I am building a custom small house so this was really helpful. Everyone builds these huge homes. It would be nice to see more content that is geared toward one and two bedroom small homes. Less to manage, easier to control and a smaller 'debt' to the site .
Very cool details, I remember seeing older homes with pine boards where an addition was being built, id ask the carpenter about how the boards are in such good shape, usually get a reply about the older growth lumber with tighter rings used to provide good weather/resistance to moisture.
Pardon me if my comment sounds critical. I'm skeptical of some of what I see but I want to say that I hugely respect Steve Baczek and his work. He is showing a very creative and effective solution to a difficult problem. I'm just questioning it in order to point out that this is an extreme which is probably totally inappropriate for most projects except those in the absolute coldest climate zones. R-70 wall? In what climate zones does it really make sense to go to such an extreme? I have my doubts there is much benefit even in IECC Zone 7 beyond about R40. Better to put the difference in cost into other things such as a larger PV array. Also, there's a perception that foam insulations are bad for the environment and fibrous ones are good. That's only partially true. First, the WOOD fiber based insulations are definitely better from an environmental standpoint. But rockwool and other mineral fiber based insulations do NOT fall into that category. The wall Steve is showing here 2:06 has a huge amount of mineral wool in it. "GWP" or "greenhouse warming potential is one measure for comparing environmental impacts of products. Yes, wood fiber fares best. But all foams are not comparable. EPS and GPS are generally better than polyiso and much better than closed cell spray foams and XPS, which usually measures worst. Mineral wool scores almost identically to EPS. So in terms of environmental impact using rockwool is no improvement over using EPS foam. This is something a lot of people aren't aware of. There are a number of online sources for finding more about this subject. If researching this further keep in mind that foam insulation formulas are changing quickly. HFCs have largely been banned and are now being replaced with HFOs, which will help to improve the environmental performance of the newest formulations. So studies from, let's say, 5 years ago, may not be entirely valid anymore. Still, though, even with the new formulations, EPS remains the best among foams, with mineral wool roughly the same. And wood fiber based insulations remain by far the best overall. I'm also concerned about the additional framing material necessary to achieve this thicker wall. That is yet more environmental impact in order to achieve an insulation level that may be totally overkill and not providing enough benefits.
I had similar thoughts. A R77 wall is a waste of building materials. If building to passive house air tightness levels, a wall assembly that has an overall effective R value of 20.5 has a thermal efficiency of 90%. Even in zone 7, it makes more sense to spend your money on upgrading the mechanicals instead of continuing to throw more building materials into the wall assembly.
@@firstdaddy Your comment is only relates to areas that don't get that cold. In parts of Canada it is not unusual to have -40 F. and with a proper air barrier and heat recover air exchange unit plus high insulation levels the overall thermal requirements are low. As a good example there is a video called Energy Efficiency Birken House Monastery 2013. They don't get as cold as where I am but the video is probably one of the best videos on reducing total energy. Mechanicals have a value, but having a 98% heating unit is poor efficiency if you don't look after all the details. Over the life cycle of a home insulation doesn't fail if the vapor barrier is not compromised and double stud allows superior insulation rates in a cold climate.
Before anyone builds a thick wall section like this they should check with their property tax assessor, not just their building inspector. Where I’m from, the building size is assessed based on its outside dimensions. This 800 sq ft building, let’s say 20’x 40’, with this additional 14” insulation detail featured here, would be 22’ 4” x 42’ 4”. That’s now 945 sq ft. For my area, the assessed value for a new structure is somewhere around $400 per sq ft, and with a tax roll rate of 1%, this additional 145 sq ft results in an additional $580 of property tax per year. Really doubt the energy savings would offset the increased taxes. If Steve can get the tax assessor to use the same methodology as that building inspector, and not count the building area cantilevered out from the foundation, then I really look forward to his next design!
You are getting hosed if some assessor thinks that some cellulose and 2 by 4's cost $400.00 with labor to build. It isn't cabinetry work or anything exotic, involved in essentially a larson truss addition to a structure.
