Thanks for watching the video please Subscribe, Like, Comment, Share, and ring that notifications bell. Visit SURVIVOLOGY101 on Facebook, Instagram and twitter. If you want to get your hands on some genuine "Survival Hardware" gear that is handmade by my wife and I, visit www.survivology101.com/ Links in the description will take you to all the items that I discussed via Amazon affiliate link.
@@B61Mod12 Two Australian master snipers gave me the patch when they graduated the High Angle shooting course that I was running out of Hawthorne Nevada.
Fire treating of hickory was historically used by some Native Americans before old world European settlement. I has the effect of hardening and toughening the surface. I believe you can more reliably control the fire treating process on non-dyed wood, as the heat changes can be more precisely judged than when dyed first. I think that one of the principal advantages of drying oil finish (linseed, tung oil etc.) is the fact that they penetrate into the wood with multiple applications. The first few coats of drying oil penetrate deeper if they are blended with turpentine or mineral spirits. If beeswax is applied first the drying oils are blocked from penetrating into the wood. Adding the bees wax after multiple coats of drying have fully cured, would be a more effective method. You can test this out by waxing some wood and then try get paint to adhere to the waxed surface. If I am going to use bees wax, I dissolve some into a drying oil facilitated by heating the oil until beeswax melts and dissolves, and may or may not then thin the blend with turpentine or mineral spirits. The addition of turpentine or mineral spirits can help keep the beeswax and drying oil mixture at a lower viscosity when it cools, and prevents the beeswax from separating out from the solution. I typically start the whole process by blending about 10% pine tar into the initial coats of drying oil mixture. I give an extra amount of this initial mixture around the handle end at top of axe head, or even soak the head end of the axe in the pine tar and oil blend. This will give added protection from moisture in the head, preventing wood rot and mediating wood swelling and shrinkage due to humidity changes. It is noteworthy that pure tung oil finish is much more resistant to water penetration, when it has cured (dried), and is a harder finish, than linseed oil.
I got a buddy who is big into axes. He tuned up an gave me a 80 year old axe for my birthday last year. I don't remember who forged the head but that axe splits logs like nobody's business.
Back in the 50's and 60's my grandfather used a file to shape, big bench top 2 side whet stone, buffing wheel on a hand crank, before he bought a 2 wheel shop grinder, then he used an old belt or horse harness. Pot belly stove provided the heat, Bees wax and BLO and furniture wax. He was a Master Carpenter by trade worked for the TVA. I helped in his basement shop building things, but I was too young and attention span was short. I miss the work he turned out. I do have several pieces he and his father built for furniture for my grandmother/father as wedding furniture before the Great Depression. All of the Shellac is very orange hue. Out on a job, if there was no electrical drop, my grandfather had rip and crosscut hand saws, hatchets, always a knife and chisels. He bought his first chain saw in the mid 60's when he bought lake property. Rainy days were used to set/reset and sharpen hand saws in his shop. Various round files and triangle cut and the hand reset tool. He could do it for hours, he knew he needed his saws again soon. East Tennessee and in the mountains.
No, it doesent really serve any purpose unless you round it off to make a flay pol for skinning large game. But since the pol is actully deformed on these cheaper axes I had to re shape it so if I am going that far its not much more effor to give it a shine.
That's a great effect. Reminds of a coral snake. Usually when I mod a hatchet, I do a turks head wrap with paracord for cushion and grip. Last one I did was black and orange for visibility. If I find pics, I'll post them.
Awesome job, even if it isn’t a tool anymore. I was also expecting some changes on the blade’s shape. I’m planing on cutting a curve on mine, from the heel to the bottom of the eye. Btw, the raw handle looks light and almost too elegant for a working axe. 👏
Good work on your hatchet, it turned out great. I've got lots of axes, tomahawks and hatchets, couldn't say off hand how many. I've tuned and customized all them. No axe comes finished and ready for work, they can all be improved imo. The last two I worked on was a Stubai hatchet and a Prandi Trenton pattern axe. The Stubai is pretty much a belt axe which weighs around a pound. The Prandi is like a giant tomahawk in some ways, the head slips on and it weighs a little over three pounds. It looks like a Dane axe from the Viking age. I stripped both by hand and reprofiled the edges so they are very thin and cut extremely deep. I took them both to five thousand grit so they have mirror finishes. Then I thinned the handles and made a custom dye and burned thousands of tiny dots on the bottom part of the Prandi haft to give it a super grippy grip. After that I gave them a beeswax and orange oil finish. It took weeks of hand sanding to finish them and no power tool touched them. Definitely not the most effective way to customize an axe but I'd call it a bonding experience where you get to know your axe intimately. And of course they both bit me during this. They don't really love you until they give you a love bite. 😆
Great work Norseman. I've re-hung an old axe from the shed for my Dad. Sharpened, polished the head and stained and linseed oiled the handle. He said it looked to nice to use. Learned a lot while doing it and jacked up the first handle but got it all together in the end. I'll have to remember the leather dye/torch technique for the future. Thanks Nate
I really like what you did with the Axe bit but I like to keep the handle the way it is just apply some kind of protective oil or wax after sanding it. i like wood when it naturally darkens and takes that patina.
