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Smile Mountain Guides
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Добавлен 7 мар 2020
Smile Mountain Guides’ is a small and vibrant guiding service based in the Colorado Front Range, specializing in custom climbing experiences and instructional courses that educate and inspire!
Not only is our team comprised of some of the best teachers in the business focusing on much more than technical skills, but all of our professional guides also have training and certifications through the American Mountain Guide Association in the terrain they work in.
To bring it all together- we care about you and your experiences with us. It’s your day and we’re all fun-loving outdoor enthusiasts who are psyched to share our passions with you!
Welcome!
Not only is our team comprised of some of the best teachers in the business focusing on much more than technical skills, but all of our professional guides also have training and certifications through the American Mountain Guide Association in the terrain they work in.
To bring it all together- we care about you and your experiences with us. It’s your day and we’re all fun-loving outdoor enthusiasts who are psyched to share our passions with you!
Welcome!
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam
A beta video for those interested in the processes of becoming an AMGA-certified alpine guide brought to you by two of Smile's team members, Mike O'Connor and Jeff Mascaro. A snapshot of the third of four programs in the alpine discipline,
Просмотров: 9 115
Видео
Multi-Pitch Descent for Ice Climbing
Просмотров 63 тыс.2 года назад
Smile Mountain Guides shows the full process of descending off multi-pitch ice routes using abalakov’s. All information on this SMG account is free for your education but it is no substitute for in-person professional training. We offer this as well.
The WOW Coils
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.2 года назад
In the mountain environment our route, both the up and down, often, offers a variety of unique challenges we must be ready for. One of those challenges being, how to manage easier and oftentimes loose sections of the route. In our experience it’s common to see climbing parties implementing standard fifth class climbing techniques in and easier 3rd/4th class environment. With a little bit of a m...
Top Belay using a Petzl Reverso
Просмотров 12 тыс.2 года назад
A breakdown of the thoughts and process a leader takes when setting up a belay from the top of a climb. This video demonstrates proper techniques for using the Petzl Reverso. Many other plaquette styled devices have a similar set-up, however, refer to the device manual for specifics.
Ice Climbing Basic: The Tool & Swing
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.3 года назад
We’re doing a little mini series on ice and sharing some techniques. Nothing is ground breaking from these initial videos, which is exactly what we’re going for! The basics count 💯 and are used by everyone; from someone just starting in this sport to high end climbers with years of experience. We’ll be starting with the tool, how it rotates around the hand, how this can impact the swing, and th...
Ellingwood Ledges, The Crestones
Просмотров 5173 года назад
The Ellingwood Arete (also known as Ellingwood Route or Ellingwood Ledges or some combination thereof) is a popular technical climbing route on Crestone Needle in Colorado's Sangre de Cristo Range. The Ellingwood Ledges Route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Albert R. Ellingwood was a pioneering member of the Colorado Mountain Club and the first...
Mechanical Advantage and Hauling Systems by Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 8 тыс.4 года назад
Want to understand mechanical advantage, MA in order to employ hauling systems that work for you strength and situation. Watch, learn, and be quizzed by AMGA Rock Guide, Jeff Mascaro in this fun and informative clip of rope systems and rescue techniques. All information has been peer reviewed by AMGA certified instructors and guides. Leave a comment 👇. Enjoy!
Series 4: Releasing A Loaded Device, Two Ropes
Просмотров 4694 года назад
Series 4: Releasing A Loaded Device, Two Ropes
Series 2: Rope Coiling Techniques and Options
Просмотров 6614 года назад
Series 2: Rope Coiling Techniques and Options
Lead Belaying and Catching a Fall in Climbing
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.4 года назад
Lead Belaying and Catching a Fall in Climbing
Series 2: Managing Fifth Class Climbing Terrain
Просмотров 9424 года назад
Series 2: Managing Fifth Class Climbing Terrain
(ASL Version) Descent Options for Alpine, Third and Forth Class Terrain
Просмотров 8534 года назад
(ASL Version) Descent Options for Alpine, Third and Forth Class Terrain
Descent Options in Alpine, Third, & Fourth Class Climbing Terrain
Просмотров 36 тыс.4 года назад
Descent Options in Alpine, Third, & Fourth Class Climbing Terrain
Ishinca 5530m, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 1944 года назад
Ishinca 5530m, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Smile Mountain Guides
Alpine Climbing Transitions Using the Rope as an Anchor - Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 6 тыс.4 года назад
Alpine Climbing Transitions Using the Rope as an Anchor - Smile Mountain Guides
Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing
Просмотров 37 тыс.4 года назад
Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing
Dragon Tail Couloir, RMNP - Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.4 года назад
Dragon Tail Couloir, RMNP - Smile Mountain Guides
Climbing Colorado’s First Flatiron- Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.4 года назад
Climbing Colorado’s First Flatiron- Smile Mountain Guides
What To Pack for a Multi-Pitch Rock Climb - Smile Mountain Guides
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.4 года назад
What To Pack for a Multi-Pitch Rock Climb - Smile Mountain Guides
Perfect technique
@@climbjay thank you
Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need know about and what I observed are your gloves. Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.
