Chassis Part 2: Completion
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- In this second part of the chassis construction, we attach the drive-train to the front chassis frame, finish the smaller chassis details before sandblasting it and painting it.
How to Build a Racing Car follows the design and construction of the FVT05, a car built for the Australian Formula Vee racing series. The introduction can be found at • Introduction and Bodyw... .
Support this project on Patreon:
/ thomsenmotorsport
Partners:
Intercad (intercad.com.au/) who provided Solidworks for this project.
JKF Aero (jkfaero.com/) who assisted on the design of the bodywork and undertray.
Also follow the project at:
/ thomsenmotorsport
/ thomsenracecar
Music:
Licenced from Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsou...)
As the Chassis manager for an FSAE team this year I really appreciate these videos, the amount of work you've put into this so far is unbelievable, keep it up! Looking forward to seeing your build progress man
Hey thanks a lot, getting feedback like that helps keep the motivation up to put those hours in. It's been a massive undertaking but it's getting pretty close to completion.
Bro, I bet your dad is an awesome mentor and problem solver. love it so far
I love your choice of music it makes watching and listening to these already great videos so much more entertaining.
Impressive work, very inspirational ! welldone
you and your father make a very good team
Wow, 4 months. Thats a short time considered the complexity of making a car frame. Well done!
Thanks. Didn't feel short!
insanely amazing and inspiring
I'm amazed! I'm a Formula Ford race fan. The videos and commentary are great entertainment. Can't wait to get to the end to see you race it!
Thanks, great to hear. The car has done three rounds so far, two have been uploaded on this channel and the third will go up this week so luckily you won't need to wait to see it race.
this is insane. the ammount of detail and forethought is overwhelming. the video editing so well done and extremely informative. promptly watching the rest of the series in hopes to better educate myself before i start to make my own. thank you!
Awesome videos so far.
Honestly I'm astonished, I guess it helps having some of the facilities to be able to do this type of work, but for me as someone who'd like to try something like this, i'm curious, where did you get the drivetrain from and where can you find the necessary materials and manufacturing tools do do this kind of work?
+edwardfeast my father owns some of the tools and the larger workshop, it certainly helped a lot having access to those. The materials I had to source from various suppliers, the chassis material was particularly difficult to find, it's a specific grade made in a certain way and it wasn't that common. If you do your own project I'd be careful not to underestimate how much time procurement takes. I got the drivetrain from a Formula Vee that had been wrecked in an accident. As far as the tools go, most things my father didn't have I bought off eBay, including the welder.
beautiful and inspirational work.
Hi simon im from south africa.Im also a tig welder with a big interest in building racecar chassis.Great vids!!!
Awesome videos, really enjoy this. Keep em coming!
4 months is very good! That is a lot of work. Very cool!
Looking good. Really like watching it all come together. Thanks for sharing the build with us.
+David Freer Glad you are enjoying it!
+David Freer Glad you are enjoying it!
Awesome!!,, it takes me back to my FSAE days.
Loving watching this build. Inspirational!
I have just found your channel. Very well done. My dad and I recently restored a 1991 VW Bug, and we did all by ourselves. Keep up the good work
Great job on this! One thing though, I’m not sure if it is because of the regulations, but if you can I would recommend moving the fuel tank as far from the driver and engine as possible, because if you do get into an accident and the fuel tanks gets punctured, first, you have hot fuel on you and if it sprays onto the engine it will cause the car to catch on fire or worse, your clothing/body will catch fire; also if your car is hard to get in and out of, you could be trapped in a burning vehicle if the fuel tank ruptures.
Very useful video
i realise this video is almost a year old now, but i really hope that fridge in your garage has some stickers on it by now
+Dylan H haha, that's my father's fridge, ill have to tell him.
Really clean and fine craftsmanship
7 years later and this vid is still providing value. Nice.
I must say though it looks heavy as. Whats the end weight?
keep it up.very well i was able to build my go-kart and could win the local race.thanks
amazing
Amazing. Please keep posting.
Why this man has no millions subscribers???
Awesome
Fantastic series! I was watching your bit on spray painting the car, There is a little trick method of using and electrical current to create charge on the car which would attract the paint molecules to the frame. Not sure of the metal of the frame is capable of producing the static attraction for this to work, but it would've allowed you to use less paint and get a better and more even coverage. Just a little thing I saw on youtube about mass manufactured cars and being efficient on painting them.