I tuned up my $15 walmart Ozark trail Hatchet with a small bastard file and some sharpening stones i found at the dollar store. Re did the handle. I have no vice or clamps. I've cut myself countless times, learned tons of lessons and now this $15 Walmart hatchet is one of my favorite hatchets i own..
I never understood people’s obsession with highly polished axe heads. 5 mins of actual work and your beautiful looking mirror polish is shot to hell. All my axes are very sharp, do their jobs flawlessly but also LOOK like they work hard. Not like they should be on a wall. That aside. Great job. Lol.
Its only shiny at the beginning. The only other time is if I touch up the edge on the buffer after sharpening. Aesthetics matter to me, not as much as function but i like my tools to look like they are taken care of.
Double bits look sexy AF cleaned and dresses up. I have an old cruiser that I keep on my saddle. I rehung it and my bro at Valhalla Bound decorated the haft with my shop logo and some knotwork. It is a work of art.
The grit progression would look something like this, 60, 120, 220, 400, scotchbrite, then a buffer wheel. I dont recall exactly what I used but this will work. I didnt change the geometry much. I cleaned up the crappy factory grind and made it even, then basically worked it into a convex grind for durability. Hope that helps and good luck on your project.
I don't really see much point in polishing an axe that far back. That scale is a protective layer. The Husqvarna axes do not come with a ready-to-use edge, but you don't need a mirror finish for an axe to cut properly. I would, however, be inclined to rehaft it to a straight haft. I don't dye hafts, just cold-pressed linseed oil, and finishing with a beeswax polish. But hey, color is nice, too. I just don't do cosmetic distressing.
This whole project is all about personalization of a stock product. Hopefully you found some information that you can use and maybe apply to other tools, not just a hatchet or an axe. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome job, I love the burn work on the handle. I did a video a month or two ago where I tuned up a Hultafors chopping axe on my channel, worked out great and its my new favourite.
Came out looking nice with the tiger striping from the torched dye. Only thing I would have liked to have seen more of would be some more detail explaining about what you're doing and how you're doing it, and any best practices.
@@llsoonerll Afraid not friend. I'm sure that most any local craftsman can do this for you if you show them the video and articulate what you want. But I would love to see how it turns out if you find someone to do it for you.
Not a fan of the burning. It just psychologically makes the axe look weaker as burnt wood is weaker. Also the heads on those hatchets come loose. They used wet wood for savings as storing wood till it dries cost money. . I would have just replaced the handle altogether from scratch with some dry hickory.
If my handle comes loose, and I am absolutely sure that you are right. Then it provides an opportunity to do a re hafting video. The burning is only on the surface but I do understand the psychological effect. Thanks for the info.
Superb......but a tool is a tool........not taking it out and testing it because of the "looks"?.......aside from the edge ,what was done to improve the qualities of this tool?.....cause i was listening what you where saying at the beginning of the video and i was expecting a "technical improvement"....non the less,superb!
The point was to improve the edge quality and the feel of the handle in the hand, that was accomplished. No point in bashing on wood with a dull edge and poorly finished handle before doing that work.
@@MakersMovementDIY my comment was triggered by the words in the beginning of your video "its no point in taking it out and bashing branches,i don't like the handle and i don't like the head........absolutely no reason to testing it because i know i want be happy with it the way it is"........i was searching for videos concerning the husqvarna hatchet and yours was on the list.You did a very nice diy video on cosmetic changes......i was expecting ,seeing your intro,to see if the metal had problems,if the geometry of the head and edge was a problem,if the head is properly aligned from the factory and generally speaking,if it worth buying this tool......that's all,very much appreciated your video,sorry for the misunderstanding if any,in my comment above
I know you're going to hate this, but I say it because you look like a nice man and I know you are needed in their lives. You should think about incorporating a filtrating breathing system to keep metal shavings out of your respiratory system.
