Just a heads up, this works really well on some material as I've found out doing this to many other guitars. But as much as I've tried, some pick guards are so soft or hard and can be deeply scratched that it still shows in the end. Just a heads up so you don't think it's you
I turned a chalky Matt finish on a Ibanez into a finish you could shave with, but used turtle WAx cutting compound, then polish, and finished it with some Gibson pump polish by hand and with different grit's of microfiber and Terry cloth and I kid you not it was literally a mirror.. I had a 150 into the guitar and resold it for 350.00
What a fantastic result. Absolutely beautiful ! I know you can get the materials necessary to do this from multiple sources but dont you just love Harbor Freight ?
@@johnjohn-p5t just a cheap set from harbor freight. Comes with the wheel and two types of compound blocks. I used the white compound because it cut better as the red version is better for soft metals like gold.
It's not entirely clear what order you're doing each compound. I understand the red first and then white... But where does the other scratch remover come in? And do you use it on the cloth pad? Or just on a polishing cloth? Thanks.
I actually only really used the white compound on one wheel from the harbor freight kit and scratch doctor at the end. I'll update the links in the description and put the stuff I use there for you if that helps. Let me know if you need anything else
@@theittyreport Many thanks! I used the white compound yesterday and it already looks a zillion times better. I'll go get the Scratch Doctor next. Thanks again!
Hi Chris, don't know if you're still answering questions on this, I'm in the UK, but have assembled the same kit eg, new drill (wired, not battery), white compound, polishing cream etc to polish up my strat copy black pick-guard. Tried so many times but I cannot get the white compound to melt/stick to my stitched cotton mop even with the drill at full speed and the compound stick pressed hard against the mop. When the compound stick is pressed hard against the mop, It will only very lightly cover the very ends of the rotating fabric, the very outer surface of the mop, but doesn't sink in to the mop at all . Does your white compound feel soft and waxy or fairly hard ? - mines is hard. I'm thinking that the wax may be the problem... Any help greatly appreciated.
You may be pressing way too hard. The compound is very hard but friction will cause it to melt and bond to the wheel. Also, let the wheel do the work, if you press the compound into the wheel too much it will dig in and cause deep scratches and will make the process worse. You also need two wheels for compound and scratch remover. But if the pick guard is really bad you need to wet sad from 400 to 1200 until the whole thing is milky white. Don't dry sand, I did it by mistake and some of the grains got under the sandpaper and caused deep scratches. Use lots of water and soak the paper for at least an hour before using. Hope this helps and please post a video and a link to the results! Love to see it
@@TheJessejudd funny you should ask, I'm having to replace some frets on a strat soon and I just need a couple more tools such as files to get it done. However, I'm not the best person to show you how to replace frets. I'd go to stewmac channel and watch there videos, they are great and that's what they do all day for 50 years.
@chromaticmusic I've just bought a new pickguard for my cheap experiment bass (everyone needs one). It fits amazingly snug wverywhere but....there's a gap near the output jack and one of the bottom screw points misses the wood so effectively need to add wood to slightly fill the routed/cavity area in order to fit the new pickguard. Scanned RUclips for tips but found nothing. I'm going to cut and trim some wood up and glue it in so it's more or less flush to the body surface, paint it and use superglue as a lacquer finish (If any of that makes sense) So.. Any thoughts or tips?
@halo20763 there's a really easy way to fix it. One method would simply use wooden tooth picks as a filler. Next is put cotton in the hole and then saturate it with super glue. Both work very well. Look up how to fill small holes with cotton and super glue, it will show you a ton of cool hacks
@chromaticmusic ah no, it's not a hole as in a screw whole, the oickguard is to small and leaves a gap between itself and the body itself. Like an 8mm x 13mm gap, and the bottom screw hole on the pickguard hovers above the cavity.
I've been scratching my head trying to figure out how to restore my mint green pickguard. This is awesome!
Just a heads up, this works really well on some material as I've found out doing this to many other guitars. But as much as I've tried, some pick guards are so soft or hard and can be deeply scratched that it still shows in the end. Just a heads up so you don't think it's you
You can also set your drill counterclockwise, or whatever spins in the DIRECTION of the points, and then no worries about the drill grabbing it.
Good advise
Nice Work, and very helpful!
Big difference, very nice!
I turned a chalky Matt finish on a Ibanez into a finish you could shave with, but used turtle WAx cutting compound, then polish, and finished it with some Gibson pump polish by hand and with different grit's of microfiber and Terry cloth and I kid you not it was literally a mirror.. I had a 150 into the guitar and resold it for 350.00
Excellent man, nice work
@@theittyreport thank you 👍
Wow you did a great job on that!
Nice.. was looking for a solution, have all the stuff, time to get it done 👍👍
You deserve a sub for this one. Thanks!
Thanks for the shout out!
What a fantastic result. Absolutely beautiful !
I know you can get the materials necessary to do this from multiple sources but dont you just love Harbor Freight ?
if the best results come from hard work and cheap tools, that's pretty cool we live in a time that makes that easy
Hi Chris. I would like to ask what kind of wheel are you using?
