As the Chassis manager for an FSAE team this year I really appreciate these videos, the amount of work you've put into this so far is unbelievable, keep it up! Looking forward to seeing your build progress man
Hey thanks a lot, getting feedback like that helps keep the motivation up to put those hours in. It's been a massive undertaking but it's getting pretty close to completion.
Thanks, great to hear. The car has done three rounds so far, two have been uploaded on this channel and the third will go up this week so luckily you won't need to wait to see it race.
this is insane. the ammount of detail and forethought is overwhelming. the video editing so well done and extremely informative. promptly watching the rest of the series in hopes to better educate myself before i start to make my own. thank you!
Great job on this! One thing though, I’m not sure if it is because of the regulations, but if you can I would recommend moving the fuel tank as far from the driver and engine as possible, because if you do get into an accident and the fuel tanks gets punctured, first, you have hot fuel on you and if it sprays onto the engine it will cause the car to catch on fire or worse, your clothing/body will catch fire; also if your car is hard to get in and out of, you could be trapped in a burning vehicle if the fuel tank ruptures.
Once again, nice work! I'm glad to hear it took you about 4 months, because that's the same time it took me and I just thought I was terribly slow (:-) .
Certainly felt slow! It's great early on when the progress is very visible but it starts to drag on when it's just little brackets and things being welded on.
Honestly I'm astonished, I guess it helps having some of the facilities to be able to do this type of work, but for me as someone who'd like to try something like this, i'm curious, where did you get the drivetrain from and where can you find the necessary materials and manufacturing tools do do this kind of work?
+edwardfeast my father owns some of the tools and the larger workshop, it certainly helped a lot having access to those. The materials I had to source from various suppliers, the chassis material was particularly difficult to find, it's a specific grade made in a certain way and it wasn't that common. If you do your own project I'd be careful not to underestimate how much time procurement takes. I got the drivetrain from a Formula Vee that had been wrecked in an accident. As far as the tools go, most things my father didn't have I bought off eBay, including the welder.
Fantastic series! I was watching your bit on spray painting the car, There is a little trick method of using and electrical current to create charge on the car which would attract the paint molecules to the frame. Not sure of the metal of the frame is capable of producing the static attraction for this to work, but it would've allowed you to use less paint and get a better and more even coverage. Just a little thing I saw on youtube about mass manufactured cars and being efficient on painting them.
Thanks, great to hear. Still got quite a bit to go before I run out of footage from the build, by the time I've covered it all I'll be racing it so there should be plenty to see.
All the precision you used to build this chassis is really going to pay off when you set the car up at the track. Should be fairly easy to refine the handling since you're starting with such a well designed and built, stiff chassis. Nothing worse than getting all the corners and cross weight where you need it and have it change while racing due to excessive flex in the wrong areas of your chassis. First class work! Cheers
Incredibly helpful and inspiring series! Getting me motivated to start my own project car! In terms of getting started on design, I am trying to hunt down some CAD for the stock VW parts (engine, front suspension, brakes, steering assembly). Would you be able to share your files or your source? Best of luck in your future racing series!
Does this racing organizaition require view holes to be drilled at weld points so they can make sure the welds are good? Or, did you just have to show on a test weld that you were getting proper penetration on the welds?
It's been a couple of years now so my memory is fuzzy, but I recall showing the inspector photos of the welds inside the roll hoop before closing up the ends. I also had a couple of test pieces I could show him. But no destructive testing.
I never heard weather or not you drilled each tube with a small vent hole, so as to allow venting of each tube as you weld it. This will prevent "blow out or suck in" of the weld as weld the chassis. These holes are typically made wherever the tubes join so there is an entire venting process throughout the entire chassis during construction. If you did not then you my try it in your next construction as it will cause less grief as you weld the chassis together.
ThomsenMotorsport just one thing about your mold making, maybe you could add structure to the actual mold when your making them it will help to keep the parts straight and square when you go to pull parts out of them. Also if your buck is not "mirror" perfect you will always have a problem when you pull your molds off. I actually worked with CNC made bucks while working for Nissan on there Group C P-35 Project and after they came out of the CNC machine there where hundreds of hours in polishing the buck before any molds were pulled from it! I think you are doing a fantastic job!
