My 1999 4runner at some point this week showed signs of not wanting to start properly. It stuttered so i stepped on gas pedal to maintain gas flowed it worked, i thought maybe since it was cold it was battery. Didn't worry about until today. Washed my truck cleaned it inside out brushed underneath seats. Go to start it... Nothing, sputtered dumfounded bought new battery, new throttle body hose, cleaned MAF sensor electric connection, checked all fuses including efi. Unplugged fuel line from filter back put in key to ignition without start to see if fuel pump would send pressurized fuel. It did not. I assumed it was fuel pump.😞 Then i saw your vid👀 on the wire harness underneath seat ( remember i was brushing carpets unaware of wiring underneath) and it clicked 🕵i must have touched the wire and harness moved it slightly. I removed harness check it was receiving power. Sprayed connection with electric cleaner. Go start it up And right away it start running like a Champ. Thanks for your video my issues was the harness underneath seat. Good Karma unto you, my good man. 😁
Your comment helped fix my problem! I had been been work on my fuel tank most of the day (for problems not related to getting fuel ) I put everything back together and now it would start. So after pulling the tank again, testing the fuel pump seeing that it is working, putting it all back together still no luck. After reading your comment I remembered that I had put pressure on the plug when taking things apart, my issue was the ground wire in the plug not coming in contact with the pin. PS this fuel pump is silent.
@@2EZEverything did you measure the resistance by any chance on fuel pump? pins 4 and 5, I get 11ohms and technically they say between 3 and 4 or replace.. no power either.. thanks James V. I will check that for sure :D ALL you guys are awEsome
Good job on the diagnosis! You're so right about people that don't know how and just start throwing parts at it until something happens. That's pretty frustrating they'd think to give you that access port to the top of the tank, but not design it to where you can pull the pump through it.
Wow, great diagnosis and lessons! My 2000 4Runner will start 4 out of 5 times. But when it does not start it will turn over several times and have a miss at the end. Then on the next try it starts right up. New fuel pump and starter in which I didn't mind rep[lacing because of age and miles. After your troubleshooting (great skills by the way!) I'm starting to think it something to do with that open relay or something in the key switch. It's like it's not getting fuel on the time it doesn't crank.
Same with my 2000 but he won’t even start up just cranks without cranking over sounds like it’s sucking in a lot of air too car just quit on me while driving it figured fuel pump went out but I’m not the richest so trying to see if it’s something else or fixable with replacing yet
@@ZombieDaveAZThats what I thought but not in my case. I had a bung welded in (for an air/fuel gauge) just above the forward O2 and they damaged the nose of my O2. It may have eventually triggered a CEL but once it cranked it ran fine. Your symptoms are a little different than what I was experiencing tho.
I have 2003 Tacoma 3.4 L my problem is it will fire up 1st start I'll turn it off and it just keeps turning no start, I replaced the fuel filter after I checked the Fuel Regulator which I believe is good, checked the relays it does the click when key is turned to start, swapped them with another relay, so I'm thinking its the pump but I'd like to test it without dropping the tank, any suggestions? this video is 5 years old but maybe you look at your comments Thanks good video!!
You can check the pressure at the fuel rail where the injectors are. Not sure what the psi should be. Perhaps a Toyota forum will have guys with the same problem. I hope that helps a little. Good luck.
If you were near me I would hug you and shake your hand. Was washing my truck (99 limited) then it would not crank. Thought it was ultimately out of timing. Well I thought it was the fuel pump as I have 583k miles on her. I hear no pump come on and no voltage really when I put the DMM on it. I'm going to replace the pump anyways and rewire the dang thang. You are the best best best!!! I can't wait to leave work to work on this now!!!!!! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for your video. It’s the best of all the videos I’ve seen. I really couldn’t find this video is it came up on my feed. I have a no start no crank condition on my on my 98 Toyota 4 x 4 manual. It was running fine before I took out the aftermarket alarm system, which I felt like I had reattached everything perfectly. It was draining the battery now my truck doesn’t start doesn’t crank not the battery or the starter relay. I got a brand new starter. This video helps very much. Thank you.
Sometimes my clutch pedal will not disengage the safety. I step on the clutch and press the clutch cancel switch on the dash and it starts right up. Maybe check that if you have it?
Thanks for the comment and stopping by. Next time I'll be sure to put out some Bear treats and Bearverages (see what I did there? I made beverages into Bearverages) I crack me up. Shine on
I know this video is a year old but God dang that is a great video I am a 27-year mechanic I am what you would call a Toyota specialist and believe it or not I am stumped on my first Toyota which is a 2000 4Runner V6 the customer was driving it never had any issues it was recently purchased from a used car dealer he says he took a lady friend out one night they got to where they were going left a few minutes later to go to somewhere else when they got there you shut it off and it has not ran since it has no spark or no power for fuel I have changed coil packs the coil igniter fuel pump in the customer is demanding I changed his ECU which I know it's not and the best of my knowledge your open circuit relay is the ECU itself. Anyway great video cuz I have done as much as I know and I have a few more things to check now after watching your video thanks very much👍
98 4Runner 335,438 miles ... just didn't start, will crank but sounds like have the same trouble ... no fuel .. will let you know what I come up with 👍 thanks to your video I will have something to try ......
Circuit opening relay located under driver's side panel next to hood release button.It can be checked like efi relay.pin 1& 2 continuity 3 & 4 none.To check with battery voltage applied 1 neg. 2 POS. 3& 4 should have continuity with meter.1&2 12 volts applied.
So my sons 2001 tacoma cranks but won’t start we checked the efi fuse along with all other fuses. No blown fuses. Sprayed some starting fluid and it wanted to start. So someone told me if it does start or wants to start then it’s a fuel issue if it doesn’t even try to start it’s an electrical issue. Does the pump make a sound when you turn on the key? Ordered the fuel pump but wanted to make sure I had everything else checked out. What do you think I should check before I dive into the fuel pump?
Great question that may help others too. You will NOT hear the fuel pump with the key on. The fuel pump is activated only when the key is all the way over to engage the starter. If the car starts, the computer knows this and continues to supply power to the pump. I explain this at the 2:45 mark. If the pump is working and the car starts, only when you turn the key off can you hear the pump run for a half second to charge the rail for the next start up . I hope that helps you and it does sound like you have a fuel pump issue. Good luck to you guys. 👍
@@ZombieDaveAZ ……thanks for your prompt response. Gona do the pump tomorrow. 🤞🏽hopefully that fixes the issue. I’ll keep the channel updates hopefully it helps someone else.
