@@BladedAngel should probably mention that a tune Can be really important if you use a bigger or ported throttle bodie anytime you increase the amount of air the engine can suck it will most likely lean out the air fuel ratio and can cause engine damage Reply
I fully agree with improving your skills as a driver, my car only makes 130hp from factory (when it was new), but Ive had it up to 120-135ish, and its humbled me, I consider myself a decent driver and every time I do over 100 in my car, it reminds me that theres always room to learn to be a better driver
There is no better feeling then flying down the freeway with a few other people that know how to drive. Just swooping through the lanes and gliding on turns. Drive safely.
My shocks are already blown so lowering springs can't make it worse 😂 Additionally, I'd like to add thatit's not a bad idea to have cheap tires with low grip as a spare set you put on when you go out for a track day early on, so you can get a feel for what losing grip is like, and putting good tires on when you go back home so that you have that buffer on public roads to make up for what you still have to learn.
Actually using lower end parts first will make you better when you do get to use good parts as you will be more comfortable looking for the new limits.
Stoptech and Powerstop is honestly one of the best brands if youre looking for a basic brake Pad upgrade. Plus it'll give you an idea of what braking power youre looking for, and what you can plan to acquire in the future
Improving the tactile feel is always a better bet than improving power. I have an older Kawasaki 250 Ninja, the ultimate beginner’s bike. Putting an exhaust, K&N and a dynojet tune on it did feel nice. But the adjustable rearsets and the Lindemann custom valved suspension completely changed it from a beginner’s bike to a stonking backroads weapon. Braided brake lines also make a huge difference.
a 250 ninja the ultimate beginners bike? Nah mane, putting the kawasaki aside anything over 150 ain't no beginners ride, let alone manual clutch. You be trippin' on some e85 or your definition of beginner is for beginner racer not someone who's only ever ridden a bicycle.
Episode Idea: How about looking at common performance mods and how they impact gas mileage on daily drivers? Some of us have 300+HP daily drivers that we wouldn't mind going from bad gas mileage to not-quite-as-bad gas mileage. Specifically, which mods both up power AND help fuel economy when daily driving, and which mods add power but wreck fuel economy.
As an MTB rider i can confirm, pads matter A LOT, because they change the temperatures at wich your brakes will still perform well. I don't know about car compounds but i'd assume it's close enough.
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
The throttle body spacer got its roots in carburetor spacers, that did actually boost hp and torque. Today tbs are only good because most have a threaded port for a sensor or methanol injection. I have a car with cheap coilovers and another with drop springs. Drop springs definitely ride better but the Raceland coilovers aren't bad and I can't complain about them!
7:28 There's many Track Oriented pads that can be used in city driving, it's just not recommended if you abuse the breaks like dragging in an automatic or don't downshift.
8:20 or you can just install Linux (free) buy a OBD cable (10$),reflash the factory ECU and then proceed to blow up the engine cuz you have no idea what are you going xd Edit: I wrote OCD instead of OBD for some reason
I can't wait until the "1000HP or bust" scene dissipates. There's been too many times where I mention that I'm aiming for 350hp max for my RX7, and people are shocked and say "bUt WhY nOt 700???" You don't need massive numbers for a quick, fun car. 350hp is PLENTY for a 2200 pound car, especially one that's not being built for straight lines. I want to be able to drive and enjoy my car, not be super cautious and scared it's going to try to kill me any chance it gets. It's currently sitting at about 120hp and its decently quick with just that!
Bro I’ve been following you since you were in college lmao things have changed so much and so little over the time and keep getting coming, keep it up please
Oh yeah, absolutely don't underestimate your vehicle! When I got my Scat Pack Challenger last year I was all cocky and was like "PFFFF!" I grew up driving old Camaros and Chevelles with small blocks of around the mid 300HP range or a little better. I thought to myself, if I could handle those I can handle this machine... First time I disabled traction control I was proven wrong, got my first taste of nearly 500 horsepower and I went for an embarrassing ride!
I recently went from 155hp (base 5 speed rsx) to my 238 hp (rx8 6 speed) and the difference in even that little bit of horsepower was amazing I couldn't imagine a 200 hp difference stay safe!
Get better tires, and just use common sense, if you spin, just pull out, just like on any other car you've driven before. Congrats on your purchase btw 👍
@@SomeOne_86 I got the T/A package, comes with Pirelli P Zero 275/40's on all four corners. They're all seasons, but still good tires. I do intend to buy some aftermarket rims and sportier tires at some point.
@@SomeOne_86 On a second note, I was showing off! lol Went to drift out of a parking lot, it was looking real good until I got a little too confident and grabbed second gear. Luckily the only consequences where I just looked like a fool and fishtailed ALOT. But it was enough to humble me.