Maybe three or four weeks of practicing every evening. I made few test sections of the chassis so I could cut them open and check the penetration and quality of the weld. I spent a lot of time watching videos of TIG welding, this helped a lot as I knew what to look for in terms of the melt puddle, heat etc. By the time I actually picked up the TIG torch I had a lot of mental imagery of what it looked like to weld properly, so I had to translate that into the muscle memory to do it properly. I did try brazing as well, but was not able to do this well, I didn't feel like I understood where the heat was in the same way as I did TIG welding.
When you welded the frame onto the tube for the panels to fit you have stressed the tubes. you would have been fine just to weld 25mm of the frame where the hole is as it is the bolt that holds the panel into place and any side impact would be transferred in the frame only where the bolts are fitted.
Is that H beam off of a vw Bug front? Wouldn't 4cm stitch welds, every 6cm's have sufficed on the panel supports? just curious... did you have to drill inspections holes to pass tech at various tracks? Gr8 work throughout!! bravo !!!
Is that the safest place for the fuel tank? I'm sure there are rules that you're following, but I would want more separation between the driver and the tank.
I'm not aware of any Vees with more separation between driver and fuel tank. Only other place for it would be behind the main chassis bulkhead in front of the engine but there's no room there, the chassis would have to kick forward to accommodate it and the rules wouldn't allow for that. Where it is in my car it's protected from a crash by the same impact structure that protects me so I'm satisfied that it's protected from being punctured. It also vents outside the car so the only reason fuel would get into the driver compartment is if I spill some while filling it.
I think you have worked damn hard and smart to.....My question is where can you buy an engine & transaxle for a Vee series or others series?......basically I'm not having luck locating suppliers for(engines & transaxles) any tips for companys/websites for motors and transaxles would be so much appreciated.
For Vees, parts aren't super easy to come across, I found two front H-beams straight off a car in a scrap yard in Melbourne, engine and gearbox I sourced from a wrecked Vee. Best bet from my perspective is to talk to people within the Formula Vee world and see what parts are already available, or find out what road car parts to look for in scrap yards - and what you would need to do to them to make them legal to race.
I used a mild steel for all of the chassis (including roll hoop) specified by the Australian CAMS rulebook, complete with material certificates. For mountings I just used a typical mild steel plate laser cut into the correct parts.
I can't recall exactly anymore, I remember trawling grabcad and other sites to see what was around, but I also completely redrew a new one just using what I found as a reference (with the real engine block to measure from as well).
Very impressive project! As you said, sandblasting is a very dirty job ! Next time think about sandblasting and powdercoating by a professional. Doesn't cost a lot, nice result and you get rid of that nasty job
first, awesome work, very well documented, top. this is the first chassis you made? what is the kind of matal you use? when you say that you spend around 25 and 30, you are including the tools to make it? thanks and keep going 😉
Yep, first chassis for me. I used 350MPa carbon steel tube (specified by rules), produced seamless and drawn over mandrel to form its shape. That figure includes the tools, it's an all inclusive figure for anything I've spent on the car. Thanks for the feedback.
Im curious about where and how you will be mounting your battery. As we do Annual Tech inspections on these cars with the SCCA we want to make sure that it is solidly mounted. A lot of people would use your transponder mount(or one very similar looking) and flip it so it is facing upwards against the forward bulkhead and put the battery in there. But what is your solution?
For me it's secured by a frame just beneath my upper legs. I think it may be visible in the first drive video I put out a few weeks ago. It's an item that isn't in my model (woops). The solution you've mentioned is what was in the Stinger I raced previously, the owner put it there for weight distribution reasons. I'd prefer to use lead ballast than the battery as a tuning tool, it would be more difficult to move the battery around in future than it would be for lead - plus hopefully safer.
I have a kart, but I want to upgrade it. to make the chassis welding and só on is not problem, but to draw it in some software I don't have any knowledge... I didn,t understand well what you used...
