I have Industrial grade Nema 14-50 GFCI installed by electrician and randomly turns off EV breaker when it’s not charging or charger not plugged in. I was advised to do hardwired instead of Nema 14-50 due to GFCI incompatibility between outlet and EV charger. I want to know why some people Never had such issue ?
@@shahvatsal2391986 You are not alone. I had the same problem with my GFCI receptacle used to charge my Tesla. That means two GFCI protection on the same circuit and that caused the problem. I believe the charger has its own GFCI protection. I replaced the receptacle to regular one and since then that the problem never happened again.
The 9450 you linked to it seems some receiving them do not have the green EV logo. I assume these are just older models. Are they the same? As in still good for EV charging?
This is one of the best 14-50 EV install videos I have ever seen. I have installed a bunch of different EV charging setups over the years and you have nailed every important point. Whatever the homeowner is paying for this job is worth every penny. Kudos!
This is a really informative video. I just got my first EV and this has given me many talking points when discussing the 60A hard wire install for my EVSE with my local electrician. Thanks.
Awesome. Absolutely the best EV charger/circuit install video on RUclips. And I’ve watched a lot over the past few years. Great job with the equipment picks-especially with the RV receptacle box, Hubbel receptacle, EMT, and flex conduit. And thank you for showing everyone that you torque your connections. Only other thing to include would be a load calculation-especially when you said you installed 2 EV chargers and another circuit for the garage.
Really appreciate the input! Yeah, I definitely want to do another video on load calcs for EV chargers. That might be my next one. There’s a bit that goes into it and I think that information would be super helpful with so many people installing EV chargers these days.
You are performing a great service including your roccomendation about checking the tightness of all the older circuits in breaker box. I am not a professional but recently added a convenience Outlet on its own circuit into my garage so I had more power at my workbench. Since I had the power off, just by chance, I decided to check tightness of all my ground connections and realized several of them were loose. I then went through the whole box (with the power off) and tightened up several more that were attached to Breakers that were loose. The person that installed the panel had not torqued the breakers when he installed it. He is a friend of mine ( a licensed electrician with years of experience) so I called him and he said back then they didn't have a torque specification for those attachments but they now commonly torque all their connections. Copper is malleable and it does deform when under pressure so I assume that's the process that allows some of those connections to loosen. It is probably why they now specify torque settings for the screws so the copper doesn't deform enough to loosen the connection. Based on what has been said to me I would suggest that most people have a trained person go back through and retorque all their connections in their panel. You have done an incredible service and I would hire you in a minute but I live far away from you. Keep up your excellent work. Just that one suggestion to check for loose connections in your presentation may have saved a hot connection in many panels if it is followed. While everything in my panel is now tight, I am going to try to look up torque specifications and one afternoon go through and check that everything is torqued properly. As you said most circuits don't draw very much current but also you never know when somebody will plug in a hair dryer or a plug-in heater or some other appliance that draws a lot of power and cause a problem with a loose connection.
@@alaneverett9767 This is true . Connections loosen up on their own, either vibration, thermal cycling, etc. Tighten to spec and check on a regular schedule with torque wrench and IR temp measurement.
One of the best EV connection point installations I've seen. My Tesla connector was also installed properly and has been flawless for 5 years. Folks should understand that these are NOT chargers (all EVs have the charger built into them). These are merely "receptacles" allowing an electrical connection to the onboard EV charger.
Your editing and content are top notch! Too many creators chit chat or take no time to edit out the crap. Thanks for sharing your obvious knowledge and experience. I’m using these videos so I can be intelligent when speaking with my own licensed tradesmen and women when we do our upcoming build. Your videos give me confidence to have those conversations and quality check items to review with my hired pro. Thank you!
THANK YOU for being so vocal about a proper receptacle. I’m a fan of hardwire now, but if you’re doing a NEMA 14-50, spend the $50 on a Hubble! I’m no electrician, but I’ve seen too many videos of fried cheap NEMA 14-50 receptacles!!
Learned some good stuff, the looping of the wires in the junction box, and checking all the connections in the main panel. Also cleaning the buss connector and putting the breaker on and off several times, good stuff.
I don’t own a EV, or a house with a garage, and know nothing about electrical work. But I loved every minute of this video. I’m very OCD, and seeing you take the time to do things the right way really speaks volumes about your service. Whatever your salary is it should be doubled.
I’m not an electrician but we recently purchased a Tesla and I am looking to have a level 2 charger installed so after watching this video I I have some knowledge on what to look for when having one installed in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great work
Great video! Only one minor point - the holes you drill in the box panel for the 8-32 screws to mount the receptacle do not need to be tapped, and probably shouldn't. You want the screws to draw the Hubble receptacle tight up to the back of the panel. If both holes are tapped then there's a chance that the screw head will bottom out without drawing the receptacle flange tight against the back of the panel because there's an extra thread or two in the way. Just drill the panel holes big enough to pass the 8-32 screws and tap the flange holes from 6-32 to 8-32 separately.
Listen to this man, people. He knows what he's talking about. Especially about not using a cheap 240V receptacle. Those are designed for the low duty cycle of your cloths dryer. They were never meant for an EV charger, and will NOT take the load.
Thanks for the video. I do have a couple comments though: don't use a steel brush if the bus and stabs are tin plated which is usually the case these days whether copper or aluminum bus. The steel brush is against all the manufactures recommendations for plated buses as it damages the surfaces that were meant to prevent galvanic corrosion (i.e., dissimilar metal that are exposed to each other.) Also, rather than changing breakers, use Scotch-Brite pads to shine up the stabs; they won't do any damage but will provide a clean and low impedance connection for the new breakers.
People are going to be all over your ass for Electrical safety, Telling you just get it done. but I applaud it. That is the type of journeyman I would want teaching me as an apprentice.
😂 I’m sure they will but I don’t really care for a second. The first time a panel blows up in their face they’ll start following safety protocols. Thanks for the comment Jonathan. Good to hear from you!
@@landerselectricI started back in 1970 before OSHA, mandatory PPE & safety rules. After I plugged in a old 480 volt twist lock plug with non dead front. ( Came with a flimsy piece of cardboard or plastic that always fell off. Any way I did not see that a few strands came off of the screw. Small flash that burnt all the hair off my knuckles - partially up my arm. Had to pick.out small pieces of copper out of my skin. After that always wore safety glasses and replaced over 30 of these dangerous plugs. The 120 volt non dead front male plugs were outlawed around 1971 but scum bag lying cheating communist china still made them for next 20 years. Only flee markets and some fly by night hardware stores sold them.
Good to see a solid connection from the panel to the outlet. I've seen people post pics saying...what is this box it's smoking and melted... And found out their electrician put a disconnect on the line for whatever reason like for a heat pump or pool motor.
Thank you for emphasizing the NEMA 14-50R receptacle needing to be Industrial Grade for Continuous EV charging...Glad there are still competent Electricians out there, Subscribed! That knockout tool is awesome as well, did not know they existed, I had the same issue looking for a box with the correct size to fit the Hubbell 14-50R.
