Great video and explanation of the job 👍 i just have couple tips.. do not mean it in bad way but just wanted to share some knowledge from the years i spent working on these... - the T40 bolts on the front calipers are not supposed to be removed unless they are replaced with new ones...They are fitted at the factory with high strenght thread locking compound as they are subjected to vibrations and heat cycles to prevent them from loosening.... pads area easily replaced with them in place without any difficulty.... -From factory the front brake rotors are 2-piece design where the hat of the rotor is aluminium and the rotor itself is steel.... that means they are much lighter and also do not transfer heat into the hub flange and wheel bearing.... there is nothing wrong with the all steel ones but i just wanted to mention this as i prefer the factory spec 2-piece because of the weight and heat managment... - on the rear you did one major mistake that pretty much everyone does.... you should never hammer the rotor off... there is absolutely 0 force required to take the rotor off.... correct procedure is to take screw driver and wind down the E-brake adjuster 2 turns through one of the bolt holes..... this will retract the E-brake shoes slightly alowing for the rotor to fall off on its own.... After fitting the new rotors wind the adjuster back or adjust the E-brake completely as its usualy required after replacing the rotors... -greasing the hub surface and wheel seating surface is good thing to do but extremly thin coat should be used thats why copper is not ideal for this.... Graphite grease is the best as its easy to apply in thin coat and the grease itseld will actualy mostly wash off but the graphite stays in place preventing the parts to rust together..... the reason for the coating to be super thin is that the rotor must sit perfectly flat on the hub to prevent any runout issues and such amount of grease will stop it from being perfectly flat...
@@drivewrenchrepeat Keep up the work your videos are greatly detailed and covering the important jobs on the 1er 👍🏼 Earned a new subscriber and i will definetly recommend your guides and videos
I incorrectly narrated that the rear caliper bracket mounting bolts require E16 to remove. The front bolts are E16, but the rear's are a regular 16mm socket. -Daniel
Also I’m trying to find the torque specs because 81 ft•lbs seems to high as on my 335i I know it’s like 48 ft•lbs, and this other website says they should be the same on my dads 135i but I’m just not sure since they’re more heavy duty calipers. Where I saw the specs they said the front was 81 and the rear is 48 I think
As you found, don't loosen the rotor until the caliper is removed. It's much harder to remove a caliper with a moving rotor than a jamming a screwdriver/stopping the rotor to remove the rotor screw. Good job :)
Great video! The best check on a rotor if it looks OK is to check the thickness. It has a minimum thickness. Mine were in pretty good shape visually but when I checked the thickness, it was almost all the way down to the minimum. Good tool list. Certainly people can do it by hand without any kind of battery operated tools if they want to. That would save hundreds in tool costs if you’re on the cheap. Great comparison though.
If you plan on tracking the car, its recommended to upgrade the piston and seals of the front caliper. The material used for the stock seals and pistons are prone to cracking and get jammed when subject to extreme heat. FCP Euro sell the upgrade kit to fix the issue.
Just bought a low miles 135i because of videos like yours, I wish I had seen this earlier! I wouldv'e been even more excited to get mine! Catching up on the whole series now :D
I have a 2008 135i convertible non M car but I do have the brembo calipers at front but normal calipers at the rear so my rn I have an issue can't find the brakes
Great video, thank you. To replace the rotors only I don't need to remove the screws holding the pads correct? All I need to do is to remove the 2 E16mm bolts for the front and 16mm bolts for the back. Old owner replaced pads a few months go but not the rotors. Thank you.
Hey Oscar, to replace the rotors, the calipers need to be removed completely. Otherwise, you won't be able to remove the old and install new rotors even if you're not replacing the brake pads. If you have additional questions around this, feel free to DM us @drive_wrench_repeat on IG.
Than you. I ended up replacing rotors and pads for all 4 sides. Like someone mentioned, you dont have to touch to the torxs screws on the caliper. I only removed both allen screws and removed caliper and pads were able to put back in place with no issues. Keep up the great videos.
The sensors are included in the brake kit and should definitely be replaced when performing this job. I forgot to include that process in the video, so thanks for pointing that out! Anyone viewing this comment can refer to this video for swapping out the sensors: ruclips.net/video/UV-0NseI4C0/видео.html
Great video guys. I replaced mine thanks to this video. a few months ago. Question: Do you have squalling issues? Mine squeal so bad high pitch sound only when hot stop and go condition. Light braking. Planning to replace pads with ceramic ones? Or at least add anti squeal paste?
@drivewrenchrepeat thank you! I'm asking because looks like the owner before me put another calipers from a 2014 x1 s28i and also the discs are from the 2014 x1 s28i idk why he did that
Great video and explanation of the job 👍 i just have couple tips.. do not mean it in bad way but just wanted to share some knowledge from the years i spent working on these...
- the T40 bolts on the front calipers are not supposed to be removed unless they are replaced with new ones...They are fitted at the factory with high strenght thread locking compound as they are subjected to vibrations and heat cycles to prevent them from loosening.... pads area easily replaced with them in place without any difficulty....
-From factory the front brake rotors are 2-piece design where the hat of the rotor is aluminium and the rotor itself is steel.... that means they are much lighter and also do not transfer heat into the hub flange and wheel bearing.... there is nothing wrong with the all steel ones but i just wanted to mention this as i prefer the factory spec 2-piece because of the weight and heat managment...
- on the rear you did one major mistake that pretty much everyone does.... you should never hammer the rotor off... there is absolutely 0 force required to take the rotor off.... correct procedure is to take screw driver and wind down the E-brake adjuster 2 turns through one of the bolt holes..... this will retract the E-brake shoes slightly alowing for the rotor to fall off on its own....