Bladed, You should probably caveat that the more mods you add to your car, the harder email tunes become. Mainly because your setup is now very unique. It is then very hard to find a vehicle that has all the same mods installed to build a dyno tune against. To your point though, for a mostly stock build, email tunes are great for the reasons you outlined. You can still do a lot with a remote tune even if your car is mostly custom. A remote tune was used to resolve a hard to start when cold issue on my car, which is far from stock. I look at remote tunes as being the differnece between a technician working on your computer remotely and locally. It really depends on whats needing to be done and how familiar the technician is with your build.
to add to the last point about being a safe driver in unexpected situations: It's almost never the horsepower of a car that makes it dangerous, but the road you drive it on. A car on a flat plane can literally *not* crash. As long as you have enough space, any mistake can be corrected. Hence, my advice: If you intend on driving faster than what can be categorized as regular driving, learn the road first! NEVER try to go fast into an unknown. A simple, unexpected bump or pothole can destroy everything in a matter of seconds
You should add oil drain valves to the list. It replaces the oil drain plug for super easy oil changes. I got the Fumoto valve for about $30 USD. I now do my own oil changes in less than 30 minutes
I learn a lot of things from your videos, even though I can't afford a car for years to come, I will work my way to get and enjoy a financially friendly and fun enough car/any moving vehicle in future.
Gonna have to hard disagree on the led lights. Most car reflectors, unless they're made for leds, are halogen based which have a totally different light spread design due to less light output. If you want to change your lights to leds, the best thing to do is change the housing as well to one that's designed for leds. Which usually costs at least $200-$300 to get a good one.
The first time I worked on a Vehicle was a fix job... Deer... Had to replace the Front bumper, both headlights, right Fender and AC/Transmission Rad and Rad Mount, as well as a wire harness that I couldn't find a full replacement for so I grabbed one from a newer year, and spliced it in. She's still on the road to this day.
The drivermod is Soooo true. It actually blows my mind how many kids on the internet scoff at 600hp cars as if that’s not an insane amount of power. It is, and it’s not easy to control while driving it hard. People who say 600hp isn’t fast have never driven a car that fast. Even people who regularly drive 700+ hp cars will say that they’re fast and anyone who brags “I’ve driven so many cars with higher hp it feels slow to me” is lying.
Exactly, 270 hp feels like lightning fast and is already hard to control driving hard. Idk how people drive 600+, they must never floor it or get close to the limit.
@@nicholasn.2883 you’re never going to find the limit of most 600hp cars on the street. On the track you can find it pretty quickly, but track driving is something not everyone is into.
My dad built a completely custom first gen Camaro that clocked 680hp on a dyno and all you have to give it is about 30% throttle to have it send you flying down the highway. Easily the most fun car I have driven
Anyone whos reading this and hasn't started buying mods yet. Once you start there is no end. I literally cannot stop looking for more mods and i don't even know how i have restrained myself this much.
With all of the videos you make you’re really gonna help me with my first car and when I might get a Mitsubishi lancer and tune. It’s gonna be a lot of money but I hope I can
they aren’t really driving classes. SCCA is a program where any regular person can enter into racing events and just have fun with their car or a rental. They have regular easy to enter events such as time trial, autocross, enduro, and professional racing events like GT3, GT4, USF2000, etc. It’s actually a really cool program and if you seek to get into professional racing but you’ve never had any racing history or anything, SCCA is the perfect place to start
Something I didn’t find out until I started modifying bikes: you don’t actually need bigger brakes to have more stopping power, just bigger diameter discs and to move the caliper farther out to fit, yadda yadda torque equals force times distance
All great recommendations, but synthetic oil is a pain with older engines where they are more likely to leak with synthetic vs traditional oil. Had this issue with my old truck.
Got myself a '94 Chevy with a 350, gave it Walmart brand synthetic. Loses less oil than some newer cars I see.its all about the condition of the seals.
9:41 ROTARIES ARE EXEMPT FROM THIS Reliability is dependant on carbon buildup and oiling. Synthetic oil doesn't burn off well in the chambers and isn't recommended unless you premix with an OMP Delete/ SOHN Adapter which is only necessary if it's constantly beat on so don't do that unless your commute is like Initial D/Wangan Midnight or race.
Hey there Bladed! Love the video as always! Any recommendations on good technical videos/reference material on starting out working on cars? Specifically regarding tuneups. Much love from Germany
This is very helpful bladed! As someone who just recently purchased their first performance sedan I really want to learn the limits of it in a safe and controlled environment 💯
That last point about driver mod: while I have not taken a class on paper, backroad testing has kept me from some dangerous situations that bad drivers on the road have caused. One: I have had a fully loaded semi decide to merge into me without checking (literally just started moving over as soon as I saw their blinker), and I had to use the sholder heavily to avoid being squashed. This happened at 80mph on the freeway. Two: I've also had to do evasive lane changes from unpredictable cars, and knowing how you and your car handles a sudden lane change is critical.
I have a cold air intake and straight pipe. Planning on upgrading throttle body, intake manifold, injectors, etc but didn’t want to tune it until after all that. Good to know they’re free because it’s probably a good idea if I tune it now rather than later.
