How fast can I de-engine a 2002-2006 MINI Cooper? Watch to find out! Think you can guess right? Ready, set, go! I time myself removing the engine and transmission from a first generation MINI Cooper S. This is the fourth or fifth time I've done this and I think I've figured out the fastest way. I show you how. **Note: It's a little quicker by leaving the harness on the engine and disconnecting the high amperage cables from the bottom of the fuse box, a ground wire connected directly under the fuse box, the round harness connection next to the AC charge port, and another ground cable right behind the round harness connection. Garage lift: www.ezcarlift.com Engine hoist: Harbor Freight MINI Cooper Tools: amzn.to/2Eb1S6C Gen 1 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2pOIPER Thanks for watching!
@@toadamazula An automatic or a manual transmission? if automatic, you'll probably need a dealer visit or NCSExpert to make it work. Maybe even if manual. If by "computer" you mean the ECU (car has many computers), be aware you will also need EWS (immobilizer), key and key cylinder from the same car.
@@ModMINI I am putting a 6-speed Getrag G285 from an 05 R53 in my 05 R50. There are a couple of forums where people detail doing the swap. I knew I would need the ECU but I don't remember anyone mentioning the EWS and key cylinders. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to make such clear and understandable videos. My first car was a 1969 Triumph Spitfire so I've never been afraid of working on my cars but your videos are phenomenal and make it feel like I really know my Mini. The Bentley manual fills in most everything else but your videos are indispensable.
@@toadamazulaI haven't done that sort of job myself but have talked with people who have, and I'm pretty sure car will not start if you just swap the ECU. But I could be wrong.
That was scarily impressive. You've obviously done this a few times, to remember everything that needs disconnecting. Mind you, it must help having such a corrosion free motor to work on. Living here in the rain-swept, salty-roaded UK, at 1 hour 16 minutes into the job, I'd probably still be wrestling with and swearing at the first rusted solid nut.
You have helped me so much this week, removing two engines and installing one. I am now watching your engine rebuild videos... Thank you so much for these videos... Truly excellent.
You are very knowledgeable in what you do. We are so fortunate to have a gentleman to take his time to show us in detail how to perform such a complicated process, without guys like you, fake news would be king, and we would be the blind leading the blind!
Thankyou. This has been very useful! I used this video to aid me removing my sons engine to replace the clutch and oil seals. One useful tip though... It isn't necessary to remove any electrical connections from the engine, except the starter motor wires, just disconnect the 3 multi-plugs from the ECU, the fuse box and the right hand chassis rail.
Who are the sad 6 viewers that gave this video a thumbs down? REALLY .....Thanks for all your videos, I respect your efficiency and love to watch a pro at work! I hope you to watch any r56 second gen videos.
There are so many junks connected to the engine before you can even get through it, which is NOT a good concept. That is probably the reason why there are SAD? people that give a thumbs down. You got to have tons of patience to be a mechanic for this kind of car. Sorry to say but there are so much junks in it. Heck mine as well tore down the whole car! lol...
Most American Technicians won't even touch this European ....stuff due to the "German or European engineering" If the shop does take in a European car they charge extra
Thank you so much Mr modmini for the patience of sharing your knowledge with us. We have 2 r50 's one with a bad 5 speed transmission and the other one with a knock on the engine. And your videos have given us the courage to start disassembling both. Thank you !
I keep re-watching this, thinking that pulling the engine would make replacing the clutch and flyhweel so much easier than dropping the subframe. Not so much the number of things you disconnect, but avoiding all the time you spend getting the transmission splined back in place. And you can be sure to avoid needing a wheel alignment. But it seems like most people still prefer to leave the engine and drop the subframe instead.
I've done it both ways. I do a lot of clutch swaps and I always just leave the engine in. I guess it is less risky to just drop the subframe. If you don't change ball joints I've never seen a car that needs a wheel alignment just for removing the subframe. There are alignment dowels that ensure it goes back exactly the way it came out. Maybe next time I'll try removing the engine instead. Those oil cooler and heater core hoses can be sticky and tough to remove, and that's two more places for coolant to get all over the ground. Other viewers feel free to comment?
@@ModMINI 5 years late, but yeah I’d definitely want to see you complete a clutch replacement using engine removal method. Seems to be less complicated and a time saver, since a subframe refresh can be accomplished another day.
You really know these Mins well don`t you, nice job! O and thanks you helped me out last year when replacing a Clutch for a customer me and another auto tech viewed your video before we started and we both believed it saved us a lot of time . Thanks Again!
