Onsighting Super-hard Bouldery 9a? | La Musa 9a & Guerriero Del Futuro 9a | Adam Ondra
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2024
- The great thing about partly living in Arco (Italy) this winter was that there are many crags around to go for one-day trips! Covolo is a great crag, an amazing wall with good rock and plenty of routes. I had been there twice already, but Silvio Reffo recently made a new FA of La Musa 9a, and I wanted to check it out and possibly give it a good onsight try. Well, I could not do La Musa, but I ended up climbing a very different route after quite a bit of A FIGHT at the very end of the day!
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS ❗
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
01:20 - Frederique Le Magnifique 8b+ (ONSIGHT for warm up)
01:58 - SUBSCRIBE = SUPPORT
02:20 - Adam Ondra talks about onsighting or flashing La Musa 9a
04:22 - Failed in the first hard move
05:17 - Let's try Guerriero Del Futuro (The Fighter of the Future)
07:13 - First try - Crux
08:10 - No idea what to do!
08:35 - Second try
09:05 - Third attempt - Kneebar
11:12 - Ascent of Guerriero Del Futuro 9a
11:48 - Outro
Climbing shoes I use in this video: La Sportiva Solution:
www.lasportiva.com/alpencore/...
Get yourself amazed by beautiful pictures in my photobook - AO Photo Book:
eshop.adamondra.com/p/ao-phot...
Have you seen this video of mine ?!
• Turning Dark Cave into...
Thumbnail picture by: Petr Chodura
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
Special thanks for the great belay to Federico Rosa!
SONGLIST
Jonathan Boyle - Mean Business
Zane Dickinson - Southerly Change
© ADAM ONDRA 2022
#climbing #onthego #rockclimbing 
Спорт
Warming up on 8b+??? Adam is just on a whole different level.
He really is man there isn’t even a debate on who is the best anymore
Shawn rabbit shoe is definitely rocking the boulder scene but I feel like Adam could put up a v17 boulder if he really tried
@@benharrington1652 yeah of course unfortunately he is moooore focused on the rope
@@benharrington1652 no adam doesnt have the max power for a v17
@@valentinmichler99 ahahah nice joke, he did some 8c+ (i don't care if are in czech they still are 8c+ and no one repeated them), he flashed 8b+ boulder, he win so many boulder world cup and you say he doesn't have the force? Lol 🤣
From now on, I'm not making mistakes, I'm "training".
That's a winner mentality!
Writing this one down in my journal! Love this
oh yes!
It was a pleasure to spend that day with you Adam!
Federico, special thanks for the great belay!
@@AdamOndra thanks also to the crew that did an amazing footage!
@@AdamOndra😊🎉😊🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊😊😊😊🎉🎉🎉🎉😊😊🎉😊🎉🎉😊🎉😊😊🎉🎉😊😊🎉🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊😊🎉🎉🎉😊🎉😊😊😊🎉🎉😊😊🎉🎉😊😊🎉🎉🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊😊🎉😊🎉🎉😊🎉😊😊😊😊🎉😊🎉🎉😊🎉🎉😊😊😊😊🎉
Warming up on 8b+ onsight is insane. 8b+ onsight rarely done even by the most elite climbers but warm up...
yeah... as a warmup that's insane. and his 9a+ flash was nuts
Adam, thank you for sharing your process, narrating what you are thinking, including the details, as you confront a hard climb. This is incredibly valuable for those of us who are earlier in our climbing journeys. People who are experts at anything can make it look easy. But you show us that it is always a struggle - always a challenge - that we each must work through on each climb, no matter our skill level or years of experience. By sharing this, you serve as a mentor for all of us.
You are definitely the most naturally skilled climber I've ever seen amazing stuff.
Is it natural skill or is it decades and decades of hard work and consistent dedication.
I would think it's a combination of naturally good genetics and an unimaginable amount of hard work.
I feel natural skill or naturally talented as a phrase kinda overlooks this aspect of mastery.
@@dannygrout92 Fair enough but without his natural ability he wouldn't be as good as he is. He is built to be an elite climber. It takes years and years of hard work to become that good but its a huge advantage being naturally built for the sport. That being said i also think it's a combination of natural and acquired skill and ability. He wouldn't be where he is today without one or the other.
@@descendingforth yeh I agree it's a combo, but I see a lot of very naturally gifted people, especially kids rise very quickly and easily to the 7-8a range but then get bogged down or lose focus. I believe naturally ability only takes you so far.
It also helps to have two super strong parents and be thrown at rock before you can walk.
But I think the largest aspect is determination and hours of quality focused work invested. And Adam is the man at that.
@@dannygrout92 agreed.👍
Thanks!
Adam warms up on a grade 99% of climbers will never reach. Insane
adam seems like such a sweet and genuine guy who's just trying his best. his "trying his best" just happens to be the best in the world
Seriously! What a great attitude to be like "This was a great training session" after not achieving what you originally wanted to do.
That shot at the end with the 2 man filming crew was amazing. Sucha delight to see.
