Hi yall. I am an aeronautical mechanical engineer and I was looking at the installation of the TPO to understand a bit more about it since I plan in Buying a motor home that has the system. When I got to the section 6:30 min, installation of the TPO front and rear termination I got astonished by the installer. Here's why: The reason to install the TPO under the cap is shown on the engineering drawings. When you pull the RV in the rain, the chances of getting water under the TPO are minimal, since the butyl tape, cap, another butyl tape, and lastly the trim holds it down. Similar to if the RV is stationary. On the other hand, the back is inverted, and the TPO goes on TOP since it makes it difficult for the water to slide under it when pulling at highway speeds. I take that those aerodynamics classes are tough only on the aviation side? The bottom line is, that the TPO must be under the CAP to avoid the wind and water from entering under the TPO and damaging the underlayment. Another point, the TPO is terminally compliant, meaning, you can shape it with a help of a little butane torch. Lastly, the TPO should be rolled pressed, not broom smoothly. The pressure helps the two sides bond. Dang it, why did I watch this video. Looks good on the end, but it is not kosher.
That's exactly what i was thinking. So rain doesn't get forced under the tpo at highway speeds. But in reality RVs are parked 99% of their lives. So rain water runs down the cap not up.
I actually commented on the pro and cons of this issue before I read yours. basically either works. however it all boils down to the maintenance and inspections. do nothing and you'll be paying a high price no matter what to fix it. inspect your rv roof at least twice a year and you'll be a happy camper for a long time.
The reason the install the too under the front cap is so when the front trim comes loose like you said it will, the wind won’t grab the membrane as easy and cause more damage. I’m with you though I hate the way the factory does it
I’d figure you would have scaffolding to slide up to the coach on both sides to make it easier to pull the roof in both directions. Just a though. Great job.
I have a roll around scaffolding which was used in the video, but roofing is not my primary service, so I can't keep the shop setup permanently with a walk around catwalk....it would be great though. Thanks!
I see pros and cons to your method of the membrane termination at the front cap. Going over the front cap makes sense. If the molding fails or the maintenance lacks. Then any standing water will run over the membrane, under the molding and over the front cap ( no water intrusion into the front cap and down the inside of the front wall. However. I get you mentioned that you've seen the molding loosen and lift. But if that were to happen. Then air can also get under. which means if you are driving and the butyl tape is compromised. then the membrane will or could balloon. I guess it's a matter of which damage will be worse. Basically it all boils down to the person/s that should be maintaining and inspecting the roof. If regular inspections are done. either way works. Another possible. If there isn't an issue, just driving often, the air pressure at the front molding could find its way under the membrane. I haven't seen this, but if you are going to run the membrane over the front cap, what about this order. Front cap, butyl tape, membrane, then butyl tape and last the molding? seems like a lot of butyl tape. maybe butyl caulking? Your thoughts.
Air does not force its way into the seam properly installed, factories are just lazy and install the roof first and then the cap. Wind comes at speed from all angles including the side and we overlap the sidewalls too.
That's an interesting and confident idea. It would be very impressive for the drive to push rain through the lap sealant, butyl sealant, and pass the double rubber gaskey seal made by the molding trim screwed down. I've never seen this pop up in +100 roofs. When instructed by the manufacturer, they state the instructions are mostly general guidelines and leave a great deal of preference to the installer based on conditions. I suppose some owners may not mind paying $1000 extra to remove the fiberglass front cap in order to tuck the roof "properly", but I don't see a benefit to risk breaking the cap. I would also guess every rubber roof should leak profusely if a driving rain is coming from behind then? I can also say, much like a shower pan liner, it's better to bring the membrane up the seam so standing water does not make its way under the front cap. Thanks!
That's what I thought too. I'm replacing the TPO roof on our 2003 Newmar DutchStar but when I removed the TPO at the front and back it is on the top of the fiberglass cap, just like AZ did. The termination bars are on top of the front and rear cap. I had no leak problems there whatsoever. Our leaks were mainly at the a/c mounting bolts which were all on the outside of the 14x14 a/c gasket and a small amt at the tv antenna and shower skylight. While rv roof install's installs looked good I couldn't believe some of the orig sheathing he left on there and just glued 1/8" or 1/4" luan on top of delaminated discolored wood. Also, if you need to change out a vent you're probably going to have to take it back to him to have it heat welded, unless you have a $400+ heat welding gun and the ability to use it. (It doesn't look that hard but I'm sure if you did it yourself it would void his warranty). My nephew owns a large commercial roofing company. Plus the fact you need to take it back to him to be inspected each year.(Good idea if you live or regularly travel near his neck of the woods.)
@@AZExpert absolutely on point with this reply/statement! I do Custom Showers, wet rooms, spas, and kitchens for a living..... I've tore out what doesn't work....... And well....... also common sense (or perhaps more on the uncommon side these days?....) Keep up the good work 💯
The roof on my 2022 Thor Hurricane 34J has a TPO roof and the lap sealant is full of bubble holes over the entire roof. The installer also dripped and tracked lap sealant all over my TPO roof from front to back and on top of my solar panel. It is my belief that the defective sealant should be removed and then revealed with good lap sealant. But what to do about all the spilled and tracked lap sealant?? Will any solvent remove the lap sealant off the TPO roofing without damaging it? What do you recommend? Thanks.