A joy to watch. I just got a R53 2004 with 53,000 miles on it. Love it to bits. As a boy in the 70s we used to do minis up and drive them to school aged 15. Different game now. I check your stuff as I know I will need it one day. If you could recommend anything to help the cars performance would be appreciated. Thanks
Nice... R53 engine bay is very compact. I expect it is double the time in reverse. When I had my R53 engine (motor) taken out for a rebuild it was certainly messy. You have done a clean job.
I followed this video and got my engine out. it took me three days. impact wrench would have been nice. I'm glad I only broke a couple of things. without a video like this it would never have been done.
Good job. People sometimes ask me how long a job takes - that's very hard to answer as everyone works at different speeds with different experience and has access to different levels of tools. Yeah, there are a half dozen or so bolts which are really tedious without an impact wrench.
wow. thats awesome quick work. it'd probably take me a good day by myself to do all that lol. thanks for the instructional videos, its been very helpful in doing various work on my r53!
Liked and subscribed! Mighty fine work you're doing there. I've been hankerin' for a Mini as of late and the used ones are starting to get in my price range. Videos like this are a great source of information for those of us that work on our own cars.
If I needed to remove my engine I would challenge your time haha. I am sure I would finish in three times the time it took you. That is if I'm watching your video otherwise I would probably never figure it out! You are a total pro.
Thanks for watching. I changed how I remove engines now. I disconnect the wiring harness from the car and leave it connected to the engine. Saves about 5-10 minutes.
Having just replaced the gearbox on my R50 Cooper(Not an S) I now find myself having to change the engine.As No 4 cylinder has no compression.And being quoted silly amounts to do the repair.It seems cheaper for me to swap out the engine with another that i've sourced.I'm just hoping that with watching your step through i'll be able to do it.Obviously take me a bit longer than 1hr16 lol.
Awesome video, liked and subscribed🙂, also the best head camera video footage that I have watched on youtube. Looking forward to watch all your videos on your channel and thank you for sharing your knowledge
oh to have you as a neighbor...i'm very good mechanically, but very slow. wiring harnesses are intimidating because i always think i'm going to forget where two similar things went or things won't go in smoothly as they came out. i've done two 1970s vintage bmw 3.0 motors, a volvo 242gt, and by far my volkswagen tdi beetle is the biggest pain to work on - but wait, there's more...i just bought a 2005 cooper s convertible and after seeing what's involved, i hope it never breaks!
That's exactly my thought and I'll be attempting this in a few weeks. Holding off on front crank seal since that is still super accessible with engine in frame (and crank pulley still has life).
Proper feeling ur vids, thnx 4 posting this one. Love the BMW R53 Cooper S & of course the JCW which I now have. Only thing with Minis the engine is so "compact together" u have to move 5 or more things, just to get to do a job on 1 particular part. Anyway I'm Now a Subscriber keep up the Good Work. Well since u done this u might as well go all the way & do a Reversal ? Putting the engine together from scratch - on the clock ! Now that I would love to see bro... Spk 2 u soon.
Perfect in depth video of removing my *hit engine. I do believe I can do this. I don't think I could put it back together the way I took it apart though. This would be my first engine pull
Good work there, did you know you don't need to undress the engine harness whilst it's still in the car? You can remove the associated plugs from the bottom of the fuse box and the twist connector and earth point on the lh chassis leg, all the fuse box plugs only go back where they came from so no chance of refitting wrong
After recently following your clutch change video, I'm going to say, you make it look alot easier to pull the engine and box in one, and swap the clutch off the car. Anyway great vids, thanks alot for uploading.
+behenjamin If you have a cherry picker, it just might be the better option. It also wouldn't be that hard to put the hubs back together and roll the car out of the garage if you need it for something else. I think it's maybe a 50/50 tossup time-wise. A lot of the steps would be the same for both methods.
Massively impressive. You make it seem faster to get to the clutch by taking the engine out... But I think the time saved will be spent refilling fluids and bleeding air. Going to go rewatch your clutch video now. Lol.
@@ModMINI copy. I'm not planning on removing the engine. I've caught up on enough videos. I think the bar support you show for manipulating engine height plus an engine lift on the bell housing to lower that might be the magic sauce. Maybe that second person can help me tease the bell housing back up to the right height or maybe I just use the engine bay support bar for that since it has a second chain and the second person can raise and lower the bell housing from there for me with fine adjustments. That would require the transmission lift from the bottom to get it close and the top bar for final alignment.
I'm currently taking the engine out of my mini r52. I'm 2 days in and only about half as far as you are! I'm hoping that slow and steady will reduce the risk of breakages. Currently doing battle with one of the lower ball joints - its not budging. I've tried a ball joint clamp tool and then a good old lump hammer. No joy. Tomorrow's another day though...
Was this the same Cooper that had the head gasket replaced ? Enjoy your videos, I feel more confident working on my own Mini after watching your videos. Just wondering about the engine removed if it was the same car as the head gasket job or what the reason for removing the engine.