@@ZombieDaveAZ……the fuel pump was the culprit! Removed the bed first. Trying to avoid dropping a full tank of gas. Anyways we syphoned the gas out enough to be able to move it around after we completely dropped it. Put everything back together. Before we figured out it had to be the fuel pump we did remove and replaced the spark plugs. Just a mental note for you. So we removed and replaced the fuel pump. Put it all together and started right up. But now I’m getting a P0110 code saying the “IntakeAir Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit”. We replaced the MAF sensor thinking the was the problem and it didn’t fix it. So it revs up and down on its own while in park. Like an over accelerated vehicle. Any ideas what it can be. Everything points to the MAF but like I said it’s been replaced with a new one. I don’t know if spraying starting fluid to diagnose if it would try and start to rule a fuel pump had anything to do with airflow area. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your video, On my 1990 4runner, the circuit open relay is on the front passenger kick panel and just removing the glove box and the lower trim panel lets you access it. It is in a hole an the top of the panel and is on a bracket held by a 10mm bolt. All you will see is a connector that is plugged into the relay, but removing the 10mm bolt lets you pull the relay from the square hole and it is marked Circuit Open Relay. Perhaps your 2000 4runner is like mine? Your only going to see the connector from the bottom, so it will look like a bunch of wires, but removing the bolt lets the relay pull out and you will see that it is there. Good Luck.
Hey charles. here from Tennessee I’ve got a Michigan forerunner with similar issue I replaced the whole fuel system tank filler neck lines pump. it ran like a champ before but the tank was rusted out and leaking put it all back together...Now she will crank but won’t start this video is a major help thanks!!
Hi Charles. So are you saying that the wire harness plug in top of tank and fuel pump was your problem.? You comment sounds like my story and want clarification so I can proceed.
Had this problem with 97 tacoma. Replaced pump fuel relay switch would crank run for seconds then quit. Turned out to be the contacts in key switch. Would cut off fuel pump voltage.
I have an. 98 forerunner, 6 cylinder. It'll start and idle fine.But as soon as you try to put it in gear and move, it falls on its face.Crawls along sputtering backfiring. Already tried Mass air flow Sensor, fuel filter, PC v valve, I suspect the fuel pump. Has almost has 400000 on it. Original fuel pump. It's pumping, some gas obviously, but I guess it could be Not producing necessary pressure. Any ideas what could be causing this other than the fuel pump?
No other ideas from me and if I was a betting man I'd bet you are right. Fuel pump getting weak or the filter is clogging up and dropping the fuel pressure at the rail.
I highly recommend that you watch several videos on the tank removal and use your best judgement. Nobody gets it perfect. Good luck and it would be cool if you let others know if it worked out for you.
Amen brother on not being able to find anything you really search for on RUclips, and you know dang well there are tons of videos on almost any issue you'd run into!! You search 97 efi relay 3.4L and you get a bunch of 3.0 crap and 22re stuff, pisses a guy off big time!!
Ok so when u say rewired the fuel pump , which ones ? Is it the connector harness to the fuel pump? Or those open solder connectors on the fuel sending unit . Thanks in advance
I found my relay on my 99 it was buried up behind the fuse box in the driver's foot well I stuck my hand up there while it was running the relay was so hot it almost bunt my hand replaced it it was all rusty inside runs like a champ now
Hey Gary, that's a good question. When I read it I tried to do a little sleuthing on the subject. If it was a security issue (from what I'm reading) it would show a hard code that could be read from an OBDII scanner. Perhaps and this is just a guess but perhaps a super high dollar scan tool could reset that code. That would be the way to go I think. If it's a "hard" code, disconnecting the battery would not erase it. So basically I am no help to you on this. Perhaps a 4runner forum would help you to narrow this down. Best of luck my friend. 🤔
But what if you DIDNT have power (+12 volts) at the pump connector. And the pump connector 's ground wire (white/black stripe) was good?.....Then What?????...What Would You Do???
Hey Jack, how's it going? So my philosophy is to "eliminate all the possibilities of what it could be and then you are left with what it is be". So in my case or specifically a 2000 4runner there is the wiring itself. Check for continuity. Not an easy thing to do because of all the safety gizmos in place. The fuel pump is ONLY energized when the key is turned to far clockwise and the engine is attempting to start. The power to the fuel pump stops after you release the ignition key and allow it to go to the "run" position. If the car starts and runs then the ECU knows this and continually supplies power to the pump and you are on your merry way. Also in the same scenario when you arrive at your destination and turn the key to the off position, power is supplied to the fuel pump for an additional 1-2 seconds to keep fuel pressure at the fuel rail ready to go for the next start up . So just in this scenario for all this to work you would have to make sure that the fuel pump works, the wiring is good, no blown fuses, and the key is working. If all that is verified now we have to very that some safety item is not at fault. Inertia switch which shuts off the fuel if the vehicle is in an accident . Does the ECU even detect that the vehicle is try to start. Etc etc etc. Like is said in the video MY problem was the wiring from where it connects on top of the tank to internally reaching the pump. Only about an 8" section of wire . It took DAYS to find this and frustrating as all hell! So no matter what it's gonna take some time and keep an open mind. Sometimes you can spend half a day on something you think you know it is for sure and it's not. Then is back to the drawing board and when you run out of ideas, you come to RUclips and hope that someone has the "magic bullet" to solve your problem. 1 guy in the comments remember he was cleaning and vacuuming under the rear driver's side passenger seat and hit that plug connection and killed the power to his fuel pump completely. Yet nothing would have showed up because all was well except the connection . Electrical is not easy to understand let alone solve . I feel your pain but never give up, never give in and it will pay off in the end
@@ZombieDaveAZ ..i hear you bud::). I .Never was a Quitter, & I Never Ever Will Be ...No Matter What Life Throws At Me, ..whether it be vehicle problem solving , or just getting out of bed ..lol 🙂!!...Thanks for your Input ..Very, Very Much Appreciated, Take Care Stay Safe!!
hi ma so im having similar issue i changed the pump connected to the new pump works fine. i changed the EFA relay it seems like there's now power getting to the connector on top of the tank wondering to do next
Watch the video again for what color wire it is. You can use a test light to check for voltage. It will ONLY light up for the time that the key is turned all the way over to the start position about 2 seconds after you release the key from start to run. My problem was the 4 inches of wiring from the connection on top of the tank down to the fuel pump itself. You can only access that section of wiring by removing the tank and taking out the fuel pump. I had to do it 2 times by myself before I found the problem. It is a huge pain in the ass but it has to be checked to either verify that it IS the problem or NOT the problem. Good luck and stay safe my friend. 👍😷
@@ZombieDaveAZI made an access door so it’s easier to mess with . I’m stil having trouble with mine . So the blue and orange wire that comes off of the pigtail is supposed to be the one with power well, how come when I test the blue and orange wire and and then the black and white wire next to it for some reason, I’m getting power readings out of the black and white but not the blue and orange … crank no start still . I’m a month behind on my rent because I can’t work because that freaking truck won’t fucking start.help me you tube !!!….😢
@paulpeaked7286 hey Paul the blue orange wire sends power to the pump on start up and runs for about 1 to 2 seconds on shut down to put pressure to the rail. After the car starts the computer recognizes the engine is running and power now goes to another wire for continuous running operation. Heres the shitty part about diagnosing. Sometimes you get tunnel vision and so focused on what you think is the problem that you can overlook a subtle clue that is telling you that the problem is something else. It frustrating as hell but try to take all the info you have gathered so far to narrow you search and next course of action. Keep in mind that you eliminate all the possibilities of what it could be, eventually you will be left with wheat the problem actually is. I feel your frustration brother, really I do.
