Great video Saige 😀. Get a top quality head gasket and be careful when cleaning the top of your block that you don't damage it. I am surprised the machine shop didn't clean the top of the block. Cheers, Steve 👍👍
Yes you’d expect them to “deck” the block or clean it up a bit but if they weren’t asked to or it inspected as OK then maybe not as it’s a small cast iron block that hasn’t been overheated. Worth considering a different machine shop for any more specialised rebuild jobs e.g. piston / rod / crank balancing ?
Congratulations on 1000 subscribers Saige! A big milestone. Keep up the great work. The difference between the valve guides is that the manganese bronze material provides a less friction to the valves and wears much slower even with very little lubrication. However it is harder to install as the guide needs to be reamed after installation to the proper size. The steel ones are easy to install and good to go without reaming. I am personally happy with steel ones as Triumphs don't have valve seals originally which provides sufficient lubrication between the valves and the guides. Your guides had aftermarket seals and manganese bronze guides which is the better option, but more expensive like I said. BTW the guides are another item that you need to take to the machine shop together with the head. We were discussing hardened valve seats for the exhaust valves, which I didn't see in your list. It is not absolutely necessary to use those, but I am recommending them in order to increase the life of the head, as it was designed for leaded fuel but nowadays we use unleaded only. The main and connecting rod bearing sizes were based on your old crankshaft. With this new one you will need different size, hopefully standard, but it needs to be measured. The machine shop can do that for you and tell you what size bearings to order. Some of the items on your list that you might get away without are the rockers and the rocker shaft (I didn't see the shaft on your list). Yours were somewhat worn, but if you want to save some money you can use yours and maybe upgrade them in the future. They are easily accessible with the engine installed in the car. Buying just one connecting rod is OK, but it might be a different weight than the other 3 which is going to disbalance the engine. People go through great efforts to balance the entire bottom end i.e. each assembly of connecting rod, bearings, piston and piston rings needs to be as close as possible in weight to the other 3 assemblies. So you might wanna weigh them and make sure the weight of the new connecting rod is not much different than the other 3. I think that covers everything that I noticed in your video, but I am sure other people will add more to this or even give you a different advice, which might be better than mine. Keep the videos coming, I love them! PS Forgot about the timing chain. I would definitely buy a duplex kit. The single one stretches too fast. Ask me how I know. And it is not two chains it is just a double size that fits over a double row gear. I strongly recommend it. I am actually due for replacing my single row with a double as it stretched to a point where I am afraid to drive the car now
“Reaming” NOT “Rimming” ! Your single timing chain should not have stretched this quickly, must be lower quality than original. The bottom end on a 1500 should definitely be balanced, especially with no overdrive. And an oil cooler is advisable.
Bonjour Elin! :) Factory simplex timing parts do last a long time on the four, unfortunately repro chains made in Farnoland badly stretch after just a few thousand miles... :( As a result cheap repro duplex timing gears & chain will last no better than original simplex fitment.
@@weescotildweescotild6875 yes, as long as suppliers do not care too much about what they sell through their websites and customers (even experienced RUclips restorers) do not check compare or challenge these different parts the market will be expolited, and customers and cars will suffer disappointment. There are many different suppliers of classic spares for Triumph etc. but biggest is not always best even if it seems easier and maybe cheaper.
Thank you Elin! I couldn’t have done it without all your help :) I do remember us discussing the different valve guides but there was so much to take in that day. Weighting the connecting rod to make sure it’s all balanced is a great idea and the timing chain being double makes more sense than there being two chains lol!
Hi Saige, enjoying your journey! The only advice you really need to take notice of is that given by Elin, he really is the main man. I agree with others on the crank, needs some careful checking and at least a good polish. I am 70 now, and have been tinkering with cars for over 50 years, I was a component level electronics engineer for all my working life and still do some repair work. I have never heard of batteries discharging if left on concrete, however the chemicals in concrete are not that kind to anything left on it for long periods, so the block of wood is better. Electrocution from a 12V battery would be a million to one event, but batteries should be respected, paying particular attention to never allowing the terminals or anything connected to them to short out. The current available from a car battery is phenomenal, and can do real damage, fires being easy to start. Car batteries give off hydrogen gas when on charge, so should always be charged in a well ventilated area, a build up of hydrogen is explosive. Good luck with your project, it is so nice to see young people getting involved like you are.
Agree about the clutch components… Do you have an adapter for that filter? You’re going to need one if not because originally these engines were equipped with canister oil filters. You are right to upgrade... Any oil will preserve the cylinder bores. I’m surprised the shop didn’t bake all the old paint off; hopefully they washed it properly after they rebored it. Before you reinstall your pistons the bores must be absolutely (white glove inspection! good thing you can fit your hands in there!) clean or you will damage your rings… Also, put assembly lubricant on your list. Rehabilitating old cars isn’t cheap and it’s an exercise in patience and perseverance. It looks like you have a sound and straight car that will be a joy to drive once you’ve finished it. But be warned, they are never really finished! Good luck!
I really admire your enthusiasm in what you are doing.. Some Information may help 1- Magnesium / Bronze Valve guides are better quality also allow for better lubrication of the valve stems and will last longer .. son not only better quality but also better for your engine. 2 - I understand budget limitations but buying only 1 Connecting Rod may not be a savings since you will need to re-balance all 4 rods as a set to ensure to eliminate vibrations and potentially destroying your rebuild. 3 - If you can find a supplier in the UK you may be better off since there are not tarifs btw UK and Canada ;-)
@@saigesgarage makes me very happy to see your progress and positive attitude. Last week I bought a spitfire 1500 for my 11 year old daughter to restore. It’s a great car for that. We have a machine shop, and bunch of other classics too so she should have a lot more guidance than you had. Well done!