I replaced the transmission on my R50 with a six-speed from an R53 after removing the subframe with the engine in the car so I appreciate what it takes to do this kind of work. If I'm replacing a bad engine on with a good one is this method the easiest for Gen1 S models? I'd keep the existing transmission.
Brilliant video, it is so nice to see components come apart from a very cluttered engine compartment. As a fellow RUclips author I know how difficult that can be, and I am amazed at how quickly you work. I've been searching for the cause of a short to ground on the D-bus of a 2005 R50, and to my surprise it persists even after disconnecting all the modules. I'm left with the challenge of tracing all those wires to try and find a central Diagnostic Bus splice that is shown schematically but not labelled or described in the dealers repair manual. Presumably it is behind the dash, although I wonder if it is in the middle of the 'octopus' you show in this video. You wouldn't happen to know where that central Diagnostic Bus splice is, would you?
I'm not familiar with central diagnostic bus. The wiring in the engine bay is only to sensors and stuff on the engine. The only electronics in the engine bay is the ECU itself.
@@ModMINI Thanks for the response. I solved the problem, and posted a video since there isn't much out there showing details of bus repair in the Mini. As I suspected the splice is behind the instrument cluster in the midline under the dash, but ultimately my shorted wire was the D-bus wire, on its way to the power steering module. You've got an excellent channel, I've been working through your video set. Dave
well, for step one my drain plug fell exactly into the hole of my catch can and stopped it completely. 20 minutes cleaning that mess up. Then I noticed a rounded manifold bolt, and a lot more rust and oil than that spotless engine bay. So I'll budget, say, two hours to complete this project - right? Or maybe that should be entire weekends haha
Sorry this was my comment not the other person's lol Having just replaced the gearbox on my R50 Cooper(Not an S) I now find myself having to change the engine.As No 4 cylinder has no compression.And being quoted silly amounts to do the repair.It seems cheaper for me to swap out the engine with another that i've sourced.I'm just hoping that with watching your step through i'll be able to do it.Obviously take me a bit longer than 1hr16
At some point I have to do clutch/flywheel/crank seal and timing chain so I’m probably just going to whip the entire engine out, thanks to your vid it seems the most sensible option. While I’m there I can check for oil leaks and sort where necessary
I owe you at least a case of beer. Thanks for all the effort you put into these vids. I have an R53 that has had most of the common issues accumulate, so I bit the bullet and pulled the motor to tackle all the items in one shot. Clutch, pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket, crank sensor o-ring, supercharger oil change and pulley upgrade, I did the works. Bought all the tools and parts you recommended. Back on the road and loving it. Offer for you - I purchased a front control arm bushing replacement tool kit to press out the old and install the polyurethane replacements (worked great, seemed less fiddly than thread all). Would you like it? I will never use it again, and would be happy to ship it to you if its a tool you'd like for your arsenal. Just reply if you'd like it and I will send it on. Many thanks and great work! Keep on posting!
Mad skill sets but what I like is after all these years you still film working on your back with 4 jack stands just like a typical DIYer. My only problem is as I get older and don't move as well, the 18" under the car seems to get smaller and smaller.I need a bigger jack (or that floor lift you have in the notes). Not withstanding your 2014 build of the 244 hp beast this is not my daily driver but I know eventually it will no longer be cost effective even as a toy. I need move on to a newer one but like me the newer models seem to just keep getting bigger losing that go-cart feel and the whine of a supercharger.
Your proficiency in doing this is astounding. You put most professional mechanics to shame. Will you put a LSD in my 05 Mini if I pay for your trouble? I know it is your hobby.
What a pro. I think you've probably done this so many times that you remember every connection and bolts on top of your head. I did the control arm bushings myself and it was a PIA. How do you keep track of all the bolts? My mini needs some servicing (clutch, seals, pulley upgrade) when I have time. While I'm at, it I'll change all the fluids, new brakes and whatever suspension upgrades I can think of. Pulling the engine does make everything easier. The cost of parts and tools will cost me over a thousand dollars, but it's much better than the price I am expected to pay at the stealer of at least 5K.
Kevin Nguyen I’ve worked on enough cars that in most cases I can just remember what goes where. I do put bolts in piles or trays near the part it went with. Sometimes I’ll thread it back in.
Really an awesome collection of r53 videos! I'm getting ready to switch (with the help of your video) a donor motor from a 2003 s to a 2005 s, is there anything I should expect that won't cross over smoothly?
How many miles did the mini have on it? I am looking at getting a 2007 mini convertible S r53 (sidewalk edition) with 67k miles on it and seems to have a good service record but trying to get a feel for the reliability of this before major problems begin killing my bank account.
