Black Diamond Presents: Magic Line with Carlo Traversi
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2022
- At the end of February 2022, Black Diamond Athlete Carlo Traversi made the fourth ascent of the legendary Magic Line (5.14c), a mythical Ron Kauk testpiece in Yosemite Valley. First climbed in 1996, the line sat unrepeated for 22 years before seeing its second and third ascents in 2018 and 2019. Watch Carlo rack up and place all his gear on lead in this film.
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I appreciated the simplicity of the shooting and editing, as well as the superb ascent. Thanks!
Yes! Just the send, no influencer nonsense.
Wish more climbing films were like this. Really appreciate the simplicity. Can actually get a sense for what climbing the route felt like.
He climbs it so smoothly and quietly though that it looks like he’s climbing a 5.9.
This is the best video BD has put out in a long time. No BS, no interviews, no drone shots or dramatic music, just a guy climbing hard in good style.
BD - save yourself the production cost this is the kind of video we want to see.
I don't want your fuckin drone shots I want the climbing equivalent of a 90s skate movie
This is the perfect climbing video. No pseudo-philosophical babble, no background track, no cuts. Just hard climbing and gear placements.
Great edit! No fluff, great climbing, great video!
i wish there was footage of Hazel sending this, i feel like it went under the radar, and it was such an important send.
@Bobo Jenkins thanks for that Bobo, brilliant contribution.
That was indeed a lot of little gear!
And, the sound of the adjacent waterfall was bliss. Great work, great doc!
It's so rad to hear the power of the falls as that young man crushed that climb.
Nice work.
Great edit, I love the stillness of this video... Up until the victory shouts at the end, which are the perfect climax to the great climbing.
Absolutely walked. Looked like 5.11
Grear job on not blasting music amd chopping the semd into a dozen different cuts with emotional phrases and sports interviews in between. This is great, just the sounds of the environment and just the film of the send. Well done.
Wow! One of the hardest trad lines in the world and Carlo looks like he cruised it!
Indeed, he made that look so easy
Everything I love about the tenuous nature of granite climbing. Wish this was in my backyard. Echo the other comments regarding simplicity of footage and lack of commentary. Just made me feel like I was right there watching some serious rock wizardry.
Hard to even call that a crack... more like a 'slight crease' 😅 full-crimpimg that sidepull edge to infinity! Also, the smearing looks horrendous... truly impressive!!
the “eugggggh” noise i made when he pulled on. that doesn’t even look fun to climb
Love the focus on the climbing in this video. Carlo's style is so precise and efficient.
Incredible. It’s great not to be distracted by the voiceover and music - you really enter that “blackout” zone with Carlo! Through the hole thing he was so dialed and calm that you would have thought this was 5.9+. You can really see a decisive moment at 5:10 that could have ended it all. Really speaks to wanting it. Great job!
Very refreshing video ! No philosophical talking, no music, few editing. Thanks
My toes hurt just from watching this. Best climbing video I've seen in recent memory.
What an exceptional video. By far the best footage of this climb too!
Thanks for adapting this video to the feedback you got the last times. A lot of people wished videos without cuts and music and they got it :) Very sympathic!
epic video of an epic send! My hands were so sweaty watching this!! I really enjoy watching Carlo climb, he has a [seemingly] very simple and efficient style.
Great, pure, awesome. Thanks!
Exceptional video that showcases hand and foot work as well as placement of pieces!
Amazing video! Congrats to Carlo and the production team
God damn carlo is a beast. Magic line and meltdown! Made that look chill. Get's me psyched to climb hard on gear!
This is in my opinion the best video of a climb that exists
This format of content is fantastic. Congratulations on the ascent
Merci pour cette belle video toute simple!!
Et bravo Carlo!!!
Thanks a lot..
Been waiting for a Magic Line vid since Hazel's send!
Incredible video style & climbing 🔥🔥🔥
This is raw and sick. Very inspirational!!
Great to hear no music, nature sounds only, the absence of constant shouted encouragement. Great video.
Ron Kauk would be proud of the way you aced his route!
Amazing footage of amazing climbing; congrats!
Incredible video. That thing looked so fun! Wish I was good enough to try it
very nice climbing, loved watching this - nice and controlled, made it look easier than it is
Such a clean line
Cruised it like magic. Simple effective style video so we can see the real experience
Carlo is the man!