Hello from Minnesota, I can't find any info on this and hope you can help me. I have a 20 year old Winnebago 37G motorhome with a filon roof and spider cracks from hail damage, no leaks yet. As you would know, the 20 year old surface is a bit rough that I think an adhesive or silicone would bond to. Can I install TPO over a filon roof? And if so, what would be the best adhesive to use. I would assume expansion and contraction are not a match. And, will an eternabond type tape stick to the TPO. If I could use TPO over filon, doing it myself, I could work/glue down in sections (working outdoors) pulling vents etc or cut the TPO around the openings and tape and dicor seal those areas. I'm also considering silicone Mule Hide or Gaco silicone... cleaned, all seams prepped with fiber tape etc. As your video's point out, I don't want to do anything "Stupid" haha. Other than picking the right silicone product (Mule hide has more solids than Gaco, is there a product you would suggest?) I have a handle on the application but am concerned if silicone is the right thing to do or go another direction like TPO. I can't do a full filon demo in my driveway by myself and 10k for a pro to do new filon is not an option. Thanks!
I would have a difficult time recommending any coating or membrane if all you have are some spider cracks but no tearing or damage. Filon can be repaired like fiberglass. Securing a membrane to the sidewall will be the most difficult part
Hey guys. I have a small 2009 class c Coachman Freelander. The roof overall is in good shape except in has a few small tears around the front cap that has caused a lot of damage to the cab over. Can the tears be repaired or is it time for a new roof? I am rebuilding the front cab over and thought maybe I should go ahead and replace the roof. What are your thoughts? If I replace the roof, what type and brand of roofing material do you recommend?
Hey, if i have a flat front instead of a cap, could I run the TPO right down the front to the bottom as to avoid the seam at the top where it meets the front siding?
after removing the old material there is allot of sticky residue and now there is all kinds of stuff like dust and particulates sticking to it. what do you use to clean it off before laying down the tpo?
James I've really learned alot watching your videos. I have a 01 Georgie Boy Cruise-Master, which has the epdm roof. I was wondering if I could go back with filon? If so where could I find the 110" wide filon, i can only find the 8.5 wide. Thanks
This TPO looks like(on my screen) to have a texture on the top side), is this Superflex(I know it has a texture on the top side but it seems very stretchy on the sample I got from Rec pro )? Does it have a fleece backing, my original did? Thanks. Your channel is a big help!
I appreciate all your videos they have helped me in rebuilding my RV basket case. When installing TPO roofing which side goes down smooth side or rough side? Both sides are the same color. I looked all over the internet no one says including the instructions. I assume put it down the way it comes out of the roll. Smooth side down. Thanks in advance!
Thank you for your responses, they have helped me immensley. Do you recommend any specific heavy duty tape for between the roof radius and the decking?
@@mikerosenberger1631 Gorilla black duct tape is the easiest. We just need something to protect the underside of the membrane from the sharp edge of the metal. And the adhesive will stick to the tape too. Thanks!
Hey bro. Certified tech here from Wa state. Just curious, do you not need to put a thin layer of luan sheeting over the existing OSB first? I was just curious cuz that’s how we’ve always done it. I know things change quickly in our industry. So it’s ok to lay membrane over existing decking?
It's my preference if the exisiting deck is not damaged, that overlaying paneling it mostly a cosmetic desire which can cause more issues with screw pops or bowing and twisting from the overlaid paneling. The glue will stick to itself of course. I personally, have not seen many membrane roofs without some comsetic defect from the deck, radius, or seams so I don't feel it's worth the risk or time.
@@AZExpert Can’t say the thought and logic have not crossed my mind, more than once. Not because I wanted a shortcut, but instead exactly what you said, if the decking shows no damage, why not? My biggest worry would be the smoothness of the membrane being laid. Working on one today I helped a kid with yesterday. He made the mistake of rolling from one end to the other lol. Didn’t even make it half way before he realized how crooked the membrane was. Make matters worse, he was cutting holes as he was rolling. So trying to peal and adjust while glue was tacky was a mess. I opted to roll the membrane out and fold it back half. Let it dry and redo today. Not really his fault. This company i started with not too long ago is hung up on techs doing everything solo. A green tech tackling a roof replacement on his own is a recipe for mistakes, I don’t care how smart he thinks he is, experience matters. Man thank you bro, God bless you and your team!
On my personal RV roofs, I generally go TPO as it is cheaper and just as durable. It does not chalk as bad as EPDM. Some roofs are too wide for TPO or have crowns and angles that TPO won't form well to. Superflex is a fine product too. Thanks!
the non-sagging dicor on the top of the edge molding/drip rail, self leveling on the top, and proflex at the radius seams at the front and rear caps on a membrane(rubber/tpo roof). What application did I recommend proflex for you? I'm sorry for the confusion.
@@AZExpert Materials are cheaper than rubber roof. 10 gallon of resins is about $250. Fiberglass sheets roll $50 ea looking at $550 depending on how many rolls needed. DIY job, and last forever.
No that stuff is bonded forever to the plywood. Of course the adhesive sticks to itself so unless there is damage to the deck, it's much better use the existing pywood. Some shops "overlay" the deck with thin plywood, but I have found overlaying is more prone to failure. Thanks!