8:24 "Minkia! Non ho nessuna resistenza, mamma mia!" 😂
For years I just went to a bouldering gym and had no idea about climbing grades. A few months ago I started to climb on real rock. My hardest redpoint send was 7a+ so far. For me, this has put into perspective, how much ahead pro-climbers and especially Adam are of the average two-times-a-week climber. Warming up on 8b+ is insane.
Redpoint in 7A+ is insane too 👏🏻
@@LilianCvl true ^^^ that's pretty sick for a couple months of progress, Jonas!!!
That clip after sticking the deadpoint looked so sketch. That would've been a whipper if he fell during that clip. 9a is a lifetime project for some people so the fact that he has enough strength and intuition to onsight a route that difficult like il domani with no muscle memory or micro beta is crazy. All these videos feel like a documentary and the cinematography is right up there with mellow. Masterpiece!
Adam and the team, thank you for the closing drone footage to show what it takes to record these awesome videos!
Adam Ondra inspires me to learn more about this beautiful sport its simple you are the best in the history of climbing
My brain literally cannot fathom how you can do this. I had absolutely no idea that a human could hold their whole weight up by 3 fingers and tippy toes. Unreal. Inhuman. Beast!!
I just discovered your channel and can't get enough of your videos. Unbelievable what you are doing.
Greetings from Bosnia🇧🇦🇨🇿
It is great to see your evolution over time. Keep enjoying the future!
Lying in bed I get cramps holding up my phone to watch this - but when Adam releases a video, I enjoy!!
I love how you never give up, even tho you are propably a little bit dissapointed from not sending a route. You just keep trying your best and that really inspires me
The videos that adam makes are always a step above everyone elses. Amazing production as always and such a great video!
Yea that's true, but you should have a look to Ghisolfi's video also
Amazing effort, GG Adam. Thanks, helps a lot!
Warming up by on-sighting an 8b+...Jesus F***ing Christ, what an animal. That is absolutely fucking nuts. And I use 'animal' as the biggest compliment, Adam's technique and style of climbing is almost feline-like in its grace and efficiency. Honest to God, discovering Adam was my inspiration to start climbing. I'm still a total amateur, but I love it and I can't see myself stopping any time soon!
Wow!!! I am always stunned watching the climbing 🐐
Adam having struggles makes us feel more normal! Great content per usual Adam! Loving the content so much!
Sweet location, nicely done
Nice one as always!
So amazing 💪🏽 I like so much watching your vids
We're pretty lucky that he's blessing us with this channel
Ótimo guerreiro. ..eu vibro e aprendo com você. ..Brasil.
Really like your honesty!
I onsighted my first 6a xD... You are such a beast
Che bello vedere Adam Ondra scalare vicino casa tua😍
what a great video adam, it never ceases to amaze me what an incredible climber you are, i cant begin to imagine all the work and effort you put into your training, what a fucking will to suffer... just out of this planet
adam you are the best i love watching your channel
Thank you for the subtitling!
So rad! Adam never disappoints! 🤘🤙
Production value and music. Beauty
Wow..! Some crazy climbing,as usual.. You inspired a 40yr old guy to go an try some of the gym walls.. Thanks Adam.!
Adam Ondra is such a talented climber but also so down to earth and respectful of other climbers, he could just ignore a lot of climbers who are not on his level but often takes the time out to help them, even giving them the beta for his routes like Silence etc
The Machine it's coming back!!! Nice!!!!
Cool as always!
inspirational as always
Great video Adam! Nice that you know your limits and that you don’t keep pushing a route with bad holds becuase of your skin! And that you go to a other route and send it🤙 I wish the video quality of the drone shots while you were climbing were a bit better! It’s kinda blurry and hard to see the actual holds in this video… anyone else agree?
2:57 ---> "so far I refused (beta)" ----> ethics and greatness. Chapeau.
Soo good!
Your Italian is improving a lot good job. On the other hand there's nothing we can say when the video starts with a 8b+ as warm up. Alien climber
Adam, I need your knee routine. Your knees look bulletproof!
That is the gnarliest dropknee I have ever seen.
Amazing
Dang awesome way to bounce back
Nice Video. Thx. Greetings from Germany Bielefeld
GOOD JOB BROTHER 💪 💪 💪
Always so Inspiring!! Would be nice to know who belays you each time on these epic adventures, maybe adding the name in the final credits of the video
"mamma mia"
Thank you Adam
Bravoo
Quite a fight
Adam swearing in Italian is even better! :)
I didn't know Adam could speak Italian so good!
the scenery is just outrageous!
I know Adam is not trying to troll everyone by warming up on an 8b+, but also what the hell, lol
Hearing you saying minchia is so beautiful ahahah
Good job Adam nice 8c+ you did
Aliens live already among us. Adam is one of them
Ahah, the swearing in Italian is classic :D
Ehi, Adam usa le stesse parole che uso io quando arrampico!
