Drafting a Coat Pattern From Scratch
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- I am sewing myself a bespoke men's topcoat and I'm making it from scratch. In this video specifically, I draft the pattern for the coat.
The focus in the video is me sharing the journey of how I go about it, but also offer tips, tricks and techniques as I go along.
Overall, my approach is to take my current shirt pattern and evolve it into a coat.
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00:00 - Intro
00:31 - The Body
04:18 - The Sleeves
06:37 - The Collar
10:22 - The Final Result
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#patterndrafting #menswear #sewing
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I think you mentioned the accident you had as a child in another one of your videos, but I didn't know you worked on a glove to repair the mobility in your hand. You are truly an amazing person!!! Also, your drafting skills are nothing less than awe-inspiring.
You are so kind. Thank you for the continued support.
That glove project was a pivotal point in my life. I didn't ultimately succeed in the goal of it being a functioning tool for myself, but it gave me a much greater result in the form self-acceptance and embracing who I am.
Thanks for watching, as always.
More, More, More...... I've been sewing 40+ years out of necessity. 6 foot 3" Nurse, scrubs but never a Coat. Lots of pants and shirts throughout the years. Love that you post these vids. Michael in California.....
Well thank you! It's always nice to hear from others and what they make. I am glad that you're getting something out of my videos and thank you for the motivation.
You’re a brave man. I’m looking forward to seeing the fabric you pick out for the real thing. Great job C!
The pressure is on to pick something interest. Knowing me, it's going to be subtle and understated :)
What a presentation Sir. Every time I see your videos, It brings a smile to my face. Simply incredible Sir. Best videos on the subject on RUclips period.
You are very kind and thank you and thanks for watching my content. Well wishes.
Looking good! Always impressed by your pattern drafting abilities! I have 3m of satin finished wool, 3m of Liberty lawn and a vintage pattern that have been intimidating me from the corner of the room since last autumn. Maybe next winter I'll have a finished coat...
When you finally do come to it, I hope you tackle it with a tenacity that make's it regret all that side eye it's been giving you from the corner there. 😂
It's coming along fantastically! Whether or not you intend on following one in the future I highly recommend either the "Modern Tailor, Outfitter & Clothier" volumes or also the "Thornton Cutting System" those books can sometimes be a bit excessive in their drafting formulas and drone on a bit, but even just as a reference they can offer a lot if you fancy a dive into "classic tailoring" or an offer old trade trick here or there. Nevertheless your work is always fantastic and I can't wait to see the finished piece!
Thank you for the suggestions. I do have a thirst for continued learning and so sharing these is much appreciated. One of the unintended benefits of making these videos is that I learn things from viewers such as yourself, that I didn't know or didn't think to discover. Thank you.
i really appreciate seeing your problem-solving process and the ways that you conserve fabric while iterating. thank you for sharing with us :)
and thank you for watching! 🙏🏻
I would really appreciate if you could do a video on a double breasted coat as well. Your amazing channel is the number one resource on drafting one's own patterns for classic men's wear.
Also, I'd love to see you explore putting linings in different kinds of garments, too.
Thank you for the suggestions, I will consider them.
Thanks so much for your videos it's so helpful...you encourage me to keep trying with my sewing projects.
Please, keep on trying. I think you'll amaze yourself with what you're capable of doing. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Wow !!! Congrats !!! Looking good!! Love your work
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your skills. I'm sure I will learn a lot from you. I mainly work on leather and faux fur women's fashion handbags. I just decided to venture off into menswear and found your channel.
Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching. I have no doubt you will take to sewing clothes very quickly. I am a little jealous of your leather working skills :)
Beautiful 😍 🤩 👌 ❣️ 😘 😊 😍 🤩 👌 ❣️ 😘 😊 😍 🤩 👌 ❣️ 😘 😊 I'm a tad drunk, re-watching all your content
Cheers!
ha! Welcome back :)
Awesome! :) I'm new to pattern drafting myself, looooots of trial and error!
Trial and error seems to be the best way for me to learn. 😏 I hope you're having some success though.
Well look at this. 17k subs, Been here since 1000. Hope you continue to grow, not many do what you do. Congrats.
Well thank you for sticking around! It's been a slow and steady climb, you've been a part of it and it humbles me knowing when people support what I do.
Released on a Sunday I’m off?! What a treat. 🤠🙌
The world works in mysterious ways :)
These videos are fantastic. Funny and informative. Often they manage to highlight something that made me give up on a project and suggest a path forward. So thank you for that!
