Fiberglass Repair: How To Repair and Spray Metal Flake on Boats
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- This video covers the stages of spraying metalflake/polyflake (glitter) on a boat. We cover the mixture, gun tips, spraying tips on how to get the flake to lay flat and using layers of clear gelcote to build up layers to be able to wetsand and polish the areas to achieve a 100% repair.
www.russellmari...
I was looking for a good instructional video to help me with my first metal flake repair job. This video is perfect. Thanks for putting it together.
Very good how-to video. I also repair polyflake for a large bass boat dealer in the northeast. I use the exact same method for application as you do as there is no other way actually. A couple of things you do, I do differently. Instead of styrene for reducing, I use acetone instead. I have never had any issues using acetone so I have stuck to using it. The other is the use of a Preval sprayer. I use either a siphon or gravity gun with medium sized tip. I do use Preval's a lot but only in smaller sized areas. I use PVA with at least 3 sprayed applications letting it dry between each coat. In general, I will block sand off all the peaks in the clear then I apply a second coating of clear then block sand using a shaped Styrofoam long block with 180 grt sanded surface then dry 320-600 machine then blocked 1000 wet and finally 2000 wet hand sand (careful on the edges) then a fine cut compound buff. Doing a 3 color polyflake and clear application is far more labor intensive.
S.Brown, I’m trying to do several, small repairs on my boat. What exactly do I need in order to buy the clearcoat mixture? I’m having an issue finding this out. Any info would be appreciated!
@@evanbowman358 Hi Evan. I get my clear from Ranger or White River Marine. Also sometimes from LBI in Connecticut.
great video and advice i totally agree with the advice and comments on the respirator i can see you are a young guy and when i was your age i thought i was indestructible but trust me we are not around the harsh chemicals in some of those products in my 40s i had 5 or 6 Strokes that left me permanently disabled btw i’m a retired Woodworker who was always around the same chemicals you are using and i firmly believe those chemicals were the culprits from years of exposure i grew up in South Florida and as a teenager began doing fiberglass and gelcoat repairs using those aerosol sprayers like you used trust me you dont want to go through what ive had to do years of physical therapy to learn how to walk, talk, and even think again
If you plan on staying in business very long you better start wearing a respirator EVERY time you crack open a can of resin or additives. Word to the wise brother...take care of your lungs and liver. This stuff is harsh beyond your wildest thoughts. I Know. Trust me.
"AMEN" a good friend of mine hardly ever wore
a respirator and he suddenly died playing ball at
the young age of 50!!!
Keep the videos rolling, never can learn too much!
How long do you wait in between the clear coat layers?
Great videos, and because ur videos are informative with relevant info is why I buy my marine electronics from russel marine
you sound like Owen Wilson, awesome!
Thanks for the video it is very helpful for my bass boat Restoring
One of the most helpful videos I have found! Thanks.
From my 20+ years of bodywork experience you should always use a sanding block and never hold the sandpaper and sand with your bare hands. Otherwise only your knuckles actually touch the sanding paper and sand the surface, so instead of sanding the surface flat you end up sanding finger grooves into your project. I prefer a block and sand at 45 degree angle and then sand back across in 45 degree angle in the other direction. It helps get better feel for the surface and when it is truly flat. Some people might say it won't matter, but the flatter your surface the better shine and mirror reflection you get on your final product. If you ever look into a paint or fiberglass job and the reflection isn't flat like a mirror reflecting all the images and colors surrounding the vehicle, that distortion and waves in the reflection are due to a surface that is not been properly prepped and sanded completely flat. If your going to buy the materials and go thru all the work it is not that much more effort to do it correctly. Also whenever sanding wet sand with emery paper, the water removes the dust so the paper won't clog. It also helps to sand faster and flatter so you get a better overall finish and final product.
Make a video!
Great video, I have an older boat that needs some touch ups like this. I had no idea the flake alone was what determined the color. It has those thin cracks in the gelcoat every older boat has and was wondering if there was a technique to make it look beautiful again? Again, thanks for these videos, they're really helpful.
Were you ever able to finish the project? I’m looking to do the same thing but can’t seem to figure it out completely.
@@evanwilson4204 I used a handheld steamer to remove the older flaking Gelcoat
Did you add the wax additive to the clear you had already in the sprayer or did you mix an entire fresh batch
Would it be important on the hard lines to use fine line tape, as opposed to masking tape? Additionally, to protect your young invincible lungs, I would recommend that you wear a respirator while spraying, and at least a dust nask for your prep work. Old guy here, been painting Marine and automotive for over 50 years, still have my lungs because of heading the same advice I just suggested to you. Thanks for the video! Be safe and well.
Great vid, thank you, just about the respray full deck in flake on a 17ft speed boat
Do you wait for each clear coat to dry before the next or just tack up?
Hi there
Is this the reverse for spraying into a mould - spray clear coat first then a mix of clear coat and flake then clear coat again ?
Cheers
What's the best way to match the color of metal flake?
