I spent an hour on one window - divided panes - replacing the glazing. I kept thinking there had to be a better way of applying the glazing as it kept sticking to my fingers and the tool I was using, which lifted it. So I came in and watched this video. Glad I did. Going back to get glazing compound for a caulking gun.
There is also glazing that comes in tubes and has a tip that is more rectangular on the sides and is at a 45 degree angle. I have glazed many windows this way and it seems to be the fastest, most consistent way, without a lot of excess like the putty has.
Oh thank you. I found this just in time. I was having trouble getting the glaze to stick. Thanks to you I applied the primer and it stuck! LOL. I have been known to crack some glass too, but only when trying to remove CAULK!! Thanks again. My window looks GREAT.
I was excited to finally see someone use a primer before glazing(everyone else skipped this important step), but the fellow here used Waterbased primer! Boo! Need to use oil based primer. But what’s even easier is to use linseed oil and let it sit for an hr before glazing. And then after a couple weeks after glazing you need to use an oil primer on it before painting.
I used some "Glazo" mistakenly to fill some knot holes thinking it would get hard . How can I remove it so I can finish my project,I was making a bed out of pine 2 x 4's?THANKS!
Thank you very much These tips have helped me a lot, I am going to doing my infinite blessings and thank you very much, your explanations have been very useful.
a guy I apprenticed with in the 90s leo the glassman he bought a lot of glass from columbia leo of the green truck ,( guy had been doing this for 60 years) ,he usually preferred to have the customer remove the whole glass sash,take it to the shop,using a semi dull cold chisel,and a torch,soften the old putty bead,carefully lift out the old points,( complete job meant laying the glass asides and working on both one at a time),use a scrap of 2 x i/2 affixed to sandpaper, scraping the rabbet,and both inner & outer edge till they were smooth and a bit rounded,this made final tamp down of the putty bead smoooooth and perfectly edged. after sanding the sash rabbet,and both sides that fit into the frame sides,( smooth operation in going up & down). coat the rabbet with boiled linseed oil. use fine sandpaper to smooth the glass edges,,,this way the finished product,whether single or double strength,, would take a lot of kidslams without breaking, Use the glass cutter to take a bit of chip off the glass corners,another measure to keep it from breaking post reinstallation. use pumice to clean the glass,wet with hot water,cooled just a bit wipe on with clean cotton rags,rub till the glass squeaks ( it will smell clean too). wipe off one more light dusting with a pumice sprinkle. set clean glass aside. make a bead along the entire glass track,just enough to make a sixteenth inch bed against the inside wood seam, and along the rabbet,nu putty ( now out of business,the product above will work real well), bed the sheet of glass in,checking for the same one sixteenth inch all along the glass perimeter so the glass floats on the thin putty bed. next use the cold chisel to tap in the triangle points ( wood sashes only) neighborhood hardware stores may have a guy who 'does windows',,they never round the corners,use find grit sandpaper to take off sharp glass edges,the device they use is a metal T cutting bench,the guy bends over thus making usually an inaccurate cut,.. all this takes time,but if the technique is followed,the end result will make the house noticeably quieter,warmer in winter less draft,and last 40 years. And save you 3 hundred bucks,or a second mortage for rewindowing the whole joint with double hung quadruple gas insulated aluminum and vinyl one or 2 of which will break the gas seal goop at the edges & go foggy at the start of a winter 2 years after the maker goes outa business. optimum tools are the bent one,or 2 in. putty knife,do not use it to scrape just for puttying,pumice to clean the glass,linseed oil or paint to prime the rabbet, a separate cold chisel to scrape wood & old dry putty.and one to tap in points for the bedded w putty glass pane, let the reglazed window go till fall before you paint over the putty & window sash exterior, It will have formed a bit of skin,but will remain soft & an effective sealer for 40 years. leo;s work might still be seen at pulaski & irving,the corner picture windows a couple floors up,that work he did maybe in the 60s.