Great to see the motor is coming along! There is allot to rebuilding a engine and do it right the first time is key to having an engine last for years. Keep the video's coming!
Congrats on 1k subscribers... but I'm a little surprised that Elin and Cheftush hasn't given you another shout out yet. I know they got stuff going on, but I love it when you guys promote each other A LITTLE, you know? Maybe they'll give you a hand with part of this engine build in the near future... but seriously, you should have picked up more subscribers from that little collaboration. I don't know what happened. Good progress... thanks for keeping us updated.
These are really great videos, and of course it's awesome to see the younger generations take an interest in mechanics. Regarding the engine block, please make sure the deck surface is straight. By the looks of it, it'll definitely need it. A light skim in any case is a good idea. For the head rebuild, go with manganese (not magnesium) bronze valve guides. They're gentler on the valve stems and tend to hold oil better than cast iron. As for the battery sitting on concrete, don't worry about it. It's a myth that it will discharge. It can't, especially with the modern plastics the cases are made of. There are a lot of articles out there disproving that myth. Anyway, continued good luck on your project! You're doing great!
Re! :) About timing gears: factory original simplex gears are good quality and if wear is limited you can get away with only renewing the chain, as far as you opt for a good quality one (german Iwis brand at Moss). New simplex gears are available separately at Moss or BPNW for ex. Duplex timing gears are essential for 6 cyl cars like TR6 or GT6 as they have much more valve springs to compress, but good quality simplex gears and a "no chinoiserie" chain will do the job for a long time. Last point about Duplex : by using it you can't set the camshaft timing as precisely because the camshaft gear cannot be flipped over anymore. Conrod: You only need one and new is not the preferable option: A good secondhand or a rebuilt rod (Moss do recond. conrods) is perfectly ok. As said in many comments, you will need to weigh each assembled rod (with cap & bolts on) on an accurate kitchen scale. Difference between each other must not exceed 7 Grams. If the difference is greater bring the complete rod to the machine-shop so that he could grind some metal off the cap corners where it is overhanging the rod mating surface in order to get the right weight. Each new piston assembly is coming matched to its respective piston pin. They MUST not be mixed. You will need to weigh each piston assy, as for the rods, and then marry the lightest rod assy with the heaviest piston assy and continue for the others following this condition. About your crankshaft: You need to bring it to the machine shop (again..☺) to measure the bearing surfaces for taper, ovalization and out of spec (the minimum diameter allowed for std size in data). If all is spot on, maybe a polish will suffice to obtain perfect bearing surfaces. If out of spec, the machine-shop will need to grind it one size under (10 thou undersize) on the rods surfaces or the mains or both. You will need to know this final size before ordering all your crankshaft bearings. Ask the machinist to polish the crankshaft rear oil seal surface BUT NOT the very edge where the flywheel fits tight over it ! About the block upper deck: You can clean it yourself with a petrol or white spirit soaked sheet of car bodywork sandpaper wrapped around a thick and totally flat piece of wood at least as long as the block width. Do several passes across the block but don't overdo it. Important areas to be cleaned properly are the small recesses around cylinders. This is where headgasket seals the combustion chamber. These recesses must be perfectly clean & flat so be careful. Using oven cleaner spray over the recesses can help to dissolve carbon deposits before cleaning with a not too sharp blade, be careful not to gouge the recesses. When all work is done on the block, make sure you wash it fully inside out with nylon brushes & white spirit/petrol/paraffin (no water), finishing with all oil galleries using rifle nylon brushes & extension rods, then blow every area/hole with compressed air. Life of your freshly rebuilt engine will mostly depends on this cleaning... When it's clean then you can paint it without going over any machined surfaces. And don't paint the inside of the block! must be left bare. Then cover it to protect it against any dust till assembly. You will need the following new parts: Cylinder head nuts (use only the uprated version! std ones don't hold the torque and strip even new..) A new oil pump Good quality tappets are essential A special MoS2 lubricant for the camshaft lobes surface (not for the camshaft bearing surfaces) for the tappets to camshaft running in (no idle allowed when starting, must start at 2000/2500 revs for about half an hour). You need a set of new conrod bolts Crankshaft thrust washers: better to take a set of each size and adjust on the bench Camshaft gear bolt locking plate A core plug set is cheap & essential. Machine shop can do it for you or ask Dad! (removal is quite easy to do by hitting the inside bottom corner with a strong screwdriver + using pliers to help rotate the plug out. Clean the bore, apply some thin fluid sealeant around bore & plug. Punch new plug in using a slight undersize socket placed in the bottom till outer edge of the plug fits just a tad behind the block housing edge. Make sure you don't scratch the bore on removal) Don't use anything other than a Payen brand head gasket or it will surely fail.... Use a new oil pressure valve uprated spring part TT1229 (it will serve you in case you fit an oil cooler later) An oil cooler kit is strongly recommended on the 1500. Better to fit it when running in is over.. Be sure to order a new water pump thermostat (82° rating) check all cooling system hoses. You will need a new full clutch kit (clutch plate is specific for early USA cars). preferably order a NOS on e bay if you can find one. Be sure the clutch fork is moving correctly, replace fork pivot shaft 129410 and tolerance ring 129412 + 2 small bronze bushes 129358 on the bellhousing. check axial endfloat on the clutch fork cylinder pushrod 109182 replace pushrod & its pin 112516 if endfloat is found here. Renew oilite pilot bush 105143 before refitting flywheel to crank. (drop it in engine oil overnight then wipe it before fitting at the back of the crankshaft). Last but not least check out James Paddock Ltd in Chester UK.. They always have good prices. They sell near complete engine kits for the 1500 including oil pump, timing gears, tappets, piston set, crank bearings, valves, springs & guides, gaskets for 395 pounds! (part JPR103 4) Good luck for the next stage!😊
Bonjour!! Wow I really appreciate the time you put in to helping me! There is a lot of info for me to go through but I’ll be keeping it all in mind through the next steps of the process!