Just bought my car last monday. A ford fiesta 2012 1.3L. Love it so much i already changed the front light to white led lights and puprle inside😂 . Added a airfilter too and it sounds so much better
I watch these vids knowing damn well my car is gonna remain bone stock because i enjoy how silent the engine is and how comfortable my current springs and tires are
imo, the best cheap "mod" I've done in the early stages of my car enthusiast journey is adding a universal key fob to my car that could only originally unlock with just the key, I use it every day and I have no idea how I did without it
Great vid, thank you. Watching different videos and pics, I wanted to do so many mods to dad's Altima. But then I realized that i simply can't handle this, tried upgraded badge but couldn't stick it properly, glue came out underneath. I tried to check for good tires, and apparently, used slicks that i can afford, they not safe. Ended buying flor mat from Amazon, which is actually nice, although it generic and not specifically for Altima.
Why buy the ported throttle body when you can remove the existing throttle body port it, polish it and put it back in. If you have the tools or have a friend who has the tools it is basically a free mod.
Trying not to be the aktchually guy but doing so . throttle body spacers can net some gains but not because of some magical response or tumbling bullshit cnc machining as you see in some parts but by changing the plenum volume on your stock intake can modify the powerband although gains wont be 20hp but more like 2/5 and will change on car to car basis (exactly like carb spacers work in some cases and not on onthers) . with that said a ported/bigger throttle body is still a better bang for you buck modification and most of the times you dont even need to pay tons of money on aftermarket ones usualy there are oem options that you can easily get for less money and will be plug and play
Thanks for the advice and tips Ill stick to perf mods until I get a project car because I don't think any amount of cosmetic mods can make a 3rd gen Prius look good....
Had to pause the video to make this comment but let's tackle the issue with Halogen/LED and Xenon bulbs. You're on the right track with the blue colour temperatures. The yellow replacement bulbs actually produce a higher lux reading in 'scientific testing' and give better visibility. Every manufacturer will have different colour outputs for the same 4000K or 6500K ratings etc. regardless most people will go for the cooler colour despite them producing less lux output and visibility just for the more modern look as I did with my HIDs. About the LED 'upgrades', I know a lot of new car enthusiasts watch your videos so I would strongly urge them or please make a follow up video on buying the proper replacement bulbs. I see far too many 2010 Honda Civic's, 2008 RAM 1500's, 2008 Ford Explorer's, 2010 Toyota Matrix', the list goes on in my area driving around with cheap LED bulbs from Amazon or AliExpress. The issue with these aftermarket LED bulbs is that have no regulations or standards they need to go by and when put into a reflector housing, the LED chips on the bulb are not in the right places inside the housing (often in excess) and they end up bleeding all over the reflector and you're essentially driving with high beams on 24/7 especially when they are put into bulb locations used as DRLs. With regular OEM/OE replacements from Philips/Osram/Sylvania, whether it'd be filament or LED, the light source hot spot is in the correct spot to the millimetre so the factory headlight whether it'd be halogen or HID xenons can correctly project the light into a 'low beam' and have the correct cutoffs. A lot of people think they have a brighter headlight because they end up seeing reflective signs light up not realizing they are blinding oncoming traffic. In addition to that, most people are using the correct bulb and factory headlights however they don't adjust their headlights after a collision. I had experienced this first-hand after hitting a coyote on the freeway. I used the adjustment screws on my headlight (which every single car has) found a flat parking lot and wall and aligned them from 0 ft - 25 ft. When this is all done correctly, none of your headlight light should hit above in any of the glass area of other vehicles or overhead destination signs.
Throttle body spacers are only useful if you're doing a small nos shot or meth injection via the throttle body spacer. Otherwise, usually junk One of the tuners I've worked with in the past does exactly what you said when remote tuning. You tell him your current mods, he straps em on his car, and tunes the car
about the plug in tuning or "remote tune" can this be used also as a tune up for your stock car as it ages? lets say ive got a car its over 10 years old, ive replaced regular parts and the car just over time starts to run slightly lean or rich even if everything else in the car is good or replaced, can you use these plug in tune ups to just get your car to running correctly again? HP gains not being the focus of it.
i wouldn't cheap out on led lights tho some of the worse quality ones look brighter to other drivers but cast light worse than a quality halogen but depends on the car i use hella e code lamps and high output halogen bulbs on my miata and lined up to the cheap leds there much better
i wish more people would take adverse driving condition courses, snow and ice arent scarry to me, to me the worst time to drive is when it just starts to rain as you are more likely to hydroplane
I've got a 97 camaro with a 3800 v6. Yeah, yeah I know. V6 camaro. Back off. It's a 5 speed with a pro5.0 short shifter and a limited slip z28 rear end with rear disk. I play on the backroads where I can wind out that 2.73 gear. My BMR lowering springs and Koni shocks keep me glued to the ground. I've deleted the entire ac system and I have a custom cold air intake. It's not fast, but it's fun. If I want to drive a v8 I'll just get in my impala.
