In this video I use several welding processes to see which one does best welding directly on steel that has gone through the hot dipped galvanized process.
I developed Dow Chemical’s specification for welding galvanized steel in 1985 as per the requirements of AWS D1.1. And AMSE Sec IX. In a nutshell, burn the galvanizing off all sides of the weldment by at least 2” followed by grinding the ash off to bright metal. At that time all structural steel was coming into our Midland MI plant galvanized so it was obvious a qualified specification needed to be developed. The first serious problem of only grinding off the galvanized was that the zinc contaminated the grinding wheels, smearing the zinc. When zinc is heat to melting it drives into surface imperfections and-as the heat is increased to over 1200*F cracking is caused from the action of the zinc contamination remaining. This was discovered when fitters were bending 3/4” U-bolts from galvanized rod. They ground the galvanizing off visually and heated the rods to bend. During bending these rods ALL CRACKED and BROKE very similar to stress corrosion cracking. When I had the fitters burn the galvanizing off and grind the ash off to bright metal, no cracking occurred!
@@cisnerofam08 if the above spec is followed there is absolutely no problem or concern with weldability or structural integrity using either SMAW or GMAW1
Well done video. I am getting ready to build a retaining wall basically covering rock wall that has been falling apart. I am using 3/8"x 3"x3" 4'-6' tall galvanized angle(posts) I am going to weld to 3/8"x4"x6" galvanized plate(bottom plate). I was a naval shipyard weldor for 25 years and am retired but am confident I can accomplish this. I sold my commercial welding equipment but still own a Maxstar140ST which should suffice for this. As you suggested I will be stick welding after cleaning the material. I purchased some acid to remove the galvanizing where I am welding. Not a good idea to burn any zinc and breath it but sometimes we had to and were instructed to drink milk when we got sick from it. We sometimes worked in tanks with inadequate ventilation and I remember stick welding stainless steel, nickel copper, copper nickel alloys which gave me headaches.
been installing planters around a parking lot for a month and its straight uncleaned galvanized also first time having a job as a welder its been tough but if you just go super slow and shove the electrode into it with some force it works out, moving to regular steel was like butter after this
At one point I did a TON of mig on 14-18g galvanized steel. This is some really nasty stuff. I will definitely never take a job doing anything like that again😂
@@josebangz1874 hey big chief, we only got dem s beams up in this holla, how u b working dem i beams m8? diz s beams be easy as i throw root passes like they nuttin but doin double the werk, nah mate no time for i´s #playaout
I have a job next week where I'm grinding sandblasted galvanized plates to I beams with E7018. I'm guessing grind off the galvanized in the areas that are to be welded?
Im currently welding beams to the column, top bottom flanges and web sll the way around, galvanized steel, and I cant get in there with a regular grinder only with pencil grinder to clean it up and that doesnt do it justice. 5/32-1/8 inch gaps everywhere, it reallt sucks. 7018 rod.... 110ish amps seems to be work the best but its all kaka. ...any tips?) Do you think galvo welding rod would be better? I have welded galvo few times and it was much smoother. Maybe 4 days total worth of welding, 3-4 years ago. Didnt seem this crappy as this project
If you're going to be stick welding i would grab a 6010 and on the areas that you couldn't get the grinder in I would use the 6010 and long arc. This will burn the galvanize off while not depositing any filler/weld. This will hopefully give you a better weld with your 7018.
They got welding this shyt at work again now. Got a huge order for galvanized stuff that needs to be welded. I hate this stuff. It's so toxic. And the fan only blows it around.
@@cisnerofam08 I tried it, it does work well. I am welding a ton of galvanized I beam right now and have just found it easier and cleaner to just blast through the nasty crap with some 6013 rod. I do have a powerful fan setup next to me so I don't breath that nasty stuff.
@cisnerofam08 Right now I am welding frames for a greenhouse from those . Any tips? Yes it sucks. I have to make 2 or more passes as the first one is just a dub dub so no penetration and mostly it won't stick to one side when I weld a T joint. Nightmare!