Hi Roger, I used Solidworks to do everything you see, from the design to the drawings and then the renders that go in the videos. I've used a few packages with work but went with Solidworks for this project as I found it the most intuitive and covered the wide range of requirements I had. If you're in Australia Intercad could help you out, otherwise there should be a local supplier of the software.
awesome work mate , i have done my car here in lebanon , the work was not as clean as this i should say , but it turned out impressive as well. whats the total weight you have
+ThomsenMotorsport ur kdg!! mine weights exactly the same!! just recently done , still have a small issue with the fuel pump and it ll be pumpin 190hp again
some circuits like a Rally Sport require certified welding facilities to put in certain portions of the frame, was that not an issue for this project? could you explain a bit more about the FEA, I know you can't do collisions in SolidWorks but I'm curious to know how you approached it using Excel?
+P R The rules specify the material, some of the design constraints and fabrication methods, as long as those are followed it's fine. You need to get the chassis certified if you deviate from those to ensure it's safe. I used 6dof frame stiffness elements to build a stiffness matrix in excel. I had a sheet containing all the nodes (xyz coordinates) and another that contained the elements (id number of start /end node, element properties). The stiffness matrix drew from these. In that way I was able to make changes without too much issue. I set constrains and loads to calculate the displacement matrix and went from there. For a collision I applied an appropriate load where the contact occurred, for instance on top of the roll hoop for a roll over.
Thanks, to me a project like this is a way to test someone's engineering, in my case I'm an MET,and fab skills, as a welder I understand the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Two questions: What is the assembly rig that u have attached the chasis to that can rotate? What material are you guys using for the frame of car? Is that tubing readily available? New to this scene. Thx
The assembly rig is one which we made for the project from 50x50x2 box section steel. Very helpful I must say. The material I used was 350MPa mild steel, cold drawn over mandrel seamless tubing (DOM CDS I think are the acronyms - been a few years now!)
Hey! Awesome video! If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the engine, chassis material, and drivetrain from? Im interested in building a racecar myself, and I cant seem to find the correct parts. And what engine is it? Would love to hear from you!
Thanks. I bought a wrecked Formula Vee which gave me the drivetrain (VW Type 1 engine and gearbox) and also some useful bits like a racing steering rack. Everything else I bought and made myself. I found suppliers around Australia for the raw materials such as chassis tubes and fibreglass. Metal plate I bought from a laser cutter in Sydney, that was great as I just had to give them the dxf files and I'd get the material perfectly cut a week or so later. Finding good suppliers is key to a project like this, if you're in Australia let me know in a reply and I can list the ones I was happy with.
Total expenditure was about $25k AUD but I would have spent closer to $35k AUD when adding the cost of other things which I wouldn't have bought otherwise, like the trailer and tow car.
ThomsenMotorsport sounds cool. I'm just a kiwi kid but when I get older I really wanna try get into racing!! I'm real in F1 ATM and I have a full racing sim setup at home which is good fun to play on! Stay safe! - Micah
As the Chassis manager for an FSAE team this year I really appreciate these videos, the amount of work you've put into this so far is unbelievable, keep it up! Looking forward to seeing your build progress man
Hey thanks a lot, getting feedback like that helps keep the motivation up to put those hours in. It's been a massive undertaking but it's getting pretty close to completion.
Impressive work, very inspirational ! welldone
insanely amazing and inspiring
I love your choice of music it makes watching and listening to these already great videos so much more entertaining.
Bro, I bet your dad is an awesome mentor and problem solver. love it so far
I'm amazed! I'm a Formula Ford race fan. The videos and commentary are great entertainment. Can't wait to get to the end to see you race it!
Thanks, great to hear. The car has done three rounds so far, two have been uploaded on this channel and the third will go up this week so luckily you won't need to wait to see it race.
this is insane. the ammount of detail and forethought is overwhelming. the video editing so well done and extremely informative. promptly watching the rest of the series in hopes to better educate myself before i start to make my own. thank you!
