A mistake many make is to perform only a vacuum or a pressure test instead of both like you did in this video. Many times a seal will not leak under pressure but will leak under a vacuum or vise versa.... Echo Repair Specialist
Pull off the tank and put a little Dawn dish soap or Vaseline on The Grommet and it will go together so much better but yeah I just found this out myself and have fought with them many times
great vid. BTW..chicanic mentioned you and spoke good of you so i checked you out and subscribed and liked. i watch her vids a lot and am going to watch you too. i am retired and work on lawnmowers and sometimes weed eaters and chain saws for my neighbors and friends. I've got to admit that i don't like any kind of 2 cycle engine. I believe they are a curse of the earth but ALAS!!! there is money in them. i will be watching your vids. There is always room for more learning. Be safe...God Bless..
Cold front hit last night and I set in house all day Maybe tomorrow I will work a little on 2 saws Deer hunters are filling up town and they won’t there saws fixed and had all year to bring it in I’m not in a hurry
you also have to do this test on a hot engine too , as some times seals don't leak when cold , but when warm or hot start to leak , speaking from experience ,
My stihl are still good I just need lock H and L screws so they'll stay in place while I'm using the blower or weed eater I was thinking i might try some pipe thread tape on those screws My stihl blower cost me $50 and the straight shaft weed eater was free i paid $15 for my other stihl weed eater both the stihls i have have replacement carburetors on them they work fine with the replacements except the H an L screws vibrate loose
I guess this was cool if you own a repair shop or you just have a business that relies on a dozen of these things. But for the average income person this is a lot of work for how much money your even saving if you only have 2 gas machines. Everything is made to throw away now and I don't agree with filling landfills. That is just the way walmart and amazon have made our lives. Especially with free and easy returns on everything. Thanks for your time though and helping out people that own repair shops.
several comments (former avionics tech experience): 1. all test gear should be tested for proper function. In this scenario it's very important to test the kohler test. Block off the end of the pressure hose and perform the test. Too often a simple seal or a bad hose or a cross threaded adapter will leak. You will not be aware of a leak down or pressure test is the test motor or the test equipment. So do a test gear verification before using it on the engine. 2. If you are pulling a vacuum and it holds for a period of time, that confirms there are no leaks. If you are applying a pressure and it holds for a period of time, that confirms there are no leaks. It is completely unnecessary to perform a vacuum AND a pressure test. One or the other. The key it to draw or pressure at least 1 atmosphere of pressure. Anything more than this is unnecessary. Less than that however, do not produce the working pressure loads that an engine will experience during operation. It is at those pressure levels that tests like this are reliable. 3. All engine begin to wear down over time. What the acceptable serviceable limits are can be subjective. Not all leaks are awful terminal leaks. Some leakage even at oem manufacturing specs is going to happen. The point is that there is a table of values, a range if you will, where these tests need to be conducted. If the leak falls within an acceptable limit range, there would be limited improvements by swapping a head or changing gaskets. Once those limits are met or exceeded then it becomes necessary. Large leaks that met or exceed range limits are almost always going to be observed as the engine will have power problems... 4. Leak checks at the carburetor once installed can be done with the start fluid test. But with safety caution at all times. while running spray at carb seals and gaskets. making sure to avoid misting the air filter and intake. if the rpm's change, there is probably a air leak at the carb. This happens often with some carb designs that use a thin walled flexible intake plenum or those older heat resistant bakelite type material carb adapters. Those old materials have a tendency to crack if they take a hard hit or from over torquing carb bolts. a safer way is to blow shop air, but again must avoid spraying directly into the air filter and air intake. You want to locate leaks in the carb assembly. 5. Visually inspect for leaks and damage. One of the most difficult to find leaks happens to be one of the most common. Very tiny crack or crease or split or pin hole in the fuel primer bulb. Just a little tiny hole at that bulb will have all kind of trailing effects. So a visual inspection of that and other parts is useful when doing detective work. I like you carb and the exhaust port block. you are aware that you could do the same exact exhaust block using simple sheet material on the carb intake side? that's a lot of fancy blocking gear for what appears to be simple enough by simply passing a sheet material at the intake port and then tightening down the carb...same as with the exhaust side. just a thought.
