Easy LED Lights for Cosplay! - BORDERLANDS 2 - Unkempt Harold Build - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- LEDs don't have to be scary! Here's a super easy beginner tutorial showing you how to add epic lights to your props and costumes using Bill's foam Borderlands Blaster.
Part 3: Painting the Unkempt Harold • HOW TO: Borderlands Pa...
BORDERLANDS Blaster Tutorial Part 2 - HOW TO: Easy LEDs Lights for Cosplay
Part 1: Building the Blaster
• Foam Prop Fabrication ...
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Resistance Calculator
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Series and Parallel Circuits Video
• Series and Parallel Ci...
Electronics:
Wire Strippers "Candy" - Amazon
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Hardware Store Flashlight - Harbor Freight
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Soldering Iron - Amazon
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Toggle Switch - Amazon
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Soldering Station Video
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Helping Hands - Amazon
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Bread Board - Amazon
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AAA Battery Holder - Amazon
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Battery Checker - Amazon
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22 Gauge Wire - Amazon
Black amzn.to/2LRa7EZ
Red amzn.to/2VsuAEo
28 Gauge "Magnet" Wire - Amazon
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Lever Nuts - Amazon
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Solid Sal Amoniac - Amazon
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Alligator Clips - Amazpn
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Heat Shrink Tubing - Amazon
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Other Tools & Materials:
Leather Hole Punch - Amazon
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Double Sided Tape - Amazon
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Colored Acrylic Sheets - Amazon
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Band Saw - Amazon
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Belt Sander - Amazon
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Aluminum Tape - Amazon
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Clear Ruler - Amazon
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X-Acto Knife - Amazon
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Contact Cement - Amazon
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Hot Glue - Amazon
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Tamiya Paint - Amazon
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Scroll Saw - Amazon
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Video Talent: Bill Doran
Filming/Editing: Brittany Doran
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Check out our website for the full tools & Materials list + bonus images: punishedprops.com/2019/01/07/beginner-leds/
Bill, I work in assembly and testing of spacecraft and thought you might be interested to learn (if you didn't already know) that the 'gladys' type of strippers are what we use for working on wires for flight qualified hardware. The brand we use is the "ideal inc custom stripmaster". The important part about their design is the precise blades mounted in the jaws. They are designed for specific wire gauges, and insulator materials and thicknesses so that they simultaneously grip the insulator and cut to the wire, without nicking any in the process. Any nicks on the wires at inspection will fail the component. Additionally the clamping jaws on the other side are also made to grip the wire without marking it (no teeth), so that the conductor inside is not damaged. It's only one tool used in making a spacecraft, but it's a good example of how even the off the shelf tools we use have to be carefully selected. I believe they are also the type of wire strippers used on the ISS.
Where does the battery go?
What are your stripper's names?
Even if it's a project I'll never do...I sure like watching your videos
Fantastic choice of wires. A little piece of advice for anyone using higher voltage LED's; As cool as LED bulbs are, if you are running automobile grade(12 volt DC) in something like EVA foam, it will work but you'll have to reinforce the holes with some type of sleeve, as the bulbs can get hot enough to begin melting the foam. Even something as simple as using and iron to put the holes in, will vulcanize the foam enough to handle the heat. Fantastic video, and look forward to the next! ^^
That's a really great point! Thanks for sharing. =D
LEDs usually also have a little flat spot on the negative side :)
Oh snap! I don't know how I never noticed that!
I was going to put the same, it's a lot easier than having to look for the Anvil to identify the negative.
Great video keep up the amazing content 😁
@@punishedprops You can even see it on pcb's silkprint.
Came to say that same thing. Found your comment first
But I've seen some cheap ass LEDs that have them backwards(flat on positive). If you buy your LEDs from RadioShack or something, it probably won't matter, but if you're scavenging LEDs, you may need to double check depending on the source.
Just FYI
While you're re-purposing the torch, the edge of the case can be sharpened up to make a large foam hole-punch too...
Also since they are aluminum and inherently lightweight, he could use them like a barrel mod for a Prop gun.
You should put a dab or even a piece of hot melt on your wires before using the heat shrink. Makes instant "Marine Grade" heat shrink. The heat will melt the hot melt and sort of consolidate everything together.
Oooh that's a really great idea!