Dan, are you referring to powder coating?
All the precision you used to build this chassis is really going to pay off when you set the car up at the track. Should be fairly easy to refine the handling since you're starting with such a well designed and built, stiff chassis. Nothing worse than getting all the corners and cross weight where you need it and have it change while racing due to excessive flex in the wrong areas of your chassis. First class work! Cheers
Thanks. It was the part of the car I was most happy with in the end.
Once again, nice work! I'm glad to hear it took you about 4 months, because that's the same time it took me and I just thought I was terribly slow (:-) .
Certainly felt slow! It's great early on when the progress is very visible but it starts to drag on when it's just little brackets and things being welded on.
Subscribed. These videos are amazing. Loved the work you did and how you beautifully presented it.
Cool - glad to hear it!
unbelievable beautiful work... WOOW!!! so impressed, so congratulations!!!
my god you're amazing. really admire your work
Looks great!
so much work this is crazy but love it, great stuff
Awesome job!
Amazing work so far!
Awesome work
so much respect for all that you do dude keep it up!
Simply awesome keep it up buddy.
This is awesome.
real hardwork. (y) , this was so perfect, i would love if u upload many other video related to the same project.
Absolutely unreal. thank you for sharing
89 years old paint gun, cheap paint, ebay sand blaster::::: many mistakes like i done in the past but you learned
Yep - on a project of this scale it's inevitable that there will be aspects that could have been done better.
awesome job!
Very impressive
Really cool!!
thanks😀
Incredibly helpful and inspiring series! Getting me motivated to start my own project car! In terms of getting started on design, I am trying to hunt down some CAD for the stock VW parts (engine, front suspension, brakes, steering assembly). Would you be able to share your files or your source? Best of luck in your future racing series!
Very interisting bro
this in insanely epic
how don't you have a more views!?! this is well edited and informative! good work and keep on doing videos! :)
Thanks, great to hear. Still got quite a bit to go before I run out of footage from the build, by the time I've covered it all I'll be racing it so there should be plenty to see.
I never heard weather or not you drilled each tube with a small vent hole, so as to allow venting of each tube as you weld it. This will prevent "blow out or suck in" of the weld as weld the chassis. These holes are typically made wherever the tubes join so there is an entire venting process throughout the entire chassis during construction. If you did not then you my try it in your next construction as it will cause less grief as you weld the chassis together.
+RWES that's quite clever, I didn't think to do that here but it certainly would have helped.
ThomsenMotorsport just one thing about your mold making, maybe you could add structure to the actual mold when your making them it will help to keep the parts straight and square when you go to pull parts out of them. Also if your buck is not "mirror" perfect you will always have a problem when you pull your molds off. I actually worked with CNC made bucks while working for Nissan on there Group C P-35 Project and after they came out of the CNC machine there where hundreds of hours in polishing the buck before any molds were pulled from it! I think you are doing a fantastic job!
awesome
cool
Amazing thanks a lot !
OMFG, love this
Wow 😳 you need someone to sponsor you!
Nicely designed and executed! (Background music is excruciating, however.)
Thank you for your videos.
In the beginning, how long it it take for you to become comfortable with your welding and confident with the results?
Maybe three or four weeks of practicing every evening. I made few test sections of the chassis so I could cut them open and check the penetration and quality of the weld. I spent a lot of time watching videos of TIG welding, this helped a lot as I knew what to look for in terms of the melt puddle, heat etc. By the time I actually picked up the TIG torch I had a lot of mental imagery of what it looked like to weld properly, so I had to translate that into the muscle memory to do it properly. I did try brazing as well, but was not able to do this well, I didn't feel like I understood where the heat was in the same way as I did TIG welding.
When you welded the frame onto the tube for the panels to fit you have stressed the tubes. you would have been fine just to weld 25mm of the frame where the hole is as it is the bolt that holds the panel into place and any side impact would be transferred in the frame only where the bolts are fitted.
Very impressive project! As you said, sandblasting is a very dirty job ! Next time think about sandblasting and powdercoating by a professional. Doesn't cost a lot, nice result and you get rid of that nasty job
Does this racing organizaition require view holes to be drilled at weld points so they can make sure the welds are good? Or, did you just have to show on a test weld that you were getting proper penetration on the welds?