I usually do wear a respirator but I don't wear it when I shoot videos. The sound is garbage that way. Maybe Ill start wearing it in the video portions when I am not talking, just so folks can see it as important safety equipment. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
Michael Quigley I wipe it then when I get a thin layer built up I buff it with an old t shirt. That gives it a protective sheen but it still has a good grip.
Is there any particular reason that you used leather dye rather than traditional wood stain? Is it just aesthetics? The ax turned out beautiful! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
No particular reason. Just trying new uses for stuff that I already have. You never really know the capabilities and limitations of these things unless you give them a test run.
I've been working on a tomahawk but haven't messed with a hatchet or axe. I might try some of the thinks you did when I get back to work on my hawk. Another great video. An interesting video might be doi g something similar to an inexpensive knife. Keep them coming.
Survivology 101 but you've done that (and I was saving up for one of yours but my truck decided I didn't need one yet). You could probably make a better hatchet or Tomahawk from scratch but don't make us feel too unworthy. ;-) Are you going to let us see you work that long rifle in the future? Just keep the good knowledge coming.
Michael, I have a lot of practice with knife making but the keys are, grind with light pressure, use sharp belts and bare hands. If the metal gets too warm, then cool it in water. Work slow and be attentive...good luck and thanks for the comment.
Survivology 101 so water will not hurt it and do I dip it in the water as soon as it gets the lest lil warm and thanks for the tips I appreciate it alot
Michael, no water wont hurt it unless you get the metal up to critical temp, that would probably be in the neighborhood of 1300-1500 deg f. Just cool the steel when it gets a little uncomfortable to hold and it will be fine. They are probably tempered at 400-500 degrees so as long as you keep the steel below that you won't do it any damage to the temper.
ill have to say im impressed. where do you get your bees wax at? been looking around and cant to seem to find any local unless i missed it. with that being the leather dye on the handle is awesome and ill think ill be giving that a try on my carpenters hatchet.
I get the bees wax from the local health food store. They sell if for folks making balls and salve. It is a bit expensive but usually a little cheaper if bought in larger quantities. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
Nestta5252 it's not about love it or hate it. I like this hatchet a lot. It is more about increasing the functionality and aesthetics of the tool. At the low price point it is an ideal tool to personalize.
Thanks for watching the video please Subscribe, Like, Comment, Share, and ring that notifications bell. Visit SURVIVOLOGY101 on Facebook, Instagram and twitter. If you want to get your hands on some genuine "Survival Hardware" gear that is handmade by my wife and I, visit www.survivology101.com/
Links in the description will take you to all the items that I discussed via Amazon affiliate link.
Is this the best 50$-ish axe of this size?
Best is a strong word. I have not evaluated every axe of this size and price range. It is a good option in my opinion.
@@MakersMovementDIY
Hi good video , thanks...I want to ask you if you know , is it better for splitting this axe or N7 Fiskars ?
If you don't mind can you tell me about the Australian sniper crossed rifles patch on your cap?
@@B61Mod12 Two Australian master snipers gave me the patch when they graduated the High Angle shooting course that I was running out of Hawthorne Nevada.
Fire treating of hickory was historically used by some Native Americans before old world European settlement. I has the effect of hardening and toughening the surface. I believe you can more reliably control the fire treating process on non-dyed wood, as the heat changes can be more precisely judged than when dyed first. I think that one of the principal advantages of drying oil finish (linseed, tung oil etc.) is the fact that they penetrate into the wood with multiple applications. The first few coats of drying oil penetrate deeper if they are blended with turpentine or mineral spirits. If beeswax is applied first the drying oils are blocked from penetrating into the wood. Adding the bees wax after multiple coats of drying have fully cured, would be a more effective method. You can test this out by waxing some wood and then try get paint to adhere to the waxed surface. If I am going to use bees wax, I dissolve some into a drying oil facilitated by heating the oil until beeswax melts and dissolves, and may or may not then thin the blend with turpentine or mineral spirits. The addition of turpentine or mineral spirits can help keep the beeswax and drying oil mixture at a lower viscosity when it cools, and prevents the beeswax from separating out from the solution. I typically start the whole process by blending about 10% pine tar into the initial coats of drying oil mixture. I give an extra amount of this initial mixture around the handle end at top of axe head, or even soak the head end of the axe in the pine tar and oil blend. This will give added protection from moisture in the head, preventing wood rot and mediating wood swelling and shrinkage due to humidity changes. It is noteworthy that pure tung oil finish is much more resistant to water penetration, when it has cured (dried), and is a harder finish, than linseed oil.
