I wish the F48 was available before I bought my F16v3 since I use receivers for everything. The F48 is the way to go for any application I can think of. Just locate the F48 in the house and run everything out into the snow via cat6 and 12v. Wonderful!
My F48 and 1 controller came in today. I really cannot belive how small they are (Yes, that's what she said). But it seems like everything that I was expecting was wrong. Size of the wires, size of the controllers, etc. But at the same time this helps me to realize some of my ideas are overkill and I can downsize some of the stuff. TY for yet ANOTHER addiction Jeff. Between Cycling across NYS for donations for Cancer research. This, my wife and video games I don't know if I will have time to finish epoxiing the floor in the garage.
Thank ya for all these videos, I’m new here and I’ll be hittin the link for your video for us new guys. This 21’ season will be my first time to do this and this video hopefully put me in the right direction. I’m only doing props in the yard this year and they’re my custom made trees, 16 in total all over the yard, which I believe this f48 will be a better choice. Just under 1600 pixels total in everything
@@texasmike7994 If they have them. It's supposed to be in Las Vegas this year. We had to do it virtually last year and may again this year. There's a virtual one coming up in April some time, but I don't have details yet.
Jeffrey! Committed to the course and am zipping through it. Need to get everything finalized for this year and get my props done...thank you for the help!
Thanks for yet another great video. I currently have (6) 50 led strings of GE iTwinkle lights that one of the wifi controllers went out and GE doesn't support them anymore. It looks like with this board I can control these lights and start building my show next year. Can't wait for the on-board wifi and audio!
SO is it safe to assume the F48 WILL support GECE protocol/language/lights from 2012, I know the F16v3 does, but the more I see the more I think the F48 will work with the distance. Someone please confirm the F48 will support GECE, thanks!! Tom
I honestly don't know. The supported pixels are listed on the web page, but I'm not sure what chip the GE bulbs use. You might want to check with David Pitts (his info is on the bottom of his web pages).
Wow! Very cool. Any chance you are going to be in Mesquite this weekend? Just want to shake your hand and tell you thanks for what you do. Promise not to tie you up. Really enjoyed the online class you put together. Answered a ton of questions and I have a good start for our first show I think.
I have a question about power injection for the Differential receiver. I have already hook up about 5 12 volt 50 ft. strands to 1 port of a Differential receiver. They all look good to me. How far can I go before I will need power injection? Thanks for your help.
Not sure I totally understand your setup. You have one receiver 50-feet from the main board and you've connected 5 12V strings to it? How many pixels? Regardless, the pixels will start to dim when they need power. You can usually tell easier/quicker if you run an all white pattern (all 3 LEDs pulling power).
Thanks for your quick reply. I guess I will put them on all white and power inject then take the power inject off to see the difference that way. Im new and Im happy just to get any lights doing anything at this point.😊 Thanks for your time Steve Taylor
It would be great if there were recievers that could handle my dumb rgb floods. seems really hard to find controllers that can manage 50w floods or more. This will be great for distant connection, not having to run starter cable sized wirings all over the ranch.
LOL! "not having to run starter cable sized wirings all over the ranch." I used it on my residential yard this year and it works really well. Check Alan's store for the "2811 dimmers (bit.ly/2tHwwwy)." I did a video on them. ruclips.net/video/dc9gOXgK718/видео.html They look like a 2811 pixel to the controller, but drive dumb RGB strings. He's in Australia, but has a Facebook page for US folks.
So if I use an f48 falcon board as a controller with a 12-volt power supply I would theoretically only have to run ethernet cables to the smart receivers with a 12 volt power supply also in the box with four pigtails coming from the receiver going to different props providing that the total pixel count is not more than 1096 correct? Is there a drop off in data sending with ethernet cables and would need some kind of data boost?
The F48 runs off a 5V wall wart or power supply and acts like a transmitter. Distance between the board and the receivers is 250ft or 75m with no signal loss. If you try to put pixels too far away from the receiver, you might run into signal problems there. It's basically pushing the ports out closer to your props. More expensive than the F16, but also more versatile especially if you have a large area to cover.
@@CanispaterChristmas awesome info thank you sir. At most the cables might travel 50ft. I do not have a large front yard unfortunately so most props and pixels will be fairly close to each other in the arrangement. Thank you for taking the time to answer as I'm very excited to start. Already looking online for supplies and pricing! Giving myself a full 13 months to aquire the items needed and for eventual set up.
What exactly is 'universes'? It's quite confusing? There are ports - each F48v4 controller has 12 ports and with one differential receiver per port we have 48 port? Then what is universes vs channels?
Read up on the E1.31 lighting protocol. 3 channels per pixel, 512 channels per universe (roughly 170 pixels with 2 bytes left over for the next universe). If you use xLights, it figures all that out for you.
The vendors that sell pixels will have pigtails that match your pixels, but they are usually sold separately. Some may include some. I've also made my own. If I have a long string of pixels spanning a connection, I'll salvage the pigtail for use elsewhere. I've also moved toward no pigtails in some instances just using the Euro-connectors to a differential receiver or controller output. I started out being really particular about all that and am moving to more of a "meh" as I gain experience. 😂
@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks for the fast reply. I'm getting in big to start, I have 2000 pixels, 2 power supplies and the Falcon 16v4 controller. I just need to figure out how to hook it all up.
I am working on a V4 video. Great controller. Yes, it's quite a learning curve, but the community is awesome about answering questions and helping new folks get up to speed. Be sure to check out the forums and Facebook groups - always folks around to help out. Welcome to the hobby!
Your course show how to wire all up? I have no ideia how to wire all the staff to make it rain proof. If you teach that in the course, i`ll be signing up
Watch my last video. I go through end-to-end. Most pixels come with pigtails/connectors that are not really water-tight, but good enough except for soaking them in puddles of water.
Hi Jeff!.. Thanks for these videos. VERY helpful. I now have the F48 and receiver boards. Any idea why the 4 5-10 nodes on two separate hanging faces light when plugged in? 172 nodes each. Using a 12v 2A power supply for each face. Also when running a sequence the faces blink. Seems the power supply does the same (blink)? Looking for a useful place for troubleshooting techniques for these boards.. ?
Check the voltage on the power supply to make sure it isn't over 12V. You might be able to get away with 12.1, but pixels like a narrow range of voltage. When it gets too high, then tend to lock on. You could also have noise on the data line which does strange things. Then there's the possibility of a bad ground.
Can I ask a question that everyone probably knows the answer to but me? If I can just use a cheap 12v or 5v adapter to plug in my f48... Can I just use the same adapter to plus in my receivers? Obviously it doesn’t have the port (no idea why) but can I just cut the plug off and split the ends instead of buying those fancy metal meanwell ones?!
@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks for letting me know! So what you're saying is that the F48 doesn't power any pixels and therefore can use less power because it only needs to move data. Confusing but I get it now, thanks!
You made mention a support manual for this new controller. I have yet to find one on the pixel controller LLC site or anywhere else. Any help would be appreciated where I can get some detailed product documentation
Hmm. I don't see one either. Sent a note to David. However, most of the electronics are identical to the F16V3 except for the outputs so that manual might answer some of your questions. What are you needing info on?
@@CanispaterChristmas Newbie on this controller (last time I was in this space I build the old DIY Renard SS 24 AC controller) so just trying to understand user operation related info, firmware update process etc. Your video did a great job covering 98% but would be nice to have some support documentation
I know this is an old video but I’ve ordered the new f48v4 and my questions are there is two types I see of the new v4, can you tell me the difference? Thanks for the videos you make
Jeff,I have a F48 and use xlights, I would like to make some props that would have 4 to 6 pixels in each that I would like to all react as one (same color, same brightness) and be counted as one pixel so I could chase from one prop to the next. I may have to add an amplifier from one prop to the next due to the length between them. Please let me know how to set this up in xlights.
