@@ChristopherUtley-t9b Good question. Although the exception for 2/0 is allowed, I prefer to use 3/0 just out of personal preference. It’s what I’d want at my house, just in case. Also, we use a ton of 3/0 on other commercial jobs so I always have scrap available. Don’t have to buy 2/0.
As a former stucco guy I’d cook you a carne asada for not cutting the wall all the way through to fit your power panel. You’re one in a million Bro!!😎 love your work !!
Learned that from my stucco guy after the first time I DID cut all the way through. He was like, “WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU CUT IT! I NEED THE CHICKEN WIRE!” Love my stucco guy! Glad you like the channel!
Glad it’s been helpful. Always feel free to let me know what videos I should make that might be helpful to you. I can’t promise I can make them but I’ll definitely try. Safe Wiring!
I subscribed immediately after finishing the video. Thank you for the education. Great production and quality. No time wasted, straight to the point, and step by step instructions. I'm about to start applying for an apprenticeship. Excited to enter this fascinating field!
Glad you found it helpful and informative. And yes, I really like to get straight to the point in my videos. Congratulations on the apprenticeship! Just remember sometimes work gets tough but keep going. The electrical trade will pay off!
Really nice work and great tips. I always remind people to scrutinize all the blacks to make sure there are no nicks in the jackets or brittle old wires. Nothing like doing a fresh job with a bunch of junk.
Working for a company that does residential definitely doesn’t pay as well as commercial or industrial work but if you do residential side jobs or start your own business, sky is the limit.
I agree. My company Landers Electric does about 50/50 commercial to residential. I wouldn’t say sky is the limit but there have been a lot of opportunities since I started the company in 2021. Biggest issue I see is having to spot bad contractors and customers so we don’t get into really bad financial battles or situations. One thing I think customers and contractors forget is that I choose to allow them to be my customer just as much as they hire me to be their electrician.
@@YourDad-kt3yp The local in my area starts their residential electricians at $18 an hour and top out at $40. Their commercial electricians start at $25 and top out around $63. When it comes to the union, nobody wants to do residential because of the pay and I don’t blame them.
Not an electritian but did a panel upgrade for someone in California, weird ass outdoor panels, had a pair of hv gloves with leather overs, opted to pull the meter and a good call, all the screws in the meter socket were less than tight, put a blank over that, did the job then stuffed the meter back in. Had a welding hood and leather jacket over a good cotton duck jacket and standing on dry pine boards just in case! Main panel had 4 breakers and a cartridge main. Made a little weathertight house over the panel, added quad down the bottom and a pull chain light, E-inspector was pleased with the presentation. Glad you're healing up okay, burns suck!
Great pacing and explanation of the overall process bro...nice and simple and easy for just about anyone to understand. Great job; from one sparky to another. Keep the fire in the wire 👊
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate the encouragement! Going to keep making content just like this. I don’t like a lot of fluff in videos. I don’t think it’s helpful. And I absolutely hate background music when I’m explaining something.
Best real electrician channel I’ve seen yet. I’m almost three years in but really only have experience in solar and industrial. Can’t wait to try commercial. Question - how did you tie in to the utility? Like what fastener was used? Also for video ideas I really enjoy this informative type of “how to” videos. I enjoy anything with trade related tips on how to be more fast and efficient
Thanks and I’m really glad to hear you find the content helpful. I enjoy creating to the point tutorials with no fluff. As far as the connectors for the utility, I don’t make that connection. I have seen some use Polaris taps or split bolts but I don’t think those are approved means. The utility in this area where the video was filmed uses copper coated 2 bolt clamp on connectors. I don’t know the part number but that’s what they use.
Apprentice here a question that comes to mind is do the power lines coming from the post need to change in size now? And Do you automatically get 200A just by changing the panel? Thanks. Awesome video subscribed.
The utility lines normally do not have to change. The power company usually says their wires are good for 200 amps. They can be very small, #2 aluminum can easily handle 200 amps because they dissipate heat more easily than our wires do. They’re not bound by the NEC so the utility wires are not rated by the same ampacity table that the wires from the service on in are. What makes it 200 amp is the size of the service wires and the main breaker. I hope this answers your questions.
By any chance did the AHJ inspector ask you for AFCI brakers on this upgrade? Or is it just for new construction or remodeling + addition work? I see that you have a whole house surge protector too, i wonder if that is required for all upgrades in California.