i remember installing performance discs and pads on my car and so many people just didnt know that my disc and pad combo naturally squeak. One of em told me my brakes are shot, i literally smiled and said "can you not hear that my car isnt JUST a grocery getter? my brakes arent shot, look at em for a quick second". My car is a grocery getter yes. But for people who know the potential of it, its not far off from a future classic" its a 5 cyl sedan with a good amount of power for its weight with decent handling since it came with golf r32 suspension (no its not a golf or polo). But yeah, as soon as he looked at my brakes he went on and said "fair enough have a nice day"
I've genuinely wanted to do a track night in my 04 wrx wagon for so long. SCCA has two tracks that are 2 hours from me on their list. Really hoping I can see what this 350HP can do on a real track.
you should really get a tune if you use a bigger or ported throttle bodie anytime you increase the amount of air the engine can suck it will most likely lean out the air fuel ratio and can blow an engine
Actually the tbs may have came first or was cheaper first effective upgrade. But it was called a carburetor spacer back then and they definitely work in that application. 😂
Dealing with my '98 civic DX's ram intake wasn't a first decision I made on my own... it was made by the previous owners, who thought that using a 1" length of hosing to couple it to the throttlebody and no bracing or structural reinforcement was fine for a short ram intake on a 1.6L I-4 with 106hp... First thing I'm doing with the new engine (same as the old one, don't get ahead of yourselves, K-swappers) is getting that intake routed to the lower left side of the bay, right behind the radiator fan. After that, I'm open to other mods in the future.
Along your last lines, and it's a bit out of the range - go and track your car. You don't need ANY mods. Just go and do it and have a track day now and again. You'll really get a feel for what you car actually needs as well. Can't brake good? See the brake mod suggestion. Can't brake as well? Time for tires! Need to do better in the turns? Time for suspension goodies and learn sway bar setups. It's the application of using the vehicle that can guide mods for a purpose; and track days are just good fun. Don't hold off, just do it
What are recommended mods for a Mazda 4 banger? I got a cat delete last year and noticed a bit of difference. But i want to see if it's even feasible to try to build more on the engine itself
midnight club 3 streams when
Midnight club canceled soz
@@BladedAngel NOOOOOOO
@@BladedAngel yyyyyyyyyy
@@BladedAngel should probably mention that a tune Can be really important if you use a bigger or ported throttle bodie anytime you increase the amount of air the engine can suck it will most likely lean out the air fuel ratio and can cause engine damage
Reply
Bring back Burnout paradise like the old days
Wish I would’ve seen the info on lowering springs before I did them to my car and blew the shocks 💀
RIP my brother
Hey, now you can't blow them anymore, just use them until you swap to coilovers XD
F
At least next time you’ll actually do research?
Another thing to point out, when modifying your ride height it is important to get an alignment.
I fully agree with improving your skills as a driver, my car only makes 130hp from factory (when it was new), but Ive had it up to 120-135ish, and its humbled me, I consider myself a decent driver and every time I do over 100 in my car, it reminds me that theres always room to learn to be a better driver
Hopefully on a track 😂
I plead the 5th 😂😂
There is no better feeling then flying down the freeway with a few other people that know how to drive.
Just swooping through the lanes and gliding on turns.
Drive safely.
0:04 at first I thought this was a video game where you were playing as the Kia 😂😂😂
My shocks are already blown so lowering springs can't make it worse 😂
Additionally, I'd like to add thatit's not a bad idea to have cheap tires with low grip as a spare set you put on when you go out for a track day early on, so you can get a feel for what losing grip is like, and putting good tires on when you go back home so that you have that buffer on public roads to make up for what you still have to learn.
Actually using lower end parts first will make you better when you do get to use good parts as you will be more comfortable looking for the new limits.
as long as you get beefier shocks that are meant to go with lowering springs you'll be ok
Imagine a strut not costing $650 each……
Cries in comfy seats of Volvo
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F
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It's okay bro. I feel your pain as a former Volvo S60 and current MB E63 AMG owner 😔
@@GoldenEagleXTND bruh,you broke the chain
You're supposed to say F
Bladed, thefact that you have Hanabi playing as your background music brings me an overwhelming sense of nostalgia. Great video BTW!
New bleach season made me relisten to all og songs
@Bladed Angel New season is Awesome as hell!!
Keep up the dope videos, big dawg!
installed canned tuna into my car and now my car smells like fish, hardly even increased my horsepower either, total scam.
Stoptech and Powerstop is honestly one of the best brands if youre looking for a basic brake Pad upgrade. Plus it'll give you an idea of what braking power youre looking for, and what you can plan to acquire in the future
I use Carbotech on Z06 personally, but yeah Stoptech are quality n affordable. I use them on my Mustang n FXDR
@@BladedAngel I just ordered in some Powerstop Z26 Street Warriors. Both pads and Rotors. Looks and performs good
+rep on stop tech
@@magicmanv2658 Great buy. Depends on what are you running now, the Z26 are as good as stock, in some aspects are even better.
