When using a micrometer you should not turn it where you do, you should use the riffled round bit in the end, the threads are very fine so it should only be tightened with a very light and consistent torque.
A case of Ockham’s razor perhaps ? The simplest answer is often the correct one.. but I can easily see why the almost brand new discs would throw you off! In the same sense that when you sometimes receive a faulty new part can completely throw off the diagnosis! Great job taking a step back Seppo!
Great feeling when you find the problem! I had a funny one a few years ago….After covid lockdown I was given a VW Polo, it was great apart from vibration when braking, I checked everything, the discs were flat and everything checked out fine. In desperationI replaced the discs and hey presto it was fixed. It turned out the car had almost no use during lockdown and the pads had rusted onto the discs. The point on the disc where this happened had a different ‘texture’ due to the corrosion damage and this surface finish difference was enough to cause the vibrations!!!
You learn from experience. I was pretty sure that was your problem.I once had an 80s V8 Ford it braked ok seemingly, but needed pads. I fitted them and it instantly became almost undrinkable with almost violent braking shudder. New discs and it was perfect. Normally on light braking I would have expected you'd feel a light pulsing in the pedal and then obviously we could see the hard braking shaking. It would be unusual for suspension components to cause that only when under braking. If they were that bad to do that, I'd be expecting clunks and other noises on corner as well... you live and learn!
Nice work. Honestly I didn’t think it would have been the discs, as they were new. But you correctly had your suspicions from the get go. Interesting scenario. Not sure how a few others in the comments could see this as “obvious”, considering what you had already done. 👍🍻
Volvo 700/900 can have weird brake feel caused by stay arm bushings. And the S60/V70 the same feeding can be caused by shot lower control arm rubber bushings.
@jfv65 Yes...Mine is a 1999 V70 T5..I have replaced the control arms twice in my ten year ownership..I think that these bad bushings can cause the brake disc to warp. I was recently looking for maybe a newer car recently but I can't find anything that can top my old turbo brick..
I guess even the smallest of defects can create big problems, but at least it's sorted, just have the "everything else" to sort out on the car now... :P
My compliments on you vlogs, I watch them with great pleasure. Should you need any parts for the Rover, on a breakers yard nearby my home a nice example was placed. Let me know, I can help you if you need anything!
I haven't sen the earlier videos about the bent hub etc. but I suspect that maybe that corner of the car was driven into a kerb or pothole and the hub was damaged and the wheel also a bit buckled... hence all the weights and slight vibration on that wheel ? Maybe swap that wheel to the back ? Also if you are sponsored by Skil, maybe show more of the impact gun when removing wheels, and not your backside !
I had a motorcycle (front) brake disk with thickness variations of about 0,1mm, and that was very noticeable especially with light to medium braking...
I think the previous owner replaced the disks, and then didn't break them in properly. Maybe a pretty hard breaking for like a traffic light, and then not taking the foot off the break. This causes uneven heat transfer, and is a certain recipe for warped disks (easily done, I've done it myself). Best practice is to always use the handbrake when stationary.
@@kosir1234 Like you say, it doesn't happen, hence it's warped. It needs to go in a lathe for runout measurements to be correct, and the micrometer method doesn't really say anything. it's way to inexact even if done correctly.
Well done on the discs. Maybe the dodgy one can get a skim to get it back to normal. It should still be nowhere near the too thin limit. Do both to match them. Hopefully we will get to see your vintage wheel balancer get another work out. Maybe the tyres will need to be replaced first?
Love your videos, right attitude on the type of older cars that most of us can still afford and work on. Don't want to be pedantic but I will be anyway...... I know English is your 2nd language but I'm sure maths is the same maths in Denmark. Decimals; 20.95 is twenty point nine five not twenty point ninety five. Keep up the good work.
@@SeasideGarage The digits after the decimal aren't actually ninety five; they're nine tenths and five one-hundreths. Ninety five (95.00) is 100 times larger than 0.95 (point nine five). If you say a car part costs ninety five euros you mean 95 not 0.95....
When using a micrometer you should not turn it where you do, you should use the riffled round bit in the end, the threads are very fine so it should only be tightened with a very light and consistent torque.
Its noted! thanks
I'm glad you found the problem. We can all sleep soundly once again! :)
A case of Ockham’s razor perhaps ? The simplest answer is often the correct one.. but I can easily see why the almost brand new discs would throw you off! In the same sense that when you sometimes receive a faulty new part can completely throw off the diagnosis!
Great job taking a step back Seppo!
Glad it’s fixed. I once bought new discs for my Triumph 2000 which were warped…. I wasn’t happy about that!
Great feeling when you find the problem!
I had a funny one a few years ago….After covid lockdown I was given a VW Polo, it was great apart from vibration when braking, I checked everything, the discs were flat and everything checked out fine. In desperationI replaced the discs and hey presto it was fixed. It turned out the car had almost no use during lockdown and the pads had rusted onto the discs. The point on the disc where this happened had a different ‘texture’ due to the corrosion damage and this surface finish difference was enough to cause the vibrations!!!