@@johnjohn-p5t just a cheap set from harbor freight. Comes with the wheel and two types of compound blocks. I used the white compound because it cut better as the red version is better for soft metals like gold.
Is this what you did and used on the Steinberger?
yes
It's not entirely clear what order you're doing each compound. I understand the red first and then white... But where does the other scratch remover come in? And do you use it on the cloth pad? Or just on a polishing cloth? Thanks.
I actually only really used the white compound on one wheel from the harbor freight kit and scratch doctor at the end. I'll update the links in the description and put the stuff I use there for you if that helps. Let me know if you need anything else
www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-buffing-kit-43657.html
www.walmart.com/ip/Nu-Finish-Scratch-Doctor-Car-Scratch-Remover-6-5-oz-squeeze-bottle/16927988
@@theittyreport Many thanks! I used the white compound yesterday and it already looks a zillion times better. I'll go get the Scratch Doctor next. Thanks again!
@@fishpotpete please share your project, love to see the final results
Hi Chris, don't know if you're still answering questions on this, I'm in the UK, but have assembled the same kit eg, new drill (wired, not battery), white compound, polishing cream etc to polish up my strat copy black pick-guard.
Tried so many times but I cannot get the white compound to melt/stick to my stitched cotton mop even with the drill at full speed and the compound stick pressed hard against the mop.
When the compound stick is pressed hard against the mop, It will only very lightly cover the very ends of the rotating fabric, the very outer surface of the mop, but doesn't sink in to the mop at all .
Does your white compound feel soft and waxy or fairly hard ? - mines is hard. I'm thinking that the wax may be the problem...
Any help greatly appreciated.
You may be pressing way too hard. The compound is very hard but friction will cause it to melt and bond to the wheel. Also, let the wheel do the work, if you press the compound into the wheel too much it will dig in and cause deep scratches and will make the process worse. You also need two wheels for compound and scratch remover. But if the pick guard is really bad you need to wet sad from 400 to 1200 until the whole thing is milky white. Don't dry sand, I did it by mistake and some of the grains got under the sandpaper and caused deep scratches. Use lots of water and soak the paper for at least an hour before using. Hope this helps and please post a video and a link to the results! Love to see it
I usually use a liquid compound, but can you give more info on that compound block, like exact product name and supplier?
It's made by harbor freight but I couldn't find the item on their site. It's easy to find in their store and it's only about $5
Hi Chris, I'm trying to restore a 20 year old squier strat. Do you think this process would work on an old white pickguard?
It's the same plastic as all of the ones I'd imagine. Hit me up if you need anything. And post your results! I'd love to see what you can do
@@theittyreport thanks Chris! What was the white bar you used on the wheel at 1:10 ?
@@adamdoron1978 it's a buffing kit that came with a red (fine) and white (course) bar and two wheels. I think it costs about $6 at harbor freight.
What is the first stage compound exactly?
www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-buffing-kit-43657.html
What do you use to make your frets look so good?
ruclips.net/video/bDuOD0hWXNs/видео.html
@@theittyreport Have you ever replaced frets? If so do you have any video of doing so?
@@TheJessejudd funny you should ask, I'm having to replace some frets on a strat soon and I just need a couple more tools such as files to get it done. However, I'm not the best person to show you how to replace frets. I'd go to stewmac channel and watch there videos, they are great and that's what they do all day for 50 years.
I want to do the opposite, a shiny pick guard looks tacky and cheap.
K
Screw the pickguard down on a waste piece of mdf or similar. Should minimise the risk of flying pickguard and severed limbs 😉
Nice job btw
That's me just being lazing and stupid. Lol, but that's sound advice man, thanks for the tip!
@chromaticmusic I've just bought a new pickguard for my cheap experiment bass (everyone needs one). It fits amazingly snug wverywhere but....there's a gap near the output jack and one of the bottom screw points misses the wood so effectively need to add wood to slightly fill the routed/cavity area in order to fit the new pickguard. Scanned RUclips for tips but found nothing. I'm going to cut and trim some wood up and glue it in so it's more or less flush to the body surface, paint it and use superglue as a lacquer finish (If any of that makes sense) So.. Any thoughts or tips?
@halo20763 there's a really easy way to fix it. One method would simply use wooden tooth picks as a filler. Next is put cotton in the hole and then saturate it with super glue. Both work very well. Look up how to fill small holes with cotton and super glue, it will show you a ton of cool hacks
@chromaticmusic ah no, it's not a hole as in a screw whole, the oickguard is to small and leaves a gap between itself and the body itself. Like an 8mm x 13mm gap, and the bottom screw hole on the pickguard hovers above the cavity.
@halo20763 you could glue a small piece of wood in that area that could at as a piller
What were the polishing compounds used?
Just a cheap harbor freight buffing compound. It's good for soft metal and plastic. I think in the end I used scratch doctor from mother's.
Thanks very much. Merry Christmas.@@theittyreport