Keith did a video about this recently: videos.xlights.org/xlights-beginner-seminar-september-2018_979bab63d.html It's easier if you can find something that represents the look close enough and then up the string count.
Do you have a video or blog somewhere that shows how you do your enclosures for the F48 receivers? I don't see many enclosure builds online & am very curious how you're doing it.
@@CanispaterChristmas last question on this, I promise! Im thinking of using a 9.5” x 4.25” x 6.5” ammo box with 1 power supply and a receiver. I live in Florida which is pretty hot, do you think I need a vent for the enclosure or would it be ok without? Im not sure how hot the power supply would get in the box.
Yeah who knows? I show the boxes in one of my setup videos I believe. They are pretty small. Room for the PS and the DR is held in place with friction (so not much room). I haven't done a temperature test, but they haven't failed either. Not very scientific I know, but just some data for you. I suppose the correct thing to do would be to run a temperature sensor inside the box during a show and see how hot it gets. Mine get warm and any new boxes I build, I add a little more room for air just to be safe but I haven't vented any of mine. ...and it's Texas. Generally though, even though it can be in the 70s during the day in December, it usually cools down quite a bit at night during showtime so factor that into it too. Basically, do your own testing to see what you need. If I were in Alaska, I'd imagine I'd have other issues to deal with. lol!
So I finally got around to buying a controller and some lights. I hooked up my falcon f16v3 to a 12 volt power supply to input 1. Had jumpers set to 7-13. The lights on the fuses and the input supply but the oled would not start. Tried the buttons. Actually all of them. No luck....sad, any ideas?
@@CanispaterChristmas thank you. I just signed up for your class. It is great. I am hoping you would consider doing a more detailed lesson on each or maybe an advanced class. So far you are the best source of information I have been able to find. Thank you for making these videos.
@@ATeamAdam Thanks! More detail on... what detail are you looking for? I'm always trying to think of more I could do, but having trouble figuring out what would be helpful. I also have plans for a couple of lessons, but specifics would be helpful.
@@CanispaterChristmas it would be great to show how to display a movie image on a matrix or mega tree in xlights. I also think it would be great to show how to make a single effect play through the entire display like one large image. (Scratch that I realize you have already explained). I guess any help with customizing effects as opposed to using the preset ones would be huge.
Just got the F48...plugged in using a similar 5v supply from amazon UK, but no power. Tried the power supply in other things and it seems fine. Am I doing anything silly? Anything I have to do before it turns on?
No. It should just come on. Takes about 5 seconds to boot, but if it's getting a good power connection, it should come on. Maybe the internal pin isn't making a connection?
@@CanispaterChristmas thanks, think I found the problem. Testing with a multimeter my supply is giving 5.7v...user manual says the board will not power on if above 5.5v.
Excellent newbie question, but it's like a fierce Mac vs Window debate. From what I can tell, the HC controller is more like the Falcon F16 and I have both the F16 & F48 so I'll answer from that perspective. It really depends on your display. The F16 is great (and the value proposition) if you have a fairly concentrated display. Controller to first pixel is roughly 20-30 feet. I've heard the HC controller has better distance, but I don't know what that is and there's technical reasons for that which can be easily remedied on the Falcon is needed. The F16 has 16 output ports, but can be expanded to 48 with expansion boards. Some people prefer to run more, but shorter strings. Others prefer to run fewer, but longer strings and inject power. Personal preference. Now the F48 doesn't actually have any pixel output ports. It distributes data to differential receivers that have 4 ports on them. It's more expensive than the F16 due to having to buy the DRs, but it allows you to run one controller and space out the props since distance is 328 feet from the controller to the DRs (then an additional 20-30 feet from the DR). Does that help at all or did I just make you want to say "to heck with it" and buy some strings from your local home improvement warehouse? :)
Hey Jeff I am just getting started and I am trying to figure out who to make a show network and you please go into detail on the I have watch you class on Udemy but no where show how to do that or please point me in the right direction
Thanks! Well, a show network is a best practice. If you have a small number of pixels for your first year, you may be able to get by without going through that hassle and just run everything in your home network. A show network is just a separate network that is different from your home network. If you have a Raspberry Pi running FPP, you can assign the WiFi interface to your home network and the Ethernet jack as a show network. You just need to make sure the show network is one of the private IP networks so most people use the 192.168.x.x network, but there are a couple of others. Typical home networks are 192.168.1.x, but they might be something else. I use 192.168.2.x for my show network. This video might help: ruclips.net/video/kn1BiolQbgw/видео.html
In my example above, the Pi acts as a router between the two networks. This is probably one of those things you'd need more direct help with. Have you tried logging into the xLights zoom room (see xlights.org)? There are people in there most of the time that can help directly by having you share your screen and can walk you through the process of getting it set up. I don't know how helpful I'm going to be in comments.
CanispaterChristmas oh ok so the falcon pixel controller plugs right Into the pi I thought you had a pi plug into a router and the router plug into the pixel controller that is where I got lost
@@allstar002 Oh! No. I was just using a network switch. Those are fairly inexpensive and just allow connecting multiple cables together. The F16V3 has a 2-port network switch built into the board so yes, you can plug the Pi directly into the F16.
I'm sorry. My math is not adding up to controlling 16,000 pixels with the f48. The whole "bank" and sharing 1,024 pixels per bank is throwing me off. Can you help?
Haha. 1,024 allocated across 3 serial ports. Each serial port drives a DR. Each DR has 4 pixel ports. So technically, 3 serial ports shares 4,096 pixels. Makes more sense on the F16V3, but is similar in concept on the F48.
Still clueless. Trying to determine which board to get and think of future expansions. I'm not running 16000 pixels now, but could see myself getting there. Can I truly control 16000 addressable nodes with the f48?
Based on your question, you might benefit from going through this playlist if you haven't already: ruclips.net/p/PLFyrAfJ-kKd4ZfPdXWIt8v_bav61mW_KW It covers the basics of the hobby. I wouldn't worry about getting it perfect your first year. I recommend starting small and expanding when you're ready. The F48 is a great controller and yes, it can support over 16k pixels, but you have to plan it out a little. Lurk around in the FB groups and attend the xlights zoom calls to gain a better understanding of how everything works. Plenty of time to get ready for lighting season. :)
Starting off this year (2020) I’m just coming across this f48 and it seems like it will better suit me with my house outlines and windows/yard assortments, but I was looking at doing a mega tree ran by a f16, how would I link these two together as I’m trying to avoid doing a network this year and just running straight from my spare laptop?
The F16 & F48 both have a 2-port switch so you can connect them together. There will be at least some network between the computer and controller. FYI, I run my tree off 1 differential receiver. 4 strings of 300 folded at 50 so it looks like 24 strings. Brightness at 30%.
CanispaterChristmas so I opted with the F48. I don’t have a router yet (next purchase) but is there a way I can access the falcon by direct Ethernet from my laptop? I have gotten confused with all the network stuff at this point
@@danielmilner8946 For testing, just plug the controller into your home network. It will get an IP address automatically. You can open a browser on your computer to the IP address on the OLED and see the configuration pages. You can also connect a cable direct from the computer to the controller, but you'd have to set up static IP addresses on both. Home network for playing around is easiest.
5V pixels are about 50-80 and 12V pixels are about 80-100 for all white at 100% brightness assuming power draw is .06amps per LED (check the specs of the pixels). If you drop the brightness, you can get more. Just make sure the pixel chip is supported by the controller.
Jeff I am building a matrix with 40 columns and 30 rows for a total of 1200 pixels. I have a F48 controller and I am not sure I can do it with, 2 strings, 600 nodes/string, and 20 strands/string. this would use 2 ports of the differential reviver. I am a little confused with the 510/512 limit. I am trying to install the pixels right now so I want to make sure the wiring layout is correct.
