GROHE | Euphoria Exposed Shower System Installation Tips & Tricks | Installation Video
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- Опубликовано: 8 май 2024
- Learn how to install the Euphoria SmartControl Exposed Shower System with this step-by-step video.
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Great installation video for this system. Very informative and detailed. Thanks!
Thank you! We are very happy to hear you liked it!
As much as I appreciate these videos from Grohe - the one thing they don't show is how one goes about making sure there are no leaks behind the esutcheons as the S-union connection is just inside the wall. From everything I have read, because of the parallel threads, it is not a given that there won't be any leaks - especially the ones where there is just one drop every few minutes. I wish Grohe also had given an approach to make sure that the G 1/2 S Union connection is not leaking behind the tiled wall.
I just installed 30+ of these in a building and I have some thoughts.
I decided to not use the parallel thread cut off nipple and locktite 55, but instead just did a 1/2" brass nipple into my wingback inside the wall then put a 1/2 brass coupling on the nipple to get me back to female thread so I could then put the s union adapters into my couplings. If you do this just make sure your wingbacks are far enough back inside the wall to fit a nipple + coupling and be able to thread in the s union without sticking too far outside the front of the shower. I was able to make it work with a 2x4 wall, 1 1/2" thick backing behind my wingback, typically using a 1 1/2-2" nipple, it helped that my surround stuck out 1/2' past the drywall.
Its not ideal threading the parallel thread s-union into a tapered coupling, especially since then it goes into the wall and there will be no way to check if it leaks. But I felt it was safer than 2 parallel threads making a joint inside the wall. I tightened the s-union into the coupling first before assembling the rest so I could at least see the joint and ensure it was tight before threading it into the wall. Be careful not to overtighten into a wingback, because the s-unions are offset there is a tendency to try to get 1 more turn sometimes to get both unions into the same position.
if your lucky once you've assembled the s-union into the coupling, then onto the nipple and into the wingback, the face of your s-union will hopefully be 1 1/2" off the shower surround once tight. ( once tight silicone between the s-union and surround to make a water tight seal behind the escutcheons) Then when the escutcheons thread onto the s-union they can thread all the way back to the wall. But honestly like 30% of mine did not work out, a 1 1/2" long nipple would be too short and the s union did not stick out far enough from the surround to thread on the escutcheons and have enough threads remaining for the mixing valve. When I changed it to a 2" long nipple it stuck out too far and the escutcheons would thread off the back of the s-union and hang. I always opted to put the longer nipple in and ensure my joints were good. I ended up siliconing the escutcheons to the wall for the rest but it looked bad and they will break loose in time.
This whole situation could be avoided if Grohe just put an extra 3/8" of threads on the s-union for the threaded escutcheons, so it would work if your nipple was 1/4" too long. its frustrating that nipples only come in half inch increments and grohe only gives you 1/4' of adjustment with the escutcheons. Also if they went this route they could just ditch the whole parallel thread thing and use regular tapered threads. I don't get why they are trying to reinvent the wheel.
my Grotherm 1000 boxes came with some hard red washers, I did not use these. The s-unions I got had a black rubber on the end and this sealed well to the mixing valve. also if it leaks there it will at least leak into the shower haha.
anyway its been a few weeks and no leaks have shown up so I guess this worked, I hope I don't have to install these again. it sucks having a joint that has to hold static pressure inside of a wall using parallel thread and not being able to check it without cutting in an access or something.
Hi, will I able to get an extended vertical shower system pipe? it's too short for my shower room. Thanks
Can the diverter valve handle be reversed with the thermostat handle?
Hello, the first time I used the threading, one of them did not seal properly, when I removed the fitting the threading was shredded and I am now unable to properly seal the fitting. Finding replacement threading is near impossible. What is a good alternative. Also, I'm assuming this threading is cheap, it's ridiculous that a $1000 shower system doesn't come with any spare threading, especially considering how specialized this part is. Please consider adding extra threading to kits in the future
much better to use fast fix mounting?
i have a 2 handle shower valve on a apartment building wich is constantly flutuacting the temperature would this solve my problem?
Super demonstration, detailed and very clearly explained! Thank you! Which Grohe Euphoria model is this particular one please?
Hi Natasha! Thank you for the positive feedback 😊 The model in this video is the Euphoria System 180.
Kind regards,
Your GROHE Social Team
Muy interesante, se podia mejorar, hay muchos momentos que solo veo manos.
So the hot water is on the right side when you are the shower?
I am in the process of installing a Grohe Euphoria Shower System. I notice that in this video the Easy Adapter is cut to be flush with the tile surface. But the Grohe installation manual indicates that it be cut to be 1/4" inside (X + 1/4). I think cutting flush is better as more of the S-union will go in to the easy-adapter and still maintain minimum outside distance. Why the X+1/4 in the installation manual?
