A big thank you for putting this together. Once I bought some essential tools - 12mm and 14mm ratcheting spinners, and torx sockets - nothing expensive, I walked through your video step by step and changed the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets on our 175K mile 2004 ES330. Enjoyable, overall. Couldn't have done so without your video, Brian.
@@willwalker6896 They are the reason I bought the ratcheting spanners with flexible heads. Facing the engine, the back left bolt was the worst of the two. I got it on and off, multiple times, by coming down from the left of it and getting the ratcheting flexible head over the bolt. Once that was on, it wasn't torqued too tight but required many small one or two click turns as there's no room for larger swings. During the process I took some skin off the back of my left hand as my fingers could get the spanner down the back, working it almost horizontally, but the back of my hand scraped against the firewall seam as I turned it. The right hand bolt was more straightforward, coming in from the right, looking at it from the front of the car. I did try both from underneath the car, but couldn't get to them. Hope that helps.
Wow, this valve cover job is a lot harder than my 05 civic lol.. there are times when I wish that I still had one, jobs like this are one of those times!
I appreciate the time Brian took in making this video. I just wish that he had showed the process, or some tips, on how to remove and reinstall the support brackets . One other thing, Brian mentions most of the nuts and bolts sizes except one : the one holding the bracket to the manifold, which is the harder one to reach, you'll would assume that is a 12mm too... BC he just mentioned that the one holding the throttle is 12mm, but no, this one is 14mm. I'm mentioning this because I had a hard time figuring the size of this nut.
@@willwalker6896 I used s slim wrench (not as thick as regular wrench) and a lot of patience. To put them back I had my son who has slimmer hands start the bolts up for me. Take your time, and you'll figure it out. Sorry I could not give more advice, it was a while ago. But my driveway loves me for it. No more oil leak or burnt oil smell. 300k miles and going strong.
Can you explain how to handle the factory crush washers on the valve covers? Is best to just replace crush washer with two new solid washers? Or to try and obtain those crush washers from dealer and replace (if they are even sold?). Thanks for great video. Clear. Professionally explained. Really nice job.
Excellent job. One way I have found to get good access to the firewall area is to remove the wipers, the wiper motor and the separator plate that houses the wiper motor. Doesn’t take much time and frees up a lot of room. Thanks for the video.
Do yourself a favor folks: clean the throttle body before reattaching. Saves a headache in the long run. Also, replace PCV Valve (only costs $5). It gets all gunked up with carbon and will make the car run like it isn't a Lexus (should be changed about every 30k miles).
The torque on the intake hex bolts is 43 Newton meter or 32 foot pounds. I used what Brian said 43 foot pounds and the center bolt broke. Reference the Lexus service manual.
Same here, I had one break, luckily it was the one on the pass side between the 14 mm nut and the other 8.m hex bolt. I should've read the fucking comments before I started
This video steered me well as I did spark plug replacement on my 2004 ES 330. A big thanks for the clear and straight forward instruction on the video!! But, after 150 miles of driving, the check engine, VSC and Trak Off lights appeared on the dash. Car still runs fine. Code reader said there's a small leak in the evap system. All disconnected hoses are reconnected and clamps are in place. Can't find any leak. Any guess about what is causing the small leak?
Tip: I got my daughter's nail polish and marked all the lines with different colors, so I'd know how to put them back together. (When I did the spark plugs just 6 mos ago, now I have to go back for leaky valve cover).
If you were not replacing the valve cover gaskets and only changing the spark plugs, could this be done by accessing from underneath the car without removing the whole intake manifold?
I am so glad I paid $600 for both gaskets and plugs. This job is not for amateurs plus if you make a mistake you could be penny wise and pound foolish. Thanks for the video
Thank you sir for an excellent video. Very helpful in changing plugs and gaskets on my 2004 ES330 with 160k miles. I had purchased gaskets from Toyota (made in Japan) but they don't fit even though they say it is for a 3MZ-FE engine. Had to get Fel-Pro from Autozone.
