your page via "contact us", but do not know if it should be. I really like your projects and explanations. I learn a lot by watching. With the little language that English I know. Thanks in advance or your attention, greetings from Pyebla, Mexico.
it is a great thing why not to add miter gauge in the top of this tool to help you calaprate the distance while dadoing? or calaprate by mitering the numbers of turns
+david galeski Yes, thanks ... have seen that. It's a pretty cool adaptation of the same "threaded rod" technology but I don't recall seeing it used in any builds, I will have to go back and look ... thanks David.
This can still be improved because your operation takes lots of energy (too many times turning) and can be more accurate! Pls study some other methods! TKS
Hi your safety on the circ saw is very good but on the band/scroll saw you should be showing the same safety rules should you not? I have noticed this all over youtube, I have worked in a woodshop, as you know bandsaws will also take off a finger, please explain the dangers, you filmed your guard way to high on the bandsaw, I love your videos so just pointing out that the same care needs to be shown across the whole use of machines for the novice. so sorry to knock you, honest, kev
Good stuff. I built one for my tablesaw and can't live without it. Providing you don't lose count of the turns it's perfect.
+Paul St George Yeah, I have lost count in the past ... not fun :)
maybe a click counter would work.
you might be able to incorporate a hit counter for golfing
this came to mind because i have one but i’m sure there might be other counters out there:
let me know if you find one and decide to use it.
Screw advance box joint jigs (or lynn jigs) are great. Multiple size joints can be created in a single piece. I built one for my table saw a few years back and am very happy with how well it works. Thanks for sharing.
+John Gilson Yes, that's the nice thing about woodworking, lots of different ways to accomplish the same thing
How can anyone give this a "thumbs down"? this is an awesome video.
+Josh mork Appreciate it, thanks Josh
That is a great jig to add to the arsenal Colin. Simple and straight forward, just the way I like them to be.
Derek
+GiddyUp994 Thanks Derek
That is a very interesting and clever way to make the box joint, will give it a try. Thanks for sharing Colin
+Ron C Yes, it's cool idea, wish I had invented it
Great jig, never would have thought of using a router for that. Thanks Colin!
LOVE the show Colin!!! I can’t make enough stuff FAST enough!!! lol
Nice Jig, Colin. Another one for my must make list of Jigs. Thumbs up.
+OG Timbercraft Thank OG
have a good year. the box joint looks good, I really need one. Ciao.
+EsseAkka LAB carpentry workshop Thanks for commenting
You know, when you have a long distance of all thread to run a nut on, you can hold the nut with a wrench and insert the all thread. Into a drill. Saves a TON of time! Great sho bro!!!
Nice jig. With a tiny 1/32" bit and 1 turn on the crank you could make very tiny box joints.You might have to add springs and lock nuts to preload the sled and the threaded rod so they don't move side to side.
+Alex kowalski That is true ... I thought about that but have not tried it yet
Like the video. Tip on making your joints a little looser is to push on one side of the jig and pull back on the other. I made this jig for my table saw.
That's a nice working jig. As I watched it assisting the cuts I thought that a stop block clamped to the table would better control the depth of each cut.
This is a great jig for the router table, nice build Collin.
I used plans from Woodsmith Vol 36 No. 215 to build a router box joint jig. It worked out well on a box I'm making for a set of jeweler's screwdrivers.
+Brendan Hay Good to hear, thanks for the tip
Thank you so much for sharing this great jig. I really need to start attempting to make jigs and testing them out haha. I love your channel it's just so informational.
+The Russian Woodworker Thanks RW
I have been wanting to make one of these and I have my own version but I like this one better,thanks
+John Stephanites Hi John ... yes I have other versions of this too, but I am liking this one the best
nice one Colin while you were doing it and the use of using two drills I had to show my partner why us woodworkers use two drills but I have always have 3 and there 18 volt brushless .each one cost £350 there dewalt and enjoy having them so I hope that my partner understands now here from you soon Colin Peter fae Scotland cheers and happy new year to you Colin
+Peter Haughton Thank Peter ...
Hi there, Colin. I am not understanding, when you turn the handle moving the carriage and work piece along, how is it spacing the fingers accurately. PS love your shows.
Your tips are very valuable. Ensures a successful project.
The best video for me!! Very very nice! Thank you very much!! God bless you for showing video!!
Good jig for the router table! Always enjoy your projects!
I noticed that you were leaning over to see the cut. While this is not anywhere near as dangerous as with a table saw jig/sled, I have seen others mount a small mirror on the front rail so they can see what the blade/bit is doing without leaning over to see it.
+Rob Harrod Yeah, not sure why I was doing that, I like the mirror idea though
WoodWorkWeb I was at the Dollar Store just today and I saw a small (2.5" round) self-adhesive mirror that would have been perfect for your jig!
a rear view mirror on a jig? haha
that’s cool
a rear view mirror on a jig? haha
that’s cool
I have a question. the joint is going to be very tight because of the accuracy of the system. Since the crank moves 1/16" of an inch with each turn, can you open it a bit by making the first cut, turning the crank just 1/4 turn and making another cut, then turning it back a 1/2 turn to make a third cut. That should open the joint by 1/32 of an inch, which should be enough to get the glue in without showing a gap. Will that work?
nice jig but i noticed that the whole assembly wiggles around when you crank the handle. does this play in the miter slot effect the width of the joints?
Esse jig é muito prático e dá segurança ao operador. Muito bom mesmo.