I got the same problem with 4runner 98 crank but won't star, uncheck ingene light a at all I replace the ignition coil (ignition spark) no luck any one out there that ca give somo advice
I changed, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, injectors, wires, coils, battery, plugs throttle position sensor, and drained every drop of gas out,using new fuel pump, and the tank was on the ground, still won't start, no codes coming up, I'm about to put a rag in the gas tank and light it up,
I gotta customer car that's doing that same shit I've already changed the hat assembly the wires the plug under the dash they run into key switch neutral safety switch still haven't found the open circuit relay will today as there's nothing else to do except tell him he needs a new truck and to take this one to the scrap yard
@@richieharvey888 I have also done everything except that I order an open circuit relay imma try it first if nothing then we'll it's ecm and everything else was for nothing
Going thru the same problem. One time it works fine then the next time it wont start. But I cant find any broken wires inside the tank. They all look good. Any ideas? Thanks
Hey Tara. One guy commented that his problem came shortly after cleaning his 4runner. The plug that connects to the tank under the carpet behind the driver's side rear passenger seat. I would start there.
Weve dropped the tank twice to pull the pump to check the wires. Was perfect for 50 miles while running around, then wouldnt start up. I've been driving and working on Toyotas for over 30 yrs, this has me stumped...
@@taragreulich615 so it sounds like if you dropped the tank twice and you did manage to get it working, you may have jostled something and it worked. Make sure you are not overlooking something like a loose ground wire to the frame or back to the fuse box. If it worked and then didn't, then worked again and then didn't, it's going to be a connection somewhere. It could not even be in the tank at all. Under a rocker panel, up in the engine bay. Electrical is tough but don't give up. Mine took 2 days to solve.
You have a different issue my friend. Bad fuel pump or wiring from the pump will not affect the ability for the engine to crank. You are going to isolate and exclude certain things. My 4runner is an sr5 with manual transmission. Your problem could be as simple as a neutral safety switch. If the car thinks it's in gear, it wouldn't allow the engine to turn over. Is the ignition switch itself not working correctly? I'm afraid you have more work to do my friend.
Yes sir I got a question I got a 99 Toyota same problem the blue Wireless off the fuel pump is not getting no it ain't hot and answer and that the relay under the dash it's not hot so I guess the one idiot ignition it ain't hot so I don't know what to do
I don't know. Why did you change the fuel pump in the first place? Did you replace just the pump or the whole tank assembly? Did you check all the fuses before deciding to put in the new fuel pump? How old is the car? Have you looked online to see if others with your make and model are having the same issues? You can ask what else could be wrong but there are just too many possible answers my friend. I would need much more in depth diagnosis to really be of any help. That's the truth.
@@onejanjo9060 I'm not familiar with your exact model BUT if you had to disconnect the fuel lines under the vehicle in order to drop the tank it easy to get those mixed up during installation. I would cycle the key a few times and then check the fuel pressure up at the rail. IE where the fuel is before it goes to the injectors. You need to verify that the fuel is making it's way that far up the system.
Have same trouble just changed fuel pump an still no gas flow. 2001. The old pump was still good. Idk. But thanksnew wires came with the pump but doest shoot out gas
@@ZombieDaveAZ thank you friend im trying to work it out as I can but If I can't I will call on you you don't know how much I appreciate you replying back to me. Thank you for being there
Awesome video! Same issue with mine. Changed the fuel pump and filter still nothing. I am not getting any power to the pump. It's blowing my 20amp fuse under the hood. My guess I have a bad ground? Any issues on how to handle the electrical side?
If it's blowing the fuse it is grounding out somewhere for sure. There was a guy in the comments that had the same problem as us. He then remembered when he cleaned his 4runner seeing the plug under the rear seat behind the driver and he had messed that up using a vacuum hose from the car wash. Yes, no ,maybe? Might be worth a look. Good luck.
@@ZombieDaveAZ Ok everyone, I found the fix. It turns out it was the Idle Control Valve causing a short and burning up the EFI fuse. I disconnected the sensor and starts up fine. Hopefully this can help people in the future if they encounter this similar issue!
Replaced the wiring in the tank. Check your wires under the rear seat and make sure your connection is good. Mine was not. I spliced wire to the new fuel pump using the old connector. Watch the video again and you'll hear what I did.
my 2000 4 runner has 430,000 miles, my ride was jacked up cutting off at about 56-65 mph for no reason, I replaced a bunch of shit my open circuit relay was not where toyota shows it to be! I was directly beneath the fuse box on the driver side fire wall it does not look like the relays that you see under the hood, a 15 dollar part that I got from advanced auto parts a 4 pin cheap relay toyota wants to charge me 159 for. Toyota gave me a print out showing it on the passenger side fire wall, it took me 3 days to find the actual location on google. all you have to do is discharge all electricity in the computer to clear codes replace the relay, put the batter make online and start it. Its running great again.
@@ZombieDaveAZ it’s a 1/3 in by 1 inch relay right at the bottom of the white plastic piece that houses your fuses slightly to the bottom right about 3 inches below your fuses!
It was in my particular case. So after eliminating everything that it COULD be, I was left with what it actually was. I makes you nuts until you find it.
I have the exact same problem with my 96 I also have a 2000 that runs great but I’m trying to fix the 96 has same motor and everything. What ended up being the issue? I have to know
Dude ive been searching for easily 2 hours now and i cant find the wire anywhere that you said was your issue and is what i believe to be my issue could you maybe get me a link or something please and thankyou!
Start at 05:38 and watch for about 4 minutes. My problem was the wire inside the tank going from the the connector on top down to the fuel pump. I replaced that wire and soldered the connections. Another guy in the comment was cleaning under the seat of his 4runner and loosened the connection on top of the tank. His was an easy fix once he found it. I don't know your exact problem and what stage of disassembly you are at.
@@ZombieDaveAZ ive got the wire out i worded my comment poorly, i meant that i havent been able to find a replacemnt wire with both of the connectors attached on the internet, so i was trying to ask how you rigged yours up or if you just bought a new one and if so could you send me the link.
@@culpzzz I did not find NEW connectors. I spliced the new wire in to the old connectors and then tested it before I put the tank back in. I show that in the video. The test not the soldering. That I did on a table far away from the fuel tank.
My 2000 2.7 4runner starts great and runs for about 4 minutes then misses and dies. 2 years in the garage now. Any ideas? Sorry to bug you but you are a smart guy.