I like to run Detroit axle
Improving the tactile feel is always a better bet than improving power. I have an older Kawasaki 250 Ninja, the ultimate beginner’s bike. Putting an exhaust, K&N and a dynojet tune on it did feel nice. But the adjustable rearsets and the Lindemann custom valved suspension completely changed it from a beginner’s bike to a stonking backroads weapon. Braided brake lines also make a huge difference.
a 250 ninja the ultimate beginners bike? Nah mane, putting the kawasaki aside anything over 150 ain't no beginners ride, let alone manual clutch. You be trippin' on some e85 or your definition of beginner is for beginner racer not someone who's only ever ridden a bicycle.
Episode Idea: How about looking at common performance mods and how they impact gas mileage on daily drivers? Some of us have 300+HP daily drivers that we wouldn't mind going from bad gas mileage to not-quite-as-bad gas mileage. Specifically, which mods both up power AND help fuel economy when daily driving, and which mods add power but wreck fuel economy.
Correct me if im wrong, but, im pretty sure turbos can give a boost in fuel economy?
@Eggfool They can, but don't always. Like many things, if they are tuned for maximum power, then efficiency and gas mileage go down.
@@SvdSinner That is true, they have to be tuned for what you want to get out of them.
good video that i have watched all of
I, too, have watched all of this video
interesting as i have also watched all of it
peculiar, i have watched all of it aswell
Watched all of it gang wya?
Is this the line for the watch all of it group?
But bladed where is the 8 car mods for $200?
I found the Miata, found it out of my budget 💀
😢
As an MTB rider i can confirm, pads matter A LOT, because they change the temperatures at wich your brakes will still perform well. I don't know about car compounds but i'd assume it's close enough.
I've been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you're painting the door, it's better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you're unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding.
The throttle body spacer got its roots in carburetor spacers, that did actually boost hp and torque. Today tbs are only good because most have a threaded port for a sensor or methanol injection.
I have a car with cheap coilovers and another with drop springs. Drop springs definitely ride better but the Raceland coilovers aren't bad and I can't complain about them!
7:28 There's many Track Oriented pads that can be used in city driving, it's just not recommended if you abuse the breaks like dragging in an automatic or don't downshift.
1:49 that whole sentence is accurate af😂😂
8:20 or you can just install Linux (free) buy a OBD cable (10$),reflash the factory ECU and then proceed to blow up the engine cuz you have no idea what are you going xd
Edit: I wrote OCD instead of OBD for some reason
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I can't wait until the "1000HP or bust" scene dissipates. There's been too many times where I mention that I'm aiming for 350hp max for my RX7, and people are shocked and say "bUt WhY nOt 700???" You don't need massive numbers for a quick, fun car. 350hp is PLENTY for a 2200 pound car, especially one that's not being built for straight lines. I want to be able to drive and enjoy my car, not be super cautious and scared it's going to try to kill me any chance it gets. It's currently sitting at about 120hp and its decently quick with just that!
i’m new to the scene kinda, how do you plan on adding an addition 130hp to your car?
Bro I’ve been following you since you were in college lmao things have changed so much and so little over the time and keep getting coming, keep it up please
Oh yeah, absolutely don't underestimate your vehicle! When I got my Scat Pack Challenger last year I was all cocky and was like "PFFFF!" I grew up driving old Camaros and Chevelles with small blocks of around the mid 300HP range or a little better. I thought to myself, if I could handle those I can handle this machine...
First time I disabled traction control I was proven wrong, got my first taste of nearly 500 horsepower and I went for an embarrassing ride!
I recently went from 155hp (base 5 speed rsx) to my 238 hp (rx8 6 speed) and the difference in even that little bit of horsepower was amazing I couldn't imagine a 200 hp difference stay safe!
Get better tires, and just use common sense, if you spin, just pull out, just like on any other car you've driven before. Congrats on your purchase btw 👍
@@SomeOne_86 yeah boi get them super good tires
@@SomeOne_86 I got the T/A package, comes with Pirelli P Zero 275/40's on all four corners.
They're all seasons, but still good tires. I do intend to buy some aftermarket rims and sportier tires at some point.
@@SomeOne_86 On a second note, I was showing off! lol
Went to drift out of a parking lot, it was looking real good until I got a little too confident and grabbed second gear. Luckily the only consequences where I just looked like a fool and fishtailed ALOT. But it was enough to humble me.
Bladed,
You should probably caveat that the more mods you add to your car, the harder email tunes become. Mainly because your setup is now very unique. It is then very hard to find a vehicle that has all the same mods installed to build a dyno tune against. To your point though, for a mostly stock build, email tunes are great for the reasons you outlined. You can still do a lot with a remote tune even if your car is mostly custom. A remote tune was used to resolve a hard to start when cold issue on my car, which is far from stock. I look at remote tunes as being the differnece between a technician working on your computer remotely and locally. It really depends on whats needing to be done and how familiar the technician is with your build.
to add to the last point about being a safe driver in unexpected situations:
It's almost never the horsepower of a car that makes it dangerous, but the road you drive it on. A car on a flat plane can literally *not* crash. As long as you have enough space, any mistake can be corrected. Hence, my advice:
If you intend on driving faster than what can be categorized as regular driving, learn the road first! NEVER try to go fast into an unknown. A simple, unexpected bump or pothole can destroy everything in a matter of seconds
glad to see SCCA get more recognition
I put synthetic in my old accord and although I don't notice a power difference I do notice it idle smoother and quieter at idle
You should add oil drain valves to the list. It replaces the oil drain plug for super easy oil changes. I got the Fumoto valve for about $30 USD. I now do my own oil changes in less than 30 minutes
I learn a lot of things from your videos, even though I can't afford a car for years to come,
I will work my way to get and enjoy a financially friendly and fun enough car/any moving vehicle in future.
