You need your own show on HGTV. My husband and I watch your videos a lot. He is a 3rd generation finish carpenter/contractor but he left the family business to become and officer. We are about to buy a home and fixer upper. So he has been refreshing his mind by watching you. I can see the excitement in his face. So your videos are awesome and have restored the zeal for carpentry he put ob the back burner. Thank you Jeff!
Jeff - thats great information. I’m now on 27yrs of my original deck and have just replaced a few boards. You’re correct, take care of the deck in a timely manner and it will last. Thanks for the video.
I have a covered large deck for about 10 years. I have never treat it before but it has held up to the element pretty well, with the exception to the railing which I plan on replacing with modern rails and balusters instead of lattices. Per store recommendation, I purchased the Olympics Maximum stain and sealer (semi-tran.) After testing it on piece of wood, I realized that the stain (or more like paint) stays thick and will be really tough to remove in the future. So I came to the internet for assistance and found your video which addressed my concerns. I'm now changing plans from stain to sealant only for all the deck boards, I might stain the railing with some of the 5 gal stain that I already purchased just so the dark color balusters don't look too odd around bare wood. Thank you for sharing your video. please comment on the plan. (+liked+subscribed)
So happy I found your videos... very informative. I don't have any questions at this point, I just wanted to thank you for taking the time in answering everyone's questions and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for all the great videos - much appreciated. It’s especially nice to see them come from someone local. I am in the process of replacing my 25-year old 5/4 cedar deck, which went through decades of the staining woes you describe. This time around I’ll be using Sienna treated 5/4 decking (unless I win a lottery and can afford capped PVC) and I really like the idea of waterproofing instead of staining. Life is too short to repeat the staining nightmare again. Aside from looking cracked and terrible now, my current deck is also failing at the butt joints where the boards were screwed from the top into the joists. This time around I’ll be using the Camo fasteners you used in another video, which should add to the looks and to the lifespan of the deck. I can’t make out which specific Thompson's product you are using in the video. Thompson's seems to have several deck water proofers in a similar can with the green label and with similar names. Is yours the “Thompson’s Water Proofer Plus Clear Wood Protector”? Thanks.
Glad to hear from someone in Ottawa, We are always here to help. If you ever need anything just comment on a video and we will get back to you in the same day. Cheers.
Thank u!!! Great video!!! I hate stains!!! Our deck has peeled and peeled year after year. Our new part of the deck will be sealed with a cedar sealer!!! Here in Winnipeg our deck stain doesnt survive the winter. How often should we have to re-apply a sealer like thompsons? What would you recommend to protect cedar fence sections? Love your channel!!! So mich valuable info!!! Thx!!!
We have a nice Press Treated wooden fence around our small back yard. We too have been advised on just using clear oil based sealers but believed the finish was just a little too light; sealers do give it a slightly darker wood finish, just slightly. So what we were advised to do (from an old school construction guy) was to first apply a regular oil base wood stain; it's not a semi-transparant or covering wood protection but just wood stain (Minwax). Then after drying, coated that with an oil based clear wood protectant (Olympic Maximum in this case) . As you suggest, we simply re-coat every 2-3 years and enjoy the slightly darker "Early American" maple like stain. Yes, the clear sealer does darken that slightly more and is why we didn't apply a stain too dark. Works just like you said, only a maple like darkness! This spring we reapply, but just two questions: should we just use a polyurethane at this point and get many more years (& how many) in between re-applications? Whats your experience with that outdoors on a vertical surface? Cheers to your great advice!
Hi Jeff, first of all thank you so much for all your good advice! So far you helped me renovate a whole bathroom, completely stripped it to the studs and rebuilt completely. Even my wife is happy and that says a lot! I have a question about using Thompson water seal on my deck. Years ago when I built it, I put Cetol SRD (never listen to your brother in law...) over the years I must have applied 6 coats and now it just isn’t looking good anymore. I used a stripper product from Benjamin Moore and removed most of it. I am down to the wood now and I just need to sand it down further. After watching your video I like the idea of Thompson water seal. In your opinion, can I still use it even if the deck had a coach of stain on it but it was removed?
Jeff I have watched a lot of your videos and I am very impressed. I am a high end residential painter with 30 plus years experience. Thompsons water seal is a no no. It just sits on the surface of the wood and when it wears off it wears off unevenly leaving patches. A deck treated this way can never be finished with anything else ever again. What you want is a clear or transparent stain that penetrates the wood creating a permanent bond. Just like you would prime bare wood with a special product you should not put down a "top coat" over bare wood. While Thompsons water seal repels water pretty well it does not bond to the wood
we recommend spraying a new coat after a quick deck brush cleaning if necessary about twice a year. this way you never have to sand again. all stains need maintenance and they all need to be removed before doing anything new.
A deck treated with Thompson's can certainly be brought back and finished with another product. As an owner of a deck restoration business I personally don't care much for Thompson's for the reasons you listed above. But with a good chemical stripper and pressure wash (3200psi or stronger) and sanding it can be taken off and refinished with a new product.
What if I don’t want to sand a single plank ? What if I only power wash the old ass deck & lay some Thompson’s clear sealer down ? Would that be ok ? I will let ya know because that’s my plan ! Thanks for sharing this video , it’s the only one I found informative
We build our deck last August with Brown Pressure Treated Wood and we are preparing to seal it for the first time before summer hits (if only the wheater can be good for a couple of days straight). We are thinking of using Thompson Waterseal Clear Wood Protector and are wondering your suggestions on what method to use in order to seal the deck? Paintbrush and roller vs sprayer? Spayer seems quick and easy but maybe I'm missing something. Thanks
Nice videos. I really like all that you talk about and showing step by step the techniques you use and recommend from sheet rocking a wall to deck maintenance and more . Thanks alot.. 🚒
i am boston carpenter in the union so i do alot of commercial buildings so all this residential content is a wonderful way for me to expand my skill set thank you for the video it was very helpful
Hey Jeff -- I built my deck back in the summer of 2013 but I never sealed or stained the pressure-treated wood. Do I need to do anything else other than what you recommend in this video? (Pressure wash, belt-sand, seal)?
I got a pine deck with a dark stain/paint on it. Thinking about sanding it off completely. I don't think a power washer would strip it or if it did, I would have to sand anyways... Thinking about putting on TWP series 100 on it with a little color. They say you can apply it right over it again if need be- no sanding necessary. Any advice on that particular stain? Have you used it before? Thank you for the videos. Been learning a lot!
Good job, open mind to help people instead promote the product like others, we need more guru like you in the internet help people instead sell! Thanks!