Doing the valve springs on the front with the head on the block looks feasible. I was curious if replacing the valve springs on the rear head is reasonable? The head appears to be at an angle and there doesn't appear to be much space if one wanted to replace the valve springs on the head.
A lot of people commented on how much they like your videos. I especially like the guy who said he didn't even own a car but liked watching your vids. too funny.
What did you torque everything at? Valve cover bolts and spark plugs. What gap did you have your spark plugs at. I've got a 3.3L Toyota Highlander. It's the same basic process for this car too, right? I'm hoping the larger SUV makes the valve cover not be such a PIA
BravoTeam127 Think valve cover bolts are 71 inch pounds (not ft lbs) with 2 washers (bc the factory crush washer that is on it is smaller and will now bottom out the bolt if you don't). Spark plugs - just snug & then 1/4 - 1/2 turn more.
The valve cover bolts are DESIGNED to bottom out. And the washers are not really CRUSH washers, new ones are exactly the same, I bought 10 new ones, and are the same thickness as the old ones.
First time i did the rear valve covered gasket I messed up because the cylinder cam trapped the gasket and spilled a lot of oil when I started the vehicle. My mistake was not double checking if the gasket was in place, so I had to redo the rear gasket.. the problem putting the valve cover was the wire and its awkward angle. Once again the gasket kept getting trapped on the cams so what I did was I ended up using some clips to hold the gasket in place and it worked. WARNING: if youre to try that method, make sure the clips dont go inside the cylinder head, cuz that can happen. Its been weeks since I pulled that job and there haant been anymore leaks.
Mechanic was charging me 1300 did it myself then had to go back and remove everything again to chamge the bypass hose that blew the next day thanx to this video I was able to do that myself also .probly would have been charged 1500 becouse they had to remvoe all the same parts again
No only small amount on the corners of the cam lobe. If you look at the old gasket there was no silicone on it. By adding silicone you can actually create leaks.
Hi Brian...I am just about to buy a 2003 ES300 with 120000 miles on it for $6000 - the owner says that the timing belt was replaced @ 90k. Anything else I should look for in this car? Appreciate any feedback...
18:23 You stated you torqued the 8 mm Allen bolts and the nuts down to 43 ft/lb. I am getting ready to do the same job on the same car and the repair manual I downloaded states the torque on those as 21 ft/lb. Can you or anyone else here confirm which is the proper torque on these bolts and nuts?
Goddammit mother f, he did!!! I though he had said Newton meters like someone else commented. Now I have 1 broken fkin bolt because of this God damned fuktrd Uuuggghhhh!!! Fk this guy
Hi guys. I have a 2005 es 330 with 250 000 miles on it and the valve cover gasket is leaking. I've waited until it was time to do the timing belt to take whole thing apart. Would love recommendations on what to change. Right now i m doing: Timing belt /water pump Serpentine belt Spark plugs Valve cover gasket thermostat What else? This car has sentimental value to me (I've recently repainted it and put a lot of money in it). Money for parts isn't an issue since labour costs the most, I just dont want to open it up again for another 100l miles. Thanks in advance
Farid MK I totally get sentimental cars👍. I would add the three ignition coil‘s on the back. It’s quite a bit of labor just to get to those so if you do them now you should be good. And if the front three go out it’s very easy to do.
You don't have to as they didn't in this video, you can see they worked around the top radiator hose. However, I have seen where other people recommend to at least drain out enough so they can remove that top hose and make things a little easier.
3:25 anyone know the torque specs for those studs for the air surge tank? I am assuming the same as the 8mm allen bolts for the air surge tank, 21ft/lb?
Mechanic was charging me 1300 did it myself then had to go back and remove everything again to chamge the bypass hose that blew the next day thanx to this video I was able to do that myself also .probly would have been charged 1500 becouse they had to remvoe all the same parts again
Just noticed that My bolts are Gone the damm mechanic never secured them on my 2002 was 300..I was wondering why I hear a loud rattle when I go from park to about 20mph then it goes away. Wow
John Doll if the car was running before you did the job something is left unplugged. So basically go back over everything make sure it’s plugged in including all vacuum hoses. It’s easy to leave the brake booster vacuum hose off and they will not run without that.