Beautiful work, by an electrician who knows his craft and cares that his work will last and will be safe. He made the conduit bend look easy, but I'm here to tell you that the second box offset messes up my 90 every time with that short of a piece of EMT ;) About EV receptacles -- Lander is spot on choosing a heavy duty cycle receptacle. I don't buy from Amazon though -- too easy to get counterfeit product. Bryant also has a good 14-50 for EV charging. You taught me something about the unused busbar spots -- thanks for that. I personally would not use a quad for this application out of concern for heat build-up
This was good to see. I plan on having a electrician install a EV charge outlet. It's always interesting to watch craft workers doing their thing. This will also let me ask for certain parts.
@@landerselectric I'll ask questions of the electricians while he/she is looking around to figure out a price. Your video gives me a standard to expect.
@@landerselectric What's interesting I was reading up some Reddit comments. Some people think it's a waste of money to buy the more expensive Hubbell units. They made the claim if it's a 14-50 Nema unit it's good. I made the comment that they should read the instructions that are on the packages. Those lower price ones at less than $15 may have a warning that it is not intended for use to charge an EV. I never saw any responses yet as it can happen when dealing with others on the internet. I generally don't trust comments on a forum like Reddit. Anyone can say anything they want and some people are on purposely trying to screw up people.
I have been asked if I know how to install car chargers. I am not an electrician and I would never attempt one but curious what's involved. I enjoyed this very much. I will tell people though to make sure they get a Hubbell. 🙌
Great content! Thank you for confirming that the Hubble 9450A is worth the splurge. Your explanation is consistent and makes for great content. Though I find it troubling that you described a ground rod as a potentially a piece of rebar. I also live in San Diego County, and having upgraded to 200 AMP box, know that a ground rod is more than a piece of rebar, at least per local code. (I will bet this is quite variable per local codes, but a piece of rebar per your suggestion? ) The new ground rod required for my upgraded box is much thicker than the rod which supported the initial 100 AMP service panel. It is a 6 ft rod that took two men to drive into our clay soil and then wire. Since then, our utilities have been placed under ground and solar has been added without question once the grounding was confirmed. With due respect, perhaps a piece of rebar as a ground rod will pass elsewhere, but not likely everywhere.
I appreciate your genuine concern. The rebar that I was referring to is not a ground rod as you said. Most homes built in San Diego have what’s called a ufer ground. This piece of rebar was tied in with the rest of the rebar in the concrete foundation of the building and stubs up through the slab right underneath the electrical panel in the wall. This piece of rebar is usually a 5/8 in diameter piece of rebar. This is the same diameter as the two ground rods you are speaking of. When we do electrical panel upgrades in San Diego, if there is a ufer, a piece of rebar coming out of the slab with an existing ground wire tied to it. You are allowed to tie your new bonding wire to that rebar. If you cannot find that piece of rebar that is coming out of the footing underneath the electrical panel in the wall, you must drive to ground rods outside of the wall, so the inspectors can see them. Please forgive me as I should’ve been more clear on this in the video Hope that helps!
Thank you. I got blasted on Reddit for well over a year mostly by electricians insisting what you said about receptacles is BS. Finally Leviton has acknowledged it. HOWEVER: the BEST receptacle for EV charging is NO receptacle; hardwire if at all possible. It safer and cheaper.
@ Good chargers like the one I recommend below are about $500. The extra neutral, the rv box, and the receptacle are about $120. Labor is the same. amzn.to/4hmtOms
I loved that in wall wire pull conduit sleeve “how to” . Brilliant. I still have open walls in my garage for my welding circuits I’ve ran and maybe I need to upgrade the wire from 8 guage to 6 guage for future proofing. I don’t know if I’ll buy and EV but if I did I’d want to be able to charge it at 60 amps. Thanks for this very concise, great tips and especially the conduit bending. I’ve bent 3/4” for box offsets and boy that stuff is tough on a long run. Got it done though, glad mine was straight runs with just box offsets.
Definitely one of the best videos describing everything you are doing with emphasis on double/tripple/quadruple checking the panel to make sure it’s not live. One thing I would strongly recommend is wearing some safety glasses just make sure your eye sight is properly protected. I know you are a professional and know his already. You are already wearing your vest and I’m sure you have ear protection so wearing eye protection is PARAMOUNT. I can’t tell you how much I hated wearing them but there has been a few times I have gotten close calls. I took that as my sign from the universe or call it whatever you want, but them glasses are now my first PPE I put on, especially when working with metal where you may use a grinder and there’s metal shavings or it may just be a screw that jumps out and may catch your eyes. Don’t mess with your eye sight. It’s better to take the few extra steps to go them from your storage area. Be safe out there. Great job.
Really appreciate the reminder. As I was editing the video I thought why didn’t I have my safety glasses on? I know better than this! Truly thanks for the response and reminder!
It is refreshing to see someone take the time to no do something live. Around here people are suppose to shut off a panel before working in it although I don't think I have see anyone do it until getting yelled at by an inspector.
I just subscribed to your channel, and I like how you explain every detail in your videos, please keep sharing your knowledge/experience. Im an apprentice in residential and all your content is very helpful and informative. Thank you so very much sir!
There might be a contractor who is willing to take you on part time. If you’re not in one already I would look into local apprenticeship programs. They can get you work.
Great video and excellent work, but a few corrections. 11:50 each side of the 240v outlet is 120v to ground, just like the outlets in the house but I do like protecting it with the cover anyway because the outlet doesn't have ground fault, only the EVSE itself does. And 2nd, 13:21 the quality of the outlet and how hot it gets cannot do damage to the breaker, impossible. The only reason the breaker gets damaged is either a faulty breaker, undersized, corrosion or most commonly the wire screw wasn't tightened to the proper torque but either would happen because of the current draw of the EV, and not the quality of the outlet. Even if the outlet melted so much the wires shorted, it would just trip the breaker. A common mistake by DIYers is to not torque the breaker to the manufacture's specs on the side of it. It's way more than most people realize. Even my house that was installed my a certified electrician had every single breaker torqued to way less than 1/2 of what the specs are. Also excellent tip on the wire size and type but you might mention length. At 60 amps, 6 awg wire is chewing up about a watt per foot or 55W in the wire itself on a 50ft run even though the insulation can handle it. It looks like your run was short through the wall so it wouldn't matter. 34:46 Having the outlet mounted to the faceplate to torque the screws is crucial. It's really hard to hold the outlet and torque it. And I love you re-torque all the breakers, that's super quality work there!
You do a great job teaching. You don't babble about things that don't make a difference...but you include all the helpful bits. The single thing I didn't like is the quad breakers. I hate them...and customers don't understand them when you explain them...or years later. If you have unused lugs that sat with no breaker for years...clean it up and use regular breakers. Lastly...why didn't this install require an afci/gfi breaker?