Hey man great videos, all of them have helped me get through things on my 02 cooper s. But I was wondering if you have ever planned on doing a timing chain replacement video? My car is making that death rattle and I have been looking for all kinds of videos to kind of help me get through this before I actually do anything to the car. Like, is it easier to remove the engine to to the timing chain? Or would it be better to leave the engine inside and take off the fender on that side of the car?
Some people recommend removing the engine to change a clutch. If you can get the engine out in just over an hour, would that almost be easier than removing the subframe and fighting with the transmission?
+Aj Anderson I've de-engined several MINIs in the last few months and I suspect it's around the same time either way honestly. This is definitely the less dirty way - less time rolling around on the ground. More fancy tools are needed to remove the engine of course because you'll need an engine hoist. And you miss the chance to refresh some suspension components.
Cool. seems more involved than my 08 clubman would be. Knock on wood that i just hit 100000 with having only a thermostat , mechanical water pump and turbo oil feed line replaced on it. Probably will start having to replace stuff I'm guessing. Was hoping to get 150000 before i rebuild the engine and changed the clutch. Always informative. Thanks.
I recently purchased an 04 Cooper S MC40 and it is in need of a clutch replacement. Your videos have been a lifesaver and I am thankful that you share your knowlege! I started by removing the subframe and planned to only drop the transmission. Now I am taking out the engine as I am going to replace the timing chains and other seals and gaskets. I also want to refresh the suspension and some of the ball joints need replacing. Now that the engine is comming out can I install the subframe first and then the engine and transmission as a single unit as that seems to be easier than installing the subframe after the engine and transmission?
How fast can I de-engine a 2002-2006 MINI Cooper? Watch to find out! Think you can guess right? Ready, set, go!
I time myself removing the engine and transmission from a first generation MINI Cooper S. This is the fourth or fifth time I've done this and I think I've figured out the fastest way. I show you how.
**Note: It's a little quicker by leaving the harness on the engine and disconnecting the high amperage cables from the bottom of the fuse box, a ground wire connected directly under the fuse box, the round harness connection next to the AC charge port, and another ground cable right behind the round harness connection.
Garage lift: www.ezcarlift.com
Engine hoist: Harbor Freight
MINI Cooper Tools: amzn.to/2Eb1S6C
Gen 1 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2pOIPER
Thanks for watching!
Can you make a video showing some of the special tools required for this and other jobs on the r53? That would be tits!
I'm about to buy a 05 R53 transmission with computer and attempt to swap it into my R50 with CVT. Do you have any advice, tips, pointers, caveats?
@@toadamazula An automatic or a manual transmission? if automatic, you'll probably need a dealer visit or NCSExpert to make it work. Maybe even if manual. If by "computer" you mean the ECU (car has many computers), be aware you will also need EWS (immobilizer), key and key cylinder from the same car.
@@ModMINI I am putting a 6-speed Getrag G285 from an 05 R53 in my 05 R50. There are a couple of forums where people detail doing the swap. I knew I would need the ECU but I don't remember anyone mentioning the EWS and key cylinders.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to make such clear and understandable videos. My first car was a 1969 Triumph Spitfire so I've never been afraid of working on my cars but your videos are phenomenal and make it feel like I really know my Mini. The Bentley manual fills in most everything else but your videos are indispensable.
@@toadamazulaI haven't done that sort of job myself but have talked with people who have, and I'm pretty sure car will not start if you just swap the ECU. But I could be wrong.
That was scarily impressive. You've obviously done this a few times, to remember everything that needs disconnecting.
Mind you, it must help having such a corrosion free motor to work on. Living here in the rain-swept, salty-roaded UK, at 1 hour 16 minutes into the job, I'd probably still be wrestling with and swearing at the first rusted solid nut.
I started this job at the same time as you mate, but I'm still smoking and finishing my coffee
You have helped me so much this week, removing two engines and installing one. I am now watching your engine rebuild videos... Thank you so much for these videos... Truly excellent.
You are very knowledgeable in what you do. We are so fortunate to have a gentleman to take his time to show us in detail how to perform such a complicated process, without guys like you, fake news would be king, and we would be the blind leading the blind!
Thankyou. This has been very useful! I used this video to aid me removing my sons engine to replace the clutch and oil seals. One useful tip though... It isn't necessary to remove any electrical connections from the engine, except the starter motor wires, just disconnect the 3 multi-plugs from the ECU, the fuse box and the right hand chassis rail.
Who are the sad 6 viewers that gave this video a thumbs down? REALLY .....Thanks for all your videos, I respect your efficiency and love to watch a pro at work! I hope you to watch any r56 second gen videos.
