How to Bezel Set A Cabochon Gemstone - Start to Finish - (2018)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- In this video i will show you how to bezel set a cabochon gemstone in a sterling silver ring. Here is a link to the tool list - gotcharocks.co...
How do you bezel set a cabochon stone in a ring?
Stone setting seems to be an elusive skill to many jewelers, new and old. There are many ways to set a stone. They include prong setting, bezel setting, bead setting, flush setting and combinations of both.
If I had to pick just one important factor in setting stones (and there are many) I'd go with how well the stone sits in the mounting. Making a good seat for the stone will mean the difference between success and failure. This goes for a cabochon cut stone and a faceted stone. If your stone is rocking back and forth in the mounting it will make it difficult to set.
Here's a good rule. Look at the back of your stone. If it's flat, in the case of a cabochon, how flat is it? If you really look at it closely it may actually be curved. Match that curve in your mounting. Sometimes that is achieved using setting burs and sometimes it is done using ball burs. Basically use whatever you have to get that seat cut to match the back of the stone.
This goes for faceted stones also. Does the stone's pavilion come to a point like a diamond or is it round like many other gemstones?. The seat for the stone needs to match the back of the stone.
In this video I'll show you how to bezel set a cabochon gemstone in a sterling silver ring.
This is a step by step process showing how to prep your bezel for setting the stone, the process for hammering the bezel over the gemstone and a tool list.
I made this video with close up shots so you can watch the entire stone setting process. It's worth it to watch the entire video. There are a few little techniques that you may not know. I hope this helps a few people.
Every stone I set is slightly different so get to know your stone and take your time before you start hammering it into place.
Leave me a comment or question and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
Don't forget to sign up for the mailing list to your right to get the latest posts.
All the best,
Michael Seiler
You may want to revise your method of setting the stone. Instead of cutting the bezel down, you set the stone higher. The Navajo have been doing it for more than a century There are several things to use to do that. One them is to use fairly fine sawdust, I use pencil shavings from an old pencil sharpener. Simply put some sawdust into the cavity so that the stone sits at the desired height.. When testing to see it is, it's a good idea to lay a string of dental floss across the cavity and the press in the stone. That way you can easily remove it until you get the depth the way you want it. That way is much quicker, and more importantly you don't lose any of the design..
Such a pretty [cast] setting, I think a bearing inside would be a beautiful way to keep the height of the setting and show the gorgeous stone too. Love this video, really great to see the hammer setting. Thanks so much.
Is that Jessite or kaleyite (spelling?) from John Heusler? Looks familiar, I received some exquisite cabs from him a few years ago when it first came out.
A fabulous, detailed and complete answer, I am so grateful to you Michael. "Thanks" is just too small.
Hi, I'm so grateful for this detailed video. I have a question about the final stages of bezel setting; I have found that frequently the actual edge of the metal that touches the cab is not smooth and rounded a bit, it's choppy and as though the edge was just too much of a knife edge, it looks sloppy. I don't usually use a file for the final leveling, I use sandpaper with the bezel surface face down on it, even to 400-600 grit. THEN, I still have gouges from the setting process in the thinned upper edge of the bezel. How do we get a snug fit on the bezel, a clean edge all around, and no bumpy junk on the outside of the bezel when done, after all the bezel wire is thin (on purpose so that it bends over the cab). Unless I use a thick STERLING bezel (26g), then seriously hammer set it, and then file, file, file, it's a tough job. What's the trick? Thanks heaps, I'm slurping up every bit of teaching, there's no schools here and I am self-taught on RUclips!
After you level it slowly start setting the stone. Dont push to much of the metal over the stone at one time. Just do a little bit and if you have to go around in circles a bunch of times that just fine. When the metal gets close to the stone use your burnisher to smooth the edge down. Tip: Don't push very hard with your burnisher. Nice and easy pressure wins the race.
After the burnisher I sometimes have to hammer the metal down a little bit more but if I burnished first I get a very nice edge. Those stone safe rubber wheels will smooth things out a bit also. Remember to grind down the sharp edge on the rubber wheel to make it a little more blunt.
Hope this helps.
Michael Seiler
Wew, what a difficult work. Thanks for video!
You are welcome 😊
Thank you. Q: What gauge metal was used to create the ring? After taking down the bezel, approximately how thick of a gauge is the thinned bezel? Interesting that you did not ascribe to the N-S-E-W approach to setting the stone. Is that because the bezel may be a little thicker than some? I appreciate all the help I can get…
BEST VIDEO EVER
Skip to 14:40, if you are interested in just seeing the bezel being hammered over the stone. To make the bezel move easier see the bezel prepping at the beginning of the video.
How did u set the bezel to make it look like a box ring? 🤔 is it kinda like a signet ring just with an oval bezel on top?
Oh I wrote that as I paused the start of the video, an next line u said it wS a casting haha I should have watched befor I asked my question lol.. It's a nice lookin ring, I was Goin to try a box ring similar to this for an oval opal ring
Skip to 5:00, to see the prep technique to make the bezel move a little easier during the setting process.
Yo le hubiera puesto una calza abajo de la piedra para no rebajar tanto el bicel al grado de dañar el diseño del anillo
Luis Herrera Hola, es una buena idea. Gracias por comentar Todo lo mejor, Michael
Excellent video, thanks
Thank you 😊
Skip to 19:25, to see how to create a beautiful edge around the stone using a burnisher.