If you model it in xLights (assuming you're using xLights), right-click on the model and choose "wiring view." This is what it looks like from the back of the prop and will help you wire it like xLights thinks it's wired based on the parameters you typed in. 510 vs 512. An E1.31 universe is made up of 512 channels of data in one packet. 512 channels = 170 pixels plus 2 channels left over. Early controllers only allowed you to use 510 channels to make the number of pixels per universe even. It's all computers and they don't care so newer controllers allow you to use 510 or 512 with the last channel of pixel #171 spilling over into the next universe. It's more of a technical detail and must match what your controller is capable of handling, but really nothing more than that.
With the differential controller it feels like 5V pixels would be a little more enticing because of the ability to decentralize your power supplies. What are your thoughts on 5V vs 12V with this controller?
5 vs 12 is a Mac vs Windows thing. 99% of my stuff is 12V because I hate dealing with power issues, but 5V pixels are more efficient. Decentralized or not, you will need to inject power more with 5V, but some people kinda like that challenge. lol!
Hi. I have a newbie question. What size power wire are you using to power the differential receivers? They could, in theory, draw up to 20A, which would seem to dictate a 10AWG wire (reference: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html). However, this seems like overkill, especially since the terminal post on the back of a LRS-350-12 won't likely fit this size wire.
Yes, just add more E1.31 in xLights. You don't have to max it out. I usually just add enough for what I model. I don't know if it bloats the FSEQ any if you allocate E1.31, but don't use it. Of course, you have to remember to adjust the E1.31 if you add more models. :)
Good video. I have done your class and seen most of your videos. I am moving to xlights and into pixels this year. Insert (I need some Help please) I took my LOR controller and placed it on the f48 dmx ports and configured. Now I have 8 strands of 15 pixels per strand. I have it in port 1-4 on my f48 and then I have daisy chained 2 falcon smart differential controllers that have been set to A, B and then DIP terminated on B. Here is my problem I don't know how to configure it properly on the falcon controller site the LOR was easy but don't know how to map it correctly for falcon ex. starting the universe and running 8 strands through the smart diff boards. I would like to start the universe on 6 other than that I'm lost. I know this is a lot but and guidance would help.
Thanks for taking the course. I hope it was helpful! So did you do (or need to do) the firmware upgrade on the F48? I think it needs to be at least 2.55 (I have another video about the smart receivers (ruclips.net/video/uyGo76NJ_bM/видео.html) and it's all covered in there). If your firmware is good, you should be able to expand it on the outputs page to get to the settings. Also, if you are using xLights, I highly recommend using that to program the controller. It is so much easier than doing it manually, but I can understand wanting to know how to do it. Also, for help, there are probably folks hanging out in the xLights Zoom room now that can help live (you can share your screen and they can talk you through it). If not, that's cool, just need the basic info first.
@@CanispaterChristmas I do have the latest firmware 2.55. I was watching this video but I do not have the output to controller option on my controller tab. I see it at the bottom but it is grayed out?
@@dktechnologysolutions3706 That probably means they aren't talking to each other. Is the controller on the same network as your computer? By default, it's set to automatically get an IP address (DHCP) unless you changed it to your show net manually.
@@CanispaterChristmas i followed your networking videos. I have a show network of 192.168.2.25 static and my lor is working with universe/id 1 channels 1-16. I have the smart boards a&b in port 1-4 on the f48 and have it universe/id 6 channels 510(17-526)
@@paulingalls2133 If it's on your home network, it should get one automatically, if on a show network you set up yourself, you will have to enter one manually. Either use the buttons on the board or set it up on your home network first, then change the IP address through the web page.
@@CanispaterChristmas i set the address with oled thanks next problem is my matrix 5 cross 5 down = 320x160 but in led screen settings receiver cards parameters won`t let me change width to 320 ??
@@paulingalls2133 For this, you should log onto the xLights zoom room. There may be someone there that can help you live. If not now, certainly on Wednesday night. I have no idea what to tell you since I don't know what matrix setup you have.
According to the video, the F48 can support GECE, but I am being told "The F16v3 can control GECE"... The question is, has anyone been able to get the "older (2012)" GE Color Effects to work with the F48??
@@CanispaterChristmas THANKS!!! I really appreciate it. Please let me know what you find out. BTW, I LOVE your videos... you are Hilarious and smart as ever.
I signed up for your class, planning for next year. I will probably go with the F48, because I think my props will be spread out pretty far. I’d like to put the F48 in the garage. We have a corner lot and I’d prefer just running data cables to receivers. I have power at both ends of the house. My question is regarding the power supplies. Do they stay on 24/7 or do they only come on when data is sent to the controller? It’s a burning curiosity that I have right now. Lol. And thanks for the video. I was back and forth on the F48 and F16. I even talked to David and couldn’t decide.
Awesome! Thanks! Let me know if I left anything out of the class - trying to make sure it covers everything someone needs to know. I do plan on adding a couple of lessons now that everything is set up, but the basic info is there and you'll get an update when they're added. Yeah, there is more expense with the F48 and receivers, but if props are spread out, it's an easier install IMO. I completely rewired the show this year and it seemed easier to test one receiver at a time. Currently, the power supplies stay on because I have one large power cable snaked through the display and I don't want to just shut down the P10 sign's BBB. I'm going to power it separately then I can shut everything down (except for the sign) which will reduce power consumption. It's about 200W at idle and no need to waste (and pay for unused) energy. I have a Wemo switch monitoring power consumption that is connected to my home automation system that could easily be turned on and off just before and after showtime.
Is there a safe way to shut power off to the controller after each show? If I have the controller plugged into a wemo type switch, would it be safe to have it scheduled to shut power off to the controller after show end each night and scheduled to turn on prior to show start the next day?
CanispaterChristmas Thank you for the reply. I just now saw it. I never got a notification. I finished your class. I bought a few pixel strings and have played around with them in test mode on the F48. Now I’m trying to figure out where to start now. Props, layout, etc. I bought an outdoor Meross WiFi plugs to control my inflatables outside. It worked flawlessly and works with IFTTT. I’ll probably get more to power down/on everything.
@@FourWheeler575 Thanks! "Test mode" you mean from the F48 or have you been able to go from xLights to the F48? Either way, getting the lights to come on is a huge accomplishment! As for props - it's kinda like the exercise in the class. Outlining doors and windows and getting those working. You can also check out www.boscoyostudio.com for things to put the pixels into to make them into props. I use the strips (bit.ly/2rNthSR) a lot.
Hi! Im a bit confused and I hope you can help me out :D. So the description page says that it can run 16,384 pixels but i just don't understand how its supposed to run so many pixels. As far as I understand this board has 12 ports. Each port can be connected to a receiver and each receiver can run 4 strings of 50 pixels = 200 pixels per receiver. Even if I daisy-chained 3 receivers per output I would get 600 pixels. So 600 x 12 =7,200 pixels. The other way I understand is that the board has 4 columns of 3 ports and for each group of 3 I can only drive 1024 pixels. So 1024 x 4 = 4,096. So I know I'm missing something and I'm feeling very stupid hehehe. Any explanation would be much appreciated. Thanks for the videos!
It might be helpful to understand how the F16V3 handles that number and extrapolate it over to the F48. The F16 comes with 16 ports on the board. Each one can handle 1,024 pixels for a total of 16,384. If you add expansion boards, that 1024 is shared among the main board and expansion boards. So if you added two 16-port expansion boards for a total of 16*3=48 ports, port 1, 17 and 33 would share 1,024 pixels and there is a slider on the web page to proportion the pixels supported by each board. On the F48, it's the same hardware, but a different delivery system (the differential receivers). Each group of 3 ports on the F48 form the sharing groups. Let's say you have the top row assigned 300 pixels for example (the other two would share the rest). So the differential receivers on the top row would all be set to 300. That means each of the 4 ports on each receiver would support 300 pixels (1,200 total). By default, the controller is set to support 50 pixels per string so you don't blow the fuse, but you can change that number once you understand how to do power injection to keep current distributed by the board under 5-amps.
