Hey! I just found out from one of my awesome viewers that the spacer bushing on the stock motor pops off so you can get these aftermarket props on further allowing the locking nut to get all the way on for a more secure installation! Thanks Guy Fuller!
Thank you 5:58 for this video sir. Just got the 6x3.2 tri blades the other day. Tried them on my aeroscout this morning awesome performance. Motor and battery only slightly warm 10 min flight read 3.80 per cell❤❤❤
I didn't mention it in that video because I later found out but the stock prop has a spacer bushing that can come off to let the aftermarket props go on much further. You can actually use the stock nut with aftermarket props after you remove the spacer. Looks a little odd but it works in a pinch. Look for a later short video on changing aeroscout props if you want to see the details. I briefly mention it in a couple other later videos too. Happy you like the prop! I sure do. I'm not about top speed, I like the improved STOL performance.
I just picked up one of these planes yesterday after doing a bit of research. There is a bushing you can pull off by hand after you remove the OEM prop :D This will give you tons of thread for replacement non-OEM props. Great vid.
Had a prop recommended after this test that should be arriving today! The 6x3.2 in overall thrust or the 6.5x3.5 in efficiency are going to be hard to beat! Watch for the next thrust test episode. Working on a cool flight performance test too using speed, amps, RPM, and altitude telemetry! I'm having fun with this stuff!
Just to share my experience on this much anticipated "easy" upgrade to my Aeroscout performance - Here in NZ (and possibly also AU), trying to track down the 6x 3.2 MAS prop has proved to be impossible - and at a cost of about NZD $15 for the 6x4 MAS prop even that seemed like a poor choice given the same props retail for $3 in the US. Based mainly on costs and access to parts, I opted for a full motor upgrade as I realised the Aeroscout stock 2306 motor with standard 16mm bolt pattern is VERY common in the drone world. Combined with a set of Azure 3 blade propellers (6145) for $3!, and a Tri-motor pacer V2 2306 / 2550kv (total cost NZD $34 shipped from an NZ drone shop) it seemed sensible to spend the extra $18 and do a full upgrade. Downsides of this turbo charge to the stock Aeroscout - I had to learn how to solder new 3mm bullet connectors, and the motor mount itself is a bit tricky to access (use a long hex driver), but I can now say I've got an HUGE jump in thrust performance AND top speed, for just a few $ more. Admittedly I also ended up taking the advice of upgrading the ESC - well worth it to avoid that slow acceleration. You don't realize the stock ESC is holding back the Aeroscout take off / slow flight control performance until you get rid of it!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have done some testing with that 6145 prop and it is definitely high on the list, very near the thrust of the 6x3.2 and just a few more amps. Great choice and glad you had that one available. Which ESC did you go with? I upgraded one of my AeroScout's to the Avian Lite 30A ESC and love it. Love the instant acceleration and added reverse thrust. That old Hobbyzone ESC was terrible. Might have been ok but they locked it down and don't make instructions available. Thanks for your comment and happy flying!
@@shanesdiy I used a ZTW Beatles G2 30amp ESC I had lying around, that ESC upgrade alone was a major improvement. With the Tri-Motor Pacer (2306 - 2550kv) and the 6145 Azure prop it was pulling about 32-33A at full throttle - a bit higher than I was expecting! Thanks for all your clips and analysis! Certainly glad I stumbled across your videos and now how a much more 'fun' Aeroscout to fly.
Why master airscrew when APC props are more efficient and produce more thrust? They may look ugly but they are hands down the best props for performance. They even have an amazing performance chart for every prop. They are also made in the USA. Dont get me wrong i love Master Airscrew for my warbirds and scale planes but for performance nothing beats APC.
Can't find the proper left hand m5 nuts anywhere. Have ordered twice and got the wrong item both times. Please give a suggestion if possible. Great vid and Thanks.