Hi Steve, recently you did a video on air and moisture sealing the interior of a window. Your buddy Jake also recently did a video n the same topic, and the you and Matt Risinger did a video on a "One Man Window Install". In that video Matt mentioned that the homeowner was using an air sealing method of yours that was different than his, and I'll bet Jake's method is different than both of yours. Have you ever all gotten together and discussed why you chose different methods and compared them to see which one is the most effective (and cost effective)?
I bought a small house with the plan of renovating it properly, I wish I could find help like you. Everyone I have consulted so far insists things can only be done the same old stupid way they’ve been doing it for decades.
Thanks for the detailed info, nice! One question: details show a diagonal brace on the bottom of the outside wall truss. When the truss is installed @ 15:30 the brace is opposite. What is the reason for that change?
Hmm, after cold-soaking overnight would not the passive footer draw in and condense the increasingly humid outside air? Seems like a race condition with sunlight exposure on the wall face being the determining factor. Plz advise...
May be a dumb question Steve, but how is the load on the passive wall carried. Are the structural screws inserted into the band and floor joists sufficient. Could you cantilever the floor joists all around the exterior for a passive wall
I would have used 15lb roofing felt outside the pine boards to keep the cavity dry and allow lots of drying to the outside. Then you could use skip sheathing and save the almost one half the cost of the pine. This is how my house was built in 1948. Oh, that’s exactly what you did! I finally saw the photo montage.
1/4 pine is cheap. Thats great! Floor trusses are not cheap. Thats bad… maybe a cheaper than floor trusses option would be a real challenge. Maybe 800sf wouldn’t include a cantilever floor?
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I am building a custom small house so this was really helpful. Everyone builds these huge homes. It would be nice to see more content that is geared toward one and two bedroom small homes. Less to manage, easier to control and a smaller 'debt' to the site .
Did you expedite all options? Why did you choose to build not to order some sip kit ?
Would love to see how the window install details on these thick walls. Looks great.
I agree. Also would love to see the wasl to rood transition and the roof itself. Thanks for sharing Steve?
Very cool details, I remember seeing older homes with pine boards where an addition was being built, id ask the carpenter about how the boards are in such good shape, usually get a reply about the older growth lumber with tighter rings used to provide good weather/resistance to moisture.
Pardon me if my comment sounds critical. I'm skeptical of some of what I see but I want to say that I hugely respect Steve Baczek and his work. He is showing a very creative and effective solution to a difficult problem. I'm just questioning it in order to point out that this is an extreme which is probably totally inappropriate for most projects except those in the absolute coldest climate zones.
R-70 wall? In what climate zones does it really make sense to go to such an extreme? I have my doubts there is much benefit even in IECC Zone 7 beyond about R40. Better to put the difference in cost into other things such as a larger PV array.
Also, there's a perception that foam insulations are bad for the environment and fibrous ones are good. That's only partially true. First, the WOOD fiber based insulations are definitely better from an environmental standpoint. But rockwool and other mineral fiber based insulations do NOT fall into that category. The wall Steve is showing here 2:06 has a huge amount of mineral wool in it.
"GWP" or "greenhouse warming potential is one measure for comparing environmental impacts of products. Yes, wood fiber fares best. But all foams are not comparable. EPS and GPS are generally better than polyiso and much better than closed cell spray foams and XPS, which usually measures worst. Mineral wool scores almost identically to EPS. So in terms of environmental impact using rockwool is no improvement over using EPS foam. This is something a lot of people aren't aware of. There are a number of online sources for finding more about this subject. If researching this further keep in mind that foam insulation formulas are changing quickly. HFCs have largely been banned and are now being replaced with HFOs, which will help to improve the environmental performance of the newest formulations. So studies from, let's say, 5 years ago, may not be entirely valid anymore. Still, though, even with the new formulations, EPS remains the best among foams, with mineral wool roughly the same. And wood fiber based insulations remain by far the best overall.
I'm also concerned about the additional framing material necessary to achieve this thicker wall. That is yet more environmental impact in order to achieve an insulation level that may be totally overkill and not providing enough benefits.
I had similar thoughts. A R77 wall is a waste of building materials. If building to passive house air tightness levels, a wall assembly that has an overall effective R value of 20.5 has a thermal efficiency of 90%. Even in zone 7, it makes more sense to spend your money on upgrading the mechanicals instead of continuing to throw more building materials into the wall assembly.