I am adding what I found out regarding my own question. Grohe USA replied to me saying that both the flush cut as well as the X+1/4 cut will work. The X+1/4 ensures that there won't be a gap between the escutcheons and the valve.
What is I haven’t got female threaded pipes in the wall , instead I’ve for copper pipes sticking out of the wall by 6 inches
Hello, you don't show what kind or size of fittings the cold and hot pex waterline is connected to, what are the "2 easy install connectors" connected to and how are they mounted? I understand the distance is 5 7/8" spread, center to center. Are the receiving fittings screwed into the 2"x 4". Thank you, but I think you need to show that for us DYI people.
Hi Kenny! Thank you for your question. The PEX lines will need to have ½” connections. The easy install adapters connect to drop elbows which are secured to the 2x4 to hold them in place. - GROHE Social Team
What isn't shown in this video is whether the joint between the cutoff nipple and the eccentric adapter actually holds under pressure. I suspect it leaks. I have installed a dozen of these units before Grohe started including the cut off nipple and an eccentric adapter that mate together with parallel threads as opposed to tapered npt. This change seemed to happen when the last three digits of the model # changed from 000 to 001. I received three of the new style units recently, none of which contained the cord shown in this video. The cord is loctite 55 which is not available in North America. Grohe sent me enough to do the three showers. I followed the instruction to a tee and had one successful joint out of eight attempts. I have been in the trade for forty years so I have a wealth of experience. In was hoping loctite 55 would be the magic answer to sealing parallel threads but it most definitely is not. The only system I'm aware of when joining two parallel threads is when the male thread compresses onto a rubber or fibre washer at the base of the female thread, similar to a swivel nut on a garden hose. There are a couple possible solutions to this problem. Obtain eccentric adapters that have a tapered 1/2" npt on the end that's buried in the wall. You won't get many revolutions into the cutoff nipple so if you have enough depth, replace it with a 1/2" brass nipple and coupling. Or, figure out a way to come out from the 1/2" female that you roughed in and increase to a 3/4" npt male thread s.s. nipple because the 3/4" union nuts on the finish valve body accept both tapered or parallel threads. Sorry if this is over technical.
Hi Tom, thank you for contacting us. You are referring to the easy install adapters part # 408320031, correct? These are offered as singles so you would need 2 or you can get a 124629 which has 2 Easy install adapters and 2 of the S unions. The Loctite 55 can be ordered off of Amazon. You will need a 18” piece of the cord for each S union and it will be wrapped in a criss cross pattern. If you do this it will seal up the threads and not leak. If you'd like more detailed assistance, feel free to email us at groheconsumerconnection@lixil.com. - GROHE Social Team
I installed 2 of these and they always leak with the provided string, I had to use all kinds of thread sealers to make it work, beautiful design, good quality but awful coupling procedures
Thanks for this, Tom but on the same union on mine the parallel (BSP) male threads on one end where the escutcheon goes on and the female nuts from the fixture where it attaches,is measures 1” in diameter not 3/4. Same as a female garden hose except parallel threads. I’ve got 2 drop ears that I’ve set at exactly 5 7/8” or 150mm. Ideally I need a straight reducing nipple fitting that’s 1” bps on one side to 3/4 npt that will screw into the drop ear and eliminate the extender altogether. I believe this would give me the correct depth. I do not trust the cord winding technique and totally agree with you when you say that parallel threads need a washer/o-ring pressed at the end for a
proper seal. I would feel much safer with a npt fitting especially within the wall.
@@velazko007 What ended up working for you? I'm struggling with the s unions. Just ordered some loctite 55, hopefully it works. Should I get some pipe dope too?
Whats the difference between 260 and 310. Seems like both identical just price difference is 150$~
I'm considering buying the easy install adapters to solve my installation problem. (My walls are tiled and grouted at this point and I am using standard S-unions and escutcheons that came with the system.)
My Drop ells are at a depth that leaves a distance of 9/16'' from the surface of the tiled wall to the opening of the drop ell.
Given my situation do you think the easy install adapters can be cut to a length that would help with my install? As per my calculations it seems like I would have to cut them too short i.e. to get the recommended length i'd end up with barely any thread left to screw my standard S-union into the female adapter...Please confirm. Thanks in advance.
Hello, thank you for your question. If you only have 9/16 of an inch from the pipe to the finished wall these will be cut too short to work. These systems can be installed without the adapter by just threading the S union right into you drop ell. - GROHE Social Team
Where do you get the s-unions with the service stops? The s-unions provided with my 260 are too long, causing the escutcheon to sit far off of the threads. My adapter is flush with the tile, and this is still happening. Not quite sure what to do.
