I don't believe you are reaming the ridge caused by ring wear in the top of the cylinders you are just removing carbon. When ridge reaming is required there is metal that needs to be removed a razor blade won't do that.
This is great advice. I have a very thin ridge in an old SBC... mostly carbon. I was going to get a ridge reamer, but this just talked me out of it. 9x outta 10, or better, when I think I can, I can... ...meaning something like your common sense approach is usually better. I've read or viewed too much on the disaster side of using a ridge reamer vs. expected results. Thanks for this!!!
You were using a reamer that spreads out down in the bore and the cutter comes up as you turn it on its real fine thread center bolt. That kind works great if you have flat top pistons to set the tool base on to make sure it's in line with the bore. If you have dome top pistons or have knocked the pistons on out, then that type cutter is a pain in the ass to get lined up. In that case you need a Lisle 36500 reamer that has 3 pieces that expand in the cylinder, 2 with rollers on them and one with a cutter. You just tighten the center bolt to expand the 3 pieces to get some tension in the bore, and then turn the whole thing with the outer larger hex. Keeping pressure on the tool to keep the 3 ears that hang over the top and ride on the block surface where the head gasket sits.
My method was to use a flex hone well lubed with motor oil. Careful if you try it with he pistons instlled. Don't want to cause them damage if being reused.
My 1973 motor Has a Pretty Big Ridge.. I Tried a Razor Blade,.. but its To Hard... it Doesn't do anything To the Ridge Ring.. I might Have to Get a hold Of a Reamer.. though The block Isn't Being used again.. I got to Get the Pistons Out to Get the Rods off the Pistons.. Bc the Rods will be used in Another Block.. well.. Since I'm stuck in the mud atm.. I am just Cleaning up the Shop..
couldnt u tape off the cylinder right under the ridge, then take some 220 grit wet sand paper and go around the ridge until its somewhat smooth.. im thinking once the tri stone goes in, it should round out the ridge and let the hone do its thing?
I'm sure you could us sand paper. 220+ grit. Just be careful not to remove metal from cylinder. I just found it easier to use some razor blades since I had several packs on hand.
Why must the edge be reamed anyway? Don't the rings flex as u push piston out carefully? And if u put new rings on and aren't honing the cylinders will it damage them if it isn't reamed first? I've done it before (not reamed) and had no issues that I knew of but am curious on why it must be done and if it's truly a big deal if u don't ? Thanks for any input
Hey man I hate to tell you but your not reaming the ridge from the ring wear..your just cleaning the carbon.. reaming actually cuts metal..you could do this in many other ways
WD-40 and steel wool and a rag IS NOT GOING TO REMOVE A RIDGE OF METAL. It might remove some carbon. If that's all your motor needed, it didn't need anything done. Just run a hone up and down in it to get some cross hatching and clean it up.
![Quando Rondo - Life Goes On [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eIf3fhMXAow/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't believe you are reaming the ridge caused by ring wear in the top of the cylinders you are just removing carbon. When ridge reaming is required there is metal that needs to be removed a razor blade won't do that.
This is great advice. I have a very thin ridge in an old SBC... mostly carbon. I was going to get a ridge reamer, but this just talked me out of it.
9x outta 10, or better, when I think I can, I can... ...meaning something like your common sense approach is usually better. I've read or viewed too much on the disaster side of using a ridge reamer vs. expected results.
Thanks for this!!!
You were using a reamer that spreads out down in the bore and the cutter comes up as you turn it on its real fine thread center bolt. That kind works great if you have flat top pistons to set the tool base on to make sure it's in line with the bore. If you have dome top pistons or have knocked the pistons on out, then that type cutter is a pain in the ass to get lined up. In that case you need a Lisle 36500 reamer that has 3 pieces that expand in the cylinder, 2 with rollers on them and one with a cutter. You just tighten the center bolt to expand the 3 pieces to get some tension in the bore, and then turn the whole thing with the outer larger hex. Keeping pressure on the tool to keep the 3 ears that hang over the top and ride on the block surface where the head gasket sits.
It worked well just now on a 13hp honda engine. Thanks.
My method was to use a flex hone well lubed with motor oil. Careful if you try it with he pistons instlled. Don't want to cause them damage if being reused.
My 1973 motor Has a Pretty Big Ridge.. I Tried a Razor Blade,.. but its To Hard... it Doesn't do anything To the Ridge Ring.. I might Have to Get a hold Of a Reamer.. though The block Isn't Being used again.. I got to Get the Pistons Out to Get the Rods off the Pistons.. Bc the Rods will be used in Another Block.. well.. Since I'm stuck in the mud atm.. I am just Cleaning up the Shop..
couldnt u tape off the cylinder right under the ridge, then take some 220 grit wet sand paper and go around the ridge until its somewhat smooth.. im thinking once the tri stone goes in, it should round out the ridge and let the hone do its thing?
I'm sure you could us sand paper. 220+ grit. Just be careful not to remove metal from cylinder. I just found it easier to use some razor blades since I had several packs on hand.
Thanks for posting this... I'm going to try this on my motor!
You're welcome and thanks for watching my video!
Why must the edge be reamed anyway? Don't the rings flex as u push piston out carefully? And if u put new rings on and aren't honing the cylinders will it damage them if it isn't reamed first? I've done it before (not reamed) and had no issues that I knew of but am curious on why it must be done and if it's truly a big deal if u don't ? Thanks for any input
Well a ridge definitely cannot cut a team, a scotch Brit pad does this way more efficiently. I also use a medium wire wheel on my drill.
Hey man I hate to tell you but your not reaming the ridge from the ring wear..your just cleaning the carbon.. reaming actually cuts metal..you could do this in many other ways
Also, a bottle brush would take that off as well
👍👍👍👍👍
Too complicated ..... steel wool , wd-40 , wiping rag .... your done !
WD-40 and steel wool and a rag IS NOT GOING TO REMOVE A RIDGE OF METAL. It might remove some carbon. If that's all your motor needed, it didn't need anything done. Just run a hone up and down in it to get some cross hatching and clean it up.