Nice Jig Colin. I thought I saw one of the boards catch as the carriage move to our left. May need a slight chamfer on the router slot. Don't you love those little 12v Milwaukee drill drivers. They are my go to for bench work.
+WoodRodent Yes ... probably a good idea
pretty cool. gives me a few ideas. Thanks for making this video.
+Al Smith There ya go ..
The "Read Full Article" link is 404 Not Found as Johnny Fever
Just checked again today 08/01/2016 and it's working good I'm pleased to report. thank you for sharing videos much liked here
+Mcleod Duncan
No problems here.
+Ivan Freely I Just checked again today 08/01/2016 and it's working good I'm pleased to report. thank you for sharing videos much liked here
I think I got it but did you put bushing in under flat washer and screws, seemed fast I missed it?
Hey Colin. good idea and well done your project.
Congrats.
L.ZACCARO
+ZACCARO Custom Things Thanks, as always, for your comments
Thanks for another great vid my friend
+Matt Diresta Thanks Matt
That seems like a very complicated and unwieldy jig. There are a ton of WAY simpler box joint jigs out there, both home-made, and bought ones. And I couldn't work out how you were setting the distance BETWEEN the routed bits - when you wound the handle. Was that measured, freehand, or did you have a template somewhere that I couldn't see? I'm a subscriber to your channel and love it, but this one just seems like so much trouble to build and to use. Personally, I just use the Rockler Box Joint Jig - not expensive and works very easily.
Great jig
Great video. How do you get accurate spacing?
The number of times you wind the crank governs that, and it depends on the pitch of the threaded rod. If you use metric fine thread, 1.0 pitch, one turn would move the carriage one millimetre.
Good work. Thank you very much .
+Liviu Tigau Thanks for commenting
Hello Collin , great vid as usual, you are a highly skilled craftsman. would you do a vid on hand cut dovetails
+Pierre Rousseau Thanks Pierre, to be honest, I am not that good at hand cutting dovetails ... will consider your request though :)
I really Ike this jig. Can you post a link for the plans? My hearing is limited, and I can't catch what you are saying who designed the jig. Thanks!! Nice job, by the way!
Looks like the boards tipped at the 11:20 mark...did that make it out of square or at an angle?
+tom vanfleet I think you might be correct but they still worked out
I watched your shoe box vid, then this one. And. I still can't see how this jig works. I see you turn the crank between every cut, but how are you getting accurately spaced cuts? It seems like it would be prone to be off.
I know I'm just missing something.
????
He used a 3/8" - 16 threaded rod. Each turn of the handle is 1/16"-he just counted the number of turns. 8 turns is 1/2"-perfect spacing for a 1/4" bit.
I use 3/8"-16 rod for a lot of my jigs since it is easy to figure how far it moves per turn.
nice instructional video.
+Just Square Enough Thanks for commenting
Really enjoyed that, Colin. I wasn't aware of the Lynn jig. Does that rod have 16 threads per inch?
+Michael Anderson Yes, that is correct
I have no desire to make box joints with a router. Is there a video for the original using a tablesaw?
Just finished the jig for my table saw and realized, how is the clamp attached to jig? See bolts through, but not in parts lists or in the video. I see it showed up in the end. Except for that it works great!
+Norman Ridgley Added 5/16" insert nuts and then a knob to faster the clamp on. Attached a 2" wide board on the back behind the carriage. The added a 18" ruler on the back and a "needle" to back of carriage as a check on position. Reduces miss counts.
Excellent work and great idea.!!
I can not speak English well, I sent request to join your page via "contact us", but do not know if it should be.
I really like your projects and explanations.
I learn a lot by watching.
With the little language that English I know.
Thanks in advance or your attention, greetings from Pyebla, Mexico.
+Francisco Corona Thank you Francisco
THANK YOU
+david galeski Thanks David
Good video, but why can't dado blades be sold in Europe?
+Steve Von Bokern Not sure ... probably a safety issue.
thanks again
+louis scott Thanks Louis
it is a great thing
why not to add miter gauge in the top of this tool to help you calaprate the distance while dadoing?
or calaprate by mitering the numbers of turns
+Amr Megahed Good points, thanks for the suggestions
Thanks for reply
I just want to give you a hand
i just going to build a full size router table i think thats a jig I have to build : )
Instead of T-nuts, you could use threaded inserts seated flush, and save yourself some time and effort.
I would like to ask you "May you prepare some project about big bird feeder?"
+Gökhan Şekerci I will see what I can do with that in the future, thanks for the request
Great!!
Ficou bom !!
+lucas regis cardoso Thanks for commenting
nice!
+Didier Valencia Thanks Didier
I couldn't find those plans!
+Turki Umairan I added another link to make it easier, check it out now
+WoodWorkWeb Thank you very much
SEE JAY BATES MORTISE JIG AND ROUTER Dado jig try to help
+david galeski Yes, thanks ... have seen that. It's a pretty cool adaptation of the same "threaded rod" technology but I don't recall seeing it used in any builds, I will have to go back and look ... thanks David.
This can still be improved because your operation takes lots of energy (too many times turning) and can be more accurate! Pls study some other methods! TKS
Hi your safety on the circ saw is very good but on the band/scroll saw you should be showing the same safety rules should you not? I have noticed this all over youtube, I have worked in a woodshop, as you know bandsaws will also take off a finger, please explain the dangers, you filmed your guard way to high on the bandsaw, I love your videos so just pointing out that the same care needs to be shown across the whole use of machines for the novice. so sorry to knock you, honest, kev
I don't and the stand the functionaly
Great!!