@@punishedprops Its also good when using heat shrink on something like paracord. The glue seeps in.
Another awesome segment from Bill. This definitely takes some of the complexity out of wiring a prop. I've been 3d printing for about 3 years now and this has made it seem less scary than I thought lol. Thanks for the lesson and inspiration Punished Props Crew!
You are most welcome. =)
Talking about testing the batteries and realizing that a project isn't working reminded me of a project. I built a 1:350 scale model of the NX-01 Enterprise for a client with full lighting, I'm talking warp engines, bussard collectors that had a spinning effect, two different circuits for the strobes vs the anti-collision lights, etc. He wanted the model to be battery-powered so that he could take it to a convention and walk around with it on a cart to show people, so I put two 6volt AA battery holders in there wired in series so that they'd provide the full 12v that the project needed.. Anyway, and after it was done I threw the switch and... half the lights didn't work! I didn't know what could be causing it, and since the model was built and painted, all the circuitry was inside it and impossible to access. I was about to bang my head on the wall, till I realized that I hadn't changed the batteries since the start of the project and had been using them to test the model's individual circuits. They might be low! I replaced all the batteries and turned it on, and suddenly everything worked just fine! Crisis averted!
You're a good teacher, Bill. Thanks.
You're so welcome! I'm glad these videos help!
If you don't know there is a flat side on LED's next to one of the legs that leg is the negative, It is there for the specific case that the legs have been cut and you need to figure out the polarity.
Wow just finished the first Borderlands. What a timing.
That's so perfect! You're gonna have SO MUCH FUN in Borderlands 2!
Alkaline batteries usually have enough resistance so the LEDs won't overheat, but if you start using other types or power supplies things quickly get toasty without extra resistors.
That's very good to know!
@@punishedprops The resistors can also decrease the current and make your batteries last longer--sometimes without a huge drop in brightness.
@@zachtayloriv Yes i 've always heard them called current limiting not voltage limiting resistors. Its an LED thing I don't need to understand.
I'm paranoid. I always use current limiting resistors. Of course, I also make things like this USB rechargeable, so I design for 5V and use li-ion with a boost/charge board. Add in a 555 timer circuit and you can have special effects on the trigger switch. But that is beyond a tutorial at this level. But when you're ready, look up "astable 555 timer" for ideas.
@@punishedprops I wrote a long rambling reply about the difference between current and voltage, but then realized Sparkfun's already done it far better and less rambly :) learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/light-emitting-diodes-leds
The correct current will help your LEDs last longer, stay more constantly bright, and help your batteries last longer by not trying to dump too much current.
The red "exotic model" you showed is the one I use and I love it!
Oh yeah Candy is one of my favorites.
@@punishedprops Funny that you name your tools. :p
Great you helped me solve my lightening problem on my wife custom Neutrona Wand
Excellent! =D
Definitely one to add to the library
Cheers again.
Splendid!
To connect bundles of wires like that I would strip 2" on each and use a set of linesman pliers to spiral them together. Once they are soldered you can cut them down to 3/4". They also make marette/terminal hybrids. They have one set screw and then a "marette" style insulator. Not the worst way to make connections and it makes repairs easy.
That''s really fantastic advice, thanks for sharing. =D
Great video Bill. For the big bundles you get an easier and more stable joint with dual wall, adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. It's basically the usual tubing but lined with hot glue. Search amazon or similar for "dual wall heat shrink".
Woah NEAT! I had no idea, thanks for sharing.
Nice and easy to follow tutorial Bill. Thank you.
So happy we can help!
Thank you for this tutorial. I've been wanting to do LEDs in my props, but I've hesitated due to how complex it can be. But you've shown how simple it can be! Thanks again!
You're super welcome!
This was super duper helpful! I'm working on a project with LEDs and have only done baby stuff in the classroom before. Will be coming back to this when I'm ready!
That's splendid! Have fun. =D
Good stuff Bill & Brittany! I’m pumped to make myself one!
Thanks!