Can I spray just a clear over a spot where the silver flake is coming through
Good video now do you use clear coat or gel coat to seal the flake you keep saying clear coat and not gel coat I’m confused
Missed these videos
Can you make a more detailed video about mixing the styrene and MKP? Also how to add the wax at the end? I need to fix a little bad spot on the corner of my skeeter but I'm still unsure of the amounts. Plus I am a chemist so I am more used to being very precise with measuring.
What brand of clear gel coat would you recommend and what size tip for the HVLP to spray it?
Russ, where is a good place to get clear gel coat? Who carries it? Having a hard time finding it in my local area.
hi, steve here, do the first two clear spray jobs need to cure completely before the last one with the wax, an can I use patch aid instead of styrene for ether one
hello a friend greeting I work for lund boats and my work is the same as yours. Fix boats with metalflacke finish and it is a stressful job when the flacke turns silver
I'd like to see a video on a complete top cap recoated with clear coat.
what pressure did you use on the gun?
Do you spray a wide or tighter pattern?
If I spray gelco 24 oz how much. Pach aid
What brand products are you using ??
my entire boat top is faded out ive wet sanded alot out of the oxidation layer but its still cracked and looks bad. i want to price spraying new gel coat on the entire top of the boat. bottom is fine i can use for reference.
the one thing i cannot find is
where to buy clear gel coat. how much i need. where to buy flake and how much i need. i know how to paint cars but boats are a different story since now one will go through a proper walkthrough the whole thing
I know this is old, but roughly one quart per 25 square feet is needed. You can buy the clear on ebay or amazon.
If my gel coat is starting to fog and gray can I respray the clear over the top without respraying the flake
yes you can, but you will need to wetsand all the oxidation (fog) out first to make sure you aren't spraying over the oxidation, if you spray directly over the oxidation you will trap it under the new layer or gelcote and you won't be able to remove it.
Thank you very much been looking all over for the answer to this question finally just decided to ask
What gel coat did you use
i tried a preval sprayer 60 ml of gel 6ml styrene 30 drops of hardner it spattered out it looks like shit
What is the Wax Additive product?
Wax additive agent is used in the final layer of gelcoat as a sanding/ curing aid also sometimes referred to as patch aid as well.
its a surfacing agent that you can buy at any fiberglass products website. liquid wax.
Mixing metal flake with clear is not the best way to do it . It makes a mess . They make whats called dry metal flake guns. You spray on clear and then spray the dry metal flake on the clear . what doesn't stick just falls to the plastic you put on the ground you can even collect it and put it back in the gun . The gun just cleans up with air . The best part of the dry spray is you don't have to know anything about metal flaking or mixing the right amount . You can practice a few times on a cardboard box and you are good to go . Watch this video . ruclips.net/video/YmE-kCQLjvM/видео.html
Have you done this with gelcoat? (as opposed to paint)
love your videos.but please wear a mask.you won't regret it.take it from me.
Never get to see finished product.
can you use this process for the whole boat if the entire boat is faded
absolutely you can. If the entire boat is faded I would recommend trying to wetsand and polish first but you can spray just the same and redo an entire boat.
why should you not use acetone to thin the clear?
bent rodguy acetone is what is used to clean spray guns and equipment. Acetone breaks down gelcoat. Using Acetone to thin gelcoat will degrade and eat away the gelcoat.
There are things meant specifically to thin gelcoat. Patch aid or patch reducer. The lighter the color of gelcoat you use the less reducer you should use.
To much reducer in a white gelcoat for example will leave a yellow tinge or discoloration to the gelcoat and will look nasty in a blended area.
Styrene
@@chrislangdell117 styrene breaks it down as well, any solvent reduces chemical signature of paint, or gelcoat for that matter so acetone is fine, i have used it for the lat 35 years i have been doing gelcoat repairs, zero problems, styrene works, denatured alchol, and even laquer thinner, but the best i have found is acetone, very readily available as well
@@stephenvarney9284 Solvent
Acetone is a good solvent for many plastics and some synthetic fibers. It is used for thinning polyester resin, cleaning tools used with it, and dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before they harden. It is used as one of the volatile components of some paints and varnishes. As a heavy-duty degreaser, it is useful in the preparation of metal prior to painting or soldering, and to remove rosin flux after soldering, which helps to prevent the rusty bolt effect. >>google acetone and read the wikipidia definition on it
@@handyallaround5776 do what you want. I went to school for this. Was taught by the head of R&D department of the gelcoat manufacturer that this was the worst thing you could do. He explained the science behind his reasoning but that was 25 years ago. I dont remember much of it. Im glad your methods have worked out for you.
I've been doing cosmetic and structural fiberglass, Gelcoat and all linear urethanes for 12+ years. Metallic anything absolutely has no business being on a boat/yacht. You definitely do not just "eyeball" how much catalyst you add. Poor advise. You could cause someone to suffer from chemical burns or burning down a shop. MEK-P IS nothing to sneeze at.
This is old, but he never advised anyone to do what he is skilled at doing, specifically eyeballing the mix. He stated that viewers wouldn’t like it. I see nothing wrong with others making choices that work for themselves and showing others, it’s not that exact of a science, and to have confidence to DIY. Maybe you should make a safety video to inform the DIYer.
I'm just here for the comments from the PPE Nazi's.