Thanks for your vids. It would be a cool video if you showed how you made your rubber port blocker (angles, length, etc). I know i could figure out optimal angles through trial and error, but im lazy and stupid. 😂😂
They don't work good when the H and L screw vibrates loose Its that they do work but that's what happens because those screws on the replacement part or after market part are plastic and the original screws are metal on my stihl products I'm gonna look into buying the original stihl replacement part but I'm glad I seen the problem with my stihl weed eater because for awhile I thought something else was wrong with it and its just the h an l coming out of place
Helpful video, are gasket/seal leaks found more on older machines with more hours on them, or can a machine say a couple of years old have the same issue? Got a newer Homelite trimmer that runs when it wants to, have re-built the carb,and tuned it getting it to run (has low and high speed screws) but the next time I use it, I have to fiddle with the screws again,won't hold the "tune"any suggestions?
Hi! Watch your videos all the time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Not long ago you mentioned a supplier you use and I checked it out. Totally awesome but can’t remember the name. Tried checking some of your videos for it but to no avail. Would it be possible to share again ? Thanks.
My cheap stihls wont hold the h and l settings soon as I start it up those settings vibrate out of adjustment I watched it happen on the old fs45 and the old br 420 has the same problem the settings screws vibrate out of adjustment the cheap things still run really good though once I fix the H and L screws from vibrating loose then i can use those cheap things again
Hi I enjoy the info given in your videos. I have a 1998 john deere 6x4 gator. I'm having trouble keeping the idle adjustment on my carburetor properly adjusted. As h kno the idle has to be just so to shift from fwd to Rev without grinding. Do u have any suggestions on this problem
first things first is to do a leak down test on the engine. Once you get those numbers, come back here and post them after the engine has been properly diagnose then I would lean towards maybe a new carburetor.
Great video. Just watched it, even though you made it a year ago. But I noticed your shop interior and see you have a prefab portable building. Do you have a video of the shop. I been thinking about one myself.
Do you have any experience with a Craftsman leaf blower/vacuum/mulcher? I can give you the model number if you do, it's one of those with the 6-7 step starting instructions: pump 3x's, pull it through, set the choke, pump 7x's more, then pull to start, (or some ridiculous thing like that. It is virtually brand new, the purchaser said they used it a half dozen times and it died. I found a bad magneto, replaced it, and got it to start, once, after a heck of a time. I read somewhere they had a problem with the cylinder bolts coming loose. It's sat for a couple of years since I tried tightening the cylinder, (not loose), and now I have it back in Oregon, (it was given to me in NY, and I drove back two summers ago, and brought it back. If you have any past history with these things, perhaps you know their secret(s). I usually don't get stumped, 2 cycle, 4 cycle, V-6's, or V-8's! Been at it for nearly 60 years. GeoD
Questions, and I know you did this video a year ago but, on the 210, and the 225 engines, what is the optimal rpm for idle speed and what is the optimal rpm for wot?
Great video. I am unable however to locate the carb block off plates and the spark plug adapter. Everyone I have checked with in my area say they have never seen any with out the purchase of a large expensive kit. I did a quick ebay search that was of no real help. Any suggestions?
can you draw a pattern for the block off plates? If you do, and reimburse me for the shipping, I'll make the plates for you. Instead of making an air/vacuum part, it would be easier to drill and tap the intake plate for a fitting. Let me know, I'd be happy to knock out a couple of them for you guys. GeoD
@Princeal1 I'm hesitant to put my email in a comment, but there are ways. Did you know Comcast uses .net for their email, instead of the typical .com? I didn't know that until I started using them. If you drop the caps, and put a dot between my YT username, you have the pieces needed for my email addy. (this trick will keep a 'bot from grabbing it.) I'll look for your email. GeoD
Been watching you A bit. I have a 1970sor 80s craftsman weed wacker like 36 cc 2 stroke. You interested in resurrecting it on camera? I hate working on 2 strokes
Ethanol has destroyed so many carburetors I can get pick up 6 or 7 hundred dollar machines for 20 bucks get most running 1st day😂. Chain saw collections are made from this.
So if I'm seeing residue building up on the outside of the crankcase just outside the flywheel side vents, would that point to a flywheel oil seal leak?