Awesome bezel stone setting awesome video thank you
Expecting precious stones bezels setting
Bezel wire is usually 28-30g (why do they sell that as the "basic" common bezel wire)? , that could be the problem. Your piece is a casting, probably far thicker. At 15:50 we see a LOT of bumpy divots (and there's no way a bezel rocker could do what you're doing), BTW, it looks like ocean jasper now. Do you use a hand chasing tool over a hammer hand-piece for a reason? Or, is there a time (and circumstance) that you would use one over the other (please elaborate - and thank you IMMENSELY)? Zam is between Tripoli and rouge? What is "stone safe (rubber wheels)? I have been warned against so-called "stone-safe". This video is for SURE, the very best in-depth video on this process that I have found on YT. You have answered SO MANY questions that have been left un-answered or less wonderfully explained (I don't want to say "poorly" to all those people trying to share their expertise - teaching is not easy), I thank you heartily. I am watching your channel with a very close eye. You teach VERY well, and I, for one, am incredibly grateful (I know, I'm gushing...., just happy to receive this help!)
Hey Gabby,
Bezel wire is usually sold in a thinner gage because it is easier to push over the stone. It is often fine silver as well for the same reason. I am a big fan of a very thick bezel as you can see in my ring. Even when I fabricate a piece I make my bezel around 1mm - 1.5mm thick. Its just how I like to do it. I think it looks more refined if that makes any sense.
If you are running into the bumpy edge it can mean two things. One, it could be that there is to much metal being pusher over the stone. Two, It could be that the edge is to thin causing to much metal to go over the stone at one time. This is another reason I like a thick bezel. another good practice is to make sure the top is leveled. You can use sand paper or a file to do this.
Which leads to the next question should you use a hammer hand piece or a chasing tool and hammer. I use a hammer hand piece for smaller stones that are around 4mm or smaller. I really like the chasing tool and hammer for larger stones it gives me the control over how much metal I push over at a time. The hammer hand piece can bang over to much metal or not enough depending on the type of setting. I sometimes use the hand piece if I need to hold my jewelry with my hand during setting. The short answer is I use both :)
Zam is a polish that will bring you metal to a high polish without having to go through two steps. I gave up on tripoli and rouge after I found it.
Rubber polishing wheels - There are many out there that are not stone safe. Actually most are not stone safe. This means they can damage you stone. Stone safe rubber wheels are not likely to hurt your stones. That being said always check on a junk stone before using on a finished piece. Here is the number to what I use #332-721, I like the 22mm size, they are from Rio Grande. Most jewelers I know don't know the difference between the stone safe and not stone safe. I had to learn to uses them on a regular basis with opal inlay repair and custom opal jewelry. There is so much to know and if it doesn't come up people don't get to learn it. I think you will have great luck with them and they may turn into your secret jewelry weapon. :)
I almost forgot that stone is a Thomsonite from Grand Marais, Minnesota.
Thanks for all your kind words. I really tried to make sure people could see the whole setting process. I am glad it is helping explain the stone setting process. I have always found that I could pick up a great deal by just observing, so I am glad it is working.
All the best,
Michael Seiler
2.5 halved is 1.25 not 1.75, no? But this is wonderful thqnk you!
LOL. Yes you're right. I better get myself a calculator. 😀
I've seen similar style rings created from wax that have holes through the setting, under the stone. Yours doesn't. What's the purpose of that--and do I need to do it?
you add a hole underneath clear stones to allow for cleaning in some cases and to allow light through in others. but with opaque stones like jasper or onyx, a hole underneath isn't necessary.
Great work and video, not a lot of videos out there covering the actual process of bending the bezel wall over. Especially with a hammer and not just a bezel pusher. Surprised you didn't have to alternate positioning to opposite sides between the bends.
It'd probably burnish the bezel edge with a hand burnisher before the wheel still. It's the one that's shaped like a curved oyster shucking knife. It would work a lot better than that point.
Thank you. I always try to start at one side and work my way around the bezel. I find that it gives a more consistent finish. I do use different burnishers depending on what I am working on. I really do like using the point burnisher to burnish a small amount of metal onto the stone. LOL, Just don't touch the stone when your doing it. Right? :) I alway tell people to try different types to tools and techniques to become a well rounded goldsmith or silversmith. As you know you get good at what you practice. All the best, Michael
Right. I even prefer anything other than a flat bezel edge just because it's so much more work to push over and burnish clean. Give me serrated or gallery wire any time. I just broke a $100 fire opal by pushing the bezel wall over and it flint napped the bottom over 20 times. Was too thick for the opal's cut...
The ring you featured, really nice stone and setting will last a life time. The band designs match the stone well.
Thank you for this video it is very helpful. I am just starting out making bezels and rings in wax. Is there a certain thickness one should aim to make the bezel when working with wax?
I will tell you how I like to do it. I make my bezels in wax at one millimeter thick. On the ring that I am doing in the video I made that one 1.5mm thick. I like to have enough to trim it down a little bit. That being said I like a thick-looking bezel on my rings. Let me know if that helps. Thank you for commenting. :)
@@GotchaRocksJewelryDIY Yes that is useful information that I will try to put into practice. Thank you for your response.
It's beautiful! Great demonstration! Thanks!
Thanks! Stay tuned I am working on a few new demos. All the best, Michael
Absolutely great video. Can you say why you didn’t start setting your stone with the traditional “north, south, east, west” points?
Hello Marilyn, I have found that using the“north, south, east, west” method causes the metal to become "waffley or ruffley" and less uniform in appearance. When I start at one point and work back to it the metal is work hardened in one direction as a posed to four different starting points. The “north, south, east, west” is usually used to make sure the stone doesn't bounce out during the setting process. If you run into this issue try using a small amount of bees wax to hold it in place. I put the wax on the top of the stone overlapping onto the top of the bezel. and start setting from the other end.
I would say try both method, each has its place depending on the project.
Thanks for you comment and I hope this helps you out. :)
Thank you for your response. I love learning new techniques!