@@joshbuck2037 Need the actuator removing or taking out & the pressure rail removed. Can still get signals sent to the ecu and could get small vacuum leak still causing lean running & loss of power
Hi mate, looking at purchasing an E46 330d and wondering in your ownership if there’s any common problems you’ve come across / anything to look out for apart from those in the video of course. Any help would be great, cheers!
Yeah main things to look out for is rust! Chances are the usual swirl flaps have already been done but best to double check that, check if it’s had the vortex filter done and if the thermostats are good they usually the main problems.
I’ve had my 330d since April so 10 months. Sticky callipers are a common problem, I’ve noticed a lot of lagging despite having a stage 1 map. I’m taking the EGR valve off tomorrow after watching a few RUclips videos & giving it a clean I’ve heard they clog up a lot affecting power & throttle. Did you buy one in the end ?
The auto box does not like this 6 cilinder with lots of torque so if you're getting one with an automatic, be sure it's changing gears smoothly, no grumbling noise etc. Especially mapped cars which have more torque will put additional strain on the auto box. Even without a remap, the engine produces more torque than the box is rated for. If it has been maintained well and not driven hard, then it's fine. Change auto box fluid every 75-100.000km despite what BMW says about the lifetime ATF in the box. Check service history! Good luck, these diesels with the auto are very nice cars to drive if they work as intended.
@@A.A1995 Thanks for the replies all, I actually purchased one mid December but was only MOT’d early January as the seller lied and I had to get two new sills welded in haha! Other than that, it only needed a new ABS unit (which I already knew about before buying) and some new tyres. Love the car, it’s the automatic and is super smooth! Previous owner before the guy I bought it off spent a small fortune on all the necessities and extras upon having a look through the history. Despite being on 166k miles it’s still pulls hard, changes gear smooth and rides great (a little hard due to some Bilstein suspension). EGR valve still on and swirl flaps still in but have been cleaned, so yet to have any real trouble (touch wood...). 😊
@@ww3110 Sounds great. These cars can tend to make you have a love hate relationship. Had my 330Cd 1 year now. I’ve had it in the garage 4 times for maintenance all really for piece of mind. Fuel filter, prop centre bearing, stage 1 map, swirls removed, oil change, coolant flush, 75 pt check, just had 4 new Eagle F1 tyres fitted today as I hated the run flat tyres. It’s made the world of difference to the feel of it. I’ve also put some cataclean in the fuel tank today to unclog my DPF & cats cos it seemed it was lagging. It does feel better but if it lags again I’m thinking of getting a sprint booster to bypass the fly by wire & give it immediate throttle response. May I ask why you didn’t remove the swirls instead of cleaning them? They are dreadful for the inlet I’d strongly advise taking them out. Keen to know why you left them. ?
Do you have the bolt torque values for the blank bolts?
Hi, 33mm swirl flaps delete kit?
That swirl flap actuator I need to unplug as it can still cause car to run sluggish by sending wrong code to ECU & pcm. Even with the blanks fitted.
Take the whole actuator off when fit the swirl flaps???
@@joshbuck2037 yes you definetly need to & the rail.
Can still have vacuum leak after swirl removal
Thanks sir
@@joshbuck2037
Need the actuator removing or taking out & the pressure rail removed. Can still get signals sent to the ecu and could get small vacuum leak still causing lean running & loss of power
Hi mate, looking at purchasing an E46 330d and wondering in your ownership if there’s any common problems you’ve come across / anything to look out for apart from those in the video of course. Any help would be great, cheers!
Yeah main things to look out for is rust! Chances are the usual swirl flaps have already been done but best to double check that, check if it’s had the vortex filter done and if the thermostats are good they usually the main problems.
I’ve had my 330d since April so 10 months. Sticky callipers are a common problem, I’ve noticed a lot of lagging despite having a stage 1 map.
I’m taking the EGR valve off tomorrow after watching a few RUclips videos & giving it a clean I’ve heard they clog up a lot affecting power & throttle.
Did you buy one in the end ?
The auto box does not like this 6 cilinder with lots of torque so if you're getting one with an automatic, be sure it's changing gears smoothly, no grumbling noise etc. Especially mapped cars which have more torque will put additional strain on the auto box. Even without a remap, the engine produces more torque than the box is rated for. If it has been maintained well and not driven hard, then it's fine. Change auto box fluid every 75-100.000km despite what BMW says about the lifetime ATF in the box. Check service history! Good luck, these diesels with the auto are very nice cars to drive if they work as intended.
@@A.A1995 Thanks for the replies all, I actually purchased one mid December but was only MOT’d early January as the seller lied and I had to get two new sills welded in haha!
Other than that, it only needed a new ABS unit (which I already knew about before buying) and some new tyres.
Love the car, it’s the automatic and is super smooth! Previous owner before the guy I bought it off spent a small fortune on all the necessities and extras upon having a look through the history. Despite being on 166k miles it’s still pulls hard, changes gear smooth and rides great (a little hard due to some Bilstein suspension). EGR valve still on and swirl flaps still in but have been cleaned, so yet to have any real trouble (touch wood...). 😊
@@ww3110
Sounds great. These cars can tend to make you have a love hate relationship. Had my 330Cd 1 year now. I’ve had it in the garage 4 times for maintenance all really for piece of mind.
Fuel filter, prop centre bearing, stage 1 map, swirls removed, oil change, coolant flush, 75 pt check, just had 4 new Eagle F1 tyres fitted today as I hated the run flat tyres. It’s made the world of difference to the feel of it.
I’ve also put some cataclean in the fuel tank today to unclog my DPF & cats cos it seemed it was lagging. It does feel better but if it lags again I’m thinking of getting a sprint booster to bypass the fly by wire & give it immediate throttle response.
May I ask why you didn’t remove the swirls instead of cleaning them? They are dreadful for the inlet I’d strongly advise taking them out. Keen to know why you left them. ?
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