For another way of cutting patterns there is a thesis called Kinetic Garment Construction by Rickard Lindqvist, it may be interesting.
I am happy to hear you're getting something out of my videos. Thanks for watching! As for the book you're recommending, I'm intrigued by the title alone! Sounds interesting and I'll check it out. Thank you.
Pattern Drafting is very rewarding, though at times, it can be time consuming and you get to be in a rush to cut out the fabric for the garment. I enjoy Pattern Drafting but sometimes it makes me want to cry tears. It really takes a lot of time.
Very rewarding indeed, but it makes me want to cry most of the time :)
Great demonstration, learned a lot warching thanks Cornelius. Hope you captured your process for addressing the 'gremlin' at the back, be really interested to see that.
Haha, yes, I will try and remember to address the gremlin in the next video. Thanks for watching and for sharing your thoughts.
This is cooooool👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻... loved the coat
Thanks for your support.
@@CorneliusQuiring Anytime brother❤️
I always enjoying your video man!
Btw I'm working on a alterations shop here in the Philippines!
Oh that's awesome. Thanks for sharing a bit about yourself.
I'm a beginner but my dream is to have a long vintage style coat, with flare back.. Like 40s, notched collars.. A girl can dream :)
And dream's can become reality. You got this!
Great coat,love the colour and it fits very well. WIsh I can make a coat by myself but I am afraid that would be a total mess lol :)
Every project starts as a total mess, even for me :) Thanks for watching.
You really are very patient and methodical about your projects. I find that very encouraging and inspires me NOT to screw up my misbehaving items and throw them in a corner..😁
Haha. Well I am happy to hear that I am motivating you to keep at it and I am motivated by you to keep up at it and not relent in my pursuit of doing the best I can. :)
Am also learning from u send me your WhatsApp number
Eres genial!!
¡Eres genial también!
Your transitions in your videos are so relaxing and clean btw. Also on an unrelated note I listen to your Spotify playlist (I think it’s #2 that is my favorite) it helps me acquire abut more motivation to sew when I’m feeling unsure and ofc it’s relaxing too!
Thank you for the kind words . I am glad to hear that you enjoy the playlists, but more importantly, it's wonderful that they motivate you to sew. Thanks as always for watching and commenting.
Watching your videos is giving me sew many ideas. I want to deaft a coat pattern based on a uniform coat i had when serving in the US Navy. (Not my peacoat, as there are many peacoat patterns available. )
I want a work utility jacket/coat. It's not very heavy, yet it is warm on a chilly day. About hip length. Zipper front , welt side pocets, 2 zipper breast pockets and lined with either light fleece or flannel. Has a collar.
Maybe using just my description you can make something for yourself and show it.
I don't expect that you have the time for my challenge, but I just put it out there. I will eventually design this jacket. If i watch enough videos i can piece it together like a Frankenstein coat.
Frankenstein-ing things together is exactly how I made everything I do :) Thank you for the suggestion, I will consider it for a future video. I do like making coats. Hopefully you're able to make one for yourself as well to the specifications you want.
Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻
Hey Cornelius, I’m really enjoying your videos! Do you have any sewing machines to recommend for a beginner in mind? Also a video on sewing equipment you’re using, would be awesome!
Thanks for the video suggestion, I will keep it in mind for future video ideas.
As for a sewing machine, I suggest something used. Thinks 70s and 80s. No fancy bells and whistles. I think it's less about what specific model and more about build quality. Making sure all the parts feel solid and sturdy, things aren't loose or creaky. Hope that helps.
I agree. You're fine just as you are. Very fine indeed.
Well you've got me blushing on a Monday morning :)
Your videos are cool. Im currently as you know making Rimmers costume frim Red Dwarf series x. Im using MCCALLS M4745 but having problems gathering and easing the jacket sleeve. Do you have a video with tips please , as much as im enjoying unpicking them countless times 😂😁
haha well hopefully you don't have to pick it too many more times. I have a video in my shorts feed about easing in a sleeve.
@CorneliusQuiring ah right cool ill need to check that as I can't seem to get this right .
Smoke me a kipper ill be back for breakfast !
You sir, look quite handsome and debonair!
So kind :) I'm blushing.
You are cool.
I'm blushing :)
I really want to make this jacket but I don't want it to be too hot. Did you use lining and of you didn't how did you get rid of the rough edges that are on the inside that you see when you open the jacket.
In the final coat, yes I put a lining. If you use a thin outer shell and thin lining fabric, it should be okay for heat.