Hello Fernando. I would say yes you can but it will be harder to get the intake off. If you don't have the socket you can put two nuts on the stud and tighten top nut on the bottom nut thin try and loosen the bottom nut with a wrench.
I mean, count the car companies put things in easier to reach spots? The entire car has to be taken apart before you even uncover what needs to be replaced. And also, what is cover?
And you might want to include which direction the spark plug hole gaskets go. tapered side towards the inside of the motor. That will screw a lot of people
Hi, the plastic guide that is mentioned at 9:20 - it also fell apart on me. Does it have to be replaced? If yes, does anyone have a part number or the full name of it and where it could be purchased beside a Lexus dealership?
A big thank you for putting this together. Once I bought some essential tools - 12mm and 14mm ratcheting spinners, and torx sockets - nothing expensive, I walked through your video step by step and changed the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets on our 175K mile 2004 ES330. Enjoyable, overall. Couldn't have done so without your video, Brian.
Hey hey, could you talk a bit about how you got those rear mounting bolts out? Seems really tight back there.
@@willwalker6896 They are the reason I bought the ratcheting spanners with flexible heads. Facing the engine, the back left bolt was the worst of the two. I got it on and off, multiple times, by coming down from the left of it and getting the ratcheting flexible head over the bolt. Once that was on, it wasn't torqued too tight but required many small one or two click turns as there's no room for larger swings. During the process I took some skin off the back of my left hand as my fingers could get the spanner down the back, working it almost horizontally, but the back of my hand scraped against the firewall seam as I turned it.
The right hand bolt was more straightforward, coming in from the right, looking at it from the front of the car. I did try both from underneath the car, but couldn't get to them. Hope that helps.
This video is a MASTERPIECE. You must be a master mechanic. Details in this video gave me the confidence to take on the rear valve cover.
Can you describe how you got those rear mounting bolts out? Really tight back there I'm having a tough time
Wow, this valve cover job is a lot harder than my 05 civic lol.. there are times when I wish that I still had one, jobs like this are one of those times!
Wow, very detailed and this is a very involved process, thanks for the info!
I appreciate the time Brian took in making this video. I just wish that he had showed the process, or some tips, on how to remove and reinstall the support brackets . One other thing, Brian mentions most of the nuts and bolts sizes except one : the one holding the bracket to the manifold, which is the harder one to reach, you'll would assume that is a 12mm too... BC he just mentioned that the one holding the throttle is 12mm, but no, this one is 14mm. I'm mentioning this because I had a hard time figuring the size of this nut.
Same here!
Yeah struggled for about 20 minutes using a 12mm but nope it was 14mm
Excellent,really well thought and clearly explained!
Ralph Madera that you!!
To bad the video was freezing I wasn’t able to take of the 12mm behind the support bracket on the left side.. to tight of a space
@@allen415415 I spent 20 minutes only to figure out the left hand bolt is 14mm. The right side is 12mm as he mentioned.
Thank you! Just completed the job with the assistance of your video.
Hey hey, can you describe how you got those rear mounting bolts out? Seems really tight back there I'm having a hard time with it
@@willwalker6896 I used s slim wrench (not as thick as regular wrench) and a lot of patience. To put them back I had my son who has slimmer hands start the bolts up for me. Take your time, and you'll figure it out. Sorry I could not give more advice, it was a while ago. But my driveway loves me for it. No more oil leak or burnt oil smell. 300k miles and going strong.
Happy to be this video's 1000th Like. Thanks for the video, 7 years later.
Can you explain how to handle the factory crush washers on the valve covers? Is best to just replace crush washer with two new solid washers? Or to try and obtain those crush washers from dealer and replace (if they are even sold?). Thanks for great video. Clear. Professionally explained. Really nice job.