I just stumbled on your video I would like to follow with your build how ever a couple of things come to mind, first I didn't hear you mention an oil pump, definitely look into that, second I noticed you didn't get the top of the block decked, that's always a good thing to do to make sure it is flat and straight so you don't have head gasket problems in the future there are videos on DIY if you want to try it, third ask your machine shop on valve guides they can recommend the style you can use and lastly depending if you drive in rural area or city you might consider flat top pistons and higher compression, when it comes to pulling out into traffic it has to be a little peppier.
I’ll look into the oil pump and I was considering the flat top pistons so maybe I’ll look into that more too! I’m definitely going to look into getting the block decked as well
Saige awesome video. On the battery thingy...that device is not a battery charger it's a battery tender...it does what a charger does and more. It will not hurt the battery to keep it plugged in for long times as it has circuitry that knows when to turn off etc. Kind of a smart battery charger Sounds like you are now getting to the nitty gritty part of the build. This is the fun and frustrating part. Where you order parts and then you start assembling and find out you need to order more parts. This ends up making FedEx and other carriers very happy as shipping charges really add up. So great idea to order all at once, however I think I would ask Elin about small stuff that you may or may not use but would be nice to have around....like assorted washers, gasket material o-rings etc....these things cost pennies but shipping them sometimes cost more than the item. Local parts stores can carry too so there is that but with a British car and a classic one as well. They might not have in stock and same thing shipping. Also I would order or purchase some assembly lube, plasti-gauge. I think another comment said water pump, belts, hoses etc. Cost really start building up and when on a budget this is very hard and can stop your project. Wish you the best....and finally great use of time to work on other things like cleaning and making the car better, while awaiting parts.
The factory provided cast iron guides and there's no reason they won't work for you just fine. Spend your hard earned money on more important parts. Don't order your rod and main bearings until the crank has been machined so you know for sure what sizes to buy. Good luck with your engine build.
Bonjour Saige! :) One more great video. In my opinion you can get a good budget engine build without spending too much on non vital or unnecessary parts. I'm going to agree with Elin about the rockers & shaft : if wear is light the lot can be reused without any concern for the engine and you'll save a lot of money. (considering the overall inferior quality of the new remade parts that are on the market today...) You only need to make sure the shaft bore & its small outlet holes are perfectly clean. For this you need to remove and replace at least one end plug (at least it's cheap!). About valve springs & lower seat washers: USA cylinder heads, like yours, use 8 single springs and matching thin lower washers. Clearly your head had been rebuilt quite recently, your springs look as new. The question is: Did your engine badly overheated (with temp gauge in the red for some time) right before you got your engine failure ?? If the answer is no, then you can reuse those springs which are fairly new ( + lower seats which don't need to be replaced by new). If the engine did overheat, then keep the lower seats but replace the springs (a set of 8) (parts 157229) You can reuse pushrods (check they roll straight with no wobble on a very flat surface) , ball adjusters, valve split collets and valve spring top collars. (again more saved $$).🤪 About Valves and guides and general head: Inlet side of the cylinder head is not prone to wear as bad as the exhaust side because it runs a lot cooler.. : First thing I will do before buying anything is to bring the cyl. head to the/a machine-shop so that he'd check condition of all the inlet side of the head (inlet valves/seats/inlet guides) and tell you if those parts are good to be reused with a simple valve lapping operation (which is quite cheap..). As I explained in a previous comment, there is dilemma about guide material, valve material & head material. Cast iron head are not well suited for bronze valve guides.. but if the machine-shop tells you the inlet side of the head can be saved & reused as it is, go with it ! Main concern is about the exhaust side: I checked Moss Motors & BPNW sites and both only sell exhaust valves that are labelled as stainless steel valves (214N material).. Cast iron guides are cheap and would be perfectly good to be used with std valves but unfortunately they are not at all suited to stainless steel valves metal wise and galling WILL occur if they are working together.. unless the valve has been specifically treated (in this case it will look dark grey). So if you want to use cast iron guides, you actually need to ask the valve supplier about the material, hoping he is aware of this. Before ordering valves, you also need to check the valve head diameter with a caliper because there are some variations depending on the head type. (1. 1/4 inch 1. 7/16 inch 1. 3/8 inch). To be continued.. (I split the comment😉)
I aee Elin is keeping an eye on your progress and has weighed in already. To correct one minor thing he mentioned... the bronze valve guides need to be "reamed" (not "rimmed"). They are a tad undersized when new and need to be enlarged slightly to fit the valve stems perfectly. This is standard practice, just wanted to be sure you used the right terminology. Lot's of other good advice here. If it were my car I would probably also replace head studs (ARP is a good brand, though not cheap). It would be great if Elin could look at that crank and give his opinion. He mentions reusimg the rockers, rocker shaft (and push rods?) as possible way to save some money. I agree... those parts are easily accessed later if need be, without removing the engine from the car. Pay closer attention to head, valves, valve springs, valve keepers, pistons, connecting rods, bearings (cam, main, xonnecting rod), camshaft, tappets, oil pump, water pump, timing gear and chain (duplex last much longer), etc. Top and vottom hasket sets, assembly lube, seals, freeze plugs, and some other minor $1 million Canadian, eh? Well, now is not the time to cut corners. A rebuild done well will last a long, long time. One done on the cheap will often need redoing far sooner and is false economy! Don't ask me how I know! 😮
I feel bad for you , it'll work out though so don't worry , these cars run forever if they're looked after so it's definitely worth doing . Good luck on your journey all the way from good ole England .