The music is not it haha
Was he lowering on a munter?
At around minute 6, they are lowering with a redirect plate. Thanks!
Good beta
Great video and thank you! Where was this filmed? Looks like a great spot!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video! This was filmed in Eldorado Canyon State Park
Is there a chance the rope could be damage due to the sharp corner of ice where the two ice screws meet inside the ice wall?
Good question, in our experience we’ve not heard of any accidents related to this, and also do not think it would be of concern.
Great video!! 🦫🦫
Ohhh the Petzl Gullyes, they have such a hard time pounding pickets with their plastic head!🥲
One of the best routesI've ever climbed in the alpine! Looks like y'all had a great day
8:1
good to know ima learn this
Why is this shot from so far away?
Easy and amazing lecture
Bravo, Jeff and Mike!
That is such a great explanation. I was looking for something like for my audience. I will defenetively link your video in mine.
First of all, thank you for the videos. but I have a request from you. It would be better if you take the videos a little closer and use the microphone so that your voice can be heard better. Thank you.
First tine here, Loved the sign language!! and channel name! thank you for the content!
I was just telling someone during one of our self rescue courses how you figured out some amazing flashy one handed belay escape haha Sorry to say I can't recall the details of how you did it but I remember you showing me at Safe Harbor.
Haha, nice, thanks Max- it was a one carabiner belay escape, see if you can figure it out, plus you still get a ground anchor!
Love using your vids for season review and prep. Miss climbing with you bro! Hope you guys well. Will hit you up next chance I can when I'm out west, would love it catch up.
Any time brotha, glad to hear you’re still out teaching- keep it up!
what is the name of knot with 6-7 daisy
Daisy chain of death
The way you seamlessly never let go of the brake hand is awesome. Tiny detail, huge consequences.
Thanks, Josh for the comment and appreciation of the details!
Thanks for the show, getting into multi-pitching and it's nice to see a proper rack.
Is there a video or book where they cover this type of "protection" techniques for Class 3-4 but for pople that are doing this scrambles alone?
I’m not sure, but I haven’t heard of a book on these topics
@@smilemountainguides Ok, ill keep on searching thank you for the reply.
Super helpful! I especially liked the idea of progression between risk and protection. This relates to many situations in our life!
Hmmm, with no pulleys used, these are only redirects as far as i know physics... I rebuild the "5:1" system that you showed to haul a 12kg Kettlebell at home and scaled it. had to give it around 5 kg of force. So, my question is: is there any mechanical advantage at all with all the friction? Cause it should be a lot easier to haul if it was 5:1, right?
Thanks for the questions, hopefully we can add some clarity. The video do accurately show the system and their theoretical mechanical advantage (TMA) which was not expressly shared in the video. All this means is that we are not taking into account of friction in the system and the loss associated with the friction. As for your pulley comment, it's not very clear what your asking for us, however, pulleys would indeed increase the efficiency of the system. Pulley are a form of redirect just more efficient than carabiners. Hopefully this helps and thanks for asking!
You answered one of my most epic questions when you did that last solo descent and retrieved the rope.. I often find myself on my own in the middle of nowhere and this technique will definitely be useful to overcome terrain challenges especially when I hike off trails.
Hopefully you’ve found it useful on the trails thanks for sharing on here!
@Smile Mountain Guides I haven't had the chance to practice it in real life. I just practised with rope at home. I hope to use it in the future on my Solo hiking adventures in the swiss alps.
Thanks
Welcome thanks for watching 💜
Terrible sound and too far from camera. Needs to be redone.
😂
Everything is great, thank you for the video! It seems that you have a big angel between anchor legs on the tree, maybe better to use the basket method or smth like that.
Y'all must be from the front range. How can I tell?
Went to our website!
We do it totally different here, but still cool video
this is so unnecessary. Wasting so much time with ropes and bullshit gear on terrain you could have just scrambled down
It's an educational video. It was probably much easier to film and instruct on a lower grade. Maybe you meant to watch Free Solo?