However, if you really don't want to have a living, you can simply serge the raw edges, or do either a bound or self-bound finish on all the raw edges. Just make sure you give yourself enough extra seam allowance if you're going to go with one of the last 2 options. Good luck with our make!
Looks like alot of trial and error but you got better with that collar with each new attempt! How much of the various sloppy areas do you think would be eliminated had you made it with canvassing/wadding, pad stitching, and a nice thick flannel wool? (given the exact same pattern) I would imagine the test fabric you're using isn't very forgiving
This is a really good point. I had considered this myself and I am not sure. That is my next step. I am going to make the full things out of a proper fabric and assess after that :) It'll be the next video.
What book did you use for the pattern?
Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. amzn.to/3N8Li8F
Full Disclosure, this is an affiliate link.
What resources are you using to learn. Do you take classes for instance.
It's been a hodgepodge of RUclips videos and a bunch of trial and error experiments. The Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear book has been really helpful for learning basic pattern shapes though.
@@CorneliusQuiring thanks, I got my juki on Monday and I'm set to do a few hours at college next term but really it's not aimed at becoming a tailor, more like a commercial machinist. I was looking for info on tools aswell, I recon you'd do a better job on the subject than the other content makers.
Well good luck on you endeavors and wish you success. Thank you for watching and for the kind words.
So what fabric did you uss
just a basic cotton bedsheet from the thrift store.
What to learn more about lapel
Good to know. I'll consider doing a video on it.
Aah,so *thaaat's* why you keep your right hand closed most o' the time.
Jus' a thought - Jackets don' always *have* to have side panels,some jus' have normal side seems.
I got plenty with jus' side seems.
They look just as good - wouldn't even notice if you weren't l👀kin' for it.
(Th🧠nk I actually prefer them). 🤷
If you care to, feel free to check out my website to get to know me a bit more. As for for coat, indeed, just 1 seam works just well. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and happy sewing.
I was the first one to comment.
And thanks for watching :)
Can you please help me understand why not using the drafting book to draft a pattern?
Have you heard of Free Sewing? They have a lot of free patterns and one can put in your own measures for MTM or an option to make even finer adjustments. I warn you, one can loose an entire day playing with the program.
I have a personal desire to make my own clothes from scratch, including drafting. I also draft my clothes to be different sizes on each side of my body.
I find that I do best learning by trial and error. It allows me to better understand why things are done a certain way. I'm a tactical learner. Learning by reading is a tough way for me to synthesis information. I have also found that drafting books don't do the best job explaining why things are done as they are just ... do it this way.
Having said all that, books are a great way to learn for many others. I've also heard of free sewing. It's great resource for those interested.
I also draft my own patterns, I am exploring them and see what I like best. Part of it is Cuter and Tailor forum died and I didn't save all the wonderful mid century Rundschau systems. By the way, I first make a 1/4 scale draft to work through and get an understanding.
I am also a tactile learner, so glad for your response, I defiantly will try it. For one, I struggle with shoulder slope, my shoulders are flat as the Trans-Canada through Alberta. ;
Hahahahaha. I Appreciate the humour and good to know. I've heard other people doing scale models first. Seems like an interesting concept. Thanks for sharing.
My humor comes from Oma, how many times she remind me better to laugh than cry.
I have not heard doing scale model, rather, a scale draft. If want to make easier, there is a special three sided ruler called an architect's scale. Each side has two scales, for six scales total. I was going to be an architect so took several hand drafting classes.
Snap, I'm just learning so much from you. Thank you for sharing it all. Seems Oma was a wise one.
What fabric is that there Mr 🌽
Just regular cotton. Probably some sort of polyester blend even?!. It was just a bedsheet.
@@CorneliusQuiring thank you bunches. I was making postponed, a green ranger summer hoodie now I'm finishing it.
Nice. Hopefully the final product is to your liking.
What’s the name of ur machine?
I have a random machine that I bought by chance at a thrift store.
Will a change in fabric require you to alter your pattern or make it more difficult to sew? Especially those areas with all those curves?
Ps. Your scissor ASMRs are untouchable.
I have no clue, so I'm going to make the full thing and see what happens. Learn from it and hopefully make one last one thats the final, final one.
Also I just gotta get a scissor sponsor onboard now :)
@@CorneliusQuiring ah the infamous "coat_v2_final_final"
Haha. Indeed!
Hindi Mai batiye sir
Is so annoyingly awful how handsome you are and cute, i'd love you to make me suits i would wear them all my life haha.
🤓🙏🏻 Thanks for watching.
Sorry.....ohne Bart wären sie viel hübscher !
😢
stopped watching because of the ridiculous amount of adds.