Wow, 4 months. Thats a short time considered the complexity of making a car frame. Well done!
Thanks. Didn't feel short!
Awesome videos, really enjoy this. Keep em coming!
beautiful and inspirational work.
you and your father make a very good team
Hi simon im from south africa.Im also a tig welder with a big interest in building racecar chassis.Great vids!!!
Looking good. Really like watching it all come together. Thanks for sharing the build with us.
+David Freer Glad you are enjoying it!
+David Freer Glad you are enjoying it!
Great job on this! One thing though, I’m not sure if it is because of the regulations, but if you can I would recommend moving the fuel tank as far from the driver and engine as possible, because if you do get into an accident and the fuel tanks gets punctured, first, you have hot fuel on you and if it sprays onto the engine it will cause the car to catch on fire or worse, your clothing/body will catch fire; also if your car is hard to get in and out of, you could be trapped in a burning vehicle if the fuel tank ruptures.
4 months is very good! That is a lot of work. Very cool!
I have just found your channel. Very well done. My dad and I recently restored a 1991 VW Bug, and we did all by ourselves. Keep up the good work
Loving watching this build. Inspirational!
Awesome videos so far.
Really clean and fine craftsmanship
Awesome!!,, it takes me back to my FSAE days.
Once again, nice work! I'm glad to hear it took you about 4 months, because that's the same time it took me and I just thought I was terribly slow (:-) .
Certainly felt slow! It's great early on when the progress is very visible but it starts to drag on when it's just little brackets and things being welded on.
7 years later and this vid is still providing value. Nice.
I must say though it looks heavy as. Whats the end weight?
Amazing. Please keep posting.
Honestly I'm astonished, I guess it helps having some of the facilities to be able to do this type of work, but for me as someone who'd like to try something like this, i'm curious, where did you get the drivetrain from and where can you find the necessary materials and manufacturing tools do do this kind of work?
+edwardfeast my father owns some of the tools and the larger workshop, it certainly helped a lot having access to those. The materials I had to source from various suppliers, the chassis material was particularly difficult to find, it's a specific grade made in a certain way and it wasn't that common. If you do your own project I'd be careful not to underestimate how much time procurement takes. I got the drivetrain from a Formula Vee that had been wrecked in an accident. As far as the tools go, most things my father didn't have I bought off eBay, including the welder.
Fantastic series! I was watching your bit on spray painting the car, There is a little trick method of using and electrical current to create charge on the car which would attract the paint molecules to the frame. Not sure of the metal of the frame is capable of producing the static attraction for this to work, but it would've allowed you to use less paint and get a better and more even coverage. Just a little thing I saw on youtube about mass manufactured cars and being efficient on painting them.
Dan, are you referring to powder coating?
Subscribed. These videos are amazing. Loved the work you did and how you beautifully presented it.
Cool - glad to hear it!
my god you're amazing. really admire your work
so much respect for all that you do dude keep it up!
Amazing work so far!
Looks great!
keep it up.very well i was able to build my go-kart and could win the local race.thanks
so much work this is crazy but love it, great stuff
Awesome job!
unbelievable beautiful work... WOOW!!! so impressed, so congratulations!!!
how don't you have a more views!?! this is well edited and informative! good work and keep on doing videos! :)
Thanks, great to hear. Still got quite a bit to go before I run out of footage from the build, by the time I've covered it all I'll be racing it so there should be plenty to see.
Simply awesome keep it up buddy.
real hardwork. (y) , this was so perfect, i would love if u upload many other video related to the same project.
All the precision you used to build this chassis is really going to pay off when you set the car up at the track. Should be fairly easy to refine the handling since you're starting with such a well designed and built, stiff chassis. Nothing worse than getting all the corners and cross weight where you need it and have it change while racing due to excessive flex in the wrong areas of your chassis. First class work! Cheers
Thanks. It was the part of the car I was most happy with in the end.
Incredibly helpful and inspiring series! Getting me motivated to start my own project car! In terms of getting started on design, I am trying to hunt down some CAD for the stock VW parts (engine, front suspension, brakes, steering assembly). Would you be able to share your files or your source? Best of luck in your future racing series!