I recognize this area that your driving in! I didn’t know any famous RUclipsrs live in my area… pretty cool
I'm really glad you brought that last point up. Usually overlooked.
Gonna have to hard disagree on the led lights. Most car reflectors, unless they're made for leds, are halogen based which have a totally different light spread design due to less light output. If you want to change your lights to leds, the best thing to do is change the housing as well to one that's designed for leds. Which usually costs at least $200-$300 to get a good one.
The first time I worked on a Vehicle was a fix job... Deer... Had to replace the Front bumper, both headlights, right Fender and AC/Transmission Rad and Rad Mount, as well as a wire harness that I couldn't find a full replacement for so I grabbed one from a newer year, and spliced it in. She's still on the road to this day.
The drivermod is Soooo true. It actually blows my mind how many kids on the internet scoff at 600hp cars as if that’s not an insane amount of power. It is, and it’s not easy to control while driving it hard. People who say 600hp isn’t fast have never driven a car that fast. Even people who regularly drive 700+ hp cars will say that they’re fast and anyone who brags “I’ve driven so many cars with higher hp it feels slow to me” is lying.
Exactly, 270 hp feels like lightning fast and is already hard to control driving hard. Idk how people drive 600+, they must never floor it or get close to the limit.
@@nicholasn.2883 you’re never going to find the limit of most 600hp cars on the street. On the track you can find it pretty quickly, but track driving is something not everyone is into.
You could have mentioned weight reduction as a cheap mod, don’t know if it counts because you’re taking stuff off your car but it sure can be cheap
My dad built a completely custom first gen Camaro that clocked 680hp on a dyno and all you have to give it is about 30% throttle to have it send you flying down the highway. Easily the most fun car I have driven
Anyone whos reading this and hasn't started buying mods yet. Once you start there is no end. I literally cannot stop looking for more mods and i don't even know how i have restrained myself this much.
With all of the videos you make you’re really gonna help me with my first car and when I might get a Mitsubishi lancer and tune. It’s gonna be a lot of money but I hope I can
Yeah I need to take those type of driving classes.
they aren’t really driving classes. SCCA is a program where any regular person can enter into racing events and just have fun with their car or a rental. They have regular easy to enter events such as time trial, autocross, enduro, and professional racing events like GT3, GT4, USF2000, etc. It’s actually a really cool program and if you seek to get into professional racing but you’ve never had any racing history or anything, SCCA is the perfect place to start
Driver mod is the best advice, thought I was a decent driver but went to my first auto cross and got humbled real quick
Something I didn’t find out until I started modifying bikes: you don’t actually need bigger brakes to have more stopping power, just bigger diameter discs and to move the caliper farther out to fit, yadda yadda torque equals force times distance
Bruh I was watching his video about Brakes and now I got even more information thank you very much
thanks for the tip on the scca,
i always dreamt about driving like an ultima without looking like one.
Great video man!
All great recommendations, but synthetic oil is a pain with older engines where they are more likely to leak with synthetic vs traditional oil. Had this issue with my old truck.
Got myself a '94 Chevy with a 350, gave it Walmart brand synthetic. Loses less oil than some newer cars I see.its all about the condition of the seals.
9:41 ROTARIES ARE EXEMPT FROM THIS
Reliability is dependant on carbon buildup and oiling. Synthetic oil doesn't burn off well in the chambers and isn't recommended unless you premix with an OMP Delete/ SOHN Adapter which is only necessary if it's constantly beat on so don't do that unless your commute is like Initial D/Wangan Midnight or race.
Hey there Bladed!
Love the video as always!
Any recommendations on good technical videos/reference material on starting out working on cars? Specifically regarding tuneups.
Much love from Germany
did you ever find out?
This is very helpful bladed! As someone who just recently purchased their first performance sedan I really want to learn the limits of it in a safe and controlled environment 💯
Just like the dealership parking lot.
That last point about driver mod: while I have not taken a class on paper, backroad testing has kept me from some dangerous situations that bad drivers on the road have caused.
One: I have had a fully loaded semi decide to merge into me without checking (literally just started moving over as soon as I saw their blinker), and I had to use the sholder heavily to avoid being squashed. This happened at 80mph on the freeway.
Two: I've also had to do evasive lane changes from unpredictable cars, and knowing how you and your car handles a sudden lane change is critical.
I have a cold air intake and straight pipe. Planning on upgrading throttle body, intake manifold, injectors, etc but didn’t want to tune it until after all that. Good to know they’re free because it’s probably a good idea if I tune it now rather than later.