Appreciate the feedback! I try to keep it concise and focused on the important details. I hear you on the quad breakers. I actually went back and replaced them and moved the other breakers around so they would fit in nicely. And as far as GFCI, we’re still on the 2017 code cycle. We’re not required yet to install GFCI. Inspector passed this one no problem.
With regard to the GFI, my understanding is they have been extremely problematic because they accidentally trip. The reason being is that most EVSE/chargers have already knew built-in, and the manufacturers recommend not adding one.
The absolute best ev charger plug install I have seen. Great points not covered in other videos. You used black 6g for all current carrying conductors but recoded one to white and another to red. I thought NEC did not allow recoding on 6g and smaller, only on 4g and larger. To enlarge the hole what are your thoughts on using a oops arbor with a hole saw the size of the existing and the larget size hole saw
Glad you liked it. For the ungrounded conductors there’s no issue phasing but technically you are correct on the neutral. Should have bought white wire or striped it with 3 white stripes continuous along the entire length of the wire. Good catch!
You’re welcome! I have a friend who lives in Charlotte. He said prices are comparable to Southern California. Down here I charge 1000 bucks. He might be able to find it a little bit cheaper than that.
ABSOLUTELY A FANTASTIC AND METICULOUS INSTALLATION! A+ install. One thing I would also point out, which you probably just do but non-electricians might not be aware of, is to make sure all strands get inserted under the clamp connection and to make sure none of the wire insulation gets under the clamp connection too (if you don't cut enough off). Using an outdoor cover even in the garage makes a lot of sense for safety too ... however, no child will get a 240V blast though ... 120V could happen, but 240V nope! 🤣 Think about it ... Best wishes. Oh, and one last safety issue, perhaps put a sticker on the cover to turn off the breaker before plugging or unplugging the EV mobile connector??? Just a thought as people grab the plugs on both sides of it and the large hot prongs are on both sides of it too....zap....now that WILL give you a 240V blast!
Thanks for the comment, but I completely disagree that a child could not get hit 240 volt. Thinking about it, as you said, a child can easily have two pennies in their hand and try and slide the pennies into both sides at the same time. Or they grab a coat hanger or 2 screwdrivers and stick them in. Or the plug isn’t all the way in and they reach their hand up and get put up. I appreciate your comment as it helps me to further clarify the dangers of 240 volt and why we as electricians need to take every extra safety precaution to protect our customers and their families.
@@landerselectric A child's small hand firmly holding two pennies and able to simultaneously insert them far enough in a 14-50 receptacle is so extremely unlikely that I would be that has never happened in the history of the world to create a 240. Screwdrivers are usually insulated at the handle so pretty unlikely too. A coat hanger is a possibility unless it is plastic. The plugging and unplugging with exposed prongs is the more likely scenario which I why turning off the breaker when plugging in or out is a good idea for every age. Keep up the great work.
When I rebuilt my 8 AWG AL dryer circuit I was having a difficult time with the strands in the wire. When I am tightening stranded wire I always have to wiggle the wires in place and then tighten back into torque specs about 4-5 times to set the strands, since the strands can losen over time.
Great video. But, this is not code compliant for 2020 onward since you need GFCI to protect that outlet. The issue there is that GFCI may also nuisance trip an EV charger (which also has an internal GFCI). In any case, the right way to do this install (in my mind) is to hardwire the charger. That means you save on not needing to run a neutral, not needing a $100+ of outlet BOM, and not needing a $100 GFCI - plus it’s inherently safer and you can charge at 11.5 kW and not 9.6 kW. This job would have been less work and safer if gone that route. We need to start educating the general public that the NEMA 14-50 plug isn’t the right solution for EVs.
Yeah, sometimes I encounter those cheap 14-50 receptacles, I reduce the charge current on the charger in half to de-rate it for safety. Most people won't do that and just run it at the full 40 or 50 amps. It's a weird world where one has to look closely at the receptacle to figure out if a fire will start.
You just showed the general public a non code compliance installation. Review the requirements for GFCI installed in a garage 240 volt. This is specifically addressed in the N.E.C.
@@landerselectric I would recommend hard wire installation. This eliminates the possibility of an electrical shock. I know that customers like the idea of having the EV charger as portable. But I also know that if I install an electrical component and didn’t make it the safest I possibly can . The guilt I would fill if someone was injured and I had the knowledge to prevent it . Not sure if I could fill good about getting paid for that.
The electricians who installed my EV charger only used the two hots and a ground. My charger works at full capacity. Can you explain the advantage of also connecting the neutral?
Nice informative video. A few points from my 40 plus years as a journeyman, master and contractor. I always avoided quad breakers, they are very expensive and most panels are really not approved for them, you are doubling the load at the stab connection so why do you want that on a continuous load? You could of just come out the back of panel, L B straight into outlet box and eliminated the extra fishing and conduit ,it would have been a neater job in my opinion. I was pleased to see use use THHN Al the way from panel to outlet and use the APPROVED and rated device, many installers are not aware of this spec. Also I would have moved single pole breakers from top of panel to bottom to make way for new double pole breakers.
Really good feedback! Right after I installed the quad breaker, I went back two days later and moved the other loads down so that I could put in regular two pole breakers. Completely agree with you. As far as the LB, what you don’t see in the video is there was actually two EV chargers installed as well as two other 240 V receptacles for other equipment in the garage. I LB’d out of the back for those ones.
Great teaching video, thank you for making this, lots of little tips and tricks to follow. I missed the links for the quad breakers. Where can you find and what brand do you recommend? The insight for the Hubble receptacle was very helpful.
You’re welcome! As far as breaker, you need to use whatever breaker is required for your panel. If you want to upgrade, I’d use Square D, Siemens, then Eaton. In that order.
@landerselectric Thanks got it on the breaker in panel. For the receptacle I was thinking about the same safety issue. Could you also install a breaker shut off at the plug similar to what is done for an AC unit at the outside coil? This way it is safe when not in use but haven't seen a plug / disconnect in one box. Thoughts?
He’s correct. The plug that comes with box was shit. The Tesla cord would keep faulting because of high temp. Replaced with levitron EV plug and works great now.
Fuking awesome, great vid . I used awg 4 xhhw. Ultimate install. Just remember that using the tandem mini puts a lot of heat for the 3 hour or more continuous usage that nec defines continuous as. As the regular full size breaker can handle more heat. I also put nolox on the bus terminals to make sure connection is cool and no resistance as it’s an outdoor panel. And lastly, I leave a spare breaker in the panel cuz eventually the breaker will need to be replaced in 4 years. Thanks again. U rock.
Those are all really good points! Thanks! After filming this I was told by my vendor that Eaton is now recommending the BR250H. H for high magnetic. Wish I could’ve put that in the video. Only installing those breakers for Eaton now cause they keep melting! My vendor had 38 melted normal BR breakers in his office when I went in last week.