I got a buddy who is big into axes. He tuned up an gave me a 80 year old axe for my birthday last year. I don't remember who forged the head but that axe splits logs like nobody's business.
Great job brother. Thanks for the video.
Back in the 50's and 60's my grandfather used a file to shape, big bench top 2 side whet stone, buffing wheel on a hand crank, before he bought a 2 wheel shop grinder, then he used an old belt or horse harness. Pot belly stove provided the heat, Bees wax and BLO and furniture wax. He was a Master Carpenter by trade worked for the TVA. I helped in his basement shop building things, but I was too young and attention span was short. I miss the work he turned out. I do have several pieces he and his father built for furniture for my grandmother/father as wedding furniture before the Great Depression. All of the Shellac is very orange hue. Out on a job, if there was no electrical drop, my grandfather had rip and crosscut hand saws, hatchets, always a knife and chisels. He bought his first chain saw in the mid 60's when he bought lake property. Rainy days were used to set/reset and sharpen hand saws in his shop. Various round files and triangle cut and the hand reset tool. He could do it for hours, he knew he needed his saws again soon. East Tennessee and in the mountains.
does polishing the head even do anything? i get sharpening it but what purpose does polishing serve?
No, it doesent really serve any purpose unless you round it off to make a flay pol for skinning large game. But since the pol is actully deformed on these cheaper axes I had to re shape it so if I am going that far its not much more effor to give it a shine.
Can help with preventing rust by reducing surface area. Water runs off a flat surface but tends to stick more to a rough one.
That's a great effect. Reminds of a coral snake.
Usually when I mod a hatchet, I do a turks head wrap with paracord for cushion and grip. Last one I did was black and orange for visibility. If I find pics, I'll post them.
I don't like to put any wrap on my hatchets and axes but I would like to see the work that you did.
Awesome job, even if it isn’t a tool anymore. I was also expecting some changes on the blade’s shape. I’m planing on cutting a curve on mine, from the heel to the bottom of the eye.
Btw, the raw handle looks light and almost too elegant for a working axe. 👏
Good work on your hatchet, it turned out great. I've got lots of axes, tomahawks and hatchets, couldn't say off hand how many. I've tuned and customized all them. No axe comes finished and ready for work, they can all be improved imo. The last two I worked on was a Stubai hatchet and a Prandi Trenton pattern axe. The Stubai is pretty much a belt axe which weighs around a pound. The Prandi is like a giant tomahawk in some ways, the head slips on and it weighs a little over three pounds. It looks like a Dane axe from the Viking age. I stripped both by hand and reprofiled the edges so they are very thin and cut extremely deep. I took them both to five thousand grit so they have mirror finishes. Then I thinned the handles and made a custom dye and burned thousands of tiny dots on the bottom part of the Prandi haft to give it a super grippy grip. After that I gave them a beeswax and orange oil finish. It took weeks of hand sanding to finish them and no power tool touched them. Definitely not the most effective way to customize an axe but I'd call it a bonding experience where you get to know your axe intimately. And of course they both bit me during this. They don't really love you until they give you a love bite. 😆
Great work Norseman. I've re-hung an old axe from the shed for my Dad. Sharpened, polished the head and stained and linseed oiled the handle. He said it looked to nice to use. Learned a lot while doing it and jacked up the first handle but got it all together in the end. I'll have to remember the leather dye/torch technique for the future.
Thanks
Nate
Very cool. funny how that works. From trash to treasure with an afternoon of relaxing labor.
I really like what you did with the Axe bit but I like to keep the handle the way it is just apply some kind of protective oil or wax after sanding it. i like wood when it naturally darkens and takes that patina.
I tuned up my $15 walmart Ozark trail Hatchet with a small bastard file and some sharpening stones i found at the dollar store. Re did the handle. I have no vice or clamps. I've cut myself countless times, learned tons of lessons and now this $15 Walmart hatchet is one of my favorite hatchets i own..
Thats awesome man. When I started making knives I didn't have much more than that. Necessity is the mother of invention.
Thanks for the great tips. I have the same hatchet and and used the burning effect on the handle...looks so much better
Awesome. Glad you found that useful.
Awesome work.
I never understood people’s obsession with highly polished axe heads. 5 mins of actual work and your beautiful looking mirror polish is shot to hell. All my axes are very sharp, do their jobs flawlessly but also LOOK like they work hard. Not like they should be on a wall. That aside. Great job. Lol.