Useful video, thanks. You’ve convinced me that a clear coat sealer is the way to go over staining. A few questions… my deck is a bit more weathered it seems. (1) Do you recommend the use of a deck cleaner as a first step, or do you think that one pass with the pressure washer should suffice? Also a little confused, around the 2:30 mark you say that you don’t have to belt sand the deck… then a few minutes later you talk about the different options for sanding :) I think my deck - in the state it’s in - needs a sanding. Which leads me to my 2nd question - (2) is belt sander the way to go, or do you think one of those larger random orbit floor sanders (with a small orbital sander to address tougher to reach areas) is ok? My deck is pretty big, so any way to cut time would be great. Thanks!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Your videos have already helped me out a lot. I'm doing a lot of home renovations. Painting walls, painting trim, going to paint cupboards, tearing up old carpet and putting down vinyl plank flooring. I've got one and half of two bedrooms done. Then it's to our kitchen/main living area. I have a toddler in tow the whole time and my six year old helps where he can. I'm about to see if your channel has anything on stairs. We are taking the carpet off of those too and they look ugly underneath.
Getting ready to restore my deck. I do need to replace a few boards and railings which I will do first. A few questions. 1. Should I wait 3 weeks to start the restoration process if 1/4 of my deck is new wood? 2. If I power wash the deck do I still need to sand the deck 3. Do I need to buy any cleaning products or will power washing and sanding be enough. Thanks! I really appreciate your videos
My deck was built by our contractor two years ago. We plan on sealing with Thompson this spring/summer. That being said, should there be any concern about the type of lumber that was used to build the deck? I have no idea if its cedar or something else. Does sealing basically cover all types of deck wood? Thank you! I love your videos. I have watched probably 100 hrs of your work while working from home the last few weeks.
I bought a house with big wooden deck(no pool) but someone painted it who knows when and paint is peeling really bad, like it was bad paint, not the right kind or something. Should I still just but pressure washer and Thompson weatherproof fluid?
I built a 16'x24' deck last year following your videos and those of Shannon from the HouseImprovement channel - thank you guys. My deck passed inspection with flying colors and it saved me over $8k+ in labor cost. Now I need to seal it, so I'll follow your advice with the Thompson product.
In my opinion Sikkins is simply the best deck stain on the market. The SRD is a 1 coat oil based hybrid that will hold up to the rain, snow and UV degradation! Its not cheap but well worth it
Would like to hear your thoughts on stripping paint off a deck and returning it back to just a clear/natural coating. Will most of the paint come off with a pressure washer?
What do you think of Ready Seal as a spray-able oil based alternative sealant? It is supposed to last 2-3 years between applications instead of an annual refresh. It does not build up on the surface like most big box stains. I have been using it on my siding but am curious about deck use. It's really easy to work with and affordable in 5 gallon drums.
Had porch paint on my deck...after 5 years it needs to be repainted...went to Home Depot to get some more...was going to just give it a good clean, sand and repaint. When I asked for it, Home Depot convinced me to buy $50 jugs of stripper (which only cover about 100 sq ft) a $50 jug of cleaner and Behr solid stain...ugh! After spending 2 hours just trying to strip a small area making a complete mess the stripper barely did the job and everything is soaking wet. Had a general contractor come by to quote some other stuff and he said a belt sander would have the entire deck stripped in about an hour...and then would just need a good sweep / damp mop and ready to paint...I like your idea of Thompsons Water Seal...wish I had seen your video before going to Home Depot...thank you!
Great Video. One of the best on the topic. Just finished my deck with Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil, natural color. What’s your opinion of that product?
I just discovered your video and found it incredibly helpful! I thought the deck at our new house needed to be replaced, but I power washed all the moss and goo off and discovered the wood is actually in great shape. It's early Fall, and I worry I won't have a dry and warm enough day to seal it before winter. Can I wait until spring?
Jeff, awesome video and great tips. My 800 sq. ft. deck is 26 years old and this will be my 4th summer with this house and I haven’t done anything to the deck since. It seems because of all the coats of paint or maybe improper spacing between boards there’s no gaps between them. Over the years water has been pooling in the center of the deck due to no drainage and I have been sweeping it away every time. The paint has been pealing and there’s been areas of bare wood for the last 2 years. I would like to tackle this project this spring. Here are my questions: How do you know if a board needs replacing if it’s been compromised due to rotting? Is pressure/power spray enough to remove old coat or do you also need paint/stain stripper? I would like to get this done in the most efficient way possible. I am very handy around tools and not scared of hard work. Wes
Hi Jeff, Sorry if you've already answered this. in the video, you mention sanding the deck if you have paint on it, which I do. Many coats of pealing paint. Do you recommended using paint stripper first or just go ahead and sand it starting coarse? Or maybe just the pressure washer could work? I might have lead paint in a sub coat some where under there so I'm not a 100% on sanding it, since I have two young children. Thanks
Love your channel and all of your videos. Question for you... How do you fix wood deck posts, the weight bearing vertical deck supports that start cracking? Can I use resin glue? What do you recommend?
I have a 14 year old, great condition wood deck on my balconies at my house. The wood has never been stained or finished in any way. So this week, the wood was treated with conditioner to bring it back to life (Cabot product), pressured washed and now need to know which stain to use, Oil base or Acrylic based. FYI, I live in Florida where the sun bakes everything! So, I wanted to use a oil based Cabot's transparent stain and my painter bought a acrylic product. Even though I have $450 in 2, 5 gallons of buckets, I'm ready to ditch what I have and use a different product or us a Cabot's oil based product. Since we have no plans on selling this home, I want my product to last a really long time. Please send me your thoughts when you have time, Thanks So Much, Nickie
Love your videos! I'm struggling with what to do with my large deck. We have a large above ground pool. It's 20'x40'. A deck was built around all sides. The deck dimensions are 40'x50'. Treated deck boards. We tried staining it a year and a half ago after power washing but the stain did not last. Many boards are starting to get in bad shape. I'm considering replacing the deck boards with Trex but it's very expensive. I'm estimating it will cost close to $10,000 even if I do all the work. The deck sub-structure is in excellent condition. Now I'm re-thinking about power washing again and replacing any bad boards. I don't like the idea of a clear sealer or semi - transparent stains as the new boards won't look good with the old ones. Sherwin Williams makes some great solid deck stains that we've used on some rentals and after 3 years they still look great. What are your thoughts Jeff?
I would go cedar. only $4000.00 and worth it. you can clear coat it twice a year without the hassle and it will always look great. Also great for resale. Cheers!