@@CanispaterChristmas ooooooh now i understand. Thanks a lot for taking the time in replying!!! And also thanks a lot for your videos in general cuz they have helped a lot of us. Cheers!
Haha. I don't see one on the web site yet, and I don't remember exactly where in the video that was referring to, but if it was the DMX ports, the F16V3 manual should help there as they are the same or at least very similar. Really, most of the top half of the boards are the same so if it's something up top, the F16V3 manual may be of help. Do you just want to see the manual or did you have a specific area you need help with?
I already have the F16V2-R that I have used the past couple years. This year I am expanding and the F48 made more since to split up in sections. I have a Pi with FPP that runs my shows. So what I am looking for is information on using the new F48 as a master controller with the Pi attached to it then daisy chaining to the F16V2-R to act as a "differential board" of sorts. I doubt that is how it really works but I figured the F48 manual "if there is one" would have information on how to setup the daisy chain in this way. Do I have to assign each board it's own IP address, Do I need 2 pi's to use both boards, would it make more since to take the F16V2-R out of the picture completely and just use the F48
Posting here is the best place since I get notified and others can benefit. So the Pi will be the FPP master. It sends out E1.31 data via ethernet into the F48. The F48 has a 2-port switch so you can come back out of the F48 on the second ETH port to the F16V2-R (daisy chain). Differential boards, even though they use ethernet connectors should NOT be connected to E1.31 and differential output should NOT be connected to E1.31 - that can hurt the board (ethernet and differential data are different so don't cross the streams :) ). Similar to the F16V3, where it has 16 ports, when you add expansion boards, they share the 1,024 pixels among the ports. So the F16 has 16 pixel output ports, an expansion board has 16 pixel output ports and if you use 2 expansion boards for 48 outputs total, port 1 on the F16, port 1 on expansion #1 and port 1 on expansion #2 share 1,024 pixels (there is a slider on the string ports page you use to proportion the numbers on each board). Similarly, the F48 shares 1,024 pixels for each column of 3 differential outputs (same slider on the string ports page). Also, the spec sheet on the F16V3 says max 96 universes and max 49,152 channels (not pixels). The V2s are 64 universes and 32,640 channels. Divide channels by 3 to get pixels if running RGB pixels. 16,384 * 3 = 49,152 channels. Does that help?
Sort of, I think what is throwing me off is that the spec sheet says up to 1022 per pixel output but it says 1024 max pixels per pixel output below that. not sure what the difference is there. basically each port can run on the expansion boards can run 1024 pixels if you had all 48 ports diveded evenly. another thing that I am not clear on is 1024 pixels shared for each column of 3 differential outputs. I am drawing up a diagram of the board along with the information above to try and make more since of this.
JUST GETTING INTO RGB. RECIEVED F48 TODAY AND EX BOARDS. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG I JUST WANT TO TEST MY STRING? DO I NEED DATA OR IN TEST MODE SHOULDN`T THEY LIGHT? THANKS ENJOY VIDEOS
If you got the new chainable Differential Receivers (multiple input connectors), they have a test mode built in. You don't even need the controller to test. Just power and pixels.
I am a newbee and have been watching all your video's the last few days. This is the system for me, thanx! ;) The Differential Receiver Board you show in the video is not the same as the one they are selling on their website. Is yours a new version that has not been released yet? The 4-String Differential Receiver Board on the site has no LED's at the fuses and doesn't mention connecting to the F48.
They may not have updated the image on the website yet. It's essentially the same board. I believe the new ones are all that he is shipping now, but you can send David an email if you are worried about it. The one from last year had an error on the silkscreen showing a clock line (4-wire pixels), but the board only supports 3-wire pixels. The silkscreen has been corrected on the newer boards and the fuses now have indicator lights. That's the only difference between the two. The differential output is the same. The F48 has 12 differential outputs where the F16V3 only has 1, but is expandable.
Last we spoke, he’s working feverishly to get it done - I’m guessing by expo if possible, but no firm date yet. I understand the beta for the F16V3 works well, but I haven’t been able to try it (no PC). He’s also working on removing that dependency. We’ll know more in a week.
I believe the update will allow it to act as a slave so you’d still need a master somewhere to drive everything, but it could handle sync packets over WiFi.
I got mine. Am figuring things out, I was thinking I could run a 100 pixels off the card powered, but now see it can only be 50 native power. Stupid question, I see you can name each item in port description, and adjust the brightness output there. IE I see you had 10% power at some point. Is that a good way of making my show for instance 60% when I am done? As always thank you!
At showtime, I use the controller setting to reduce to 30% so I don't have to remember to do it on every sequence, but I believe all the sequencers have a way to do it in software. There's also ways to do it in the players (FPP & xSchedule). Really personal preference and according to your needs, but I just do it on the controller(s) to keep from confusing myself. It still happens from time to time though. lol!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Just ordered the F48 and 5 of the 4-String Differential Receiver Boards today. Can’t wait to use this!
👍
I wish the F48 was available before I bought my F16v3 since I use receivers for everything. The F48 is the way to go for any application I can think of. Just locate the F48 in the house and run everything out into the snow via cat6 and 12v. Wonderful!
That just means you need to add more pixels so you can justify getting an F48 and use the F16 for a concentrated group of pixels. :)
My F48 and 1 controller came in today. I really cannot belive how small they are (Yes, that's what she said). But it seems like everything that I was expecting was wrong. Size of the wires, size of the controllers, etc. But at the same time this helps me to realize some of my ideas are overkill and I can downsize some of the stuff. TY for yet ANOTHER addiction Jeff. Between Cycling across NYS for donations for Cancer research. This, my wife and video games I don't know if I will have time to finish epoxiing the floor in the garage.
Yes, it's quite addictive. You're welcome! 😂
Thank ya for all these videos, I’m new here and I’ll be hittin the link for your video for us new guys. This 21’ season will be my first time to do this and this video hopefully put me in the right direction. I’m only doing props in the yard this year and they’re my custom made trees, 16 in total all over the yard, which I believe this f48 will be a better choice. Just under 1600 pixels total in everything
Thanks! I use both an F48 and F16 for different things. The F48 runs most of the display. It's a nice controller.
Canispater Christmas aka Jeff are you goin to any expos this year?
@@texasmike7994 If they have them. It's supposed to be in Las Vegas this year. We had to do it virtually last year and may again this year. There's a virtual one coming up in April some time, but I don't have details yet.
Canispater Christmas aka Jeff I see there’s one goin on in St. Louis in may, me bein in Indiana I’ll surely be goin down there for it
@TexasMike So... IndianaMike? 😂
Jeffrey! Committed to the course and am zipping through it. Need to get everything finalized for this year and get my props done...thank you for the help!
👍
Thanks for yet another great video. I currently have (6) 50 led strings of GE iTwinkle lights that one of the wifi controllers went out and GE doesn't support them anymore. It looks like with this board I can control these lights and start building my show next year. Can't wait for the on-board wifi and audio!
SO is it safe to assume the F48 WILL support GECE protocol/language/lights from 2012, I know the F16v3 does, but the more I see the more I think the F48 will work with the distance. Someone please confirm the F48 will support GECE, thanks!! Tom
I honestly don't know. The supported pixels are listed on the web page, but I'm not sure what chip the GE bulbs use. You might want to check with David Pitts (his info is on the bottom of his web pages).
Wow! Very cool. Any chance you are going to be in Mesquite this weekend? Just want to shake your hand and tell you thanks for what you do. Promise not to tie you up. Really enjoyed the online class you put together. Answered a ton of questions and I have a good start for our first show I think.
Thanks! Yes, I plan to be there. Be sure to say “hello.”
I have a question about power injection for the Differential receiver. I have already hook up about 5 12 volt 50 ft. strands to 1 port of a Differential receiver. They all look good to me. How far can I go before I will need power injection? Thanks for your help.