@AZExpert I can't ever seem to get the old membrane off without gouging the crap out of the osb it gets stuck to shoes and knees and everything the new roof looks horrible without an overlay
@@AZExpert Thanks I have been looking at disel. I saw a TPO repair and was concerned because we get Hurricane and strong storm in NC. Now how well fiberglass will hold during hail storm?
@@carmencolon3520 No better or worse but fiberglass will be noisy as all get out compared to tpo or epdm during a hailstorm, I have epdm and if I didn’t know it was hailing I’d have no idea from the inside.
Although the radius could be glued, not gluing it allows the membrane to be pulled when securing the edge and allows an escape path for wrinkles. Thanks!
Thanks for your responses. I am laying a new roof on my rv like this tpo roof, the existing plywood has old glue on it. Can i put the new glue over the existing glue wet and lay the roofing? Or do i need to put it on both surfaces and let them dry and then lay it down?
@@mikerosenberger1631 The membrane adhesive is water based and will stick to itself. This is not a contact cement so it is much easier to put the membrane ontop of the wet adhesive so that it will stick to the membrane too. If you wait until it is dried the membrane will not stick and you will have a lot of bubbles. Thanks!
Once screwed down the entire joint and screws are covered with self leveling acrylic roof sealant which acts mostly as a flashing. Water should only be able to penetrate the seam if the screws fail, the lap sealant is preventative and for appearances mostly. Properly installed molding won't let water in, even without the lap sealant. The roof should be inspected at least once a year for damage and any signs of joints opening. Thanks!
AZ Expert Could a person put the membrane under the front cap with something like eternabond double stick in between, then heat weld a strip of TPO to the roof behind the transition so it overlaps above the cap, sealed with eternabond, butyl putty, and lap sealant? I do like your idea, in that an RV spends more time sitting in the rain than it does being driven down the road. I just wonder if there’s a way to do both (have membrane go under, and over the edge of the front cap) and if that would be a good idea.
@@JeffinTD Sorry for the late response. Half the problem with the instuctions to install the membrane under the front cap is getting the material under the front cap safely. Most modern RVs have mold formed fiberglass caps that do not allow for any clearance especially at the radius edge. To safely get under the cap, it would have to be removed and I do not see a benefit to needlessly remove a cap as they crack don't fit back on right or can be dropped and damaged. I've never seen rain driven through lap sealant, butyl tape and two to 3 ridges on the backside of molding.I have repeatedly seen the screws fail on molding where the membranes are tucked under the cap which then becomes a large gutter directing water into the front cabinets or wall. I just don't see a benefit to the ordeal, it's better to inspect annually. Thanks!
I see your point. The last RV I had the front cap was flat fiberglass. It does seem if a roof is going to have a soft spot, it is often along the front transition.
Did you replace the sheathing too or was that the original from the factory. Regarding the TPO not being able to be stretched without damage, do you think epdm would be a better choice. Thanks.
Careful prep work can be a real time saver sometimes. The sheathing is factory. Cutting the roof into small strips and sections and baking it in the Arizona summer sun, the membrane removed with minimal damage to the sheathing which was 3/8" OSB. If the sheathing is damaged than it needs to be replaced or overlaid, which adds greatly to the time a cost of a roof. EDPM/rubber roofs are a higher quality and thicker roof, but do chalk. I'm not convinced EDPM is better though. However, some roofs are so wide that TPO is not available only EDPM. Thanks!
Going to disagree with putting the rubber above the front cap instead of tucking it inside. If water were to get inside there, that means that the molding isn't sealed properly. If that is the case and the molding for whatever reason isn't sealed properly at the front, while driving that will allow wind to get inside and potentially underneath the rubber material with no where to go. This can cause the rubber to lift, that is why they say to tuck it underneath the front cap. In my opinion, that is a worse issue than a bit of water getting inside the front cap. It is a good idea for preventing water from leaking in if the rear side of the molding isn't sealed, but I think the negatives outweigh the positives.
I disagree and your situation doesn't happen. But I cannot explain how many times the molding comes loose and water is directed straight into the front cap causing extreme damage. They tuck it in at the factory because they're lazy and have the roof on before the cap, it's that simple. The rubber lifts, because the factory doesn't glue the membrane down correctly
You can disagree all you want, but you're still wrong. Whether you tuck the TPO inside the front cap, or cut it off beneath the molding, water will still find it's way into a loose molding, especially during travel. You're just adding an additional potential problem by giving the wind the opportunity to lift the TPO. Once water gets in there, you not only have water damage to the decking, but if that roof ever catches in the wind, it will pull away from the roof and possibly stretch the material if the circumstances are correct. A good technician is always willing to learn, and you said it yourself in the video, you don't know why they tell you to tuck it in. Now you know why, but if you're willfully ignoring the proper installation method then we'll just leave it at that.
@@RVGuy613 I guess I'm not a good technician, I look forward to watching your videos and learning from you, until then I would suggest not projecting your own insecurities by trying to talk down and insult an adult stranger on the internet with a faceless account.
@@AZExpert You seem to have the same poor attitude towards anyone that tries to tell you the right way of doing something. You seem to be the type of technician that only ever does things their way and refuses to listen to anyone else's advice. Maybe the RUclips channel has inflated your ego, but when other technicians are trying to explain to you why something is done a different way than the way you're doing it, and the manufacturers who design the product are also disagreeing with the way you're doing it, but you STILL insist on doing it your way.. I'm positive me making a video for you won't help you at this point.