That looks hard. I find it amazing what people can use as footholds and trust it while clipping.
beautiful!
This edit almost put me in the flow state with carlo, chilling…
Sublime & mesmerizing
Ready for this
Take note of all those c3s, Black Diamond! Take my money!
Amazing!
ooph! more of this please.
Is this an advertisement for c3s that are going to come back? I'm assuming a pro would only use the latest and greatest.
What like his old hiangles?
He's using camp kit as well and he's not even sponsored by them, there is a long history of climbers using non sponsor/old kit.
@@sebastianflynn1746 BD doesn't make ball nuts but they do make small cams. It was a sarcastic comment meant to point out the fact that c3s should never have been discontinued.
@@jamief2488 I don't know anybody that wears BD shoes.
Yeah funny that is a BD video with a cam they no longer produce and a Metolous UL....
edit: was that a Metolous or a ball nut?
Nice send Carlo! Now you just need to play Big Mountains Rasta Man when you climb it next!
I like how on trad climbs you actually have to put in gear for a send. For some reason on sport routes you can have pre-placed gear and still counts for a send. That must have been some insane amount of body tension.
I agree. Adam Ondra has some crazy sends in the 15 realm, but they all have perma draws. Not saying Ondra's climbs are not impressive at the least - but seeing someone take the time to play with the gear on their harness and actually place it and also clip the rope is definitely way gnarlier than just clipping pre-placed gear
I miss the 5.10 Hiangles.
beautiful place to do a beautiful thing
His name is Traversi, but he went straight up!
Great video, felt like it was mostly continuous except for one gear placement. Love this style of climbing videos. You can really see why Ron did it on preplaced gear, those clipping stances look tenuous. Such an incredible line. The route name is fitting.
Could you explain what preplaced gear is? It looks like he placed it all as he was climbing so I don’t think I quite understand. Thanks!
@@derekstanyer He's talking about the "first ascensionist" (not really though, because the gear wasn't placed on lead), legend Ron Kauk, who climbed it like a sport climb by pre-placing all the gear. His son later came and did the real FA IIRC.
@@Steven-ro6os thanks, I see I just misread!
@@derekstanyer Sorry for the confusion, Ron Kauk (the person who did the first ascent) did it with pre placed gear quite some time ago. So the cams/stoppers/protection were placed on rappel and then he led it, clipping the gear but not having to put the gear in the rock on his send. Carlo placed all the gear on lead, which has been the case for the 3 people who have repeated it, which is better style.
Wow!
Anybody got an ID on his helmet?
Okay BD, here's an awesome video of one of your incredibly skilled and dedicated athletes doing crazy climbing... with a rack of C3's!! Why not dust off some old designs and bring it back? BD had the Totem before totems were toteming, and every climber I know that still has some cherishes them like gold (me included)! Maybe bring it up to date a bit, perhaps explore a thinner cam along the axle axis for access into pin scars and pods. Bring back the C3!
Thank you for giving us a beautifully shot climbing video of actual send footage, instead of 90% back story of how the climber got abandoned by his parents as a kid but then changed everything when he came to the Valley.
If you can't appreciate a great story then I feel sorry for you. Props on making light of being abandoned by a parent, you sound like a really good person
I think that the second ascent was in 2016. In either case, what is cool is that the second ascent was done by Lonnie Kauk; Ron's son.
Was this an OnSite Flash? The way it’s filmed makes it seem so. As an OldHead it’s cool to see a High•End trad line sent w/o preplaced gear/pink point ascent that so many do. Beautiful send 🙏🏽Oos!!
Travis made that look way less desperate than it actually is. That is a seriously sustained line with super thin fingers and feet from start to finish requiring the frequent placement of small gear in order to protect it adequately. The fact that Travis was able to find the rests he needed to be able to place all of that gear is a true testament to his skill, patience and endurance! While it would still be a significantly challenging line to climb if it were bolted, trad climbing it takes it to a whole other level of difficulty that must be recognized in order to genuinely appreciate this effort.
That Travis Carlosi guy sure is a good climber
My apologies to Carlo and everyone else for referring to him as Travis - don't know what I was thinking, although it was quite late at night when I watched the video and left my comment...
Capolavoro assoluto sta fessura
which bd helmet is he using?
Climbed that line like a boss.