Its only shiny at the beginning. The only other time is if I touch up the edge on the buffer after sharpening. Aesthetics matter to me, not as much as function but i like my tools to look like they are taken care of.
Your awesome!! A great teacher for sure,!!! Blessings to you and your family 😇 🇺🇸
MrSIXGUNZ thank you
Nice trick on the leather dye.. Thanks for sharing!
Yea that was pretty cool how it worked out. Definitely adding that to my mental tool box.
I have that AX...you inspired me!
Great video and nice trick with the dye.
thank you
Tuned up my crkt tomahawk using your videos. Did a paracord and leather wrap for the handle though for extra cordage.
Awesome. Those CRKT hawks look pretty cool. I haven't handled one yet but I have my out for them.
Survivology 101 I’ll loan you mine if you want to test drive one.
Well that would take away my excuse to buy another axe .
Have an old double bit my father and I cleaned up and hung for throwing competition.
Thinking about trying some polishing, burning, oil and wax on it.
I'll bet that would be awesome. I love cleaning up old and antique axes.
It's relatively clean now, but I am wanting to try a buff polish on the head and maybe some torch work on the handle
Double bits look sexy AF cleaned and dresses up. I have an old cruiser that I keep on my saddle. I rehung it and my bro at Valhalla Bound decorated the haft with my shop logo and some knotwork. It is a work of art.
Would love to see it some time
@@cp-jc2784 As soon as I can find an excuse to sneak it into a video I will. Hahaha.
I would be interested in knowing the progression of the sandpaper grits on the grinder and did you change the edge geometry. If so, from what to what.
The grit progression would look something like this, 60, 120, 220, 400, scotchbrite, then a buffer wheel. I dont recall exactly what I used but this will work. I didnt change the geometry much. I cleaned up the crappy factory grind and made it even, then basically worked it into a convex grind for durability. Hope that helps and good luck on your project.
Thanks
I missed the video on RUclips subscriptions, but saw the Instagram post for Bad Axe. Click, click & outstanding video......
Im glad that you found it. Thanks for stopping by.
I like the effect with the dye, kinda looks like a coral snake pattern. I just picked up one of these hatchets and will try some of your ideas
like what you did. got the same one to tune. thanks for your help
Looks great. When I did my camp axe I followed the gain of the wood when burning and with a Sedona red dye it looks like a $250 axe
That's awesome. Thanks for sharing your process, I would love to see a picture of it. Survivology101@gmail.com
I don't really see much point in polishing an axe that far back. That scale is a protective layer. The Husqvarna axes do not come with a ready-to-use edge, but you don't need a mirror finish for an axe to cut properly. I would, however, be inclined to rehaft it to a straight haft. I don't dye hafts, just cold-pressed linseed oil, and finishing with a beeswax polish. But hey, color is nice, too. I just don't do cosmetic distressing.
This whole project is all about personalization of a stock product. Hopefully you found some information that you can use and maybe apply to other tools, not just a hatchet or an axe. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome. great upload and a great piece of work.
Nightwalker527 thank you
Awesomeness! Loved it!
Thank you.
Man that baby is sweet. I might have to do that to my husqvarna hatchet
It does help to put a little style into the kit bag, let me know how it works out if you try it.
Awesome job, I love the burn work on the handle. I did a video a month or two ago where I tuned up a Hultafors chopping axe on my channel, worked out great and its my new favourite.
Awesome. A little work really can make an axe or hatchet a work of art that works, thanks for the comment
Came out looking nice with the tiger striping from the torched dye. Only thing I would have liked to have seen more of would be some more detail explaining about what you're doing and how you're doing it, and any best practices.
That is one bad axe ! Great job man!
Thanks Tom.
Nice work !
Thank you
Survivology 101 is this type of work something you also do for a living ? Im interested in that finish for my hatchet but lack the tools
@@llsoonerll Afraid not friend. I'm sure that most any local craftsman can do this for you if you show them the video and articulate what you want. But I would love to see how it turns out if you find someone to do it for you.
Not a fan of the burning. It just psychologically makes the axe look weaker as burnt wood is weaker. Also the heads on those hatchets come loose. They used wet wood for savings as storing wood till it dries cost money. . I would have just replaced the handle altogether from scratch with some dry hickory.
If my handle comes loose, and I am absolutely sure that you are right. Then it provides an opportunity to do a re hafting video. The burning is only on the surface but I do understand the psychological effect. Thanks for the info.