Hi Bill great video, if you can get some 'solder flux paste' from somewhere like Jaycar, it will change your soldering life! you just dip the wires in it before you tin them and put a tiny bit on any joint before you solder, I small tub will last years. You wont believe how much easier and the improvement it makes on the soldering joint. Also a lighter on the coil wire for a second before you tin it can remove most of the coating, so you don't have to overheat the joint with the iron burning it off... And like a few have mentioned, your voltages etc are a bit off, remember most AA and AAA rechargeable batteries are 1.2 volts charged whereas normal batteries are approx 1.5 volts, so with 3 there is a pretty big difference in total voltage, 3.6 volts to 4.5 volts. But hey if you been running what your doing for 10 years and it's worked for you, then more power to you :) there are much better options with the Lipo cells, let me know if you want a run down.
As always it's a great video, thankyou, I enjoyed it a lot, and the blaster looks great!!
Fantastic tips! =)
I honestly can't understand why anyone could dislike these videos, they are amazing.
This was so fun to watch! Also that outro LOOOOOOOOL!
Thank you so much for your LED basic explaining by using led flash lights. I've bought the same flash lights, cut it off and gave light to my props, tada. So helpful to me. Please do more of these videos.
You could use solderable breadboard or vero/stripboard to join up the ground /positive connections in line while keeping things tidy and compact, depending on how thick the wires are. It's basically a breadboard made from copper in strips. the advantage of this is better connectivity than all wires bunched together, and one could easily shave out a middle strip for example to keep the two rails more separate (while maintaining a small profile, basically 3 or 4 breadboard spaces thick, if that makes sense).
great video. the strip show at the end was amazing.
Pretty hot, right?
@9:14 OMG That's the techno song from Strongbad Emails on Homestar Runner! I thought I was the only one who still mimics that sound lol. "The system is down. The system is down." Classic reference right there!
FYI that 28 AWG wire is coated with enamel. While it's not as fast, I'd recommend using some form of abrasion to remove the enamel before soldering. When the enamel "burns" off it leaves contaminants in the solder joint which can compromise it's quality. It's probably fine in this application but a good alternative (as others have mentioned) is wire-wrapping and soldering over the wrap.
That's a really great point, thanks for sharing!
@@punishedprops Thanks for the great videos!
Use electrical twist on wire connectors (also called wire nuts or Scotchloks for 3M brand) to connect multiple wires. They are insulated and removable if you need to make repairs.
Know it is an old video but you can join all of those wires together using a bus bar terminal block. They keep everything fairly neat for a many-to-one connection, but depending on your application it could be a feature of the prop rather than just the hidden innards of the prop.
If you use a chunk of pvc tubing and a vise to force the circuit board out you can save the knurled tubes for other projects.
That's a really great idea!
For those big bundles of wire that you used heat-shrink on, you could also try liquid electrical tape. It's a little bit cleaner.
Oh SNAP! I didn't know that was a thing! I'll have to get some.
@@punishedprops I got a little jar from Fred Meyer for about five bucks, and I use it for any awkward spaces where tape wouldn't readily work.
@@joshmaceachern7383 Fred Meyer? This guy Seattles. :)
Simple and perhaps obvious tips. Magnet wire comes in different colors! I use Red for Positive and Green for Negative! Makes things a bit easier to keep track of. It also comes in different gauges, I generally use 26AWG for what I'm doing, but you can get thicker or thinner wires. The higher the AWG the thinner the wire.
Another Great build. I can't wait to see it all painted up and finished. I just hope you left the battery pack leads long enough to allow it to slide out to change batteries,
Keep an eye out for Monday's video!
Excellent video and timely for me - thanks !!
You're welcome!
cant wait to see the paint video!
We're filming it today! It's almost DONE! =D
Video's Intro = D E M O N I T I Z E D
Thank you so much for mentioning the lever nuts! I am working on a project and I'm so ordering a bunch of these.
Thank you so much for this video! I have watched a number of other tutorials on wiring/sodering/basic circuit explanations and this is just so much clearer than what I had previously seen. I think just having the breadboard there and showing how different combinations do different results is just a very helpful visual. Between this and your other videos I am excited to get into some different projects.
That's wonderful! We're so glad this video was helpful!
This just popped in my recommendation and I'm so glad I saw it, only issue is that it's a hyperion grip.
Thanks so much for watching!
@punished props, you should investgate electrical busses. They'll allow for a neat way to connect as many circuits as you want.
Great video! I've been working with electronics for years and still learned some things from this video--thanks, guys!
Thanks Zach! =)
An alternative to getting a single use devices like a battery tester, one may wish to obtain a simple multimeter has about the same cost and can do so much more (including testing virtually any type of battery).