I remember when Ron originally put this up, then how much work Lonnie Kauk put in to do the first lead. Wonder how long it would have been before it got a second lead if Kauk’s footage didn’t come out? Cool video though, watch Lonnie’s as well⚡️✌🏽
I wonder what gear Ron Kauk used on the first ascent. I know it was a pink point but still, what gear that size did they have back then? Pitons and nuts?
Nuts and sliders were common in thin cracks back then, but not pitons. In the 1980s sometimes you'd run across "pins", which were something between a bolt and a piton used to protect minuscule cracks.
@@marcopervo I think a pin is just another word for a piton
Is that a new helmet? it seems like a Vapor with the stiff part of the Vision...
What a killer send. I'm not familiar with his clipping technique. Seems to work really well, does anyone know what he's doing differently?
Type in Adam ondra clipping. Should be a video on it.
Physically what he's doing is catching the rope in the crook between his thumb and index finger, and wrapping his entire hand around the carabiner as he clips in. When the rope meets the carabiner, he pivots his hand whichever direction so the rope passes through the carabiner. He then drops his hand, taking the weight of the rope off of his hand and onto the carabiner, and his hand is free to continue climbing. With his hand holding the carabiner steady, it's less likely to knock around or be an awkward clip. It's a nice smooth technique that feels good, especially when there's some slack in the system. If there's a lot of drag or your belayer has you tighter, it's a little harder.
that footwork is insane!
@blackdiamond, when your athletes are still using C3's maybe there's some demand from others who don't want to drop 150$ on the project for a 10 year old cam.
fez parecer facil!
Carlo Traversi 👑💪🦶🦶🦵🦵🦿🦿🦶🏿🦶🏼🦶🏼🦵🦿🦾👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍
do not know how to write in English, now it's a Google translation Writes to you and do not always understand the Google translation, so I sent you icons of feet and feet and heart and hands hope you understand that I send you all the respect very beautiful really impressive and beautiful type you are great 👑💪🔥❤👏👏👏
Climb in high waterfall it's Amazeee black diamond gear 🔥👏👏
Fuck yes indeed
He made it look like 5.9
astonishing clean climbing, well done video! how was it taken? there was no noise of a throne?
Fixed line to the side. Every time it cuts its the videographer jummaring up to catch up
How does a boulderer have this much endurance?? Well done Mr. Traversi! :)
Sweet climbing. Sweet video. And no wonder why BD is sold out of micro Z4s, Carlo's using all of them for Magic Line!
has carlo ever put up a new horizontal route and called it "the Traversi"?
BA!!!
Holy shit! Carlo, the fucking lizard!
In a youtube space where everything is sold with flashy music and annoying dialog it is so peaceful to watch a climber just cruising through a hard climb with the waterfall as sound effect
Can’t believe how much gear it took for the send lol. Tells you how marginal each piece must be.
Faltaron los vuelos!
Am I confused, or did he back clip the second piece at 1:49?
When you clip that particular cam, the biner is going to have a 90 degree twist in it either way you clip the rope. It doesn't really matter which way it's clipped unless you're traversing
Backclipping only really applies to quickdraws, you can't really backclip a sling (like on a cam) because it'll twist around anyway
@@TheJeffDing learn something new every day, thanks
Would you ever do a video of a paraplegic climber/skier? Aka I am one and want to show what is possible and that the only limitations is your mind.
damn it looks like you could just randomly peel off at any moment
i can’t image what 5.15 cracks are gonna look like
This, but in a roof
Floated it. :D
Thank you for not playing music
or voice over
footholds where? ;)
What's with all the back-clipping..? I recall at least 3.
Awesome smooth climbing no less.
That was an awesome CDI video. probably made in a studio on a horizontal fake concrete wall….
Nah………..
I didnt notice Christian Bale can climb 5.14
This video epitomizes full blackout mode.
What?! No roots talk? No traditional tribe in there? Just Climbing and WAter???? Dam that was a breath of fresh air in climbing videos!!!!
Big ups @carlotraversi
It looks like it requires laybacking slopers on an arete' than jamming a crack, and that's probably why it took climbers from a new generation to repeat it.
You know its sponsored by Black Diamond when he uses about $2,000 worth of cams on the way up. But jokes aside, this is sick! congratulations
Let’s get him on cobra
zen