Can you move old boards from the sides to replace the damaged boards? Then put the new boards on the sides. This will keep the main areas looking the same. Just an idea
I like the way you explain it. I have a qst tough: when you do a job like that, you restore the whole top of the deck. But what do you do with the underneath of the deck? Do you do the same thing to protect it against the humidity comming from the ground? Tks.
This is what I put on my deck!!! yay... Thomson Water seal ... not to mention much much cheaper than any stain ... i get a 5 gallon Thompson for about 40$ ... stains go for about 130 or more! Win Win!!!
Btw +Home RenoVision DIY ... after checking your videos last summer on decking, here's what I came up with I thought you'd like to see it: Before: s7.postimg.org/x5z9jdsiz/IMG_20170620_112757.jpg s7.postimg.org/eg7a2mzsb/IMG_20170620_112817.jpg s7.postimg.org/8zom896ej/IMG_20170620_192520.jpg After: s17.postimg.org/58tu4sh6n/20049540_10159524235625131_1637857355_o.jpg s17.postimg.org/4kkzluigv/0710171520.jpg dha4w82d62smt.cloudfront.net/items/0V0y0h0U0g1L0h2g300Z/Image%202018-02-05%20at%201.04.02%20PM.png?X-CloudApp-Visitor-Id=819fdda56280ca6dace0ef7883cce40f&v=1e9503c5 I used the Water Thompson Sealer ...cheaper and less maintenance :)
Any concerns about side edge of board and underside? Also, what wears the sealer down? Is it just human and pet activity on the top? or does the sun and snow and rain also take their toll?
Great video. We just bought a home with an aging deck that was built out of thick heavy duty boards and this is on my to do list. Two questions for you, first, what are your thoughts on the stuff used to seal and fill cracks in old wood decks? Second, is it better to brush on the water sealer or can it be sprayed on? Thanks in advance. Love your videos.
If you are thinking of using any kind of filler then you probably need to go with a semi or solid stain. test it out first but you will probably get really light colored filler marks after sealing. The sealer can definitely be sprayed. It has no pigment and can be overlapped without any visible lines. great for spindles and hard to reach areas or just a quick coat near the end of summer to get a great seal again.
So in the beginning of the video you say to use a pressure washer or the only other option is using a belt sander and that's 50-60 hours worth of work. Then later you say "when it comes time to sand your deck..." So are you saying if you pressure wash you don't have to then belt sand? Or just that you will have less sanding to do? And I currently have Behr DeckOver on my deck which I want to remove. Any tips on that? Thanks, love your videos.
I'm pressure washing today id like to seal it like you said....what temperature does it have to be for sealer to be able to dry effectively as I have short window of no rain and 70 degree weather days for drying...
I went to Lowe’s (I live in GTA) to grab a sealant last week. The Thompson’s sealer appeared to be the cheapest option, but the employee told me they get negative feedback on this product because yellowing and you have to reapply it every 6 months. So I ended up getting a water based more expensive sealer that she recommended. What do you think?
Just spent all day powerwashing off 5 to 7 years of old stain and mold and dirt. The deck looks like new, wow. Was looking thru video on propper next step. Didnt want to put stain down just keep it as natural as possible. Came across your video. Tou?suggest with facts about juat sealing your deck and the difference between water and oil sealers. Im sold on using oil and just using a clear sealer. Thanks
Another excellent video ! I built a new deck this spring and I've been waiting for the rain to stop long enough to dry out before sealing with the Thompson clear coat product. Looking forward to your upcoming landscape video . Retaining walls and patio stones = heavy ! ( Matt and Nate ? ). I hope we get some dryer weather soon !
Great tips! I am building a floating ground level deck using pressure treated sienna brown. Part of it could be partially underground. Would you still recommend using a clear coat sealer? I hear the sienna brown will look like cedar after it dries out. Let me know what you think. Keep the videos coming
Hi Jonathan, The color does brown out after a few weeks. I still recommend a sealer to keep the wood from cracking which leads to premature rot. but feel free to let it change color first. Cheers!
Great video! I just stained my deck before watching this. Is it too late to do the right thing? Can I now switch to yearly clear coatings? Will that keep the color?
I have a 1200 sq. ft. pressure treated deck, about 4 feet off the ground on average, that I applied cabots oil-based "new redwood" stain to about 12 years ago and I haven't kept up with maintenance and now it needs alot of work...(about 25% of the deck boards need to be replaced but all the railings are in good shape). I plan on power washing it this spring to try and restore. Since its current color is redwood(cabots), would you make any recommendations as to how I should proceed after I replace the damaged boards and power wash? i.g.: the same cabots new redwood? Another product?
just put some green oak sleepers (I think you call them ties, freshly cut) down for stairs and retaining wall in my garden. Climate is pretty wet (UK) and I have been advised to leave them to weather and bed in before I treat them. These sealers you talk about - do you think I need to apply them after the weathering period (some say it takes up to a year) - even to a hardwood like oak?
Sadly in the UK we only mainly find Pine for use on decks, unless you want to spend double or even treble x the cost on Oak, or Cedar. Not really a wood that simply sealing brings the best out of. Here we tend to stain and need to do at least every other year, if not yearly.
Great video! Thanks for the info. Question: I have an old deck that has semi-transparent stain on it. It looks weathered and is in need of some attention. If I understand you correctly, to refinish it I should sand all that off and either re-stain or just apply water seal?
I have a screened in, covered deck. While the deck boards and framing were sealed with a darker brown opaque, waterproof stain from Behr, it appears that the staining was done after all of the framing and screens were installed, and the end grain of the deck boards on the sides of the deck were not stained or sealed at all. Because the sides of the deck are flush with the roof and there is no overhang, rainwater accumulates here and seeps into the wood through the endgrain of the decking. The problem is compounded because the decking cannot dry out due to a lack of sun, minimal ventilation with the deck a foot off the ground, and the fact that the rest of the boards are otherwise encapsulated in waterproof material. This has led to about 2 feet of decking rotting from the inside out along the sides of the deck. So my question is threefold: First, is there any disadvantage to switching from the previously applied opaque stain to a transparent sealer like Thompsons, assuming all rotted decking is removed and the boards are sanded down. Second, for longevity, would you recommend replacing the rotted deckboards with cedar or PT lumber, or does it not matter so long as we properly seal the endgrain this time? If I go with PT, I would stick with a solid color stain. Finally, because the parts of the deck most exposed to the elements are difficult to access for sealing with a brush or roller, what can we do to maintain the seal on the endgrain over time? I do note that the endgrain is covered by a large skirt board, so it would be difficult to reapply the stain to the endgrain every few years after installing. I realize this is a ridiculously detailed question, and that my deck violates just about every rule you have for deck planning and construction, particularly with respect to ventilation. Unfortunately, we can't really change this because the deck is level with the exit door from our kitchen. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, and keep the great videos coming. Best channel on RUclips.