Great informative video, covering basic tools to pipe bending and using a KO set. As you said , its best to have a licensed Electrician doing this type of work. I have noticed on submittals for the upcoming 2026 NEC the requirement of GFCI for both Hardwired and Receptacle ESVE outlets leading me to believe a push for New GFCI products including ESVE charger receptacles or the chargers being built with GFCI protection. It definitely looks like things will be getting even more expensive these upcoming years with so much technology going into homes.
Glad it was helpful! I thought most EV’s already have GFCI protection inside the cars. Ive been wondering how this is going to affect the functionality considering you can’t have a GFCI downstream from another. Maybe you could expand on this a bit more? Have you come across issues with this?
@ I believe ultimately it will fall under the AHJ and the county building requirements. The goal in mind for the NEC is the safety of people, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they want AFCI included for home charger installs as well.
Great video. Do you recommend 6 THHN wire for a hard wire install for a 60amp breaker with a 48amp setting charger? Thanks. I was planning to go from the panel to junction box and then wire the charger into the junction box. What’s best to use to connect the wires in the junction box? Thanks
Yes. That’s exactly what I recommend. I really don’t like to splice EV chargers. One extra point of failure. Is there no way to pull straight through the junction box?
@ I was thinking it might easier to connect a new charger in the future vs running wires to the panel again. But the more read and watch that doesn’t make sense. Plus, I am going to install an NACS charger vs a J1772. The standard is NACS and all cars in the USA will eventually come with it vs J1772. I can use an adapter for my J1772 car now and then I’m all set for a different car with NACS in the future.
@@bradgregory3424 The standard here in the US is the J1772 unless you drive a Tesla or a few other cars. I’d be interested to see when they will change it considering the standard right now is the J1772. Hope it works out!
Hardwired for sure. Here’s my website. Scroll down a little bit and you’ll see the one I recommend. www.landerselectric.net/electric-vehicle-charger-installer
Can't say I've ever seen tradesman use a torque wrench. Interesting. Is that the only panel on the house? Is it 200 amp? I've seen people saying EV's usually require a 200 amp panel. I have a 150 and gas heat, dryer and stove so i think it should be fine. Nice work btw.
Don't think I've ever seen a circuit breaker with meter integrated into the same box. Most homes in Oklahoma have separate breaker boxes that are inside the home either in the garage or utility closet. I had a NEMA 14-50 outlet put in a few years ago. I bought a 'heavy duty' plug from Lowe's for the electrician to use. I need to change the plug for a Hubbel or Bryant unit. I normally charge my EV at only 16 amps, so I'm not putting much through the wires/plug.
Ya here they’re all installed outside. The Hubbell receptacle is nice and Leviton has one too. If you can though I’d switch to a hardwired. Less points of failure. I linked to my favorite one in the video and in the description.
Great video. Why didn't you go through the knockout in the back of the panel and just go straight through to your box with a short piece of conduit? No need for LB or extra conduit.
Good catch. We actually added (3) EV chargers and (2) 240v receptacles on this project. I did come out of the back but With other circuits. This is the harder install so I wanted to cover this way of going into the panel in case someone needs to use this method.
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Have you ever installed an electric vehicle (EV) charger?
I have Industrial grade Nema 14-50 GFCI installed by electrician and randomly turns off EV breaker when it’s not charging or charger not plugged in. I was advised to do hardwired instead of Nema 14-50 due to GFCI incompatibility between outlet and EV charger.
I want to know why some people Never had such issue ?
@@shahvatsal2391986 You are not alone. I had the same problem with my GFCI receptacle used to charge my Tesla. That means two GFCI protection on the same circuit and that caused the problem. I believe the charger has its own GFCI protection. I replaced the receptacle to regular one and since then that the problem never happened again.
The 9450 you linked to it seems some receiving them do not have the green EV logo. I assume these are just older models. Are they the same? As in still good for EV charging?
@ Great question. Yes they are older models. Still the same.
Issue resolved after doing hardwired with non-gfci breaker .
This is one of the best 14-50 EV install videos I have ever seen. I have installed a bunch of different EV charging setups over the years and you have nailed every important point. Whatever the homeowner is paying for this job is worth every penny. Kudos!
I really appreciate that! Thanks for the support.
I totally agree
@@jean-francoisfournier1190 Thanks!
As an ex (Navy) electrician, you have exactly the level of teaching for someone with electrical know now but not the specifics of this job. Thanks!
Slick install. You'd be a great teacher because you explain what you're doing, as well as why you're doing it.
Thanks! Appreciate the encouragement and glad it was helpful!
Not an electrician nor do I own an electric vehicle but here I am watching this video. Great job!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Im a tile guy and i ended up watching this video very knowledgeable you the best electrician I’ve seen
This is a really informative video. I just got my first EV and this has given me many talking points when discussing the 60A hard wire install for my EVSE with my local electrician. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful. Feel free to reach out with a comment if you have further questions.
Awesome. Absolutely the best EV charger/circuit install video on RUclips. And I’ve watched a lot over the past few years. Great job with the equipment picks-especially with the RV receptacle box, Hubbel receptacle, EMT, and flex conduit. And thank you for showing everyone that you torque your connections. Only other thing to include would be a load calculation-especially when you said you installed 2 EV chargers and another circuit for the garage.
Really appreciate the input! Yeah, I definitely want to do another video on load calcs for EV chargers. That might be my next one. There’s a bit that goes into it and I think that information would be super helpful with so many people installing EV chargers these days.
All surface conduit, that is discusting
@@coreyfranco7060 You've got the same OCD as me. Unfortunately most people will not want to pay to rip down drywall and do it the " right way " .
You are performing a great service including your roccomendation about checking the tightness of all the older circuits in breaker box. I am not a professional but recently added a convenience Outlet on its own circuit into my garage so I had more power at my workbench. Since I had the power off, just by chance, I decided to check tightness of all my ground connections and realized several of them were loose. I then went through the whole box (with the power off) and tightened up several more that were attached to Breakers that were loose. The person that installed the panel had not torqued the breakers when he installed it. He is a friend of mine ( a licensed electrician with years of experience) so I called him and he said back then they didn't have a torque specification for those attachments but they now commonly torque all their connections.
Copper is malleable and it does deform when under pressure so I assume that's the process that allows some of those connections to loosen. It is probably why they now specify torque settings for the screws so the copper doesn't deform enough to loosen the connection. Based on what has been said to me I would suggest that most people have a trained person go back through and retorque all their connections in their panel. You have done an incredible service and I would hire you in a minute but I live far away from you. Keep up your excellent work. Just that one suggestion to check for loose connections in your presentation may have saved a hot connection in many panels if it is followed. While everything in my panel is now tight, I am going to try to look up torque specifications and one afternoon go through and check that everything is torqued properly. As you said most circuits don't draw very much current but also you never know when somebody will plug in a hair dryer or a plug-in heater or some other appliance that draws a lot of power and cause a problem with a loose connection.
@@alaneverett9767 This is true . Connections loosen up on their own, either vibration, thermal cycling, etc. Tighten to spec and check on a regular schedule with torque wrench and IR temp measurement.
