Soldering Bullet Connectors
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- Опубликовано: 12 мар 2019
- Let's learn how to solder a typical RC bullet pin connector including wire resizing and heat shrink application.
RC Soldering Tinning Video:
• How To Tin Wires Befor...
TS100 Soldering Iron Review:
• TS100 Soldering Iron U...
Understanding RC Connectors:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-li...
RC Soldering Equipment Overview:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-so... 
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Want to learn more about the hobby of RC helicopters? Please visit my website:
www.rchelicopterfun.com
At last ...
somebody who knows what they're doing.
Excellent video. Straight to the point and easy to follow, thank you.
Very nicely explained and illustrated. Thank you for taking the time to show us!
Excellent video, explanation, and demonstrations! Perfect!
Great video, very nicely done. Thank you for sharing your technique.
Thanks John. Good demo. In the UK
Thanks John. That should help me. By the way, I saw your tip calibration video, so you can disregard that part of my question. I appreciate your patience with my questions!
Thank you so much! Chose to go with these over the xt150 because I realized those were overkill. Never worked with these, but your vid helped a lot! Thank you!
Great to hear 🙂
Nice technique and very helpful. I am using them for amateur radio antennas.
Wonderful Explanation! Thanks a lot
Glad it was helpful.
Appreciate this tutorial. I had to do some repairs on G3PO bullets and in over a decade, I've surprisingly never had to solder a bullet!
As many have said, I would encourage teaching people to remove flux, because at the scale I work it really does corrode over time if you don't.
In the 30+ years I've been soldering professionally as a tech, I have yet to see good quality rosin flux cause corrosion, even decades later in some cases. I've only used Kester rosin core solder and it has been proven in the field not to enter into reaction and cause corrosion. Guess that is why it's the only brand I'll ever use. If you feel you need to spend extra time to remove it however or use more corrosive flux, please do so.
good video & thanks for the great information. i always clean off the flux completely after soldering to prevent corrosion of the joints.
👍🙂
thank you very much, very good video!
very neat and best sir. Regards from Malaysia.
excellent detailed video, thanks!
Glad it was helpful
VERY HELPFUL THANK YOU
Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks 😊 for your time and hard work dedication you have
My pleasure
Thanks for sharing!!
Really pro John, Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Very helpful video for news
Wasn't positive hot to solder my 5.5 bullets , but now I am, thanks
Very good work
Thank you
thank you very helpful for me
Happy to help 🙂
I did it!! Thanks
👍
I would strongly recommend a set of "helping hands" adjustable grips; it would make the whole process go much faster, and you don't have to hold the wire which gets hot very quickly as the copper conducts heat away from the joint.
I do have helping hands and they work well for holding smaller connectors and wires, but not the big stuff shown in this video. Have you ever tired to hold heavy, large gauge wire and/or connectors in those tiny helping hand clips - they are simply not strong enough to hold the connector still or secure. That is why I use my drill press vice on larger connectors/bullet - they don't budge.
Silicone insulation on this high flex wire is also a great heat insulator. I barely feel the heat when soldering, but I've been soldering for years so I'm used to it. I would rather hold the wire if I found it too hot with surgical forceps/similar so I can still have fine movement control of the wire which is another thing lost with helping hands. If you find helping hands useful on large wire too - then use them. We all use what works best for our individual application and experience.
John, awesome videos on soldering. Now, for the bullet connectors you used the TS100, it is great because its tip fits the small part between the connector and the wire. How about if I do not have the TS100 but the Weller gun? the gun tip is much bigger, how do I apply the tip to the wire without burning the slicone of the wire? Do I hold ot against the connector? Not sure. Thanks for some feedback and tips.
Hi Armin, The process with a Weller soldering gun tip is exactly the same. The tip on the gun is actually not much larger then the D24 tip I was using on the iron. The gun tips are beveled about a 45 degree angle at the tip so you could still be touching the wire and the connector to pump heat into both. As the solder melts and you are able to push the wire into the end of the bullet pin, you would just have to move the gun tip back a bit to allow the wire to side all the way in, while still keeping the tip on the rim of the bullet to keep pumping heat into it.
When soldering wire into bullet end could it be possible when making the wire end that if you flatten the end of wire that it would rest flat on inside to make a better contact because its flat instead of having partial of the end of wire touching. Just a thought.
Could I use a small torch like a Versatorch (Dremel) instead of the soldering wire?
Where can I buy these type of connectors?
Thank u soo much for the video. I’m building My first eskate and have to change the male 4mm to 5.5mm. No idea what I’m doin😅. 🙏🙏💯😎🤙
Those soldering irons are great, from the reviews i've seen, yet to own one myself, one day.... btw, its best to use 91% or better isopropyl alchol to clean any left over flux residue, it can become quite acidic over time and become harmful to the soldering conection.
Quick question. It seems that there are two types of bullet connectors, ones that use what looks like lighter weight metal to make the "spring" connection (the three bullets seen at "0:17") and ones that look like the body is split into quarters (the one seen pulled apart at "0:37") and they provide friction. Are they the same in amperage ratings? Do they have different names?