@@RVGuy613 I explained myself politely to address your disagreement and your ego would not let it end without insulting me. Why should anyone listen to a faceless aggressive advice, who's entire argument boils down to "trust me bro"? I have read the instructions and attended countless training from these manufacturers, I also continuously re-build failures from these manufacturers. I hear a lot of sadness and unprocessed emotional distress in the way you lash out at a stranger on the internet and hope you find time or a method to cope with the apparent professional or interpersonal related isolation you are currently in.
As Someone who roofed for many years, it blows my mind that the roof membrane goes under the front from the factory. Seriously, if it can’t withstand 100mph winds you’re doing something wrong.
each job is quoted based on many factors so it's difficult to give any close estimate. I'm pretty jealous of a factory fresh installation setup. Though the shop does a number of roofs, I can't have a catwalk setup as we do way too much other repairs. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Well no protective strips over the seams or edges. You said you didn't like the way the factory installed/sealed the side rails but you did it that way anyway. The material looks extremely thin just like the junk that comes on almost every RV. So you did an exact factory replacement. In effect your customer gets the same roof they got when it was new. In all fairness it looks like your install looks great.... just as good as new. You could put that coach on an RV lot and sell it to a happy customer. Unfortunately new in the RV world is substandard. If I'm paying for a roof that failed prematurely I want something better than what was on it. The video was great. I'm guessing you have some ideas on how to do better than new. I was hoping to see some innovation.
@@stevenfoster5737 I appreciate the feedback. The roof was replaced due to storm damage only. As an insurance job, I can only do what the insurance company and customer will pay for....which is to OEM build. This material is more than adequate to last 15 to 20 years. The thick commerical tpo and curbs rv roof install use is great....but I have doubts on the serviceability and adding new roof components in the future with their methods without returning to them. Roofs hit things all the time or get hit all the time and components go obsolete quickly in this world, so lasting 30+ years is not as important on a rv as a house
The way you installed the material at the front is completely wrong. It will allow rain to be driven under the roofing material when the trailer is in motion.That is why the factory installed it the other way. There will be no way to avoid water infiltration.
However completely unlikely that is, it would be caused by lap sealant failure, screw failure, and failure to inspect annually. There is a very high cost to remove the fiberglass cap in order to tuck the membrane under it without damaging it or the cap. Moreover, it that was actually true every rear cap would leak in a driving rain that was blowing from behind the RV as this is the method the manufacture recommends at the rear. Thanks!
Looks good. Thanks for the video James. Happy trails!
Thanks again Phil
Nice job. Lot's of fun. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!
Hard working nice fellow, I like his tips. If I need help with my RV I'll look him up
Thanks! Learned a few do's and don't that will help me with my TPO project.
You're very welcome. I'm glad it helped.
Hi yall. I am an aeronautical mechanical engineer and I was looking at the installation of the TPO to understand a bit more about it since I plan in Buying a motor home that has the system. When I got to the section 6:30 min, installation of the TPO front and rear termination I got astonished by the installer. Here's why: The reason to install the TPO under the cap is shown on the engineering drawings. When you pull the RV in the rain, the chances of getting water under the TPO are minimal, since the butyl tape, cap, another butyl tape, and lastly the trim holds it down. Similar to if the RV is stationary. On the other hand, the back is inverted, and the TPO goes on TOP since it makes it difficult for the water to slide under it when pulling at highway speeds. I take that those aerodynamics classes are tough only on the aviation side? The bottom line is, that the TPO must be under the CAP to avoid the wind and water from entering under the TPO and damaging the underlayment. Another point, the TPO is terminally compliant, meaning, you can shape it with a help of a little butane torch. Lastly, the TPO should be rolled pressed, not broom smoothly. The pressure helps the two sides bond. Dang it, why did I watch this video. Looks good on the end, but it is not kosher.
thanks for your input. I look forward to your installation videos to learn from.
Mackieviczusa Make me a sandwich! Ham and cheese please Thank you
That's exactly what i was thinking. So rain doesn't get forced under the tpo at highway speeds. But in reality RVs are parked 99% of their lives. So rain water runs down the cap not up.
I actually commented on the pro and cons of this issue before I read yours. basically either works. however it all boils down to the maintenance and inspections. do nothing and you'll be paying a high price no matter what to fix it. inspect your rv roof at least twice a year and you'll be a happy camper for a long time.
The reason the install the too under the front cap is so when the front trim comes loose like you said it will, the wind won’t grab the membrane as easy and cause more damage. I’m with you though I hate the way the factory does it
Hey, Thanks for watching! :)
Pro tip: you can use a clean unused paint roller on a long broom handle to smooth out your roof membrane and work the bubbles out.
Thanks for the tip
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, and tips!
My pleasure!
What are your thoughts on using Zip sheathing under the membrane?
I’d figure you would have scaffolding to slide up to the coach on both sides to make it easier to pull the roof in both directions. Just a though. Great job.
I have a roll around scaffolding which was used in the video, but roofing is not my primary service, so I can't keep the shop setup permanently with a walk around catwalk....it would be great though. Thanks!