Woah, that outro! 😝
I died. I am now ded.
Haha I KNEW she was going to come in some calipers! You guys are awesome!
Oh you know us too well. =)
i could watch Bill talk about switches and electronics all day
Awesome job
Love it! Super cool seeing this come together. FYI acrylic + alcohol can cause nasty crazing and cracking over time!
this was another great episode!
there are connectors you can get that you just clamp on at harbor freight. I used them when I installed a car radio into my wife's car. With the big bunch you can use the screw on caps that you'd find in your walls. That seems like a more fitting way seeing as you wouldn't want to use heat shrink near your eva.
Super cool!
I'm glad I'm not the only one who solders like that. LOL. I've seen people whose solder work is a work of art.... I'm not one of them.
Same XD
@@punishedprops When I was about 12 I soldered together my first "tube" AM transmitter. It didn't work.
I called a guy who was an EE at the local AFB for help. He came over and started saying stuff like, "Well, this one's a cold solder joint. Look, I can pull the wire out. And, this one, it might be arcing to this wire..." and so forth.
He then re-soldered the entire thing for me. It taught me a lot, but my solder work sill looks like dog-doo. LOL
You guys should make a tutorial for the NCR Veteran Ranger helmet out of foam! That would be an awesome video for LEDs and other electronics too!
Thank you! Great stuff
Glad this came out today! I just started my Pip-Boy mod and was having some issues with scavenged LEDs and switches from a dollar store water fountain!
There's a really cool video I seen recently of the Fallout 76 pipboy kit being modded with LED lights and a Bluetooth speaker, now that I think about it it's this same guy that uploaded the video.
That's perfect!
Could we get some more of these videos about lighting stuff, some with just regular led lights and voltages and really just explain all that so this amount of batteries can power that led and so its really just that. asking for a friend...
super helpful bill keep doing what your doing :)
Thanks so much!
I have a Jimmy Diresta ice pick as well!
Yay! Ice pick buddies! =D
Do you guys have a video on how to get started with LEDs and stuff? It's absolutely fascinating and you explain it so well, but I'd have no idea where to start!
Everything we have on electronics can be found here: punishedprops.com/electronics/
Its nice to see that how u love to work with all those foams and leds and stuff. Keep doing it, i love watching you guys ✌🏻
Awe, thank you! =)
I'm partial to using both series and parallel circuits in my projects.
Oh, and you can setup your battery packs in parallel too. Take 2 of those 3xAAA batter packs and put the positives and negatives together and you'll still have only 4.5 v, but it will last longer now.
just use equally charged / fresh batteries, otherwise that could get nasty
You could have used stripboard/vero for your leads. It’s awesome for prototyping circuits but pretty handy to use as junction buses.
Been catching up on your videos, and really like your props. One thing on this one I'd have done, just for it being a fun thing, is to add a momentary 'trigger' switch on it's own circuit with a single red LED inside the end of the barrel (far enough back to not be seen when off), wired to a CR2032 type battery (as it won't be constant on during a comic con or such).
If you have a problem fitting a battery holder or it needs to be a specific shape, 3D printing it is pretty fast and easy. Its also a nice print as you in general do not need to sand it so much ^^
Oooh I really dig the idea of a custom 3D printed battery holder.
@@punishedprops Yeah, and u can just make it so u can slide in small copper/brass sheets if u need to serial some batteries for example. I made it for a sonic screw driver I made, that needed batteries but is fairly small. Its even better for your own printed props, or casts of them, as you can make them fit perfectly into any shape.
meet the strippers Chastity, Gladys, Angel and Candy
I'm surprised his wife let's him
I can tell you from experience that 3 LR44 batteries (in series) will power a single pretty bright LED for a good 4-5 hours so if space a real concern than those could do in a pinch.
That's great info, thanks!
One thing I tend to do whenever I have too much wire to put together is add in a piece of perfurated board which I can then cover up with electrical tape, the solder tends to be sturdier, it depends on the space you have tho.
Great tip!
i love these videos
Bill, I know that thicker gauge wire you have is easy to solder, but you really can get away with a smaller gauge, which would be a lot easier to bend and squeeze into those cavities at the end...
Cool!
"Lots of options when it comes to strippers" - I'm sure I laughed at the time but it's still funny!