In my area, AFCI breakers are not required for an upgrade. Only if we add a circuit. And I’ve never actually looked up the code for the surge protector, but every inspector in my area asks for them.
Are you not allowed to use aluminum wire for service in your area? Just curious being copper is so expensive. Would love to see a video of how you would get new circuit into that panel once stucko is repaired.
You know I’ve never asked or looked it up in the code. I prefer copper anytime I can. Definitely will make a video next time we install a circuit in an existing panel in stucco.
Great question. It’s a junction box. It’s really helpful especially if you have circuits coming in from the bottom or side. There’s a chase that goes up and behind the meter into the upper panel compartment.
So I have the same panel (200amp) outside the garage and want to a 50amp breaker to add a NEMA 14-50 outlet in the inside garage for EV charging, where would I wire run through on the is box ?
The bottom right section of the panel is a junction box. You can come out of the back of that section. Make sure you use a licensed electrician for all electrical work and never work with the power on.
@ ok but I’m asking can the electrical panels be located inside the house I noticed in the county I live in that the houses mostly have the electrical panels outside
Great question! It is a little difficult. What you want to do is make sure you measure from the edge of the panel to the outermost edge of the knockout. On the panel shown in the video I believe it’s about half an inch or an inch. Then I get a flashlight and shine it up and make sure that my hole saw is that far off the stud. I use a slightly oversized hole saw to give myself a little bit of play. After I drill up through the two or three top plates, I then take a really long pilot bit and try and hit center. If my pilot bit won’t reach, then I use the old hole, where the old riser was going up, and measure over to my new hole from underneath where the stucco is. Sometimes I have to break the stucco out a little higher so I can get the measurements. Once I have that measurement I can go on the roof and measure off the old hole. Then I go up on the roof and drill a pilot down. Then go back down and shine the flashlight up and see how close you are. You might need to move it a little bit to make sure you’re dead Center. Once you’re really close drill your hole down through the shingles of the roof. This entire process gets much more difficult if you have a tile roof or Spanish S shaped roof tiles.
@@landerselectric thank you for the reply and detailed response! ive always wondered what would be the best way to attack that situation! thanks again!
Dang that's a way old pannel, what was it and its AMP rating? Is it CA or NEC code for 2 ground rods? Wow they like the meaters low there!! Most of the meaters are lot higher hear in TX at least on the older ones, not sure new ones. Is that pannel over kill for that house?
Ya we run into a lot of panels like this one. This is a 200 amp solar ready panel which means the main breaker is 200 amps but the bussing is 225 amps. And yes, we’re allowed a minimum of 48” to center of the meter. And no, it’s not overkill because so many people are installing EV chargers and changing their appliances to electric.
@@landerselectric thanks for the info Around here 200AMP is about stanard, Just was curious cas it sure looked like a small house with those few brakers the old pannel had. What was the old pannel?
Why are there multiple grounding points? I've seen issues with lightning and multiple grounding locations. One house in particular has lost all their appliances multiple times. They removed all but one ground and solved the problem.
Good question. The national electric code requires at least two ground rods unless you can prove that you have 25 ohms resistance to one single ground rod. The wire you see clamped onto the cold water technically isn’t a ground. It’s a bond. What it’s doing is providing protection in the event that there’s a short to any of the water pipes in the house.
I might be wrong but I believe we need to use 250.66 for the ground rods (grounding electrode conductor #4 for 3/0 copper) and table 250.102 (C)(1) for the cold water bond. Also see 250.104 (A) (3) and 250.104 (D)(1). Let me know if I’m seeing that correctly. I believe they are all saying we have to use Table 250.102 (C)(1). I’m using 3/0 copper so that would be #4 copper
Any of yall work for residential for a company in southern Cali lmk if yall need helper got the experience just trynna get back into it or any suggestions!!
In most situations, it’s only used with aluminum conductors. My apprentice actually just told me, though that the code doesn’t actually require it. What do you think?
So you landed all the breakers on the same phase? Derp. And you never seal all 4 sides of roof penetration boots. Water needs to drain out from the bottom edge. Sloppy work.
I can understand how you might think that they’re on the same phase but take a closer look at the bussing. And good thinking, but on a roof I don’t think it’s good practice to leave the 4th side open. Roofs need to be 100 percent sealed. Fixtures and boxes on exterior walls yes three sides but not roofs.