I have a large pressure treated deck that is about five years old. There is an existing semitransparent stain to the deck. Can I get away with just cleaning the deck and applying Thompson’s water sealer or do I need to clean and restain the deck? If I need to restain it, do I need to go to a solid color stain or try to find a matching semitransparent stain?
Just brought a house with a large deck. The deck is weathered and has never been stained nor sealed. Understanding that I need to power-wash the deck what would you suggest I use? I am afraid that if I just seal the deck it will not look as good as a color stain would. Thoughts??? Thank you
So, I have the new pressure treated wood - looks very nice so I’m definitely going to go for just sealant - problem is, the deck wasn’t finished until mid August - it’s now October, and it keeps on raining outside. Is there going to be any harm in waiting until next spring to seal the deck should the weather not improve over the next month?
I have stained my deck about 8 years ago, cleaned it with water pressure, and sand the whole area, then I applied a latex or water-based stain sealer. and this year I want to redo the deck and I was thinking to apply an oil-based stain sealer over it, is it doable or I need to strip the old water-based sealer completely, thanks
Home Renovision DIY I enjoyed the video, comments and replies but none covered my situation. I have a 25 year old deck 3 inches off the ground, it is surrounded by large spruce trees so it literally gets no sun at all and never really dries out completely, covered in snow 6 months of the year. The Flood solid colour I put on 10 yr ago mostly wore off. The boards have a few cracks in them, but are all strong. With this high humidity, will sealer coatings not just trap more moisture in the wood than the current state?
I've just rewatched this video again since we will build our deck this summer. Just wanted to refresh my memory on the wood and sealer vs composite decking. I don't like the green look of pressured treated wood and wanted to know your thoughts on brown pressured treated wood? Is it look as nice as a cedar deck overtime? I assumed that the deck on the video is cedar. Thanks again
What are your thoughts on Penofin Oil Stain? Iv been told it is the absolute best, and if you can get your hands on it that it will last 18-20 years... but I’m in California and to get it, I would need to travel.....
My wife is very worried about the smell. Her sister did use a product last year and she had to keep the windows closed for a month because her sealer was so strong smelling. Is it the case with Thompson's ?
Thanks for the question Ben, I hope Max has helped to ease your concerns. Feel free to contact any manufacturer to get information about voc's and off gasses they will be happy to supply that information to you.
I'm a new home owner, and I I'm about to finish my deck with a semi-transparent stain/sealer. When the sealer where is off and it comes time to do the process over again in about 7 years (what the can says) would I be able to just put a clear seal over it? I would rather not go through the work of having to sand it all down again?
Love your vids. Great information and lots of helpful tips! Just came across this vid after searching for an outdoor stainable and sealable woodfiller for pressure treated wood. My deck posts are cracking (some pretty large). Do you recommend any woodfillers for pressure treated decks that can be stained and/or sealed?
Hello I just built a small barn. T & g pine barn siding with cedar trim on the doors and windows etc. would this process be good for that. Thanks for your videos
Hey HRV I am looking to re-seal the water proof Deck That is 10 ft off the ground with a working area underneath. It has a blueish coating that is water proof and lets the rain drain off the edge sides. We have some small leaks that pass through and a few sun beat areas that have pealed. Do we have to strip all the old stuff off sand and re-seal or can we just pressure wash and light sand then re seal. Also what is a good product for this? I am wondering if you have experience or thoughts on how this is done
Great video. In the beginning of the video you say you can powerwash instead of sanding. At 5:20 you talk about sanding the deck. Can you clarify whether you need to do both, or if powerwashing is a fine substitute for sanding.
Thank you much for the info, I do have a question, I’m refurbishing a deck by a waterfront beach house, by this time of the year I get a lot of sea water splashing, what product you recommend after I finish the staining part?
How do you feel the Thompson’s Oil sealer used in Ottawa will compare to its use here in southern North Carolina where summers can get fairly brutal. Still recommended?
Hey Jeff, I live in Québec so you know how bad our winters are! I had applied a crappy stain about 3 years ago and now it is time to spruce it up. I will do the pressure wash,mildew removal and light sanding. However, I am on my store`s website looking for the Thompson product you used. There are so many!! I tried to pause your video and see what you used but I cannot see it. I want no stain, oil based. Can you tell me the exact product name? Also I have a 16x20 deck, how many gallons to you think I would need? thank you!
You need your own show on HGTV. My husband and I watch your videos a lot. He is a 3rd generation finish carpenter/contractor but he left the family business to become and officer. We are about to buy a home and fixer upper. So he has been refreshing his mind by watching you. I can see the excitement in his face. So your videos are awesome and have restored the zeal for carpentry he put ob the back burner. Thank you Jeff!
Congratulations Gina, I hope all goes well with your future project. Cheers!
Funny, we are doing the opposite. Trying to fix up our house a bit to sell.
Taking the stain seal back and getting just sealer. Invaluable tip. Thank you. Great video.
Jeff - thats great information. I’m now on 27yrs of my original deck and have just replaced a few boards. You’re correct, take care of the deck in a timely manner and it will last. Thanks for the video.
Subscribed within the first minute of this video. Thank you!!
I have a covered large deck for about 10 years. I have never treat it before but it has held up to the element pretty well, with the exception to the railing which I plan on replacing with modern rails and balusters instead of lattices. Per store recommendation, I purchased the Olympics Maximum stain and sealer (semi-tran.) After testing it on piece of wood, I realized that the stain (or more like paint) stays thick and will be really tough to remove in the future. So I came to the internet for assistance and found your video which addressed my concerns. I'm now changing plans from stain to sealant only for all the deck boards, I might stain the railing with some of the 5 gal stain that I already purchased just so the dark color balusters don't look too odd around bare wood. Thank you for sharing your video. please comment on the plan. (+liked+subscribed)
Hi Sam, just so you know the sealer needs to be applied whenever the water stops beading up. use a sprayer and it takes only a few minutes. Cheers!
Now I’m ready to do my deck. Thank you so much
So happy I found your videos... very informative. I don't have any questions at this point, I just wanted to thank you for taking the time in answering everyone's questions and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Mark, my pleasure.
Thanks for all the great videos - much appreciated. It’s especially nice to see them come from someone local.