Regarding battery connections - when connecting, always attach the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal. Do the reverse when disconnecting. Otherwise, if the negative terminal is still connected, and the positive terminal is removed, there is a chance of a spark jumping from the positive cable to the positive terminal (as there is still a path to ground/earth). Not only could you get a shock, batteries can give off explosive gases, so sparks are bad! BTW - you should always add a “quick disconnect” to the negative terminal of the battery, and get in the habit of using it whenever the car is not in use.The weak link in most of these old cars is their electrical systems, so isolating the battery is cheap insurance.👍
Hi Saige that crank shaft looks like it needs some work quite a bit of rust and possibly some pitting. I would get it checked out by your machine shop...
use cheap oven cleaner and a wire brush on exterior of block. use anything plastic on the mating surface of the block. you can finish with a fine steel wool...but you don't want to put any gouges on the block mating surface.
You're making progress - congrats!!! When ordering parts, I always check out Rimmer Bros and Canley Classics in the U.K. Often cheaper, even with shipping factored in and normally quicker to Canada than ordering from the U.S..
Hi there, before ordering parts make sure the crankshaft you got will truly polish out at standard, it looks a bit corroded. So either have Elin or the machine shop weigh in. Also for the rear seal area if it is too pitted you can get a speedi sleeve. Agree with others on parts, LBCarco is right in Detroit area and is a moss retailer with discounts. Nice work so far. You can get inspiration from Land Rover Sophie ruclips.net/channel/UCdvxTPG9lIv8FiYfi_GEsuA
With the type of driving you say you are going to be doing you don't need bronze valve guides or a duplex timing chain set. BPNW or spitbits have the individual parts for the timing set. Save the expense and put the money aside for the part you may have forgotten or will need for the next project.
Did the machine shop recommend surfacing the block and head?? (do it if they did) Edit- if your battery turns out to be dead, replace it with an AGM battery. Spits are notorious for leaking batteries rotting the tray. Plastic gauge all the rotational bearing and balance the pistons/rings/rods/caps and keep track of the parts keep them together so they are balanced in set before installing. It's very easy to do and the car will run smoother longer. Good luck, I wish I had kept my 73 in 1985.
@@saigesgarage That was 30 some years ago. I had a couple of TR-7's an MG or three and a billion bugs,.....all gone. My advice . If you get this car where you want it, keep it, just one of them to have. Good luck.
@@saigesgarage I think my favorite one was my 63 Bug, "Herbie" replica that my grandfather and I built. That one was stolen back in 1980, and my other fav was the 76 TR-7 I bought it in 1987 and it was perfect showroom condition. I eventually sold that back to the son of the person I bought it from. He held sentimental value for it and I had to give him a good deal. That car was sooo sweet and clean. My poor $75,...yes $75 Spitfire was a disaster. If you opened both doors at once they wouldn't shut again unless a third person leaned on the trunk. I ended up welding the doors shut and driving it only on sunny days.
Saige, I stopped watching this video halfway through in order to give you some important information. DON'T JUST CONSIDER MOSS! There are no less than 10 different sites that sell Spitfire parts and most of them sell for mush less than Moss. There is Spitsbits to start with and British Northwest (I think) as well as the Triumph Factory and LBC (Little British Cars) just to name a few. Please research all of them in order to get the best price. The only reason to stay completely with Moss is if they are giving you a discount for mentioning them on your site. Otherwise, SHOP AROUND! Two other things real quick......first DON"T MESS WITH DECK OF BLOCK! The machine shop should have checked it to make sure it was level. If it isn't it will need machining to level it, your machine shop should have mentioned that to you already (not a good recommendation for this shop). The crank in all likelihood will at least need to be polished and may still need grinding a reputable machine shop will make recommendations. Lastly, OK 3 things, you need to have the machine shop check you head to make sure you have hardened exhaust valve seats. If not, these seats will need to be installed. Usually, the machine shop has "blank" hardened seats that they can install and grind to the new valves. BTW, nice strength in getting that battery on the block of wood! Good Luck shopping! kd
Hi KD, this is all great to know thank you! I’ll be sure to check out other websites before making any purchases and I’ll look into getting the deck and crank checked
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Great video Saige 😀. Get a top quality head gasket and be careful when cleaning the top of your block that you don't damage it. I am surprised the machine shop didn't clean the top of the block. Cheers, Steve 👍👍
Yes you’d expect them to “deck” the block or clean it up a bit but if they weren’t asked to or it inspected as OK then maybe not as it’s a small cast iron block that hasn’t been overheated.
Worth considering a different machine shop for any more specialised rebuild jobs e.g. piston / rod / crank balancing ?
I’ll do that thank you Steve!
Congratulations on 1000 subscribers Saige! A big milestone. Keep up the great work.
The difference between the valve guides is that the manganese bronze material provides a less friction to the valves and wears much slower even with very little lubrication. However it is harder to install as the guide needs to be reamed after installation to the proper size. The steel ones are easy to install and good to go without reaming. I am personally happy with steel ones as Triumphs don't have valve seals originally which provides sufficient lubrication between the valves and the guides. Your guides had aftermarket seals and manganese bronze guides which is the better option, but more expensive like I said. BTW the guides are another item that you need to take to the machine shop together with the head. We were discussing hardened valve seats for the exhaust valves, which I didn't see in your list. It is not absolutely necessary to use those, but I am recommending them in order to increase the life of the head, as it was designed for leaded fuel but nowadays we use unleaded only.
The main and connecting rod bearing sizes were based on your old crankshaft. With this new one you will need different size, hopefully standard, but it needs to be measured. The machine shop can do that for you and tell you what size bearings to order.
Some of the items on your list that you might get away without are the rockers and the rocker shaft (I didn't see the shaft on your list). Yours were somewhat worn, but if you want to save some money you can use yours and maybe upgrade them in the future. They are easily accessible with the engine installed in the car.