Sorry, looks like my initial link is no longer available. I found this kit just now that has both M5 left (CCW) and right (CW) threaded nuts. FYI, I did do a short video later showing you can just use the stock nut with aftermarket props, just have to remove the plastic spacer ring on the prop shaft. When I did this video I wasn't aware it could be removed. Here's a new link to try for nyloc M5 CCW/CW nuts or just use the stock nut. amzn.to/4cVHmlP
Hi Shane, can you confirm that the correct 6x3.2 3 Blade prop is linked? I noticed that there are 2 different ones of the same dimensions. One is a pusher prop and the other is not. I don’t believe that the pusher prop is linked. I’d like to purchase using your link but want to make sure I’m purchasing the correct one for the Aeroscout. Thanks for testing these props out! 😊
I just double checked, the link is correct. You want the one labeled "3MR Series - 3-Blade 6x3.2 Propeller (CCW) Black". A CCW tractor prop has the same pitch direction as a CW pusher prop.
Yes, it will be interesting to see the difference between static amperage vs amperage at speed. What I'm thinking is once I have narrowed down my top 1-2 props I will do some additional tests compared to the stock prop using my radio telemetry for flight testing. Should be able to watch top speed, motor RPM, voltage, amperage, etc. and log it with my TX16S. I need to get my telemetry dialed in and setup a "performance screen" or two showing the pertinent values and setup a screenshot button and data logging. Should make for some interesting data collection on top of this.
Question…how do you pop off the spacer so I can put on the aftermarket prop and secure it properly? I tried with my hand with no luck. Do you have to pry a bit? Don’t want to break the motor off the foam mounting area.
I was a little timid at first too but it will come off. It is plastic and just needs a little "convincing". I did it with my fingernail but a small flat head screwdriver should pop it off. Best if you can pull on both sides at the same time.
Nothing, it flies great. Just researching to see if there are better options with the stock motor for rate of climb, shorter takeoff distance, top speed, efficiency, etc. Still more testing to go but I've definitely found props that improve the AeroScout with this cheap and simple mod. Mostly it's just fun to experiment!
@@Bcbrad123 I'm still a fan of the 6x3.2 three blade, tons of folks like that one, and I like the 6.5 x 3.5 Scimitar two blade. That might change once I finally do the rest of the flight tests, who knows. I have yet to complete the full flight testing for all of them, due to life complications and lack of motivation, lol, I haven't made time for it. Temperatures here in Phoenix have finally come down and it's flying season. Hope to wrap up all the flight tests for all of the props I have, and there are many, soon. Should be some interesting data collected once we have top speed, rate of climb, and in flight amperage for all of them. Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for the "exciting conclusion"!
1. How does thrust affect the level flight speed of a plane? There is no speed or time component in grams of force. 2. Why didn't you measure the rpm and calculate the pitch speed of each prop? This would tell you about how fast the prop is moving the air through it and give you an idea of how fast the plane will fly in level flight. 3. How accurate is an ammeter at 15% of range (30/200*100=15%) and a scale at 2% of range (800/40000*100=2%)? I'm assuming the scale only has one range. Surely, it only has one sensor.
He makes it pretty clear that it’s a static thrust test, and just using basic instrumentation. Why is it necessary to know RPM’s? Perhaps YOU can invest in the proper instrumentation and run some tests yourself.
@@Mr89Falcon Thrust only gives you an idea of how well it’ll climb. It doesn’t give you any clue of how fast it’ll go. I use watts/lb and pitch speed to determine the level flight speed, and it needs to be 2 to 3 times the stall speed or it won’t be much fun to fly.
Planning a flight test to get some flight data for speed, amps, etc. while in flight. Telemetry should also give me RPM. Not going to go to those lengths for every prop, just the top performer(s) vs the stock prop. Search for "thrust of an F16"(insert name about any plane) and you'll see a pounds of thrust measurement. It is a very common general measurement in aviation that most people can comprehend. Certainly dynamics will change in flight at various speeds, air temperatures, humidity, etc. but this basic static test is a very valid for what we need to know. Amp draw will allow estimates of battery life and efficiency as well as ensure we are not overloading the ESC or motor. The grams of thrust will absolutely effect how quickly you'll get airborne, rate of climb, and top speed.