Thanks for the compliment. 👍 So if this was my problem I would rule out the fuel pump. Without that it would not fire. I would replace the fuel filter and then check the pressure at the fuel rail. There are cheap testers at harbor freight. Do I have any check engine lights? Does the light illuminate when the key is in the run position? Are there any codes stored? When was the last time fuel injectors were cleaned or replaced. Did my brother in law help me work on this and it hasn't been right since? 😂 Other than the brother in law I would check the relatively easy stuff first before throwing money at the problem. Let me know what's happening and I will try to help. You can also reach me at zombiedaveaz@gmail.com. 👍 hang in there.
I know what a relay is but ive never heard of an OPEN CIRCUIT relay. All relays open and close a circuit. They are just relays. BTW, did you ever find it? anyway as I was watching your vid I kept saying to myself you got a bad ignition switch. The fuel pump shouldn't loose power after you let go of the key.
"The function of the COR (Circuit Open Relay) is to switch power to the fuel pump when the engine is running or being started. Having power to the fuel pump only when the engine is being started or is running is a safety feature. " I just googled this. But I can help you understand a little better . Take your left hand and have your thumb pointed up and your fingers extended. Your thumb is key off. Your pointer finger is run position. You middle finger is start position. The car MUST be running and be told by the ECU that the engine is running in order to put power to the fuel pump relay. ( That's your pointer finger) your middle finger will activate the fuel pump plus 2 seconds after the key goes back to run position with no start. If the car starts then only the fuel pump relay is running and will continue to do so until the car is turned off. Why the 2 second delay in the shutoff after an attempted start? It's to energize and keep fuel pressure at the rail for the next start attempt. I didn't know any of this until I researched the hell out of it. Thanks for the comment. 👍🍺
So I jumped it out from the tank like you did and it shot gas out of the fuel lines. Put everything back together and it started then died after 3 seconds. Do you think it’s the wiring in the tank?
@@ZombieDaveAZ its a pisser for sure, all the fuses are good and the car sat for a year then it tried to start but kept dying out.. time to drop that dang tank lol :D Crazy Diamond you need a 'Thanks' button on your page brother.. ! you earned it ...
To anyone reading my reply comment to this guy BeADad. Do NOT Tell him anything!!!! Here's why. I spent HOURS trying to solve this particular problem. You don't have to subscribe to my channel, I don't monetize. It's MY findings being shared in order to help others. This guy has the balls to ask one of you to share what you learned by watching the video because he can't take the time. This is a huge problem for tik Tok scrollers. If you don't catch their attention in 10 seconds they move on. Lol 😂 Now, because I didn't like the the way he phrased his comment and if you guys support me he will be FORCED to watch the video. Then maybe he will solve his car problem or maybe he won't. I personally don't give a F--K! This is the epitome of someone trying to look over your shoulder to get the answers during a test. You did all the work and this clown just wants the answers! That's BullSh!t!! Whew I feel better. Now let's see what this keyboard warrior has to say. I'm sure it will be a winner. Educate yourself and be a better person. Don't help this guy. I actually do feel better. 😁
Now it won't start. I'm not hearing the pump come on. I'm testing the pump through the floorboard today. Also going to try to jump the COR. I'm not sure how to test it but I saw how you can jump it. I'm just wondering if I'm on the right track. If it's the pump I have to cut an access.
@@ZombieDaveAZ yeah we almost had to today because our lines wouldn't break free even with the proper wrench. My boy ended up unhooking it all from the front of the vehicle and feeding all the lines out through the floor when we did pull the pump. But she's up and running again with new pump installed.
You didn't show the car running! You explained your excellent diagnostics several times. Without getting to the point, GET TO THE POINT!!! DID YOU FIX IT AND SHOW THE CAR RUNNING! DAH
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
My 1999 4runner at some point this week showed signs of not wanting to start properly. It stuttered so i stepped on gas pedal to maintain gas flowed it worked, i thought maybe since it was cold it was battery. Didn't worry about until today. Washed my truck cleaned it inside out brushed underneath seats. Go to start it... Nothing, sputtered dumfounded bought new battery, new throttle body hose, cleaned MAF sensor electric connection, checked all fuses including efi. Unplugged fuel line from filter back put in key to ignition without start to see if fuel pump would send pressurized fuel. It did not. I assumed it was fuel pump.😞 Then i saw your vid👀 on the wire harness underneath seat ( remember i was brushing carpets unaware of wiring underneath) and it clicked 🕵i must have touched the wire and harness moved it slightly. I removed harness check it was receiving power. Sprayed connection with electric cleaner. Go start it up And right away it start running like a Champ. Thanks for your video my issues was the harness underneath seat. Good Karma unto you, my good man. 😁
You, my friend, are the reason I make these long winded videos. It was my pleasure to be of help to you. Stay safe 🍺😷👍
@@ZombieDaveAZ likewise 👍
Your comment helped fix my problem! I had been been work on my fuel tank most of the day (for problems not related to getting fuel ) I put everything back together and now it would start. So after pulling the tank again, testing the fuel pump seeing that it is working, putting it all back together still no luck. After reading your comment I remembered that I had put pressure on the plug when taking things apart, my issue was the ground wire in the plug not coming in contact with the pin. PS this fuel pump is silent.
Frustrating when you are looking for the problem but damn it feels good when you find it. Congrats my friend. Stay safe 🍺😷👍
@@2EZEverything did you measure the resistance by any chance on fuel pump? pins 4 and 5, I get 11ohms and technically they say between 3 and 4 or replace.. no power either.. thanks James V. I will check that for sure :D ALL you guys are awEsome
Good job on the diagnosis! You're so right about people that don't know how and just start throwing parts at it until something happens.
That's pretty frustrating they'd think to give you that access port to the top of the tank, but not design it to where you can pull the pump through it.
Lmao I've done everything but throw parts at it I'm doing that now starting to think it's the ecu
2001 4,runner idle want throttle
Wow, great diagnosis and lessons! My 2000 4Runner will start 4 out of 5 times. But when it does not start it will turn over several times and have a miss at the end. Then on the next try it starts right up. New fuel pump and starter in which I didn't mind rep[lacing because of age and miles. After your troubleshooting (great skills by the way!) I'm starting to think it something to do with that open relay or something in the key switch. It's like it's not getting fuel on the time it doesn't crank.
Same with my 2000 but he won’t even start up just cranks without cranking over sounds like it’s sucking in a lot of air too car just quit on me while driving it figured fuel pump went out but I’m not the richest so trying to see if it’s something else or fixable with replacing yet
@@WildthangTZS So mine ended up being the front O2 sensor (I have Cali emissions)
A bad O2 sensor would trigger the check engine light not shut the car down while driving. That's been my experience.
@@ZombieDaveAZThats what I thought but not in my case. I had a bung welded in (for an air/fuel gauge) just above the forward O2 and they damaged the nose of my O2. It may have eventually triggered a CEL but once it cranked it ran fine. Your symptoms are a little different than what I was experiencing tho.