After fitting the new rotors wind the adjuster back or adjust the E-brake completely as its usualy required after replacing the rotors...
-greasing the hub surface and wheel seating surface is good thing to do but extremly thin coat should be used thats why copper is not ideal for this.... Graphite grease is the best as its easy to apply in thin coat and the grease itseld will actualy mostly wash off but the graphite stays in place preventing the parts to rust together..... the reason for the coating to be super thin is that the rotor must sit perfectly flat on the hub to prevent any runout issues and such amount of grease will stop it from being perfectly flat...
This is great information and I appreciate the input! I will pin this post so that our future viewers can benefit from it.
@@drivewrenchrepeat Keep up the work your videos are greatly detailed and covering the important jobs on the 1er 👍🏼
Earned a new subscriber and i will definetly recommend your guides and videos
Wish I read the comments before I did this job…
This is the best diy video I’ve seen, great stuff
I incorrectly narrated that the rear caliper bracket mounting bolts require E16 to remove. The front bolts are E16, but the rear's are a regular 16mm socket. -Daniel
Also I’m trying to find the torque specs because 81 ft•lbs seems to high as on my 335i I know it’s like 48 ft•lbs, and this other website says they should be the same on my dads 135i but I’m just not sure since they’re more heavy duty calipers. Where I saw the specs they said the front was 81 and the rear is 48 I think
As you found, don't loosen the rotor until the caliper is removed. It's much harder to remove a caliper with a moving rotor than a jamming a screwdriver/stopping the rotor to remove the rotor screw. Good job :)
Great video! The best check on a rotor if it looks OK is to check the thickness. It has a minimum thickness. Mine were in pretty good shape visually but when I checked the thickness, it was almost all the way down to the minimum.
Good tool list. Certainly people can do it by hand without any kind of battery operated tools if they want to. That would save hundreds in tool costs if you’re on the cheap. Great comparison though.
I don’t know if you read this but i want to thank you very much i did this my self fallowing this direction… thank so so much
That’s great to hear! We’re glad you found it helpful and saved $$$
If you plan on tracking the car, its recommended to upgrade the piston and seals of the front caliper. The material used for the stock seals and pistons are prone to cracking and get jammed when subject to extreme heat. FCP Euro sell the upgrade kit to fix the issue.
Thanks for this comment. Our viewers who plan on tracking the 1 series will appreciate this!
Nice video. I’ve never seen these mud flap type extentions on the wheel arches of an E82 before.
They are oem however no longer available through BMW. But I have heard you can use 2 series mud flaps with very little modification.
Thanks for the video! I'm about to do this to my 135i.
Just bought a low miles 135i because of videos like yours, I wish I had seen this earlier! I wouldv'e been even more excited to get mine! Catching up on the whole series now :D
Congratulations on the new car! Hope you find our series in the 135i helpful!
very informative, loved the vid. Hope you guys keep going.
excellent, thorough vid. thanks!
Rear brake bolt is just a normal 16mm, e16 would be e-torx
I have a 2008 135i convertible non M car but I do have the brembo calipers at front but normal calipers at the rear so my rn I have an issue can't find the brakes
Thank you for this video
Where do you talk about the porsche caliper bolts that you included in the description?
@David-ei4ff It's from 10:52 to 11:44
I ordered the same brake kit, mine came with a brake pad wear sensor. Not sure where that goes? Any idea ? Yours didn’t come with that.
You can watch this video for the sensors: ruclips.net/video/UV-0NseI4C0/видео.html
Great video, thank you. To replace the rotors only I don't need to remove the screws holding the pads correct? All I need to do is to remove the 2 E16mm bolts for the front and 16mm bolts for the back. Old owner replaced pads a few months go but not the rotors. Thank you.
Hey Oscar, to replace the rotors, the calipers need to be removed completely. Otherwise, you won't be able to remove the old and install new rotors even if you're not replacing the brake pads. If you have additional questions around this, feel free to DM us @drive_wrench_repeat on IG.
Than you. I ended up replacing rotors and pads for all 4 sides. Like someone mentioned, you dont have to touch to the torxs screws on the caliper. I only removed both allen screws and removed caliper and pads were able to put back in place with no issues. Keep up the great videos.
Is there a reason the brake sensors aren't covered here? Shoudln't they be replaced each time you do the pads?
The sensors are included in the brake kit and should definitely be replaced when performing this job. I forgot to include that process in the video, so thanks for pointing that out!
Anyone viewing this comment can refer to this video for swapping out the sensors: ruclips.net/video/UV-0NseI4C0/видео.html
@@drivewrenchrepeat thanks! And great video one of the best diy I've seen for this car and I'm up to do mine now !
Hey mfpockets, Daniel here from DWR. Please send me a DM on IG @dwr_daniel when you see this!
@@drivewrenchrepeat I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for sharing that other link.
Great video guys. I replaced mine thanks to this video. a few months ago. Question: Do you have squalling issues? Mine squeal so bad high pitch sound only when hot stop and go condition. Light braking. Planning to replace pads with ceramic ones? Or at least add anti squeal paste?
Hey there, no we didn’t have any squeaking issues. Did you replace both the rotors and the pads? Or just one of the two?
What brand or type of copper anti-seize is that ?
iirc it's from Permatex
Are you using R18 wheels?
Apex EC7 Front: 18x8.5" ET45 with 235/40-18 tires // Rear: 18x9.5" ET58 with 265/35-18 tires
@drivewrenchrepeat thank you! I'm asking because looks like the owner before me put another calipers from a 2014 x1 s28i and also the discs are from the 2014 x1 s28i idk why he did that
Cool content bout to change my brakes now, you guys got Instagram
Yes sir! @drive_wrench_repeat
Copper grease for aluminum 😢
Great content, thank you for sharing knowledge.