@@shanesdiyMore thrust will help the plane accelerate initially, but more thrust doesn't guarantee a higher top speed. There's thrust and there's velocity. A larger diameter, lower pitch prop will make more thrust, but it won't push the air as fast. Jets are measured in units of thrust, but propeller aircraft are rated in power loading (lbs/hp) and power-to-weight ratio (watts/lb). Unlike internal combustion engines, electric motors will turn a certain number of rpm per volt (KV). This is due to “Back-EMF”. So, we can calculate the rpm with no load and we also know that electric motors will get too hot if we load them down to less than about 80% of their no-load rpm. This gives us the ability to calculate the pitch speed which will give us a pretty good idea of how fast the plane will fly in level flight. There will be some slippage, but the motor will gain some rpm as the plane accelerates, so the numbers won’t be too far off. The prop needs to push the air that goes through it at least twice as fast as the plane’s stall speed. Otherwise, the plane will stagger through the air and won’t be much fun to fly. Once I know the pitch I need, I pick a diameter that will load the motor to 80% of its no-load rpm. I use watts/lb to determine how well the plane will perform.
@@txkflier Do you seriously think that these propellers will DECREASE level flight performance? An increase in thrust at these low Reynold's numbers will absolutely translate to better climb as well as better level flight speed. Besides, no one flies these airplanes for speed. If one wanted more speed, they can just use a 4s vs 3s battery. Your logic frankly mystifies me.
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Hey! I just found out from one of my awesome viewers that the spacer bushing on the stock motor pops off so you can get these aftermarket props on further allowing the locking nut to get all the way on for a more secure installation! Thanks Guy Fuller!
Thank you 5:58 for this video sir. Just got the 6x3.2 tri blades the other day. Tried them on my aeroscout this morning awesome performance. Motor and battery only slightly warm 10 min flight read 3.80 per cell❤❤❤
I didn't mention it in that video because I later found out but the stock prop has a spacer bushing that can come off to let the aftermarket props go on much further. You can actually use the stock nut with aftermarket props after you remove the spacer. Looks a little odd but it works in a pinch. Look for a later short video on changing aeroscout props if you want to see the details. I briefly mention it in a couple other later videos too.
Happy you like the prop! I sure do. I'm not about top speed, I like the improved STOL performance.
Very pleased to see that all these props are zero grams fat and carbs!
Absolutely fantastic video. Thank you
Great Test. Ordered 6X3.2 from Master Screw 06/25/2024. Can't wait to try it ! ....Thanks
Great video and information. Thanks for doing the research! Im tempted to pickup the scimitar prop that got 800g of thrust.
I like the scimitar, sounded the best in my opinion and performance was in the top of the pack. Check out the part 3 video for the flight testing.
Thanks!
Wow, thank you so much! Certainly helps keep the channel going and making more videos like this!
I just picked up one of these planes yesterday after doing a bit of research. There is a bushing you can pull off by hand after you remove the OEM prop :D This will give you tons of thread for replacement non-OEM props. Great vid.
Found that after this video and discuss it in later videos. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank You for another informative video, ordered a couple props.
Thank you for the informative video. I appreciate your continued efforts in providing valuable content.
Thanks for the video. You just got some MA props sold.
Oh MAN!!!..... This Test was Awesome!!!... as always, Excellent! for sure getting the 6.5 X 3.5 & 5.5 X 4.5.
Had a prop recommended after this test that should be arriving today! The 6x3.2 in overall thrust or the 6.5x3.5 in efficiency are going to be hard to beat! Watch for the next thrust test episode.
Working on a cool flight performance test too using speed, amps, RPM, and altitude telemetry! I'm having fun with this stuff!
Tremendous work Shane. Thank You for sharing.
Just to share my experience on this much anticipated "easy" upgrade to my Aeroscout performance - Here in NZ (and possibly also AU), trying to track down the 6x 3.2 MAS prop has proved to be impossible - and at a cost of about NZD $15 for the 6x4 MAS prop even that seemed like a poor choice given the same props retail for $3 in the US. Based mainly on costs and access to parts, I opted for a full motor upgrade as I realised the Aeroscout stock 2306 motor with standard 16mm bolt pattern is VERY common in the drone world. Combined with a set of Azure 3 blade propellers (6145) for $3!, and a Tri-motor pacer V2 2306 / 2550kv (total cost NZD $34 shipped from an NZ drone shop) it seemed sensible to spend the extra $18 and do a full upgrade. Downsides of this turbo charge to the stock Aeroscout - I had to learn how to solder new 3mm bullet connectors, and the motor mount itself is a bit tricky to access (use a long hex driver), but I can now say I've got an HUGE jump in thrust performance AND top speed, for just a few $ more.