BEST Electrical Multi-Meter that I use everyday!
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Have you ever done a 200 AMP electrical panel upgrade?
Fuk ye sir, good vid!
You didn't show the terminating of the meter tho!!
@@UnKL_ChiVo The utility company asked me not to show their work or their guys. Have to respect their wishes.
@@landerselectric bastards
Why did you use 3/0 Inatead of 2/0
@@ChristopherUtley-t9b Good question. Although the exception for 2/0 is allowed, I prefer to use 3/0 just out of personal preference. It’s what I’d want at my house, just in case. Also, we use a ton of 3/0 on other commercial jobs so I always have scrap available. Don’t have to buy 2/0.
As a former stucco guy I’d cook you a carne asada for not cutting the wall all the way through to fit your power panel. You’re one in a million Bro!!😎 love your work !!
Learned that from my stucco guy after the first time I DID cut all the way through. He was like, “WHY IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU CUT IT! I NEED THE CHICKEN WIRE!” Love my stucco guy! Glad you like the channel!
As an apprentice this is definitely my new favorite channel
Glad it’s been helpful. Always feel free to let me know what videos I should make that might be helpful to you. I can’t promise I can make them but I’ll definitely try. Safe Wiring!
I subscribed immediately after finishing the video. Thank you for the education. Great production and quality. No time wasted, straight to the point, and step by step instructions. I'm about to start applying for an apprenticeship. Excited to enter this fascinating field!
Glad you found it helpful and informative. And yes, I really like to get straight to the point in my videos. Congratulations on the apprenticeship! Just remember sometimes work gets tough but keep going. The electrical trade will pay off!
That service at the weather head is probably the best I’ve ever seen!
We try!!
Really nice work and great tips. I always remind people to scrutinize all the blacks to make sure there are no nicks in the jackets or brittle old wires. Nothing like doing a fresh job with a bunch of junk.
Really good tip! Thanks!
Working for a company that does residential definitely doesn’t pay as well as commercial or industrial work but if you do residential side jobs or start your own business, sky is the limit.
I agree. My company Landers Electric does about 50/50 commercial to residential. I wouldn’t say sky is the limit but there have been a lot of opportunities since I started the company in 2021. Biggest issue I see is having to spot bad contractors and customers so we don’t get into really bad financial battles or situations.
One thing I think customers and contractors forget is that I choose to allow them to be my customer just as much as they hire me to be their electrician.
Yep. I'm a one man residential electrician in PA. Make great money, pick the jobs I want, and never really run out of work.
Cap I make 2750 a week but I work 6 days 12 hr days they not making that
I only know this cause I’ve done commercial and industrial
@@YourDad-kt3yp The local in my area starts their residential electricians at $18 an hour and top out at $40. Their commercial electricians start at $25 and top out around $63. When it comes to the union, nobody wants to do residential because of the pay and I don’t blame them.
Not an electritian but did a panel upgrade for someone in California, weird ass outdoor panels, had a pair of hv gloves with leather overs, opted to pull the meter and a good call, all the screws in the meter socket were less than tight, put a blank over that, did the job then stuffed the meter back in. Had a welding hood and leather jacket over a good cotton duck jacket and standing on dry pine boards just in case! Main panel had 4 breakers and a cartridge main. Made a little weathertight house over the panel, added quad down the bottom and a pull chain light, E-inspector was pleased with the presentation. Glad you're healing up okay, burns suck!
Glad you were able to get it done safely. And yes, very thankful I’m 100% healed!
Hey dude you didn’t have to make this video but we thank you for doing so
You’re welcome! Hope it helps some!
Great pacing and explanation of the overall process bro...nice and simple and easy for just about anyone to understand. Great job; from one sparky to another. Keep the fire in the wire 👊
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate the encouragement! Going to keep making content just like this. I don’t like a lot of fluff in videos. I don’t think it’s helpful. And I absolutely hate background music when I’m explaining something.
Best real electrician channel I’ve seen yet. I’m almost three years in but really only have experience in solar and industrial. Can’t wait to try commercial. Question - how did you tie in to the utility? Like what fastener was used? Also for video ideas I really enjoy this informative type of “how to” videos. I enjoy anything with trade related tips on how to be more fast and efficient
Thanks and I’m really glad to hear you find the content helpful. I enjoy creating to the point tutorials with no fluff.