By far the best walk through I have seen online for doing a EV circuit.
Glad to hear it. Hope it helped!
One of the best EV connection point installations I've seen. My Tesla connector was also installed properly and has been flawless for 5 years. Folks should understand that these are NOT chargers (all EVs have the charger built into them). These are merely "receptacles" allowing an electrical connection to the onboard EV charger.
I agree, it's important to use the correct terminology and understand the components of an EV charging setup.
Your editing and content are top notch! Too many creators chit chat or take no time to edit out the crap. Thanks for sharing your obvious knowledge and experience. I’m using these videos so I can be intelligent when speaking with my own licensed tradesmen and women when we do our upcoming build. Your videos give me confidence to have those conversations and quality check items to review with my hired pro. Thank you!
You’re welcome! That’s what I’m here for. I’m glad they are helping!
If you don’t mind me asking, what are you building?
THANK YOU for being so vocal about a proper receptacle. I’m a fan of hardwire now, but if you’re doing a NEMA 14-50, spend the $50 on a Hubble! I’m no electrician, but I’ve seen too many videos of fried cheap NEMA 14-50 receptacles!!
You’re welcome and yes, I agree completely!
Leviton makes a Nema 14-50 specifically for car chargers. It’s aRound the same price.
@ good point. I think I’m gonna give theirs a try next install.
Learned some good stuff, the looping of the wires in the junction box, and checking all the connections in the main panel. Also cleaning the buss connector and putting the breaker on and off several times, good stuff.
Appreciate the feedback, glad you found it helpful.
I don’t own a EV, or a house with a garage, and know nothing about electrical work. But I loved every minute of this video. I’m very OCD, and seeing you take the time to do things the right way really speaks volumes about your service. Whatever your salary is it should be doubled.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Tons of info without the usual BS! First class install and video. Wish all were this good.
Glad you liked it. I don’t have time for filler garbage and I don’t think you do either.
I’m not an electrician but we recently purchased a Tesla and I am looking to have a level 2 charger installed so after watching this video I I have some knowledge on what to look for when having one installed in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great work
You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
There is no valuable info in this video, I would walk off the job if you started talking this nonsense
@@coreyfranco7060 Post a better tutorial Corey, we'll be waiting.
I rather not waste time helping my competition...
It's bad enough already i need to compete with landscapers doing electrical work
Great video! Only one minor point - the holes you drill in the box panel for the 8-32 screws to mount the receptacle do not need to be tapped, and probably shouldn't. You want the screws to draw the Hubble receptacle tight up to the back of the panel. If both holes are tapped then there's a chance that the screw head will bottom out without drawing the receptacle flange tight against the back of the panel because there's an extra thread or two in the way. Just drill the panel holes big enough to pass the 8-32 screws and tap the flange holes from 6-32 to 8-32 separately.
That’s a good point. I’ll do it that way from now on. Appreciate you!
Keep these videos up! Currently an apprentice and learning a lot from u!
Glad to hear it! Will definitely try to post as often as I can.might be a week or 2 before the next video. About to get really busy with the company.
Listen to this man, people. He knows what he's talking about. Especially about not using a cheap 240V receptacle. Those are designed for the low duty cycle of your cloths dryer. They were never meant for an EV charger, and will NOT take the load.
Well said!
Thanks for the video. I do have a couple comments though: don't use a steel brush if the bus and stabs are tin plated which is usually the case these days whether copper or aluminum bus. The steel brush is against all the manufactures recommendations for plated buses as it damages the surfaces that were meant to prevent galvanic corrosion (i.e., dissimilar metal that are exposed to each other.) Also, rather than changing breakers, use Scotch-Brite pads to shine up the stabs; they won't do any damage but will provide a clean and low impedance connection for the new breakers.
People are going to be all over your ass for Electrical safety, Telling you just get it done. but I applaud it. That is the type of journeyman I would want teaching me as an apprentice.
😂 I’m sure they will but I don’t really care for a second. The first time a panel blows up in their face they’ll start following safety protocols. Thanks for the comment Jonathan. Good to hear from you!
@@landerselectricI started back in 1970 before OSHA, mandatory PPE & safety rules. After I plugged in a old 480 volt twist lock plug with non dead front. ( Came with a flimsy piece of cardboard or plastic that always fell off. Any way I did not see that a few strands came off of the screw. Small flash that burnt all the hair off my knuckles - partially up my arm. Had to pick.out small pieces of copper out of my skin. After that always wore safety glasses and replaced over 30 of these dangerous plugs. The 120 volt non dead front male plugs were outlawed around 1971 but scum bag lying cheating communist china still made them for next 20 years. Only flee markets and some fly by night hardware stores sold them.
Hopefully we can sue Amazon for selling illegal-to-install electrical products. They are the pipeline for this junk.
Good to see a solid connection from the panel to the outlet. I've seen people post pics saying...what is this box it's smoking and melted... And found out their electrician put a disconnect on the line for whatever reason like for a heat pump or pool motor.
Not good for sure!
To do this job (or to hire someone to do it) I learned many thing from your clips. Thank you alot. You're a very good electrician!
I appreciate you watching! Glad it was helpful.
Thank you for emphasizing the NEMA 14-50R receptacle needing to be Industrial Grade for Continuous EV charging...Glad there are still competent Electricians out there, Subscribed! That knockout tool is awesome as well, did not know they existed, I had the same issue looking for a box with the correct size to fit the Hubbell 14-50R.
You’re welcome! Hope it helped!
That live dead live test is a good idea. A meter malfunction could lead to a big mess if you didn't check it's operation first
You are absolutely right! Always test your tools!
One of the best installs on RUclips
Appreciate you!
Beautiful work man! I appreciate all the knowledge ! 🔥👏🏽
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful work, by an electrician who knows his craft and cares that his work will last and will be safe. He made the conduit bend look easy, but I'm here to tell you that the second box offset messes up my 90 every time with that short of a piece of EMT ;)
About EV receptacles -- Lander is spot on choosing a heavy duty cycle receptacle. I don't buy from Amazon though -- too easy to get counterfeit product. Bryant also has a good 14-50 for EV charging.
You taught me something about the unused busbar spots -- thanks for that. I personally would not use a quad for this application out of concern for heat build-up
Appreciate you! Glad you enjoyed the video! And thanks for the tips!
This was good to see. I plan on having a electrician install a EV charge outlet. It's always interesting to watch craft workers doing their thing. This will also let me ask for certain parts.
Absolutely. Make sure you find a good electrician for the EV install. Anyone can install a ceiling fan. You don’t want to mess up an EV though.
Yea because youtube is really reliable
@@landerselectric I'll ask questions of the electricians while he/she is looking around to figure out a price. Your video gives me a standard to expect.
@@landerselectric What's interesting I was reading up some Reddit comments. Some people think it's a waste of money to buy the more expensive Hubbell units. They made the claim if it's a 14-50 Nema unit it's good. I made the comment that they should read the instructions that are on the packages. Those lower price ones at less than $15 may have a warning that it is not intended for use to charge an EV. I never saw any responses yet as it can happen when dealing with others on the internet.
