Love your videos and years of knowledge. Really great that you got to work with Joe for some years. The drawing that you had should not have had the 2x6 detail on the bottom of the header though. It should be the 1/2 plywood. Thank you for all the knowledge you have shared over the years. I have changed the way I build. Grace and Peace Slick
I love your videos. We use post and beam timber frames with 2x12 or 2x10 glulam beams 3.5 inches thick to do the same thing 10 inch thick walls. You don't frame windows and doors in with thermal breaks? Windows and doors with low r values can cause condensation issues. We also spray foam around windows and doors and stud bays next to them.
Love the detailed information. 2 questions. Why did you push the window to the outside edge instead of more in the middle? I was told the middle is best if possible. 2nd, Have ever done any cost comparisons of adding Rockwool on the outside compared to the double wall? What do you think are the advantages of one system over the other? Thanks
Hi Steven. What about vapor barrier.?Can you install it against the 2x 6 wall? So that it doesn’t get punctured when people hang things on the interior of the wall? It will be between the two walls, is that ok? Thanx ,great stuff.👍💪
I love this. What are your thoughts about flashing windows almost like skylights to say. Where instead of bringing the WRB into the window framing and then spray foam acting as a sealer, but to bring the peel and stick WRB onto the face of the window (for extruded windows as well) instead of taping the WRB to the window? Still spray foam for air sealing, and insulation at the window, and a backup waterproofing type thing? I’ve done with extruded windows (especially on Reno not build) for a siding re/re where all windows are already installed. Prime the edge of the window and then peel and stick. As long as it doesn’t pass your siding thickness it’s not seen and gives good continuity for air barrier but also waterproof.
What if you frame the exterior side of the window larger and the interior frame of the window you go with a 2X6 (or different based on the asthetics) and use a flanged window that would mount to the inside framed wall. You could do a trim detail around the exterior frame with a foam product for additional insulation. Just not sure if that would be superior in any way
Steve where are you building this? Would I be able to build this in climate zone 4A or would you be worried about condensation on the back of the sheathing?
I made a comment about the origin of the "Dudley Box". For some reason my comment was deleted. The Dudley Box was named after Dan Dudley according to an article called "Window Installation Tips for a Deep Energy Retrofit". I don't think the box Steven is describing is a Dudley Box. At least that is what I gathered from the article. I think what Steven is talking about is more commonly called a "Window Buck".
Is a 2x4 for inner and outer wall not a good idea? Cost difference mean much or it just better to go with the 2x6 outer and 2x4 inner? I'm in Kentucky for regional concerns. Great content by the way.
Great content as usual Steve. Question. I can see that this is a great wall design. But to my mind, and I have no expertise in this subject, I don’t see the advantage of the double wall over a single frame wall with exterior insulation? Framers would only have to go round one time building one wall and there would be lower lumber costs also. What your thoughts? Interested as just moved from the UK to Calgary, AB and we are considering doing our own build. TIA
I'd guess money and easier detailing at the exterior side of window openings. Cellulose is a LOT less expensive than exterior rigid and I suspect the labor costs of installing exterior insulation vs. a second 2x4 interior wall probably offset. They did not do it in this detail but the vapor barrier could be placed at the interior face of the 2x6 and then the cavity in the double stud wall would act as a service cavity making it easier to run electrical and plumbing (if the cavity were slightly bigger). Another easy mod to this wall would be to add 1/4" to the 2" cavity so that the overall width matches a 2x12, then a 1x12 or 2x12 could be used as the window buck if desired, etc.
If the client asked you to then do what you could to take advantage of the double wall for added strength against wind, what would you suggest? I know you’d want to avoid thermal bridging, but are there gussets, straps, anything, you could add to turn this double wall design into a big structural benefit?
I had the same question. Would something like a double 2x4 wall(offset) with a 2x8 or 2x10 top/bottom plate be, in theory, stronger than a singe 2x6 wall? Asking from the Florida east coast.