There are so many junks connected to the engine before you can even get through it, which is NOT a good concept. That is probably the reason why there are SAD? people that give a thumbs down. You got to have tons of patience to be a mechanic for this kind of car. Sorry to say but there are so much junks in it. Heck mine as well tore down the whole car! lol...
Most American Technicians won't even touch this European ....stuff due to the "German or European engineering" If the shop does take in a European car they charge extra
Most likely the bmw agents
I think they were just confused and clicked on the wrong icon, they meant thumbs up.
Another great video ! combined, your videos have saved me a small fortune in labour with servicing and repairing my R50 and R53. Thanks again.
Thank you so much Mr modmini for the patience of sharing your knowledge with us. We have 2 r50 's one with a bad 5 speed transmission and the other one with a knock on the engine. And your videos have given us the courage to start disassembling both. Thank you !
I keep re-watching this, thinking that pulling the engine would make replacing the clutch and flyhweel so much easier than dropping the subframe. Not so much the number of things you disconnect, but avoiding all the time you spend getting the transmission splined back in place. And you can be sure to avoid needing a wheel alignment. But it seems like most people still prefer to leave the engine and drop the subframe instead.
I've done it both ways. I do a lot of clutch swaps and I always just leave the engine in. I guess it is less risky to just drop the subframe. If you don't change ball joints I've never seen a car that needs a wheel alignment just for removing the subframe. There are alignment dowels that ensure it goes back exactly the way it came out. Maybe next time I'll try removing the engine instead. Those oil cooler and heater core hoses can be sticky and tough to remove, and that's two more places for coolant to get all over the ground. Other viewers feel free to comment?
@@ModMINI 5 years late, but yeah I’d definitely want to see you complete a clutch replacement using engine removal method. Seems to be less complicated and a time saver, since a subframe refresh can be accomplished another day.
You really know these Mins well don`t you, nice job! O and thanks you helped me out last year when replacing a Clutch for a customer me and another auto tech viewed your video before we started and we both believed it saved us a lot of time . Thanks Again!
Thanks, your videos are the best! R52/53 for the Win!!
never seen anyone work some fast and so much knowledge of mini cars.....awesome...wish you were my mechanic in Australia!!!!!!!
Love your videos, given me the confidence to do lots of different jobs on my R53 myself. Thank you!
This was awesome! I can't even imagine attempting to remove an engine, let alone do it in under two hours.
Great Job! You make this look easy, and I know it's not. I helped my dad for years on older cars and these little things are a beast.
Bravo! You really know the R53. Very illustrative. Thanks for the experience!
Got my R53 last year and it threw a rod so finding this video was super informative for when I go to replace mine. Thank you!
A joy to watch. I just got a R53 2004 with 53,000 miles on it. Love it to bits. As a boy in the 70s we used to do minis up and drive them to school aged 15. Different game now.
I check your stuff as I know I will need it one day. If you could recommend anything to help the cars performance would be appreciated. Thanks
I must say that is impressive. Mini is next VW cult, and I am hooked, thanks to you !
Nice... R53 engine bay is very compact. I expect it is double the time in reverse. When I had my R53 engine (motor) taken out for a rebuild it was certainly messy. You have done a clean job.
+SirPablo2Pablo It is probably less than double but it does take longer, need to properly tighten stuff down, route wires and refill fluids, etc.
U know everything about minis great job master
Great job brudda anyone that gives a thumbs down is not are our level and can't accomplish what you did 👍
Very impressive, every tool ready to go and you don't even need the shop manual. Nice work.
2023 and still goes strong! This is helping me a lot with my Mini S 2004
This is a complete class of mecanic, thanks for the video, very helpful.
I followed this video and got my engine out. it took me three days. impact wrench would have been nice. I'm glad I only broke a couple of things.
without a video like this it would never have been done.
Good job. People sometimes ask me how long a job takes - that's very hard to answer as everyone works at different speeds with different experience and has access to different levels of tools. Yeah, there are a half dozen or so bolts which are really tedious without an impact wrench.
wow. thats awesome quick work. it'd probably take me a good day by myself to do all that lol. thanks for the instructional videos, its been very helpful in doing various work on my r53!
One of the best videos I've ever seen.
How on gods green earth do you remember all this!!!!????? And never mind putting it all back together...amazing job
Do it a dozen times...
Pleasure watching you work.
Liked and subscribed! Mighty fine work you're doing there. I've been hankerin' for a Mini as of late and the used ones are starting to get in my price range. Videos like this are a great source of information for those of us that work on our own cars.
Ottimo lavoro, I tuoi video mi stanno aiutando tanto per la mia Mini r53, grazie. Saluti dall'Italia.
Grazie par il comment
Thanks for posting such a detailed engine removal . Lots to learn from your videos !
