Glad to see the FR3 nano stuff on your bench. Being using it on my fleet and so far I have no complaint. and seams to help in the cold temps. Really appreciate your videos Rich. Cheers.
@FordBossMe I think to make the tests a little more accurate and consistent. Maybe pick up some Plastic Graduated Cups, 30ml/1oz Clear Scale Cups with the wooden stirring sticks. This way you can measure and mix then pour them in the wheel pan. can also make a spread sheet to keep track of what each one does. And it will be easier to calculate how much additive you should add per 1oz cup.
This is another example, but certainly not the only example, of products that when used according to the instructions may actually be diluting or lowering the lubricity of an otherwise excellent motor oil. Schaeffer's is very good oil, so to see this test is very revealing. Thank you Rich. I love these videos/video series. God bless you and your family.
I’m glad your making these videos about prolube I can’t find many about it and my cammed 5.3 has a lifter tick and I’ve been using moblie 1 and Lucas oil and was thinking about switching to shell rotella 5w30 with pro lube but not sure what I would do
I have always worried about upsetting the delicate chemistry of the engine oil with additives. I figured if the oil engineers thought these additives would have improved their oil and made it superior they would already have put it in.
I can buy house paint at DG or Sherwin Williams….both are paint…but one is not like the other. I can add product to the cheap stuff to improve it. I feel the same about oil & additives. Thanks for the new tests Rich
I’d imagine some of these additives are “snake oils” …might do a little bit of good but is it worth the money like you said. I’m really curious to see how Hot Shot additives do and the other lucas oil treatment ..
Ive been using the LLV with castrol edge 0w20 in my civic coupe 1.5t for 2 years now. I like to think its doing something 😂. I live in VT where winter sucks. Mornings can be 0°F or lower. I also do my oil changes every 3500 miles though. I do know my engine runs very well though. Oh and I use the entire bottle. Been looking to try something new.
Help! You seem very honest in your videos. I took my daughters 2009 camry to the toyota dealership today because it is running rough and leaking oil. Charged $190 for diagnostic test and they were still unsure if it was a head gasket problem or cracked engine. Quotes for head gasket 4k and cracked engine upwards of 8k! The car has only 144k miles. It still drives... I am thinking my dealership is a stealership... thoughts please.
Please explain? I have done simple car repairs before. How would UV dye confirm head gasket or cracked engine. I would appreciate any info. Your channel is awesome!
Get a combustion leak tester at any auto parts place 20 bucks the head gasket if bad will either leak combustion gas into the cooling passages or into the oil
@@davidbrodeur50 The UV dye will illuminate the oil when you use a UV lamp. You'll be able to see where it's coming from (spiderweb/cracks versus just around a gasket). As Jonschwartz stated below, you can get a combustion gas test kit for your cooling system to narrow down if it's a head issue versus a valve cover or pan gasket leak. Also check the oil to see if it looks like a McD's chocolate milkshake which indicates coolant mixing with oil (probably need an engine then unless you catch it very early). The big question is did the car overheat, and if so, how bad/long? If it just got to the hot mark and she shut it down you might have just burned a plug or weakened coil or maybe damaged the head gasket. If it was driven until it was ticking or shut down, then the head is likely warped and/or cracked. Engine blocks don't usually crack as the aluminum heads will go South way before the iron block lets go. If it wasn't ever overheated or otherwise abused, it's really not that common for a Camry to blow a HG (although it can happen to any car). You might get lucky with the UV dye. If you have a really bad valve cover gasket leak it might just be soaking a plug galley and shorting the coil voltage and causing a misfire. You need a scan tool to see if it's misfiring, and on what cylinder(s), or if there are other codes. It's all a big puzzle that's impossible to diagnose without hard data and careful inspection. You might need to find a different shop if the dealer couldn't do most of that as part of the diagnostic, although for some things they might need more time as the leak may be hidden and require some disassembly to inspect thoroughly. It is possible you have two or more different issues, an oil leak and a bad coil/plug or drive circuit.
I'm no mechanic but I think these additives are all snake oil "no pun intended" Motor oils have additive packages in them. I wonder if you could add that stuff to your geas tank like Marvel Mystery Oil for some upper cylinder lubrication?
For the 2018 3.5 eco whats the best oil i run pennzoil ultraplatinum or whatever it is i am just over 100k miles though what are your thoughts on oil type and also whats the deal with this lucas stuff worth the time?