Admittedly I also ended up taking the advice of upgrading the ESC - well worth it to avoid that slow acceleration. You don't realize the stock ESC is holding back the Aeroscout take off / slow flight control performance until you get rid of it!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have done some testing with that 6145 prop and it is definitely high on the list, very near the thrust of the 6x3.2 and just a few more amps. Great choice and glad you had that one available.
Which ESC did you go with? I upgraded one of my AeroScout's to the Avian Lite 30A ESC and love it. Love the instant acceleration and added reverse thrust. That old Hobbyzone ESC was terrible. Might have been ok but they locked it down and don't make instructions available.
Thanks for your comment and happy flying!
@@shanesdiy I used a ZTW Beatles G2 30amp ESC I had lying around, that ESC upgrade alone was a major improvement. With the Tri-Motor Pacer (2306 - 2550kv) and the 6145 Azure prop it was pulling about 32-33A at full throttle - a bit higher than I was expecting! Thanks for all your clips and analysis! Certainly glad I stumbled across your videos and now how a much more 'fun' Aeroscout to fly.
Why master airscrew when APC props are more efficient and produce more thrust? They may look ugly but they are hands down the best props for performance. They even have an amazing performance chart for every prop. They are also made in the USA. Dont get me wrong i love Master Airscrew for my warbirds and scale planes but for performance nothing beats APC.
Great video! Did you have to change the motor rotation on any of these props?
No, all of them match the stock rotation.
Nice, I would take the second from te top, if I had an Aeroscout ;o) Thanks for the review. Cheers an fly safe.
You should get one, awesome Rc plane.
Can't find the proper left hand m5 nuts anywhere. Have ordered twice and got the wrong item both times. Please give a suggestion if possible. Great vid and Thanks.
Sorry, looks like my initial link is no longer available. I found this kit just now that has both M5 left (CCW) and right (CW) threaded nuts. FYI, I did do a short video later showing you can just use the stock nut with aftermarket props, just have to remove the plastic spacer ring on the prop shaft. When I did this video I wasn't aware it could be removed. Here's a new link to try for nyloc M5 CCW/CW nuts or just use the stock nut.
amzn.to/4cVHmlP
This is awesome research
Hi Shane, can you confirm that the correct 6x3.2 3 Blade prop is linked? I noticed that there are 2 different ones of the same dimensions. One is a pusher prop and the other is not. I don’t believe that the pusher prop is linked. I’d like to purchase using your link but want to make sure I’m purchasing the correct one for the Aeroscout. Thanks for testing these props out! 😊
I just double checked, the link is correct. You want the one labeled "3MR Series - 3-Blade 6x3.2 Propeller (CCW) Black". A CCW tractor prop has the same pitch direction as a CW pusher prop.
What’s the size of the left locking nut?
M5
Also when you start flying the amps will go down so that first 3 blade will be great for it
Yes, it will be interesting to see the difference between static amperage vs amperage at speed. What I'm thinking is once I have narrowed down my top 1-2 props I will do some additional tests compared to the stock prop using my radio telemetry for flight testing. Should be able to watch top speed, motor RPM, voltage, amperage, etc. and log it with my TX16S. I need to get my telemetry dialed in and setup a "performance screen" or two showing the pertinent values and setup a screenshot button and data logging. Should make for some interesting data collection on top of this.
Question…how do you pop off the spacer so I can put on the aftermarket prop and secure it properly? I tried with my hand with no luck. Do you have to pry a bit? Don’t want to break the motor off the foam mounting area.
I was a little timid at first too but it will come off. It is plastic and just needs a little "convincing". I did it with my fingernail but a small flat head screwdriver should pop it off. Best if you can pull on both sides at the same time.