I have a serious question, I have been trying to find the answer from multiple people, I have had several Briggs quantum engines come into my shop and a large amount of them all have the same complaint! Mow front yard and move to the back and wait 10 minutes and try to start and will not start! I have found 99% of the time that they are mowing a very small front yard and shut it off and trim the back and go to start and the choke has just closed and you need to open the choke to get it to run! Have tried coil and coil gap, new plug, high altitude jetting 6k ft, carb overhaul, check obvious timing New plug change oil decarbon and nothing helps! I have one right now that won’t restart 1 minute after shut off and pull the rope and it kicks on the first spark but won’t run or kick again! Replaced coil, oh carb and tuned still same? Any ideas? Please
A mistake many make is to perform only a vacuum or a pressure test instead of both like you did in this video. Many times a seal will not leak under pressure but will leak under a vacuum or vise versa.... Echo Repair Specialist
Excellent job, this is where most mechanics missed
Like your videos, not only for intertainment but also gain more knowledge on keeping my own mowers running. Thanks again. Be safe. Peace.🇺🇸
Excellent diagnostic check!!
Great vid
“No bubbles no troubles. “
As always another great video. Another way to perform a leak test is by utilizing a smoke machine
That is the nicest pressure vacuum pump and so easy and convenient to use
@Troy Stanley
Wow, it better make your coffee in the morning for $260.00, and take out the trash, as well!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us! I learned something today!
Thanks for sharing that valuable knowledge , much appreciated .
You actually found the true problem . Good job .
Hmm, I am gonna have to get those tools so I can do some checking on my own stuff. Thanks for sharing.
A volt meter, leak down tester and bore scope is my best tools plus vacuum/psi pump
Just checked out your store. This video is as good as I've seen. When I buy parts and you have them, I'll buy through your store.
What’s the name?
I put a HIPA carb on a trash picked Echo PB 200, a month ago. Runs like a champ, the grommet is a collassal pita!
Pull off the tank and put a little Dawn dish soap or Vaseline on The Grommet and it will go together so much better but yeah I just found this out myself and have fought with them many times
I really appreciate what you are doing for us echo junkies ! This is GOLD !
great vid. BTW..chicanic mentioned you and spoke good of you so i checked you out and subscribed and liked. i watch her vids a lot and am going to watch you too. i am retired and work on lawnmowers and sometimes weed eaters and chain saws for my neighbors and friends. I've got to admit that i don't like any kind of 2 cycle engine. I believe they are a curse of the earth but ALAS!!! there is money in them. i will be watching your vids. There is always room for more learning. Be safe...God Bless..
GENIUS !
This step is easily missed. Good job
Cold front hit last night and I set in house all day
Maybe tomorrow I will work a little on 2 saws
Deer hunters are filling up town and they won’t there saws fixed and had all year to bring it in
I’m not in a hurry
That's a good tip. I've had a few that had rear seals leaking. That tool seems hard to find, I suppose you can fabricate one though.
you also have to do this test on a hot engine too , as some times seals don't leak when cold , but when warm or hot start to leak , speaking from experience ,
My stihl are still good I just need lock H and L screws so they'll stay in place while I'm using the blower or weed eater
I was thinking i might try some pipe thread tape on those screws
My stihl blower cost me $50 and the straight shaft weed eater was free i paid $15 for my other stihl weed eater both the stihls i have have replacement carburetors on them they work fine with the replacements except the H an L screws vibrate loose
I guess this was cool if you own a repair shop or you just have a business that relies on a dozen of these things. But for the average income person this is a lot of work for how much money your even saving if you only have 2 gas machines. Everything is made to throw away now and I don't agree with filling landfills. That is just the way walmart and amazon have made our lives. Especially with free and easy returns on everything. Thanks for your time though and helping out people that own repair shops.
Thanks had been wondering how much to pressurized crankcase to I'd only been going to 3 lb God bless stay safe
Thanks Great video.
Hate those rb carbs but I'm damn good at rebuilding them. Original zamas can be pretty damn expensive. No Chinese knockoffs.
several comments (former avionics tech experience):
1. all test gear should be tested for proper function. In this scenario it's very important to test the kohler test. Block off the end of the pressure hose and perform the test. Too often a simple seal or a bad hose or a cross threaded adapter will leak. You will not be aware of a leak down or pressure test is the test motor or the test equipment. So do a test gear verification before using it on the engine.