@@firstdaddy Your comment is only relates to areas that don't get that cold. In parts of Canada it is not unusual to have -40 F. and with a proper air barrier and heat recover air exchange unit plus high insulation levels the overall thermal requirements are low. As a good example there is a video called Energy Efficiency Birken House Monastery 2013. They don't get as cold as where I am but the video is probably one of the best videos on reducing total energy. Mechanicals have a value, but having a 98% heating unit is poor efficiency if you don't look after all the details. Over the life cycle of a home insulation doesn't fail if the vapor barrier is not compromised and double stud allows superior insulation rates in a cold climate.
Before anyone builds a thick wall section like this they should check with their property tax assessor, not just their building inspector. Where I’m from, the building size is assessed based on its outside dimensions. This 800 sq ft building, let’s say 20’x 40’, with this additional 14” insulation detail featured here, would be 22’ 4” x 42’ 4”. That’s now 945 sq ft. For my area, the assessed value for a new structure is somewhere around $400 per sq ft, and with a tax roll rate of 1%, this additional 145 sq ft results in an additional $580 of property tax per year. Really doubt the energy savings would offset the increased taxes.
If Steve can get the tax assessor to use the same methodology as that building inspector, and not count the building area cantilevered out from the foundation, then I really look forward to his next design!
You are getting hosed if some assessor thinks that some cellulose and 2 by 4's cost $400.00 with labor to build. It isn't cabinetry work or anything exotic, involved in essentially a larson truss addition to a structure.
Love it #6 N Subscribed!!!
Nice detail!
Dude, you are clever! Mixing the new tech with the old tech.
Would love to see the basic floor plans plan of this small accessory structure.
Very interesting. How were the corners completed?
Would be really interested in the wall to roof connection detail.
Is the cantilever sweater load bearing the roof or is that being done by the traditional wall? How the eaves are handled might be interesting.
Hi Steve, recently you did a video on air and moisture sealing the interior of a window. Your buddy Jake also recently did a video n the same topic, and the you and Matt Risinger did a video on a "One Man Window Install". In that video Matt mentioned that the homeowner was using an air sealing method of yours that was different than his, and I'll bet Jake's method is different than both of yours.
Have you ever all gotten together and discussed why you chose different methods and compared them to see which one is the most effective (and cost effective)?
What type of Insulation was applied in the outer Truss Sweater vertical wall concept ???
On the drawings it shows loose fill rockwool cavity insulation.
I bought a small house with the plan of renovating it properly, I wish I could find help like you. Everyone I have consulted so far insists things can only be done the same old stupid way they’ve been doing it for decades.
Thanks for the detailed info, nice!
One question: details show a diagonal brace on the bottom of the outside wall truss. When the truss is installed @ 15:30 the brace is opposite. What is the reason for that change?
Would really like to know...thanks!
Hmm, after cold-soaking overnight would not the passive footer draw in and condense the increasingly humid outside air? Seems like a race condition with sunlight exposure on the wall face being the determining factor. Plz advise...
Help me understand, wall at R-77 and glass right next to it are R-7 ??
Did you use the same truss method for the roof?
May be a dumb question Steve, but how is the load on the passive wall carried. Are the structural screws inserted into the band and floor joists sufficient. Could you cantilever the floor joists all around the exterior for a passive wall
He said they were screwed into the wall studs at 16" o.c. vertically
What retains insulation in truss cavity? Is there a vapor barrier applied before 1x nailers?
No. Steve said only horizontal boards with gaps between them.
I would have used 15lb roofing felt outside the pine boards to keep the cavity dry and allow lots of drying to the outside. Then you could use skip sheathing and save the almost one half the cost of the pine. This is how my house was built in 1948. Oh, that’s exactly what you did! I finally saw the photo montage.
1/4 pine is cheap. Thats great! Floor trusses are not cheap. Thats bad… maybe a cheaper than floor trusses option would be a real challenge. Maybe 800sf wouldn’t include a cantilever floor?
what a waste of money for what you save. over did what you needed to do for the same value