Buying just one connecting rod is OK, but it might be a different weight than the other 3 which is going to disbalance the engine. People go through great efforts to balance the entire bottom end i.e. each assembly of connecting rod, bearings, piston and piston rings needs to be as close as possible in weight to the other 3 assemblies. So you might wanna weigh them and make sure the weight of the new connecting rod is not much different than the other 3.
I think that covers everything that I noticed in your video, but I am sure other people will add more to this or even give you a different advice, which might be better than mine.
Keep the videos coming, I love them!
PS Forgot about the timing chain. I would definitely buy a duplex kit. The single one stretches too fast. Ask me how I know. And it is not two chains it is just a double size that fits over a double row gear. I strongly recommend it. I am actually due for replacing my single row with a double as it stretched to a point where I am afraid to drive the car now
“Reaming” NOT “Rimming” !
Your single timing chain should not have stretched this quickly, must be lower quality than original.
The bottom end on a 1500 should definitely be balanced, especially with no overdrive. And an oil cooler is advisable.
Thanks John!
Bonjour Elin! :) Factory simplex timing parts do last a long time on the four, unfortunately repro chains made in Farnoland badly stretch after just a few thousand miles... :( As a result cheap repro duplex timing gears & chain will last no better than original simplex fitment.
@@weescotildweescotild6875 yes, as long as suppliers do not care too much about what they sell through their websites and customers (even experienced RUclips restorers) do not check compare or challenge these different parts the market will be expolited, and customers and cars will suffer disappointment.
There are many different suppliers of classic spares for Triumph etc. but biggest is not always best even if it seems easier and maybe cheaper.
Thank you Elin! I couldn’t have done it without all your help :) I do remember us discussing the different valve guides but there was so much to take in that day. Weighting the connecting rod to make sure it’s all balanced is a great idea and the timing chain being double makes more sense than there being two chains lol!
It's so refreshing watching you do this. You would put a lot of lads to shame. Keep going, you're doing great.
Aw thank you!
Hi Saige, enjoying your journey! The only advice you really need to take notice of is that given by Elin, he really is the main man. I agree with others on the crank, needs some careful checking and at least a good polish. I am 70 now, and have been tinkering with cars for over 50 years, I was a component level electronics engineer for all my working life and still do some repair work. I have never heard of batteries discharging if left on concrete, however the chemicals in concrete are not that kind to anything left on it for long periods, so the block of wood is better. Electrocution from a 12V battery would be a million to one event, but batteries should be respected, paying particular attention to never allowing the terminals or anything connected to them to short out. The current available from a car battery is phenomenal, and can do real damage, fires being easy to start. Car batteries give off hydrogen gas when on charge, so should always be charged in a well ventilated area, a build up of hydrogen is explosive. Good luck with your project, it is so nice to see young people getting involved like you are.
Hi Bob! Thanks for letting me know, it’s always good to put safety first :)
Sarge you are doing a great job with your spitfire.
Thank you Jim :)
Agree about the clutch components…
Do you have an adapter for that filter? You’re going to need one if not because originally these engines were equipped with canister oil filters. You are right to upgrade...
Any oil will preserve the cylinder bores. I’m surprised the shop didn’t bake all the old paint off; hopefully they washed it properly after they rebored it. Before you reinstall your pistons the bores must be absolutely (white glove inspection! good thing you can fit your hands in there!) clean or you will damage your rings…
Also, put assembly lubricant on your list.
Rehabilitating old cars isn’t cheap and it’s an exercise in patience and perseverance. It looks like you have a sound and straight car that will be a joy to drive once you’ve finished it. But be warned, they are never really finished! Good luck!
I’ll check and see about the adapter for the filter and I’ll make sure to check the bores before I put in the pistons, thanks!
I really admire your enthusiasm in what you are doing.. Some Information may help
1- Magnesium / Bronze Valve guides are better quality also allow for better lubrication of the valve stems and will last longer .. son not only better quality but also better for your engine.
2 - I understand budget limitations but buying only 1 Connecting Rod may not be a savings since you will need to re-balance all 4 rods as a set to ensure to eliminate vibrations and potentially destroying your rebuild.
3 - If you can find a supplier in the UK you may be better off since there are not tarifs btw UK and Canada ;-)
Hi Joe! I totally get what you’re saying about the connecting rods and appreciate the tips!
its manganese bronze - not magnesium!
@@odl21 whoops thanks!
@@saigesgarage makes me very happy to see your progress and positive attitude. Last week I bought a spitfire 1500 for my 11 year old daughter to restore. It’s a great car for that. We have a machine shop, and bunch of other classics too so she should have a lot more guidance than you had. Well done!
@@odl21 wow I love that!
gah - i hope you take that 'new' crank to the machine shop for polishing (maybe even grinding!). the journals should all be mirror finish.
I definitely will before it gets used!
I use white lithuim or penatrating lube for the cylinders, WD40 can tend to dry out.
That’s good to know thank you!
Great to see the motor is coming along! There is allot to rebuilding a engine and do it right the first time is key to having an engine last for years. Keep the video's coming!
Thank you! Fingers crossed I can figure this all out!
Elin usually replaces the Core Plugs for the block during a rebuild. Moss sells a Core Plug Set, not expensive.
I’ll look into it, thanks!
Congrats on 1k subscribers... but I'm a little surprised that Elin and Cheftush hasn't given you another shout out yet. I know they got stuff going on, but I love it when you guys promote each other A LITTLE, you know? Maybe they'll give you a hand with part of this engine build in the near future... but seriously, you should have picked up more subscribers from that little collaboration. I don't know what happened. Good progress... thanks for keeping us updated.