Just reuse the old ones, they aren't really crush washers; I bought some new ones for a 2004 ES330, they were EXACTLY the same as the old ones
Excellent job. One way I have found to get good access to the firewall area is to remove the wipers, the wiper motor and the separator plate that houses the wiper motor. Doesn’t take much time and frees up a lot of room. Thanks for the video.
A 14mm and 12mm ratcheting spanner are all you need to get to the two back bracket bolts by the firewall - the most awkward part of the whole job.
Do yourself a favor folks: clean the throttle body before reattaching. Saves a headache in the long run. Also, replace PCV Valve (only costs $5). It gets all gunked up with carbon and will make the car run like it isn't a Lexus (should be changed about every 30k miles).
And never spray into the Throttle body but saturate a cloth and wipe out. The spray will run along the "axle"and into the electronics
Where did you get the PCV for 5$ ?
Don't get any pcv valve, get the oem toyota one. The original can last 150k easily, no reason to take risk on an aftermarket for $5-$10 difference
The torque on the intake hex bolts is 43 Newton meter or 32 foot pounds. I used what Brian said 43 foot pounds and the center bolt broke. Reference the Lexus service manual.
it should be 21 foot pounds
Same here, I had one break, luckily it was the one on the pass side between the 14 mm nut and the other 8.m hex bolt. I should've read the fucking comments before I started
Thank you for making this procedure clear and helpful
This video steered me well as I did spark plug replacement on my 2004 ES 330. A big thanks for the clear and straight forward instruction on the video!! But, after 150 miles of driving, the check engine, VSC and Trak Off lights appeared on the dash. Car still runs fine. Code reader said there's a small leak in the evap system. All disconnected hoses are reconnected and clamps are in place. Can't find any leak. Any guess about what is causing the small leak?
I found a torn hose on the EGR assembly. Replaced it and the lights are now off.
Outstanding post. I'm DEFINITELY not going to mess with this myself after seeing what a PITA it is.
Glad the video helped you make the right decision. Thank you for watching!
I was thinking the same thing!
By far the best video for this. Thanks.
Tom Smith thank you and thank you for watching!
How to Automotive u should stable and dont shake all time ... thanks
Tip: I got my daughter's nail polish and marked all the lines with different colors, so I'd know how to put them back together. (When I did the spark plugs just 6 mos ago, now I have to go back for leaky valve cover).
If you were not replacing the valve cover gaskets and only changing the spark plugs, could this be done by accessing from underneath the car without removing the whole intake manifold?
Raymond Townsend no you can’t get the coils out with out taking the intake off.
I am so glad I paid $600 for both gaskets and plugs. This job is not for amateurs plus if you make a mistake you could be penny wise and pound foolish. Thanks for the video
Glad the video helped you make the right decision. Thank you for watching!
Thank you sir for an excellent video. Very helpful in changing plugs and gaskets on my 2004 ES330 with 160k miles. I had purchased gaskets from Toyota (made in Japan) but they don't fit even though they say it is for a 3MZ-FE engine. Had to get Fel-Pro from Autozone.
BenzSUV glad the video was helpful. Sucks the first gasket did not fit. Thank you for watching!
You using a torque wrench to tighten everything back down or just snug?
how long would you say this job takes to do and put the car back together? 2 hours? or 4 hours?
Doing the valve springs on the front with the head on the block looks feasible. I was curious if replacing the valve springs on the rear head is reasonable? The head appears to be at an angle and there doesn't appear to be much space if one wanted to replace the valve springs on the head.
That is a lot of work! How much will all this cost to do?
Shop will charge 500$ at least
@@ruiwu3604although this is late my local Lexus dealership quoted me about 1.6k
How do you get to the bracket bolts. Any tips please.
Question. Did you put black silicone on the valve cover gaskets?
No just on the cam lobe’s on the cylinder head
This is not a job for amateurs...Glad I watched your video definitely lets me know that It's worth having an expert change the valve cover. Thank you
jjf609 definitely a lot of work. Thank you for watching the video and writing to me👍🏻
A lot of people commented on how much they like your videos. I especially like the guy who said he didn't even own a car but liked watching your vids. too funny.
jjf609 LOL that is funny.
is there a trick to remove the torx screw if it doesn't budge?