It's been a couple of years now so my memory is fuzzy, but I recall showing the inspector photos of the welds inside the roll hoop before closing up the ends. I also had a couple of test pieces I could show him. But no destructive testing.
this video is great
it made me inflate
kinda like the stool
at 7:08
I like your poem.
I'm astonished! Awesome videos, impressive narrative!
Did you make the frame design yourself or you've bought it?
Thanks. I designed and built the chassis myself.
I envy that you're capable of affording that expense
Hii great work
I have a doubt how did you fix the chassis and the fiber glass body together ?
ths is just awesome
Heavy af
This is fantastic, do you know the weight of the chassis? Thank you
Is that the safest place for the fuel tank? I'm sure there are rules that you're following, but I would want more separation between the driver and the tank.
I'm not aware of any Vees with more separation between driver and fuel tank. Only other place for it would be behind the main chassis bulkhead in front of the engine but there's no room there, the chassis would have to kick forward to accommodate it and the rules wouldn't allow for that. Where it is in my car it's protected from a crash by the same impact structure that protects me so I'm satisfied that it's protected from being punctured. It also vents outside the car so the only reason fuel would get into the driver compartment is if I spill some while filling it.
Is that H beam off of a vw Bug front? Wouldn't 4cm stitch welds, every 6cm's have sufficed on the panel supports? just curious... did you have to drill inspections holes to pass tech at various tracks? Gr8 work throughout!! bravo !!!
The engine is from a VW beetle too, I noticed the unique air intake blower and shroud!
Chassis looks great so far. Is that a Volkswagen motor?
Thanks and yes.
i love your car great design every thing is well planed and made love your creativity but i hate your welding
Thanks. What would you improve?
it dose look like is well penetrated just rhythm could be improved not that is bad but rest of the car is amazing are u a engineer by trade ???
I think you have worked damn hard and smart to.....My question is where can you buy an engine & transaxle for a Vee series or others series?......basically I'm not having luck locating suppliers for(engines & transaxles) any tips for companys/websites for motors and transaxles would be so much appreciated.
For Vees, parts aren't super easy to come across, I found two front H-beams straight off a car in a scrap yard in Melbourne, engine and gearbox I sourced from a wrecked Vee. Best bet from my perspective is to talk to people within the Formula Vee world and see what parts are already available, or find out what road car parts to look for in scrap yards - and what you would need to do to them to make them legal to race.
How close to the class weight limit did the car come in the end?
Amazing work! Who did you get your laser cut metal done through?
I used a company called C-Tech Laser. There are many companies though who can do that sort of cutting work.
@@thomsenmotorsport7201 okay awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.
One thing I don't understand is why you and Ludemann Engineering don't have more subscribers.
Not sure, but I appreciate the sentiment!
hello can arrange the measurements of the structure (chassis)
Hey, can you tell me what the overall cost of this build was? Thanks! Great videos by the way
Thanks. It's cost me somewhere between 25 and 30 thousand AUD to date.
Thanks! I'm thinking on making like a replica concept car
mvp
I have a kart, but I want to upgrade it. to make the chassis welding and só on is not problem, but to draw it in some software I don't have any knowledge... I didn,t understand well what you used...
Hi Roger, I used Solidworks to do everything you see, from the design to the drawings and then the renders that go in the videos. I've used a few packages with work but went with Solidworks for this project as I found it the most intuitive and covered the wide range of requirements I had. If you're in Australia Intercad could help you out, otherwise there should be a local supplier of the software.
Is the rear part of the chassis lowered a little bit to lower the centre of gravity?Or is there any particular reason?
The middle of the chassis is as low as is allowed by the rules, for CofG reasons like you say. I raised the front and rear to allow for the undertray.
When welding the mounts for the panels where you really required to weld the whole seam? To me it seems abit overkill.
btw awesome work man you are really skilled 👍
Thanks. Perhaps less could be used but it's required by the rules to be that way.
first, awesome work, very well documented, top. this is the first chassis you made? what is the kind of matal you use? when you say that you spend around 25 and 30, you are including the tools to make it? thanks and keep going 😉
Yep, first chassis for me. I used 350MPa carbon steel tube (specified by rules), produced seamless and drawn over mandrel to form its shape. That figure includes the tools, it's an all inclusive figure for anything I've spent on the car. Thanks for the feedback.
