Saige I just found your channel via Elin’s channel. He’s a great resource for these cars so your lucky to have his help. I’ve gotten to episode 10 so far and wanted to make a comment regarding the fasteners on the timing chain cover. I believe the reason some fasteners are hex bolts and some are slotted screws is to prevent the ones that are screws being over torqued. You mentioned in the video that you might want to replace the screws with more hex bolts. Please discuss this with Elin. I’d hate for you to damage the repaired engine by using incorrect fasteners. BTW - I have a 1965 Triumph TR4A,👍
Another great video Saige well done to you and your Dad. If you look down the hole where the distributor goes where you took out the drive gear at 4.54 you will see the top of the oil pump. This has a slotted drive. Once you have the engine reassembled, if you fill with oil, you can pump oil around the engine without needing to start the engine. I attached a cut off screwdriver end to an electric drill and spun the oil pump anticlockwise. (Must be anticlockwise). Before you attach the new oil filter, you can also pour oil through the bottom hole . This helps to get oil into the pump. Then attach new oil filter, then spin the oil pump.If you do this just before you put the engine back into the car, you can check for leaks! The small plug you took out at the front of the engine is identical to the one at the back. It was the back one that the garage forgot to replace in my engine, hence the oil poured out! Look forward to the next video 😃. Have a wonderful Christmas and a happy 2023. Cheers, Steve in the UK
Bonjour Saige! :), Another great video. Thumbs up on the pedagogic way you explain things. As suggested on the comments, you should check the tappets base for wear with a ruler and in front of a good source of light. Any chips on the contact face means the hard layer is breaking up and calls for replacement of them all. Yes you did it rigth by labelling the tappets: if reused they must return to their specific bore/pushrod. If only lightly worn, they usually can be reground by your machine shop. If the base has worn very concave, they also must be replaced along with the camshaft as its lobes will have worn convex.. If you put new tappets on worn camshaft lobes, contact surface will be thin and so pressure will be extremely high on the parts, going through the oil cushion = very rapid wear. Again, if you need to replace them don't use any cheap tappets "from Farland".. New Old Stock genuine tappets are difficult to find but some good quality ones are around. The camshaft & tappets are like the engine's heart and so deserve particular attention. You can check the cam lobe tips for flatting wear or chipping and compare all lobes height with a vernier caliper. If you need a cam, several options are possible: you can use the EU market 1500 camshaft (part RKC3305) along with a skimmed cylinder head according to the EU compression ratio (9:1) and possibly the shorter EU pushrods + EU flat top pistons.. (all this depending on fuel octane available in your country). You could also use a good quality Newman 260 PH1 camshaft & tappet set (see Newman Camshafts UK). No need to go too far from the std cam profile here... For more info/advice you may talk to people like Ted Schumacher (TSI), a Triumph racing Legend and Elgin Camshafts.. Now what about the chain steel tensioner? is it still there in the timing cover? 🙂 The allen/BTR plug your Dad removed at 9:10 is the main oil pressure gallery end plug. Good luck for the next stage 👍
For the next episode I’ll go through and have a good look at everything including the tappets and the camshaft and decide what to take in. The steel chain tensioner is there but we haven’t looked to see how worn it is yet.
Great job Saige (and Dad) I would suggest to check all the tappets by laying a small straight edge across the bottom (cam end) and checking for any dishing (wear) on them. Replace all if they have any sign of wear.
Those timing gears look worn to me. If you’re going to replace the chain, it’s worth replacing the gears. (I turned my worn out cam gear into a cool coaster!) Beware of poor quality “cheaper” parts; you only want to do this once so get the best that are within your budget. When I rebuilt my TR6 engine recently I left the key and the shim on the crank but mine didn’t need any grinding so it wasn’t necessary. The machine shop might need it to be removed and they can do it. The slotted head screws are for the holes in the engine plated that are not matched with holes in the block so they don’t get over-torqued and stripped if tightened with a wrench. Nice work, have fun!
Saige I just found your channel via Elin’s channel. He’s a great resource for these cars so your lucky to have his help.
I’ve gotten to episode 10 so far and wanted to make a comment regarding the fasteners on the timing chain cover.
