I’m not trying to stomp on your video, and I haven’t read all of the comments or replies so my comment may be duplicitous, but there were some things that you should have really considered doing. 1st, a question was asked by a viewer about not having rebound after changing the oil in his shocks. A reply to that question was it was ok because these are only “helper” shocks, the springs provide the rebound. On the contrary All silicone oil filled shocks should have rebound, weather they are coil overs or non-coil overs. The “helper” shocks are Traxxas GTR shocks used on other models with single coil over suspension. Springs don’t provide rebound, they provide ride height and absorb harsh impacts on the suspension (carrying the load) at a progressive rate. The shocks provide the dampening rate (how fast or slow the shocks move to full compression or down to full droop) of the suspension. Without dampening and only a compression action on the springs, the suspension would be bouncing uncontrollably. If you had oil in your shocks, but no rebound and it was leaking, merely changing the oil didn’t resolve the lack of dampening. The leak is indicative of worn internals, leaking o-rings, diaphragm, the shock caps not sealing or a combination of all of these. The best solution would to have been rebuild all the shocks, front and rear. By not conducting this routine maintenance on all of the shocks at the same time you will suffer degraded performance and faster wear. The UDR suspension, and most other models are completely tunable to your driving style and type of terrain you are driving the model in, including setting the rebound rate. I didn’t see in the video if you bleed or purged the shocks of air after you refilled them with oil. The primary purpose of the additional GTR shocks is to provide additional dampening. IMHO filling that shock with a higher viscosity oil then the primary coil-over shock is counter intuitive. The heavier oil should be in the coil-over and lighter oil in the GTR. If you think about the design, the coil-over is the shock that carries the load and maintains the ride height because it has a spring, the GTR is only there to assist by providing additional dampening, not carry the load. I hope you can see what I’m getting at here.
Watch the TRAXXAS support front shock removal upload, you only need to remove the front upper bumper mount and a long screw on each side to remove the shock's.
You only had to remove the top part of the front bumper and remove the two very long screws for the top mount's and just the two screws from the lower suspension arm ten minutes tops.
I did the same thing on mine but only had 40wt but it’s a lil thicker then stock. We don’t need no stinking manual,lol but ya I just ordered some thicker oil Incase the 40 is still to light but I think it should be fine. 👍👍👊👊📹📹
Steve Declark I will see how she handles and go from there dude, for my style of driving i need a little more damping in the front so im hoping this will improve it! Cant be worse haha.
May I ask after you upgrade your shock, will it rebound? I also upgrade my shocks, but it will be no rebound after I assemble the shocks. I'm confused for that.
The slave shocks wont rebound anyway or very little, the springed shocks should rebound back if not you may have trapped air in the top and its acting like a vacuum..
Yes they should rebound but they don't there's something wrong. It's not easy. There's definitely technique to it it's just like a real shock if you can press it and it stays compressed there's something wrong
@@jaypearce6199 it's cool dude you didn't have to take the whole front part of their truck apart though you could have just done like four screws and they just pop right out
And I would definitely check all your rebounds on all of them I just did mine last night and they were all fucked up some of them didn't rebound it all Factory is not a way to run these trucks you have to break them down.
You not need to do that mess . 🤣 Takes only 4 large screws n 2 smaller screws to take out the 4 shocks. And that's it's i don't know why you lose to may time 😜
I’m not trying to stomp on your video, and I haven’t read all of the comments or replies so my comment may be duplicitous, but there were some things that you should have really considered doing. 1st, a question was asked by a viewer about not having rebound after changing the oil in his shocks. A reply to that question was it was ok because these are only “helper” shocks, the springs provide the rebound. On the contrary All silicone oil filled shocks should have rebound, weather they are coil overs or non-coil overs. The “helper” shocks are Traxxas GTR shocks used on other models with single coil over suspension. Springs don’t provide rebound, they provide ride height and absorb harsh impacts on the suspension (carrying the load) at a progressive rate. The shocks provide the dampening rate (how fast or slow the shocks move to full compression or down to full droop) of the suspension. Without dampening and only a compression action on the springs, the suspension would be bouncing uncontrollably. If you had oil in your shocks, but no rebound and it was leaking, merely changing the oil didn’t resolve the lack of dampening. The leak is indicative of worn internals, leaking o-rings, diaphragm, the shock caps not sealing or a combination of all of these. The best solution would to have been rebuild all the shocks, front and rear. By not conducting this routine maintenance on all of the shocks at the same time you will suffer degraded performance and faster wear. The UDR suspension, and most other models are completely tunable to your driving style and type of terrain you are driving the model in, including setting the rebound rate. I didn’t see in the video if you bleed or purged the shocks of air after you refilled them with oil. The primary purpose of the additional GTR shocks is to provide additional dampening. IMHO filling that shock with a higher viscosity oil then the primary coil-over shock is counter intuitive. The heavier oil should be in the coil-over and lighter oil in the GTR. If you think about the design, the coil-over is the shock that carries the load and maintains the ride height because it has a spring, the GTR is only there to assist by providing additional dampening, not carry the load. I hope you can see what I’m getting at here.
Watch the TRAXXAS support front shock removal upload, you only need to remove the front upper bumper mount and a long screw on each side to remove the shock's.
Nick Ing dazed & confused, Yeah i know that now lol
Next time, I think you should remove every single screw on the entire truck to change the front tires when they go bald. 🤣
You only had to remove the top part of the front bumper and remove the two very long screws for the top mount's and just the two screws from the lower suspension arm ten minutes tops.
😂 eso pasa por no consultar antes.pero encima hacemos un tutorial jeje
Traxxas si ve esto reira por no llorar. !con lo fácil que es quitarlos!
I did the same thing on mine but only had 40wt but it’s a lil thicker then stock. We don’t need no stinking manual,lol but ya I just ordered some thicker oil Incase the 40 is still to light but I think it should be fine. 👍👍👊👊📹📹
Steve Declark I will see how she handles and go from there dude, for my style of driving i need a little more damping in the front so im hoping this will improve it! Cant be worse haha.
What weight oil comes stock on the UDR, front and rear?
Did it run better with 50?
What viscosity do you use on the rear shocks?
60 in the slaves i think..
Jay Pearce thanks mate!
Herbie-song again!!! yeahhhhhhhhh!! /me happy
May I ask after you upgrade your shock, will it rebound? I also upgrade my shocks, but it will be no rebound after I assemble the shocks. I'm confused for that.
The slave shocks wont rebound anyway or very little, the springed shocks should rebound back if not you may have trapped air in the top and its acting like a vacuum..
Yes they should rebound but they don't there's something wrong. It's not easy. There's definitely technique to it it's just like a real shock if you can press it and it stays compressed there's something wrong
Videos too fast bro if you're trying to show people how to change the shock oil on those things
Was never really meant as a tutorial dude 😎
@@jaypearce6199 it's cool dude you didn't have to take the whole front part of their truck apart though you could have just done like four screws and they just pop right out
And I would definitely check all your rebounds on all of them I just did mine last night and they were all fucked up some of them didn't rebound it all Factory is not a way to run these trucks you have to break them down.
You don't have to take the cage apart to get the shocks out
that's not how to remove the front shock sir, but nvm
You not need to do that mess . 🤣 Takes only 4 large screws n 2 smaller screws to take out the 4 shocks. And that's it's i don't know why you lose to may time 😜
Hi, when I did this the UDR was only just released so there was no how to videos up yet or instructions so I was just winging it lol
500cts in front 450cts in back