I am in the process of replacing my 25-year old 5/4 cedar deck, which went through decades of the staining woes you describe. This time around I’ll be using Sienna treated 5/4 decking (unless I win a lottery and can afford capped PVC) and I really like the idea of waterproofing instead of staining. Life is too short to repeat the staining nightmare again. Aside from looking cracked and terrible now, my current deck is also failing at the butt joints where the boards were screwed from the top into the joists. This time around I’ll be using the Camo fasteners you used in another video, which should add to the looks and to the lifespan of the deck.
I can’t make out which specific Thompson's product you are using in the video. Thompson's seems to have several deck water proofers in a similar can with the green label and with similar names. Is yours the “Thompson’s Water Proofer Plus Clear Wood Protector”?
Thanks.
Glad to hear from someone in Ottawa, We are always here to help. If you ever need anything just comment on a video and we will get back to you in the same day. Cheers.
Hadn't watched this video right through the end before I suggested some possible content. Can't wait for the outdoor hardscaping videos!
Thanks.
Thank u!!! Great video!!!
I hate stains!!! Our deck has peeled and peeled year after year. Our new part of the deck will be sealed with a cedar sealer!!!
Here in Winnipeg our deck stain doesnt survive the winter.
How often should we have to re-apply a sealer like thompsons?
What would you recommend to protect cedar fence sections?
Love your channel!!! So mich valuable info!!! Thx!!!
Excellent video. I was quoted $2300+ material cost for refinishing a 800 Sq ft deck and I thought no way! Thanks for doing this. New sub.
Hi Raj. Welcome to the DIY CREW!
We have a nice Press Treated wooden fence around our small back yard. We too have been advised on just using clear oil based sealers but believed the finish was just a little too light; sealers do give it a slightly darker wood finish, just slightly. So what we were advised to do (from an old school construction guy) was to first apply a regular oil base wood stain; it's not a semi-transparant or covering wood protection but just wood stain (Minwax). Then after drying, coated that with an oil based clear wood protectant (Olympic Maximum in this case) . As you suggest, we simply re-coat every 2-3 years and enjoy the slightly darker "Early American" maple like stain. Yes, the clear sealer does darken that slightly more and is why we didn't apply a stain too dark. Works just like you said, only a maple like darkness! This spring we reapply, but just two questions: should we just use a polyurethane at this point and get many more years (& how many) in between re-applications? Whats your experience with that outdoors on a vertical surface? Cheers to your great advice!
i use penofin now looks amazing and seals well also uv blockers in it
I have been staining my decks for years like a sucker. Thanks for a great video and great advice! I'll be sealing the next deck.
Cheers!
Hi Jeff, first of all thank you so much for all your good advice! So far you helped me renovate a whole bathroom, completely stripped it to the studs and rebuilt completely. Even my wife is happy and that says a lot! I have a question about using Thompson water seal on my deck. Years ago when I built it, I put Cetol SRD (never listen to your brother in law...) over the years I must have applied 6 coats and now it just isn’t looking good anymore. I used a stripper product from Benjamin Moore and removed most of it. I am down to the wood now and I just need to sand it down further. After watching your video I like the idea of Thompson water seal. In your opinion, can I still use it even if the deck had a coach of stain on it but it was removed?
Jeff I have watched a lot of your videos and I am very impressed. I am a high end residential painter with 30 plus years experience. Thompsons water seal is a no no. It just sits on the surface of the wood and when it wears off it wears off unevenly leaving patches. A deck treated this way can never be finished with anything else ever again. What you want is a clear or transparent stain that penetrates the wood creating a permanent bond. Just like you would prime bare wood with a special product you should not put down a "top coat" over bare wood. While Thompsons water seal repels water pretty well it does not bond to the wood
we recommend spraying a new coat after a quick deck brush cleaning if necessary about twice a year. this way you never have to sand again. all stains need maintenance and they all need to be removed before doing anything new.
A deck treated with Thompson's can certainly be brought back and finished with another product. As an owner of a deck restoration business I personally don't care much for Thompson's for the reasons you listed above. But with a good chemical stripper and pressure wash (3200psi or stronger) and sanding it can be taken off and refinished with a new product.
So if you are not recommending the Thompsons what product do you recommend instead? James Martin...
What if I don’t want to sand a single plank ? What if I only power wash the old ass deck & lay some Thompson’s clear sealer down ? Would that be ok ? I will let ya know because that’s my plan ! Thanks for sharing this video , it’s the only one I found informative
That's what I have done for 30 years.
Thank you for the service you provide
Cheers Scott, happy to help!
We build our deck last August with Brown Pressure Treated Wood and we are preparing to seal it for the first time before summer hits (if only the wheater can be good for a couple of days straight).
We are thinking of using Thompson Waterseal Clear Wood Protector and are wondering your suggestions on what method to use in order to seal the deck? Paintbrush and roller vs sprayer? Spayer seems quick and easy but maybe I'm missing something.
Thanks
Nice videos. I really like all that you talk about and showing step by step the techniques you use and recommend from sheet rocking a wall to deck maintenance and more . Thanks alot..
🚒
Great video..thanks for sharing..
Best sentence in your video is at 6:05 - 6:06!!
Cheers!
i am boston carpenter in the union so i do alot of commercial buildings so all this residential content is a wonderful way for me to expand my skill set thank you for the video it was very helpful
Glad to help hero.
Thanks! I'm from Gatineau, love your videos.
Hey Jeff -- I built my deck back in the summer of 2013 but I never sealed or stained the pressure-treated wood. Do I need to do anything else other than what you recommend in this video? (Pressure wash, belt-sand, seal)?
I got a pine deck with a dark stain/paint on it. Thinking about sanding it off completely. I don't think a power washer would strip it or if it did, I would have to sand anyways... Thinking about putting on TWP series 100 on it with a little color. They say you can apply it right over it again if need be- no sanding necessary. Any advice on that particular stain? Have you used it before? Thank you for the videos. Been learning a lot!
Good job, open mind to help people instead promote the product like others, we need more guru like you in the internet help people instead sell! Thanks!
Useful video, thanks. You’ve convinced me that a clear coat sealer is the way to go over staining.
A few questions… my deck is a bit more weathered it seems. (1) Do you recommend the use of a deck cleaner as a first step, or do you think that one pass with the pressure washer should suffice?
Also a little confused, around the 2:30 mark you say that you don’t have to belt sand the deck… then a few minutes later you talk about the different options for sanding :)
I think my deck - in the state it’s in - needs a sanding. Which leads me to my 2nd question - (2) is belt sander the way to go, or do you think one of those larger random orbit floor sanders (with a small orbital sander to address tougher to reach areas) is ok? My deck is pretty big, so any way to cut time would be great.