@@scraigjohnson I appreciate the clarification . Thanks for taking the time 👍
I have 2003 Tacoma 3.4 L my problem is it will fire up 1st start I'll turn it off and it just keeps turning no start, I replaced the fuel filter after I checked the Fuel Regulator which I believe is good, checked the relays it does the click when key is turned to start, swapped them with another relay, so I'm thinking its the pump but I'd like to test it without dropping the tank, any suggestions? this video is 5 years old but maybe you look at your comments Thanks good video!!
You can check the pressure at the fuel rail where the injectors are. Not sure what the psi should be. Perhaps a Toyota forum will have guys with the same problem. I hope that helps a little. Good luck.
If you were near me I would hug you and shake your hand. Was washing my truck (99 limited) then it would not crank. Thought it was ultimately out of timing. Well I thought it was the fuel pump as I have 583k miles on her. I hear no pump come on and no voltage really when I put the DMM on it. I'm going to replace the pump anyways and rewire the dang thang. You are the best best best!!! I can't wait to leave work to work on this now!!!!!! Keep up the good work.
I hope you get her fixed. 👍🍺
Thank you for your video. It’s the best of all the videos I’ve seen. I really couldn’t find this video is it came up on my feed. I have a no start no crank condition on my on my 98 Toyota 4 x 4 manual. It was running fine before I took out the aftermarket alarm system, which I felt like I had reattached everything perfectly. It was draining the battery now my truck doesn’t start doesn’t crank not the battery or the starter relay. I got a brand new starter. This video helps very much. Thank you.
I still haven’t figured it out but I will
I got a power probe on order. It’s a total nightmare. Thanks again
It’s frustrating it’s horrible. Or as I like to say. Brutal!
Sometimes my clutch pedal will not disengage the safety. I step on the clutch and press the clutch cancel switch on the dash and it starts right up. Maybe check that if you have it?
I have. No worries. It starts when I pop the clutch. So weird
Great video and even better methodology
Thanks for the comment and stopping by. Next time I'll be sure to put out some Bear treats and Bearverages (see what I did there? I made beverages into Bearverages) I crack me up. Shine on
I know this video is a year old but God dang that is a great video I am a 27-year mechanic I am what you would call a Toyota specialist and believe it or not I am stumped on my first Toyota which is a 2000 4Runner V6 the customer was driving it never had any issues it was recently purchased from a used car dealer he says he took a lady friend out one night they got to where they were going left a few minutes later to go to somewhere else when they got there you shut it off and it has not ran since it has no spark or no power for fuel I have changed coil packs the coil igniter fuel pump in the customer is demanding I changed his ECU which I know it's not and the best of my knowledge your open circuit relay is the ECU itself. Anyway great video cuz I have done as much as I know and I have a few more things to check now after watching your video thanks very much👍
what was your result Brian? wire in the tank?
So did it start?
Thanks for the video its exactly what was happening to my 4runner i was going crazy you save me money again thanks 👍
98 4Runner 335,438 miles ... just didn't start, will crank but sounds like have the same trouble ... no fuel .. will let you know what I come up with 👍 thanks to your video I will have something to try ......
Did you figure out the problem with your 98 ?
My 98 with 280K shut off on me at a red light and now it won’t crank over. No check engine lights ever .
Circuit opening relay located under driver's side panel next to hood release button.It can be checked like efi relay.pin 1& 2 continuity 3 & 4 none.To check with battery voltage applied 1 neg. 2 POS. 3& 4 should have continuity with meter.1&2 12 volts applied.
this is the info we all needed.. Thanks brother!
You explained it where I understand, thank you for that
So my sons 2001 tacoma cranks but won’t start we checked the efi fuse along with all other fuses. No blown fuses. Sprayed some starting fluid and it wanted to start. So someone told me if it does start or wants to start then it’s a fuel issue if it doesn’t even try to start it’s an electrical issue. Does the pump make a sound when you turn on the key? Ordered the fuel pump but wanted to make sure I had everything else checked out. What do you think I should check before I dive into the fuel pump?
Great question that may help others too. You will NOT hear the fuel pump with the key on. The fuel pump is activated only when the key is all the way over to engage the starter. If the car starts, the computer knows this and continues to supply power to the pump. I explain this at the 2:45 mark. If the pump is working and the car starts, only when you turn the key off can you hear the pump run for a half second to charge the rail for the next start up . I hope that helps you and it does sound like you have a fuel pump issue. Good luck to you guys. 👍
@@ZombieDaveAZ ……thanks for your prompt response. Gona do the pump tomorrow. 🤞🏽hopefully that fixes the issue. I’ll keep the channel updates hopefully it helps someone else.
@@ZombieDaveAZ……the fuel pump was the culprit! Removed the bed first. Trying to avoid dropping a full tank of gas. Anyways we syphoned the gas out enough to be able to move it around after we completely dropped it. Put everything back together. Before we figured out it had to be the fuel pump we did remove and replaced the spark plugs. Just a mental note for you. So we removed and replaced the fuel pump. Put it all together and started right up. But now I’m getting a P0110 code saying the “IntakeAir Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit”. We replaced the MAF sensor thinking the was the problem and it didn’t fix it. So it revs up and down on its own while in park. Like an over accelerated vehicle. Any ideas what it can be. Everything points to the MAF but like I said it’s been replaced with a new one. I don’t know if spraying starting fluid to diagnose if it would try and start to rule a fuel pump had anything to do with airflow area. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I feel your pain. Really I do.
Thanks for your video, On my 1990 4runner, the circuit open relay is on the front passenger kick panel and just removing the glove box and the lower trim panel lets you access it. It is in a hole an the top of the panel and is on a bracket held by a 10mm bolt. All you will see is a connector that is plugged into the relay, but removing the 10mm bolt lets you pull the relay from the square hole and it is marked Circuit Open Relay. Perhaps your 2000 4runner is like mine? Your only going to see the connector from the bottom, so it will look like a bunch of wires, but removing the bolt lets the relay pull out and you will see that it is there. Good Luck.
Hey charles. here from Tennessee I’ve got a Michigan forerunner with similar issue I replaced the whole fuel system tank filler neck lines pump. it ran like a champ before but the tank was rusted out and leaking put it all back together...Now she will crank but won’t start this video is a major help thanks!!
Hi Charles. So are you saying that the wire harness plug in top of tank and fuel pump was your problem.?
You comment sounds like my story and want clarification so I can proceed.
@@mikejok479 that ended up being the problem... just clean it well and check wires! 👍🏻
Have the same problem. My sons 2000 4runner won't start. Not getting fuel. Gonna change the pump tomorrow
Had this problem with 97 tacoma. Replaced pump fuel relay switch would crank run for seconds then quit. Turned out to be the contacts in key switch. Would cut off fuel pump voltage.
Maddening as hell until you find the problem then it's like "I earned myself a man beverage today!". Thanks for commenting my friend. Stay safe. 😷🍺👍
TELL ME MORE!!!????
On my 2001 tacoma 5vzfe the open circuit relay is hanging off the bottom right of the interior fuse junction box.