One thing I'd really be curious to see is how any regular oil performs at/near freezing, room temperature and hot (operating temp) since it's multi-viscosity based on temperature. I've always wondered if really thickens up at temperature or how it all works.
I have 2 old vehicles with 80s rebuilt engines. The builder uses amsoil and swears by it in all his vehicles Fromm your climate. But I live in a climate that rarely gets below 40 degrees. In this humid, warm climate, what would you recommend?
Fluid ounces are measured by volume, not weight. You don't have to use a scale to measure fluid ounces. Instead, you can measure fluid ounces with a measuring cup. A one-cup measuring cup holds 8 fluid ounces, so 1 ounce would be 1/8 of a cup.
got any of the Franken oil from your old truck to test on that rig,maybe save all the used oil from all these new test ,& try a Franken oil 2.0 & see the results
Idk But that heavy oil stabilizer by Lucas in the white bottle mixed 40% of the oil capacity is good My vehicles seem to do better with that that just straight regular oil
Bg moa is a magnesium for neutralizing acidic oil Moa is used after the engine flush epr is used to neutralize the acid that never got out and it coats the moving metal components Moa isn't something I use as a normal additive
Glad to see the FR3 nano stuff on your bench. Being using it on my fleet and so far I have no complaint. and seams to help in the cold temps. Really appreciate your videos Rich. Cheers.
@FordBossMe I think to make the tests a little more accurate and consistent. Maybe pick up some Plastic Graduated Cups, 30ml/1oz Clear Scale Cups with the wooden stirring sticks. This way you can measure and mix then pour them in the wheel pan. can also make a spread sheet to keep track of what each one does. And it will be easier to calculate how much additive you should add per 1oz cup.
That's a great idea
For someone who doesn't run a business and RUclips channel and a family lol
I have no time
Plus this is close enough to accurate
This is another example, but certainly not the only example, of products that when used according to the instructions may actually be diluting or lowering the lubricity of an otherwise excellent motor oil. Schaeffer's is very good oil, so to see this test is very revealing. Thank you Rich. I love these videos/video series. God bless you and your family.
Cool test, that lucas stuff was not all it was cracked up to be. Very interesting. Looking forward to more of these! Have a good night Rich and fam!
Waiting for the FR3. I ran it in my Cummins and also added it to the power steering fluid.
Good info.
Found that the full syn Lucas. (gear oil style bottle). Makes my 2.7 quieter.
The semi syn lucas is great for my 318.
Anyway
I’m glad your making these videos about prolube I can’t find many about it and my cammed 5.3 has a lifter tick and I’ve been using moblie 1 and Lucas oil and was thinking about switching to shell rotella 5w30 with pro lube but not sure what I would do
I have always worried about upsetting the delicate chemistry of the engine oil with additives. I figured if the oil engineers thought these additives would have improved their oil and made it superior they would already have put it in.
That's an assumption
Not necessarily...most are engineered for certain performance at a certain price point ...
I can buy house paint at DG or Sherwin Williams….both are paint…but one is not like the other. I can add product to the cheap stuff to improve it. I feel the same about oil & additives. Thanks for the new tests Rich
@@dr.john-markcain4946 try some Emulsa Bond in your paint. .it is like adding super glue to your paint.
@@john-dz6wkso are we to assume you are correct?
Next do straight Lucas the old thick stuff, see what it can do,Thanks!!
I’d imagine some of these additives are “snake oils” …might do a little bit of good but is it worth the money like you said.
I’m really curious to see how Hot Shot additives do and the other lucas oil treatment ..
Good test and great info. The little machine is impressive. Thanks for the info.
Ive been using the LLV with castrol edge 0w20 in my civic coupe 1.5t for 2 years now. I like to think its doing something 😂. I live in VT where winter sucks. Mornings can be 0°F or lower. I also do my oil changes every 3500 miles though. I do know my engine runs very well though. Oh and I use the entire bottle. Been looking to try something new.
Help! You seem very honest in your videos. I took my daughters 2009 camry to the toyota dealership today because it is running rough and leaking oil. Charged $190 for diagnostic test and they were still unsure if it was a head gasket problem or cracked engine. Quotes for head gasket 4k and cracked engine upwards of 8k! The car has only 144k miles. It still drives... I am thinking my dealership is a stealership... thoughts please.