I have the exactly the same problem. Can @Grohe helps us please? Thank you
Hello Ian, thank you for contacting us. Can you please send us an email at groheconsumerconnection@lixil.com and write “Attention David Gaines” on the subject line. We'll be happy to assist you. - GROHE Social Team
I would like to know what the reply was. Was this resolved? If so, why was the solution kept secret?
@@marklaipnieks1453 Yep, if Grohe is looking for referrals they're are doing it all wrong. Bad system.
@@marklaipnieks1453 It wasn't solved. These jokers just sent me another set of the brass nipples (after 4 months of waiting). The S-Unions are the problem. For the fourth time.
what kind of treading is that what your are supplying?
Hello, thank you for contacting us. The adapter is going to have ½” male threads (US Threads) that are going to screw into the pipes in the wall. The other side is ½ ” Female thread (EU straight thread) that will connect to the S union on the shower system. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance. - GROHE Social Team
I've had a professional plumber install this system. They have been out 3 times to stop it from leaking. It still leaks. Why come up with a system that you have to hacksaw the threads and use a proprietary threading sealant when the standard system of sealing has worked fine for decades?
Hi H Young, we are sorry to hear about your experience. We would like to help you resolve this issue. Can you please email us at Groheconsumerconnection@lixil.com and write "Attention Cody/Deidrea" in the subject line. - GROHE Social Team
Ikr!
Exactly? They want u to hacksaw the threads and use a dental floss type sealant which if it leaks u have to take it apart and redo. Not enough sealant
These values are garbage. I have had nothing but problems with every single one i have install. I will not install them anymore.
Does Loctite 55 work in place of the Grohe Sealing Cord? I had to back off my install because my s-union leaked. Thanks.
A bit late, but yes! That’s what they include. Grohe specifically recommends/requires 55. Theres videos from Loctite just showing them wrapping it into the threads, but a Grohe rep had mentioned doing so in an X motion. A tip I’ve learned, grab a pair of pliers and gently rough up the threads if they’re too sharp!
Where do you get the shorter bar? In brush nickel
Hi Debbie. Thank you for your question. Sorry, we don't have a shorter bar available for this system in the brushed nickel finish. - GROHE Social Team
why was the valve loose? I have a feeling you kept the plumbing loose for easy install? But, people don't want a loose valve.
Hi Dee, thank you for your question. It is normal for the pipes in the wall to have some give. Once it is tightened completely onto the adapters, it will be firm. These are also PEX pipes, which have a lot more give than copper pipes. - GROHE Social Team
Is the left supply hot or cold?
I wish I knew
I'know it installation.
I'ts my job.
Can not find the EASY INSTALL ADAPTER have no clue how to attach threw the wall
Hi Gaynor, thank you for reaching out to us. Can you please email us at grohetechcare@lixil.com? Please write "Attention Cody" in subject line. Our consumer connection team member will be happy to assist you. - GROHE Social Team
remove lime from thermostatic
I bought this unit. Three plumbers and over a thousand dollars spent it still leaks in the wall cavity. The S-Union straight thread will never seal in the brass adapters. We tried numerous thread cords and tapes. Even tried Loctite 577 to fuse the threads and it still leaks at the S-Union. On straight threads (NPS) there MUST be a rubber washer on both ends to seal. This is a critical design flaw on many Grohe products. I wanted to love this fixture but after hours on the phone with their tech support and hours spent installing and uninstalling this unit, Grohe is now my most hated company on the planet. How could you design something so poorly? This company gives German engineering a bad reputation. I"m so disgusted with this company
🌹👍👍👍🌹
Not to keen on not being able to prove all your connections are water right before tiling ,
Once you cut the adaptor pieces and put your thread tape on them and screwed them back in , you have no idea at all if they are leaking or not behind the wall
Hi Chris, thank you for your question. Grohe does make an optional s union (Sku #12400000) for this product with service stops so that you can pressure test your connections. - GROHE SOCIAL TEAM
Why why why. 12mm- 14mm ? How about you pick a size that comes standard. And how about using tapered threads so that the threads make the seal, not some stupid glorified teflon tape. This is a garbage install, always hate them. As a plumber, never recommend
As a licensed plumber i will tell you these are absolute junk. Stay away from Grohe. Horrible engineering.
Exactly what my journey man says
It’s because, like my plumber, you can’t read and understand instructions.
@@fiouable they're used with the standard American system, everything new is too tricky
Agree. Never recommend. Tapered threads are too complicated, we have to score the machined threads to make the seal? Wrap glorified teflon tape around in the threads, use a 14mm (not sold in any standard set, neither is the 12mm) and hope for the best
This method is so stupid. THe USA already has a working threading system. WE don't want your euro threads. Make the valves work with the US threads.