I generally don't trust comments on a forum like Reddit. Anyone can say anything they want and some people are on purposely trying to screw up people.
I have been asked if I know how to install car chargers. I am not an electrician and I would never attempt one but curious what's involved. I enjoyed this very much. I will tell people though to make sure they get a Hubbell. 🙌
Glad you enjoyed. Yes, the hubbell is the one you want. Even better is getting a hardwired charger like this one.
amzn.to/4hmtOms
@@landerselectric Love it. Thx!
Great content! Thank you for confirming that the Hubble 9450A is worth the splurge. Your explanation is consistent and makes for great content. Though I find it troubling that you described a ground rod as a potentially a piece of rebar. I also live in San Diego County, and having upgraded to 200 AMP box, know that a ground rod is more than a piece of rebar, at least per local code. (I will bet this is quite variable per local codes, but a piece of rebar per your suggestion? ) The new ground rod required for my upgraded box is much thicker than the rod which supported the initial 100 AMP service panel. It is a 6 ft rod that took two men to drive into our clay soil and then wire. Since then, our utilities have been placed under ground and solar has been added without question once the grounding was confirmed. With due respect, perhaps a piece of rebar as a ground rod will pass elsewhere, but not likely everywhere.
I appreciate your genuine concern. The rebar that I was referring to is not a ground rod as you said. Most homes built in San Diego have what’s called a ufer ground. This piece of rebar was tied in with the rest of the rebar in the concrete foundation of the building and stubs up through the slab right underneath the electrical panel in the wall. This piece of rebar is usually a 5/8 in diameter piece of rebar. This is the same diameter as the two ground rods you are speaking of. When we do electrical panel upgrades in San Diego, if there is a ufer, a piece of rebar coming out of the slab with an existing ground wire tied to it. You are allowed to tie your new bonding wire to that rebar. If you cannot find that piece of rebar that is coming out of the footing underneath the electrical panel in the wall, you must drive to ground rods outside of the wall, so the inspectors can see them.
Please forgive me as I should’ve been more clear on this in the video
Hope that helps!
Priceless info. Rapid fire, no time wasting. Thank you
You’re welcome!
Thank you. I got blasted on Reddit for well over a year mostly by electricians insisting what you said about receptacles is BS. Finally Leviton has acknowledged it.
HOWEVER: the BEST receptacle for EV charging is NO receptacle; hardwire if at all possible. It safer and cheaper.
Completely agree!! I think hardwiring is way better but sometimes the customer doesn’t want to spend the extra money.
What extra money? Why wouldn’t it be cheaper? Less material involved. And technically, with a receptacle requires a GFI (right?)?
@ Good chargers like the one I recommend below are about $500. The extra neutral, the rv box, and the receptacle are about $120. Labor is the same.
amzn.to/4hmtOms
You make it look so easy fitting those wires in the box. I'll give that a try.
A lot of practice makes almost perfect. Make sure to turn the power off first.
Nicely done, one more thing I would do is a short circuit check between all wires before flipping the breaker.
Good catch. Thanks for the tip!
Great info !!! I've never heard of those types of breakers. Very clean install !!
Glad you found it helpful!
I loved that in wall wire pull conduit sleeve “how to” . Brilliant. I still have open walls in my garage for my welding circuits I’ve ran and maybe I need to upgrade the wire from 8 guage to 6 guage for future proofing. I don’t know if I’ll buy and EV but if I did I’d want to be able to charge it at 60 amps. Thanks for this very concise, great tips and especially the conduit bending. I’ve bent 3/4” for box offsets and boy that stuff is tough on a long run. Got it done though, glad mine was straight runs with just box offsets.
Ya it’s a pretty cool trick. Definitely should upgrade to #6 if you’re gonna charge at 60 amps. And use THHN not romex. Glad you liked the video!
Definitely one of the best videos describing everything you are doing with emphasis on double/tripple/quadruple checking the panel to make sure it’s not live. One thing I would strongly recommend is wearing some safety glasses just make sure your eye sight is properly protected. I know you are a professional and know his already. You are already wearing your vest and I’m sure you have ear protection so wearing eye protection is PARAMOUNT. I can’t tell you how much I hated wearing them but there has been a few times I have gotten close calls. I took that as my sign from the universe or call it whatever you want, but them glasses are now my first PPE I put on, especially when working with metal where you may use a grinder and there’s metal shavings or it may just be a screw that jumps out and may catch your eyes. Don’t mess with your eye sight. It’s better to take the few extra steps to go them from your storage area. Be safe out there. Great job.
Really appreciate the reminder. As I was editing the video I thought why didn’t I have my safety glasses on? I know better than this! Truly thanks for the response and reminder!
It is refreshing to see someone take the time to no do something live. Around here people are suppose to shut off a panel before working in it although I don't think I have see anyone do it until getting yelled at by an inspector.
@ it’s really important
I just subscribed to your channel, and I like how you explain every detail in your videos, please keep sharing your knowledge/experience. Im an apprentice in residential and all your content is very helpful and informative. Thank you so very much sir!
You’re welcome! I’ll keep posting as much as I can. Glad you find it helpful!
The wall fish was in point ... nicely done sir!
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
You are a great teacher. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
You’re welcome! Glad you’ve been finding them helpful!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge, tips and tricks!
You’re welcome!
@landerselectric Do you have any recommendations on how to pick up apprenticeship work? Is there such a thing as a part-time position?
There might be a contractor who is willing to take you on part time. If you’re not in one already I would look into local apprenticeship programs. They can get you work.
Great video and excellent work, but a few corrections. 11:50 each side of the 240v outlet is 120v to ground, just like the outlets in the house but I do like protecting it with the cover anyway because the outlet doesn't have ground fault, only the EVSE itself does. And 2nd, 13:21 the quality of the outlet and how hot it gets cannot do damage to the breaker, impossible. The only reason the breaker gets damaged is either a faulty breaker, undersized, corrosion or most commonly the wire screw wasn't tightened to the proper torque but either would happen because of the current draw of the EV, and not the quality of the outlet. Even if the outlet melted so much the wires shorted, it would just trip the breaker. A common mistake by DIYers is to not torque the breaker to the manufacture's specs on the side of it. It's way more than most people realize. Even my house that was installed my a certified electrician had every single breaker torqued to way less than 1/2 of what the specs are. Also excellent tip on the wire size and type but you might mention length. At 60 amps, 6 awg wire is chewing up about a watt per foot or 55W in the wire itself on a 50ft run even though the insulation can handle it. It looks like your run was short through the wall so it wouldn't matter.
34:46 Having the outlet mounted to the faceplate to torque the screws is crucial. It's really hard to hold the outlet and torque it.
And I love you re-torque all the breakers, that's super quality work there!
Thanks for the corrections. Really good points! Appreciate the input!
These are helpful
Glad they were!