Very nice! You did it quickly, but did not compromise the quality of your work! Well done.
Wait til you see how much quality is compromised putting it back in :-)
@@ModMINI So damn funny!
This guy is really good! I am very impressed! Very well done. Thanks for posting this.
If I needed to remove my engine I would challenge your time haha. I am sure I would finish in three times the time it took you. That is if I'm watching your video otherwise I would probably never figure it out! You are a total pro.
Ahhh..so scary fast. Love your videos. Taught me so much. Thanks from Scotland.
Thanks for watching. I changed how I remove engines now. I disconnect the wiring harness from the car and leave it connected to the engine. Saves about 5-10 minutes.
Awesome, You do a great job and so relaxed too the rest of us are like- oh crap,oh crap.
Having just replaced the gearbox on my R50 Cooper(Not an S) I now find myself having to change the engine.As No 4 cylinder has no compression.And being quoted silly amounts to do the repair.It seems cheaper for me to swap out the engine with another that i've sourced.I'm just hoping that with watching your step through i'll be able to do it.Obviously take me a bit longer than 1hr16 lol.
I am so amazed at the lack of rust on the bottom of this car. I have not seen an R53 this clean since 2006.
They are all this clean around here. Except the cars originally from the US east coast.
Excellent video, lots of useful information, many thanks. Keep the videos coming, I totally enjoy them...cheers, Wolfie
THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR MINI VIDEOS!!!!!!
You are crazy man ! Nice Job ! 👍👍👌
Buddy and I had this on loop for infotainment while pulling an R53 motor today.
Excellent video ...great work!
I watch these MINI repair videos and am so happy I don't own one or have to work on it. What a PITA!!!!!
Thanks again for another awesome video. Keep up the great work!!!!
Awesome video, liked and subscribed🙂, also the best head camera video footage that I have watched on youtube. Looking forward to watch all your videos on your channel and thank you for sharing your knowledge
oh to have you as a neighbor...i'm very good mechanically, but very slow. wiring harnesses are intimidating because i always think i'm going to forget where two similar things went or things won't go in smoothly as they came out. i've done two 1970s vintage bmw 3.0 motors, a volvo 242gt, and by far my volkswagen tdi beetle is the biggest pain to work on - but wait, there's more...i just bought a 2005 cooper s convertible and after seeing what's involved, i hope it never breaks!
Nice work. Very impressive.
Seems like the best way to do a bunch of things on the car at the same time like redoing most of the seals, new clutch, new pulleys and tensioner.
That's exactly my thought and I'll be attempting this in a few weeks. Holding off on front crank seal since that is still super accessible with engine in frame (and crank pulley still has life).
Proper feeling ur vids, thnx 4 posting this one.
Love the BMW R53 Cooper S & of course the JCW which I now have.
Only thing with Minis the engine is so "compact together" u have to move 5 or more things, just to get to do a job on 1 particular part.
Anyway I'm Now a Subscriber keep up the Good Work.
Well since u done this u might as well go all the way & do a Reversal ?
Putting the engine together from scratch - on the clock !
Now that I would love to see bro...
Spk 2 u soon.
you make it look easy.
Probably quicker than most mini dealerships
+Luca Car Mods I'd guess book time for removal is easily 5 hours.
Probably quicker than the time it takes me to remove the front wheels :)
Wow this is a gem video for mini owner thanks a lot
master plug on the electrics allows you to leave all the spaghetti wiring in place.
Finding the bolts launched across the floor takes longer too
Perfect in depth video of removing my *hit engine. I do believe I can do this.
I don't think I could put it back together the way I took it apart though. This would be my first engine pull
Take lots of pictures. I show pretty much everything in this video however.
i need to replace the clutch on my r53 mini would you say its easier toremove the engine to do it or remove the subframe to do it? cheer
you are the man .. impressive sir.
Awesome lift! And thanks for this vid.
Good work there, did you know you don't need to undress the engine harness whilst it's still in the car? You can remove the associated plugs from the bottom of the fuse box and the twist connector and earth point on the lh chassis leg, all the fuse box plugs only go back where they came from so no chance of refitting wrong
+mini_dub oakman Interesting, I'll have to try that next time.
After recently following your clutch change video, I'm going to say, you make it look alot easier to pull the engine and box in one, and swap the clutch off the car. Anyway great vids, thanks alot for uploading.
+behenjamin If you have a cherry picker, it just might be the better option. It also wouldn't be that hard to put the hubs back together and roll the car out of the garage if you need it for something else.
I think it's maybe a 50/50 tossup time-wise. A lot of the steps would be the same for both methods.
Massively impressive. You make it seem faster to get to the clutch by taking the engine out... But I think the time saved will be spent refilling fluids and bleeding air. Going to go rewatch your clutch video now. Lol.