I’m super thankful for all both of them have done for me, and we’re all looking forward to more collabs in the future! Keep an eye out :)
These are really great videos, and of course it's awesome to see the younger generations take an interest in mechanics.
Regarding the engine block, please make sure the deck surface is straight. By the looks of it, it'll definitely need it. A light skim in any case is a good idea. For the head rebuild, go with manganese (not magnesium) bronze valve guides. They're gentler on the valve stems and tend to hold oil better than cast iron.
As for the battery sitting on concrete, don't worry about it. It's a myth that it will discharge. It can't, especially with the modern plastics the cases are made of. There are a lot of articles out there disproving that myth.
Anyway, continued good luck on your project! You're doing great!
I’ll have the deck checked out and look into getting the manganese bronze valve guides thanks!
Add a water pump, clutch plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder to the list
Rod and crank bearings too
Will do thank you!
Re! :) About timing gears: factory original simplex gears are good quality and if wear is limited you can get away with only renewing the chain, as far as you opt for a good quality one (german Iwis brand at Moss).
New simplex gears are available separately at Moss or BPNW for ex.
Duplex timing gears are essential for 6 cyl cars like TR6 or GT6 as they have much more valve springs to compress, but good quality simplex gears and a "no chinoiserie" chain will do the job for a long time.
Last point about Duplex : by using it you can't set the camshaft timing as precisely because the camshaft gear cannot be flipped over anymore.
Conrod: You only need one and new is not the preferable option: A good secondhand or a rebuilt rod (Moss do recond. conrods) is perfectly ok.
As said in many comments, you will need to weigh each assembled rod (with cap & bolts on) on an accurate kitchen scale. Difference between each other must not exceed 7 Grams.
If the difference is greater bring the complete rod to the machine-shop so that he could grind some metal off the cap corners where it is overhanging the rod mating surface in order to get the right weight.
Each new piston assembly is coming matched to its respective piston pin. They MUST not be mixed.
You will need to weigh each piston assy, as for the rods, and then marry the lightest rod assy with the heaviest piston assy and continue for the others following this condition.
About your crankshaft: You need to bring it to the machine shop (again..☺) to measure the bearing surfaces for taper, ovalization and out of spec (the minimum diameter allowed for std size in data). If all is spot on, maybe a polish will suffice to obtain perfect bearing surfaces.
If out of spec, the machine-shop will need to grind it one size under (10 thou undersize) on the rods surfaces or the mains or both.
You will need to know this final size before ordering all your crankshaft bearings.
Ask the machinist to polish the crankshaft rear oil seal surface BUT NOT the very edge where the flywheel fits tight over it !
About the block upper deck: You can clean it yourself with a petrol or white spirit soaked sheet of car bodywork sandpaper wrapped around a thick and totally flat piece of wood at least as long as the block width. Do several passes across the block but don't overdo it.
Important areas to be cleaned properly are the small recesses around cylinders. This is where headgasket seals the combustion chamber. These recesses must be perfectly clean & flat so be careful. Using oven cleaner spray over the recesses can help to dissolve carbon deposits before cleaning with a not too sharp blade, be careful not to gouge the recesses.
When all work is done on the block, make sure you wash it fully inside out with nylon brushes & white spirit/petrol/paraffin (no water), finishing with all oil galleries using rifle nylon brushes & extension rods, then blow every area/hole with compressed air. Life of your freshly rebuilt engine will mostly depends on this cleaning... When it's clean then you can paint it without going over any machined surfaces. And don't paint the inside of the block! must be left bare.
Then cover it to protect it against any dust till assembly.
You will need the following new parts:
Cylinder head nuts (use only the uprated version! std ones don't hold the torque and strip even new..)
A new oil pump
Good quality tappets are essential
A special MoS2 lubricant for the camshaft lobes surface (not for the camshaft bearing surfaces) for the tappets to camshaft running in (no idle allowed when starting, must start at 2000/2500 revs for about half an hour).
You need a set of new conrod bolts
Crankshaft thrust washers: better to take a set of each size and adjust on the bench
Camshaft gear bolt locking plate
A core plug set is cheap & essential. Machine shop can do it for you or ask Dad! (removal is quite easy to do by hitting the inside bottom corner with a strong screwdriver + using pliers to help rotate the plug out. Clean the bore, apply some thin fluid sealeant around bore & plug. Punch new plug in using a slight undersize socket placed in the bottom till outer edge of the plug fits just a tad behind the block housing edge. Make sure you don't scratch the bore on removal)
Don't use anything other than a Payen brand head gasket or it will surely fail....
Use a new oil pressure valve uprated spring part TT1229 (it will serve you in case you fit an oil cooler later)
An oil cooler kit is strongly recommended on the 1500. Better to fit it when running in is over..
Be sure to order a new water pump thermostat (82° rating) check all cooling system hoses.
You will need a new full clutch kit (clutch plate is specific for early USA cars). preferably order a NOS on e bay if you can find one.
Be sure the clutch fork is moving correctly, replace fork pivot shaft 129410 and tolerance ring 129412 + 2 small bronze bushes 129358 on the bellhousing. check axial endfloat on the clutch fork cylinder pushrod 109182 replace pushrod & its pin 112516 if endfloat is found here.
Renew oilite pilot bush 105143 before refitting flywheel to crank. (drop it in engine oil overnight then wipe it before fitting at the back of the crankshaft).
Last but not least check out James Paddock Ltd in Chester UK.. They always have good prices. They sell near complete engine kits for the 1500 including oil pump, timing gears, tappets, piston set, crank bearings, valves, springs & guides, gaskets for 395 pounds! (part JPR103 4)
Good luck for the next stage!😊
Bonjour!! Wow I really appreciate the time you put in to helping me! There is a lot of info for me to go through but I’ll be keeping it all in mind through the next steps of the process!