Not sure I totally understand your setup. You have one receiver 50-feet from the main board and you've connected 5 12V strings to it? How many pixels? Regardless, the pixels will start to dim when they need power. You can usually tell easier/quicker if you run an all white pattern (all 3 LEDs pulling power).
Thanks for your quick reply. I guess I will put them on all white and power inject then take the power inject off to see the difference that way. Im new and Im happy just to get any lights doing anything at this point.😊
Thanks for your time
Steve Taylor
Is the falcon f16 smart receiver expansion board just a smaller f48?
Kinda. It's 4 differential ports - F48 has 12. It also shares pixels with the main board.
Doood...awesome narration voice! And really good content too.
Haha! Thanks!
Thanks Jeff. I’m usually on my cell phone watching your videos so I don’t usually see some of the links
No worries. Was that what you were looking for?
It would be great if there were recievers that could handle my dumb rgb floods. seems really hard to find controllers that can manage 50w floods or more.
This will be great for distant connection, not having to run starter cable sized wirings all over the ranch.
LOL! "not having to run starter cable sized wirings all over the ranch." I used it on my residential yard this year and it works really well. Check Alan's store for the "2811 dimmers (bit.ly/2tHwwwy)." I did a video on them. ruclips.net/video/dc9gOXgK718/видео.html They look like a 2811 pixel to the controller, but drive dumb RGB strings. He's in Australia, but has a Facebook page for US folks.
So if I use an f48 falcon board as a controller with a 12-volt power supply I would theoretically only have to run ethernet cables to the smart receivers with a 12 volt power supply also in the box with four pigtails coming from the receiver going to different props providing that the total pixel count is not more than 1096 correct? Is there a drop off in data sending with ethernet cables and would need some kind of data boost?
The F48 runs off a 5V wall wart or power supply and acts like a transmitter. Distance between the board and the receivers is 250ft or 75m with no signal loss. If you try to put pixels too far away from the receiver, you might run into signal problems there. It's basically pushing the ports out closer to your props. More expensive than the F16, but also more versatile especially if you have a large area to cover.
@@CanispaterChristmas awesome info thank you sir. At most the cables might travel 50ft. I do not have a large front yard unfortunately so most props and pixels will be fairly close to each other in the arrangement. Thank you for taking the time to answer as I'm very excited to start. Already looking online for supplies and pricing! Giving myself a full 13 months to aquire the items needed and for eventual set up.
What exactly is 'universes'? It's quite confusing? There are ports - each F48v4 controller has 12 ports and with one differential receiver per port we have 48 port? Then what is universes vs channels?
Read up on the E1.31 lighting protocol. 3 channels per pixel, 512 channels per universe (roughly 170 pixels with 2 bytes left over for the next universe). If you use xLights, it figures all that out for you.
I am brand new to this and was wondering where you get your 3 wire pig tails?
The vendors that sell pixels will have pigtails that match your pixels, but they are usually sold separately. Some may include some. I've also made my own. If I have a long string of pixels spanning a connection, I'll salvage the pigtail for use elsewhere. I've also moved toward no pigtails in some instances just using the Euro-connectors to a differential receiver or controller output. I started out being really particular about all that and am moving to more of a "meh" as I gain experience. 😂
@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks for the fast reply. I'm getting in big to start, I have 2000 pixels, 2 power supplies and the Falcon 16v4 controller. I just need to figure out how to hook it all up.
I am working on a V4 video. Great controller. Yes, it's quite a learning curve, but the community is awesome about answering questions and helping new folks get up to speed. Be sure to check out the forums and Facebook groups - always folks around to help out. Welcome to the hobby!
Your course show how to wire all up? I have no ideia how to wire all the staff to make it rain proof. If you teach that in the course, i`ll be signing up
Watch my last video. I go through end-to-end. Most pixels come with pigtails/connectors that are not really water-tight, but good enough except for soaking them in puddles of water.
Hi Jeff!.. Thanks for these videos. VERY helpful. I now have the F48 and receiver boards. Any idea why the 4 5-10 nodes on two separate hanging faces light when plugged in? 172 nodes each. Using a 12v 2A power supply for each face. Also when running a sequence the faces blink. Seems the power supply does the same (blink)? Looking for a useful place for troubleshooting techniques for these boards.. ?
Check the voltage on the power supply to make sure it isn't over 12V. You might be able to get away with 12.1, but pixels like a narrow range of voltage. When it gets too high, then tend to lock on. You could also have noise on the data line which does strange things. Then there's the possibility of a bad ground.
Can I ask a question that everyone probably knows the answer to but me? If I can just use a cheap 12v or 5v adapter to plug in my f48... Can I just use the same adapter to plus in my receivers? Obviously it doesn’t have the port (no idea why) but can I just cut the plug off and split the ends instead of buying those fancy metal meanwell ones?!
A small wall wort won't drive many pixels. The MeanWells I use are 350-watt (30-amp) power supplies.
@@CanispaterChristmas Thanks for letting me know! So what you're saying is that the F48 doesn't power any pixels and therefore can use less power because it only needs to move data. Confusing but I get it now, thanks!
@@MichaelAuzDrillDesigns Yes. The F48 only outputs data to differential receivers that have pixel ports.
How many universes per receiver can go with it.?
It depends on how many pixels you allocate to the port the receiver is plugged into.
You made mention a support manual for this new controller. I have yet to find one on the pixel controller LLC site or anywhere else. Any help would be appreciated where I can get some detailed product documentation
Hmm. I don't see one either. Sent a note to David. However, most of the electronics are identical to the F16V3 except for the outputs so that manual might answer some of your questions. What are you needing info on?
@@CanispaterChristmas Newbie on this controller (last time I was in this space I build the old DIY Renard SS 24 AC controller) so just trying to understand user operation related info, firmware update process etc. Your video did a great job covering 98% but would be nice to have some support documentation
@@petevorenkamp4196 This just in from David! docs.google.com/document/d/1sAzoFztiKdI3BPDl_Kegu28DKKlIM4PlSNaCNvvDtgk
@@CanispaterChristmas Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!!! David heard us ;-)
I know this is an old video but I’ve ordered the new f48v4 and my questions are there is two types I see of the new v4, can you tell me the difference? Thanks for the videos you make
F48V4 & f16V4 or two F48s?
@@CanispaterChristmas f48v4, there seems to be two versions of the new blue v4
I assume it's a part replacement due to shortages or something like that. I'll see if I can find out.
Jeff,I have a F48 and use xlights, I would like to make some props that would have 4 to 6 pixels in each that I would like to all react as one (same color, same brightness) and be counted as one pixel so I could chase from one prop to the next. I may have to add an amplifier from one prop to the next due to the length between them. Please let me know how to set this up in xlights.
Keith did a video about this recently: videos.xlights.org/xlights-beginner-seminar-september-2018_979bab63d.html It's easier if you can find something that represents the look close enough and then up the string count.
Do you have a video or blog somewhere that shows how you do your enclosures for the F48 receivers? I don't see many enclosure builds online & am very curious how you're doing it.
I just have my F48 inside a CG-1500. Wasn't really much of a build. 🎄🤣
@@CanispaterChristmas Asking about the receivers though. Did you use cg1500's and put 2 receivers and 2 power supplies in each cg1500?
Oh. Na. You do what you need for your display. You CAN put to in a CG-1500, but I've used more with one in a plastic ammo case.
@@CanispaterChristmas last question on this, I promise! Im thinking of using a 9.5” x 4.25” x 6.5” ammo box with 1 power supply and a receiver. I live in Florida which is pretty hot, do you think I need a vent for the enclosure or would it be ok without? Im not sure how hot the power supply would get in the box.