It's faster to do without removing engine but may require a few more big tools and you really need two people to realign clutch spline on reassembly.
@@ModMINI copy. I'm not planning on removing the engine. I've caught up on enough videos. I think the bar support you show for manipulating engine height plus an engine lift on the bell housing to lower that might be the magic sauce. Maybe that second person can help me tease the bell housing back up to the right height or maybe I just use the engine bay support bar for that since it has a second chain and the second person can raise and lower the bell housing from there for me with fine adjustments.
That would require the transmission lift from the bottom to get it close and the top bar for final alignment.
Hi Mod, what camera do you use on your head for recording this?
GoPro
wow , your energy ,, your a mini master ,, im impressed ,, nice job ,, your hired ,, lol
Damn, well done and very detailed. Definitely helps me out lol.
I'm currently taking the engine out of my mini r52. I'm 2 days in and only about half as far as you are! I'm hoping that slow and steady will reduce the risk of breakages. Currently doing battle with one of the lower ball joints - its not budging. I've tried a ball joint clamp tool and then a good old lump hammer. No joy. Tomorrow's another day though...
Remove 13mm bolts and use air hammer or cold chisel to pry them out of the knuckles
@@ModMINI good call, thanks. The reciprocating action might do the trick.
Was this the same Cooper that had the head gasket replaced ? Enjoy your videos, I feel more confident working on my own Mini after watching your videos. Just wondering about the engine removed if it was the same car as the head gasket job or what the reason for removing the engine.
great job buddy fast hands
Great video , super detailed, thank you.
was the gear oil only for automatics ? thanks
I replaced the transmission on my R50 with a six-speed from an R53 after removing the subframe with the engine in the car so I appreciate what it takes to do this kind of work.
If I'm replacing a bad engine on with a good one is this method the easiest for Gen1 S models? I'd keep the existing transmission.
You have to remove both transmission and engine when replacing the engine. So yes.
Great job my friend.
Enjoy all your videos - I am prepping to rebuild my 2008 r 56 - any good places to get rebuild kits ? Thanks in advance -Al
Brilliant video, it is so nice to see components come apart from a very cluttered engine compartment. As a fellow RUclips author I know how difficult that can be, and I am amazed at how quickly you work. I've been searching for the cause of a short to ground on the D-bus of a 2005 R50, and to my surprise it persists even after disconnecting all the modules. I'm left with the challenge of tracing all those wires to try and find a central Diagnostic Bus splice that is shown schematically but not labelled or described in the dealers repair manual. Presumably it is behind the dash, although I wonder if it is in the middle of the 'octopus' you show in this video. You wouldn't happen to know where that central Diagnostic Bus splice is, would you?
I'm not familiar with central diagnostic bus. The wiring in the engine bay is only to sensors and stuff on the engine. The only electronics in the engine bay is the ECU itself.
@@ModMINI Thanks for the response. I solved the problem, and posted a video since there isn't much out there showing details of bus repair in the Mini. As I suspected the splice is behind the instrument cluster in the midline under the dash, but ultimately my shorted wire was the D-bus wire, on its way to the power steering module. You've got an excellent channel, I've been working through your video set.
Dave
well, for step one my drain plug fell exactly into the hole of my catch can and stopped it completely. 20 minutes cleaning that mess up. Then I noticed a rounded manifold bolt, and a lot more rust and oil than that spotless engine bay. So I'll budget, say, two hours to complete this project - right? Or maybe that should be entire weekends haha
Sorry this was my comment not the other person's lol
Having just replaced the gearbox on my R50 Cooper(Not an S) I now find myself having to change the engine.As No 4 cylinder has no compression.And being quoted silly amounts to do the repair.It seems cheaper for me to swap out the engine with another that i've sourced.I'm just hoping that with watching your step through i'll be able to do it.Obviously take me a bit longer than 1hr16
At some point I have to do clutch/flywheel/crank seal and timing chain so I’m probably just going to whip the entire engine out, thanks to your vid it seems the most sensible option. While I’m there I can check for oil leaks and sort where necessary
I’m holding off till I’ve got my new garage floor concreted, fingers crossed she’s gonna keep on going till then
Thanks. For safety reasons please do not attempt on gravel or other unstable ground surface
You did it great job
That was quick!
I owe you at least a case of beer. Thanks for all the effort you put into these vids. I have an R53 that has had most of the common issues accumulate, so I bit the bullet and pulled the motor to tackle all the items in one shot. Clutch, pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket, crank sensor o-ring, supercharger oil change and pulley upgrade, I did the works. Bought all the tools and parts you recommended. Back on the road and loving it. Offer for you - I purchased a front control arm bushing replacement tool kit to press out the old and install the polyurethane replacements (worked great, seemed less fiddly than thread all). Would you like it? I will never use it again, and would be happy to ship it to you if its a tool you'd like for your arsenal. Just reply if you'd like it and I will send it on. Many thanks and great work! Keep on posting!