As far as the connectors for the utility, I don’t make that connection. I have seen some use Polaris taps or split bolts but I don’t think those are approved means. The utility in this area where the video was filmed uses copper coated 2 bolt clamp on connectors. I don’t know the part number but that’s what they use.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Good work man 5th year here doing commercial and residential and troubleshooting service work these are great to know
Hey Thanks! Excited for you! Almost there.
Great job, nice clean work.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Good shit bro, you can tell you enjoy what you do. Getting paid for the work and now for creating into content good shit
Glad you enjoyed it! Definitely do love being an electrician!
You did such an outstanding job!
Great video work! Stay positive always and completely ignore any negative comments!
Thanks for the encouragement! Hope it was helpful!
Great job! Thanks!
You bet!
Great video man 👍🏼
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Awesome and well explained video thanks for uploading
You’re welcome! Hope it helped.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
You’re welcome!
Cool content!
Glad you liked it! Hope it helped!
Good job ⚡️⚡️⚡️ thank you for your time.
You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
@@landerselectric best example and tips how do it right.
Ive never seen these inset services being on theh east coast. I think florida may have them. Thats awesome.
They’re really nice!
This was an awesome cideo
Glad you liked it!
Apprentice here a question that comes to mind is do the power lines coming from the post need to change in size now? And Do you automatically get 200A just by changing the panel? Thanks. Awesome video subscribed.
Great question. We do have to upsize both the rigid conduit and the wire.
The utility lines normally do not have to change. The power company usually says their wires are good for 200 amps. They can be very small, #2 aluminum can easily handle 200 amps because they dissipate heat more easily than our wires do. They’re not bound by the NEC so the utility wires are not rated by the same ampacity table that the wires from the service on in are. What makes it 200 amp is the size of the service wires and the main breaker. I hope this answers your questions.
How did you secure the riser? Or did you not?. The only thing holding that riser in place is the panel hub threads and the hole in the top plate
😂
What did you use to connect the rigid conduit to the panel? Locknuts or a hub?
For this panel I used locknuts because it’s recessed into the wall. For a surface mount I use a Meyers hub.
By any chance did the AHJ inspector ask you for AFCI brakers on this upgrade? Or is it just for new construction or remodeling + addition work? I see that you have a whole house surge protector too, i wonder if that is required for all upgrades in California.
In my area, AFCI breakers are not required for an upgrade. Only if we add a circuit. And I’ve never actually looked up the code for the surge protector, but every inspector in my area asks for them.
@@landerselectric Thanks for the info
Are you not allowed to use aluminum wire for service in your area? Just curious being copper is so expensive. Would love to see a video of how you would get new circuit into that panel once stucko is repaired.
You know I’ve never asked or looked it up in the code. I prefer copper anytime I can. Definitely will make a video next time we install a circuit in an existing panel in stucco.
For this model of Square D panel, what do you call the compartment below the meter socket. Also, whats the purpose?
Great question. It’s a junction box. It’s really helpful especially if you have circuits coming in from the bottom or side. There’s a chase that goes up and behind the meter into the upper panel compartment.
What is requirements for strapping 2" conduit inside the wall?
I believe we need 1 strap and the utility company doesn’t allow any couplings.
What state are you in? I’ve never seen through the wall risers like that!
I’m in CA
@@landerselectric cool man. I came up in TX, now in TN. I’ve never seen as much bad work as when I moved to TN. Love the content brother!
Nice job brother! Just curious what state you're in, equipment set ups remind me of Florida
I’m in CA.
Correct. I am too awesome. Great vid??
Glad you liked it!
Hey bud are u in California...i need an upgrade
Yes sir. We’re in San Diego. We do upgrades in San Diego and Orange County.
So I have the same panel (200amp) outside the garage and want to a 50amp breaker to add a NEMA 14-50 outlet in the inside garage for EV charging, where would I wire run through on the is box ?
The bottom right section of the panel is a junction box. You can come out of the back of that section. Make sure you use a licensed electrician for all electrical work and never work with the power on.
Can the panel be mounted inside the home instead of outside
In my area the utility company requires the meter to be facing outside.