I am using a Reboot 1550D Mig/Tig/Stick/MMA welder. 220v using my mig flux core 0.30. It only has an Amps dial and the volts and wire speed match on their own, so I’m wondering what do I set my Amps on? I’m welding a trailer ramp and used regular 2x2 angle iron the average size in guessing 1/8 and need to weld the galvanized angle iron in the middle as support since that’s what I have left to the plain angle iron but I keep blowing holes in the galvanized, so what amps or suggestion and how in the world do I fill the holes I burned in the galvanized while trying to weld it to the main frame? Thanks!! Sorry for the novel!
Lincoln LN -25 Flux Core 212 wire 5/64 goes through it like it’s not there and when you start grinding your actually taking the thickness down from your steel a CWI will fail the weld if they know you’ve done this and that weld looks like crap stick welding it total waste of time
Thanks , time to expand my 0.001mm room
Are you welding in a small area?
I developed Dow Chemical’s specification for welding galvanized steel in 1985 as per the requirements of AWS D1.1. And AMSE Sec IX. In a nutshell, burn the galvanizing off all sides of the weldment by at least 2” followed by grinding the ash off to bright metal. At that time all structural steel was coming into our Midland MI plant galvanized so it was obvious a qualified specification needed to be developed. The first serious problem of only grinding off the galvanized was that the zinc contaminated the grinding wheels, smearing the zinc. When zinc is heat to melting it drives into surface imperfections and-as the heat is increased to over 1200*F cracking is caused from the action of the zinc contamination remaining. This was discovered when fitters were bending 3/4” U-bolts from galvanized rod. They ground the galvanizing off visually and heated the rods to bend. During bending these rods ALL CRACKED and BROKE very similar to stress corrosion cracking. When I had the fitters burn the galvanizing off and grind the ash off to bright metal, no cracking occurred!
This is very good input!
@@cisnerofam08 if the above spec is followed there is absolutely no problem or concern with weldability or structural integrity using either SMAW or GMAW1
Excellent video. Very informative and right to the point. How a how-to video should be made
Thank you for watching!!
Great video , great advice. I have some galvanized metal and bolts to weld and your video is extremely helpful. 👍
Well done video. I am getting ready to build a retaining wall basically covering rock wall that has been falling apart. I am using 3/8"x 3"x3" 4'-6' tall galvanized angle(posts) I am going to weld to 3/8"x4"x6" galvanized plate(bottom plate). I was a naval shipyard weldor for 25 years and am retired but am confident I can accomplish this. I sold my commercial welding equipment but still own a Maxstar140ST which should suffice for this. As you suggested I will be stick welding after cleaning the material. I purchased some acid to remove the galvanizing where I am welding. Not a good idea to burn any zinc and breath it but sometimes we had to and were instructed to drink milk when we got sick from it. We sometimes worked in tanks with inadequate ventilation and I remember stick welding stainless steel, nickel copper, copper nickel alloys which gave me headaches.
Its a job I often tried to let someone else accomplish
Im happy that you took the time to get the right mig wire.
Also, thanks for all the information, including trouble shooting.
7018 on AC works amazing for me. I found out by accident I was using it on AC when I thought the weld sounded weird but it seemed to burn so nice
That's an interesting find!?
@@cisnerofam08 its a thermalarc 186i and when do you change processes it automatically starts in AC mode.
Wow, great video! Very professional edit and your welding skills are great
Thank you! This helped a ton!!!
Thank you for watching!!
been installing planters around a parking lot for a month and its straight uncleaned galvanized also first time having a job as a welder its been tough but if you just go super slow and shove the electrode into it with some force it works out, moving to regular steel was like butter after this
Ha I switched to gas shielded mig from stick because I thought it would be easier and cleaner
Great video. Thanks, really appreciate it ❤
Great video. Thank you
Keep'em coming!
👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
At one point I did a TON of mig on 14-18g galvanized steel. This is some really nasty stuff. I will definitely never take a job doing anything like that again😂
I dont blame you, it really is some nasty crap!
Thanks
VERY VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU!!!
thx m8. im currently also welding galvanized steel beams and this vid helped a shit ton xx thx brah 420 boSSS man out #biglivin #ye
Thanks for watching
Good video! Im currently welding on galvanized j beams and its a pain!
Thank you for watching!