Scaffold makes it easier and safer. We got $10,000 worth if scaffold and safety rails. But it can take up some room
@The Salty Medic......... The SALT Must Flow! Reeeeeeeeeeeeeee!😂
GOD BLESS AMERICA!
I see pros and cons to your method of the membrane termination at the front cap. Going over the front cap makes sense. If the molding fails or the maintenance lacks. Then any standing water will run over the membrane, under the molding and over the front cap ( no water intrusion into the front cap and down the inside of the front wall. However. I get you mentioned that you've seen the molding loosen and lift. But if that were to happen. Then air can also get under. which means if you are driving and the butyl tape is compromised. then the membrane will or could balloon. I guess it's a matter of which damage will be worse. Basically it all boils down to the person/s that should be maintaining and inspecting the roof. If regular inspections are done. either way works. Another possible. If there isn't an issue, just driving often, the air pressure at the front molding could find its way under the membrane. I haven't seen this, but if you are going to run the membrane over the front cap, what about this order. Front cap, butyl tape, membrane, then butyl tape and last the molding? seems like a lot of butyl tape. maybe butyl caulking? Your thoughts.
Air does not force its way into the seam properly installed, factories are just lazy and install the roof first and then the cap. Wind comes at speed from all angles including the side and we overlap the sidewalls too.
It goes under the cap to stop rain from entering when the rig is being towed. 55-65 mph rain storm. It will leak if towed in the rain.
That's an interesting and confident idea. It would be very impressive for the drive to push rain through the lap sealant, butyl sealant, and pass the double rubber gaskey seal made by the molding trim screwed down. I've never seen this pop up in +100 roofs. When instructed by the manufacturer, they state the instructions are mostly general guidelines and leave a great deal of preference to the installer based on conditions. I suppose some owners may not mind paying $1000 extra to remove the fiberglass front cap in order to tuck the roof "properly", but I don't see a benefit to risk breaking the cap. I would also guess every rubber roof should leak profusely if a driving rain is coming from behind then? I can also say, much like a shower pan liner, it's better to bring the membrane up the seam so standing water does not make its way under the front cap. Thanks!
That's what I thought too. I'm replacing the TPO roof on our 2003 Newmar DutchStar but when I removed the TPO at the front and back it is on the top of the fiberglass cap, just like AZ did. The termination bars are on top of the front and rear cap. I had no leak problems there whatsoever. Our leaks were mainly at the a/c mounting bolts which were all on the outside of the 14x14 a/c gasket and a small amt at the tv antenna and shower skylight. While rv roof install's installs looked good I couldn't believe some of the orig sheathing he left on there and just glued 1/8" or 1/4" luan on top of delaminated discolored wood. Also, if you need to change out a vent you're probably going to have to take it back to him to have it heat welded, unless you have a $400+ heat welding gun and the ability to use it. (It doesn't look that hard but I'm sure if you did it yourself it would void his warranty). My nephew owns a large commercial roofing company. Plus the fact you need to take it back to him to be inspected each year.(Good idea if you live or regularly travel near his neck of the woods.)
@@AZExpert absolutely on point with this reply/statement!
I do Custom Showers, wet rooms, spas, and kitchens for a living..... I've tore out what doesn't work....... And well....... also common sense (or perhaps more on the uncommon side these days?....)
Keep up the good work 💯
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet thank you
The roof on my 2022 Thor Hurricane 34J has a TPO roof and the lap sealant is full of bubble holes over the entire roof. The installer also dripped and tracked lap sealant all over my TPO roof from front to back and on top of my solar panel. It is my belief that the defective sealant should be removed and then revealed with good lap sealant. But what to do about all the spilled and tracked lap sealant?? Will any solvent remove the lap sealant off the TPO roofing without damaging it? What do you recommend? Thanks.
Great video! I have a DIY camper going on now. Would you TPO or EPDM the roof if you had the chance?
I like TPO better unless there is a bend large crown to the roof.
So you do not have to glue the TPO roof material?….. only the wood surface. Or is good to glue both to make it extra better adhesion?
should there be a bonding agent between the plywood and metal on a metal roof?1988 ford coachman class c
What material would you recommend putting on 2003 Newmar Dutch Star? Would you do Brite-Tek again?
Hello from Minnesota, I can't find any info on this and hope you can help me. I have a 20 year old Winnebago 37G motorhome with a filon roof and spider cracks from hail damage, no leaks yet. As you would know, the 20 year old surface is a bit rough that I think an adhesive or silicone would bond to. Can I install TPO over a filon roof? And if so, what would be the best adhesive to use. I would assume expansion and contraction are not a match. And, will an eternabond type tape stick to the TPO. If I could use TPO over filon, doing it myself, I could work/glue down in sections (working outdoors) pulling vents etc or cut the TPO around the openings and tape and dicor seal those areas.
I'm also considering silicone Mule Hide or Gaco silicone... cleaned, all seams prepped with fiber tape etc. As your video's point out, I don't want to do anything "Stupid" haha. Other than picking the right silicone product (Mule hide has more solids than Gaco, is there a product you would suggest?) I have a handle on the application but am concerned if silicone is the right thing to do or go another direction like TPO. I can't do a full filon demo in my driveway by myself and 10k for a pro to do new filon is not an option. Thanks!