Thanks for making me a star again by the way it was 107 out there and you were on blacktop good fix good video
YOU made the day! Thanks for helping me out of a crappy situation. Back to work today.
Isnt the COR that first relay you looked at on the interior fusebox
Dude you are a life saver
So what did you do to get it started?
I have an.
98 forerunner, 6 cylinder.
It'll start and idle fine.But as soon as you try to put it in gear and move, it falls on its face.Crawls along sputtering backfiring.
Already tried
Mass air flow Sensor, fuel filter, PC v valve, I suspect the fuel pump. Has almost has 400000 on it.
Original fuel pump.
It's pumping, some gas obviously, but I guess it could be
Not producing necessary pressure.
Any ideas what could be causing this other than the fuel pump?
No other ideas from me and if I was a betting man I'd bet you are right. Fuel pump getting weak or the filter is clogging up and dropping the fuel pressure at the rail.
@@ZombieDaveAZ thank you.That's next on the list.
I highly recommend that you watch several videos on the tank removal and use your best judgement. Nobody gets it perfect. Good luck and it would be cool if you let others know if it worked out for you.
@@ZombieDaveAZ will do.
Amen brother on not being able to find anything you really search for on RUclips, and you know dang well there are tons of videos on almost any issue you'd run into!! You search 97 efi relay 3.4L and you get a bunch of 3.0 crap and 22re stuff, pisses a guy off big time!!
That was the biggest motivation for this video. Thanks for stopping by.
I am having the same type of problem I took mine to the shop a few days before I watched this video.
i bet this is my problem...amazing sleuthing
Damm I've change the fuel pump and the wire harness pump inside the tank w same issues :(
Yeah good job! I have very similar problem same motor but in prado 1998 might even be exactly the same thanks a million
You did find the circuit opening relay, you touched it front of fuse box under dash
Then that would be a classic case of can't find the forest thru the trees then. Lol. I'll have to go back and look. Still driving that 4runner.👍
Ok so when u say rewired the fuel pump , which ones ? Is it the connector harness to the fuel pump? Or those open solder connectors on the fuel sending unit . Thanks in advance
@@paulpeaked7286 connector harness.
@@ZombieDaveAZconnector harness to fuel pump , on the outside of unit or inside
@@paulpeaked7286 inside from the top of the assembly at the canon plug down to the pump. I cut and soldered in the wiring for the new pump
Dave, I'm having a somewhat similar issue, is there anyway I can message you directly?
@@Auce6789 email me at zombiedaveaz@gmail.com we can swap phone #s and either talk or text. 👍
@@ZombieDaveAZ thank you so much dave and thank you.
I found my relay on my 99 it was buried up behind the fuse box in the driver's foot well I stuck my hand up there while it was running the relay was so hot it almost bunt my hand replaced it it was all rusty inside runs like a champ now
Circuit opening relay is under dash to the left , u pointed it out already .
@@paulpeaked7286 you would think that it would be marked inside a cover or someplace obvious. I appreciate your input brother.
I’ve done everything you did to yours and mine still won’t start is the something in the security system that could disable the fuel pump
Hey Gary, that's a good question. When I read it I tried to do a little sleuthing on the subject. If it was a security issue (from what I'm reading) it would show a hard code that could be read from an OBDII scanner. Perhaps and this is just a guess but perhaps a super high dollar scan tool could reset that code. That would be the way to go I think. If it's a "hard" code, disconnecting the battery would not erase it. So basically I am no help to you on this. Perhaps a 4runner forum would help you to narrow this down. Best of luck my friend. 🤔
But what if you DIDNT have power (+12 volts) at the pump connector. And the pump connector 's ground wire (white/black stripe) was good?.....Then What?????...What Would You Do???
Hey Jack, how's it going?
So my philosophy is to "eliminate all the possibilities of what it could be and then you are left with what it is be". So in my case or specifically a 2000 4runner there is the wiring itself. Check for continuity. Not an easy thing to do because of all the safety gizmos in place. The fuel pump is ONLY energized when the key is turned to far clockwise and the engine is attempting to start. The power to the fuel pump stops after you release the ignition key and allow it to go to the "run" position. If the car starts and runs then the ECU knows this and continually supplies power to the pump and you are on your merry way. Also in the same scenario when you arrive at your destination and turn the key to the off position, power is supplied to the fuel pump for an additional 1-2 seconds to keep fuel pressure at the fuel rail ready to go for the next start up . So just in this scenario for all this to work you would have to make sure that the fuel pump works, the wiring is good, no blown fuses, and the key is working. If all that is verified now we have to very that some safety item is not at fault. Inertia switch which shuts off the fuel if the vehicle is in an accident . Does the ECU even detect that the vehicle is try to start. Etc etc etc. Like is said in the video MY problem was the wiring from where it connects on top of the tank to internally reaching the pump. Only about an 8" section of wire . It took DAYS to find this and frustrating as all hell! So no matter what it's gonna take some time and keep an open mind. Sometimes you can spend half a day on something you think you know it is for sure and it's not. Then is back to the drawing board and when you run out of ideas, you come to RUclips and hope that someone has the "magic bullet" to solve your problem. 1 guy in the comments remember he was cleaning and vacuuming under the rear driver's side passenger seat and hit that plug connection and killed the power to his fuel pump completely. Yet nothing would have showed up because all was well except the connection . Electrical is not easy to understand let alone solve . I feel your pain but never give up, never give in and it will pay off in the end
@@ZombieDaveAZ ..i hear you bud::). I .Never was a Quitter, & I Never Ever Will Be ...No Matter What Life Throws At Me, ..whether it be vehicle problem solving , or just getting out of bed ..lol 🙂!!...Thanks for your Input ..Very, Very Much Appreciated, Take Care Stay Safe!!
@@budakota you too, stay safe and the door is always open for questions. If I can help I gladly will do that. Best of luck to you my friend. ,👍🍺
Thank you sir. For all that valuable information!
Hopefully it helped you in some small way
hi ma so im having similar issue i changed the pump connected to the new pump works fine. i changed the EFA relay it seems like there's now power getting to the connector on top of the tank wondering to do next
Watch the video again for what color wire it is. You can use a test light to check for voltage. It will ONLY light up for the time that the key is turned all the way over to the start position about 2 seconds after you release the key from start to run. My problem was the 4 inches of wiring from the connection on top of the tank down to the fuel pump itself. You can only access that section of wiring by removing the tank and taking out the fuel pump. I had to do it 2 times by myself before I found the problem. It is a huge pain in the ass but it has to be checked to either verify that it IS the problem or NOT the problem. Good luck and stay safe my friend. 👍😷
@@ZombieDaveAZI made an access door so it’s easier to mess with . I’m stil having trouble with mine . So the blue and orange wire that comes off of the pigtail is supposed to be the one with power well, how come when I test the blue and orange wire and and then the black and white wire next to it for some reason, I’m getting power readings out of the black and white but not the blue and orange … crank no start still . I’m a month behind on my rent because I can’t work because that freaking truck won’t fucking start.help me you tube !!!….😢
@paulpeaked7286 hey Paul the blue orange wire sends power to the pump on start up and runs for about 1 to 2 seconds on shut down to put pressure to the rail. After the car starts the computer recognizes the engine is running and power now goes to another wire for continuous running operation. Heres the shitty part about diagnosing. Sometimes you get tunnel vision and so focused on what you think is the problem that you can overlook a subtle clue that is telling you that the problem is something else. It frustrating as hell but try to take all the info you have gathered so far to narrow you search and next course of action. Keep in mind that you eliminate all the possibilities of what it could be, eventually you will be left with wheat the problem actually is. I feel your frustration brother, really I do.