@@SammGraemeMartin thanks for this, indeed it is easier to show these techniques on easier terrain. In that same light it’s easier to teach as well. The way we provide security is still the same it more consequential terrain where one could fall
Hi, great video! I was curious on what you were using at the anchor as a uni-directional pulley. I typically use a prusic and a tending pulley, because I am too cheap to get a micro traction or similar device. do you have a better solution to capturing rope as you haul/assist? Thanks,
Thank you, in this video we're using a Kong Gi-Gi, a common belay device we use when belaying from the top. We're using this as a common climbing set-up and a situation climbers may find themselves in. Your solution is one of the more efficient if trying to keep the price down, a simple carabiner redirect offer low friction however the micro, specifically the pulley feature, would be our go to if we are looking for maximize efficiency. Hope that helps!
👌
you explained a lot of things, this is helpful, thank you man
Glad it was helpful thanks for sharing a comment on here 💜
wow thanks this was really helpful!
Awesome, glad it helped. Have an answer to the quiz at the end? Happy to help if it was a bit hard to see! Best
@@smilemountainguides oh i missed that completely. hmmmm... im new to this so ill just give it my best shot lol. one on your hand, one on the other side of the grey carabiner, and then one on the other side of the blue carabiner plus another from that other bend in the masterpoint. then past the prussick i would add the one pulling directly. 5:1? might not be right but i tried lol
safe to glissade with crampons on in fresh powder?
There can be a time and place for glissading with crampons, fresh and deep snow being top of mind but it still a caution to do so since snagging them can result in some unwanted flips. Still best without in most cases
Really solid explanation of hauling systems. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and we're glad you enjoyed the video. All the best
I cant understand why are you using the Mammut alpine smart belay on the wrong way. There`s any reason?
Thanks for the question, makes descending easier since the plate blocks rope movement in the other direction. Hope that helps!
💘 Promo-SM!!
This is a really helpful video! Cheers 👍🏽
Glad you enjoyed the content and it was insightful. Thanks for giving it a shoutout!
As an European, these techniques seem batshit insane. The are overly complicated and much beter, more efficient systems exist.
Thanks for sharing would love to get some deeper thoughts on what seems insane. Most of these skills are common in guiding to protect the descent when a rappel is either less possible or for when the team can be protected quickly with other systems. All the best
Thanks for responding. I got no comments on the first three minutes. But for the rest, although possible techniques, I struggle to see me use them. And I do understand they are more normal in overseas guiding, you don't see them in Europe generally. Personally, I would prefer a munter in these type of situations. Also I would never use that "canyoning" hitch there on that terrain. To recap, I wouldn't say that these techniques are unsafe. However they seem long/complicated for the terrain and here in Europe, people would look at you and scratch their head if you were to break out these techniques as a first resort.
No matter how safe & useful your techniques are, there will always be the "Climbing Police"...a group of people who always think their methods are best or your method is wrong. Then feel the need to force their opinion on everyone. This is only thing I find annoying about mountaineering... Keep up the video's please, I find them really useful 👌🏼
What belay device is that?
It's the Mammut Alpine Smart, thanks for asking!
to be safe, the heaviest climber descendes first, while still being secured by the quad
Aren't you scared that the rope is going to freeze inside the v thread and you won't be able to pull it out?
Not really, and the second person can test the likelihood of the rope freezing by making sure it did not freeze by the time the first person makes in down. In about 90% of situations we'll use this "naked thread" since were not concern with the rope freezing. In specific situations, we will leave cord and rappel off the cord to prevent freezing.
cool video, and all praise the algorithm!
I was taught to build abalakov holes horizontally, instead of vertically, because then the rope/cordelette in the hole sits on the column of ice underneath it thus having a stronger support. I think in good conditions the chunk holds pretty well, but I think that it is weaker. With horizontal holes you are transferring only the force pushing the rope out, but the main force if pushing down. What do you think about it?
I think the vertical orientation has been shown to be stronger in testing.
What you’ve shared is a great concept and appreciate your sharing. Horizontal threads are plenty strong. There has been a lot of testing over the years in which orientation, if any, is stronger. A-threads, or a vertical stack, have been tested to have superior strength over any other orientation. Although statistically significant, enough to assert it is stronger, it’s commonly accepted that any orientation is strong enough for rappelling or incorporating into an anchor. The mean for a recent test shares that a horizontal thread is failing at 11.3 kn and 14.4 kn for a vertical thread in the new ice climbing book. How to ice Climb. Both are plenty strong. Thanks for asking and hope this comment helps. ❤️
Thanks for your replies. I have found a paper entitled: "Ice Climbing Anchor Strength: An In-Depth Analysis" which provides a proof of it. It seems to be a bit counterintuitive and the fact that the difference is in te order of 4kn makes it even more absurd. Do you know of there are any possible explanation for the strength of this structure? At this point I am curious. Is this possibly related only to ice properties or does it hold also with the rock counterpart (I think that it is called handle bar)?
😍😊🥰💯😘😇💪🏻❣️