You would have to add a uv oil die to verify
Please explain? I have done simple car repairs before. How would UV dye confirm head gasket or cracked engine. I would appreciate any info. Your channel is awesome!
Get a combustion leak tester at any auto parts place 20 bucks the head gasket if bad will either leak combustion gas into the cooling passages or into the oil
I’d like to see what MMO Synthetic in some 5W30 can do!
@@davidbrodeur50 The UV dye will illuminate the oil when you use a UV lamp. You'll be able to see where it's coming from (spiderweb/cracks versus just around a gasket). As Jonschwartz stated below, you can get a combustion gas test kit for your cooling system to narrow down if it's a head issue versus a valve cover or pan gasket leak. Also check the oil to see if it looks like a McD's chocolate milkshake which indicates coolant mixing with oil (probably need an engine then unless you catch it very early). The big question is did the car overheat, and if so, how bad/long? If it just got to the hot mark and she shut it down you might have just burned a plug or weakened coil or maybe damaged the head gasket. If it was driven until it was ticking or shut down, then the head is likely warped and/or cracked. Engine blocks don't usually crack as the aluminum heads will go South way before the iron block lets go.
If it wasn't ever overheated or otherwise abused, it's really not that common for a Camry to blow a HG (although it can happen to any car). You might get lucky with the UV dye. If you have a really bad valve cover gasket leak it might just be soaking a plug galley and shorting the coil voltage and causing a misfire. You need a scan tool to see if it's misfiring, and on what cylinder(s), or if there are other codes. It's all a big puzzle that's impossible to diagnose without hard data and careful inspection.
You might need to find a different shop if the dealer couldn't do most of that as part of the diagnostic, although for some things they might need more time as the leak may be hidden and require some disassembly to inspect thoroughly. It is possible you have two or more different issues, an oil leak and a bad coil/plug or drive circuit.
what about Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer ? And Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer ?
Wonder what Schaeffers Moly EP would do?
That is a much better respected additive, at least you know whats in it.
That stuff is thick..like old STP...with extra molybdenum...
Another awesome video Rich 👍
I'm no mechanic but I think these additives are all snake oil "no pun intended"
Motor oils have additive packages in them. I wonder if you could add that stuff
to your geas tank like Marvel Mystery Oil for some upper cylinder lubrication?
For the 2018 3.5 eco whats the best oil i run pennzoil ultraplatinum or whatever it is i am just over 100k miles though what are your thoughts on oil type and also whats the deal with this lucas stuff worth the time?
One thing I'd really be curious to see is how any regular oil performs at/near freezing, room temperature and hot (operating temp) since it's multi-viscosity based on temperature. I've always wondered if really thickens up at temperature or how it all works.
I have 2 old vehicles with 80s rebuilt engines. The builder uses amsoil and swears by it in all his vehicles Fromm your climate. But I live in a climate that rarely gets below 40 degrees. In this humid, warm climate, what would you recommend?
Fluid ounces are measured by volume, not weight. You don't have to use a scale to measure fluid ounces. Instead, you can measure fluid ounces with a measuring cup. A one-cup measuring cup holds 8 fluid ounces, so 1 ounce would be 1/8 of a cup.
Have you ever tested napa full synthetic oil? Is it any good ? What's it comparable to?
got any of the Franken oil from your old truck to test on that rig,maybe save all the used oil from all these new test ,& try a Franken oil 2.0 & see the results
Idk
But that heavy oil stabilizer by Lucas in the white bottle mixed 40% of the oil capacity is good
My vehicles seem to do better with that that just straight regular oil
Must be a slight synergistic effect...
Good video
Have you ever tried with with BG MOA? Do you think MOA is worth it in high end oils like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?
Bg moa is a magnesium for neutralizing acidic oil
Moa is used after the engine flush epr is used to neutralize the acid that never got out and it coats the moving metal components
Moa isn't something I use as a normal additive
@@FordBossMe Well BG shows it protecting treated engine even after the oil is removed.
ruclips.net/video/mLUoKKLE6k4/видео.htmlsi=lTeB3KagllGKeCSG
Sea foam, I've used before.
Guess it was too good to be true?? It was 10W30 Cerma by the way not 5W30. It's a good Video against AMSOIL.
I wonder how Archoil would do .
Brother's....when Oil reaches beyond its capabilities. The Heat and friction becomes your engine's worst bad friend.
I Know. Nitro Joe.
maybe it just needs to be warmer to work
No that's not how the stuff works buddy