I got the same problem with 4runner 98 crank but won't star, uncheck ingene light a at all I replace the ignition coil (ignition spark) no luck any one out there that ca give somo advice
Did the motor ever run for you? Has it been in accident or bumped really hard?
I changed, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, injectors, wires, coils, battery, plugs throttle position sensor, and drained every drop of gas out,using new fuel pump, and the tank was on the ground, still won't start, no codes coming up, I'm about to put a rag in the gas tank and light it up,
I gotta customer car that's doing that same shit I've already changed the hat assembly the wires the plug under the dash they run into key switch neutral safety switch still haven't found the open circuit relay will today as there's nothing else to do except tell him he needs a new truck and to take this one to the scrap yard
I'm changing the computer, it's my luck, I never had any
@@richieharvey888 I have also done everything except that I order an open circuit relay imma try it first if nothing then we'll it's ecm and everything else was for nothing
thanks for going thru that. learned a lot
Still got it, still my daily driver.
Going thru the same problem. One time it works fine then the next time it wont start. But I cant find any broken wires inside the tank. They all look good. Any ideas? Thanks
Hey Tara. One guy commented that his problem came shortly after cleaning his 4runner. The plug that connects to the tank under the carpet behind the driver's side rear passenger seat. I would start there.
Weve dropped the tank twice to pull the pump to check the wires. Was perfect for 50 miles while running around, then wouldnt start up. I've been driving and working on Toyotas for over 30 yrs, this has me stumped...
@@taragreulich615 so it sounds like if you dropped the tank twice and you did manage to get it working, you may have jostled something and it worked. Make sure you are not overlooking something like a loose ground wire to the frame or back to the fuse box. If it worked and then didn't, then worked again and then didn't, it's going to be a connection somewhere. It could not even be in the tank at all. Under a rocker panel, up in the engine bay. Electrical is tough but don't give up. Mine took 2 days to solve.
I have a similar issue. But my car does not crank. I haven’t tried the fuel pump. Did the vehicle did not crank?
I checked all the fuses and i switched the motherboard
You have a different issue my friend. Bad fuel pump or wiring from the pump will not affect the ability for the engine to crank. You are going to isolate and exclude certain things. My 4runner is an sr5 with manual transmission. Your problem could be as simple as a neutral safety switch. If the car thinks it's in gear, it wouldn't allow the engine to turn over. Is the ignition switch itself not working correctly? I'm afraid you have more work to do my friend.
Yes sir I got a question I got a 99 Toyota same problem the blue Wireless off the fuel pump is not getting no it ain't hot and answer and that the relay under the dash it's not hot so I guess the one idiot ignition it ain't hot so I don't know what to do
I have changed the fuel pump for toyata surf it's now not starting what might be the problem
I don't know. Why did you change the fuel pump in the first place? Did you replace just the pump or the whole tank assembly? Did you check all the fuses before deciding to put in the new fuel pump? How old is the car? Have you looked online to see if others with your make and model are having the same issues? You can ask what else could be wrong but there are just too many possible answers my friend. I would need much more in depth diagnosis to really be of any help. That's the truth.
I only replaced the pump and the filter the old pump was not running now the new one is running but it's only crank but not starting
@@onejanjo9060 I'm not familiar with your exact model BUT if you had to disconnect the fuel lines under the vehicle in order to drop the tank it easy to get those mixed up during installation. I would cycle the key a few times and then check the fuel pressure up at the rail. IE where the fuel is before it goes to the injectors. You need to verify that the fuel is making it's way that far up the system.
2000 model
Have same trouble just changed fuel pump an still no gas flow. 2001. The old pump was still good. Idk. But thanksnew wires came with the pump but doest shoot out gas
Is there a question in there somewhere Tim? I can try to help if you are specific. 👍
@@ZombieDaveAZ thank you friend im trying to work it out as I can but If I can't I will call on you you don't know how much I appreciate you replying back to me. Thank you for being there
@@timmynormand4818 I m wishing you the best of luck
@@ZombieDaveAZ your a great guy thanks. IF I DONT FIGURE It out I just might need your expertise im just an old man trying my best lol
Awesome video!
Same issue with mine. Changed the fuel pump and filter still nothing. I am not getting any power to the pump. It's blowing my 20amp fuse under the hood. My guess I have a bad ground? Any issues on how to handle the electrical side?
If it's blowing the fuse it is grounding out somewhere for sure. There was a guy in the comments that had the same problem as us. He then remembered when he cleaned his 4runner seeing the plug under the rear seat behind the driver and he had messed that up using a vacuum hose from the car wash. Yes, no ,maybe? Might be worth a look. Good luck.
@@ZombieDaveAZ Ok everyone, I found the fix.
It turns out it was the Idle Control Valve causing a short and burning up the EFI fuse. I disconnected the sensor and starts up fine.
Hopefully this can help people in the future if they encounter this similar issue!
@@osc6389icv?I need more input
I only find five volts at pump. 2002 testing at 3 prong
Im having same exact thing happen and ive done exactly what you are doing. But what did u do
Replaced the wiring in the tank. Check your wires under the rear seat and make sure your connection is good. Mine was not. I spliced wire to the new fuel pump using the old connector. Watch the video again and you'll hear what I did.
Thanks very much!!!! I'm copy,!!!
I have the same problem with my 1998 4 runner and how exactly did you fix this problem
my 2000 4 runner has 430,000 miles, my ride was jacked up cutting off at about 56-65 mph for no reason, I replaced a bunch of shit my open circuit relay was not where toyota shows it to be! I was directly beneath the fuse box on the driver side fire wall it does not look like the relays that you see under the hood, a 15 dollar part that I got from advanced auto parts a 4 pin cheap relay toyota wants to charge me 159 for. Toyota gave me a print out showing it on the passenger side fire wall, it took me 3 days to find the actual location on google. all you have to do is discharge all electricity in the computer to clear codes replace the relay, put the batter make online and start it. Its running great again.
I never found mine. Glad you got yours up and running again.
@@ZombieDaveAZ it’s a 1/3 in by 1 inch relay right at the bottom of the white plastic piece that houses your fuses slightly to the bottom right about 3 inches below your fuses!
So its simply a short in wiring within the tank?
It was in my particular case. So after eliminating everything that it COULD be, I was left with what it actually was. I makes you nuts until you find it.