Just sub’d:) Looking to be an electrician and I enjoy your super clean work. We can tell you value craftsmanship which I’m sure the costumers love.
Glad you liked it. Hope it was helpful!
Very informative, thanks for sharing all that knowledge!!
You’re welcome! Hope it was helpful!
Outstanding video tutorial! Impressive, For sure. Thank you!
Appreciate it! Glad you found it helpful!
great job explaining all the steps.....
Appreciate it!
Great video with explanation and tips.
@@JP-zk7ye Glad you liked it. Hope it helped!
Job done the right way.Great explanation. Thumbs up.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
I love all the detail you explained
Glad you like it! Hope it helped!
You do a great job teaching. You don't babble about things that don't make a difference...but you include all the helpful bits. The single thing I didn't like is the quad breakers. I hate them...and customers don't understand them when you explain them...or years later. If you have unused lugs that sat with no breaker for years...clean it up and use regular breakers. Lastly...why didn't this install require an afci/gfi breaker?
Appreciate the feedback! I try to keep it concise and focused on the important details. I hear you on the quad breakers. I actually went back and replaced them and moved the other breakers around so they would fit in nicely. And as far as GFCI, we’re still on the 2017 code cycle. We’re not required yet to install GFCI. Inspector passed this one no problem.
With regard to the GFI, my understanding is they have been extremely problematic because they accidentally trip. The reason being is that most EVSE/chargers have already knew built-in, and the manufacturers recommend not adding one.
Very nice work Bro!!!
Appreciate it!
The absolute best ev charger plug install I have seen. Great points not covered in other videos. You used black 6g for all current carrying conductors but recoded one to white and another to red. I thought NEC did not allow recoding on 6g and smaller, only on 4g and larger.
To enlarge the hole what are your thoughts on using a oops arbor with a hole saw the size of the existing and the larget size hole saw
Glad you liked it. For the ungrounded conductors there’s no issue phasing but technically you are correct on the neutral. Should have bought white wire or striped it with 3 white stripes continuous along the entire length of the wire. Good catch!
You can color any size wire you want..
More grossed out by the exposed conduit...
The breaker should be gfci no???
Yes it should according to current NEC.@@coreyfranco7060
I know enough about electrical to be dangerous This was very clear and informative .
Thanks for the comment, hopefully I helped to clear up some of the confusion.
Thank you! Very clean and professional installation. I’m curious, how much would an installation like this cost in Charlotte, NC
You’re welcome! I have a friend who lives in Charlotte. He said prices are comparable to Southern California. Down here I charge 1000 bucks. He might be able to find it a little bit cheaper than that.
When you use quads does that overcharged the buzz line
Great content! You know what you're doing and explain it well. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
ABSOLUTELY A FANTASTIC AND METICULOUS INSTALLATION! A+ install. One thing I would also point out, which you probably just do but non-electricians might not be aware of, is to make sure all strands get inserted under the clamp connection and to make sure none of the wire insulation gets under the clamp connection too (if you don't cut enough off). Using an outdoor cover even in the garage makes a lot of sense for safety too ... however, no child will get a 240V blast though ... 120V could happen, but 240V nope! 🤣 Think about it ... Best wishes. Oh, and one last safety issue, perhaps put a sticker on the cover to turn off the breaker before plugging or unplugging the EV mobile connector??? Just a thought as people grab the plugs on both sides of it and the large hot prongs are on both sides of it too....zap....now that WILL give you a 240V blast!
Thanks for the comment, but I completely disagree that a child could not get hit 240 volt. Thinking about it, as you said, a child can easily have two pennies in their hand and try and slide the pennies into both sides at the same time. Or they grab a coat hanger or 2 screwdrivers and stick them in. Or the plug isn’t all the way in and they reach their hand up and get put up. I appreciate your comment as it helps me to further clarify the dangers of 240 volt and why we as electricians need to take every extra safety precaution to protect our customers and their families.
@@landerselectric A child's small hand firmly holding two pennies and able to simultaneously insert them far enough in a 14-50 receptacle is so extremely unlikely that I would be that has never happened in the history of the world to create a 240. Screwdrivers are usually insulated at the handle so pretty unlikely too. A coat hanger is a possibility unless it is plastic. The plugging and unplugging with exposed prongs is the more likely scenario which I why turning off the breaker when plugging in or out is a good idea for every age. Keep up the great work.
@ Thanks for the comment!
Great representation. Thanks
You’re welcome!
Grounding bushing for the concentric opening?
Yo! I remember working with you at Crime Lab glad to see you doing your own thing🤘🏽
What’s up, man! In all of the 14 years that I worked for contractors, that was literally my favorite job. Hope you’re doing well!
When I rebuilt my 8 AWG AL dryer circuit I was having a difficult time with the strands in the wire. When I am tightening stranded wire I always have to wiggle the wires in place and then tighten back into torque specs about 4-5 times to set the strands, since the strands can losen over time.
I always make sure to do that too, that’s super important!
Excellent instruction!
Appreciate it!
Great explanations. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful.
Great video. But, this is not code compliant for 2020 onward since you need GFCI to protect that outlet. The issue there is that GFCI may also nuisance trip an EV charger (which also has an internal GFCI). In any case, the right way to do this install (in my mind) is to hardwire the charger. That means you save on not needing to run a neutral, not needing a $100+ of outlet BOM, and not needing a $100 GFCI - plus it’s inherently safer and you can charge at 11.5 kW and not 9.6 kW. This job would have been less work and safer if gone that route.
We need to start educating the general public that the NEMA 14-50 plug isn’t the right solution for EVs.
Good points! I’ll keep that in mind for the next video
Awesome work and video presentation, just subscribed
Appreciate that, glad you found it helpful.
Does modifying the box not void code due to modifying it?
Yeah, sometimes I encounter those cheap 14-50 receptacles, I reduce the charge current on the charger in half to de-rate it for safety. Most people won't do that and just run it at the full 40 or 50 amps. It's a weird world where one has to look closely at the receptacle to figure out if a fire will start.
Completely agree.
That 50A receptacle is supposed to be gfci protected as of 2020 nec right?
I believe that is correct. In my jurisdiction, we are still on the 2017.
You are in clark county?
You just showed the general public a non code compliance installation. Review the requirements for GFCI installed in a garage 240 volt. This is specifically addressed in the N.E.C.
We’re still on the 2017 code cycle. Not required for us yet. Passed city inspection on this one with no problems.
@@landerselectric I would recommend hard wire installation. This eliminates the possibility of an electrical shock. I know that customers like the idea of having the EV charger as portable. But I also know that if I install an electrical component and didn’t make it the safest I possibly can . The guilt I would fill if someone was injured and I had the knowledge to prevent it . Not sure if I could fill good about getting paid for that.
Great Video!
Thanks!
That was excellent. Great job.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the encouragement!
The electricians who installed my EV charger only used the two hots and a ground. My charger works at full capacity. Can you explain the advantage of also connecting the neutral?