I would have a difficult time recommending any coating or membrane if all you have are some spider cracks but no tearing or damage. Filon can be repaired like fiberglass. Securing a membrane to the sidewall will be the most difficult part
You only use a broom, no need to use a roller with pressure?
Hey guys. I have a small 2009 class c Coachman Freelander. The roof overall is in good shape except in has a few small tears around the front cap that has caused a lot of damage to the cab over. Can the tears be repaired or is it time for a new roof? I am rebuilding the front cab over and thought maybe I should go ahead and replace the roof. What are your thoughts? If I replace the roof, what type and brand of roofing material do you recommend?
Looking for decent roof kit for 26’ travel trailer for the money. Wondering if the pro could point me in the right direction. Lots of options. TIA.
Amazon has rubber roof kits. $539 for 45 mil. 30' x 9'-6"
Hey, if i have a flat front instead of a cap, could I run the TPO right down the front to the bottom as to avoid the seam at the top where it meets the front siding?
I would not recommend deviating from the original design
What is the cost of this repair?
after removing the old material there is allot of sticky residue and now there is all kinds of stuff like dust and particulates sticking to it. what do you use to clean it off before laying down the tpo?
I usually replace the wood underneath
When you reinstall the edge trim, are you trying to hit the original screw holes?
Depends on the condition
Hey thanks for this video -- how did you reinstall the sewer tank pipes that you cut off?
Just use a 1.5 inch abs coupler and glue them together. Thanks
Best roof ever...
LOL
Hey quick question. Did one gallon of adhesive get the job done?
Definitely not... it takes a couple
James I've really learned alot watching your videos. I have a 01 Georgie Boy Cruise-Master, which has the epdm roof. I was wondering if I could go back with filon? If so where could I find the 110" wide filon, i can only find the 8.5 wide. Thanks
it would be a difficult switch to filon from epdm
This TPO looks like(on my screen) to have a texture on the top side), is this Superflex(I know it has a texture on the top side but it seems very stretchy on the sample I got from Rec pro )? Does it have a fleece backing, my original did? Thanks. Your channel is a big help!
Yes it has texture. Dicor calls it Britek. This does not have fleece backing, which is awful. I'm glad youenjoy the channel!
Nice job! 👍
What sealant should I use to seal my front and rear seams and vent penetrations? I understand regular dicor isn’t what to use on TPO roof materials.
Self leveling acylic on the rooftop. Thanks!
I appreciate all your videos they have helped me in rebuilding my RV basket case. When installing TPO roofing which side goes down smooth side or rough side? Both sides are the same color. I looked all over the internet no one says including the instructions. I assume put it down the way it comes out of the roll. Smooth side down. Thanks in advance!
smooth side down
It’s the opposite, superflex instructions say to out the textured side down
Do you use something on the osb before the glue or is that old glue?? noticed the sheen and curious
The glue will stick to itself, in fact, a loose roof membrane will be glued back down not replaced or re-decked. Thanks
Do you ever use a seam tape between the decking boards or between the wood and the edge radius under the roofing?
I use the factory approved mesh tape at seams and heavy duty tape at the metal radius on top method. Thanks!
Thank you for your responses, they have helped me immensley. Do you recommend any specific heavy duty tape for between the roof radius and the decking?
@@mikerosenberger1631 Gorilla black duct tape is the easiest. We just need something to protect the underside of the membrane from the sharp edge of the metal. And the adhesive will stick to the tape too. Thanks!
Hey bro. Certified tech here from Wa state. Just curious, do you not need to put a thin layer of luan sheeting over the existing OSB first? I was just curious cuz that’s how we’ve always done it. I know things change quickly in our industry. So it’s ok to lay membrane over existing decking?
It's my preference if the exisiting deck is not damaged, that overlaying paneling it mostly a cosmetic desire which can cause more issues with screw pops or bowing and twisting from the overlaid paneling. The glue will stick to itself of course. I personally, have not seen many membrane roofs without some comsetic defect from the deck, radius, or seams so I don't feel it's worth the risk or time.
@@AZExpert Can’t say the thought and logic have not crossed my mind, more than once. Not because I wanted a shortcut, but instead exactly what you said, if the decking shows no damage, why not? My biggest worry would be the smoothness of the membrane being laid. Working on one today I helped a kid with yesterday. He made the mistake of rolling from one end to the other lol. Didn’t even make it half way before he realized how crooked the membrane was. Make matters worse, he was cutting holes as he was rolling. So trying to peal and adjust while glue was tacky was a mess. I opted to roll the membrane out and fold it back half. Let it dry and redo today. Not really his fault. This company i started with not too long ago is hung up on techs doing everything solo. A green tech tackling a roof replacement on his own is a recipe for mistakes, I don’t care how smart he thinks he is, experience matters. Man thank you bro, God bless you and your team!
So what is the verdict: Do you like TPO or EPDM better and what about superflex?
On my personal RV roofs, I generally go TPO as it is cheaper and just as durable. It does not chalk as bad as EPDM. Some roofs are too wide for TPO or have crowns and angles that TPO won't form well to. Superflex is a fine product too. Thanks!
how do you repair the vent stack pipes after cutting them off
Thats easy, just glue with 1 1/2" abs coupler. Thanks
Do you ever encounter a roof that is missing a termination bar on the front or rear? My 02 fleetwood fiesta just has screws into the back cap.