I believe the reason some fasteners are hex bolts and some are slotted screws is to prevent the ones that are screws being over torqued. You mentioned in the video that you might want to replace the screws with more hex bolts. Please discuss this with Elin. I’d hate for you to damage the repaired engine by using incorrect fasteners.
BTW - I have a 1965 Triumph TR4A,👍
Ohhh ok that makes sense, thank you for letting me know and I appreciate the support!
Another great video Saige well done to you and your Dad. If you look down the hole where the distributor goes where you took out the drive gear at 4.54 you will see the top of the oil pump. This has a slotted drive. Once you have the engine reassembled, if you fill with oil, you can pump oil around the engine without needing to start the engine. I attached a cut off screwdriver end to an electric drill and spun the oil pump anticlockwise. (Must be anticlockwise). Before you attach the new oil filter, you can also pour oil through the bottom hole . This helps to get oil into the pump. Then attach new oil filter, then spin the oil pump.If you do this just before you put the engine back into the car, you can check for leaks! The small plug you took out at the front of the engine is identical to the one at the back. It was the back one that the garage forgot to replace in my engine, hence the oil poured out! Look forward to the next video 😃. Have a wonderful Christmas and a happy 2023. Cheers, Steve in the UK
Wow thanks! I’m still not 100% if I have the skill to put everything back together but we’ll see!!
Bonjour Saige! :), Another great video. Thumbs up on the pedagogic way you explain things.
As suggested on the comments, you should check the tappets base for wear with a ruler and in front of a good source of light.
Any chips on the contact face means the hard layer is breaking up and calls for replacement of them all.
Yes you did it rigth by labelling the tappets: if reused they must return to their specific bore/pushrod.
If only lightly worn, they usually can be reground by your machine shop.
If the base has worn very concave, they also must be replaced along with the camshaft as its lobes will have worn convex..
If you put new tappets on worn camshaft lobes, contact surface will be thin and so pressure will be extremely high on the parts, going through the oil cushion = very rapid wear.
Again, if you need to replace them don't use any cheap tappets "from Farland"..
New Old Stock genuine tappets are difficult to find but some good quality ones are around.
The camshaft & tappets are like the engine's heart and so deserve particular attention.
You can check the cam lobe tips for flatting wear or chipping and compare all lobes height with a vernier caliper.
If you need a cam, several options are possible: you can use the EU market 1500 camshaft (part RKC3305) along with a skimmed cylinder head according to the EU compression ratio (9:1) and possibly the shorter EU pushrods + EU flat top pistons.. (all this depending on fuel octane available in your country).
You could also use a good quality Newman 260 PH1 camshaft & tappet set (see Newman Camshafts UK).
No need to go too far from the std cam profile here...
For more info/advice you may talk to people like Ted Schumacher (TSI), a Triumph racing Legend and Elgin Camshafts..
Now what about the chain steel tensioner? is it still there in the timing cover? 🙂
The allen/BTR plug your Dad removed at 9:10 is the main oil pressure gallery end plug.
Good luck for the next stage 👍
For the next episode I’ll go through and have a good look at everything including the tappets and the camshaft and decide what to take in. The steel chain tensioner is there but we haven’t looked to see how worn it is yet.
Good work , your coming along pretty well.
Good job!!
Great to see your dad giving advise, and a little help. Keep going.
Wonderful job.
Great job Saige (and Dad) I would suggest to check all the tappets by laying a small straight edge across the bottom (cam end) and checking for any dishing (wear) on them. Replace all if they have any sign of wear.
I’ll do that thanks!
Those timing gears look worn to me. If you’re going to replace the chain, it’s worth replacing the gears. (I turned my worn out cam gear into a cool coaster!) Beware of poor quality “cheaper” parts; you only want to do this once so get the best that are within your budget.
When I rebuilt my TR6 engine recently I left the key and the shim on the crank but mine didn’t need any grinding so it wasn’t necessary. The machine shop might need it to be removed and they can do it.
The slotted head screws are for the holes in the engine plated that are not matched with holes in the block so they don’t get over-torqued and stripped if tightened with a wrench.
Nice work, have fun!
It looks like I will be replacing my timing gears and chain and I love your coaster idea! I’m all for reusing and recycling :)
A screw driver is just for screws it isn't a chisel. x