You learn from experience. I was pretty sure that was your problem.I once had an 80s V8 Ford it braked ok seemingly, but needed pads. I fitted them and it instantly became almost undrinkable with almost violent braking shudder. New discs and it was perfect. Normally on light braking I would have expected you'd feel a light pulsing in the pedal and then obviously we could see the hard braking shaking. It would be unusual for suspension components to cause that only when under braking. If they were that bad to do that, I'd be expecting clunks and other noises on corner as well... you live and learn!
The tolerance for thickness difference is 0.015 mm and for Runout is 0.05 mm on new brake discs.
You think he wrote it down?
Congratulations, you have finally got peace of mind.
Yay 🥳 Seppo no more shaking , been going on so long I never thought I see the day 😂 ITS FIXED 👌🏻
Nice work. Honestly I didn’t think it would have been the discs, as they were new. But you correctly had your suspicions from the get go. Interesting scenario. Not sure how a few others in the comments could see this as “obvious”, considering what you had already done. 👍🍻
Well done on finding the answer. Many of us has chased our tail trying to fault find.
Am always chasing TAIL 😁, hope I never get fed up doing it 😂
I chased this same problem on my Volvo..Was really such a relief when I finally solved it..
Volvo 700/900 can have weird brake feel caused by stay arm bushings.
And the S60/V70 the same feeding can be caused by shot lower control arm rubber bushings.
@jfv65 Yes...Mine is a 1999 V70 T5..I have replaced the control arms twice in my ten year ownership..I think that these bad bushings can cause the brake disc to warp. I was recently looking for maybe a newer car recently but I can't find anything that can top my old turbo brick..
I guess even the smallest of defects can create big problems, but at least it's sorted, just have the "everything else" to sort out on the car now... :P
My compliments on you vlogs, I watch them with great pleasure. Should you need any parts for the Rover, on a breakers yard nearby my home a nice example was placed. Let me know, I can help you if you need anything!
I haven't sen the earlier videos about the bent hub etc. but I suspect that maybe that corner of the car was driven into a kerb or pothole and the hub was damaged and the wheel also a bit buckled... hence all the weights and slight vibration on that wheel ? Maybe swap that wheel to the back ?
Also if you are sponsored by Skil, maybe show more of the impact gun when removing wheels, and not your backside !
I had a motorcycle (front) brake disk with thickness variations of about 0,1mm, and that was very noticeable especially with light to medium braking...
Done this. Now hurry up to balance all four wheels!
Exciting what you are swapping it for! 😃😃😃
Yea !! 😊
I think the previous owner replaced the disks, and then didn't break them in properly. Maybe a pretty hard breaking for like a traffic light, and then not taking the foot off the break. This causes uneven heat transfer, and is a certain recipe for warped disks (easily done, I've done it myself). Best practice is to always use the handbrake when stationary.
it not warped, its unevenly worn which just dont happen in normal world :D
@@kosir1234 Like you say, it doesn't happen, hence it's warped. It needs to go in a lathe for runout measurements to be correct, and the micrometer method doesn't really say anything. it's way to inexact even if done correctly.
Its rare... but this one was not warped...
Good work man 👍
I had the same problem with my car. Although there were only 20.000 km in the discs, that's not a lot. But I changed them, and the problem was solved.
These got less then 1000km is my guess... :)
Well done
Well done on the discs. Maybe the dodgy one can get a skim to get it back to normal. It should still be nowhere near the too thin limit. Do both to match them. Hopefully we will get to see your vintage wheel balancer get another work out. Maybe the tyres will need to be replaced first?
These days it is cheaper to buy a set of new ones... and throw the failed discs to the crap pile...
Its sad. but true... new discs are cheaper the skim.... wish I had the machine myself!
well done
Perhaps the warped discs can be machined ans re-used in future.... ?
He has to bring them to machine shop. That’s more expensive then buying new disks.
Hey, another great video. I was wondering how old that micrometer is and the make. Keep the great videos coming, hi from Australia.
Very old... dont know the make!
I won’t fit cheap discs and pads ,to many come backs with high spots causing shaky brakes , brembo or pagid only now
That's what you call taking it for a shake down...or should that be a no shake down?🤔
90 microns who would have thought now we know
Love your videos, right attitude on the type of older cars that most of us can still afford and work on. Don't want to be pedantic but I will be anyway...... I know English is your 2nd language but I'm sure maths is the same maths in Denmark. Decimals; 20.95 is twenty point nine five not twenty point ninety five. Keep up the good work.
hmm ... why is that? is decimals read out in single numbers? That's new to me.. :)
@@SeasideGarage The digits after the decimal aren't actually ninety five; they're nine tenths and five one-hundreths. Ninety five (95.00) is 100 times larger than 0.95 (point nine five). If you say a car part costs ninety five euros you mean 95 not 0.95....
Du bruger micrometerværktøjet forkert, du skal stramme på skralden i enden, så trykket på skiven bliver detsamme!!!
Det er noteret!
Try not to 'over think' things, obvious is obvious for a reason.
That perfectly encapsulates Occam's razor! Always start with the simplest or most likely explanation..
That's not the way to use a micrometer. But given you used the same wrong method - the readings should be comparable at least!
Learning everyday! But yes... I did tighten it to the same pressure on each spot... of course by feel.... now I know how to do it next time!