Yeah who knows? I show the boxes in one of my setup videos I believe. They are pretty small. Room for the PS and the DR is held in place with friction (so not much room). I haven't done a temperature test, but they haven't failed either. Not very scientific I know, but just some data for you. I suppose the correct thing to do would be to run a temperature sensor inside the box during a show and see how hot it gets. Mine get warm and any new boxes I build, I add a little more room for air just to be safe but I haven't vented any of mine. ...and it's Texas. Generally though, even though it can be in the 70s during the day in December, it usually cools down quite a bit at night during showtime so factor that into it too. Basically, do your own testing to see what you need. If I were in Alaska, I'd imagine I'd have other issues to deal with. lol!
So I finally got around to buying a controller and some lights. I hooked up my falcon f16v3 to a 12 volt power supply to input 1. Had jumpers set to 7-13. The lights on the fuses and the input supply but the oled would not start. Tried the buttons. Actually all of them. No luck....sad, any ideas?
The board is powered from input 2. Try that.
@@CanispaterChristmas thank you. I just signed up for your class. It is great. I am hoping you would consider doing a more detailed lesson on each or maybe an advanced class. So far you are the best source of information I have been able to find. Thank you for making these videos.
@@ATeamAdam Thanks! More detail on... what detail are you looking for? I'm always trying to think of more I could do, but having trouble figuring out what would be helpful. I also have plans for a couple of lessons, but specifics would be helpful.
@@CanispaterChristmas it would be great to show how to display a movie image on a matrix or mega tree in xlights. I also think it would be great to show how to make a single effect play through the entire display like one large image. (Scratch that I realize you have already explained). I guess any help with customizing effects as opposed to using the preset ones would be huge.
Just got the F48...plugged in using a similar 5v supply from amazon UK, but no power. Tried the power supply in other things and it seems fine. Am I doing anything silly? Anything I have to do before it turns on?
No. It should just come on. Takes about 5 seconds to boot, but if it's getting a good power connection, it should come on. Maybe the internal pin isn't making a connection?
@@CanispaterChristmas thanks, think I found the problem. Testing with a multimeter my supply is giving 5.7v...user manual says the board will not power on if above 5.5v.
@@richiehutchison8332 Ah. I know pixels operate in a fairly narrow range. 12V good. 13V bad. 😂
NEWBIE HERE! anywhere to compare the falcon product to the holiday coro comparable product?
Excellent newbie question, but it's like a fierce Mac vs Window debate. From what I can tell, the HC controller is more like the Falcon F16 and I have both the F16 & F48 so I'll answer from that perspective. It really depends on your display. The F16 is great (and the value proposition) if you have a fairly concentrated display. Controller to first pixel is roughly 20-30 feet. I've heard the HC controller has better distance, but I don't know what that is and there's technical reasons for that which can be easily remedied on the Falcon is needed. The F16 has 16 output ports, but can be expanded to 48 with expansion boards. Some people prefer to run more, but shorter strings. Others prefer to run fewer, but longer strings and inject power. Personal preference. Now the F48 doesn't actually have any pixel output ports. It distributes data to differential receivers that have 4 ports on them. It's more expensive than the F16 due to having to buy the DRs, but it allows you to run one controller and space out the props since distance is 328 feet from the controller to the DRs (then an additional 20-30 feet from the DR). Does that help at all or did I just make you want to say "to heck with it" and buy some strings from your local home improvement warehouse? :)
Hey Jeff I am just getting started and I am trying to figure out who to make a show network and you please go into detail on the I have watch you class on Udemy but no where show how to do that or please point me in the right direction
Thanks! Well, a show network is a best practice. If you have a small number of pixels for your first year, you may be able to get by without going through that hassle and just run everything in your home network. A show network is just a separate network that is different from your home network. If you have a Raspberry Pi running FPP, you can assign the WiFi interface to your home network and the Ethernet jack as a show network. You just need to make sure the show network is one of the private IP networks so most people use the 192.168.x.x network, but there are a couple of others. Typical home networks are 192.168.1.x, but they might be something else. I use 192.168.2.x for my show network. This video might help: ruclips.net/video/kn1BiolQbgw/видео.html
Have watch that one so is it a different router and how do you change the set up address?
In my example above, the Pi acts as a router between the two networks. This is probably one of those things you'd need more direct help with. Have you tried logging into the xLights zoom room (see xlights.org)? There are people in there most of the time that can help directly by having you share your screen and can walk you through the process of getting it set up. I don't know how helpful I'm going to be in comments.
CanispaterChristmas oh ok so the falcon pixel controller plugs right Into the pi I thought you had a pi plug into a router and the router plug into the pixel controller that is where I got lost
@@allstar002 Oh! No. I was just using a network switch. Those are fairly inexpensive and just allow connecting multiple cables together. The F16V3 has a 2-port network switch built into the board so yes, you can plug the Pi directly into the F16.
I'm sorry. My math is not adding up to controlling 16,000 pixels with the f48. The whole "bank" and sharing 1,024 pixels per bank is throwing me off. Can you help?
Haha. 1,024 allocated across 3 serial ports. Each serial port drives a DR. Each DR has 4 pixel ports. So technically, 3 serial ports shares 4,096 pixels. Makes more sense on the F16V3, but is similar in concept on the F48.
Still clueless. Trying to determine which board to get and think of future expansions. I'm not running 16000 pixels now, but could see myself getting there. Can I truly control 16000 addressable nodes with the f48?
Based on your question, you might benefit from going through this playlist if you haven't already: ruclips.net/p/PLFyrAfJ-kKd4ZfPdXWIt8v_bav61mW_KW It covers the basics of the hobby. I wouldn't worry about getting it perfect your first year. I recommend starting small and expanding when you're ready. The F48 is a great controller and yes, it can support over 16k pixels, but you have to plan it out a little. Lurk around in the FB groups and attend the xlights zoom calls to gain a better understanding of how everything works. Plenty of time to get ready for lighting season. :)
Starting off this year (2020) I’m just coming across this f48 and it seems like it will better suit me with my house outlines and windows/yard assortments, but I was looking at doing a mega tree ran by a f16, how would I link these two together as I’m trying to avoid doing a network this year and just running straight from my spare laptop?
The F16 & F48 both have a 2-port switch so you can connect them together. There will be at least some network between the computer and controller. FYI, I run my tree off 1 differential receiver. 4 strings of 300 folded at 50 so it looks like 24 strings. Brightness at 30%.
CanispaterChristmas so I opted with the F48. I don’t have a router yet (next purchase) but is there a way I can access the falcon by direct Ethernet from my laptop? I have gotten confused with all the network stuff at this point
@@danielmilner8946 For testing, just plug the controller into your home network. It will get an IP address automatically. You can open a browser on your computer to the IP address on the OLED and see the configuration pages. You can also connect a cable direct from the computer to the controller, but you'd have to set up static IP addresses on both. Home network for playing around is easiest.
CanispaterChristmas great. Thank you
Hi, please tell me how many meters of 60 / m LED strip can be connected to one port without additional power supply to the LED strip?
5V pixels are about 50-80 and 12V pixels are about 80-100 for all white at 100% brightness assuming power draw is .06amps per LED (check the specs of the pixels). If you drop the brightness, you can get more. Just make sure the pixel chip is supported by the controller.
@@CanispaterChristmas Thank you so much
And those are pixel counts not meters of pixels.
@@CanispaterChristmas I realized, thanks again, I just thought that the pixels in the LED strip consume less power than the string pixels
@@WizardLights They might. That's why I mention checking the specs on the strips.
So I’m not reading anything that says this will work with 1903 RGB pixels 50 strips or did I miss it?
Not according to the web site, but check with David to be sure. His email & phone is at the bottom of the web site.
CanispaterChristmas ok thanks and will do. The F48 definitely looks like a great deal! Thanks for the videos!
Jeff I am building a matrix with 40 columns and 30 rows for a total of 1200 pixels. I have a F48 controller and I am not sure I can do it with, 2 strings, 600 nodes/string, and 20 strands/string. this would use 2 ports of the differential reviver. I am a little confused with the 510/512 limit. I am trying to install the pixels right now so I want to make sure the wiring layout is correct.