10:00 oil is a splash the cash no brainer, if you use crappy oil, it will catch up to you in the long run
you're really going strong with the new content
Just bought my car last monday. A ford fiesta 2012 1.3L. Love it so much i already changed the front light to white led lights and puprle inside😂 . Added a airfilter too and it sounds so much better
I watch these vids knowing damn well my car is gonna remain bone stock because i enjoy how silent the engine is and how comfortable my current springs and tires are
imo, the best cheap "mod" I've done in the early stages of my car enthusiast journey is adding a universal key fob to my car that could only originally unlock with just the key, I use it every day and I have no idea how I did without it
Great vid, thank you. Watching different videos and pics, I wanted to do so many mods to dad's Altima. But then I realized that i simply can't handle this, tried upgraded badge but couldn't stick it properly, glue came out underneath. I tried to check for good tires, and apparently, used slicks that i can afford, they not safe. Ended buying flor mat from Amazon, which is actually nice, although it generic and not specifically for Altima.
Why buy the ported throttle body when you can remove the existing throttle body port it, polish it and put it back in. If you have the tools or have a friend who has the tools it is basically a free mod.
Bigger butterfly
Can you make a video on best places to buy car parts/mods
Good list, but most important is to take from this video what is doable for your car, like for my 1994 diesel Audi half dont work but some do hahaha
Where there is smoke, there is power lmao
@@SomeOne_86 maybe not all the power but most definitely all the tourqe
1:43 Hmm I wonder if magenta daytime running lights exist?
Trying not to be the aktchually guy but doing so . throttle body spacers can net some gains but not because of some magical response or tumbling bullshit cnc machining as you see in some parts but by changing the plenum volume on your stock intake can modify the powerband although gains wont be 20hp but more like 2/5 and will change on car to car basis (exactly like carb spacers work in some cases and not on onthers) . with that said a ported/bigger throttle body is still a better bang for you buck modification and most of the times you dont even need to pay tons of money on aftermarket ones usualy there are oem options that you can easily get for less money and will be plug and play
Thanks for the advice and tips Ill stick to perf mods until I get a project car because I don't think any amount of cosmetic mods can make a 3rd gen Prius look good....
Out the 8, only 4 are doable in France. Damn regulations
Had to pause the video to make this comment but let's tackle the issue with Halogen/LED and Xenon bulbs.
You're on the right track with the blue colour temperatures. The yellow replacement bulbs actually produce a higher lux reading in 'scientific testing' and give better visibility. Every manufacturer will have different colour outputs for the same 4000K or 6500K ratings etc. regardless most people will go for the cooler colour despite them producing less lux output and visibility just for the more modern look as I did with my HIDs.
About the LED 'upgrades', I know a lot of new car enthusiasts watch your videos so I would strongly urge them or please make a follow up video on buying the proper replacement bulbs. I see far too many 2010 Honda Civic's, 2008 RAM 1500's, 2008 Ford Explorer's, 2010 Toyota Matrix', the list goes on in my area driving around with cheap LED bulbs from Amazon or AliExpress. The issue with these aftermarket LED bulbs is that have no regulations or standards they need to go by and when put into a reflector housing, the LED chips on the bulb are not in the right places inside the housing (often in excess) and they end up bleeding all over the reflector and you're essentially driving with high beams on 24/7 especially when they are put into bulb locations used as DRLs.
With regular OEM/OE replacements from Philips/Osram/Sylvania, whether it'd be filament or LED, the light source hot spot is in the correct spot to the millimetre so the factory headlight whether it'd be halogen or HID xenons can correctly project the light into a 'low beam' and have the correct cutoffs. A lot of people think they have a brighter headlight because they end up seeing reflective signs light up not realizing they are blinding oncoming traffic.
In addition to that, most people are using the correct bulb and factory headlights however they don't adjust their headlights after a collision. I had experienced this first-hand after hitting a coyote on the freeway. I used the adjustment screws on my headlight (which every single car has) found a flat parking lot and wall and aligned them from 0 ft - 25 ft. When this is all done correctly, none of your headlight light should hit above in any of the glass area of other vehicles or overhead destination signs.
That's a big ASS tires on the right hand side, holy molly! is that a reference to the previous video?
The Camry statement is unfairly true my first car was a Camry and I drove a fkin Jetta with an intake and it felt fast :’)
Throttle body spacers are only useful if you're doing a small nos shot or meth injection via the throttle body spacer. Otherwise, usually junk
One of the tuners I've worked with in the past does exactly what you said when remote tuning. You tell him your current mods, he straps em on his car, and tunes the car
Good video that im about to watch all of
If the mod aren’t in forza I don’t need them 😂
about the plug in tuning or "remote tune" can this be used also as a tune up for your stock car as it ages? lets say ive got a car its over 10 years old, ive replaced regular parts and the car just over time starts to run slightly lean or rich even if everything else in the car is good or replaced, can you use these plug in tune ups to just get your car to running correctly again? HP gains not being the focus of it.