What size inverse torx socket do I need? Do it need to be a deep socket? Thanks!
What did you torque everything at? Valve cover bolts and spark plugs. What gap did you have your spark plugs at.
I've got a 3.3L Toyota Highlander. It's the same basic process for this car too, right? I'm hoping the larger SUV makes the valve cover not be such a PIA
BravoTeam127 Think valve cover bolts are 71 inch pounds (not ft lbs) with 2 washers (bc the factory crush washer that is on it is smaller and will now bottom out the bolt if you don't). Spark plugs - just snug & then 1/4 - 1/2 turn more.
The valve cover bolts are DESIGNED to bottom out. And the washers are not really CRUSH washers, new ones are exactly the same, I bought 10 new ones, and are the same thickness as the old ones.
First time i did the rear valve covered gasket I messed up because the cylinder cam trapped the gasket and spilled a lot of oil when I started the vehicle. My mistake was not double checking if the gasket was in place, so I had to redo the rear gasket.. the problem putting the valve cover was the wire and its awkward angle. Once again the gasket kept getting trapped on the cams so what I did was I ended up using some clips to hold the gasket in place and it worked. WARNING: if youre to try that method, make sure the clips dont go inside the cylinder head, cuz that can happen. Its been weeks since I pulled that job and there haant been anymore leaks.
Good job I was searching to do it myself but damn too much removal for myself. Out of curiosity how much would that job cost ?
About 500 dollars + or - at toyota.
Mechanic was charging me 1300 did it myself then had to go back and remove everything again to chamge the bypass hose that blew the next day thanx to this video I was able to do that myself also .probly would have been charged 1500 becouse they had to remvoe all the same parts again
NICELY DONE 👍👍
is it a good idea to add a thin layer of silicone around the gasket just to be sure that it is secure?
No only small amount on the corners of the cam lobe. If you look at the old gasket there was no silicone on it. By adding silicone you can actually create leaks.
can I use blue thread locker to make sure the screws are in place?
Blue would be ok. Don’t go any stronger than that.
Great job!!!!
Thank you for the nice words!
Hi Brian...I am just about to buy a 2003 ES300 with 120000 miles on it for $6000 - the owner says that the timing belt was replaced @ 90k. Anything else I should look for in this car? Appreciate any feedback...
Thank you 🙏🏽
18:23 You stated you torqued the 8 mm Allen bolts and the nuts down to 43 ft/lb. I am getting ready to do the same job on the same car and the repair manual I downloaded states the torque on those as 21 ft/lb. Can you or anyone else here confirm which is the proper torque on these bolts and nuts?
Another viewer said 21. 43 broke the bolt.
Goddammit mother f, he did!!! I though he had said Newton meters like someone else commented. Now I have 1 broken fkin bolt because of this God damned fuktrd Uuuggghhhh!!! Fk this guy
Hi guys. I have a 2005 es 330 with 250 000 miles on it and the valve cover gasket is leaking. I've waited until it was time to do the timing belt to take whole thing apart. Would love recommendations on what to change. Right now i m doing:
Timing belt /water pump
Serpentine belt
Spark plugs
Valve cover gasket
thermostat
What else?
This car has sentimental value to me (I've recently repainted it and put a lot of money in it). Money for parts isn't an issue since labour costs the most, I just dont want to open it up again for another 100l miles.
Thanks in advance
Farid MK I totally get sentimental cars👍. I would add the three ignition coil‘s on the back. It’s quite a bit of labor just to get to those so if you do them now you should be good. And if the front three go out it’s very easy to do.
Also, Can I do all this without going under the car?
How much is the labor for this job at independent mechanic shop?
Nice work. Nit for the average dude.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Now I see why they want 500 not including parts
Nahh forreal cause I’ve gone several places and that’s what I’ve been told 😑
Wow great clips, I have a question, Do I have to drain engine coolant to replace valve cover gaskets?