Yes, I have seen rear caps just installed with screws and no molding.
You recommended Proflex to me but you used Dicor on this TPO install any reason for change in opinion.
the non-sagging dicor on the top of the edge molding/drip rail, self leveling on the top, and proflex at the radius seams at the front and rear caps on a membrane(rubber/tpo roof). What application did I recommend proflex for you? I'm sorry for the confusion.
@@AZExpert look at 8:30 on this video This is what I'm doing but cleaning it up on a 03 Flair ruclips.net/video/g6PDqqebi9E/видео.html
Why not just fiberglass the whole roof?
That is messy and expensive
@@AZExpert Materials are cheaper than rubber roof.
10 gallon of resins is about $250. Fiberglass sheets roll $50 ea looking at $550 depending on how many rolls needed. DIY job, and last forever.
@@JustFun-zq7qc I'd encourage you to start a company doing it then, it sounds like easy money. Thanks
Where do you get your TPO roofing? I have been looking at Amazon.
Look at a local RV supply company.
That's funny! Good job
@Ellis Royce Sounds like you need a better girlfriend if you have to hack her account.
What about the existing glue? Do you try to remove it?
No that stuff is bonded forever to the plywood. Of course the adhesive sticks to itself so unless there is damage to the deck, it's much better use the existing pywood. Some shops "overlay" the deck with thin plywood, but I have found overlaying is more prone to failure. Thanks!
@AZExpert I can't ever seem to get the old membrane off without gouging the crap out of the osb it gets stuck to shoes and knees and everything the new roof looks horrible without an overlay
Should I avoid rvs with TPO roofing? What are the best stronger roofing on rv.
Gel coat Fiberglass roofs are the best but only common on Class A Diesels. TPO is a good product and I like it.
@@AZExpert Thanks I have been looking at disel. I saw a TPO repair and was concerned because we get Hurricane and strong storm in NC. Now how well fiberglass will hold during hail storm?
@@carmencolon3520 No better or worse but fiberglass will be noisy as all get out compared to tpo or epdm during a hailstorm, I have epdm and if I didn’t know it was hailing I’d have no idea from the inside.
Do you put glue only on the wood or also on the roof radius?
Although the radius could be glued, not gluing it allows the membrane to be pulled when securing the edge and allows an escape path for wrinkles. Thanks!
Thanks for your responses. I am laying a new roof on my rv like this tpo roof, the existing plywood has old glue on it. Can i put the new glue over the existing glue wet and lay the roofing? Or do i need to put it on both surfaces and let them dry and then lay it down?
@@mikerosenberger1631 The membrane adhesive is water based and will stick to itself. This is not a contact cement so it is much easier to put the membrane ontop of the wet adhesive so that it will stick to the membrane too. If you wait until it is dried the membrane will not stick and you will have a lot of bubbles. Thanks!
Stupid question. Why don't rvs ever use real laid down fiberglass like boats do?
Some have fiberglass
What gauge T.O.P is that
It's Diflex II
@@AZExpert 038 thin
Nice Job Here
Thanks!
How did you finish off the front? What about rain water getting under the front as it is being pulled down the road?
Once screwed down the entire joint and screws are covered with self leveling acrylic roof sealant which acts mostly as a flashing. Water should only be able to penetrate the seam if the screws fail, the lap sealant is preventative and for appearances mostly. Properly installed molding won't let water in, even without the lap sealant. The roof should be inspected at least once a year for damage and any signs of joints opening. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Thank you!
AZ Expert Could a person put the membrane under the front cap with something like eternabond double stick in between, then heat weld a strip of TPO to the roof behind the transition so it overlaps above the cap, sealed with eternabond, butyl putty, and lap sealant?
I do like your idea, in that an RV spends more time sitting in the rain than it does being driven down the road.
I just wonder if there’s a way to do both (have membrane go under, and over the edge of the front cap) and if that would be a good idea.
@@JeffinTD Sorry for the late response. Half the problem with the instuctions to install the membrane under the front cap is getting the material under the front cap safely. Most modern RVs have mold formed fiberglass caps that do not allow for any clearance especially at the radius edge. To safely get under the cap, it would have to be removed and I do not see a benefit to needlessly remove a cap as they crack don't fit back on right or can be dropped and damaged. I've never seen rain driven through lap sealant, butyl tape and two to 3 ridges on the backside of molding.I have repeatedly seen the screws fail on molding where the membranes are tucked under the cap which then becomes a large gutter directing water into the front cabinets or wall. I just don't see a benefit to the ordeal, it's better to inspect annually. Thanks!
I see your point. The last RV I had the front cap was flat fiberglass.
It does seem if a roof is going to have a soft spot, it is often along the front transition.
Did you replace the sheathing too or was that the original from the factory. Regarding the TPO not being able to be stretched without damage, do you think epdm would be a better choice. Thanks.
Careful prep work can be a real time saver sometimes. The sheathing is factory. Cutting the roof into small strips and sections and baking it in the Arizona summer sun, the membrane removed with minimal damage to the sheathing which was 3/8" OSB. If the sheathing is damaged than it needs to be replaced or overlaid, which adds greatly to the time a cost of a roof. EDPM/rubber roofs are a higher quality and thicker roof, but do chalk. I'm not convinced EDPM is better though. However, some roofs are so wide that TPO is not available only EDPM. Thanks!