@@LogansRun314 :: I’ve looked into this some and what I read (from Green Building Advisor, I believe?) was a single staggered wall was not as strong as a double wall. But, they didn’t get into specifics… they didn’t explain how this was the case given only the outside wall is noted as the load-bearing wall, and they make no mention of tying the 2 walls together in any manner. I did see a drawing where a piece of 1/2” plywood was fastened to the sides of a 2x6 & 2x4, at the lower half of the double wall. But, they didn’t say if at every stud, nor mention the thermal bridging. I wondered if a gusset could be used similarly to better effect, since it’s made for connections and is much thinner material.
@@chadcooper7348 That's surprising, I would have thought the opposite. I'm torn between building a house with CMU(exterior cavity insulation w/air gap then brick) or double wall construction with a single top/bottom plate... I guess we would refer to it as a "single staggered wall" as you mentioned above. The big downside to this method would be the top/bottom plates would not have a thermal break, if opting to not run continuous exterior insulation. Perhaps this is why it's not so popular amongst the double wall crowd? I have seen that 1/2" plywood idea before and thought it was interesting, but didn't see too much of the detail.
I would say the few times I've seen it, yes to your question. The structural walls are built first (outside). The internal (or curtain walls) are then done in a more dried in environment similar to how internal walls are usually completed as secondary order of operations in most framing methods I've worked with. You can build all your partition walls before going up to next story or roof, but often (especially when manual moving of materials), the interior walls get in the way of structural / dry-in process and often temp bracing is used to hold structural walls plumb without interior walls to be part of that bracing scheme. Also, note the internal partition walls will tee into the inner part of double wall system (so all that can be done together).
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 That's great to hear (pun intended). Keep up the good work, don't be surprised if i come a calling someday when i'm ready to start my project.
I really enjoy your series. Very well thought out explanations.
Love your videos and years of knowledge. Really great that you got to work with Joe for some years.
The drawing that you had should not have had the 2x6 detail on the bottom of the header though. It should be the 1/2 plywood.
Thank you for all the knowledge you have shared over the years. I have changed the way I build.
Grace and Peace
Slick
Side befit: Deep window/wall openings are so beautiful.
I love your videos. We use post and beam timber frames with 2x12 or 2x10 glulam beams 3.5 inches thick to do the same thing 10 inch thick walls. You don't frame windows and doors in with thermal breaks? Windows and doors with low r values can cause condensation issues. We also spray foam around windows and doors and stud bays next to them.
Love the detailed information. 2 questions. Why did you push the window to the outside edge instead of more in the middle? I was told the middle is best if possible. 2nd, Have ever done any cost comparisons of adding Rockwool on the outside compared to the double wall? What do you think are the advantages of one system over the other? Thanks
Hi Steven. What about vapor barrier.?Can you install it against the 2x 6 wall? So that it doesn’t get punctured when people hang things on the interior of the wall? It will be between the two walls, is that ok? Thanx ,great stuff.👍💪
I love this. What are your thoughts about flashing windows almost like skylights to say.
Where instead of bringing the WRB into the window framing and then spray foam acting as a sealer, but to bring the peel and stick WRB onto the face of the window (for extruded windows as well) instead of taping the WRB to the window?
Still spray foam for air sealing, and insulation at the window, and a backup waterproofing type thing?
I’ve done with extruded windows (especially on Reno not build) for a siding re/re where all windows are already installed.
Prime the edge of the window and then peel and stick. As long as it doesn’t pass your siding thickness it’s not seen and gives good continuity for air barrier but also waterproof.
What if you frame the exterior side of the window larger and the interior frame of the window you go with a 2X6 (or different based on the asthetics) and use a flanged window that would mount to the inside framed wall. You could do a trim detail around the exterior frame with a foam product for additional insulation. Just not sure if that would be superior in any way
Is that a Holley inspired floating head there?
I love the disembodied head!
Steve where are you building this? Would I be able to build this in climate zone 4A or would you be worried about condensation on the back of the sheathing?
You didn’t mention offsetting the studs for sound deadening purposes!!
I made a comment about the origin of the "Dudley Box". For some reason my comment was deleted.
The Dudley Box was named after Dan Dudley according to an article called "Window Installation Tips for a Deep Energy Retrofit".
I don't think the box Steven is describing is a Dudley Box. At least that is what I gathered from the article. I think what Steven is talking about is more commonly called a "Window Buck".