Why this man has no millions subscribers???
Awesome work
Absolutely unreal. thank you for sharing
awesome job!
This is awesome.
Very interisting bro
Very useful video
Does this racing organizaition require view holes to be drilled at weld points so they can make sure the welds are good? Or, did you just have to show on a test weld that you were getting proper penetration on the welds?
It's been a couple of years now so my memory is fuzzy, but I recall showing the inspector photos of the welds inside the roll hoop before closing up the ends. I also had a couple of test pieces I could show him. But no destructive testing.
Very impressive
Really cool!!
Hii great work
I have a doubt how did you fix the chassis and the fiber glass body together ?
i realise this video is almost a year old now, but i really hope that fridge in your garage has some stickers on it by now
+Dylan H haha, that's my father's fridge, ill have to tell him.
This is fantastic, do you know the weight of the chassis? Thank you
I never heard weather or not you drilled each tube with a small vent hole, so as to allow venting of each tube as you weld it. This will prevent "blow out or suck in" of the weld as weld the chassis. These holes are typically made wherever the tubes join so there is an entire venting process throughout the entire chassis during construction. If you did not then you my try it in your next construction as it will cause less grief as you weld the chassis together.
+RWES that's quite clever, I didn't think to do that here but it certainly would have helped.
ThomsenMotorsport just one thing about your mold making, maybe you could add structure to the actual mold when your making them it will help to keep the parts straight and square when you go to pull parts out of them. Also if your buck is not "mirror" perfect you will always have a problem when you pull your molds off. I actually worked with CNC made bucks while working for Nissan on there Group C P-35 Project and after they came out of the CNC machine there where hundreds of hours in polishing the buck before any molds were pulled from it! I think you are doing a fantastic job!
Awesome
this in insanely epic
Thank you for your videos.
In the beginning, how long it it take for you to become comfortable with your welding and confident with the results?
Maybe three or four weeks of practicing every evening. I made few test sections of the chassis so I could cut them open and check the penetration and quality of the weld. I spent a lot of time watching videos of TIG welding, this helped a lot as I knew what to look for in terms of the melt puddle, heat etc. By the time I actually picked up the TIG torch I had a lot of mental imagery of what it looked like to weld properly, so I had to translate that into the muscle memory to do it properly. I did try brazing as well, but was not able to do this well, I didn't feel like I understood where the heat was in the same way as I did TIG welding.
Wow 😳 you need someone to sponsor you!
When you welded the frame onto the tube for the panels to fit you have stressed the tubes. you would have been fine just to weld 25mm of the frame where the hole is as it is the bolt that holds the panel into place and any side impact would be transferred in the frame only where the bolts are fitted.
Amazing
I'm astonished! Awesome videos, impressive narrative!
Did you make the frame design yourself or you've bought it?
Thanks. I designed and built the chassis myself.
awesome
OMFG, love this
Amazing thanks a lot !
What kind of welder/welding gun is that at 8:26?
How close to the class weight limit did the car come in the end?
89 years old paint gun, cheap paint, ebay sand blaster::::: many mistakes like i done in the past but you learned
Yep - on a project of this scale it's inevitable that there will be aspects that could have been done better.
Is that H beam off of a vw Bug front? Wouldn't 4cm stitch welds, every 6cm's have sufficed on the panel supports? just curious... did you have to drill inspections holes to pass tech at various tracks? Gr8 work throughout!! bravo !!!
The engine is from a VW beetle too, I noticed the unique air intake blower and shroud!
thanks😀
Is that the safest place for the fuel tank? I'm sure there are rules that you're following, but I would want more separation between the driver and the tank.
I'm not aware of any Vees with more separation between driver and fuel tank. Only other place for it would be behind the main chassis bulkhead in front of the engine but there's no room there, the chassis would have to kick forward to accommodate it and the rules wouldn't allow for that. Where it is in my car it's protected from a crash by the same impact structure that protects me so I'm satisfied that it's protected from being punctured. It also vents outside the car so the only reason fuel would get into the driver compartment is if I spill some while filling it.