Superb......but a tool is a tool........not taking it out and testing it because of the "looks"?.......aside from the edge ,what was done to improve the qualities of this tool?.....cause i was listening what you where saying at the beginning of the video and i was expecting a "technical improvement"....non the less,superb!
The point was to improve the edge quality and the feel of the handle in the hand, that was accomplished. No point in bashing on wood with a dull edge and poorly finished handle before doing that work.
@@MakersMovementDIY my comment was triggered by the words in the beginning of your video "its no point in taking it out and bashing branches,i don't like the handle and i don't like the head........absolutely no reason to testing it because i know i want be happy with it the way it is"........i was searching for videos concerning the husqvarna hatchet and yours was on the list.You did a very nice diy video on cosmetic changes......i was expecting ,seeing your intro,to see if the metal had problems,if the geometry of the head and edge was a problem,if the head is properly aligned from the factory and generally speaking,if it worth buying this tool......that's all,very much appreciated your video,sorry for the misunderstanding if any,in my comment above
I know you're going to hate this, but I say it because you look like a nice man and I know you are needed in their lives. You should think about incorporating a filtrating breathing system to keep metal shavings out of your respiratory system.
I usually do wear a respirator but I don't wear it when I shoot videos. The sound is garbage that way. Maybe Ill start wearing it in the video portions when I am not talking, just so folks can see it as important safety equipment. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
Another mind blowing demo! After you apply the beeswax do you wipe it or let it dry?
Michael Quigley I wipe it then when I get a thin layer built up I buff it with an old t shirt. That gives it a protective sheen but it still has a good grip.
Awesome, thanks brother.
Is there any particular reason that you used leather dye rather than traditional wood stain? Is it just aesthetics? The ax turned out beautiful! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
No particular reason. Just trying new uses for stuff that I already have. You never really know the capabilities and limitations of these things unless you give them a test run.
I've been working on a tomahawk but haven't messed with a hatchet or axe. I might try some of the thinks you did when I get back to work on my hawk.
Another great video. An interesting video might be doi g something similar to an inexpensive knife.
Keep them coming.
Or I could just build a knife from scratch. That might make a cool video. A little overdone but I haven't done it yet so maybe.
Survivology 101 but you've done that (and I was saving up for one of yours but my truck decided I didn't need one yet). You could probably make a better hatchet or Tomahawk from scratch but don't make us feel too unworthy. ;-)
Are you going to let us see you work that long rifle in the future?
Just keep the good knowledge coming.
How did you keep the head cool wile grinding on it im afraid of messing the heat treat up thanks and great vids by the way
Michael, I have a lot of practice with knife making but the keys are, grind with light pressure, use sharp belts and bare hands. If the metal gets too warm, then cool it in water. Work slow and be attentive...good luck and thanks for the comment.
Survivology 101 so water will not hurt it and do I dip it in the water as soon as it gets the lest lil warm and thanks for the tips I appreciate it alot
Michael, no water wont hurt it unless you get the metal up to critical temp, that would probably be in the neighborhood of 1300-1500 deg f. Just cool the steel when it gets a little uncomfortable to hold and it will be fine. They are probably tempered at 400-500 degrees so as long as you keep the steel below that you won't do it any damage to the temper.
Got my hammer badass thanks
The Norsman turns world on its head and proves.....you can polish a turd...lol.
Well done! I wish I had the shop tools you have to be able to do this with my axe.
Don’t get the handle arts and crafts .. I personally like character that is worked into the tool .. nice workshop man, that makes me jealous!
ill have to say im impressed. where do you get your bees wax at? been looking around and cant to seem to find any local unless i missed it. with that being the leather dye on the handle is awesome and ill think ill be giving that a try on my carpenters hatchet.
I get the bees wax from the local health food store. They sell if for folks making balls and salve. It is a bit expensive but usually a little cheaper if bought in larger quantities. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
@@MakersMovementDIY can you apply the leather stain after your handle has already been lin seed oiled or would I need to strip it again?
Not sure. Give it a try and report back here if it works. This was the first time that I tried leather dye on wood.
I live in a town called Bad Axe
AWESOME
badass
thanks
I want that ax!
Why get it if you hate it off the bat?
Nestta5252 it's not about love it or hate it. I like this hatchet a lot. It is more about increasing the functionality and aesthetics of the tool. At the low price point it is an ideal tool to personalize.
Bro can you make my hatchet look ugly as fuck? Say no more fam i got you.
Looks really ugly for me
To each his own.