Going to disagree with putting the rubber above the front cap instead of tucking it inside. If water were to get inside there, that means that the molding isn't sealed properly. If that is the case and the molding for whatever reason isn't sealed properly at the front, while driving that will allow wind to get inside and potentially underneath the rubber material with no where to go. This can cause the rubber to lift, that is why they say to tuck it underneath the front cap. In my opinion, that is a worse issue than a bit of water getting inside the front cap. It is a good idea for preventing water from leaking in if the rear side of the molding isn't sealed, but I think the negatives outweigh the positives.
I disagree and your situation doesn't happen. But I cannot explain how many times the molding comes loose and water is directed straight into the front cap causing extreme damage. They tuck it in at the factory because they're lazy and have the roof on before the cap, it's that simple. The rubber lifts, because the factory doesn't glue the membrane down correctly
You can disagree all you want, but you're still wrong. Whether you tuck the TPO inside the front cap, or cut it off beneath the molding, water will still find it's way into a loose molding, especially during travel. You're just adding an additional potential problem by giving the wind the opportunity to lift the TPO. Once water gets in there, you not only have water damage to the decking, but if that roof ever catches in the wind, it will pull away from the roof and possibly stretch the material if the circumstances are correct.
A good technician is always willing to learn, and you said it yourself in the video, you don't know why they tell you to tuck it in. Now you know why, but if you're willfully ignoring the proper installation method then we'll just leave it at that.
@@RVGuy613 I guess I'm not a good technician, I look forward to watching your videos and learning from you, until then I would suggest not projecting your own insecurities by trying to talk down and insult an adult stranger on the internet with a faceless account.
@@AZExpert You seem to have the same poor attitude towards anyone that tries to tell you the right way of doing something. You seem to be the type of technician that only ever does things their way and refuses to listen to anyone else's advice. Maybe the RUclips channel has inflated your ego, but when other technicians are trying to explain to you why something is done a different way than the way you're doing it, and the manufacturers who design the product are also disagreeing with the way you're doing it, but you STILL insist on doing it your way.. I'm positive me making a video for you won't help you at this point.
@@RVGuy613 I explained myself politely to address your disagreement and your ego would not let it end without insulting me. Why should anyone listen to a faceless aggressive advice, who's entire argument boils down to "trust me bro"? I have read the instructions and attended countless training from these manufacturers, I also continuously re-build failures from these manufacturers. I hear a lot of sadness and unprocessed emotional distress in the way you lash out at a stranger on the internet and hope you find time or a method to cope with the apparent professional or interpersonal related isolation you are currently in.
As Someone who roofed for many years, it blows my mind that the roof membrane goes under the front from the factory. Seriously, if it can’t withstand 100mph winds you’re doing something wrong.
How much do you guys get paid to do these repairs? I do them all the time in the factory where RV’s are made. I’ve rubber roofed for 12 years
each job is quoted based on many factors so it's difficult to give any close estimate. I'm pretty jealous of a factory fresh installation setup. Though the shop does a number of roofs, I can't have a catwalk setup as we do way too much other repairs. Thanks!
You keep a Great Attitude....
I try
Poor design, what were they thinking? they should have wider metal stripping, with a quality neo sear built in.
Everything “RV roof install” doesn’t recommend, you actually do.
Different strokes for different folks
Looks like cheap RV TPO roofing
OMG you guys need to watch some videos from RV Roof Install before you submit videos.
OMG I already have. They have a very unique method for sure. What exactly should l be learning from their videos before I submit?
@@AZExpert Well no protective strips over the seams or edges. You said you didn't like the way the factory installed/sealed the side rails but you did it that way anyway. The material looks extremely thin just like the junk that comes on almost every RV.
So you did an exact factory replacement. In effect your customer gets the same roof they got when it was new.
In all fairness it looks like your install looks great.... just as good as new. You could put that coach on an RV lot and sell it to a happy customer.
Unfortunately new in the RV world is substandard. If I'm paying for a roof that failed prematurely I want something better than what was on it. The video was great. I'm guessing you have some ideas on how to do better than new. I was hoping to see some innovation.
@@stevenfoster5737 I appreciate the feedback. The roof was replaced due to storm damage only. As an insurance job, I can only do what the insurance company and customer will pay for....which is to OEM build. This material is more than adequate to last 15 to 20 years. The thick commerical tpo and curbs rv roof install use is great....but I have doubts on the serviceability and adding new roof components in the future with their methods without returning to them. Roofs hit things all the time or get hit all the time and components go obsolete quickly in this world, so lasting 30+ years is not as important on a rv as a house
@@AZExpert fair enough
I've never seen an insurance or warranty claim that was enough money to cover some the time on an install like Rv Roof install does.
The way you installed the material at the front is completely wrong. It will allow rain to be driven under the roofing material when the trailer is in motion.That is why the factory installed it the other way. There will be no way to avoid water infiltration.
However completely unlikely that is, it would be caused by lap sealant failure, screw failure, and failure to inspect annually. There is a very high cost to remove the fiberglass cap in order to tuck the membrane under it without damaging it or the cap. Moreover, it that was actually true every rear cap would leak in a driving rain that was blowing from behind the RV as this is the method the manufacture recommends at the rear. Thanks!