You don't have to as they didn't in this video, you can see they worked around the top radiator hose. However, I have seen where other people recommend to at least drain out enough so they can remove that top hose and make things a little easier.
Mind blown
3:25 anyone know the torque specs for those studs for the air surge tank? I am assuming the same as the 8mm allen bolts for the air surge tank, 21ft/lb?
Mechanic was charging me 1300 did it myself then had to go back and remove everything again to chamge the bypass hose that blew the next day thanx to this video I was able to do that myself also .probly would have been charged 1500 becouse they had to remvoe all the same parts again
lorenzomendozamartin sucks that you had to go back in there twice but I’m glad the video helped thank you for watching!
You should give tips on how to get those pain in the ass bracket bolts back on the intake plenum without fighting so much
Just noticed that My bolts are Gone the damm mechanic never secured them on my 2002 was 300..I was wondering why I hear a loud rattle when I go from park to about 20mph then it goes away. Wow
How much hours that Job takes??
Great video!
About how much would this work cost if i go to a shop?
It’s 1200 at Lexus
About 300 US
Definitely paying my mechanic to do this! Lol
Won't be touching this myself!!
Gre Awe this is a tough one to do. Thank you for watching!
Just finished this job but the car won't start. I does crank! Any suggestions?
John Doll if the car was running before you did the job something is left unplugged. So basically go back over everything make sure it’s plugged in including all vacuum hoses. It’s easy to leave the brake booster vacuum hose off and they will not run without that.
@@HowtoAutomotive O.K. Thank you! Which one is the brake booster?
I miss my 78 silverado. Nothing to move out of the way. Just unbolt.
do I have to remove the studs on the manifold.. is mandatory or can I still slide the manifold off with the studs on
Hello Fernando. I would say yes you can but it will be harder to get the intake off. If you don't have the socket you can put two nuts on the stud and tighten top nut on the bottom nut thin try and loosen the bottom nut with a wrench.
+How to Automotive thanks pal appreciate the response
I mean, count the car companies put things in easier to reach spots? The entire car has to be taken apart before you even uncover what needs to be replaced. And also, what is cover?
I need the 14mm bolt. Anyone have that part #?
Yo wya you down to do a maintanencw on my car lmk
Looks like I won't be doing it
I will take it to my mechanic.
Do you know the size bolt for the support bracket on the left (with the ear on it)?
14mm
And you might want to include which direction the spark plug hole gaskets go. tapered side towards the inside of the motor. That will screw a lot of people
Hi, the plastic guide that is mentioned at 9:20 - it also fell apart on me. Does it have to be replaced? If yes, does anyone have a part number or the full name of it and where it could be purchased beside a Lexus dealership?
martinlin68 it's part of the wiring harness. You can tape it or put mastic wire tubing around it.
I hate V6 engines.
I'm staying with 4 cylinders.
Definitely make your life simpler.
Nothing under the hood of my 2 Audi’s was this hard to get to. Transverse engines SUCK to work on!
shwndh they can be tough to work on. Thank you for watching!
F**k you and your 2 gay a** "Audi's"
@@johnnhoj15 lmfao
A few unnecessary steps but good video!!
Now show us how to replace its timing belt.
Goddamn it. What a pain in the ass. Afraid to even think about doing this job on newer engines or god forbid the hybrids.
43ft-lbs on plastic I'm scared to do that
21ft
🥴 I wish I had patience. Instead I pay
Nothing wrong with paying . I pay a plumber to fix my Plumbing issues.
Tuff Ass Job
You forgot to add This video is for advanced Mechanics only cus how tf .
Great video but you moved just a little too fast
Very complicated job
I lost you at the air box removal step.
Fuck that..
I think I'm going to junk my lexus..
Brain surgery have to be less complicated than this bs..
Umm, this isn’t a job for a gay person. Omg, like fixing stuff is hard. Why does the entire car have to be disassembled for this? I can’t be bothered!
Lol. I don’t think sexuality has anything to do with fixing stuff.