Driver Mod best Mod 100%. Nothing makes a car or person better than practice
i wouldn't cheap out on led lights tho some of the worse quality ones look brighter to other drivers but cast light worse than a quality halogen but depends on the car i use hella e code lamps and high output halogen bulbs on my miata and lined up to the cheap leds there much better
What song is playing in the background?
Another great video.
My first mod was changing spark plugs on a FRS… it was almost the last
Bilstein makes struts that are fit for lowering springs
Done all of IT 👍
I use full synthetic in my 96 Impala SS. The only car I keep conventional right now is my RX-8 because I don't have a SOHN adapter
i wish more people would take adverse driving condition courses, snow and ice arent scarry to me, to me the worst time to drive is when it just starts to rain as you are more likely to hydroplane
A vid on like mods for my cheap A-B car? (Example: 08’ Scion tc) (love this thing)
Track pads are less effective when cold so yea they are a big no no for daily driving that and they wear out faster and cost more
I've got a 97 camaro with a 3800 v6. Yeah, yeah I know. V6 camaro. Back off. It's a 5 speed with a pro5.0 short shifter and a limited slip z28 rear end with rear disk. I play on the backroads where I can wind out that 2.73 gear. My BMR lowering springs and Koni shocks keep me glued to the ground. I've deleted the entire ac system and I have a custom cold air intake. It's not fast, but it's fun. If I want to drive a v8 I'll just get in my impala.
I’m waiting for the spec sheet mfs to comment ‘nOT eNogH GaInS’
But, Forza said I can throw a race spec turbo on my v12 swapped vw golf from 2003 and not blow the motor.
@@jonathanpinckney9227 yeah ofc everyone knows you can put a twincharge kit on a peel p50 stock motor and not blow the block
@@theplayer12312 Don't forget changing your entire gear ratio range with a slider by swapping in a race transmission.
@@jonathanpinckney9227 oh yea and dont forget about the magic fully-adjustable coilovers
i remember installing performance discs and pads on my car and so many people just didnt know that my disc and pad combo naturally squeak. One of em told me my brakes are shot, i literally smiled and said "can you not hear that my car isnt JUST a grocery getter? my brakes arent shot, look at em for a quick second". My car is a grocery getter yes. But for people who know the potential of it, its not far off from a future classic" its a 5 cyl sedan with a good amount of power for its weight with decent handling since it came with golf r32 suspension (no its not a golf or polo). But yeah, as soon as he looked at my brakes he went on and said "fair enough have a nice day"
Drew Peacock be following all of your advice.
I've genuinely wanted to do a track night in my 04 wrx wagon for so long. SCCA has two tracks that are 2 hours from me on their list. Really hoping I can see what this 350HP can do on a real track.
you should really get a tune if you use a bigger or ported throttle bodie anytime you increase the amount of air the engine can suck it will most likely lean out the air fuel ratio and can blow an engine
9:50 I change my synthetic oil at 3k. I'll go longer when someone can convince me that oil that's used longer is better for my engine
Actually the tbs may have came first or was cheaper first effective upgrade. But it was called a carburetor spacer back then and they definitely work in that application. 😂
The first mod I did to my car was installing bluetooth on my factory radio and now I feel like a professional mechanic 💀
also with race pads you have to warm them up before they actually start being able to stop the car with its best performance
an email tune is also nice because u can go back to stock super easy for smog
Dealing with my '98 civic DX's ram intake wasn't a first decision I made on my own... it was made by the previous owners, who thought that using a 1" length of hosing to couple it to the throttlebody and no bracing or structural reinforcement was fine for a short ram intake on a 1.6L I-4 with 106hp...
First thing I'm doing with the new engine (same as the old one, don't get ahead of yourselves, K-swappers) is getting that intake routed to the lower left side of the bay, right behind the radiator fan.
After that, I'm open to other mods in the future.
I wish stuff was this cheap where I live lmao. I'd really love to live in in the US :/
Along your last lines, and it's a bit out of the range - go and track your car. You don't need ANY mods. Just go and do it and have a track day now and again. You'll really get a feel for what you car actually needs as well. Can't brake good? See the brake mod suggestion. Can't brake as well? Time for tires! Need to do better in the turns? Time for suspension goodies and learn sway bar setups. It's the application of using the vehicle that can guide mods for a purpose; and track days are just good fun. Don't hold off, just do it
My first mod was an aftermarket starter lmao 😂
What are recommended mods for a Mazda 4 banger? I got a cat delete last year and noticed a bit of difference. But i want to see if it's even feasible to try to build more on the engine itself
in my humble opinion the undreglow only looks good on high-performance sports JDMs like the supra mazda rx7 etc and some modern muscle cars
Bruh, I'm Jonesing for some underglow! When I get my C8 Z06 in a few yrs, purple engine lighting baby!
Synthetic Oil is the shit. Make sure to get a good filter that will last those 5-10k miles.
When I bought my lowering springs I just bought them off marketplace with shortened shocks for 100 bucks