I meant * i beams*
@@josebangz1874 hey big chief, we only got dem s beams up in this holla, how u b working dem i beams m8? diz s beams be easy as i throw root passes like they nuttin but doin double the werk, nah mate no time for i´s #playaout
Great experiment thank you
So running flux core worked best… Something to do with the switched polarity?
I have a job next week where I'm grinding sandblasted galvanized plates to I beams with E7018. I'm guessing grind off the galvanized in the areas that are to be welded?
Correct, grind off as much as possible
Im currently welding beams to the column, top bottom flanges and web sll the way around, galvanized steel, and I cant get in there with a regular grinder only with pencil grinder to clean it up and that doesnt do it justice. 5/32-1/8 inch gaps everywhere, it reallt sucks. 7018 rod.... 110ish amps seems to be work the best but its all kaka. ...any tips?) Do you think galvo welding rod would be better? I have welded galvo few times and it was much smoother. Maybe 4 days total worth of welding, 3-4 years ago. Didnt seem this crappy as this project
If you're going to be stick welding i would grab a 6010 and on the areas that you couldn't get the grinder in I would use the 6010 and long arc. This will burn the galvanize off while not depositing any filler/weld. This will hopefully give you a better weld with your 7018.
They got welding this shyt at work again now. Got a huge order for galvanized stuff that needs to be welded. I hate this stuff. It's so toxic. And the fan only blows it around.
Open your shop door. Look into using muriatic acid to prep your weld area
Why drag with MIG for the tests? I understand if it was gasless but you said you ran it with gas so should be pushing right? (@4m43s)
I did try it using both methods but in order to keep the video short, I only showed the best one.
@@cisnerofam08 , understood, thank you
Thoughts on removing the galvanizing with muriatic acid first?
That's an interesting concept, I personally haven't used it.
@@cisnerofam08 I tried it, it does work well. I am welding a ton of galvanized I beam right now and have just found it easier and cleaner to just blast through the nasty crap with some 6013 rod. I do have a powerful fan setup next to me so I don't breath that nasty stuff.
On one of my first site jobs atm welding vertical galvanized steel and its absolutely miserable.
Try welding 1.2 mm square tubing 50x50 mm. Let's see of you gonna grind it still
Welding thin material can be tricky, now needing to weld thin galvanized square tubing would definitely suck.
@cisnerofam08 Right now I am welding frames for a greenhouse from those . Any tips? Yes it sucks. I have to make 2 or more passes as the first one is just a dub dub so no penetration and mostly it won't stick to one side when I weld a T joint. Nightmare!
@alexeyorlov9639 all I can suggest is put some extra time on prep work.
@cisnerofam08 OK. But what kind of prep ? I can't possibly grind it. Flop disc ?
Yes you can use a Flap disk or grinding wheel, I would try and remove as much galvanize material as possible before welding
I am using a Reboot 1550D Mig/Tig/Stick/MMA welder. 220v using my mig flux core 0.30.
It only has an Amps dial and the volts and wire speed match on their own, so I’m wondering what do I set my Amps on?
I’m welding a trailer ramp and used regular 2x2 angle iron the average size in guessing 1/8 and need to weld the galvanized angle iron in the middle as support since that’s what I have left to the plain angle iron but I keep blowing holes in the galvanized, so what amps or suggestion and how in the world do I fill the holes I burned in the galvanized while trying to weld it to the main frame? Thanks!! Sorry for the novel!
Start with 80 amps and go down from there if holes keep popping out. Only do quick beads the metal is thiner
try some tig aswell
That may be a disaster waiting to happen! I might just add it
If you push its better I think. For me anyways.
Shit... It's like this guy read my mind 😂
Lincoln LN -25 Flux Core 212 wire 5/64 goes through it like it’s not there and when you start grinding your actually taking the thickness down from your steel a CWI will fail the weld if they know you’ve done this and that weld looks like crap stick welding it total waste of time
Lmao I'm working for a high end shop now that requires me to burn THROUGH the galvanized coating...
I would hate to be on that job!
I think most of your issue is you pulling your nozzle instead of pushing it when doing the mig process
I ended up doing both methods, pulling/pushing but in order to keep the video short I only showed one. Same mess for both