You only need a neutral for the receptacle install. I actually prefer the hardwired application. Less connections to go bad.
awesome job!
Hey thanks!
Excellent video.
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Is your installation per NEC code 625.54?
Nice informative video. A few points from my 40 plus years as a journeyman, master and contractor.
I always avoided quad breakers, they are very expensive and most panels are really not approved for them, you are doubling the load at the stab connection so why do you want that on a continuous load? You could of just come out the back of panel, L B straight into outlet box and eliminated the extra fishing and conduit ,it would have been a neater job in my opinion. I was pleased to see use use THHN Al the way from panel to outlet and use the APPROVED and rated device, many installers are not aware of this spec. Also I would have moved single pole breakers from top of panel to bottom to make way for new double pole breakers.
Really good feedback! Right after I installed the quad breaker, I went back two days later and moved the other loads down so that I could put in regular two pole breakers. Completely agree with you. As far as the LB, what you don’t see in the video is there was actually two EV chargers installed as well as two other 240 V receptacles for other equipment in the garage. I LB’d out of the back for those ones.
Great teaching video, thank you for making this, lots of little tips and tricks to follow. I missed the links for the quad breakers. Where can you find and what brand do you recommend? The insight for the Hubble receptacle was very helpful.
You’re welcome! As far as breaker, you need to use whatever breaker is required for your panel. If you want to upgrade, I’d use Square D, Siemens, then Eaton. In that order.
@landerselectric Thanks got it on the breaker in panel. For the receptacle I was thinking about the same safety issue. Could you also install a breaker shut off at the plug similar to what is done for an AC unit at the outside coil? This way it is safe when not in use but haven't seen a plug / disconnect in one box. Thoughts?
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
He’s correct. The plug that comes with box was shit. The Tesla cord would keep faulting because of high temp. Replaced with levitron EV plug and works great now.
Completely agree!!
Well done
Thanks!
Fuking awesome, great vid . I used awg 4 xhhw. Ultimate install. Just remember that using the tandem mini puts a lot of heat for the 3 hour or more continuous usage that nec defines continuous as. As the regular full size breaker can handle more heat. I also put nolox on the bus terminals to make sure connection is cool and no resistance as it’s an outdoor panel. And lastly, I leave a spare breaker in the panel cuz eventually the breaker will need to be replaced in 4 years. Thanks again. U rock.
Those are all really good points! Thanks! After filming this I was told by my vendor that Eaton is now recommending the BR250H. H for high magnetic. Wish I could’ve put that in the video. Only installing those breakers for Eaton now cause they keep melting! My vendor had 38 melted normal BR breakers in his office when I went in last week.
@@landerselectric see. I know stuff as well. U keep kicking ass
Aluminum is not something to brag about using….
Umm what are you talking about??
🎉🎉 outstanding video, keep them coming!!!!
Glad you like them!
Very informative.
Glad you liked it. Hope it was helpful!
👍✔Great Job!! Thanks for the good info and tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Great informative video, covering basic tools to pipe bending and using a KO set. As you said , its best to have a licensed Electrician doing this type of work.
I have noticed on submittals for the upcoming 2026 NEC the requirement of GFCI for both Hardwired and Receptacle ESVE outlets leading me to believe a push for New GFCI products including ESVE charger receptacles or the chargers being built with GFCI protection. It definitely looks like things will be getting even more expensive these upcoming years with so much technology going into homes.
Glad it was helpful! I thought most EV’s already have GFCI protection inside the cars. Ive been wondering how this is going to affect the functionality considering you can’t have a GFCI downstream from another. Maybe you could expand on this a bit more? Have you come across issues with this?
@ I believe ultimately it will fall under the AHJ and the county building requirements. The goal in mind for the NEC is the safety of people, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they want AFCI included for home charger installs as well.
How much did this install run the homeowner. At least the EV charger component of it?
how much would this cost? including permits?
The average install with permits is about $1500 in my area.
Great video thank you
You’re welcome!
Great video. Do you recommend 6 THHN wire for a hard wire install for a 60amp breaker with a 48amp setting charger? Thanks. I was planning to go from the panel to junction box and then wire the charger into the junction box. What’s best to use to connect the wires in the junction box? Thanks
Yes. That’s exactly what I recommend. I really don’t like to splice EV chargers. One extra point of failure. Is there no way to pull straight through the junction box?
@ I was thinking it might easier to connect a new charger in the future vs running wires to the panel again. But the more read and watch that doesn’t make sense. Plus, I am going to install an NACS charger vs a J1772. The standard is NACS and all cars in the USA will eventually come with it vs J1772. I can use an adapter for my J1772 car now and then I’m all set for a different car with NACS in the future.
@@bradgregory3424 The standard here in the US is the J1772 unless you drive a Tesla or a few other cars. I’d be interested to see when they will change it considering the standard right now is the J1772. Hope it works out!
Excellent.
Great video! Do you recommend hardwired over plug installation on Level 2 chargers?
Hardwired for sure. Here’s my website. Scroll down a little bit and you’ll see the one I recommend.
www.landerselectric.net/electric-vehicle-charger-installer
Can't say I've ever seen tradesman use a torque wrench. Interesting. Is that the only panel on the house? Is it 200 amp? I've seen people saying EV's usually require a 200 amp panel. I have a 150 and gas heat, dryer and stove so i think it should be fine. Nice work btw.
Thanks Matt. Gotta torque everything. And yes it’s a 200/225. 200 amp breaker with a 225 rated bussing. It’s what we call solar ready.
Is the conduit inside the wall required?
If you run THHN it is. With romex it’s not.
What kind of gloves do you buy
Maxi Flex. Home Depot in my area sells them now or you can get them from uline.
My tesla wall charger i installed did not recommend using a neutral 🤔
Yeah, the hardwired chargers don’t require a neutral.
@landerselectric thanks for the quick reply I was curious the reasoning
Don't think I've ever seen a circuit breaker with meter integrated into the same box. Most homes in Oklahoma have separate breaker boxes that are inside the home either in the garage or utility closet. I had a NEMA 14-50 outlet put in a few years ago. I bought a 'heavy duty' plug from Lowe's for the electrician to use. I need to change the plug for a Hubbel or Bryant unit. I normally charge my EV at only 16 amps, so I'm not putting much through the wires/plug.
Ya here they’re all installed outside. The Hubbell receptacle is nice and Leviton has one too. If you can though I’d switch to a hardwired. Less points of failure. I linked to my favorite one in the video and in the description.
Great video. Why didn't you go through the knockout in the back of the panel and just go straight through to your box with a short piece of conduit? No need for LB or extra conduit.
Good catch. We actually added (3) EV chargers and (2) 240v receptacles on this project. I did come out of the back but With other circuits. This is the harder install so I wanted to cover this way of going into the panel in case someone needs to use this method.
Thanks Stephan! I also live in north county San Diego, best place to live!
The Pro. 🏆🏆🏆
Glad you liked it. Hope it helped!