Multi-Pitch Descent for Ice Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Smile Mountain Guides shows the full process of descending off multi-pitch ice routes using abalakov’s.
All information on this SMG account is free for your education but it is no substitute for in-person professional training. We offer this as well.
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I like a video that gets the point across clearly without any fluff. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment and glad you like our video. Cheers!
Finally, an ice climbing video with GOOD MUSIC!
Pure knowledge, no bulls**t! Great video, want for more!
Thanks, appreciate your comment. All the best ❤️
The strength in the thread bounce test is surprising, particularly with the nearly horizontal load direction. The anchor + backup for the testing was simple and helpful. I would love to see some ice anchor and thread strength numbers with @HowNOT2 because...science!
Very distinguished with the music compared to us rock rats. Thanks for the video!
Goes well as some background noise but is classic 😉
That is such a great explanation. I was looking for something like for my audience. I will defenetively link your video in mine.
Have been looking for this for a while! Straight forward! Thanks!
Glad ya found it and it was something you enjoyed. Let us know if you’re looking for any else specific. Cheers
Love the music selection
Thanks for sharing ❤️, glad you like it
Well done. 👍🏻👍🏻 from New Hampshire
Thanks you glad you enjoy it !
Easy and amazing lecture
Very good video. Thanks.
Thank you, appreciate the comments ❤️
cool video, and all praise the algorithm!
to be safe, the heaviest climber descendes first, while still being secured by the quad
Certainly!
Ludwig van Beethoven - 6th Symphony. Good choice.
Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need know about and what I observed are your gloves. Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.
I was taught to build abalakov holes horizontally, instead of vertically, because then the rope/cordelette in the hole sits on the column of ice underneath it thus having a stronger support. I think in good conditions the chunk holds pretty well, but I think that it is weaker. With horizontal holes you are transferring only the force pushing the rope out, but the main force if pushing down. What do you think about it?
I think the vertical orientation has been shown to be stronger in testing.
What you’ve shared is a great concept and appreciate your sharing. Horizontal threads are plenty strong. There has been a lot of testing over the years in which orientation, if any, is stronger. A-threads, or a vertical stack, have been tested to have superior strength over any other orientation. Although statistically significant, enough to assert it is stronger, it’s commonly accepted that any orientation is strong enough for rappelling or incorporating into an anchor. The mean for a recent test shares that a horizontal thread is failing at 11.3 kn and 14.4 kn for a vertical thread in the new ice climbing book. How to ice Climb. Both are plenty strong. Thanks for asking and hope this comment helps. ❤️
Thanks for your replies. I have found a paper entitled: "Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis" which provides a proof of it. It seems to be a bit counterintuitive and the fact that the difference is in te order of 4kn makes it even more absurd. Do you know of there are any possible explanation for the strength of this structure? At this point I am curious. Is this possibly related only to ice properties or does it hold also with the rock counterpart (I think that it is called handle bar)?
Is there a chance the rope could be damage due to the sharp corner of ice where the two ice screws meet inside the ice wall?
Good question, in our experience we’ve not heard of any accidents related to this, and also do not think it would be of concern.
Great instructional video, thank you. I like that slim fitting hat under the helmet. What brand is it?
I believe it is the brand Ciele.
And thanks, glad you enjoyed the video
Why are you using a A-thread instead of a V-Thread ?
The vertical orientation of 12 and 6 (clock hand position) has been tested to be slightly stronger than any other thread configuration (3/9 clock hands) assuming the quality of ice is equal. So we’ve demonstrated the ideal here. That said, ice structure plays more of an important role in strength than the configurations on the thread. Hope that adds some context, thanks for asking💯
What belay device is that?
It's the Mammut Alpine Smart, thanks for asking!
great video. how long is the sling you used ?
Thank you, glad you enjoyed this video! We’re using a triple-length sling (180cm) from Petzl called the Pur’Anneau
👌
I cant understand why are you using the Mammut alpine smart belay on the wrong way. There`s any reason?
Thanks for the question, makes descending easier since the plate blocks rope movement in the other direction. Hope that helps!
Great vid, not too much info on this out there for some reason.
Yeah, a tricky one. Hopefully this helps clear some concepts up for folks. Thanks for the comment ❤️
Aren't you scared that the rope is going to freeze inside the v thread and you won't be able to pull it out?
Not really, and the second person can test the likelihood of the rope freezing by making sure it did not freeze by the time the first person makes in down. In about 90% of situations we'll use this "naked thread" since were not concern with the rope freezing. In specific situations, we will leave cord and rappel off the cord to prevent freezing.
Can I get this Isaac guys number? Can't just be me.
prefer abalakov technique
Isnt it abalakov technique?
Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov is credited for the technique of drilling into ice such that two drilled holes would meet as far back into the ice as possible. Building what is known know as the Abalakov aka v-thread. This is a good example of an Abalakov ❤️
Doing a naked thread when water is dripping on the ice is not a good idea.
The water can freeze the rope inside of the thread ... and you are stuck ..!!!
Naked thread is done only when the ice is dry and no water is dripping
😍😊🥰💯😘😇💪🏻❣️
Rope can freez in V :) Trust me....
Yes it can in very specific circumstances. This is a common practice and normally with some checks before the final rappeller goes down, you can make sure it primed for a good pull.
@@smilemountainguides I came to make this exact comment as it was left out of the video, but you guys are on it. A quick pull through in both directions to make sure it hasn't refrozen before the last rappeler is good practice
💘 Promo-SM!!
You ice climbers are crazy, and people thinking caving is dangerous.