Awesome video.
What material are you using for the chassis and mountings? Have you used different material for roll hoopes and rest of the body?
I used a mild steel for all of the chassis (including roll hoop) specified by the Australian CAMS rulebook, complete with material certificates. For mountings I just used a typical mild steel plate laser cut into the correct parts.
Great video. Curious as to where you obtained the engine model from?
I can't recall exactly anymore, I remember trawling grabcad and other sites to see what was around, but I also completely redrew a new one just using what I found as a reference (with the real engine block to measure from as well).
I want to do this
i fukin love it bro!!!!
How much weaker would it be if you used a MIG welder instead of a TIG?
Honestly from the reading I've done it's pretty difficult to quantify and would depend on a lot of factors. I can't really answer that definitively I'm afraid.
ThomsenMotorsport Thanks anyway!
The limiting factor is generally the heat affected zone in the tubing itself. Welding type should be irrelevant as long as the filler used is appropriate for the tube alloy. Welding type/methodology is usually dictated by series rules if at all though.
Smaw or as in shielded metal arc welding a very exellent way of welding materials together. It beats tig and mig all the way.
What welding procedure would you recommend for 4130 steel?
Not sure, I welded only mild steel, stainless steel and aluminium, no chromolly.
Hey! Awesome video! If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the engine, chassis material, and drivetrain from? Im interested in building a racecar myself, and I cant seem to find the correct parts. And what engine is it? Would love to hear from you!
Thanks. I bought a wrecked Formula Vee which gave me the drivetrain (VW Type 1 engine and gearbox) and also some useful bits like a racing steering rack. Everything else I bought and made myself. I found suppliers around Australia for the raw materials such as chassis tubes and fibreglass. Metal plate I bought from a laser cutter in Sydney, that was great as I just had to give them the dxf files and I'd get the material perfectly cut a week or so later. Finding good suppliers is key to a project like this, if you're in Australia let me know in a reply and I can list the ones I was happy with.
Im curious about where and how you will be mounting your battery. As we do Annual Tech inspections on these cars with the SCCA we want to make sure that it is solidly mounted. A lot of people would use your transponder mount(or one very similar looking) and flip it so it is facing upwards against the forward bulkhead and put the battery in there. But what is your solution?
For me it's secured by a frame just beneath my upper legs. I think it may be visible in the first drive video I put out a few weeks ago. It's an item that isn't in my model (woops). The solution you've mentioned is what was in the Stinger I raced previously, the owner put it there for weight distribution reasons. I'd prefer to use lead ballast than the battery as a tuning tool, it would be more difficult to move the battery around in future than it would be for lead - plus hopefully safer.
Very nice. What material is the chassis made of?
A mild steel specified by the CAMS rulebook.
Great Video. Which software did you use for assembling of the components at the beginning of the videos?
I used Solidworks. It's CAD software but has a raytracing renderer, which can be coupled with animation tools to produce these parts for the videos.
What kind of welder/welding gun is that at 8:26?
some circuits like a Rally Sport require certified welding facilities to put in certain portions of the frame, was that not an issue for this project? could you explain a bit more about the FEA, I know you can't do collisions in SolidWorks but I'm curious to know how you approached it using Excel?
+P R The rules specify the material, some of the design constraints and fabrication methods, as long as those are followed it's fine. You need to get the chassis certified if you deviate from those to ensure it's safe.
I used 6dof frame stiffness elements to build a stiffness matrix in excel. I had a sheet containing all the nodes (xyz coordinates) and another that contained the elements (id number of start /end node, element properties). The stiffness matrix drew from these. In that way I was able to make changes without too much issue. I set constrains and loads to calculate the displacement matrix and went from there. For a collision I applied an appropriate load where the contact occurred, for instance on top of the roll hoop for a roll over.
Thanks, to me a project like this is a way to test someone's engineering, in my case I'm an MET,and fab skills, as a welder I understand the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Two questions:
What is the assembly rig that u have attached the chasis to that can rotate?
What material are you guys using for the frame of car? Is that tubing readily available?
New to this scene. Thx
The assembly rig is one which we made for the project from 50x50x2 box section steel. Very helpful I must say. The material I used was 350MPa mild steel, cold drawn over mandrel seamless tubing (DOM CDS I think are the acronyms - been a few years now!)
@@thomsenmotorsport7201 Thx!