@ ok but I’m asking can the electrical panels be located inside the house
I noticed in the county I live in that the houses mostly have the electrical panels outside
@ I just want someone having access to my panel outside the home
how do you gaurentee that your drilling a straight and accurate hole for your new 2" riser conduit if your using a holesaw on an extension bit
Great question! It is a little difficult. What you want to do is make sure you measure from the edge of the panel to the outermost edge of the knockout. On the panel shown in the video I believe it’s about half an inch or an inch. Then I get a flashlight and shine it up and make sure that my hole saw is that far off the stud. I use a slightly oversized hole saw to give myself a little bit of play. After I drill up through the two or three top plates, I then take a really long pilot bit and try and hit center. If my pilot bit won’t reach, then I use the old hole, where the old riser was going up, and measure over to my new hole from underneath where the stucco is. Sometimes I have to break the stucco out a little higher so I can get the measurements. Once I have that measurement I can go on the roof and measure off the old hole. Then I go up on the roof and drill a pilot down. Then go back down and shine the flashlight up and see how close you are. You might need to move it a little bit to make sure you’re dead Center. Once you’re really close drill your hole down through the shingles of the roof. This entire process gets much more difficult if you have a tile roof or Spanish S shaped roof tiles.
@@landerselectric thank you for the reply and detailed response! ive always wondered what would be the best way to attack that situation! thanks again!
@@Age1117 You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
Make sure you keep the hi vis on when working on residential so all the heavy plant driving around can see you haha
Anything I can do to be safe!
Dang that's a way old pannel, what was it and its AMP rating? Is it CA or NEC code for 2 ground rods? Wow they like the meaters low there!! Most of the meaters are lot higher hear in TX at least on the older ones, not sure new ones. Is that pannel over kill for that house?
Ya we run into a lot of panels like this one. This is a 200 amp solar ready panel which means the main breaker is 200 amps but the bussing is 225 amps. And yes, we’re allowed a minimum of 48” to center of the meter. And no, it’s not overkill because so many people are installing EV chargers and changing their appliances to electric.
@@landerselectric thanks for the info Around here 200AMP is about stanard, Just was curious cas it sure looked like a small house with those few brakers the old pannel had. What was the old pannel?
@@marlawhite3682 you’re welcome! Not sure. I didn’t check.
So you run a chalk line to keep your ground wire straight?
😂😂😂 no but a great idea!!
Why are there multiple grounding points? I've seen issues with lightning and multiple grounding locations. One house in particular has lost all their appliances multiple times. They removed all but one ground and solved the problem.
Good question. The national electric code requires at least two ground rods unless you can prove that you have 25 ohms resistance to one single ground rod. The wire you see clamped onto the cold water technically isn’t a ground. It’s a bond. What it’s doing is providing protection in the event that there’s a short to any of the water pipes in the house.
Is the Hi-Viz fr rated?
😂😂😂
I believe, where not subject to damage, a number 6 copper gec is all that is required to the rods. #4 is fine but not required.
I might be wrong but I believe we need to use 250.66 for the ground rods (grounding electrode conductor #4 for 3/0 copper) and table 250.102 (C)(1) for the cold water bond. Also see 250.104 (A) (3) and 250.104 (D)(1). Let me know if I’m seeing that correctly.
I believe they are all saying we have to use Table 250.102 (C)(1). I’m using 3/0 copper so that would be #4 copper
@@landerselectricthank you for all code explanations
@@NickNurbek you’re welcome!
Any of yall work for residential for a company in southern Cali lmk if yall need helper got the experience just trynna get back into it or any suggestions!!
Unfortunately I can’t help but hopefully someone can help you find something in southern cali!
You in Cali?
Yes sir!
Noalox is not needed anymore?
In most situations, it’s only used with aluminum conductors. My apprentice actually just told me, though that the code doesn’t actually require it. What do you think?
Did u just eye ball where to drill for the 2 inch rigid
I wish. No we measured.
So you landed all the breakers on the same phase? Derp. And you never seal all 4 sides of roof penetration boots. Water needs to drain out from the bottom edge. Sloppy work.
I can understand how you might think that they’re on the same phase but take a closer look at the bussing. And good thinking, but on a roof I don’t think it’s good practice to leave the 4th side open. Roofs need to be 100 percent sealed. Fixtures and boxes on exterior walls yes three sides but not roofs.
Thank you so much for what you do! I’m learning so freaking much from you and I’m sure others are as well🫡
You’re welcome! Glad the videos are helping! I’ll do my best to keep them coming!