If you model it in xLights (assuming you're using xLights), right-click on the model and choose "wiring view." This is what it looks like from the back of the prop and will help you wire it like xLights thinks it's wired based on the parameters you typed in. 510 vs 512. An E1.31 universe is made up of 512 channels of data in one packet. 512 channels = 170 pixels plus 2 channels left over. Early controllers only allowed you to use 510 channels to make the number of pixels per universe even. It's all computers and they don't care so newer controllers allow you to use 510 or 512 with the last channel of pixel #171 spilling over into the next universe. It's more of a technical detail and must match what your controller is capable of handling, but really nothing more than that.
thanks for the quick reply
With the differential controller it feels like 5V pixels would be a little more enticing because of the ability to decentralize your power supplies. What are your thoughts on 5V vs 12V with this controller?
5 vs 12 is a Mac vs Windows thing. 99% of my stuff is 12V because I hate dealing with power issues, but 5V pixels are more efficient. Decentralized or not, you will need to inject power more with 5V, but some people kinda like that challenge. lol!
Hi. I have a newbie question. What size power wire are you using to power the differential receivers? They could, in theory, draw up to 20A, which would seem to dictate a 10AWG wire (reference: www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html). However, this seems like overkill, especially since the terminal post on the back of a LRS-350-12 won't likely fit this size wire.
Generally 14ga, but it depends on what's connected.
@@CanispaterChristmasThanks.
How would i configure both, lets say i habe the f16v3 already configure in xlights, how would i add the f48, do i just add 96 e131 on xlights?
Yes, just add more E1.31 in xLights. You don't have to max it out. I usually just add enough for what I model. I don't know if it bloats the FSEQ any if you allocate E1.31, but don't use it. Of course, you have to remember to adjust the E1.31 if you add more models. :)
@@CanispaterChristmas and to c9nnect the 2 controllers together just connect them from 1 of the 2 cat5 ports right, so it would be my PI+F16v3+F48..
Yes. That's right.
Could someone send me the learning link to sign up for these courses please. Thanks
It’s in the description of the videos, but I can send a link here when I get back to a computer.
If you mean the Udemy course I created, the link is: bit.ly/udemy-instructor-coupon or are you referring to something else?
Good video. I have done your class and seen most of your videos. I am moving to xlights and into pixels this year. Insert (I need some Help please) I took my LOR controller and placed it on the f48 dmx ports and configured. Now I have 8 strands of 15 pixels per strand. I have it in port 1-4 on my f48 and then I have daisy chained 2 falcon smart differential controllers that have been set to A, B and then DIP terminated on B. Here is my problem I don't know how to configure it properly on the falcon controller site the LOR was easy but don't know how to map it correctly for falcon ex. starting the universe and running 8 strands through the smart diff boards. I would like to start the universe on 6 other than that I'm lost. I know this is a lot but and guidance would help.
Thanks for taking the course. I hope it was helpful! So did you do (or need to do) the firmware upgrade on the F48? I think it needs to be at least 2.55 (I have another video about the smart receivers (ruclips.net/video/uyGo76NJ_bM/видео.html) and it's all covered in there). If your firmware is good, you should be able to expand it on the outputs page to get to the settings. Also, if you are using xLights, I highly recommend using that to program the controller. It is so much easier than doing it manually, but I can understand wanting to know how to do it. Also, for help, there are probably folks hanging out in the xLights Zoom room now that can help live (you can share your screen and they can talk you through it). If not, that's cool, just need the basic info first.
@@CanispaterChristmas I do have the latest firmware 2.55. I was watching this video but I do not have the output to controller option on my controller tab. I see it at the bottom but it is grayed out?
@@dktechnologysolutions3706 That probably means they aren't talking to each other. Is the controller on the same network as your computer? By default, it's set to automatically get an IP address (DHCP) unless you changed it to your show net manually.
@@CanispaterChristmas i followed your networking videos. I have a show network of 192.168.2.25 static and my lor is working with universe/id 1 channels 1-16.
I have the smart boards a&b in port 1-4 on the f48 and have it universe/id 6 channels 510(17-526)
im using xlights ver 2020.39
hi jeff where do i go to get falcon software? trying to set up my f48`s
You mean the firmware? Go here www.pixelcontroller.com/store/index.php?id_product=52&controller=product and look for the current firmware link.
@@CanispaterChristmas no how do you get the falcon on computer to set ip address ?
@@paulingalls2133 If it's on your home network, it should get one automatically, if on a show network you set up yourself, you will have to enter one manually. Either use the buttons on the board or set it up on your home network first, then change the IP address through the web page.
@@CanispaterChristmas i set the address with oled thanks
next problem is my matrix 5 cross 5 down =
320x160 but in led screen settings receiver cards parameters won`t let me change width to 320 ??
@@paulingalls2133 For this, you should log onto the xLights zoom room. There may be someone there that can help you live. If not now, certainly on Wednesday night. I have no idea what to tell you since I don't know what matrix setup you have.
According to the video, the F48 can support GECE, but I am being told "The F16v3 can control GECE"... The question is, has anyone been able to get the "older (2012)" GE Color Effects to work with the F48??
Not sure. I’ll check with David Pitts.
@@CanispaterChristmas THANKS!!! I really appreciate it. Please let me know what you find out. BTW, I LOVE your videos... you are Hilarious and smart as ever.
I signed up for your class, planning for next year. I will probably go with the F48, because I think my props will be spread out pretty far. I’d like to put the F48 in the garage. We have a corner lot and I’d prefer just running data cables to receivers. I have power at both ends of the house. My question is regarding the power supplies. Do they stay on 24/7 or do they only come on when data is sent to the controller? It’s a burning curiosity that I have right now. Lol. And thanks for the video. I was back and forth on the F48 and F16. I even talked to David and couldn’t decide.
Awesome! Thanks! Let me know if I left anything out of the class - trying to make sure it covers everything someone needs to know. I do plan on adding a couple of lessons now that everything is set up, but the basic info is there and you'll get an update when they're added. Yeah, there is more expense with the F48 and receivers, but if props are spread out, it's an easier install IMO. I completely rewired the show this year and it seemed easier to test one receiver at a time. Currently, the power supplies stay on because I have one large power cable snaked through the display and I don't want to just shut down the P10 sign's BBB. I'm going to power it separately then I can shut everything down (except for the sign) which will reduce power consumption. It's about 200W at idle and no need to waste (and pay for unused) energy. I have a Wemo switch monitoring power consumption that is connected to my home automation system that could easily be turned on and off just before and after showtime.
Is there a safe way to shut power off to the controller after each show? If I have the controller plugged into a wemo type switch, would it be safe to have it scheduled to shut power off to the controller after show end each night and scheduled to turn on prior to show start the next day?
@@JCH_Kim Yep. Nothing special required. ruclips.net/video/vFRPnUw2AhA/видео.html
CanispaterChristmas Thank you for the reply. I just now saw it. I never got a notification. I finished your class. I bought a few pixel strings and have played around with them in test mode on the F48. Now I’m trying to figure out where to start now. Props, layout, etc. I bought an outdoor Meross WiFi plugs to control my inflatables outside. It worked flawlessly and works with IFTTT. I’ll probably get more to power down/on everything.
@@FourWheeler575 Thanks! "Test mode" you mean from the F48 or have you been able to go from xLights to the F48? Either way, getting the lights to come on is a huge accomplishment! As for props - it's kinda like the exercise in the class. Outlining doors and windows and getting those working. You can also check out www.boscoyostudio.com for things to put the pixels into to make them into props. I use the strips (bit.ly/2rNthSR) a lot.