Really digging the montoge music bear the end... Also naming the strippers was key
Oh yeah, that's critical. Gotta name your strippers.
@@punishedprops strippers are tools too!
I learned alot.
That's fantastic!
2:30 just had the thought, that you could try to print some kind of cage for those battery holders, come up with an easy way to slide it in and out... with that you could hide your batteries in a magazine for the gun and change it whenever needed in style.
After some preparation a universal size and mechanism for that could be cool for many other guns, so the clips could be interchangeable (clips as in battery clip, not the magazine... i know the difference, thank you.)
That's a really fantastic idea!
@@punishedprops Time to fire up Fusion360. I'll let you know if I can come up with a solution over the next week
The strippers at the end! I CAN'T! 😩😭😂
I’v been waiting for a LED video from you guys. And you didn’t let me down. Super informativ. Learnt a ton for my next build. Thank you Mr. & Mrs Doran (Love the outro=Lol:)
That's really fantastic! Have fun. =D
Awesome work. I love watching you build such great props with foam. Someone I'll try my very own 😊
Yaaay! Give it a go, you'll have a TON of fun! =D
I like your electronics knowledge :)
Why thank you!
Awesome
Thanks very much!
Try using some circuit board material as bus bars, there is enough room it that to use a microprocessor and do some sequencing fading etc.
Very cool!
Have you considered using soldering flux? It strips away the oxidation formed when metal gets heated and reacts with air, it will allow you're solder to flow better and make for a better, cleaner and properly wetted joint. Just make sure it's an electronics flux like rosin-core, mild-flux or water soluble and some isopropyl alcohol will clean up any leftover flux from you're piece.
I do have some flux for when solder just doesn't want to stick. Super handy!
No Cheat, we did not mount the light switch down there so you could have rave parties!!! Great tutorial, very informative and easy to understand. Thank you for a great video...and that outro...roflmao.
The Cheat... is GROUNDED!
Amazing! I've enjoyed all your builds, but I think this is my favorite. Can't wait until I have my own space to start building things like this. I love the thought of a wall of sci-fi weapons. Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much! =)
I'm currently sick and this is what I'm binging. Can't think of anything else! (Especially with the exotic strippers).
Great video as usual
Sorry to be nit picky....But in electronics the negative (black wire) is considered the common or ground. Positive (Red) is the active side and should the side with the switch.
PS best way to clean the soldering iron (to make it shiny) is to run it across a wet sponge.. when hot.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing.
Your welcome 😆
Another quick tip with Leds - At the base of lens section there is a flat edge on one side...Indicates the (-) negative pin
I'm glad I stayed until the end
Worth it, right?!
the bit at the end killed me XD
My friend made a fallout laser rifle and and 3d printed a fusion cell case for the tri battery case.
That's a great idea!
Please, Please, Please use a resistor (s) when wiring LED's it prevents the LED's from burning out it also prevents possible fires from using too small a wire or over loading the battery. To pick the right resistor you can use this simple formula: (battery voltage - LED voltage) / LED current = resistor value. If are running the LED's in series the LED voltage is all the individual LED voltage added together. If you are running them in parallel the current is all the LED currents added together.
There are multiple variations and parts for this gun within the video game therefore there are a lot of different builds you could do with this gun. I was hoping this would be a DPUH but sadly not
I’m gonna become a patreon soon for you channel
Bill You might like silicone insulated wire for jobs like this. It's more expensive but well worth it for tight areas.It's very flexible and doesn't fight you like normal plastic insulated stranded wire. Adafruit has some you can try out.
Hobby King has good silicone and Teflon wire cheap. They also have a bunch of connectors too.
Splendid! I'll have to get some.
Now I want to bring calipers to every convention I go to.
I bought 100 3v leds on Amazon for under $7. You should check that out, plus then you have another referral link.
nice sanding montage
Nice 👍
Been waiting for this video!! Great information, and answered a lot of questions I had in regards to wiring! Thanks Bill!
You're welcome!
I've been into electronics since I was 10 years old, and well... I'm old so have collected much knowledge. There are a million ways to do things right. For someone that doesn't know much about electronics, this is all good stuff. Careful soldering that close to an LED. Heat can damage parts. Also touching + and - terminals directly from the battery is a bad idea and can cause bad levels of heat & damage.
I've been needing this tutorial for so long!