Sure, that would be great. You can email me at kurt (dot) hammond [at) gmail_com
Mad skill sets but what I like is after all these years you still film working on your back with 4 jack stands just like a typical DIYer. My only problem is as I get older and don't move as well, the 18" under the car seems to get smaller and smaller.I need a bigger jack (or that floor lift you have in the notes). Not withstanding your 2014 build of the 244 hp beast this is not my daily driver but I know eventually it will no longer be cost effective even as a toy. I need move on to a newer one but like me the newer models seem to just keep getting bigger losing that go-cart feel and the whine of a supercharger.
I finally got a 2 post lift, but due to space limitations, it only goes up 48 inches (120cm).
I’d love to know what stands you have the car sitting on! They look amazing for doing all sorts of maintenance!
Your proficiency in doing this is astounding. You put most professional mechanics to shame. Will you put a LSD in my 05 Mini if I pay for your trouble? I know it is your hobby.
If you are in Seattle area, send me a PM.
What a pro. I think you've probably done this so many times that you remember every connection and bolts on top of your head. I did the control arm bushings myself and it was a PIA. How do you keep track of all the bolts? My mini needs some servicing (clutch, seals, pulley upgrade) when I have time. While I'm at, it I'll change all the fluids, new brakes and whatever suspension upgrades I can think of. Pulling the engine does make everything easier. The cost of parts and tools will cost me over a thousand dollars, but it's much better than the price I am expected to pay at the stealer of at least 5K.
Kevin Nguyen I’ve worked on enough cars that in most cases I can just remember what goes where. I do put bolts in piles or trays near the part it went with. Sometimes I’ll thread it back in.
Really an awesome collection of r53 videos! I'm getting ready to switch (with the help of your video) a donor motor from a 2003 s to a 2005 s, is there anything I should expect that won't cross over smoothly?
You rock! Wish you were my neighbor!
My neighbors wish I didn't work on cars so much
Hello i inquire about the mini r53 assembly manual i am interested to see you make the machine i want to try some book where can i buy it thanks😊😊
How many miles did the mini have on it? I am looking at getting a 2007 mini convertible S r53 (sidewalk edition) with 67k miles on it and seems to have a good service record but trying to get a feel for the reliability of this before major problems begin killing my bank account.
Damnit man. You are awesome.
Hey man great videos, all of them have helped me get through things on my 02 cooper s. But I was wondering if you have ever planned on doing a timing chain replacement video? My car is making that death rattle and I have been looking for all kinds of videos to kind of help me get through this before I actually do anything to the car. Like, is it easier to remove the engine to to the timing chain? Or would it be better to leave the engine inside and take off the fender on that side of the car?
Ya I could do this no problem - putting it all back together is another question
Some people recommend removing the engine to change a clutch. If you can get the engine out in just over an hour, would that almost be easier than removing the subframe and fighting with the transmission?
+Kirk Abbott I suppose with practice it could be faster... I might have to try it both ways just to see.
+Kirk Abbott really. remove the engine just to change out a clutch?. seems way to involved.
+Aj Anderson I've de-engined several MINIs in the last few months and I suspect it's around the same time either way honestly. This is definitely the less dirty way - less time rolling around on the ground. More fancy tools are needed to remove the engine of course because you'll need an engine hoist. And you miss the chance to refresh some suspension components.
Cool. seems more involved than my 08 clubman would be. Knock on wood that i just hit 100000 with having only a thermostat , mechanical water pump and turbo oil feed line replaced on it. Probably will start having to replace stuff I'm guessing. Was hoping to get 150000 before i rebuild the engine and changed the clutch. Always informative. Thanks.
+Michael Wilson I would guess it is a very similar level of effort for the Clubman. All the same steps honestly.
Does the starter have two high voltage wires on the 13mm stud? I have one larger wire that I cannot figure out where I took it off of.
amazing skills,weld one from the uk👍🏻
I think it took you longer to replace a clutch? Would it save time to pull the engine when doing a clutch?
I recently purchased an 04 Cooper S MC40 and it is in need of a clutch replacement. Your videos have been a lifesaver and I am thankful that you share your knowlege!
I started by removing the subframe and planned to only drop the transmission. Now I am taking out the engine as I am going to replace the timing chains and other seals and gaskets. I also want to refresh the suspension and some of the ball joints need replacing. Now that the engine is comming out can I install the subframe first and then the engine and transmission as a single unit as that seems to be easier than installing the subframe after the engine and transmission?
Great job!