Thanks!
deck cleaner sounds like a good start. sand what you must but I love renting tools to make a job quicker.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi, not to be mean, but this doesn't answer the question. First you said not to sand it, then you said to sand it. It's confusing.
This is my plan tomorrow.
Sodium metasilicate or percarbonate, rinse, oxalic acid, rinse. Dry. Stain.
I was hoping to see the deck restoration in action. I'm about to start mine once the weather cooperates. Great tips!
sweat blood and tears looks just like what it sounds like. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Your videos have already helped me out a lot. I'm doing a lot of home renovations. Painting walls, painting trim, going to paint cupboards, tearing up old carpet and putting down vinyl plank flooring. I've got one and half of two bedrooms done. Then it's to our kitchen/main living area. I have a toddler in tow the whole time and my six year old helps where he can.
I'm about to see if your channel has anything on stairs. We are taking the carpet off of those too and they look ugly underneath.
Getting ready to restore my deck. I do need to replace a few boards and railings which I will do first. A few questions.
1. Should I wait 3 weeks to start the restoration process if 1/4 of my deck is new wood?
2. If I power wash the deck do I still need to sand the deck
3. Do I need to buy any cleaning products or will power washing and sanding be enough.
Thanks! I really appreciate your videos
My deck was built by our contractor two years ago. We plan on sealing with Thompson this spring/summer. That being said, should there be any concern about the type of lumber that was used to build the deck? I have no idea if its cedar or something else. Does sealing basically cover all types of deck wood? Thank you! I love your videos. I have watched probably 100 hrs of your work while working from home the last few weeks.
Absolutely spot on advice
"If I have a really nice wood I like to show it off" 👍
I bought a house with big wooden deck(no pool) but someone painted it who knows when and paint is peeling really bad, like it was bad paint, not the right kind or something. Should I still just but pressure washer and Thompson weatherproof fluid?
I built a 16'x24' deck last year following your videos and those of Shannon from the HouseImprovement channel - thank you guys.
My deck passed inspection with flying colors and it saved me over $8k+ in labor cost. Now I need to seal it, so I'll follow your advice with the Thompson product.
That is a great system. Make sure to check it regularly in hot sun or rainy seasons. Cheers!
In my opinion Sikkins is simply the best deck stain on the market. The SRD is a 1 coat oil based hybrid that will hold up to the rain, snow and UV degradation! Its not cheap but well worth it
Thanks Jeff, will look into that product. Do you know how many years they guarantee?
@@SubdivisionAuto look into the Flood product line carried at most Dulux paint outlets.
Would like to hear your thoughts on stripping paint off a deck and returning it back to just a clear/natural coating. Will most of the paint come off with a pressure washer?
Thank you for all the videos!
Great video! I've never stained or sealed my deck since installing. Do I need to powerwash first or can I go straight to sanding? Thank you!
Watch his newer video on this subject made in 2019. If you power wash, you don't need to sand.
What do you think of Ready Seal as a spray-able oil based alternative sealant? It is supposed to last 2-3 years between applications instead of an annual refresh. It does not build up on the surface like most big box stains. I have been using it on my siding but am curious about deck use. It's really easy to work with and affordable in 5 gallon drums.
Had porch paint on my deck...after 5 years it needs to be repainted...went to Home Depot to get some more...was going to just give it a good clean, sand and repaint. When I asked for it, Home Depot convinced me to buy $50 jugs of stripper (which only cover about 100 sq ft) a $50 jug of cleaner and Behr solid stain...ugh! After spending 2 hours just trying to strip a small area making a complete mess the stripper barely did the job and everything is soaking wet. Had a general contractor come by to quote some other stuff and he said a belt sander would have the entire deck stripped in about an hour...and then would just need a good sweep / damp mop and ready to paint...I like your idea of Thompsons Water Seal...wish I had seen your video before going to Home Depot...thank you!
Great Video. One of the best on the topic. Just finished my deck with Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil, natural color. What’s your opinion of that product?
Just did our deck with Olimpic awesome product, nice finish! Question: Can you just clean it with soap and water?
I just discovered your video and found it incredibly helpful! I thought the deck at our new house needed to be replaced, but I power washed all the moss and goo off and discovered the wood is actually in great shape. It's early Fall, and I worry I won't have a dry and warm enough day to seal it before winter. Can I wait until spring?
same concerns. can someone here help?
Jeff, awesome video and great tips. My 800 sq. ft. deck is 26 years old and this will be my 4th summer with this house and I haven’t done anything to the deck since. It seems because of all the coats of paint or maybe improper spacing between boards there’s no gaps between them. Over the years water has been pooling in the center of the deck due to no drainage and I have been sweeping it away every time. The paint has been pealing and there’s been areas of bare wood for the last 2 years. I would like to tackle this project this spring. Here are my questions: How do you know if a board needs replacing if it’s been compromised due to rotting? Is pressure/power spray enough to remove old coat or do you also need paint/stain stripper? I would like to get this done in the most efficient way possible. I am very handy around tools and not scared of hard work.
Wes
so good mr. exactly what I wanted to find out
Cheers , glad to help!
Hello Jeff! What happens if you want to get rid of color stain and use only sealers?
Thank you!
Hi Jeff,
Sorry if you've already answered this. in the video, you mention sanding the deck if you have paint on it, which I do. Many coats of pealing paint. Do you recommended using paint stripper first or just go ahead and sand it starting coarse? Or maybe just the pressure washer could work? I might have lead paint in a sub coat some where under there so I'm not a 100% on sanding it, since I have two young children.
Thanks
Love your channel and all of your videos. Question for you... How do you fix wood deck posts, the weight bearing vertical deck supports that start cracking? Can I use resin glue? What do you recommend?
Great video !! Just 1 question
It’s either pressure washer or sanding ? Not both I assume ?
I have a 14 year old, great condition wood deck on my balconies at my house. The wood has never been stained or finished in any way. So this week, the wood was treated with conditioner to bring it back to life (Cabot product), pressured washed and now need to know which stain to use, Oil base or Acrylic based. FYI, I live in Florida where the sun bakes everything! So, I wanted to use a oil based Cabot's transparent stain and my painter bought a acrylic product. Even though I have $450 in 2, 5 gallons of buckets, I'm ready to ditch what I have and use a different product or us a Cabot's oil based product. Since we have no plans on selling this home, I want my product to last a really long time. Please send me your thoughts when you have time, Thanks So Much, Nickie
Great advice thanks
Love your videos! I'm struggling with what to do with my large deck. We have a large above ground pool. It's 20'x40'. A deck was built around all sides. The deck dimensions are 40'x50'. Treated deck boards. We tried staining it a year and a half ago after power washing but the stain did not last. Many boards are starting to get in bad shape. I'm considering replacing the deck boards with Trex but it's very expensive. I'm estimating it will cost close to $10,000 even if I do all the work. The deck sub-structure is in excellent condition. Now I'm re-thinking about power washing again and replacing any bad boards. I don't like the idea of a clear sealer or semi - transparent stains as the new boards won't look good with the old ones. Sherwin Williams makes some great solid deck stains that we've used on some rentals and after 3 years they still look great. What are your thoughts Jeff?