Never use caulk! You can use in it lieu of glazing compound for back bedding, before you set the new pane in, bit it's best to use glazing putty. O.K. use it for small repairs, but the next pro who fixes your window will curse you for using caulk. Pain in the butt to remove, and the paint does not adhere as well as it does to window putty.
Amen on that shit. I have broke many Paynes because of caulk. Just finished such a job. The guy couldn't understand why I averaged between 6 to 8 hours per window to revive these old windows. He is a guy who thinks caulk and sheetrock screws can fix anything.
Bottom run - hah! Sure, that's easy. Try getting a good glaze along the top while the sash is installed - then I'll be impressed. I will always remove the sash if I can. Prepare the wood with a dressing of linseed oil and put in a bed of glaze before installing the pane. Then the points and only after those steps, the final glazing.
Good video.... what is the product to use to glaze windows in winter??, ie cold outside tight now and need to fix a broken glass... putty or caulk. Putty seems easier and less messy ie wet to work with.
nu putty was the best material,if kept semiwarm like in the garage,the amt required has the be kneaded in the palm of your hand to bring out an oil glisten visible,no matter the cold outside after the rabbet was sanded ( a torch held far enough to avoid the 100 degree heat from cracking the glass,just warm enough to bring up the temperature of the wood rabbet,
I looks like the glazing is too high and will be seen from the inside. It should stay 1/6th below the window so you can paint the glass & seal the glazing and still not be seen. The glazing point is not pushed in completely. also these points tend to stick up to high and "catch" the knife when applying. you can clip or grind these short so they won't interfere. When you paint or prime you always paint INTO the paint, not away for a better application.
I was simply sharing from my own experiences and what I have read on the web. It's not like I down voted this video like 126 other people have. Take it or leave it.
Thanks for the demonstration. Why is it when Im spreading my glaze, to remove and edge it,( the final step)... half way across the swipe of the window,...its starts to smear all "grainy" looking and the last part of the glaze starts peeling off in chunks and I have to start all over again? Why does glaze hate me so much?
Glazing needs to be warm, and use new stuff that isn't dried out. I also polish up the putty knife real good to make sure it glides across without dragging anything with it. I'm sure you've figured this out by now but maybe someone else will have the same question :)
I'll throw in some $$$ to show you how much you can save by DIY. A quote from home depot for replacing two 20x62 inch window was $1480. Getting window made for two was quoted at $690. Essentially your paying double for someone else to have it installed. I decided to just replace the cracked window pane by removing the old glaze and have a glass company cut the glass which was about 6x10 inch at $40 plus glaze $7.
Sorry but the primer has to be oil base. Glazing is oil base. I am tired of these uneducated wanna be guys screwing homeowners then I have to go fix the stuff. Also, never use caulk on wood clad windows. Find so ething else to do cause you are no good at this.
Hey, this helped me LOADS. Glad to see he has NO FAKE NEWS or dumb shortcuts in doing the job. Long live the real deal, Dave Mars.
Good video for a beginner like me who needs to rehab some windows quickly on a minimal budget.
Glad to watch such a descriptive video of glazing process.Going to follow all the tips.
I spent an hour on one window - divided panes - replacing the glazing. I kept thinking there had to be a better way of applying the glazing as it kept sticking to my fingers and the tool I was using, which lifted it. So I came in and watched this video. Glad I did. Going back to get glazing compound for a caulking gun.
Roll it out like a worm in your hands, moisten glazing knife with WD40.
There is also glazing that comes in tubes and has a tip that is more rectangular on the sides and is at a 45 degree angle. I have glazed many windows this way and it seems to be the fastest, most consistent way, without a lot of excess like the putty has.
Oh thank you. I found this just in time. I was having trouble getting the glaze to stick. Thanks to you I applied the primer and it stuck! LOL. I have been known to crack some glass too, but only when trying to remove CAULK!! Thanks again. My window looks GREAT.
