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@@climbjay thank you

At around minute 6, they are lowering with a redirect plate. Thanks!

Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video! This was filmed in Eldorado Canyon State Park

Good question, in our experience we’ve not heard of any accidents related to this, and also do not think it would be of concern.

Haha, nice, thanks Max- it was a one carabiner belay escape, see if you can figure it out, plus you still get a ground anchor!

Any time brotha, glad to hear you’re still out teaching- keep it up!

Daisy chain of death

Thanks, Josh for the comment and appreciation of the details!

I’m not sure, but I haven’t heard of a book on these topics

@@smilemountainguides Ok, ill keep on searching thank you for the reply.

Thanks for the questions, hopefully we can add some clarity. The video do accurately show the system and their theoretical mechanical advantage (TMA) which was not expressly shared in the video. All this means is that we are not taking into account of friction in the system and the loss associated with the friction. As for your pulley comment, it's not very clear what your asking for us, however, pulleys would indeed increase the efficiency of the system. Pulley are a form of redirect just more efficient than carabiners. Hopefully this helps and thanks for asking!

Hopefully you’ve found it useful on the trails thanks for sharing on here!

@Smile Mountain Guides I haven't had the chance to practice it in real life. I just practised with rope at home. I hope to use it in the future on my Solo hiking adventures in the swiss alps.

Welcome thanks for watching 💜

😂

Went to our website!

It's an educational video. It was probably much easier to film and instruct on a lower grade. Maybe you meant to watch Free Solo?

@@SammGraemeMartin thanks for this, indeed it is easier to show these techniques on easier terrain. In that same light it’s easier to teach as well. The way we provide security is still the same it more consequential terrain where one could fall

Thank you, in this video we're using a Kong Gi-Gi, a common belay device we use when belaying from the top. We're using this as a common climbing set-up and a situation climbers may find themselves in. Your solution is one of the more efficient if trying to keep the price down, a simple carabiner redirect offer low friction however the micro, specifically the pulley feature, would be our go to if we are looking for maximize efficiency. Hope that helps!

Glad it was helpful thanks for sharing a comment on here 💜

Awesome, glad it helped. Have an answer to the quiz at the end? Happy to help if it was a bit hard to see! Best

@@smilemountainguides oh i missed that completely. hmmmm... im new to this so ill just give it my best shot lol. one on your hand, one on the other side of the grey carabiner, and then one on the other side of the blue carabiner plus another from that other bend in the masterpoint. then past the prussick i would add the one pulling directly. 5:1? might not be right but i tried lol

There can be a time and place for glissading with crampons, fresh and deep snow being top of mind but it still a caution to do so since snagging them can result in some unwanted flips. Still best without in most cases

Thanks for the comment and we're glad you enjoyed the video. All the best

Thanks for the question, makes descending easier since the plate blocks rope movement in the other direction. Hope that helps!

Glad you enjoyed the content and it was insightful. Thanks for giving it a shoutout!

Thanks for sharing would love to get some deeper thoughts on what seems insane. Most of these skills are common in guiding to protect the descent when a rappel is either less possible or for when the team can be protected quickly with other systems. All the best

Thanks for responding. I got no comments on the first three minutes. But for the rest, although possible techniques, I struggle to see me use them. And I do understand they are more normal in overseas guiding, you don't see them in Europe generally. Personally, I would prefer a munter in these type of situations. Also I would never use that "canyoning" hitch there on that terrain. To recap, I wouldn't say that these techniques are unsafe. However they seem long/complicated for the terrain and here in Europe, people would look at you and scratch their head if you were to break out these techniques as a first resort.

No matter how safe & useful your techniques are, there will always be the "Climbing Police"...a group of people who always think their methods are best or your method is wrong. Then feel the need to force their opinion on everyone. This is only thing I find annoying about mountaineering... Keep up the video's please, I find them really useful 👌🏼

It's the Mammut Alpine Smart, thanks for asking!

Not really, and the second person can test the likelihood of the rope freezing by making sure it did not freeze by the time the first person makes in down. In about 90% of situations we'll use this "naked thread" since were not concern with the rope freezing. In specific situations, we will leave cord and rappel off the cord to prevent freezing.

I think the vertical orientation has been shown to be stronger in testing.

What you’ve shared is a great concept and appreciate your sharing. Horizontal threads are plenty strong. There has been a lot of testing over the years in which orientation, if any, is stronger. A-threads, or a vertical stack, have been tested to have superior strength over any other orientation. Although statistically significant, enough to assert it is stronger, it’s commonly accepted that any orientation is strong enough for rappelling or incorporating into an anchor. The mean for a recent test shares that a horizontal thread is failing at 11.3 kn and 14.4 kn for a vertical thread in the new ice climbing book. How to ice Climb. Both are plenty strong. Thanks for asking and hope this comment helps. ❤️

Thanks for your replies. I have found a paper entitled: "Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis" which provides a proof of it. It seems to be a bit counterintuitive and the fact that the difference is in te order of 4kn makes it even more absurd. Do you know of there are any possible explanation for the strength of this structure? At this point I am curious. Is this possibly related only to ice properties or does it hold also with the rock counterpart (I think that it is called handle bar)?