I would go cedar. only $4000.00 and worth it. you can clear coat it twice a year without the hassle and it will always look great. Also great for resale. Cheers!
Can you move old boards from the sides to replace the damaged boards? Then put the new boards on the sides. This will keep the main areas looking the same. Just an idea
I like the way you explain it. I have a qst tough: when you do a job like that, you restore the whole top of the deck. But what do you do with the underneath of the deck? Do you do the same thing to protect it against the humidity comming from the ground? Tks.
This is what I put on my deck!!! yay... Thomson Water seal ... not to mention much much cheaper than any stain ... i get a 5 gallon Thompson for about 40$ ... stains go for about 130 or more! Win Win!!!
One of the best products on the market and gets little respect!
Btw +Home RenoVision DIY ... after checking your videos last summer on decking, here's what I came up with I thought you'd like to see it:
Before:
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After:
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s17.postimg.org/4kkzluigv/0710171520.jpg
dha4w82d62smt.cloudfront.net/items/0V0y0h0U0g1L0h2g300Z/Image%202018-02-05%20at%201.04.02%20PM.png?X-CloudApp-Visitor-Id=819fdda56280ca6dace0ef7883cce40f&v=1e9503c5
I used the Water Thompson Sealer ...cheaper and less maintenance :)
I like Penofin. What do you think?
Another great informative video. Thank you.
Great video. So are you saying that I should pressure wash and sand my deck or just pressure wash? Prior to applying the seal.
Many thanks
Any concerns about side edge of board and underside? Also, what wears the sealer down? Is it just human and pet activity on the top? or does the sun and snow and rain also take their toll?
Great video. We just bought a home with an aging deck that was built out of thick heavy duty boards and this is on my to do list. Two questions for you, first, what are your thoughts on the stuff used to seal and fill cracks in old wood decks? Second, is it better to brush on the water sealer or can it be sprayed on? Thanks in advance. Love your videos.
If you are thinking of using any kind of filler then you probably need to go with a semi or solid stain. test it out first but you will probably get really light colored filler marks after sealing. The sealer can definitely be sprayed. It has no pigment and can be overlapped without any visible lines. great for spindles and hard to reach areas or just a quick coat near the end of summer to get a great seal again.
So in the beginning of the video you say to use a pressure washer or the only other option is using a belt sander and that's 50-60 hours worth of work. Then later you say "when it comes time to sand your deck..." So are you saying if you pressure wash you don't have to then belt sand? Or just that you will have less sanding to do? And I currently have Behr DeckOver on my deck which I want to remove. Any tips on that? Thanks, love your videos.
Could you use this same process to create and protect wood planting boxes with plastic liner on the inside of the planters?
I'm pressure washing today id like to seal it like you said....what temperature does it have to be for sealer to be able to dry effectively as I have short window of no rain and 70 degree weather days for drying...
I went to Lowe’s (I live in GTA) to grab a sealant last week. The Thompson’s sealer appeared to be the cheapest option, but the employee told me they get negative feedback on this product because yellowing and you have to reapply it every 6 months. So I ended up getting a water based more expensive sealer that she recommended. What do you think?
I think the employee did their job well. Cheers!
Just spent all day powerwashing off 5 to 7 years of old stain and mold and dirt. The deck looks like new, wow. Was looking thru video on propper next step. Didnt want to put stain down just keep it as natural as possible. Came across your video. Tou?suggest with facts about juat sealing your deck and the difference between water and oil sealers. Im sold on using oil and just using a clear sealer. Thanks
Another excellent video ! I built a new deck this spring and I've been waiting for the rain to stop long enough to dry out before sealing with the Thompson clear coat product.
Looking forward to your upcoming landscape video . Retaining walls and patio stones = heavy ! ( Matt and Nate ? ).
I hope we get some dryer weather soon !
Got the whole team working on this one. stone being delivered this week. 3 more weeks to go until finished.
Would you also recommend an oil based sealer for wood that is at least 30 years old and very dry?
Should I use the oil based on cedar fence as well?
Great tips! I am building a floating ground level deck using pressure treated sienna brown. Part of it could be partially underground. Would you still recommend using a clear coat sealer? I hear the sienna brown will look like cedar after it dries out. Let me know what you think.
Keep the videos coming
Hi Jonathan, The color does brown out after a few weeks. I still recommend a sealer to keep the wood from cracking which leads to premature rot. but feel free to let it change color first. Cheers!
After my huge upper and lower decks, I will go to Trek next. What mtce. Do they take?
Great video! I just stained my deck before watching this. Is it too late to do the right thing? Can I now switch to yearly clear coatings? Will that keep the color?
SO TRUE 💯 👍👍
WOULD YOU PLEASE ROLL UP THE RIM ON THAT COFFEE!!! I NEED TO KNOW
I have a 1200 sq. ft. pressure treated deck, about 4 feet off the ground on average, that I applied cabots oil-based "new redwood" stain to about 12 years ago and I haven't kept up with maintenance and now it needs alot of work...(about 25% of the deck boards need to be replaced but all the railings are in good shape). I plan on power washing it this spring to try and restore. Since its current color is redwood(cabots), would you make any recommendations as to how I should proceed after I replace the damaged boards and power wash? i.g.: the same cabots new redwood? Another product?
Thank you! :)
just put some green oak sleepers (I think you call them ties, freshly cut) down for stairs and retaining wall in my garden. Climate is pretty wet (UK) and I have been advised to leave them to weather and bed in before I treat them. These sealers you talk about - do you think I need to apply them after the weathering period (some say it takes up to a year) - even to a hardwood like oak?
Sadly in the UK we only mainly find Pine for use on decks, unless you want to spend double or even treble x the cost on Oak, or Cedar. Not really a wood that simply sealing brings the best out of. Here we tend to stain and need to do at least every other year, if not yearly.
I totally get that. Cheers! perhaps you should try concrete stamping for patios. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks for the info. Question: I have an old deck that has semi-transparent stain on it. It looks weathered and is in need of some attention. If I understand you correctly, to refinish it I should sand all that off and either re-stain or just apply water seal?