I think you have worked damn hard and smart to.....My question is where can you buy an engine & transaxle for a Vee series or others series?......basically I'm not having luck locating suppliers for(engines & transaxles) any tips for companys/websites for motors and transaxles would be so much appreciated.
For Vees, parts aren't super easy to come across, I found two front H-beams straight off a car in a scrap yard in Melbourne, engine and gearbox I sourced from a wrecked Vee. Best bet from my perspective is to talk to people within the Formula Vee world and see what parts are already available, or find out what road car parts to look for in scrap yards - and what you would need to do to them to make them legal to race.
Nicely designed and executed! (Background music is excruciating, however.)
Chassis looks great so far. Is that a Volkswagen motor?
Thanks and yes.
this video is great
it made me inflate
kinda like the stool
at 7:08
I like your poem.
Awesome video.
What material are you using for the chassis and mountings? Have you used different material for roll hoopes and rest of the body?
I used a mild steel for all of the chassis (including roll hoop) specified by the Australian CAMS rulebook, complete with material certificates. For mountings I just used a typical mild steel plate laser cut into the correct parts.
Great video. Curious as to where you obtained the engine model from?
I can't recall exactly anymore, I remember trawling grabcad and other sites to see what was around, but I also completely redrew a new one just using what I found as a reference (with the real engine block to measure from as well).
Very impressive project! As you said, sandblasting is a very dirty job ! Next time think about sandblasting and powdercoating by a professional. Doesn't cost a lot, nice result and you get rid of that nasty job
Amazing work! Who did you get your laser cut metal done through?
I used a company called C-Tech Laser. There are many companies though who can do that sort of cutting work.
@@thomsenmotorsport7201 okay awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.
cool
Very nice. What material is the chassis made of?
A mild steel specified by the CAMS rulebook.
hello can arrange the measurements of the structure (chassis)
first, awesome work, very well documented, top. this is the first chassis you made? what is the kind of matal you use? when you say that you spend around 25 and 30, you are including the tools to make it? thanks and keep going 😉
Yep, first chassis for me. I used 350MPa carbon steel tube (specified by rules), produced seamless and drawn over mandrel to form its shape. That figure includes the tools, it's an all inclusive figure for anything I've spent on the car. Thanks for the feedback.
Is the rear part of the chassis lowered a little bit to lower the centre of gravity?Or is there any particular reason?
The middle of the chassis is as low as is allowed by the rules, for CofG reasons like you say. I raised the front and rear to allow for the undertray.
Im curious about where and how you will be mounting your battery. As we do Annual Tech inspections on these cars with the SCCA we want to make sure that it is solidly mounted. A lot of people would use your transponder mount(or one very similar looking) and flip it so it is facing upwards against the forward bulkhead and put the battery in there. But what is your solution?
For me it's secured by a frame just beneath my upper legs. I think it may be visible in the first drive video I put out a few weeks ago. It's an item that isn't in my model (woops). The solution you've mentioned is what was in the Stinger I raced previously, the owner put it there for weight distribution reasons. I'd prefer to use lead ballast than the battery as a tuning tool, it would be more difficult to move the battery around in future than it would be for lead - plus hopefully safer.
I have a kart, but I want to upgrade it. to make the chassis welding and só on is not problem, but to draw it in some software I don't have any knowledge... I didn,t understand well what you used...
Hi Roger, I used Solidworks to do everything you see, from the design to the drawings and then the renders that go in the videos. I've used a few packages with work but went with Solidworks for this project as I found it the most intuitive and covered the wide range of requirements I had. If you're in Australia Intercad could help you out, otherwise there should be a local supplier of the software.
ths is just awesome
What welding procedure would you recommend for 4130 steel?
Not sure, I welded only mild steel, stainless steel and aluminium, no chromolly.
awesome work mate , i have done my car here in lebanon , the work was not as clean as this i should say , but it turned out impressive as well. whats the total weight you have
Nice one. My car weighs about 420kg without driver or ballast. In race trim, with me and some lead on board, it weighs 505kg.