2. If you are pulling a vacuum and it holds for a period of time, that confirms there are no leaks. If you are applying a pressure and it holds for a period of time, that confirms there are no leaks. It is completely unnecessary to perform a vacuum AND a pressure test. One or the other. The key it to draw or pressure at least 1 atmosphere of pressure. Anything more than this is unnecessary. Less than that however, do not produce the working pressure loads that an engine will experience during operation. It is at those pressure levels that tests like this are reliable.
3. All engine begin to wear down over time. What the acceptable serviceable limits are can be subjective. Not all leaks are awful terminal leaks. Some leakage even at oem manufacturing specs is going to happen. The point is that there is a table of values, a range if you will, where these tests need to be conducted. If the leak falls within an acceptable limit range, there would be limited improvements by swapping a head or changing gaskets. Once those limits are met or exceeded then it becomes necessary. Large leaks that met or exceed range limits are almost always going to be observed as the engine will have power problems...
4. Leak checks at the carburetor once installed can be done with the start fluid test. But with safety caution at all times. while running spray at carb seals and gaskets. making sure to avoid misting the air filter and intake. if the rpm's change, there is probably a air leak at the carb. This happens often with some carb designs that use a thin walled flexible intake plenum or those older heat resistant bakelite type material carb adapters. Those old materials have a tendency to crack if they take a hard hit or from over torquing carb bolts. a safer way is to blow shop air, but again must avoid spraying directly into the air filter and air intake. You want to locate leaks in the carb assembly.
5. Visually inspect for leaks and damage. One of the most difficult to find leaks happens to be one of the most common. Very tiny crack or crease or split or pin hole in the fuel primer bulb. Just a little tiny hole at that bulb will have all kind of trailing effects. So a visual inspection of that and other parts is useful when doing detective work.
I like you carb and the exhaust port block.
you are aware that you could do the same exact exhaust block using simple sheet material on the carb intake side? that's a lot of fancy blocking gear for what appears to be simple enough by simply passing a sheet material at the intake port and then tightening down the carb...same as with the exhaust side.
just a thought.
😂
Thank you
Thank you for this video
Thanks for your vids. It would be a cool video if you showed how you made your rubber port blocker (angles, length, etc). I know i could figure out optimal angles through trial and error, but im lazy and stupid. 😂😂
Trace around the intake gasket on your piece of rubber and cut it out with a scalpel
Great how to video…👍👍
They don't work good when the H and L screw vibrates loose
Its that they do work but that's what happens because those screws on the replacement part or after market part are plastic and the original screws are metal on my stihl products I'm gonna look into buying the original stihl replacement part but I'm glad I seen the problem with my stihl weed eater because for awhile I thought something else was wrong with it and its just the h an l coming out of place
I have a John Deere 110 with the glass filter, should I install another filter, thank you
What's on my fs45 and br420 are both replacement parts from Amazon on both the h and l go out of adjustment from the vibration
Helpful video, are gasket/seal leaks found more on older machines with more hours on them, or can a machine say a couple of years old have the same issue? Got a newer Homelite trimmer that runs when it wants to, have re-built the carb,and tuned it getting it to run (has low and high speed screws) but the next time I use it, I have to fiddle with the screws again,won't hold the "tune"any suggestions?
Hi! Watch your videos all the time. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Not long ago you mentioned a supplier you use and I checked it out. Totally awesome but can’t remember the name. Tried checking some of your videos for it but to no avail. Would it be possible to share again ? Thanks.
My cheap stihls wont hold the h and l settings soon as I start it up those settings vibrate out of adjustment I watched it happen on the old fs45 and the old br 420 has the same problem the settings screws vibrate out of adjustment the cheap things still run really good though once I fix the H and L screws from vibrating loose then i can use those cheap things again
Hi I enjoy the info given in your videos. I have a 1998 john deere 6x4 gator. I'm having trouble keeping the idle adjustment on my carburetor properly adjusted. As h kno the idle has to be just so to shift from fwd to Rev without grinding. Do u have any suggestions on this problem
first things first is to do a leak down test on the engine. Once you get those numbers, come back here and post them after the engine has been properly diagnose then I would lean towards maybe a new carburetor.