I have the exact same problem with my 96 I also have a 2000 that runs great but I’m trying to fix the 96 has same motor and everything. What ended up being the issue? I have to know
Tommy I said it plain as day in the video
@@ZombieDaveAZ so just the wiring in the fuel pump
Ok my bad I will watch again
The wiring in the harness that goes down to the pump
its a relay on the fuse box inside the 4runner for that...
Dude ive been searching for easily 2 hours now and i cant find the wire anywhere that you said was your issue and is what i believe to be my issue could you maybe get me a link or something please and thankyou!
Start at 05:38 and watch for about 4 minutes. My problem was the wire inside the tank going from the the connector on top down to the fuel pump. I replaced that wire and soldered the connections. Another guy in the comment was cleaning under the seat of his 4runner and loosened the connection on top of the tank. His was an easy fix once he found it. I don't know your exact problem and what stage of disassembly you are at.
@@ZombieDaveAZ ive got the wire out i worded my comment poorly, i meant that i havent been able to find a replacemnt wire with both of the connectors attached on the internet, so i was trying to ask how you rigged yours up or if you just bought a new one and if so could you send me the link.
@@culpzzz I did not find NEW connectors. I spliced the new wire in to the old connectors and then tested it before I put the tank back in. I show that in the video. The test not the soldering. That I did on a table far away from the fuel tank.
My 2000 2.7 4runner starts great and runs for about 4 minutes then misses and dies. 2 years in the garage now. Any ideas? Sorry to bug you but you are a smart guy.
Thanks for the compliment. 👍 So if this was my problem I would rule out the fuel pump. Without that it would not fire. I would replace the fuel filter and then check the pressure at the fuel rail. There are cheap testers at harbor freight. Do I have any check engine lights? Does the light illuminate when the key is in the run position? Are there any codes stored? When was the last time fuel injectors were cleaned or replaced. Did my brother in law help me work on this and it hasn't been right since? 😂 Other than the brother in law I would check the relatively easy stuff first before throwing money at the problem. Let me know what's happening and I will try to help. You can also reach me at zombiedaveaz@gmail.com. 👍 hang in there.
@@ZombieDaveAZ Thank you so much. I will update you.
I'm not getting power to my fuel pump on my 2002 Toyota Tacoma wondering if you can help can't find no relay for it
Did you watch the entire video? No skipping. I know I talk alot but you may have missed something.
@@ZombieDaveAZ got it thanks it was my plug on gas tank
Can you help give me some hints
Sure Jose, email me zombiedaveaz@gmail.com and put 4runner in the subject.
I know what a relay is but ive never heard of an OPEN CIRCUIT relay.
All relays open and close a circuit. They are just relays. BTW, did you ever find it?
anyway as I was watching your vid I kept saying to myself you got a bad ignition switch. The fuel pump shouldn't loose power after you let go of the key.
"The function of the COR (Circuit Open Relay) is to switch power to the fuel pump when the engine is running or being started. Having power to the fuel pump only when the engine is being started or is running is a safety feature. " I just googled this. But I can help you understand a little better . Take your left hand and have your thumb pointed up and your fingers extended. Your thumb is key off. Your pointer finger is run position. You middle finger is start position. The car MUST be running and be told by the ECU that the engine is running in order to put power to the fuel pump relay. ( That's your pointer finger) your middle finger will activate the fuel pump plus 2 seconds after the key goes back to run position with no start. If the car starts then only the fuel pump relay is running and will continue to do so until the car is turned off. Why the 2 second delay in the shutoff after an attempted start? It's to energize and keep fuel pressure at the rail for the next start attempt. I didn't know any of this until I researched the hell out of it. Thanks for the comment. 👍🍺
@@ZombieDaveAZ yep correct. On the older models instead of using the ECU, the COR uses the the oil pressure switch to know if the engine is running.
I have a similar situation can we talk about it
So I jumped it out from the tank like you did and it shot gas out of the fuel lines. Put everything back together and it started then died after 3 seconds. Do you think it’s the wiring in the tank?
Mine was
@@ZombieDaveAZ its a pisser for sure, all the fuses are good and the car sat for a year then it tried to start but kept dying out.. time to drop that dang tank lol :D Crazy Diamond you need a 'Thanks' button on your page brother.. ! you earned it ...
The amount of electrical problems these first gen Toyotas is insane
Well that was about as clear as mud.
Thanks for the comment. My video seemed to help some guys.
Have the same problem
Anybody know what was wrong?
I just cant listen to all the drama.
To anyone reading my reply comment to this guy BeADad. Do NOT Tell him anything!!!! Here's why. I spent HOURS trying to solve this particular problem. You don't have to subscribe to my channel, I don't monetize. It's MY findings being shared in order to help others. This guy has the balls to ask one of you to share what you learned by watching the video because he can't take the time. This is a huge problem for tik Tok scrollers. If you don't catch their attention in 10 seconds they move on. Lol 😂 Now, because I didn't like the the way he phrased his comment and if you guys support me he will be FORCED to watch the video. Then maybe he will solve his car problem or maybe he won't. I personally don't give a F--K! This is the epitome of someone trying to look over your shoulder to get the answers during a test. You did all the work and this clown just wants the answers! That's BullSh!t!! Whew I feel better. Now let's see what this keyboard warrior has to say. I'm sure it will be a winner. Educate yourself and be a better person. Don't help this guy. I actually do feel better. 😁
What we won't do for our 4Runners.
Where's the inertia switch
Different gens are in different locations. Google your model, year etc.
Where is the emergency switch on a 2004 Toyota 4Runner
It's supposed to be a red button in the trunk or on the driver side passenger side a red button that you can push
I ran out of gas in my driveway. Winter...
Now it won't start. I'm not hearing the pump come on. I'm testing the pump through the floorboard today. Also going to try to jump the COR. I'm not sure how to test it but I saw how you can jump it. I'm just wondering if I'm on the right track. If it's the pump I have to cut an access.
@@dudeeternal3334 to get access I had to drop the tank.
@@ZombieDaveAZ yeah we almost had to today because our lines wouldn't break free even with the proper wrench. My boy ended up unhooking it all from the front of the vehicle and feeding all the lines out through the floor when we did pull the pump. But she's up and running again with new pump installed.
@@dudeeternal3334 I'm quoting another commenter. " Man, what we won't do for our 4Runners". That says it all and I'm glad you guys got it going. 👍
You didn't show the car running! You explained your excellent diagnostics several times. Without getting to the point, GET TO THE POINT!!!
DID YOU FIX IT AND SHOW THE CAR RUNNING! DAH
Go to @16:20 and then tell me what you see. Quit being such a DICK! I took MY time to help YOU! And it cost you nothing! You are an ungrateful DICK.
Why don't you figure it out and then make a video.
Dude, you have me so dizzy. I'll tell you what. All I need is 1/2 a stick of powerdyne and a blasting cap, and I can fix that Four Runner. Lol