Another one to add to the sickest tick list in existence... Savage
It's fantastic for me discover right now, that you can speak in italian! (as an italian guy). I've never climbed and i think i will start to do that, grazie a te, Magnus e Honnold 🫶🏼 you guy's are awesome content creators and climbers, support from Italy 🇮🇹 big up for you!
so nice to see that a pro-climbers like notices when we messed up and just grabs the quickdraw instead of whipping badly or throwing out all the energy...
Can you show us the process before you climb one of those routes? Who and how places all this quickdraws already on it? do you use assisted climbing or what is the easiest way? Because I find myself always opening and gearing up the route every time I try something hard.
TOP!
i see Adam then put like 🙂
Lovely that you take this challenges just for fun. Not as serious as the 9a flash you did or other 9b's. Nice Adam
8b+ for warm up is such a flex.🤣
nice warm up 😂
😍😍😍😍
Did I just heared Adam Ondra saying "Minchia"?????😁
No need for subtitles, your English is great! You're pretty good at climbing too I guess haha ;)
but lots of viewers probably can't speak english super well
Hi Adam,
What is next for you in the near future? Are you going to look for more 9Cs?
One question: redpointing a route, after you fall, i've never seen in the footage you going up to the top studying the the second part of the route. Is it on porpoise?
Wow this video was just perfect. It's always good to see how mutch Adam likes climbing. It seams nowdays when he faild his is not as flustrated as he was, and I like it really mutch!
Can someone declar me what counts onsight? On the "warm up" he goes with quickdraws, but on the other two routs the quickdraws was already in the wall. Who, and how puts them there. Is it ok for onsight to go up on a different rout, and at repell put them in, and chack the holds, but not try them?
I believe on harder routes quickdraws stay there. It wouldn't be an onsight attempt if he would rappel down the route. You can check the holds only from the ground for an OS attempt.
Hi, let me answer that. Firstly, onsight is defined as climbing the route on your first without having any extra information. The fact you have the quickdraws hanging there or not does not change the onsight. It is true that onsighting a route while placing the quickdraws is harder, and onsight like this has definitely extra value. In case there are quickdraws in a route that I want to onsight, I just try a route with the quickdraws already hanging. That is very often the case in popular and steep areas that have many routes with fixed quickdraws. If there are no quickdraws hanging, up to 8c, I would usually go and give it an onsight try while placing the quickdraws. If it is something even harder (8c+ or 9a), I would definitely consider asking somebody to place the quickdraws for me. In my whole life, I think that might have happened around 10 times. So it doesn't happen on a regular basis. I have done even 8c+ while clipping all the quickdraws and quite a few 8c. More info in my latest post on Instagram and Facebook. AO
Hi Zdenek and Adam! Thanks for the answers! I was always wondering about how is it possible to onsight someting when the quickdraws are already in the wall, but I never thought about fix quickdraws (unfortunatelly at my climbing level they are really rear).
😍😍😍
Adam channeling his inner italian with a "mamma mia" at 8:31 🤣
It scares me to see you skiping clips to go higher
Great video as usual !
nice
DOBRA PRACA KAMO💪 💪 💪 CZSK SME HRDY💪
Wow
Another amazing video, I was wondering, how do you (and who does it ?) put the quikdraws on the wall before a flash or onsight attempt?
Hi, let me answer that. Firstly, onsight is defined as climbing the route on your first without having any extra information. The fact you have the quickdraws hanging there or not does not change the onsight. It is true that onsighting a route while placing the quickdraws is harder, and onsight like this has definitely extra value. In case there are quickdraws in a route that I want to onsight, I just try a route with the quickdraws already hanging. That is very often the case in popular and steep areas that have many routes with fixed quickdraws. If there are no quickdraws hanging, up to 8c, I would usually go and give it an onsight try while placing the quickdraws. If it is something even harder (8c+ or 9a), I would definitely consider asking somebody to place the quickdraws for me. In my whole life, I think that might have happened around 10 times. So it doesn't happen on a regular basis. I have done even 8c+ while clipping all the quickdraws and quite a few 8c. More info in my latest post on Instagram and Facebook. AO
@@AdamOndra thanks a lot for the answer !!
What happened to Flatanger trying project big with Jakob?
this spot looks a lot like La Ramirole where Sebbouin did DNA ! maybe it's the same rock ?
Do pros ever have concern whipping on project draws? I’m just a casual weekend warrior and I’ve broken one, can’t imagine what having more mileage would do.
💟
With that many callouses, he could become one slap man.
Wow Adam, ormai sei madrelingua italiano!
WAKE UP ADAM ONDRA POSTED A NEW 9A
The music playing over the onsight portion was so loud. I much prefer the rest of the video where you can hear the natural climbing and/or commentary.
When filming with drone, the drone adds noise. That’s why they add in music or post commentary.
How many languages does Adam speak!? He speaks Italian so flawlessly
At least 6
And here I am gassed for getting my first 7a+ 😂
That minchia was amazing
I didn't expect that coming
Probably a dumb question but when you can’t finish a route how to you clean all your gear?
How come you have quick draws if there already on the wall ??
8b+ OS warm up
OK
just better
I never thought I'd hear anyone say "warmup on 8b+"