I sure appreciate you working on the window in place. Most videos show the window in a shop - nice if you can do it but I can’t!
I was excited to finally see someone use a primer before glazing(everyone else skipped this important step), but the fellow here used Waterbased primer! Boo! Need to use oil based primer. But what’s even easier is to use linseed oil and let it sit for an hr before glazing. And then after a couple weeks after glazing you need to use an oil primer on it before painting.
I used some "Glazo" mistakenly to fill some knot holes thinking it would get hard . How can I remove it so I can finish my project,I was making a bed out of pine 2 x 4's?THANKS!
"boiled" linseed oil?
Thoracius Appotite yes, boiled linseed oil.
Patricia Hamilton Kephart Only thing you could do it remove it. And use proper wood filler.
good, solid old-timer. I dig it!
Very thorough! A little generous with the glazing aka "puddy" lol!
Refreshing Crouse, thank you!
Thank you very much These tips have helped me a lot, I am going to doing
my infinite blessings and thank you very much, your explanations have been very useful.
a guy I apprenticed with in the 90s leo the glassman he bought a lot of glass from columbia leo of the green truck ,( guy had been doing this for 60 years)
,he usually preferred to have the customer remove the whole glass sash,take it to the shop,using a semi dull cold chisel,and a torch,soften the old putty bead,carefully lift out the old points,( complete job meant laying the glass asides and working on both one at a time),use a scrap of 2 x i/2 affixed to sandpaper, scraping the rabbet,and both inner & outer edge till they were smooth and a bit rounded,this made final tamp down of the putty bead smoooooth and perfectly edged. after sanding the sash rabbet,and both sides that fit into the frame sides,( smooth operation in going up & down). coat the rabbet with boiled linseed oil. use fine sandpaper to smooth the glass edges,,,this way the finished product,whether single or double strength,, would take a lot of kidslams without breaking,
Use the glass cutter to take a bit of chip off the glass corners,another measure to keep it from breaking post reinstallation. use pumice to clean the glass,wet with hot water,cooled just a bit wipe on with clean cotton rags,rub till the glass squeaks ( it will smell clean too).
wipe off one more light dusting with a pumice sprinkle. set clean glass aside. make a bead along the entire glass track,just enough to make a sixteenth inch bed against the inside wood seam, and along the rabbet,nu putty ( now out of business,the product above will work real well), bed the sheet of glass in,checking for the same one sixteenth inch all along the glass perimeter so the glass floats on the thin putty bed. next use the cold chisel to tap in the triangle points ( wood sashes only) neighborhood hardware stores may have a guy who 'does windows',,they never round the corners,use find grit sandpaper to take off sharp glass edges,the device they use is a metal T cutting bench,the guy bends over thus making usually an inaccurate cut,.. all this takes time,but if the technique is followed,the end result will make the house noticeably quieter,warmer in winter less draft,and last 40 years. And save you 3 hundred bucks,or a second mortage for rewindowing the whole joint with double hung quadruple gas insulated aluminum and vinyl one or 2 of which will break the gas seal goop at the edges & go foggy at the start of a winter 2 years after the maker goes outa business. optimum tools are the bent one,or 2 in. putty knife,do not use it to scrape just for puttying,pumice to clean the glass,linseed oil or paint to prime the rabbet, a separate cold chisel to scrape wood & old dry putty.and one to tap in points for the bedded w putty glass pane, let the reglazed window go till fall before you paint over the putty & window sash exterior, It will have formed a bit of skin,but will remain soft & an effective sealer for 40 years. leo;s work might still be seen at pulaski & irving,the corner picture windows a couple floors up,that work he did maybe in the 60s.
The funniest intro I’ve ever seen! 😂😂😂😂
great idea!
Never use caulk! You can use in it lieu of glazing compound for back bedding, before you set the new pane in, bit it's best to use glazing putty.
O.K. use it for small repairs, but the next pro who fixes your window will curse you for using caulk. Pain in the butt to remove, and the paint does not adhere as well as it does to window putty.