That is exactly correct. The new sealer may need a refresh 2 times a year but no sanding necessary after the original treatment.
I have a screened in, covered deck. While the deck boards and framing were sealed with a darker brown opaque, waterproof stain from Behr, it appears that the staining was done after all of the framing and screens were installed, and the end grain of the deck boards on the sides of the deck were not stained or sealed at all. Because the sides of the deck are flush with the roof and there is no overhang, rainwater accumulates here and seeps into the wood through the endgrain of the decking. The problem is compounded because the decking cannot dry out due to a lack of sun, minimal ventilation with the deck a foot off the ground, and the fact that the rest of the boards are otherwise encapsulated in waterproof material. This has led to about 2 feet of decking rotting from the inside out along the sides of the deck.
So my question is threefold:
First, is there any disadvantage to switching from the previously applied opaque stain to a transparent sealer like Thompsons, assuming all rotted decking is removed and the boards are sanded down.
Second, for longevity, would you recommend replacing the rotted deckboards with cedar or PT lumber, or does it not matter so long as we properly seal the endgrain this time? If I go with PT, I would stick with a solid color stain.
Finally, because the parts of the deck most exposed to the elements are difficult to access for sealing with a brush or roller, what can we do to maintain the seal on the endgrain over time? I do note that the endgrain is covered by a large skirt board, so it would be difficult to reapply the stain to the endgrain every few years after installing.
I realize this is a ridiculously detailed question, and that my deck violates just about every rule you have for deck planning and construction, particularly with respect to ventilation. Unfortunately, we can't really change this because the deck is level with the exit door from our kitchen. Thanks in advance for your thoughts, and keep the great videos coming. Best channel on RUclips.
I have a large pressure treated deck that is about five years old. There is an existing semitransparent stain to the deck. Can I get away with just cleaning the deck and applying Thompson’s water sealer or do I need to clean and restain the deck? If I need to restain it, do I need to go to a solid color stain or try to find a matching semitransparent stain?
Just brought a house with a large deck. The deck is weathered and has never been stained nor sealed. Understanding that I need to power-wash the deck what would you suggest I use? I am afraid that if I just seal the deck it will not look as good as a color stain would. Thoughts??? Thank you
So, I have the new pressure treated wood - looks very nice so I’m definitely going to go for just sealant - problem is, the deck wasn’t finished until mid August - it’s now October, and it keeps on raining outside. Is there going to be any harm in waiting until next spring to seal the deck should the weather not improve over the next month?
would it be a good idea to stain color and after put only the sealer for the next years? thanks
I have stained my deck about 8 years ago, cleaned it with water pressure, and sand the whole area, then I applied a latex or water-based stain sealer. and this year I want to redo the deck and I was thinking to apply an oil-based stain sealer over it, is it doable or I need to strip the old water-based sealer completely, thanks
Home Renovision DIY I enjoyed the video, comments and replies but none covered my situation. I have a 25 year old deck 3 inches off the ground, it is surrounded by large spruce trees so it literally gets no sun at all and never really dries out completely, covered in snow 6 months of the year. The Flood solid colour I put on 10 yr ago mostly wore off. The boards have a few cracks in them, but are all strong.
With this high humidity, will sealer coatings not just trap more moisture in the wood than the current state?
I've just rewatched this video again since we will build our deck this summer. Just wanted to refresh my memory on the wood and sealer vs composite decking. I don't like the green look of pressured treated wood and wanted to know your thoughts on brown pressured treated wood? Is it look as nice as a cedar deck overtime? I assumed that the deck on the video is cedar.
Thanks again
actually it is pressure treated, the color comes from the sealer. a little amber
What are your thoughts on Penofin Oil Stain? Iv been told it is the absolute best, and if you can get your hands on it that it will last 18-20 years... but I’m in California and to get it, I would need to travel.....
Love your videos, respect from Alberta! Keep posting!
My deck is painted with a deck over product. (Paint with sand). What kind of remover would you recommend? Thanks, love your videos!
My wife is very worried about the smell. Her sister did use a product last year and she had to keep the windows closed for a month because her sealer was so strong smelling. Is it the case with Thompson's ?
Thanks for the question Ben, I hope Max has helped to ease your concerns. Feel free to contact any manufacturer to get information about voc's and off gasses they will be happy to supply that information to you.
Thanks for the video. Do you apply product to the trellis above your railing & railing as well?
I'm a new home owner, and I I'm about to finish my deck with a semi-transparent stain/sealer. When the sealer where is off and it comes time to do the process over again in about 7 years (what the can says) would I be able to just put a clear seal over it? I would rather not go through the work of having to sand it all down again?
Love your vids. Great information and lots of helpful tips! Just came across this vid after searching for an outdoor stainable and sealable woodfiller for pressure treated wood. My deck posts are cracking (some pretty large). Do you recommend any woodfillers for pressure treated decks that can be stained and/or sealed?
Hello I just built a small barn. T & g pine barn siding with cedar trim on the doors and windows etc. would this process be good for that. Thanks for your videos
Hey HRV
I am looking to re-seal the water proof Deck That is 10 ft off the ground with a working area underneath. It has a blueish coating that is water proof and lets the rain drain off the edge sides. We have some small leaks that pass through and a few sun beat areas that have pealed.
Do we have to strip all the old stuff off sand and re-seal or can we just pressure wash and light sand then re seal. Also what is a good product for this?
I am wondering if you have experience or thoughts on how this is done
Great video. In the beginning of the video you say you can powerwash instead of sanding. At 5:20 you talk about sanding the deck. Can you clarify whether you need to do both, or if powerwashing is a fine substitute for sanding.
If pressure washing does not work then sanding may be required. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY cheers to you! keep up the good work.
Home RenoVision DIY how will I know if the power washing did not work and I need to sand?
Thank you much for the info, I do have a question, I’m refurbishing a deck by a waterfront beach house, by this time of the year I get a lot of sea water splashing, what product you recommend after I finish the staining part?
How do you feel the Thompson’s Oil sealer used in Ottawa will compare to its use here in southern North Carolina where summers can get fairly brutal. Still recommended?
Hey Jeff, I live in Québec so you know how bad our winters are! I had applied a crappy stain about 3 years ago and now it is time to spruce it up. I will do the pressure wash,mildew removal and light sanding. However, I am on my store`s website looking for the Thompson product you used. There are so many!! I tried to pause your video and see what you used but I cannot see it. I want no stain, oil based. Can you tell me the exact product name? Also I have a 16x20 deck, how many gallons to you think I would need? thank you!