Hi! Im a bit confused and I hope you can help me out :D. So the description page says that it can run 16,384 pixels but i just don't understand how its supposed to run so many pixels. As far as I understand this board has 12 ports. Each port can be connected to a receiver and each receiver can run 4 strings of 50 pixels = 200 pixels per receiver. Even if I daisy-chained 3 receivers per output I would get 600 pixels. So 600 x 12 =7,200 pixels. The other way I understand is that the board has 4 columns of 3 ports and for each group of 3 I can only drive 1024 pixels. So 1024 x 4 = 4,096. So I know I'm missing something and I'm feeling very stupid hehehe. Any explanation would be much appreciated. Thanks for the videos!
It might be helpful to understand how the F16V3 handles that number and extrapolate it over to the F48. The F16 comes with 16 ports on the board. Each one can handle 1,024 pixels for a total of 16,384. If you add expansion boards, that 1024 is shared among the main board and expansion boards. So if you added two 16-port expansion boards for a total of 16*3=48 ports, port 1, 17 and 33 would share 1,024 pixels and there is a slider on the web page to proportion the pixels supported by each board. On the F48, it's the same hardware, but a different delivery system (the differential receivers). Each group of 3 ports on the F48 form the sharing groups. Let's say you have the top row assigned 300 pixels for example (the other two would share the rest). So the differential receivers on the top row would all be set to 300. That means each of the 4 ports on each receiver would support 300 pixels (1,200 total). By default, the controller is set to support 50 pixels per string so you don't blow the fuse, but you can change that number once you understand how to do power injection to keep current distributed by the board under 5-amps.
@@CanispaterChristmas ooooooh now i understand. Thanks a lot for taking the time in replying!!! And also thanks a lot for your videos in general cuz they have helped a lot of us. Cheers!
How would you connect the F16v3 and the F48 to my computer and xlights?
Ethernet from computer to one of them, then Ethernet from the first to the second. They both have 2 Ethernet connectors so you can daisy-chain them.
@@CanispaterChristmas if I have a sanddevices controller e682 what can I do to conect 2 e682 what I need ..sorry for my question
The e682 only has one Ethernet port so you’d need a network switch to hook everything together. They are fairly inexpensive.
@@CanispaterChristmas thank you
@@CanispaterChristmas any recommendation
You mentioned a couple times to refer to the boards user manual. Has David actually made a manual for this board yet?
Haha. I don't see one on the web site yet, and I don't remember exactly where in the video that was referring to, but if it was the DMX ports, the F16V3 manual should help there as they are the same or at least very similar. Really, most of the top half of the boards are the same so if it's something up top, the F16V3 manual may be of help. Do you just want to see the manual or did you have a specific area you need help with?
I already have the F16V2-R that I have used the past couple years. This year I am expanding and the F48 made more since to split up in sections. I have a Pi with FPP that runs my shows. So what I am looking for is information on using the new F48 as a master controller with the Pi attached to it then daisy chaining to the F16V2-R to act as a "differential board" of sorts. I doubt that is how it really works but I figured the F48 manual "if there is one" would have information on how to setup the daisy chain in this way. Do I have to assign each board it's own IP address, Do I need 2 pi's to use both boards, would it make more since to take the F16V2-R out of the picture completely and just use the F48
Posting here is the best place since I get notified and others can benefit. So the Pi will be the FPP master. It sends out E1.31 data via ethernet into the F48. The F48 has a 2-port switch so you can come back out of the F48 on the second ETH port to the F16V2-R (daisy chain). Differential boards, even though they use ethernet connectors should NOT be connected to E1.31 and differential output should NOT be connected to E1.31 - that can hurt the board (ethernet and differential data are different so don't cross the streams :) ). Similar to the F16V3, where it has 16 ports, when you add expansion boards, they share the 1,024 pixels among the ports. So the F16 has 16 pixel output ports, an expansion board has 16 pixel output ports and if you use 2 expansion boards for 48 outputs total, port 1 on the F16, port 1 on expansion #1 and port 1 on expansion #2 share 1,024 pixels (there is a slider on the string ports page you use to proportion the numbers on each board). Similarly, the F48 shares 1,024 pixels for each column of 3 differential outputs (same slider on the string ports page). Also, the spec sheet on the F16V3 says max 96 universes and max 49,152 channels (not pixels). The V2s are 64 universes and 32,640 channels. Divide channels by 3 to get pixels if running RGB pixels. 16,384 * 3 = 49,152 channels. Does that help?
Sort of, I think what is throwing me off is that the spec sheet says up to 1022 per pixel output but it says 1024 max pixels per pixel output below that. not sure what the difference is there. basically each port can run on the expansion boards can run 1024 pixels if you had all 48 ports diveded evenly. another thing that I am not clear on is 1024 pixels shared for each column of 3 differential outputs. I am drawing up a diagram of the board along with the information above to try and make more since of this.
You're giving me an idea for another video... LOL!
when will the stand alone mode be ready?
No date yet. He’s working on it now. I should know more in a week.
Do you know if they have released the firmware update to support the standalone player using the microsd card and it is stable?
New firmware is available if you have a PC, but I haven't played with it yet.
JUST GETTING INTO RGB. RECIEVED F48 TODAY AND EX BOARDS. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG I JUST WANT TO TEST MY STRING? DO I NEED DATA OR IN TEST MODE SHOULDN`T THEY LIGHT? THANKS ENJOY VIDEOS
If you got the new chainable Differential Receivers (multiple input connectors), they have a test mode built in. You don't even need the controller to test. Just power and pixels.
@@CanispaterChristmas i was reading about it and must be missing something . i went threw all the test buttons and getting 5vdc out but no light.
I show it about 23 minutes into this: ruclips.net/video/uyGo76NJ_bM/видео.html
@@CanispaterChristmas i`ll check it out. i`m starting to wonder if they send me 12vdc strings
The print is extremely small, but you can see +5 or +12 on the pixel somewhere. I use a magnifying glass. :)
I am a newbee and have been watching all your video's the last few days. This is the system for me, thanx! ;) The Differential Receiver Board you show in the video is not the same as the one they are selling on their website. Is yours a new version that has not been released yet? The 4-String Differential Receiver Board on the site has no LED's at the fuses and doesn't mention connecting to the F48.
They may not have updated the image on the website yet. It's essentially the same board. I believe the new ones are all that he is shipping now, but you can send David an email if you are worried about it. The one from last year had an error on the silkscreen showing a clock line (4-wire pixels), but the board only supports 3-wire pixels. The silkscreen has been corrected on the newer boards and the fuses now have indicator lights. That's the only difference between the two. The differential output is the same. The F48 has 12 differential outputs where the F16V3 only has 1, but is expandable.
Love your videos, thanks! Did David mention when new FW will be released to use the additional features?
Last we spoke, he’s working feverishly to get it done - I’m guessing by expo if possible, but no firm date yet. I understand the beta for the F16V3 works well, but I haven’t been able to try it (no PC). He’s also working on removing that dependency. We’ll know more in a week.
And Thanks! :)
awesome thank you!, So will I be able to actually run my show from a 48 like I do a Pi? therefore eliminating 1 Pi from my existing setup?
I believe the update will allow it to act as a slave so you’d still need a master somewhere to drive everything, but it could handle sync packets over WiFi.
Thank you
great job
Thanks!
nice board.
Im getting one asap to India
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Yes
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I got mine. Am figuring things out, I was thinking I could run a 100 pixels off the card powered, but now see it can only be 50 native power. Stupid question, I see you can name each item in port description, and adjust the brightness output there. IE I see you had 10% power at some point. Is that a good way of making my show for instance 60% when I am done? As always thank you!
At showtime, I use the controller setting to reduce to 30% so I don't have to remember to do it on every sequence, but I believe all the sequencers have a way to do it in software. There's also ways to do it in the players (FPP & xSchedule). Really personal preference and according to your needs, but I just do it on the controller(s) to keep from confusing myself. It still happens from time to time though. lol!
Well explain sir.
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This guys radio voice makes the video
Radio voice? I have no idea what you're talking about. Coming up on the half hour, it's 75 degrees outside with clear skies. Enjoy your weekend! 😂