I actually cover this very question in detail on my RC connectors page under the bullet connector section:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-battery-connector.html
The quick answer however is the split bullets are "generally" larger and have the higher current rating over the sprung sleeve type.
Great video. Do you have a link to the connectors you used?
Amazon has many types & sizes: amzn.to/336J6rP
why do some bullet connectors have little holes on the sides? i see the ones your using don't. I've been looking online trying to order some but mostly see ones with holes or like half a cup. does it matter if the do have holes? or are they lower quality?
Holes are common and nothing wrong with them. They prevent trapped air pockets from forming. This allows the solder to reach deep inside the recess if there is no air pocket in there, plus has the potential to provide a more solid solder connection. The cups are fine too, even better IMO. They are both easier to solder and you can visually see the solder connection to confirm good penetration.
What temperature were you using in the bullet connector soldering?
@3:27 (400C)
Thanks for all the useful information. I bought some xt150 connectors to use between my motorcycle stator and rectifier. The stator produces 80V at 6.000rpm . You think these connectors will hold up? Thanks!
No idea as I would need to know the current load, not voltage to even make guess.
@@Rchelicopterfun the stator has a 360 W output and the main fuse is 30 amps.
Hope this helps
30A. You just answered your own question; a 150A rated connector is overkill.
Good Vid. Cause I bought a few motors that didnt come with connectors !
How many watt solder are u using ?
I tried this but with plugs and 12 g wire…. A few tiny strands of the wire got stuck outside of the bullets on 2/3 of them.
This happened because the wire frayed when I was tinning it, and became more frayed when I inserted it into the bullet.
Am I screwed? Or can I run it as is? It has plenty of solder inside the bullet (overflowing a bit honestly), and the connections are strong.
How would I go about fixing rhe frayed wire? Should I need to?
The issue with frayed wires on the outside of a bullet pin is they are sharp and can easily poke through the heat shrink insulation (or whatever insulation you use), and then become a shorting hazard. With only 2 or 3 stands sticking out, I would just grind/file them down if you know the solder connection is good.
Thank you.Helps a lot. Using for ebike motor-controller fase connector!. Anybody knows max current for these connectors? More specifically average quality gold plated 4mm.
I cover current ratings on bullet connectors from 2mm to 8mm on my RC connector page (bullet connectors are about 2/3 down the page): www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-connector.html
Super helpful. I'm very mechanically inclined and have been soldering on my RCs for a while now, but never took the time to watch any instructional videos. I was looking for some tips on tackling the bullet connectors which can be a pain.
Watching your videos (tinning one too) I found just that plus lots of other little helpful hints.
I'm not sure what the thumb- Downs on this video are for.. PEARLS AMONG SWINE.
Thank you.
Thanks for kind comments. Glad you found some of the info helpful.
Are u using 3.5 mm bullets or 4 mm. How do u know which to use. Or does it matter. Thanks
Depends on the current the connector will be handling. I talk about bullet size in relation to current handling ability on my RC connector page under the bullet connector heading: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-battery-connector.html
my question is if I put a bigger bigger bullet connector on my motor and ESC will it pull more current to each other with my 12 gage wire
Current is limited by the smallest conductor in the system just the same way water flow is limited by the smallest hose or valve. So putting a larger than required bullet on a 12 AWG wire will still only allow the maximum current that the wiring can flow.
What is the name of the rubber like structure that covers around the bullet connector. Pls reply
You mean the heat shrink tube?
@@Rchelicopterfun yes yes. Thank u very much.
I’m new to the electric rc world and I have a question which might seem stupid to most, but have to ask. My brushless motor and esc are rated correctly, but he make bullets on the brushless motor are too big for the esc female connectors. The motor came with an extra set of female connectors. Should I just clip the connectors I have on the esc, should I de solder them, or should I change the bullets on the brushless motor? I know I’m probably mind effing this thing, but it’s my first electric balsa build fixed wing rc plane and I’m trying to get everything as efficient as possible.
Also, wore gauges are identical for motor and esc, just the connectors are too big coming from motor
That is pretty common. Since your motor came with the correct size female bullets to use with the male bullets on the motor wires, I would remove the female bullets on your ESC (de-solder them) and then solder on the correct size female ones that came with your motor.
You could also cut them off the ESC, but then more work & solder is involved. You would have to strip each of the 3 wires & re-tin each one before soldering them. If you just de-solder them out of the bullets, they are already properly tinned and you just have to resolder them into the correct size bullets.
John Salt thank you so much for not only such a quick response, but also putting my friggen mind at ease. I know this stuff, I just have to run it by people who know more than I do for clarity. That’s what I figured since the motor came with the female bullets as well, and the fact that the esc and motor are completely compatible . Plus having the same gauge wire, it all makes sense. But like I was explaining, I had a bit off a learning curve after flying nitro years ago, taking a 20+ year hiatus from flying, and just getting back into it. I have ran 1 or 2 foamies nose down into the ground because of esc failure, or I should say esc and bec failure. I’m just being extra careful since this balsa build took me a couple of months to build. Once again, thank you for your quick response and solid answer!