I just stumbled on your video I would like to follow with your build how ever a couple of things come to mind, first I didn't hear you mention an oil pump, definitely look into that, second I noticed you didn't get the top of the block decked, that's always a good thing to do to make sure it is flat and straight so you don't have head gasket problems in the future there are videos on DIY if you want to try it, third ask your machine shop on valve guides they can recommend the style you can use and lastly depending if you drive in rural area or city you might consider flat top pistons and higher compression, when it comes to pulling out into traffic it has to be a little peppier.
I’ll look into the oil pump and I was considering the flat top pistons so maybe I’ll look into that more too! I’m definitely going to look into getting the block decked as well
You don't need to use WD40 in the bores. Any oil wiped all over the bores will protect them.
That’s good to know thanks!
❤❤
Saige awesome video. On the battery thingy...that device is not a battery charger it's a battery tender...it does what a charger does and more. It will not hurt the battery to keep it plugged in for long times as it has circuitry that knows when to turn off etc. Kind of a smart battery charger
Sounds like you are now getting to the nitty gritty part of the build. This is the fun and frustrating part. Where you order parts and then you start assembling and find out you need to order more parts. This ends up making FedEx and other carriers very happy as shipping charges really add up. So great idea to order all at once, however I think I would ask Elin about small stuff that you may or may not use but would be nice to have around....like assorted washers, gasket material o-rings etc....these things cost pennies but shipping them sometimes cost more than the item. Local parts stores can carry too so there is that but with a British car and a classic one as well. They might not have in stock and same thing shipping.
Also I would order or purchase some assembly lube, plasti-gauge. I think another comment said water pump, belts, hoses etc. Cost really start building up and when on a budget this is very hard and can stop your project. Wish you the best....and finally great use of time to work on other things like cleaning and making the car better, while awaiting parts.
I will look into getting all these things thank you!
nice. you can also try peninsula british car parts in oakville. bronte rd and qew.
I’ll look into getting parts from them, thanks Nick!
The factory provided cast iron guides and there's no reason they won't work for you just fine. Spend your hard earned money on more important parts. Don't order your rod and main bearings until the crank has been machined so you know for sure what sizes to buy.
Good luck with your engine build.
Great idea thanks!
Bonjour Saige! :) One more great video. In my opinion you can get a good budget engine build without spending too much on non vital or unnecessary parts.
I'm going to agree with Elin about the rockers & shaft : if wear is light the lot can be reused without any concern for the engine and you'll save a lot of money. (considering the overall inferior quality of the new remade parts that are on the market today...)
You only need to make sure the shaft bore & its small outlet holes are perfectly clean. For this you need to remove and replace at least one end plug (at least it's cheap!).
About valve springs & lower seat washers: USA cylinder heads, like yours, use 8 single springs and matching thin lower washers. Clearly your head had been rebuilt quite recently, your springs look as new.
The question is: Did your engine badly overheated (with temp gauge in the red for some time) right before you got your engine failure ?? If the answer is no, then you can reuse those springs which are fairly new ( + lower seats which don't need to be replaced by new).
If the engine did overheat, then keep the lower seats but replace the springs (a set of 8) (parts 157229)
You can reuse pushrods (check they roll straight with no wobble on a very flat surface) , ball adjusters, valve split collets and valve spring top collars. (again more saved $$).🤪
About Valves and guides and general head: Inlet side of the cylinder head is not prone to wear as bad as the exhaust side because it runs a lot cooler.. : First thing I will do before buying anything is to bring the cyl. head to the/a machine-shop so that he'd check condition of all the inlet side of the head (inlet valves/seats/inlet guides) and tell you if those parts are good to be reused with a simple valve lapping operation (which is quite cheap..).
As I explained in a previous comment, there is dilemma about guide material, valve material & head material. Cast iron head are not well suited for bronze valve guides.. but if the machine-shop tells you the inlet side of the head can be saved & reused as it is, go with it !
Main concern is about the exhaust side: I checked Moss Motors & BPNW sites and both only sell exhaust valves that are labelled as stainless steel valves (214N material)..
Cast iron guides are cheap and would be perfectly good to be used with std valves but unfortunately they are not at all suited to stainless steel valves metal wise and galling WILL occur if they are working together.. unless the valve has been specifically treated (in this case it will look dark grey).
So if you want to use cast iron guides, you actually need to ask the valve supplier about the material, hoping he is aware of this.
Before ordering valves, you also need to check the valve head diameter with a caliper because there are some variations depending on the head type. (1. 1/4 inch 1. 7/16 inch 1. 3/8 inch).
To be continued.. (I split the comment😉)
I aee Elin is keeping an eye on your progress and has weighed in already. To correct one minor thing he mentioned... the bronze valve guides need to be "reamed" (not "rimmed"). They are a tad undersized when new and need to be enlarged slightly to fit the valve stems perfectly. This is standard practice, just wanted to be sure you used the right terminology.
Lot's of other good advice here. If it were my car I would probably also replace head studs (ARP is a good brand, though not cheap).
It would be great if Elin could look at that crank and give his opinion. He mentions reusimg the rockers, rocker shaft (and push rods?) as possible way to save some money. I agree... those parts are easily accessed later if need be, without removing the engine from the car. Pay closer attention to head, valves, valve springs, valve keepers, pistons, connecting rods, bearings (cam, main, xonnecting rod), camshaft, tappets, oil pump, water pump, timing gear and chain (duplex last much longer), etc. Top and vottom hasket sets, assembly lube, seals, freeze plugs, and some other minor
$1 million Canadian, eh? Well, now is not the time to cut corners. A rebuild done well will last a long, long time. One done on the cheap will often need redoing far sooner and is false economy! Don't ask me how I know! 😮
Hi Alan! This is all great info and advice to keep in mind, thanks for letting me know! And you’re absolutely right about not cutting corners :)
I feel bad for you , it'll work out though so don't worry , these cars run forever if they're looked after so it's definitely worth doing . Good luck on your journey all the way from good ole England .