Amen on that shit. I have broke many Paynes because of caulk. Just finished such a job. The guy couldn't understand why I averaged between 6 to 8 hours per window to revive these old windows. He is a guy who thinks caulk and sheetrock screws can fix anything.
lol I would have forgotten to prime the wood first. thanks! (also echoing what others have said, to use glazing compound instead.)
Bottom run - hah! Sure, that's easy. Try getting a good glaze along the top while the sash is installed - then I'll be impressed. I will always remove the sash if I can. Prepare the wood with a dressing of linseed oil and put in a bed of glaze before installing the pane. Then the points and only after those steps, the final glazing.
Good video.... what is the product to use to glaze windows in winter??, ie cold outside tight now and need to fix a broken glass... putty or caulk. Putty seems easier and less messy ie wet to work with.
nu putty was the best material,if kept semiwarm like in the garage,the amt required has the be kneaded in the palm of your hand to bring out an oil glisten visible,no matter the cold outside after the rabbet was sanded ( a torch held far enough to avoid the 100 degree heat from cracking the glass,just warm enough to bring up the temperature of the wood rabbet,
I used the glazing tube
I'm doing this project now . The damn putty takes forever to dry. I'm doing both putty and silicone caulk.
@Willowsnap...did u not read the comment that u can buy a glazing tube...for your caulk gun, 2. If u have temp. issues go buy the glazing tube.
I looks like the glazing is too high and will be seen from the inside. It should stay 1/6th below the window so you can paint the glass & seal the glazing and still not be seen.
The glazing point is not pushed in completely. also these points tend to stick up to high and "catch" the knife when applying. you can clip or grind these short so they won't interfere.
When you paint or prime you always paint INTO the paint, not away for a better application.
And you are the technical support for evaluating Dave's video? Just askin'?
I was simply sharing from my own experiences and what I have read on the web. It's not like I down voted this video like 126 other people have. Take it or leave it.
Says on my DAP to use oil based primer..for the DAP in the tube use waterbased
Thanks for the demonstration. Why is it when Im spreading my glaze, to remove and edge it,( the final step)... half way across the swipe of the window,...its starts to smear all "grainy" looking and the last part of the glaze starts peeling off in chunks and I have to start all over again? Why does glaze hate me so much?
Glazing needs to be warm, and use new stuff that isn't dried out. I also polish up the putty knife real good to make sure it glides across without dragging anything with it. I'm sure you've figured this out by now but maybe someone else will have the same question :)
I'll throw in some $$$ to show you how much you can save by DIY. A quote from home depot for replacing two 20x62 inch window was $1480. Getting window made for two was quoted at $690. Essentially your paying double for someone else to have it installed. I decided to just replace the cracked window pane by removing the old glaze and have a glass company cut the glass which was about 6x10 inch at $40 plus glaze $7.
ممكن نتعرف على مكونات العجينه
I guess Noel is a glazer by trade and fears loosing valid customers :P
Rip
Cut the first 30 seconds!
Cut the entire first minute, without any loss :(
You two are out of your minds that dance was solid gold.
DON'T use caulk...use glazing and do the job right...Caulk will look like shit
Learn how to actually work on windows at www.SaveAmericasWindows.com
100% SILICONE !!! OH HELL NO !!!
Try to improve camera angles so those watching can see the interesting (and tricky) stuff!
You couldn’t glaze a compound if you were a “quad glazer” weak?
I agree with Noel. Use a professional Glazier, not a handy man.
Don’t listen to this guy. Nice voice, but poor advice. Watch a few other vids on RUclips
Sorry but the primer has to be oil base. Glazing is oil base. I am tired of these uneducated wanna be guys screwing homeowners then I have to go fix the stuff. Also, never use caulk on wood clad windows. Find so ething else to do cause you are no good at this.
Job security dumbass whiner know it all
@@davidmartin6947 i rest my case
Too bad, cheap job.