Great video. Just watched it, even though you made it a year ago. But I noticed your shop interior and see you have a prefab portable building. Do you have a video of the shop. I been thinking about one myself.
Great advice fella .
Do you have any experience with a Craftsman leaf blower/vacuum/mulcher? I can give you the model number if you do, it's one of those with the 6-7 step starting instructions: pump 3x's, pull it through, set the choke, pump 7x's more, then pull to start, (or some ridiculous thing like that.
It is virtually brand new, the purchaser said they used it a half dozen times and it died. I found a bad magneto, replaced it, and got it to start, once, after a heck of a time. I read somewhere they had a problem with the cylinder bolts coming loose. It's sat for a couple of years since I tried tightening the cylinder, (not loose), and now I have it back in Oregon, (it was given to me in NY, and I drove back two summers ago, and brought it back.
If you have any past history with these things, perhaps you know their secret(s). I usually don't get stumped, 2 cycle, 4 cycle, V-6's, or V-8's! Been at it for nearly 60 years.
GeoD
Thanks it’s a good video help me a lot.
Cool, found you, liked and subscribed!
How about using a smoke tester to locate a leak?
Questions, and I know you did this video a year ago but, on the 210, and the 225 engines, what is the optimal rpm for idle speed and what is the optimal rpm for wot?
Where can you get the block off kit .
I subscribed ‘cause Chicanic said so!
Where can I get the carburetor block off plate?
Great video. I am unable however to locate the carb block off plates and the spark plug adapter. Everyone I have checked with in my area say they have never seen any with out the purchase of a large expensive kit. I did a quick ebay search that was of no real help. Any suggestions?
I had the same problem!
can you draw a pattern for the block off plates? If you do, and reimburse me for the shipping, I'll make the plates for you.
Instead of making an air/vacuum part, it would be easier to drill and tap the intake plate for a fitting.
Let me know, I'd be happy to knock out a couple of them for you guys.
GeoD
George Dennison Thank you Do you have an email or somewhere to send the drawing
@Princeal1
I'm hesitant to put my email in a comment, but there are ways.
Did you know Comcast uses .net for their email, instead of the typical .com? I didn't know that until I started using them.
If you drop the caps, and put a dot between my YT username, you have the pieces needed for my email addy. (this trick will keep a 'bot from grabbing it.)
I'll look for your email.
GeoD
Will a leak prevent fuel from being pulled into the engine? Put a new carb on my 210 but it won’t pull fuel .
Been watching you A bit. I have a 1970sor 80s craftsman weed wacker like 36 cc 2 stroke. You interested in resurrecting it on camera? I hate working on 2 strokes
Ethanol has destroyed so many carburetors I can get pick up 6 or 7 hundred dollar machines for 20 bucks get most running 1st day😂. Chain saw collections are made from this.
Good video.
Hey partner thinking of buying a top end bad boy 60” ZT
What you think of them
Are parts easy to get
Chickcanic sent me, sub’d
Good video
So if I'm seeing residue building up on the outside of the crankcase just outside the flywheel side vents, would that point to a flywheel oil seal leak?
Test it and see
Check The Screen in The Carb and Be Sure The Muffler Screen Isn’t Plugged 😊
I have a serious question, I have been trying to find the answer from multiple people, I have had several Briggs quantum engines come into my shop and a large amount of them all have the same complaint! Mow front yard and move to the back and wait 10 minutes and try to start and will not start! I have found 99% of the time that they are mowing a very small front yard and shut it off and trim the back and go to start and the choke has just closed and you need to open the choke to get it to run! Have tried coil and coil gap, new plug, high altitude jetting 6k ft, carb overhaul, check obvious timing
New plug change oil decarbon and nothing helps! I have one right now that won’t restart 1 minute after shut off and pull the rope and it kicks on the first spark but won’t run or kick again! Replaced coil, oh carb and tuned still same? Any ideas? Please
Get rid of the auto choke and install a primer style carb. Prob solved
What if the weed trimmer only runs on partial choke?
Then it’s only getting partially the fuel that it needs
I generally take that as a sign that there is an air leak after the carb -- between the carb and the insulator block. Bad gasket, maybe?
You didn’t show us how to repair one.
I have tons of videos on that search carb repair in my videos