Thank you for the encouragement!
Regarding battery connections - when connecting, always attach the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal. Do the reverse when disconnecting.
Otherwise, if the negative terminal is still connected, and the positive terminal is removed, there is a chance of a spark jumping from the positive cable to the positive terminal (as there is still a path to ground/earth). Not only could you get a shock, batteries can give off explosive gases, so sparks are bad!
BTW - you should always add a “quick disconnect” to the negative terminal of the battery, and get in the habit of using it whenever the car is not in use.The weak link in most of these old cars is their electrical systems, so isolating the battery is cheap insurance.👍
I will keep this in mind for next time thank you!
You should skim the block to start out with a flat surface
Now is the time for this
Ok I’ll look into that thanks!
Hi Saige that crank shaft looks like it needs some work quite a bit of rust and possibly some pitting. I would get it checked out by your machine shop...
I’m definitely going to have it checked out, thanks!
parts for triumphs in canada would be Mario bros in montreal, or victoria british in british columbia.
Good idea is to replace Core Plugs.
Ok got it thanks!
i tihnk you need to order a smaller glove size. those gloves are the best but too big
use cheap oven cleaner and a wire brush on exterior of block. use anything plastic on the mating surface of the block. you can finish with a fine steel wool...but you don't want to put any gouges on the block mating surface.
I’ll do this thank you!
@@saigesgarage let it sit for a few minutes
You're making progress - congrats!!! When ordering parts, I always check out Rimmer Bros and Canley Classics in the U.K. Often cheaper, even with shipping factored in and normally quicker to Canada than ordering from the U.S..
This is great to know thank you!
Hi there, before ordering parts make sure the crankshaft you got will truly polish out at standard, it looks a bit corroded.
So either have Elin or the machine shop weigh in. Also for the rear seal area if it is too pitted you can get a speedi sleeve.
Agree with others on parts, LBCarco is right in Detroit area and is a moss retailer with discounts.
Nice work so far.
You can get inspiration from Land Rover Sophie ruclips.net/channel/UCdvxTPG9lIv8FiYfi_GEsuA
I will have the crank checked and look into the place in Detroit, and that RUclips channel looks like great inspiration thank you!
With the type of driving you say you are going to be doing you don't need bronze valve guides or a duplex timing chain set. BPNW or spitbits have the individual parts for the timing set. Save the expense and put the money aside for the part you may have forgotten or will need for the next project.
I’ll look into getting a single timing chain now that I know they’re still out there, thanks!
Did the machine shop recommend surfacing the block and head?? (do it if they did) Edit- if your battery turns out to be dead, replace it with an AGM battery. Spits are notorious for leaking batteries rotting the tray. Plastic gauge all the rotational bearing and balance the pistons/rings/rods/caps and keep track of the parts keep them together so they are balanced in set before installing. It's very easy to do and the car will run smoother longer. Good luck, I wish I had kept my 73 in 1985.
They said I should lightly clean off the top , and I’ll look into the AGM battery thanks! Sorry to hear about you getting rid of your Spitfire :(
@@saigesgarage That was 30 some years ago. I had a couple of TR-7's an MG or three and a billion bugs,.....all gone. My advice . If you get this car where you want it, keep it, just one of them to have. Good luck.
@@doghouse416 wow I hope to have that many cars in my time! I appreciate the advice :)
@@saigesgarage I think my favorite one was my 63 Bug, "Herbie" replica that my grandfather and I built. That one was stolen back in 1980, and my other fav was the 76 TR-7 I bought it in 1987 and it was perfect showroom condition. I eventually sold that back to the son of the person I bought it from. He held sentimental value for it and I had to give him a good deal. That car was sooo sweet and clean. My poor $75,...yes $75 Spitfire was a disaster. If you opened both doors at once they wouldn't shut again unless a third person leaned on the trunk. I ended up welding the doors shut and driving it only on sunny days.
Get a good Head Gasket if you don't want to do this Job twice. I've changed mine on my Spit two times.
Good idea thanks!
Saige,
I stopped watching this video halfway through in order to give you some important information. DON'T JUST CONSIDER MOSS! There are no less than 10 different sites that sell Spitfire parts and most of them sell for mush less than Moss. There is Spitsbits to start with and British Northwest (I think) as well as the Triumph Factory and LBC (Little British Cars) just to name a few. Please research all of them in order to get the best price. The only reason to stay completely with Moss is if they are giving you a discount for mentioning them on your site. Otherwise, SHOP AROUND! Two other things real quick......first DON"T MESS WITH DECK OF BLOCK! The machine shop should have checked it to make sure it was level. If it isn't it will need machining to level it, your machine shop should have mentioned that to you already (not a good recommendation for this shop). The crank in all likelihood will at least need to be polished and may still need grinding a reputable machine shop will make recommendations. Lastly, OK 3 things, you need to have the machine shop check you head to make sure you have hardened exhaust valve seats. If not, these seats will need to be installed. Usually, the machine shop has "blank" hardened seats that they can install and grind to the new valves. BTW, nice strength in getting that battery on the block of wood! Good Luck shopping! kd
Hi KD, this is all great to know thank you! I’ll be sure to check out other websites before making any purchases and I’ll look into getting the deck and crank checked
btw who is Tracy?!
My aunt! She gave me her old coveralls but I still need to have my own patch made!
better not touch the deck surface. machine shop should have surfaced the deck.
you need 8 rockers not 4.
Got it, thanks!