Steve, Could you use I-joist vertical to get wall depth instead of double wall?
Seems like a deep cavity for a window
Is this a better method than just putting additional insulation on the outside wall? Like Zip-R or foam etc?
Is a 2x4 for inner and outer wall not a good idea? Cost difference mean much or it just better to go with the 2x6 outer and 2x4 inner? I'm in Kentucky for regional concerns. Great content by the way.
I'd imagine you save having a 2x6 exterior because it takes less boards overall to bear the load. 24-32on center instead of 12-16.
Great content as usual Steve. Question. I can see that this is a great wall design. But to my mind, and I have no expertise in this subject, I don’t see the advantage of the double wall over a single frame wall with exterior insulation? Framers would only have to go round one time building one wall and there would be lower lumber costs also. What your thoughts? Interested as just moved from the UK to Calgary, AB and we are considering doing our own build. TIA
I'd guess money and easier detailing at the exterior side of window openings. Cellulose is a LOT less expensive than exterior rigid and I suspect the labor costs of installing exterior insulation vs. a second 2x4 interior wall probably offset. They did not do it in this detail but the vapor barrier could be placed at the interior face of the 2x6 and then the cavity in the double stud wall would act as a service cavity making it easier to run electrical and plumbing (if the cavity were slightly bigger). Another easy mod to this wall would be to add 1/4" to the 2" cavity so that the overall width matches a 2x12, then a 1x12 or 2x12 could be used as the window buck if desired, etc.
How does this compare cost wise to Zip R 1” single 2x6 wall?
If the client asked you to then do what you could to take advantage of the double wall for added strength against wind, what would you suggest?
I know you’d want to avoid thermal bridging, but are there gussets, straps, anything, you could add to turn this double wall design into a big structural benefit?
I had the same question. Would something like a double 2x4 wall(offset) with a 2x8 or 2x10 top/bottom plate be, in theory, stronger than a singe 2x6 wall? Asking from the Florida east coast.
@@LogansRun314 :: I’ve looked into this some and what I read (from Green Building Advisor, I believe?) was a single staggered wall was not as strong as a double wall.
But, they didn’t get into specifics… they didn’t explain how this was the case given only the outside wall is noted as the load-bearing wall, and they make no mention of tying the 2 walls together in any manner.
I did see a drawing where a piece of 1/2” plywood was fastened to the sides of a 2x6 & 2x4, at the lower half of the double wall. But, they didn’t say if at every stud, nor mention the thermal bridging. I wondered if a gusset could be used similarly to better effect, since it’s made for connections and is much thinner material.
@@chadcooper7348 That's surprising, I would have thought the opposite.
I'm torn between building a house with CMU(exterior cavity insulation w/air gap then brick) or double wall construction with a single top/bottom plate... I guess we would refer to it as a "single staggered wall" as you mentioned above. The big downside to this method would be the top/bottom plates would not have a thermal break, if opting to not run continuous exterior insulation. Perhaps this is why it's not so popular amongst the double wall crowd?
I have seen that 1/2" plywood idea before and thought it was interesting, but didn't see too much of the detail.
Is it "normal" to frame the inside walls after the outside is finished? I am curious about the various orders of operations.
I would say the few times I've seen it, yes to your question. The structural walls are built first (outside). The internal (or curtain walls) are then done in a more dried in environment similar to how internal walls are usually completed as secondary order of operations in most framing methods I've worked with. You can build all your partition walls before going up to next story or roof, but often (especially when manual moving of materials), the interior walls get in the way of structural / dry-in process and often temp bracing is used to hold structural walls plumb without interior walls to be part of that bracing scheme. Also, note the internal partition walls will tee into the inner part of double wall system (so all that can be done together).
love the content ... video production can use some work.
Brent Hull will put a hex on you for your small non-traditional apron trim detail. …hmmm…I must be watching too much Build Show Network.
Ha!
Can you please invest in a new microphone setup? There are a half dozen very awesome and affordable options from DJI and Rode these days.
I have them, this is an older video
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 That's great to hear (pun intended). Keep up the good work, don't be surprised if i come a calling someday when i'm ready to start my project.