What is wrong with the prop that comes with it?
Nothing, it flies great. Just researching to see if there are better options with the stock motor for rate of climb, shorter takeoff distance, top speed, efficiency, etc. Still more testing to go but I've definitely found props that improve the AeroScout with this cheap and simple mod.
Mostly it's just fun to experiment!
@@shanesdiyFavorite props so far? I just ordered the top 5 from the end of the video.
@@Bcbrad123 I'm still a fan of the 6x3.2 three blade, tons of folks like that one, and I like the 6.5 x 3.5 Scimitar two blade. That might change once I finally do the rest of the flight tests, who knows.
I have yet to complete the full flight testing for all of them, due to life complications and lack of motivation, lol, I haven't made time for it. Temperatures here in Phoenix have finally come down and it's flying season. Hope to wrap up all the flight tests for all of the props I have, and there are many, soon. Should be some interesting data collected once we have top speed, rate of climb, and in flight amperage for all of them.
Thanks for watching and keep an eye out for the "exciting conclusion"!
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
1. How does thrust affect the level flight speed of a plane? There is no speed or time component in grams of force.
2. Why didn't you measure the rpm and calculate the pitch speed of each prop? This would tell you about how fast the prop is moving the air through it and give you an idea of how fast the plane will fly in level flight.
3. How accurate is an ammeter at 15% of range (30/200*100=15%) and a scale at 2% of range (800/40000*100=2%)? I'm assuming the scale only has one range. Surely, it only has one sensor.
He makes it pretty clear that it’s a static thrust test, and just using basic instrumentation. Why is it necessary to know RPM’s? Perhaps YOU can invest in the proper instrumentation and run some tests yourself.
@@Mr89Falcon Thrust only gives you an idea of how well it’ll climb. It doesn’t give you any clue of how fast it’ll go. I use watts/lb and pitch speed to determine the level flight speed, and it needs to be 2 to 3 times the stall speed or it won’t be much fun to fly.
Planning a flight test to get some flight data for speed, amps, etc. while in flight. Telemetry should also give me RPM. Not going to go to those lengths for every prop, just the top performer(s) vs the stock prop.
Search for "thrust of an F16"(insert name about any plane) and you'll see a pounds of thrust measurement. It is a very common general measurement in aviation that most people can comprehend. Certainly dynamics will change in flight at various speeds, air temperatures, humidity, etc. but this basic static test is a very valid for what we need to know. Amp draw will allow estimates of battery life and efficiency as well as ensure we are not overloading the ESC or motor. The grams of thrust will absolutely effect how quickly you'll get airborne, rate of climb, and top speed.
@@shanesdiyMore thrust will help the plane accelerate initially, but more thrust doesn't guarantee a higher top speed. There's thrust and there's velocity. A larger diameter, lower pitch prop will make more thrust, but it won't push the air as fast. Jets are measured in units of thrust, but propeller aircraft are rated in power loading (lbs/hp) and power-to-weight ratio (watts/lb). Unlike internal combustion engines, electric motors will turn a certain number of rpm per volt (KV). This is due to “Back-EMF”. So, we can calculate the rpm with no load and we also know that electric motors will get too hot if we load them down to less than about 80% of their no-load rpm. This gives us the ability to calculate the pitch speed which will give us a pretty good idea of how fast the plane will fly in level flight. There will be some slippage, but the motor will gain some rpm as the plane accelerates, so the numbers won’t be too far off. The prop needs to push the air that goes through it at least twice as fast as the plane’s stall speed. Otherwise, the plane will stagger through the air and won’t be much fun to fly. Once I know the pitch I need, I pick a diameter that will load the motor to 80% of its no-load rpm. I use watts/lb to determine how well the plane will perform.
@@txkflier Do you seriously think that these propellers will DECREASE level flight performance? An increase in thrust at these low Reynold's numbers will absolutely translate to better climb as well as better level flight speed. Besides, no one flies these airplanes for speed. If one wanted more speed, they can just use a 4s vs 3s battery. Your logic frankly mystifies me.