You are more than welcome & glad I could help a bit. BTW, all my larger electric powered helicopters (550 and up), I actually run 2S LiPo or 2S LiFe RX packs in them just like my fuel powered ones for exact reason your mentioned about ESC BEC failures. I don't trust BEC's in larger machines - never have, never will 🙂
John Salt wow! At least I’m not the only one. I’ve downed 2 planes because of bec burnouts
You're not worried about the lead solder shrapnel/dust getting everywhere? I heard it can absorb into your skin and cause a bunch of health problems and then I also hear that it's no big deal at all. I've been trying to solder for years and every time I try I fail miserably. I even tried some high silver content kester lead-free solder that is supposed to have a low melting point but it's impossible to work with. For me anyways.
While I won't pretend for a second to be a health expert trained in toxicity levels of lead; I'll address your question with my own results & research on the subject.
Lead's primary method of absorption into the human meat servo is through ingestion and inhalation (why I say to wear a mask and eye protection when grinding). Very little lead is absorbed direct through the paws of the skin unless it's in solution. Washing your hands well after handling leaded solder (what I do) is good practice. If very concerned, wear surgical gloves for maximum protection. Perhaps my web page on soldering basics might be helpful: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-soldering.html
I'm also presuming you are an adult so your lead risks through exposure aren't as high. Children are the most susceptible to lead poising and since there are no rug rats running about in my work shop, the little bit of lead that is left on my work bench after vacuuming and a good wipe down doesn't concern me in the least.
At the end of the day, it's up to the individual to determine what they deem an acceptable level of risk-return trade off along with level of lead exposure. If you solder with leaded solder for hours daily, then the exposure risk is greater; if you only solder several times a month, not so much.
If still concerned, when you go for your yearly medical & get your blood work, have your doctor ask for a lead test as well. That's the only way to know for sure after all - real data. My last blood work (like every test before it) indicated normal low levels and I've been soldering with leaded solder for over 40 years now. Grew up in a house with some leaded paint as well - never ate the paint however :-)
Most importantly, don't listen to any goof on RUclips or the interweb giving you "free" toxicity risk advice - talk to your doctor. Moreover, to understand lead poising better and the risks involved, look to real medical and science based articles & journals. While not perfect, Wikipedia is generally a fairly good starting point since it tries representing real science backed information: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_poisoning
@@Rchelicopterfun Hands down the most informative well worded reply I've ever received. I've been trying to solder smaller things for years but even a lead-free solder with a high silver count is impossible to work with. Especially on stranded 10 awg wire. I'll spend an hour trying to do something with lead free solder that'll only takes a few seconds with 60/40. I only solder a few things a year so I'm going to go with 60/40. Much easier to work with. Just don't like the idea of sanding the 60/40 but I'm going to make some type of box to do it in to contain everything, because just like this video my 10awg sticks out a little too much and the dremel is necessary.
Will electrical tape work fine as heat shrink?
Yes, provided it doesn't unravel.
Why didn't you hold the tip on the outside of the bullet?
Two reasons: 1. I wanted as little (none) solder on the outside of the bullet. Since solder tends to flow toward the heat source, heating the outside of the bullet would increase the likelihood of any excess solder flowing to the outside of the pin. 2. For the best heat conductivity from the tip to the component being heated, you need solder between the tip and the component. Again, since I didn't want solder on the outside of the pin, it would be very difficult to transfer enough heat through a dry tip to the outside of the pin & then to the wire. I find it it's much easier, quicker, and efficient heating the wire up instead, and letting it then transfer the heat to the pin.
Do you have video of how to remove bullets?
Remove them from what? Remove wire from the bullet, or remove the bullet/s from a connector housing?
Remove a bullet from the esc wire. I want to replace the 6.5mm with a 8mm. I don’t want to cut the wire anymore it’s already to short.
Heat it up with a soldering iron or gun to melt the solder and remove it the same way you fit it.
Warum nimmt der beim roten Kabel schwarzen Schrumpfschlauch?
Because that's the only color I had in that size.
@@Rchelicopterfun ok
I wonder why i dont see more people using a turbo lighter for soldering bullet connectors, its much faster and more secure soldering.
And not nearly as controllable - that is why. Not more secure either - the mechanical strength of solder has absolutely nothing to do with how it's heated; it has to do with using the correct amount of heat, good quality & the type of solder and flux, oxide free surfaces, and of course good soldering technique.
Gotta get a fume absorber so you don't breathe in all those soldering fumes. Great video though.
Nothing better then the smell of flux fumes in the morning 😄
I find the best and quickest way to use solder paste and hot air solder. Brush the cable tip with quite a lot of paste. Put some in the bottom of the connector. Use crocodile clamps to fix the connector and cable still, at some downward inclination. Use hot air to heat up the solder paste until it reflows and slowly pours downwards into the connector making a nice solder cone with even temperature.
You have fire proof fingers hahaha.
😄
How dare you assign gender to those connectors. Who knows how they feel.
:)
Male has penis so...
You're cancelled
😂
Thank you
Welcome