+ThomsenMotorsport ur kdg!! mine weights exactly the same!! just recently done , still have a small issue with the fuel pump and it ll be pumpin 190hp again
+ThomsenMotorsport im really really amazed by ur great work. keep it up :)
Well that's a big old power bump from where I am, must be a blast in something that weighs so little.
+ThomsenMotorsport its amazing. how much ur doin? ive put a 2005 zx10r and done a bit of tuning for it
some circuits like a Rally Sport require certified welding facilities to put in certain portions of the frame, was that not an issue for this project? could you explain a bit more about the FEA, I know you can't do collisions in SolidWorks but I'm curious to know how you approached it using Excel?
+P R The rules specify the material, some of the design constraints and fabrication methods, as long as those are followed it's fine. You need to get the chassis certified if you deviate from those to ensure it's safe.
I used 6dof frame stiffness elements to build a stiffness matrix in excel. I had a sheet containing all the nodes (xyz coordinates) and another that contained the elements (id number of start /end node, element properties). The stiffness matrix drew from these. In that way I was able to make changes without too much issue. I set constrains and loads to calculate the displacement matrix and went from there. For a collision I applied an appropriate load where the contact occurred, for instance on top of the roll hoop for a roll over.
Thanks, to me a project like this is a way to test someone's engineering, in my case I'm an MET,and fab skills, as a welder I understand the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Two questions:
What is the assembly rig that u have attached the chasis to that can rotate?
What material are you guys using for the frame of car? Is that tubing readily available?
New to this scene. Thx
The assembly rig is one which we made for the project from 50x50x2 box section steel. Very helpful I must say. The material I used was 350MPa mild steel, cold drawn over mandrel seamless tubing (DOM CDS I think are the acronyms - been a few years now!)
@@thomsenmotorsport7201 Thx!
Hey! Awesome video! If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the engine, chassis material, and drivetrain from? Im interested in building a racecar myself, and I cant seem to find the correct parts. And what engine is it? Would love to hear from you!
Thanks. I bought a wrecked Formula Vee which gave me the drivetrain (VW Type 1 engine and gearbox) and also some useful bits like a racing steering rack. Everything else I bought and made myself. I found suppliers around Australia for the raw materials such as chassis tubes and fibreglass. Metal plate I bought from a laser cutter in Sydney, that was great as I just had to give them the dxf files and I'd get the material perfectly cut a week or so later. Finding good suppliers is key to a project like this, if you're in Australia let me know in a reply and I can list the ones I was happy with.
what engine is that
It's from a Volkswagen Beetle i guess
I want to do this
what software did u use?
where did you bring the engine
Great Video. Which software did you use for assembling of the components at the beginning of the videos?
I used Solidworks. It's CAD software but has a raytracing renderer, which can be coupled with animation tools to produce these parts for the videos.
i love your car great design every thing is well planed and made love your creativity but i hate your welding
Thanks. What would you improve?
it dose look like is well penetrated just rhythm could be improved not that is bad but rest of the car is amazing are u a engineer by trade ???
can you switch from vw to Subi engine later on?
No beacuse regulations won't allow that
@@Kasmuller Well hopefully by the time your wrecking / junk yards are filled with Subi's, they'll create a new class
When welding the mounts for the panels where you really required to weld the whole seam? To me it seems abit overkill.
btw awesome work man you are really skilled 👍
Thanks. Perhaps less could be used but it's required by the rules to be that way.
I envy that you're capable of affording that expense
Hey. This is absolutely awesome!! Just wondering do you know around about how much the whole project costed to make?? The materials I mean.
Total expenditure was about $25k AUD but I would have spent closer to $35k AUD when adding the cost of other things which I wouldn't have bought otherwise, like the trailer and tow car.
ThomsenMotorsport sounds cool. I'm just a kiwi kid but when I get older I really wanna try get into racing!! I'm real in F1 ATM and I have a full racing sim setup at home which is good fun to play on! Stay safe! - Micah